Power Bouldering Training Plan 2: My Account (/My-Account/)

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Power Bouldering Training Plan 2

Uncategorized
(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/category/uncategorized/) Bouldering
 (/training-plans/?
fwp_training_plan_subcategory=bouldering),
Power (/training-plans/?
fwp_training_plan_subcategory=power)
Bouldering Training
center/tag/bouldering-training/), Campus
center/tag/campus/), Limit Bouldering
 center/tag/limit-bouldering/), Power
center/tag/power/), Strength
center/tag/strength/), Training Plans
center/tag/training-plans/)
This training plan has been our most-downloaded plan for over five years. It’s pretty basic, but it delivers results. The version here is updated
from the original 2007 program to reflect changes in our programming. This training cycle is set up to allow a little more leeway in an athlete’s
training. It is a repeating cycle of strength, hangboard, and boulder training for intermediate or advanced boulderers. This plan involves 4
workouts that are done in sequence until each has been completed 4 times. We usually see this cycle taking 4-5 weeks, but hitting slightly
outside that range is OK. More rest equals better results, so don’t get in a hurry.
Workout 1. Strength RT (resistance training).

Exercises are done in pairs for 3 sets. 60 seconds between exercises, 2 minutes between groups.
A1: 5+5 1-arm inverted rows (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI)
A2: 5+5 1-leg squat (https://youtu.be/gWBg9ZkrcwU)
B1: 5 dumbbell bench press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

B2: 2 deadlift (https://youtu.be/ALKjwhNo9aw)
Include 5 x 8 reps heavy finger rolls (https://www.climbstrong.com/depth-heavy-finger-roll/) at end of workout.
Workout 2. Hangboard + Core + Mobility

HB:
4 positions – Open Hand (https://youtu.be/sSKCkTj7ktI), Half-Crimp (https://youtu.be/gY6AwopLSJc), Full Crimp

(https://youtu.be/gkNKSjSYw_w), “weak” position
4 sets each, 5 seconds per hang. Do 20-40 seconds of flexibility and mobility between hangs.
CORE:
4 rounds, 30 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.
Plank-Pull combo (https://youtu.be/c4Kpoh_BDaM)
Knees-To-Elbows (https://youtu.be/1TP1IGPGhwc)
Ball (or TRX) Pike (https://youtu.be/Jb1uvQa2YnE)
Core Press (https://youtu.be/kbV8nYHzITU)
Rest
Workout 3. Power-Focused Bouldering

Warm-Up 10-15 minutes. Include a movement preparation warm-up before starting to climb.
Do 45-60 minutes of hard POWER problems. These are short (3-6 moves) and feature hard moves rather than tiny holds. Your body should be
working hard, not your fingers.
Workout 4. Hangboard + Core

HB:
3 positions – Open Hand (https://youtu.be/sSKCkTj7ktI), Half-Crimp (https://youtu.be/gY6AwopLSJc), Full Crimp

(https://youtu.be/gkNKSjSYw_w)
3 sets each, 10 seconds per hang. Do 20-40 seconds of flexibility and mobility between hangs.
CORE:
5 rounds, 45 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.
Side T-Plank L
Side T-Plank R
Body Saw or Ball Roll-Out
Rest
Posted in: Uncategorized (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/category/uncategorized/)
Tags: Bouldering Training (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/bouldering-training/), Campus

(https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/campus/), Limit Bouldering (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/limit-
bouldering/), Power (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/power/), Strength (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-
center/tag/strength/), Training Plans (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/training-plans/)
22 Comments
Cchilas on April 18, 2019 at 2:57 pm
Are these workouts done in addition to or in place of other climbing?
Reply (https://www.climbstrong.com/training-plan/power-bouldering-2/?replytocom=196042#respond)
Steve Bechtel on April 19, 2019 at 5:10 pm
This is a power building plan, so would be done in place of “just climbing.” This is usually run for 4 to 5 weeks at a time and then
the athletes go back into a performance phase.
Penny Leeder on October 16, 2019 at 8:45 pm
Hi. Sorry if this seems like a dull question.
Do you complete Workout 1, rest then workout 2 rest then 3 then 4 in one evening?
Or are they split over different days?
So workout 1 Monday, workout 2 Tuesday, 3 Thursday 4 Friday, then back to 1 Sunday etc?
Thanks in advance
Steve Bechtel on October 16, 2019 at 10:24 pm
Hi Penny,
These sessions are done on separate days, and once you start loading up the training, the four sessions usually take about a
week, with a few rest days in-between. Not a bad question at all!
OJ on February 6, 2020 at 10:41 am
Regarding hangboarding in workout 2 and 4; how long should the rest-period be (=mobility 20-40 sec)?
Steve Bechtel on February 6, 2020 at 3:11 pm
Yes, 20-40 seconds is a good place to start. Some might like more rest, which is fine. The big key is if your ability to hang the
holds declines significantly in the session, your rests are not long enough.
OJ on February 6, 2020 at 6:59 pm
Thanks for your reply.
Another question; so over 4-5 weeks there will be only 4 bouldering-sessions?
After this phase the athletes goes back into the performance phase as a stronger and better boulderer?
Better? Not likely. Stronger, yes. This is a TRAINING plan aimed at improving specific fitness, upon which you can
then have a more effective PRACTICE which can then make you better. Training itself rarely makes anyone climb
better.
Jason Butler on November 16, 2020 at 3:45 am
Intro says its the most “downloaded” program. Is there a place to download this in a different format, or is the best bet to write it in a
journal to track progress? Thanks
Steve Bechtel on November 16, 2020 at 2:20 pm
We used to offer them as PDFs. I suggest you use this as a guide and build it out according to your facility, training needs, and
time available.
wllewis84 on December 9, 2020 at 6:39 pm
Are you adding weight to the hangs? Is it a min edge hang protocol? What does “weak” position mean? Thanks !
Steve Bechtel on December 10, 2020 at 12:04 am
Yes, we add weight to each hang to make 5 seconds “hard but doable.” In general, we stick with loading larger edges rather than
going for super small edges, but it’s really up to you. We train the first 3 positions, and then suggest you add your weakest grip as
a fourth, such as pinches, shallow pockets, etc.
SB
wllewis84 on December 10, 2020 at 7:26 pm
Thanks man!
phdao93 on January 31, 2021 at 10:29 pm
Hi, can I do additional “fun” climbing in the same session with the training? If yes, should I do it before or after training?
Sure, but keep your goal in mind. If the goal is to just do a lot of climbing, skip the training. On this particular plan, the intensity is
pretty high, so you might not recover well if you add a whole lot more.
jkdizza1 on May 12, 2021 at 4:18 am
Long story short, the Side T Plank really bothers by right shoulder. Is there an exercise you recommend as a substitute?
Steve Bechtel on May 12, 2021 at 12:58 pm
Sure. Just about any static hold core exercise is fine. You could try a Pallof / Core Press and this should give the same lateral
load, but is less shoulder intensive.
Jonathan Alexander on October 24, 2021 at 2:38 pm
Can you explain how this is a power focused training plan? It seems more like a finger strength focused plan with 2 sessions of 5 second
max-hangs with 1 power session and a lot of core. You mentioned most clients will use this block of training then go back into a
performance phase so I was expecting to see more time devoted to explosive climbing with a disregard for performance.
Steve Bechtel on October 26, 2021 at 6:23 pm
You’re right, it’s not a lot of explosive climbing. We were trying to aim at training the base needs behind powerful bouldering
rather than just prescribing a bunch of jumpy boulder problems. The problem with powerful problems is rarely the explosiveness
– it’s maintaining tension and having great contact strength between the powerful bits.
We do a ton of foundational strength work whether the desired outcome is power, power-endurance, or even pure endurance. All
of these facets are derivatives of strength, and we’re able to produce better long term results if we cover these bases.
I encourage you to add as much explosive training as you like to your bouldering plan, and then note the effectiveness. For
myself, I’ve still not found a way to get past the long recoveries necessary between 90%+ sessions. If you do have success with a
plan or modification of this one, I’d be psyched to hear more – always looking for better ways to program!
Thanks for the note.
SB
Jin Kyoung Kwon on December 9, 2021 at 9:13 pm
Hello!
How advanced (e.g. V redpoint grade? onsight grade?) do you recommend the climber to be to try out this program? Looking at the
program, it seems like it violates the 75% on the wall and 25% off the wall principal in the logical progression book, so I was just a little
concerned.
Thank you!
-Jin
Jin Kyoung Kwon on December 9, 2021 at 9:13 pm
Hello!
How advanced (e.g. V redpoint grade? onsight grade?) do you recommend the climber to be to try out this program? Looking at the
program, it seems like it violates the 75% on the wall and 25% off the wall principal in the logical progression book, so I was just a little
concerned.
Thank you!
-Jin
Steve Bechtel on December 14, 2021 at 1:57 pm
This is a 4 or 5 week plan which does end up putting you in the weight room and on the hangboard quite a bit…but it is just 4-5
weeks! I think almost any level of boulderer can benefit from a strength and power development cycle like this one.
SB
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(https://www.climbstrong.

Power Bouldering Training Plan 2

Workout 1. Strength RT (resistance training).

A1: 5+5 1-arm inverted rows (https://youtu.be/BPYSeoIpfQI)

A2: 5+5 1-leg squat (https://youtu.be/gWBg9ZkrcwU)

B1: 5 dumbbell bench press (https://youtu.be/j4UoQ_0wECE)

Include 5 x 8 reps heavy finger rolls (https://www.climbstrong.com/depth-heavy-finger-roll/) at end of workout.

Workout 2. Hangboard + Core + Mobility

4 positions – Open Hand (https://youtu.be/sSKCkTj7ktI), Half-Crimp (https://youtu.be/gY6AwopLSJc), Full Crimp

4 rounds, 30 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.

Plank-Pull combo (https://youtu.be/c4Kpoh_BDaM)

Ball (or TRX) Pike (https://youtu.be/Jb1uvQa2YnE)

Core Press (https://youtu.be/kbV8nYHzITU)

Workout 3. Power-Focused Bouldering

Workout 4. Hangboard + Core

3 positions – Open Hand (https://youtu.be/sSKCkTj7ktI), Half-Crimp (https://youtu.be/gY6AwopLSJc), Full Crimp

5 rounds, 45 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.

Body Saw or Ball Roll-Out

Posted in: Uncategorized (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/category/uncategorized/)

Tags: Bouldering Training (https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tag/bouldering-training/), Campus

Cchilas on April 18, 2019 at 2:57 pm

Are these workouts done in addition to or in place of other climbing?

Steve Bechtel on April 19, 2019 at 5:10 pm

Penny Leeder on October 16, 2019 at 8:45 pm

Hi. Sorry if this seems like a dull question.

Or are they split over different days?

Steve Bechtel on October 16, 2019 at 10:24 pm

OJ on February 6, 2020 at 10:41 am

Steve Bechtel on February 6, 2020 at 3:11 pm

OJ on February 6, 2020 at 6:59 pm

Thanks for your reply.

Another question; so over 4-5 weeks there will be only 4 bouldering-sessions?

Steve Bechtel on February 6, 2020 at 7:28 pm

Jason Butler on November 16, 2020 at 3:45 am

Steve Bechtel on November 16, 2020 at 2:20 pm

wllewis84 on December 9, 2020 at 6:39 pm

Steve Bechtel on December 10, 2020 at 12:04 am

wllewis84 on December 10, 2020 at 7:26 pm

phdao93 on January 31, 2021 at 10:29 pm

Steve Bechtel on February 2, 2021 at 10:44 pm

jkdizza1 on May 12, 2021 at 4:18 am

Steve Bechtel on May 12, 2021 at 12:58 pm

Jonathan Alexander on October 24, 2021 at 2:38 pm

Thanks for the note.

Jin Kyoung Kwon on December 9, 2021 at 9:13 pm

Jin Kyoung Kwon on December 9, 2021 at 9:13 pm

Steve Bechtel on December 14, 2021 at 1:57 pm

©2022 Climb Strong. All Rights Reserved.

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