Characteristics of Hydrodynamic Flow on Coral Reef

Breakwater for Beach Nourishment Profile Alignment

A M R Dwiputra1,a), O Setyandito1,b), Y Wijayanti1, Juliastuti1 and
M Anda2

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

1
Civil Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bina Nusantara University, Jakarta, Indonesia
11480
2
Environmental Engineering, Engineering and Energy, College of Science, Health, Engineering and Education,
Murdoch University, Western Australia, Australia
a)
alexander.rama30@gmail.com
b)
Corresponding author: osetyandito@binus.edu

Abstract. Indonesia is currently active in developing coastal areas, especially for growing the coastal protection
structure from erosion problems. One solution to deal with the erosion problem is by using artificial reef
breakwater. Based on previous research, the artificial breakwater with reef ball type has the greatest performance
in reducing wave energy. This research aims to analyze the numerical model about flow characteristics on
artificial reef breakwater with actual scale by using Flow3D software. The result from this research shows that
with the bigger wave, the steepness value (Hi/gT2), coefficient transmission (KT), and coefficient diffraction
(KD) value will decrease. The coefficient transmission value from this research ranges from 0.4 to 0.6, and for
coefficient diffraction value ranges from 0.2 to 0.4. It means that submerged breakwater with reef ball type can
perform well in reducing wave height and can be used to trigger off a breaking wave. Then, the analysis of the
sand alignment profile estimates that the salient will appear around 28 m from the origin coastline, and the ranges
of stable slope (nf) are 4≤n≤16.

INTRODUCTION
Erosion on the coastline is an action of land displacement that retreating the coastline due to the action of
wave. Erosion or abrasion have a destructive impact for beach function as tourism facility and the surrounding
facilities, such as road, resort, residential, and another public facilities. The damage beach is beach that
experiencing the physical and environmental changes which can harmful for economic activity [1, 2]. One
of beach protection methods that considered the environmental friendly is artificial beach nourishment with
using breakwater structure. The use of artificial reef as protection structure or low crested breakwater for
reducing wave height and beach profile alignment has been carried out in Indonesia, such as at Kuta Beach
and Sanur Beach, Bali and at Gili Trawangan Beach as well. This structure can effectively reduce wave
energy through the process of transmission, diffraction, and turbulence, so that the wave energy will be
reduced before reaching the shoreline. Based on previous research, the stable condition of the coastline
depends on the amount of energy that can be reduced by coastal protection structures or breakwater [3, 4].
This means, the more energy that can be reduced by the breakwater, the impact of coastal erosion can be
reduced.
Several studies have begun to review the hydrodynamic aspects in using artificial reef as breakwater
structure [5], then it has been applied to overcome the erosion on Gili Trawangan Beach [6]. However, the
research that has been done only discusses the wave transmission that can be reduce by breakwater. In fact,
there are still other phenomena that occur around the breakwater such as diffraction or wave deflecting events
that cause the presence of wave energy behind the protected areas. Therefore, this study wanted to analyze
the characteristic patterns around the breakwater (transmission and diffraction) and determine the effect on
beach alignment profile due to the use of artificial reef breakwater.

3rd International Conference on Biospheric Harmony Advanced Research (ICOBAR) 2021

AIP Conf. Proc. 2594, 050003-1–050003-9; https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0109459
Published by AIP Publishing. 978-0-7354-4420-1/$30.00

050003-1
 METHODOLOGY
Method
This research begins by determining the problem of using coral reef breakwater, then continued by
determining the purpose and benefits. After that, conduct a review of various literature, such as journals,
scientific works, books to identifying the type of artificial reef breakwater, specification, dimension, and
other parameter that influence the hydrodynamic character. After the required data has been collected, the
next step is producing the 3D modeling of coastal geometry and reef breakwater model which will be
analyzed using Flow3D application [7, 8]. So that the characteristic of hydrodynamic wave around the
breakwater can be obtained and also analyze the effect on profile alignment change.

Data collection
Data collection was carried out to obtain the necessary information to achieve the research objectives.

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

The types of data collected in this study are primary data and secondary data. Primary data obtained from
field measurement result, consisting of bathymetry survey, artificial reef dimension data which is commonly
used as a low-crested breakwater. Secondary data is generally available and usually data has been processed,
so it is ready to use. Secondary data collected in form of wave height in deep sea (H’0) and the dominant
wave period (T) that occurred on the coast of Indonesia. These data can be obtained from various sources
such as, previous study, books, research, journal, and other literature related to this research. The following
table is the variation of wave period and wave height data used for this research. Variations on period and
wave height in Table 1 serves to obtain the patterns and characteristics of waves around the breakwater
structure. In Indonesia, wave period that most frequently occur is 8 to 12 seconds. In the west monsoon
season, the wind moves from Asia to Australia or the dominant wind direction towards the Northeast, the
average value of wave period at Glagah beach is 11.52 seconds with an average wave height of 2.68 meters
[9].

Artificial coral reef model

Based on previous research, reef ball type has a good performance in terms of reducing wave height. Reef
ball used has a width or diameter of 1.8 m and a height of 1.5 m with a layer thickness of 20 cm and 34 holes
on the sides of the artificial reef with a diameter of 15 cm [10]. With the dimensions of these artificial coral
reefs, their stability level has been analyzed to ensure that this type of breakwater is stable or able to withstand
the attack of the wave energy employed in this research. To calculate the stability of the ARBW, an analysis
of the balance of force that acting on the ARBW was carried out and validated using the Hudson equation.
γr H3
W = γ 3
KD ൬ r -1൰ cot α
γa
(1)
Where:
W = weight average of breakwater block (tons)
H = wave height in front of breakwater (m)
KD = stability coefficient of breakwater block (depends on shape, surface roughness, particle,
sharpness, and condition of breaking wave)
γr = density of breakwater material (ton/m3)
γa  = density of seawater (ton/m3)
α = slope of structure

The material used to make this artificial reef is concrete with the type of cement (binder) in category V
so that it has more resistance to sulfate levels under the sea. The cement is mixed with aggregate and water
until it has a quality that equivalent to normal concrete, namely K-250 or f'c = 20.75 MPa at the age of
concrete 28 days, so that it has a density of ± 2400 kg/m3 [11]. This reef ball breakwater will be arranged into
one formation to reduce the wave energy that will spread from the deep sea to the mainland coast. The shape
of the artificial reef breakwater formation can be seen in Figure 1. After determining the specifications and
shape of artificial reef breakwater, the next step is to do an analysis using the Flow3D application [12]. The
analysis begins with the input geometry model, creating a mesh, determining boundary conditions, and
solving simulation.

050003-2
 TABLE 1. Variation of period and wave height data of reef ball breakwater
Wave Period (second) Wave Height H’0 (m) Simulation Code
1 RB8A
2 RB8B
8
3 RB8C
4 RB8D
1 RB10A
2 RB10B
10
3 RB10C
4 RB10D
1 RB12A
2 RB12B
12
3 RB12C

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

4 RB12D

FIGURE 1. Reef ball breakwater model

The following is a view at the input geometry model and also the boundary conditions for this research.
The wave input used in Flow3D uses a wave height (Hi) at a depth of d = 5 meters. The variation used to
observe the characteristic pattern around the coral reef type breakwater is wave height in the deep sea (H'0).
Figure 2 shows breakwater formation and application on Glagah Beach, Yogyakarta, Java.

22,5

7,5

FIGURE 2. Breakwater formation (a) and application on Glagah Beach, Yogyakarta, Java

Therefore, the wave height entered into the boundary conditions in the Flow3D application needs to be
adjusted, namely by calculating the wave height at a certain depth using the liner wave theory [13]. Figure 3
shows the input geometry and boundary condition.

050003-3
 Y = 100 m

d=5m

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

FIGURE 3. Input geometry and boundary condition

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Influence of transmission coefficient toward wave steepness
The effectiveness of breakwater performance as a protection structure from incoming wave height,
generally assessed by the value of transmission coefficient (KT), which is a ratio between the wave height
after through the breakwater (Ht) against the incoming wave height (Hi). The lower value of transmission
coefficient (KT), it means that the breakwater will perform better in reducing wave energy. Graph in Figure
4 shows that the calculation of the transmission coefficient (KT) using two methods, namely numerical
calculations using Flow3D simulation and using equations from previous study produces the same pattern
[5], which means the greater wave steepness value, the lower of transmission coefficient. This indicates that
the incoming wave (Hi) can be effectively reduced when passing through this artificial reef breakwater [14].
From Figure 4, it can be seen that the value of the transmission coefficient (KT) from the Flow3D analysis
results is lower when compared to the equation from previous study result, although both analyses use the
same type of coral reef. That caused by the different dimensions of coral reefs, especially in the pore or hole
diameter on the side of the coral reef. With this difference, the level of porosity and turbulence produced by
the breakwater structure is also different.

FIGURE 4. Transmission coefficient (KT) from Flow3D of this study vs. [5]

Influence of diffraction coefficient toward the distance, wavelength and angle

from point of review
Diffraction is a phenomenon of deflecting the wave direction around the end of the breakwater structure
towards the protected area due to the blockage of incoming wave with a coast protection structure or
breakwater, hence it causing the presence of wave behind the breakwater structure or in protected area [15].
The wave energy that occurs due to diffraction will not be greater than the wave energy outside the protected
area, however the wave size due to diffraction needs to be analyzed because it will affect the coastal profile

050003-4
behind the breakwater structure. Figure 5 shows the relationship between the diffraction coefficient (KD), the
distance from end of breakwater to point of review I, the wavelength (L) and the wave alignment angle (β).

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

FIGURE 5. Correlation graph between diffraction coefficient (KD), distance from end of breakwater to point of review
I, wavelength (L) with wave alignment angle (β)

It can be seen from the results of the graph that the relationship between KD(R/L)0.5 is directly proportional
to the wave alignment angle (β) or the greater of wave alignment angle (β) value, diffraction coefficient (KD),
distance of viewpoint I and wavelength (L) will get bigger.

Influence of artificial reef breakwater toward transmission coefficient (KT)

and diffraction coefficient (KD)
In this section will discuss the influence of ARBW on transmission and diffraction coefficients by
presenting graphs of non-dimensional parameter which is also used as a validation or comparison of the
hydrodynamic characteristics of waves around a submerged reef breakwater. Figure 6 shows the relationship
between the transmission coefficient value and the wave steepness from several other results models. Several
previous research results were used for comparison as well as validation of the results of this study. It presents
some of the results from previous studies [5, 16, 17, 18] that using physical modeling methods in the
laboratory with different coral reef shapes. This aims to prove that the performance level of the reef ball type
is better than other types of coral reefs.

FIGURE 6. Validation graph of transmission coefficient correlation with wave steepness

050003-5
 Figure 6 shows quite different transmission coefficient values, especially when the Hi/gT2 value is less
than 0.003, the difference in the value of the transmission coefficient (KT) reaches 0.3. This is influenced by
several factors, such as the research method used, the relative depth value (h/d), the dimensions and the
formation of the artificial reefs that used. Previous research [5] used physical modeling methods in the
laboratory so it has difference on dimensional scales and also the formation of artificial reefs because it is
limited by the available width of flume in each laboratory, while this study uses numerical methods with 3D
simulations so, the actual scale can be applied on this research and also with the dimensions and formation
of the artificial reefs can be adjusted to the original conditions. Although the results of the above comparisons
have significant differences, the pattern or correlation between the parameters of the analysis results shows
the same trend line, namely the correlation between the transmission coefficient and wave steepness is
inversely proportional. Figure 6 shows that the relation between the transmission coefficient (KT) and the
wave steepness (Hi/gT2) is inversely proportional or the greater the wave steepness value, the smaller the
transmission coefficient value. This is in accordance with the submerge breakwater theory which states that

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

this breakwater is more efficient to reducing massive waves because the turbulence from base of breakwater
resulting flow can effectively trigger the breaking wave so that the incoming wave height can be reduced
properly [19]. Then the following is a comparison graph used for validate the results of characteristic analysis
on diffraction wave.

FIGURE 7. Comparison graph of diffraction coefficient (KD) to wave alignment angle (β)

Figure 7 shows the correlation between the diffraction coefficient with the wave alignment angle and also
serves as a comparison or validation for this study. There are four other graphs used as comparisons, which
are the three graph (1896-1967) are developments of the Sommerfeld equation or the exact mathematical
equation used to analyze the diffraction waves around the submerged breakwater structure [19]. Then another
graph is the result of the wave diffraction analysis on the reef breakwater with cube block type. From the
comparison in Figure 7, it can be seen that the relationship between the diffraction coefficient (KD) and the
wave alignment angle (β) is directly proportional, where the greater the wave alignment angle, the greater
the diffraction coefficient. For the shaded part in the comparison graph above is a vulnerable or boundary
area where the relationship between the diffraction coefficient (KD) and the wave alignment angle (β) for the
submerged reef breakwater. The KD value for the coral reef breakwater is greater when compared to the type
of breakwater used in previous studies or the type of block without pores. This caused by the influence of the
diameter holes on side of coral reefs, the large porosity on coral reefs breakwater causes the smaller of
reduced wave height, so that the KD value is greater when compared to the type of breakwater without pores.

Influence of submerged artificial reef breakwater for beach nourishment

profile alignment
Analysis the influence of ARBW as beach nourishment profile alignment begins with an analysis of the
beach slope when conditions are stable (nf). To calculate the value of the stable slope on this artificial sand
beach, can be used a dimensionless parameter graph between H0/ωT with a stable beach slope profile (1:nf)
from the results of previous research [20]. From that graph it can be calculated the value of the beach slope

050003-6
when the conditions are stable, the following is the result of the nf value. From the calculation results above,
it can be obtained the value of stable slope (nf) due to variations in wave height and period based on the graph
results of previous research [21]. In this research, nf value ranged from 4 to 7. The greatest value of the beach
slope at stable condition (nf) occurred when the wave height was 1 m and the period is 10 seconds. From the
results above, it can be concluded that the greater incoming wave height and the smaller period, the stable
slope of the coast (nf) will get steeper. Coastline protection by breakwater structure can occur due to reduced
wave energy, hence the wave energy that reaches the area behind breakwater or protected area is reduced and
the sediment transport process in protected area is also reduced. Sediment transport that occurs along the
coast or from the surrounding area will be deposited behind the breakwater structure. The activity of
deposition sediment can lead the formation can cause the presence of salient at origin coastline or area behind
breakwater [22]. Table 2 shows the calculation result of stable coast slope (nf).

TABLE 2. CALCULATION RESULT OF STABLE COAST SLOPE (NF)

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

H0 (m) T (Second) Hi (m) d50 (mm) ω (cm/s) Hi/ωT H0/ωT 1:nf nf
8 1.66 0.2 1.05 0.1976 0.1190 0.154 6.49
1 10 1.72 0.2 1.05 0.1634 0.0952 0.135 7.42
12 2.59 0.2 1.05 0.2052 0.0794 0.158 6.34
8 2.97 0.2 1.05 0.3540 0.2381 0.213 4.69
2 10 2.64 0.2 1.05 0.2514 0.1905 0.178 5.61
12 2.48 0.2 1.05 0.1972 0.1587 0.154 6.50
8 3.37 0.2 1.05 0.4013 0.3571 0.226 4.43
3 10 3.55 0.2 1.05 0.3384 0.2857 0.209 4.80
12 3.66 0.2 1.05 0.2907 0.2381 0.193 5.18
8 4.83 0.2 1.05 0.5752 0.4762 0.262 3.81
4 10 4.28 0.2 1.05 0.4078 0.3810 0.227 4.40
12 5.59 0.2 1.05 0.4433 0.3175 0.236 4.24

8
7
6
5
nf 4
3
2
1
0
0.00 1.00 2.00 3.00 4.00 5.00 6.00
Hi (m)
FIGURE 8. Correlation between incoming wave (Hi) Height with Stable Slope (nf)

050003-7
 Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf
FIGURE 9. Influence of submerged breakwater for beach profile alignment

Analysis of submerge reef breakwater influence for beach profile alignment will be continued by
referring to the results of previous study that conducted by Mead and Black which stated that the tombolo
will be appeared behind the reef breakwater if the value of ratio breakwater length by distance from
breakwater to coastline (Lr/Y) above 0.6 [23]. For salient, it will be formed if the comparison value is above
2. The distance between the end of salient with artificial reef breakwater (Xoff) can be calculated using graph
from analysis result by Mean and Black (1999) in [24] (Figure 8 and 9).
This research is using breakwater length (Lr) of 22.5m and the distance between the breakwater with the
coastline (Y) of 100m. Therefore, salient that will be formed with distance:
 off Lr -1,36
=0,42 ቀ ቁ (2)
Lr 
22,5 -1,36
Xoff = 0,42 · ቀ 100 ቁ (3)

Xoff = 71,85 m (4)

Where:
Xoff = Distance between end of salient to Artificial Reef Breakwater (m)
Lr = Length of Artificial Reef Breakwater (m)
X = Distance between Artificial Reef Breakwater to coastline (m)

When the line of the breaking wave is parallel to the original coastline, diffraction will occur in the
protected area or behind the breakwater, where the crest line will bend and form a circular arc. The
propagation of the diffracted waves carries sediment transport towards the protected area, causing a sediment
deposition process behind the breakwater area until the formation of a salient. This process will continue
until the shoreline that occurs is parallel to the crest line of the diffracted waves. The formation of tombolo
depends on the submerged breakwater length (Lr) and the distance between the breakwater to the origin
coastline (X), if Lr > X usually tombolo will not be formed. The longer distance of breakwater to the origin
coastline, the higher chances of tombolo forming [24].

CONCLUSION
The present study focuses on numerical simulation of flow characteristic around the artificial reef
breakwater models. The effect of artificial reef breakwater toward the flow characteristic is examined by
using 3D numerical model (Flow-3D). It was found that the presence of artificial reef breakwater will affect
the flow characteristic around the breakwater structure. The result shows that the increase of wave steepness,
then the transmission coefficient (KT) will decrease. And also same with coefficient diffraction (KD) will
perform better when the wave steepness get higher. Then the effect of flow characteristic around breakwater
toward beach profile alignment can be estimated that the formation of salient behind the breakwater structure
is around ±28 m from the coastline and the slope profile of stable coast (nf) range from 4-7.

050003-8
 REFERENCES
1. N Yuwono, Pedoman Teknis Perencanaan Pantai Buatan (Artificial Beach Nourishment) (Yogyakarta:
Universitas Gadjah Mada, 2004)
2. O Setyandito, A C Purnama, N Yuwono, Juliastuti and Y Wijayanti, Comtech 11 (2020).
3. K W Pilarczyk, 6th Conference on Coastal and Port Engineering in Developing Countries, Colombo, Sri
Lanka (2003).
4. O Setyandito, N Yuwono, B Triatmodjo, T E Bakti and L M Kesuma, World Applied Sciences Journal 32
(2014).
5. H D Armono, M A R Fauzi, M Mustain and A R Amalia, The Third International Conference on Civil
Engineering Research (ICCER) pp 430‒435 (2017)
6. E Pradjoko and I Bachtiar, Thesis (Universitas Mataram, 2014).

Downloaded from http://pubs.aip.org/aip/acp/article-pdf/doi/10.1063/5.0109459/16900852/050003_1_5.0109459.pdf

7. O Setyandito, A R D Michael, Juliastuti, J P Andrew and Y Wijayanti, IOP Conf. Series: Earth and
Environmental Science 426 012035 (2020)
8. F Dentale, F Reale, A D Leo and E P Carratelli, Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
10 (2018).
9. D W Tyas and S Dibyosaputro, Jurnal Bumi Indonesia 1
10. H D Armono and H Wirayuhanto, MATEC Web of Conferences 177 01009 (2018).
11. L J Murdock, K M Brook and S Hindarko, Bahan dan Praktek Beton Edisi Keempat (Penerbit Erlangga,
1991).
12. H Babaali, A Shamsai and H Vosoughifar, Arabian Journal for Science and Engineering 40 (2015).
13. C Paotonan and N Yuwono, Dinamik Teknik Sipil 11 (2011).
14. H D Armono and K R Hall, Canadian Coastal Conference pp 1‒13 (2003).
15. M. R. Boshek, Thesis (Delft, The Netherlands: Deflt University of Technology, 2009)
16. Abrori, Thesis (Institut Teknologi Surabaya, 2009)
17. Sudoto, Thesis (ITS Surabaya, 2008)
18. A Winarto, Thesis (ITS Surabaya, 2017)
19. L E Harris, Thesis (Melbourne: Florida Institute of Technology, 2007)
20. Design of hard coastal structures against erosion provided by Rijn L C V. (2013). Available from:
www.leovanrijn-sediment.com
21. O Setyandito, Nizam, N Yuwono, R Triatmadja and P Pandin, International Journal of Civil &
Environmental Engineering (IJCEE-IJENS) 12 (2012).
22. O Setyandito and Triyanto, Jurnal Teknik Sipil Universitas Atma Jaya Yogyakarta 7 (2009).
23. M J Briggs, E F Thompson and C L Vincent, Journal Of Waterway, Port, Coastal, And Ocean Engineering
121 (1995).
24. CERC, Shore Protection Manual: Waterways Experiment Station (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1984)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This work is supported by Research and Technology Transfer Office, Bina Nusantara University as a part of
Bina Nusantara University’s International Research Grant, with contract number: No.017/VR.RTT/Ill/2021.

050003-9