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Route Climbing Strength-Endurance 1

Route Climbing Training Plans
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/category/route-climbing-training-plans/),
Strength Endurance Training
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
 center/category/route-climbing-training-
plans/strength-endurance-training-route-
climbing-training-plans/) Route Climbing
(/training-plans/?
fwp_training_plan_subcategory=route-climbing)
Hangboard
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/tag/hangboard/), Intervals
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
 center/tag/intervals/), Power Endurance
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/tag/power-endurance/), Redpointing
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/tag/redpointing/)

This is a 6-week plan for climbers looking to maximize Strength-Endurance for short crux sequences and long boulder problems. There are no
specific days assigned to these workouts, nor rest days specified. Just plan on doing the workouts in the order written, and rest as necessary.

Week 1-

For week 1, you want to build up your training volume and figure out where you are fitness-wise. This is the week to go easy. There is a lot of
hard to come. If you’re doing this plan, the assumption is that you’ve got a good base of strength and power from the previous phase.

Workout 1.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workout 2.
 Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems / 6x 20 move traverse into OS level problem (rest until fully recovered between hard efforts, at
least 3x as long as your work effort)

Workout 3.

10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

10 minutes rest
8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
8 minutes rest
6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
6 minutes rest
4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
4 minutes rest
2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workouts 5, 6, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your
focus workouts.

Week 2-

Week 2 is similar to week 1, although loads should be increasing. We add one more bouldering day, but not at hard intensity.

Workout 1.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 8 laps on jug problems
5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workout 2.

Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems / 6x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

Workout 3.

10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

10 minutes rest
8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
8 minutes rest
6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
6 minutes rest
4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
4 minutes rest
2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

Workout 4.

10-12 boulder problems at OS+1/2. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.
No extra volume afterward, please.

Workout 5. (repeat of workout 1)

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 8 laps on jug problems
5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your
focus workouts.
Week 3.

The third and sixth weeks of this program should be the hardest both in terms of volume and intensity. Week 4 will bring a welcome AND
REQUIRED rest.

Workout 1.

Short Intervals: 8x up-down-up problems

rest 10-12 minutes
4x4s changing angle of problems and predominant hold types
rest 10-12 minutes
3x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

Workout 2.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 4 laps on jug problems
6 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

Workout 3.

Long Interval workout, continuous push.

4 repeats of a 25-30 move problem (traverse or linked problems). Rest 2 x as long as it took you to climb. This should be an awkward and rest-
free problem…and it should be a specific one rather than “just traversing” down the wall. This is a great opportunity to work on weaknesses, so
if you can set the problem yourself, keep this in mind.

Workout 4.

10-12 boulder problems at OS+2/3. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.
No extra volume afterward, please.

Workout 5.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
6 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your
focus workouts.

Week 4.

Week 4 is the recovery week. Volume and intensity both back off about 20-30%.

Workout 1.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

3 x max pull-up on large jugs or pull-up bar
25 reps knees-to-elbows split into as many sets as possible

Workout 2.

Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems

5 max-effort boulder problems with lots of rest between

Workout 3.

Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 4 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

 3 x max pull-up on large jugs or pull-up bar
25 reps knees-to-elbows fewer total sets than last time if possible

Week 5.

Workout 1.

Short Intervals: 8x up-down-up problems

rest 10-12 minutes
4x4s changing angle of problems and predominant hold types
rest 10-12 minutes
4x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

Workout 2.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 4 laps on jug problems
7 pull-ups on-the-minute for 7 minutes

Workout 3.

Long Interval workout, continuous push.

5 repeats of a 25-30 move problem (traverse or linked problems). Rest 2 x as long as it took you to climb. This should be an awkward and rest-
free problem…and it should be a specific one rather than “just traversing” down the wall. This is a great opportunity to work on weaknesses, so
if you can set the problem yourself, keep this in mind.

Workout 4.

10-12 boulder problems at OS+2/3. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an
hour.
Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 3 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

Workout 5.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
7 pull-ups on-the-minute for 9 minutes

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your
focus workouts.

Week 6.

Workout 1.

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
8 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

Workout 2.

Short Intervals: 10x up-down-up problems

Workout 3.

10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

10 minutes rest
8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
8 minutes rest
6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
6 minutes rest
4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
 4 minutes rest
2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per

Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
8 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

Workout 5.

Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 5 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

Posted in: Route Climbing Training Plans (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/category/route-climbing-training-plans/), Strength

Endurance Training (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/category/route-climbing-training-plans/strength-endurance-training-
route-climbing-training-plans/)

Tags: Hangboard (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/hangboard/), Intervals (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-

center/tag/intervals/), Power Endurance (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/power-endurance/), Redpointing
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/redpointing/)

5 Comments

davidfconlon on December 18, 2018 at 6:16 pm

I was wondering if I could get some clarification on this working:

“20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per”

Would one set look like:

Set1:

med edge – 5-8 sec hang

med edge – 5-8 sec hang

med edge – 5-8 sec hang

med edge – 5-8 sec hang

is there a rest protocol?

do i just move to the next set (a different hold) and repeat until i hit 20 mins?

Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/route-climbing-strength-endurance-1/?replytocom=135940#respond)

Steve Bechtel on December 18, 2018 at 6:30 pm

Don’t worry about the 20 minutes. It’s just a general guideline for how much training time to budget. Strength training means
resting until you are ready for the next set or exercise, so that you can give full-force efforts. Starting with 30-60 seconds
between hangs and between hold positions is a good starting point, and can be extended as needed.

Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/route-climbing-strength-endurance-1/?replytocom=135941#respond)
 davidfconlon on December 18, 2018 at 8:03 pm

Thanks for the quick reply! I think one of my favorite training quotes works here…”Rest as much as you need, as little as
possible”

Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/route-climbing-strength-endurance-1/?replytocom=135952#respond)

climbingtamuc on February 4, 2019 at 10:11 pm

On week one, workout number 2 where it says “6 up-down-up problems” what intensity level should that be at? Thanks!

Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/route-climbing-strength-endurance-1/?replytocom=162766#respond)

Steve Bechtel on February 5, 2019 at 3:50 pm

Probably MEDIUM ZONE which is OS-1 or OS-2. If you’re getting tapped out, back off another grade or add a few less-steep
problems.

Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/route-climbing-strength-endurance-1/?replytocom=162981#respond)

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