AQ12 and AQ15 Re-Work Instructions

Disassembly

1. Remove the twelve Power Amp plate screws around the periphery of the
plate, do not let the power amp module "fall" out of the rear of the cabinet, avoid
stressing the speaker wires and the LED wires.

2. Remove the LED wire pair connector from the PCB by wiggling it and pulling
up at the same time.

4. Using needle nose pliers, squeeze the locking tab for the Fast-On's, and slide
the connector straight up off the male connection tab on the PCB.
DO NOT rock or wiggle the Fast-On if at all possible!

5. Double-check the Fast-On's to make sure they are not too loose for a re-
connection by looking at the spread of the gripping tangs relative to the whole flat
portion.

Gently squeeze the gripping tangs closer to the flat portion if necessary.
6. If the foil tape is on the inside of the metal shield, carefully peel foil tape in the
bottom corners of the amplifier enclosure.

7. Reapply tape to the outside of the shield in the same positions.

8.Replace the polarized capacitors at location shown by arrows in photo below
with non-polarized capacitors. C71 and C85

Use a 2.2uF@35V non-polarized capacitor in a 4mm package.

Panasonic P/N:  EEE1VA2R2NR

A. Remove the black mastic from the two capacitors, using a small knife blade,
gently remove the glue from the capacitor solder pads. BE CAREFUL NOT TO
DAMAGE SURROUNDING PARTS OR TRACES.

B. Add solder to both pins on each capacitor. Using two solder irons, touch both
pads of the first capacitor at the same time. When you are sure the solder is
flowing on both pads, slowly remove the capacitor from the board. Repeat for the
second capacitor. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE CAPACITOR BEFORE THE
SOLDER HAS MELTED. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE PCB!

Remove excess solder and mastic from under the capacitors.

C. Place each cap on the PCB pads and solder in place. Push down while
soldering the part to make sure it is firmly mounted to the PCB. You can heat
one pad at a time while putting some pressure on the top of the cap and kind of
“rock” it into place.
D. Add silicone rubber glue to each cap, making sure it is touching both the body
of the capacitor and the circuit board. Do not over glue, just a dab is all that is
needed. Use RTV162, ISI388 or an equivalent electronic grade glue.

9. Reconnect the speaker wires first, see wiring positions in photo below:

Push the Fast-On's straight down, do not wiggle or twist them.

10. Reconnect the LED wire pair, it only goes on one way.

11. Without placing any stress or tension on the speaker or LED wires, replace
the power amp module into the cabinet. While putting the module in the cabinet,
make sure all wires are clear of the internal fan. Make sure the torque setting on
the drive is set properly, we do not want to strip out any screws upon re-
installation of the module.

12. Power speaker ON, and use brief check with music to see if both drivers are
working, then proceed to the formal test sequence.

Formal Re-Work Test Sequence

T1. Check modified speaker using recorded bass guitar pops. Guitar pops
played back at maximum level should not trigger a woofer amp shutdown. Allow
power amp to stabilize for 5 seconds before application of the guitar signal, ramp
up to max (determine a preset level from the Volume control of the speaker
system), hold for two bass guitar pop sequences, then ramp level down for next
test. Level of the bass guitar pops should have the LIMIT LED light up red every
time the bass pop occurs. The first pops will be weak, the latter pops stronger,
and more definitely red for a significant time period.
Turn the Level control back down to full CCW.

T2. Check unit with music for quality operation, listening for clarity, freedom from
extraneous noises and buzzes, and freedom from distortion, etc. Listen for at
least 15-20 seconds, longer if there is any doubt about the unit’s operation being
typical. Check at moderate playback levels, it does not need to be cranked up
super loud.

T3. Check blue power LED on front of speaker, it should be glowing when the
speaker is powered on.