GARMENT MANUFACTURE

SUPERVISOR'S TRAINING

Introduction:

Supervisor are the next step above the workers or operators level employees in the organization pyramid . A
supervisor is the key man who interprets managements to the workers and at the same time responsible for
production. He stand between managements and the rank and file level employees.

A supervisors, generally has to take care of the following:

(1) Selecting and training of workers
(2) Work production
(3) Control of quality, quantity and cost
(4) Discipline, motivation and moral of worker
(5) Work method improvement
(6) Accident prevention
(7) Maintaining machinery and supplies
(8) Record keeping.
Therefore, the training of the supervisor should be planned by keeping the above -mentioned points in view.

The supervisor training should:

(1) Primarily aim to develop the qualities of leadership.
(2) Equip him with an adequate knowledge of management methods to deal with other people.
(3) Broaden him and at the same time develop qualities of analysis that will enable him to visualize his job.
(4) Develop in him the skill to improve upon the existing methods of work.

Job of supervisor in apparel industries:

The steps of supervisors to see their working days and their properties are right or not and balancing main
are in which supervisor influence productivity, planning and scheduling of work form. An upto date
inventory of the skills of operators.

Factory routine: A good factory should have a routine for achievement eliminating crisis and ensure
regular contact between manger and supervisor.

Supervisor check list: A summery of duties in this form a good way of establishing the work of operators.
A good supervisor aim for the greatest out put at the agreed quality for the least cost.

Break down of work: This is for establishing efficiency and defect per standard time and absenteeism.

Priorities: Proper priority should be on the importance on the job according to the requirement.

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 Balancing: More than of the time supervisor is used for balancing of the works this depends upon the time
study and improving the individual out put to get more productivity.

Delivery : A production schedule is vital, if delivers are to be made on time on shop floor is first and last
bundles in an order should be noted by the supervisor and reported daily as the work in progress.

Trough put time =total time that work is in progress in each section from cutting to dispatch+ delay time
between each section Priority bundles should be required colour coding. Balancing efficient ---- high out
put , smooth flow ---------- Production progress records.

Quality : The achievement of consistent quality and required level should be the supervisors aim. Records
of rework repair and rejects enable the supervisor to take corrective actions. Good quality is to upto
supervisor and the operatives and quality control peoples are there to help the team

Quality control report Supervisor discovers causes and correct

Fast feed back Few defects

Note causes Supervisor notes difficulties and concentrates on these

APPAREL PRODUCTION SYSTEMS

The production process involves myriad steps and depends on the talent and skill of many individuals. It is
a team effort. Apparel making is not conductive precision mass production. Frequent style changes and
varying degrees of fabric work ability force continual adjustment in the manufacturing process standardized
equipment is difficult to design and implement and production is there fore dependent on skilled
workers.An apparel production system is an integration of material handling, production processes,
personnel and equipment that direct work flow and generates finished product.

Three types of production systems that are commonly used to mass produce apparel or are:
• Make through system
• modular production system
• assembly line system

Each system requires a different types of :

• management philosophy
• material handling arrangement
• floor layout
• employee training
• Companies may combine the systems or use only one depending on their need.

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 1. MAKE THROUGH SYSTEM

it is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through one garment at a time.

The advantages of the make through system are:

• Quick throughput time
• Easy to supervisor.

The disadvantage of the make through systems is:

• low productivity
• high labour cost
• only very experienced operator can be used
• it is a system only suitable in couture and sample making

2 . MODULAR SYSTEM

“An organized group of individuals working together in a co operative manner to accomplish a common
purpose".
"A group of people who works together to accomplish individual goals effectively and efficiently while
simultaneously accomplishing goals of the team or organisation ". "A team is a small number of people
with complimentary skills who are committed to common purpose, set of performance goals, and approach
for which they hold them self’s mutually accountable".

Working in modular system

• The line layout is U -shaped with garments progressing around the line.
• Each operator is cross trained on a different portion of line (ie: continuous operation ) depending on skills
and operation complexity. Ideally all the operators are cross trained on all the operations.
• Thus operators work to predominantly predetermined adjacent tasks.
• Each operator is assigned at least one operation.
• Operatives work on standing workstations.
• The first and last operations are uniquely assigned to the first and last operator respectively
• Work In Progress (WIP) is kept to a minimum.

3 . ASSEMBLY LINE SYSTEM

• Bundles of garment components are moved sequentially from operation to operation

• Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component.
• Some companies work with varied bundle sizes others with standard bundle sizes
• Bundles are assembled in cutting room where cut parts are matched.
• Bundle tickets consist of a master list of operations and corresponding coupons for each operation.
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• Each bundle receives a ticket that identifies style#, size , shade and list of operations (is some cases)
• Bundles are assembled is cutting room where cut parts are matched
• Bundle receives a ticket that identifies style #, size ,shade and list of operations.

There are two variations of the assembly line system being followed in the industries namely

• Progressive Bundle systems and unit production system.

A. PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM

• Machines and operations are organized into sections according to basic functions, which produce sub
components.
• Within each sections works is balanced according to time required for each sub-functions.

The disadvantages of progressive bundle system are:

• Machine investment costs are high.
• The system is not very adaptable for short-run production and frequent style changes, as these require
rearrangement of the workstation.
• It involves high handling costs for bundle handling and transportation.
• It requires a high level of work in progress and therefore a high capital commitment.
• It requires a high level of management skills to arrange the workflow and decide on the number of operators
for each operation.
• Individual performance can be monitored and incentives offered.

The advantages of the progressive bundle systems are:

• High productivity
• A high level of labour utilization can be achieved
• Training time and costs can be reduced
• Semi-skilled labour can be used.

B .UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEMS (UPS)

Similar to a relay race, each production operator a task and passes that garment on to the next person.
Normally there is only one garment between operations.

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As a mechanical system this has been in use for many years, but a major advance was made in 1983 when
computers were first used to plan, control and direct the flow of work through the system.

The essential feature of this system is:

(1) The unit of production is single garment and not bundles.
(2) The garment components are automatically transported from work station to work station according to
pre-determined sequence.
(3) The work station are so constructed that the components are presented as close as possible to the
operator's left and in order to reduce the amount of movement required to grasp and position and component
to be sewn.

All the components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a work station specially designed for this
purpose. The carrier itself is divided into sections, with each section having a quick - release retaining clamp
which prevents the components from falling out during movement through the system. When a batch of
garments has been loaded into carriers they are fed past a mechanical or electronic device which records the
number of the carrier and addresses it to its first destination.

COMPARISION OF VARIOUS PRODUCTION SYSTEM

Comparative analysis of various production system is presented in table 1, in terms of various common
inputs required. Points 1 to 5 indicate relative significance of the input such that 1 indicates "Very difficult
or complex" or "too much" and 5 indicates "very easy or simple" or "very less".

Comparison of Various apparel production systems

INPUTS MTS ALS PBS UPS

Investment cost 5 3 3 1
Operator skill 1 3 3 2
Supervision 5 3 2 1
Style change 4 2 3 4
Flexibility 4 2 4 5
Repair control 2 3 4 5
Quality control 2 5 4 5
Balancing 5 2 3 1
Through put time 5 4 2 4
Labour cost 1 3 4 3
Output /sq.meter 1 3 4 3
MTS - Make through system.
ALS - Assembly line system.
PBS - Progressive bundle system.
UPS - Unit production system.

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 CUTTING SECTION

Clothing is generally assembled from several parts. It is necessary to introduce shape to overcome the
limitation of fabrics because a piece of fabric can wrapped round body but for more comfort they must join
some where. So the first stage of garment manufacture is to cut the materials into necessary shapes. Then
they join together to create three dimensional shapes.
The size that will cut and the no of plies in lay are determined by the requirement of of order. The cutting
room deals with following jobs:
1) The planning. If appropriate then drawing and re production of marker.
2) The spreading of fabric to form a lay.
3) The cutting of fabrics.

THE PLANNING DRAWING AND PRODUCTION OF MARKER

The marker making can break down into two jobs:

1) Marker planning for proper placement of pattern pieces to meet technical requirements and for material
economy.
2) Marker utilization which may include drawing the marker directly on to fabric or paper marker by pen or
automatic plotter.

EFFICIENCY OF MARKER PLANNING

The marker planer measure his success by efficiency created.

Area of patterns in the marker plan
Efficiency = ----------------------------------------------------------* 100
Total area of marker

Or Total weight of cut components

Efficiency = ------------------------------------------------- *100
Total weight of fabric

Since of fabric cost is so important the company exploits the planer to discover opportunities for
improvements by shifting patterns in different ways. In computer it is more easy to get more efficiency to
get more efficiency than manual marker.

TYPES OF MARKERS

As per the direction of patterns:

1) One way marker.
2) Both way markers.

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 As per alignment of pattern:
1) Close marker.
2) Open marker.

METHODES OF MARKER PLANNING AND MARKER USE

1) MANUAL MARKER PLANNING WITH FULL SIZE PATTERNS: In this method planning is done
directly on fabric. Various chalks or wax materials are used to draw patterns.

2)COMPUTERISED MARKER PLANNING: This method is a integrated system which includes

digitizing or preparation of full size pattern into computer and by appropriate grade rules all the sizes are
generated. The planner uses a visual display unit, key board, data pen, mouce, digitizer and plotter etc. The
planner specific the marker plan, width of fabric, the pattern pieces to be used, the size to be included and all
constraints to be applied including matching of checks and stripes etc. After planning the planner instruct
the computer to plot marker automatically onto plotter.

THE CUTTING AND MACHINES

The use of the term cutting can present a difficulty. It is used in the sense of "cutting room" an area in which
normally includes the activities of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being
used to refer to actual cutting out of garment parts from the lay.

THE OBJECTS OF CUTTING

1. Precision of cut: Garment can not fit to the body unless they have not been cut accurately to the shape.
The precision cutting depends upon the good cutting machines as well as on the skills and motivation of the
cutter.

2.Clean edges: The raw edge should not show fraying or snagging this is due to the imperfectly sharp knife.

3. Uncorked, infused edges : The build up of heat during cutting leads to scorching of fabric and in case of
thermoplastic fusing of raw edges will be taken place. Then cuter can not make the different ply’s separate.
To avoid it well sharper blade and anti- fusion -paper during spreading is done.

4. Consistent cutting : The cutting system should be limited in height of ply’s it will cut because progressive
deterioration in cutting quality, through there may be mechanical or human reasons, such as topping or
leaning for which the height of lay being limited.

METHOD OF CUTTING

Hand scissors: Hand shears normally used for cutting less no. ply’s . This method is flexible enough to
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accommodate any fabric construction and fabric construction and pattern shape. The disadvantage of this
method is that it lies times and it consumes high labour cost.

Straight knife:

Straight knife cutting machine is used to cut components of differing size. This is the most frequently used
equipment for cutting garments in bulk. It is moved along the cut contours, while the fabric spread remains
in a fixed position. The machines are manoeuvrable and capable of curvilinear cutting. Straight-knife
cutting machine is the world’s most popular and most versatile. Available in all standard electrical
configurations, with the largest variety of sizes and blade speeds in the industry. It is the most useful cutting
instrument in garment cutting.
In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used.
This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for
both woven and knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight knife are used according to the
different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency. The maximum height of a cut spread is
300 mm. The weight of the machines varies between 5 and 20 kg. Heavier machines are less manoeuvrable.
Small-capacity production units may use only straight-knife machines.

FOLLOWING ARE THE IMPORTANT CHARACTERISICS OF STRAIGHT KNIFE

1. Normally available blade heights are 10-33cm

2. Stroke vary form 2.5-4.5cm
3. Cutting height should be 1" less then the height of the blade.
4. Velocity two types A) Vertical cutting stroke velocity= machine RPM* stroke length.B) Horizontal
stroke: It is the speed in which the machine move by the operator:
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5. M/C RPM - 1700-3500
6. H.P of motor =1\3, 1\4,1\2,
7. Voltage required- 110-220 volt
8. Blade guard: It acts as safety device and act as ply stabilizer.
9. Blade cooling system A) Air blow system B) Lubricating system to avoids melting or fusing of the
material to be cut
10. Blade sharpening system is there.

DISADVANTAGE: 1) Vibration of blade as the lower portion of blade remains open.

2) The width of the blade is more so the curve does not cut properly.
3) Angular cutting as the platform moves through the layers during cutting.

SERVO CUTTING MACHINES: This is a modification over straight knife. In this case a traveling
suspension has been available for use with straight knife. The system support from above and base plate and
rotters are replaced by small and flat vase, As the machine remains suspended it reduces the need of heavy
gauge stand behind the knife and also reduces the need of more width of the blade. The drive trolley moves
automatically along the rails on the side of the table. This system enable a much higher degree of cutting
accuracy the unsupported straight knife and lower degree of operator skill is required.

The elements of round knife are a base plate above which mounted an electric motor a handle for cutter to
direct the blade a circular blade rotating so that leading edge cuts down wads into the fabric. The blade
diameters vary form 6 to 20cm. This m/c is unsuitable for cutting curved lines. These machines are used for
straight lines on the lower lays having relatively few ply’s. Motor H.P-1\6 - 1\3, RPM- 1000-3500.

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BAND KNIFE CUTTING M/C:

Band knife cutting machine is important equipment which is often used in a garments
manufacturing factory. Though a band knife cutting machine is not popular as a straight knife cutting
machine some key features present the total activities for that.

A band knife comprises a series or three or more pulleys powered by an electric motor, with a continuously
rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened. The principal of operation is
different from a straight or round knife in that the band knife pass through a slot in the cutting table in a
fixed position and the section of lay to be cut is moved past it. The blade is narrower than on straight knife
and there is no standard behind it. Both factors which assist the cutting of curves. A band knife work place
may be so arranged that the operator either pushes or pulls the section of lay towards the knife.

Band knife is generally used to get better cutting accuracy. Space must be kept around the pattern during
planning the marker so that they can sectioned out using straight knife and then cut exactly using band knife.
When small parts like collars, cuffs and packets are cut template of metal or fibre board in the shape of
pattern piece may be clamped to the section of lay on top of the marker which is then drawn past the band
knife blade, cutting exactly along the hard edge. After prolong cutting the lower part of lade in straight knife
will get damaged and improper cutting will taken place but in case of band knife it is not required.

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DISADVANTAGE: 1. As precise cutting is done so first block cutting will be done. 2. The height of the
layer should be less. 3. As parts are to be moved so bigger size of pattern can not be cut.

NOTCHERS; Many garments parts required that notches are cut into the edges of them to enable
alignment during sewing with other garment parts. Specified notching equipment provides greater
efficiency because it will give consistent depth, Hot notches incorporate a heating element in order that the
blade may slightly scorch the fibres.

RILL AND THREAD MARKS

Where reference marks are needed away from the edge the garment part such as for the position of pockets,
darts and similar features a hole is often drilled through all the plies of the fabric in the lay. The drill
mounting includes a motor and a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass through. Some time hollow
drill will pass through the layers and place along thread which may cut with scissors between each ply.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED CUTTING KNIVES: This process provide most accurate cutting of
high speed. A tropical cutting system has a table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon brisths which
support all the plies of the fabric in the lay. The drill mounting includes a motor and a base plate with a hole
to allow the drill to pass through. Some time hollow drill will pass through the layers and place a along
thread which may cut with scissors between each ply.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED CUTTING KNIVES:

This proces provide most accurate cutting of high speed. A typical cutting system has a table with a cutting
surface consisting of nylon brisths which support the fabric lays but feasible enough to permit penetration
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and movement of knife blade which is supported only at top. The brisths also allow the passage of air
through the table to create a vacuum reducing the height of the lay. The carriage supporting the cutting head
has two servo motors the third motor positions the cutting head on beam across the with of this carriage.
These two movements are co-ordinate to give a knife position at any point of the table. The cutting head
contains a knife automatic sharper and another motor to rotate the knife to position it at a tangent to the line
of cut on curves. A sheet of air tight poly ethylene covers the top of the lay which assists the creation of
vacuum and allowed significant compression of the lay. The spreader spread the lay on a conventional
manner and the table will equipped with flotation so that the lay can be moved onto the cutting table without
distortion the speed of the machine is 5-12met/minute.

DIE CUTTING : In this system cutting is taken place by moving the blades through the lay of fabric. The
die is a knife in the shape of pattern including notches. The die passes generally a cutting arm supported by
a single pillar at the back of the machine. It swing to allow the playing of dies on top of the fabric. The down
ward cutting stroke of the press should be so controlled that the edge of the dye just penetrates the cutting
pad or surface in order that the fibers exerts continuous press me on die until it cut the fabric and made
contact with soft metal or nylon pad. The accuracy of cutting in this case is max so this type of m/c is used
for cutting most important parts such as collar, cuff, yoke etc. The main disadvantage of this machine is the
greater of fabrics. As the style is changing day by day a large # die are required for die cutting of several
parts.

LESSER CUTTING : A laser produces a beam of light which can be forced into a small spot , producing a
high energy density. A laser beam does not become blunt and need remaining but it suffer from limited
depth of focus. The system includes a stationary gas laser a cutting head carrying a system of mirror shish
reflects the laser beam to the cutting line. A computer will operate the entire system and a means of
removing the cut parts from the conveyer carrying the single ply of fabric.

PLASMA CUTTING : This is used for high quality cutting on stainless steels aluminum can also be used
for textiles by means of high velocity jet of ionized gas.

WATER JET CUTTING : A very high velocity small dia created by applying high pressure water to a
nozzle. As the jet penetrates successfully the momentum decreases and cutting ability is reduced . If is most
suitable for hardener sheet materials

SEAMS

THE MAIN AIM OF THE SEAMS IS DETERMINED BY STANDARDS,STRENGTH

DURABILITY,COMFORT IN WEAR, AND CONVENIENCE IN ASSEMBLY IN RELATION TO THE
MACHINERY AVAIULABLE AND COST

accordng british sttandard the seams are divide into 8 classes. They are 1. Superimposed seam
2. Lapped seam
3. Bound seam
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 4. Flat seam
5. decorative seam
6. Edge neating
7. Class 7
8. Class 8

SUPERIMPOSED SEAM

This is the most commonly used sean in the construction of garments. it is simplest seam type within the
class is formed by superimposing or joing the edsge of one piece to another.

Facing right sides together and stich on the wrong nside of material and the i, ii seams are press and open but
the iii will not be opened. for the ii the rawedsge are to be overlocked seperately but in (iii) has to be
overlocked the rawedges by combnining tthe two piles of the material .Example side seam

FRENCH SEAM

French seams is done in two sttages. here the machine folders and multi-needle machine's are used for
completing the work neatly and fastly. Eample:- cuff

PIPED SEAMS

In piped seam an additional component is added between the two piles. Example sleeve finishing.

CLASS 2 LAPPED SEAM

The simplest seam in the class is lapping two piles in a possite direction. it is mostly not used because the
raw edges will be appeared on the top of the garments.

LAP FELLED SEAM

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this seam is used in the outer and inter seam of the trousers. it is most commonly used in industry.

WELT SEAM

The welt is used fort joing the panels in the skirts.

Example: pockets

CLASS 3 BOUND SEAMS

This seams covers the edge' of one ply with the same fabric or with the different (or) decorative piece.
examples neck finishing of ladies, tops, salwar, jackets.

It is used for the neck edge covering of tee shirts

In this seam another cut strip is insert.It may a contrasting colour of garment

In this seam the elastic has been inserted. Examples Elastic waist band.

It is used for waist band with the inter lining fused in it. Example:- Jeans trousers , skirts.

CLASS 4 FLAR SEAM

This seam is called flat seam because the fabric edges are not overlap.
This is mostly used in knitted garments because the advantage is it provides a join that is free from bulk in
garments. While stitching the machine trims the rawedges of the garments. The zig-zag stitches are used
decorative purpose.
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CLASS 5 DECORATIVE SEAMS

In this seam the separate piece of ribbon are lace is joined for decorative purpose. Example centre front
finishing.

It is four row of stitches with difference colour of thread for decorative purpose like zig-zag. Example: top
front pieces.

Pin trucks are used on any garment for pleasent look. Example Men,s shirt, ladies top etc.

Box pleats which is used in the skirts. Example:- uniforms

CLASS 6 EDGE NEATENING

Seam types in this class include those where fabric edgges are neatened by means of stitches blind stitch or
overlocked stitches. Example overlocked stitches.

it is the hem on any dress or trousers in a woven fabric which has been neatened and sewn up invisibly stitch
(bling stitch)
Hemmening of the shirt and the skirt.
This seam is used for button hole placket front of a shirt.

CLASS7

This seam relate to the addition of separate item at the edges of the garment parts. Example would be a band
of lace is attached on the top of the garment.
Inserted elastic on the leg of a swimsuit

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It is also used for the inderting elastic in the waist band of skirt.

in this seam their is self fabric and interlining is used for the button hole band on a shirt.

CLASS8

In this seam where only one piece of material need be involved in constructing the belt loops. So all this 8
class of seams are used for the covering of raw edges and giving final neat finishing for the garment. The
seams will also give good appearance for the garments.

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STITCHES

CLASS 100 CHAIN STITCHES:-

The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101,102,103, 104 and
105. The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the underside
of the fabric. There is no lower thread. One of the simplest of all stitch types is 101, which is formed from a
single thread. It can only be used for baisting operations in tailored menswear and womens wear. it can
only be used where the marksof needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing. a baisting operation in
postions such as edges,flaps, collars and so on, is a temporary stitch, allowing accurate placement of
permanent stitches.

the blind stitch version,103,utilises a cuved needle in order to,successively penetrate partially into a the
fabric,and then into the hem edge, while showing minimally or not at all on the night side of the garment.

CLASS 200 STITCHES ORIGINATING AS HAND STITCHES:-

Stitch class 200 consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205, which
simulates a hand running stitch but is formed by a special machine. Typical types are basting stitches and
back stitches .

CLASS 300 LOCK STITCHES:-

the lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand. Lock stitch machine
requires 2 threads to form a stitch., a needle thread that feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds from
a bobbin . a rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and
interlocks the two threads. iff a lock stitch thread breaks , the two threads used to form the stitch lock and
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the whole line of stitches won't unravel. lock stitch machines are verrsatile and can be used form variety ofr
operations. it is also the only stitch formation that can be backstitched.

Thus, a lock stitch machine is a agood choic for a small manufacturer that prodces fashion goods. a
complete garment can be sewn on a lock stitch machine. also, if versatility is needed, a lock stitch is a good
choice but if speed and efficiency are the priorities,it may not be the right selection.lock stitch machines are
slower than other classes of industrial machines. operating speeds range from 3000 to 5000 rpm while other
machines can operate at 9000rpm or more. on short seams, operator would not ve able to reach maximum
speed; therefore, it is recommended to be used on small parts, while faster stitch types should be used for
larger parts and longer seams. some of the most common types os stitches in this class are:

1. STITCH TYPE-301:-
The 301 is referred to as a plain stitch or a straight stitch. It is the stitch type
performedby the standard home sewing machine. equal anount of needle and bobbin threads are used and
upper and lower threads interlocks in the centre of the fabric. the 301 uses the least amount of threads a d
produces the flattest stitch. it is the tightest andmost secured stitch among all stitch types. becuase this stitch
formation is the same on both sides of he seams, it is reversible and used extensively for top stitching,
especially along collar and cuff edges, and fronts of jackets. it is a poor choice in areas that need to stretch
as it has least amount of elongation potential. the 301 is inappropriate to attach elastic or sew knit or bias
seams that are expected to stretch.

2. STITCH TYPE- 304:-

Type 304 is tthe traditional one stitch zigzag that is used to sew apliques, attach lace on
lingeries, and produce faggotting. Faggotting is a decoration stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric but
allowing space (width of stitch) between the pieces. It provides elongation, is smooth, and will not ravel out.
other types of zig zag lock stitches are class 308 and 315 which form a longer and a wider zig zag by using
several stitches before changing direction.

Lock stitch machines generally have more down time becausethey operate with a l;imited supply
from bobbins that have to replced as they run out. repair time is also more as opening a lock stitch is more
time consuming than a chain stitch.

CLASS 400 MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCHES:-

The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type . This multi thread chain stitch
requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the fabric and interloop with the
looper thread on the underside, all of which feed continuously from the cones. The 400 class requiores an
upper and a lower thread and use a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop on the underside
of the fabric. machines producing 400 class do not back tack although stitches can be condensed to secure
the ends of the threads.

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The most common stitch types in this class are:

1. THE 401 OR TWO THREAD CHAIN STITCH:-

It is also called double locked chain stitch. its

appearance is ther same as the 101with a flat straight thread formation similar to a lockj stitch on the face of
the fabric and a loop on the underside. the 401 can be unravelled., but only if the looper thread is pulled in
the direction the stitches were formed.

The 401 machines are capable of operating at vry high speeds. these chain stitch machines
often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching. the loop formation of the chain sttitch
elongates when extended; thus it is used for seams that require eleasticity, such as setting sleeves and
attaching elastic. This stitch type is also well suited to automated sewing equipment such as automatic
seamers.

2. STITCH TYPE 402 OR CORDING STITCH:-

It is used primarily for stitching permanent creases. it

uses two needle threads that produce two parallel rows of stitching on the face of the fabric. a looper thread
travels betweeen the two needle threads on the back of the fabric creating a ridge orr crease between the
needle threads on the face. this type of stiching can be found on sportswear where a crease needs to be
maintained or on the back of the gloves.

3.STITCH TYPE 404 :-

It is similar in appearnance to a 304 stitch in the sense that it is also a zigzag

stitch except the differrence that it is formed as a chain stitch and contains loops on one side.

4. STITCH TYPE 406 & 407:-

They are known as bottom cover stitches. they are used to cover seam or
unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat. they appear as 2or 3 rows of parallel "lock
stitching" on the face of the fabric while a looper thread connects the rows on the back . stitch type 406 is
used to produce flat, comfortable seams on necklines of T-shits, bottom felling of T-shirts. the 406 stitch
uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread like a 402 except that it does not ridge up. stitch type 407 is very
much similar to 406 except that it uses three needle threads and has even more stretch. The primnary use of
407 is to attach elastic to undergarments, which require maximum stretch.

CLASS 500 OVER EDGE STITCHES:-

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups
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of threads, and have as ageneral characteristic that loops from at least one groups of threads pass around
theedge of the material. the loops form a narrow banc of stitching along the edge of the fabric withthreads
intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying. all have high elasticity, they do not unravel
easily, and a trimining knife one the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. these stitches are often
called overedge, overcast,overlock,serge, or merrow.

Overedge machines must have three stich forming devices a needle to carry the through the fabirc, a looper
or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to the edges of material on the bottom, and a looper or
spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top. the various stiotch types uses
various combinations of these three devices.

The odd numbered stich types 501,503,505, and 521 are known as "break open" stitches because they act
similar to the spiral back of a notebook. the fabric is held tight together but not secure along the inner edge
of the stitching, which allows the stitch to break open. these stitches are best used for edge finishes and hem.
they are characterised by a loose thread on the bottom that is pulled to the edge of the fabric wherre it
interloops the looper thread this creates a puri stitch or interlooping of thread that wraps and protects the
edge of the fabric. the even numbered stitch types in this class-502,504,512,and514- have a much tighter
needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at the actual seam line. these stitches do not "grin
through" or become exposed between the layers of fabric. these stitches have a much smoother appearance
and are more durable.

1. SERGING AND EDGE STITCHES:-

Types 503,504, or505 are overedge stitch types that are used for
serging. serging is the process of finishing a single ply of fabric to prevent revelling. this is often one of the
first processes in sewing a garment if another edge finish will not be given later in production. serging gives
a more finished apperance on the inside of a garment. stitch types 502 and503 are formed by two threads a
needle and looper thread. the 502 type is a tight stitch that is used primarily for seaming the outer edgge of
bags,while 503 is used for blind hemming and serging. type 503 is used mainly for hems in T-shirts and
other kit ggarments and serging seams of dress slacks because the two thread construction is less likely to
press through the farment. stitch type 504 and505 are three thread overedge stitches that are formed with
one needle thread and two looper threads. they require more threaqd in the formation bnut theyt also have
more stretch. type 504 is highly extensible buit secure stitch that makes an excellent seam for knit garments,
such as seams of cut and sewn sweaters, it is the most common of 500 class.

2. MOCK SAFETY STITCHES:-

Stitches types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitches.
they are four thread overedge stitches tthatt are formed with two needle threads and two looper threads.
type 514 is stronger and more elastic that 512, but both may be used forn seaming knits and wovens.
however, 514 makes a wider seam and may be desirable for some knit garments.

3. THE SAFETY STITCHES:-

19
 515, 516, and 519 are a combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain
stitch. this type is called a safety stitch because the chain stitch tthat closes the seam is backed by a row of
another tight overedge stitches. bothe rows of stitches are formed at the same time. this type of seaming is
widely used by manufacturers of shirts, jacket, blouses, and jeans.

CLASS 600 COVERING CHAIN STITCHES:-

The coverr stitch or 600class, often called a flat lock of a

flat seam stitch,is an advanced version of the 400 class and is used primarily on knits and lingeries.machines
producing the 600class are extremely fast and efficient operrating at 9000rpms. the stitch is formed by two
or more needle loops passing through the material, interlooping on the underside and interlocking on the
upper side. a spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the fabric
between the needles. these stitches, refered to as top and bottom coverr stitches, are commonly used to
cover both sides of the seam with thread. threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam. This
stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams. Stitches in this
class are mot complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads.

THREADS

Sewing threads are made from natural and man-made fibres or a blend of both and they are chosen
according to their suitability for sewing relation to:

UNIFORM THICKNESS:
This permits the easy, rapid movement of thread, when it moving through needle eye and the fabric.

SMOOTHNESS: Essential if the thread is to waist band the friction of high-speed sewing

ELASTICITY: Thread must make simple stitches which will not create any puckering.

STRENGTH: To hold seam secure during the reasonable life of a garment

MANUFACTURING OF SEWING THREADS:

20
 most sewing threads start as simple yarns produced by twisting together relatively short fibres or fine
continuous filaments.
the twist inserted into these basic yarns provides the consolidating force and this is balanced by applying a
reverse twist when two or more yarns are combined to form a thread.
SEWING MACHINE FEEDING MECHANISM:

To achieve the objectives of good appearance and performance in seams, correct and even stitch length is
essential, along with fabric joins which are either smooth and unobtrusive or evenly eased or gathered,
according to the requirements of fit and style. In the construction of seams and the formation of stitches that
hold them together, theses requirements are achieved by means of a mechanism that feeds the fabric past the
needle. There are various types of feeding mechanisms that can be used for different requirements of
seaming

1. DROP FEED : The simplest and the commonest sewing machine feed system is known as the drop feed.
The three sewing machine parts which constitutes the feed mechanism are the presser foot, the throat plate
or needle plate, and the feed dog.

The throat plate is the most passive of the three parts and its functions is to provide a smooth ,flat
surface over which the fabric passes as successive stitches are formed. It has one or two slots in it which
match the sections of the feed dog and it has a hole through which match the sections of the feed dog and it
has a hole through which the needle passes as it goes up and down.

The purpose of the feed dog is to move the fabric along by a predetermined amount between successive
stitches. The amount of fabric movement, and thus the stitch length, is controlled by means of a stitch
length regulator. The feed dog consists of a toothed surface which rises through the openings in the throat
plate, engages the under surface of the fabric, moves that fabric along towards the back of machine, and
drops away again below the throat plate before commencing the whole cycle again. A the feed dog below
the throat plate, this plate supports the fabric so that it loses contact with the feed dog and is not carried back
with it. In the normal SNLS machine, the feed dog rows are situated both to the right and left of the needle
hole to ensure that the fabric is fed in a straight line. In an over edge machine, the feed dog is mainly to the
left of the needle drop point, because it trims and sews the fabric to the right of the needle and because there
is a chaining off finger on the throat plate over while the stitch is formed. Here the fabric tends to be guided
21
 to the left the throat plate over which the stitch is formed. Here the fabric tends to the guided to the left. The
teeth on the surface of the feed dog are slanted towards the direction of the feeding Coarser or finer feed
dogs can be used depending on the type of fabric being stitches. Rubber coated feed dogs are available to
prevent marking on some sheer fabrics which may occur during stitching.

The presser foot is required to hold the fabric down firmly against the throat plate, thus preventing the fabric
rising and falling the needle. At the same time, it holds the fabric against the teeth of the feed dog as it rises
up to transport the fabric. Minimum pressure should be used consistent with correct feeding of the
particular fabric being used.

2. DIFFERENTIAL BOTTOM FEED: Differential bottom feed is the name given to a feed dog which
consists of two sections, one behind the other. The movement of whole feed dog in the drop feed dog but
the stroke or movement of each part can be adjusted separately or differentially. In the situation where
differential feed pucker is a problem, correct adjustment of this feed system to create light stretch on the
bottom ply will overcome the tendency of the feed dog to take in that ply while the presser foot retards the
top ply. The adjustments in this case consists of setting the strokes of rear section the feed dog so that it is
longer than the stroke of the front section. It is also possible to deliberately gather the lower ply into the top
ply by setting the front section of the feed dog to a longer stroke than the rear section.

3.

Differential feed is available on chain stitch, over edge and safely stitch machine as well as on lock stitch
machine.

3. VARIABLE TOP FEED: A variable top feed provides a positive control of top ply of the fabric in a
way which allows for adjustments so that the fabric plies either be fed through exactly together to, if
required, the top ply will be gathered onto the bottom ply. The general adjustments of this system is that the
presser foot is in two sections, one holding the fabric in position while the needle forms the stitch and the
other having teeth on the lower side and moving or walking in such a way that the top ply is taken along
positively while the needle is out of the materials when a variable top feed is combined with a drop feed,
there is the opportunity to speed up the movement of the top ply to achieve shift free sewing or by further
adjustments to the top feed mechanism, to introduce a deliberate amount of ease or gather to the top ply.

4. NEEDLE FEED: Needle feed is the name given to the feed system in which the needle itself moves
forwards and backward. Used on its own it tends to produce elongated needle holes in the fabric and to
22
avoid this it is normally combined with a drop feed and given the name compound feed. The needle enters
the fabric, moves back with it as it is moved back with it as it is moved along by the feed to form one stitch
and then rises up and forward again to begin the next stitch. Thus the needle is in the fabric while feeding is
taking place and the plies of fabric are held together. In this the exact synchronization of he movement of
the needle and the drop feed is required. This kind of feeding mechanism is used particularly in bulky
sewing situations such as when quilting through fabric and wadding.

5. UNISON FEED: Unison feed is further combinations of feeding mechanisms, which provides needle
feed in addition to positive top and bottom feeding.

6. PULLER FEED: A puller feed is a way of providing positive control of all the plies of fabric as they
leave another feeding mechanism such as drop feed. Two rollers exert a pulling motion on the fabric
immediately behind the presser foot or a short distance behind it. Both rollers may be driven or the top
roller only may be driven while the lower one idles. Puller feed is particularly useful in multi-needle
stitching of parts such as waistbands and it may be set slightly faster than the main machine drop feed to
overcome any tendency of the seam to twist.

Different process in cutting department

Marker plan

Spreading (acc to style/ marker plan)

laying / Relaying [laying according to line match]

ticket bundling & numbering

Panel check

Recutting [in case of defect, damage, shade variation etc.]

Fusing for the required parts i.e. collar, cuff, front placket

Sorting.

23
 TYPES OF MARKERS

As per the direction of patterns:

1) One way marker.
2) Both way markers
.
It is done in 2 methods

1. manual marker
2. CAD (computer aided designing)

EFFICIENCY OF MARKER PLANNING

Efficiency calculated for woven garments

Efficiency = Area of patterns by pattern in the marker plan *100

Total area of marker
Efficiency calculated for knitted garments is same as woven

Piece wt = Cx(L+SL)x2xGSM where C-chest,L-length,SL-sleeve length

100 GSM- gram/sq meter

Quality parameter for marker plan

• Marker should of proper length & Breath as per the fabrics available.
• Marker should be prepared as per the planning & design & type of the fabric.
• Proper grain line should be maintained.
• Marker can be prepaid in open or locked condition or block condition
• Proper notch mark should be within on the marker & they should be within seam allowance.
• All the components should be marked or numbered as per the requirement so that none of the
component gets missed.
• All the component should be properly marked as per the size so, that they can clearly identify.
• Pattern portion should no overlap.
• attern should be placed either way or one way as per the design of the fabrics.

CHOPPING & ITS TYPES

When we come to knife cutting, chopping is the process which actually cuts raw material into
product components.
There are two major types of chopping
1.BLOCK CHOPPING
2.PATTERN CHOPPING

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 PATTERN CHOPPING:
Pattern chopping is the process of cutting the fabric into exact shape required for the final
assembling operations.

BLOCK CHOPPING:

Block chopping is a cutting process which requires the shape of the component initially cut from
the spread, to be cut again after it leaves the spreading table.

The cutting quality of cut fabric components has the following

1. FRAYED EDGES
2. FUSION OR SCORCHED EDGES
3. RAGGY,SERRATED OR FUZZY EDGES
4. PATTERN PRECISION
5. NOTCHES
6. DRILLING
7. RIPS.

TYPES OF CUTTING MACHINE

1. CONTINIOUS CUTTING MC 2. INTERMIDENT CUTTING M/C
STRAIGHT KNIFE NOTHES
BAND KNIFE DRILLS
ROUND KNIFE SHEARS
CAD/CAM AUTOMATIC CUTTER DIE CUTTERS

SPREADING AND QUALITY POINTS OF SPREADING:

The objective of spreading is to place the number of plies as per planning it is a time consuming process &
taken maximum time of cutting department.
Spreading can be done in different ways as per the design & quality of fabrics. To get efficiency in
their process spreading machines are broadly used where the number of plies length of lay, speed of
spreading are controlled automatically. In maximum industries it is done by hand or manually.

FOLLOWING POINTS ARE TO BE FOLLOWED FOR QUALITY SPREADING:

25
• Shade sorting of cloth pieces.
• Lays commonly require more then one layer of & which cannot be possible with single role of fabric.
• During batch wise dyeing the total fabric generally got shade variation as per the batches so, to avoid shade
variation in the garments the roles are segregated as per the percentage of shade.
• Spreading should be done in different modes depending upon the design of the fabric & direction nap as
well as on the type of garment.
• The fabric are generally get vary in width so, it is very important to segregate them as it.
• Every plies should comprise with the markers length & width.
• The plies should be spread under proper tension slack or plies having irregular fullness should be avoided.
• Fabric should be spread under proper stretch layer get shrikonised after cutting & degraded in size.
• Bowing & skewness problem should be carefully tackled.
• Fabric faults should be identified & should be avoided by slicing or overlapping the fabric sufficient
quantity as per the slice marks.
• Tightly selvedges should avoided by cutting selvedge.
• Synthetic material can get fused due to high temperature of cutting edges to avoid it anti fuse able papers
should be introduced in between the layer, which can extract oil substances to decrease the temperature.
• Spreading should be done on steep paper which helps to avoid the of lower.
• In case of check & stripe the lay length & number of plies in lay gets reduced as per the checks or stripes.

CUTTING AND CUTTING QUALITY:

Cutting quality is very important for getting quality product in final stage because any problem in
that area can never be avoide after operations so, cut components should be as per the pattern following
points are very important.
• Shade lots a. Shell-Total no. of lots
b. Lining- Total no. of lots
c. Trim - Total no. of lots

• Suggested no. of lays shell - 75 lays Trim -- lining -- fusing-100

• Embroidery - yes/no Thread colours
• If parts send for embroidery check for defects.
• Printing: - If the part is send for printing check defects and lead time.
• Piping: - Cutting straight / bias.
• Draw-cord - self yes/no: finished width / over hang.
• Poly fill - yes/no check - Migration.
• Conform does garment required washing yes/no
• Is allowance given on pattern yes/no.
• Precession cut is very important without which proper fit is quite impossible.
• Edges should be clean.
• Fringe edges should be avoided by using proper surface in blade.

26
• Using special type of papers should reduce the build up of heat or some air blowing systems, which can
avoided fusing in thermoplastics.
• Consistent cutting should be done otherwise progressive deterioration in cutting quality will take place.
• Notches should be in proper sizes & shape.

• For proper placement of garment components like pockets positioning of darts & for other components
drilling machine should be used.
• During cutting in case of open marker proper spaces should be left all round the components.
• During cutting by band knife proper clipping or clamping should be done.
• For basic components like collars & cuffs where maximum accuracy is important templates must be used &
they should be in multiple numbers.
• For smaller components dye-cutting machine can be used for 100% accuracy.

QUALITY POINTS OF BUNDLING & TICKETING

• Bundling & ticketing should be done in restricted areas & components of each size should be separated
before putting them in bundle.
• Each & every components should be numbered with particular number as per the garments.
• Different colour stickers can be used for different sizes for easy identification or code number can be used
for different sizes.
• Skilled & educated persons should be used in those areas.
• Stickers should stick properly & should have sufficient glue so that it can remain up to ultimate use or it
should not put any stain on the garments.
• No marks can be given on the fabrics directly otherwise they are to be removed at the ultimate stage of
garments, which decrease the quality of garment & create lot of problem.
• Stickers should always stick at the back portion of garment component.
• Bundle should not be kept in open space because dust particular get deposited & destroy the component.
Closed racks can be used in that purpose.
• All workers should not be allowed in the area of bundling.
• Bundle ticket should be properly fixed having the number of operations, which helps in the purpose of
inspection repair as well as in the payment of operators.
• Pieces of some colors & size can be kept in single bundle.
• To avoid the problem of labeling or main label, wash care label kept in a small pouch & fixed with the
bundle.
• Bundle should be kept in a small bag before movement in sewing section.
• All bundles of same color & size should move at a time.
• Bundle control seat should be properly maintained by section supervisor.

27
 Sewing Machine Needle
Needle is the principle element of sewing machine. The needle carries the upper thread down to meet the
lower thread, so it needs to be heavy enough to pierce the fabric but not so big that it leaves an unsightly
hole. A worn, dull or damaged needle can cause stitch problems, such as skipped stitches or puckering
seams. All needles designed for general sewing machines work with any brand and model of machine and
are labeled as system 130/705 H or 15×1 H. There are many different types of machine needles, each
designed for different threads, fabrics, and tasks. Sewing machine needles have different sized eyes,
different points, and different scarves. As a sewer or sewing operator showld know concept about sewing
machine needle. In this article I will discuss different components of sewing machine needle and functions
of each parts.

Way of needle movement is related to:

• Seam strength.
• Seam appearance.
• Seam durability.

Functions of needle in the sewing m/c:

1. To make a hole in the fabric without damaging the threads of the fabric.
2. To make a needle thread loop.
3. To pass the needle thread loop through the loop or loops of the looper thread.

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle and Their Functions

Fig: Anatomy of sewing

machine needle
28
 1. Butt: For setting the needle on to the needle bar or clamp.

2. Shank: Upper part of the needle which is tied in the needle bar and which supports the needle.

3. Shoulder: Middle part of the shank and blade is shoulder. It helps to make the hole of the fabric and
strengthen the needle blade.

4. Blade: Longest part of the needle from the shoulder to needle eye. In this portion, friction between fabric
and needle is maximum. Blade is gradually tapered to tip.

5. Long groove: The long and thin groove between shoulders to needle eye in the blade is called long
groove. When the needle penetrates the fabric with needle thread, needle thread takes position in the long
groove.

6. Eye: The hole present in the front of the needle is called eye. Eye through which sewing thread is passed.

7. Scarf: The groove of the needle above the eye is called scarf. Its purpose is to enable the closer setting of
looper to the needle.

8. Point: The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is called point. Point should be different for
different type of fabric.

9. Tip: The last (extreme end) part of the needle is called tip. It helps to create hole in the fabric during
sewing.

Needle point:
The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is called needle point.

Two types of needle point-

1. Cutting point.
2. Cloth point.

Cloth point:
Cloth point / Round point needles used for sewing cloths. The point of cloth point needle is round.
29
 Two types of cloth points:

1. Set point.
2. Ball point.

Set point: Set point needles used for sewing woven fabrics.

3 types of set points namely:

1. Slim set point: For sewing densely woven fabric or top stitching like collar, cuff and pockets.
2. Set point: For sewing medium densely woven fabrics.
3. Heavy set point: For sewing buttons ( attaching buttons)

Fig: Needle set point

Ball point: Ball point needles used for sewing knitted garments.

Ball point needles are of 3 types:

1. Light ball point.

2. Medium ball point.
3. Heavy ball point.

30
 Fig: Needle ball point

Needle size expression

Metric system (Nm):

Easy process, most usable, based on blade diameter.

Needle size = Blade dia in mm X 100

= 0.8 mm X 100
=80 Nm.

Singer system:
5, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17.

Needle system number more, needle coarser.

Causes of damaging needle point:

• Needle heats with m/c parts specially throat plate.

• Faulty fabric handling during sewing by m/c operator.
• Needle deflection during sewing.
• Improper needle size selection.
• Improper needle point selection.

31
Productivity.
Productivity of a production system is analogous to the efficiency of a machine.
Productivity may be defined as the ratio between output of wealth and input of resources of production.
Output means the quantity produced and inputs are the various resources employed, e.g., land, building,
machinery, materials and labor.
Productivity= out put/Input
Productivity refers to the efficiency of the production system.
It may also be defined as human effort to produce more and more with less and less inputs of resources as a
result of which the benefits of production may be distributed more equally among maximum number of
people.
Production and productivity
Production is defined as the process or procedure to transform a set of input into output having the desired
utility and quality. Production is a valueaddition process. Production system is an organized process of
conversion of raw materials into useful finished products.
The concept of production and productivity are totally different. Production refers to absolute output where
as productivity is a relative term where in the output is always expressed in term of inputs. Increase in
production may or may not be an indicator of increase in productivity. If the production is increased for the
same input, then there is an increase in productivity.
Productivity is said to be increased, when
1. the production increases without increase in inputs.
2. the production remains same with decrease in inputs.
3. the output increases more as compared to input.
Examples
A company produces 160 kg of single jersey fabrics by consuming 200 kg of yarn for a particular period.
For the next period, the output is doubled (320 kg) by consuming 420 kg of yarn and for the third period, the
output is increased to 400 kg by consuming 430 kg of yarn. Comment based on productivity.

Comment:

32
 From the above illustration, it is clear that, for second period, though production has doubled,
productivity has decreased from 80% to 76%. For the third period, production is increased by 200% and
correspondingly productivity increased from 80% to 93%.
Benefits from increased productivity
Higher productivity results in higher volume of production and hence increased sales, lower cost
and higher profit. It is beneficial to all concerns as stated below:
(a) Benefits to the management:
1. More profit.
2. Higher productivity ensures stability of the organization.
3. Higher productivity and higher volume of sales provide opportunity for expansion of the concern
and wide spread market.
4. It provides overall prosperity and reputation of the organization.
(b) Benefits to workers:
1. Higher wages.
2. More wages permits better standard of living of workers.
3. Better working conditions.
4. Job security and satisfaction.
(c) Benefits to the consumers:
1. More productivity ensures better quality of product.
2. It also enables reduction in prices.
3. More satisfaction to consumers.
(d) Benefits to nation:
1. It provides greater national wealth.
2. It increases per capita income.
3. It helps expansion of international market with the help of standardizes and good quality
products.
4. It improves standard of living.
5. It helps better utilization of resources of the nation.

Work Study
33
 Definition: Work study may be defined as the analysis of a job for the purpose of finding the preferred
method of doing it and also determining the standard time to perform it by the preferred (or given) method.
Work study, therefore, comprises of two areas of study: method study (motion study) and time study (work
measurement).

Role of Work Study in Improving Productivity

In order to understand the role of work study, we need to understand the role of method study and that of
time study.
Method study (also sometimes called Work Method Design) is mostly used to improve the method of doing
work. It is equally applicable to new jobs. When applied to existing jobs and existing jobs, method study
aims to find better methods of doing the jobs that are economical and safe, require less human effort, and
need shorter make-ready / put-away time. The better method involves the optimum use of best materials and
appropriate manpower so that work is performed in well organized manner leading to increased resource
utilization, better quality and lower costs.
It can therefore be stated that through method study we have a systematic way of developing human
resource effectiveness, providing high machine and equipment utilization, and making economical use of
materials.
Time study, on the other hand, provides the standard time, that is the time needed by worker to complete a
job by the standard method. Standard times for different jobs are necessary for proper estimation of
• manpower, machinery and equipment requirements
• daily, weekly or monthly requirement of materials
• production cost per unit as an input to better make or buy decision
• labor budgets

34
• worker's efficiency and make incentive wage payments.
By the application of method study and time study in any organization, we can thus achieve greater output at
less cost and of better quality, and hence achieve higher productivity.
Method Study
Method study, aims to achieve the better method of doing work, and for this reason method study is
sometimes called Work Method Design.
Definition: Method study can be defined as the procedure for systematic recording, analysis and critical
examination of existing or proposed method of doing work for the purpose of development and application
of easier and more effective method.

Procedure Involved in Methods Study

The basic approach to method study consists of the following eight steps. The detailed procedure for
conducting the method study is shown in Fig.

35
Method Study Symbols for Recording the Facts

The graphical method of recording was originated by Gilbert, in order to make the presentation of the facts
clearly without any ambiguity and enable them to grasp them quickly and clearly. It is useful to use symbols
instead of written descriptions.

36
 Process Chart
Symbols

Operation

An operation takes place when there is a change in the physical or chemical characteristics of an object. An
assembly or disassembly is also an operation. This symbol is used for the activities of grasp, position, use,
release, etc. of a tool, component or material.

Transport

This refers to the movement of an object or operator or equipment from one place to another. When the
movement takes place during an operation, it is not called transport.

Example: Moving the material by a trolley Operator going to the stores to get some tools.

37
Inspection

Inspection is checking an object for its quality, quantity or identifications. Example: Checking the diameter
of a rod. Counting the number of products produced etc. The symbol for inspection is not much used
because the hand movements when inspecting an article (holding it and examining it visually or gauging it)
may be classified as “operations” on the two-handed chart. It may, however, sometimes be useful to employ
the “inspection” symbol to draw attention to the examination of a piece.

Delay

Delay occurs when an object or operator is waiting for the next activity. Example: An operator waiting to
get a tool in the stores. Workpieces stocked near the machine before the next operation

38
 Permanent Storage

Storage takes place when an object is stored and protected against unauthorized removal.

Example: Raw material in the storeroom.

1. Motion Study
Motion study is a technique of analyzing the body motions employed in doing a task in order to eliminate or
reduce ineffective movements and facilitates effective movements. By using motion study and the
principles of motion economy the task is redesigned to be more effective and less time consuming.
The Gilbreths pioneered the study of manual motions and developed basic laws of motion economy that are
still relevant today. They were also responsible for the development of detailed motion picture studies,
termed as Micro Motion Studies, which are extremely useful for analyzing highly repetitive manual
operations. With the improvement in technology, of course, video camera has replaced the traditional
motion picture film camera.
The Procedure is as follows

39
Step I: Break up the operation of the job:
The first step is to prepare a detailed list of all operations in the present method of manufacturing the job.
All details such as material handling, machine work and hand work are included in the list. This may be
done with the help of a process chart or diagrams of motion and film analysis or models etc.

Step II: Question each detail of the job:

Questions should be asked on himself by the motion study engineer about the way in which these operations
are to be performed, and about the tools and equipment’s needed. The procedure of this questioning is
known as “Critical Examination”.

Questions are asked on the following five points:

i) Purpose:
What is the purpose of this operation?

Does the operation fulfill the requirements?

Whether the operation can be eliminated?

ii) Place:
Where is the best place to do this operation?

iii) Sequence:
What is the best time to do this operation?

Whether it can be done at the same time as before or at any other better time?

When will it be more suitable and economical?

iv) Person:
Who will do this operation?

Who can do it in a better way?

v) Means:
How this operation can be performed i.e. which machines and tools are to be used?

Can we make the work more-easier to do and safer for both worker and equipment?

Step III: Develop a new method:

After considering the above questions a new better method is developed.

40
 Before finalising the new method, the following facts should also be thought over during the motion
study:
i) Elimination:
Every operation of the job should be thought and whether it can be eliminated without any harm.

ii) Combine:
In this context it is to be observed that whether two or more can be combined to save operation time.

iii) Rearrangement:
If the rearrangement in the sequence of operations helps in simplification or in any other aspect that it
should be done.

Work Measurement
Work measurement refers to the estimation of standard time for an activity, that is the time allowed for
completing one piece of job by using the prescribed method. Standard time can be defined as the time taken
by an average experienced worker for the job with provisions for delays beyond the worker's control.
There are several techniques used for estimation of standard time in industry. These include time study,
work sampling, standard data, and predetermined motion time system.
Applications:
Standard times for operations are useful for several applications in industry, like
• Estimating material, machinery, and equipment requirements.
• Estimating production cost per unit as an input to
• Preparation of budgets
• Determination of selling price
• Make or buy decision
• Estimating manpower requirements.
• Estimating delivery schedules and planning the work
• Balancing the work of operators working in a group.
• Estimating performance of workers and using that as the basis for incentive payment to those direct and
indirector labor who show greater productivity.
We will study some of the popular techniques of work measurement.
TIME STUDY. It is the most versatile and the most widely used technique of work measurement.
Definition:

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Time study is a technique to estimate the time to be allowed to a qualified and well-trained worker working
at a normal pace to complete a specified task by using specified method.
This technique is based on measuring the work content of the task when performed by the prescribed
method, with the allowance for fatigue and for personal and unavoidable delays.
Time Study Procedure:
The procedure for time study can best be described step-wise, which are self explanatory.
Step 1: Define objective of the study. This involves statement of the use of the result, the precision desired,
and the required level of confidence in the estimated time standards.
Step 2: Verify that the standard method and conditions exist for the operation and the operator is properly
trained. If need is felt for method study or further training of operator, the same may be completed before
starting the time study.
Step 3: Select operator to be studied if there are more than one operator doing the same task.
Step 4: Record information about the standard method, operation, operator, product, equipment, and
conditions on the Time Study observation sheet.
Step 5: Divide the operation into reasonably small elements, and record them on the Time Study
observation sheet.
Step 6: Time the operator for each of the elements. Record the data for a few number of cycles on the Time
Study observation sheet. Use the data to estimate the total number of observations to be taken.
Step 7: Collect and record the data of required number of cycles by timing and rating the operator.
Step 8: Calculate the representative watch time for each element of operation. Multiply it by the rating
factor to get normal time.
Normal time = Observed time x Rating factor
Calculate the normal time for the whole operation by adding the normal time of its various elements.
Step 9: Determine allowances for fatigue and various delays.
Step 10: Determine standard time of operation.
Standard time = Normal time + allowances
Selection of job for Time Study
Time Study is conducted on a job
• which has not been previously time-studied.
• for which method change has taken place recently.
• for which worker(s) might have complained as having tight time standards.
Selection of Worker for Time Study

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 The selection of worker for time study is a very important factor in the success of the study. If there is only
one person on the job, as usually is, then there is no choice. But if more than one person is performing the
same operation, the time study man may time one or more of the workers. If all the workers are using the
same method for doing the job and there is different in the rate of their doing it, it is necessary to select a
suitable worker for the study. The worker on which time study should be conducted must
• have necessary skill for the job.
• have sufficient experience with the given method on the job (that is, he should have crossed the learning
stage).
• be an ‘average' worker as regards the speed of working.
• be temperamentally suited to the study (those who can't work in normal fashion when watched, are not
suitable for the study).
• have knowledge about the purpose of study.
Time Study Equipment
The following equipment is needed for time study work.
• Timing device
• Time study observation sheet
• Time study observation board
• Other equipment
Timing Device. The stop watch ( see Figure ) is the most widely used timing device used for time study,
although electronic timer is also sometimes used. The two perform the same function with the difference
that electronic timer can measure time to the second or third decimal of a second and can keep a large
volume of time data in memory.
Time Study Observation Sheet. It is a printed form with spaces provided for noting down the necessary
information about the operation being studied, like name of operation, drawing number, and name of the
worker, name of time study person, and the date and place of study. Spaces are provided in the form for
writing detailed description of the process (element-wise), recorded time or stop-watch readings for each
element of the process, performance rating(s) of operator, and computation. Figure shows a typical time
study observation sheet.
Time Study Board. It is a light -weight board used for holding the observation sheet and stopwatch in
position. It is of size slightly larger than that of observation sheet used. Generally, the watch is mounted at
the center of the top edge or as shown in Figure near the upper right-hand corner of the board. The board has
a clamp to hold the observation sheet. During the time study, the board is held against the body and the
upper left arm by the time study person in such a way that the watch could be operated by the thumb/index
finger of the left hand. Watch readings are recorded on the observation sheet by the right hand.
Other Equipment. This includes pencil, eraser, device like tachometer for checking the speed, etc.
Dividing Work into Short Elements

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Timing a complete task as one element is generally not satisfactory. For the purpose of time study the task is
normally broken
into short elements and each element is timed separately, for the following
reasons:
(1) To separate unproductive part of task from the productive one.
(2) To improve accuracy in rating. The worker may not work at the
same speed throughout the cycle. He may perform some elements faster and
some slower. Breaking of task into short elements permits rating of each
element separately which is more realistic than just rating once for the complete
cycle.
(3) To identify elements causing high fatigue. Breaking of task into short elements permits giving
appropriate rest allowances to different elements.
(4) To have detailed job specifications. This helps in detection of any variation in the method that may occur
after the time standard is established.
(5) To prepare standard data for repeatedly occurring elements.
The following guidelines should be kept in mind while dividing a task into elements.
(1) The elements should be of as short duration as can be accurately timed. (This in turn, depends on the
skill of the time study man, method of timing and recording, and many other factors. Generally, with the
stop watch, elements of duration less than 0.03 to 0.05 minute are difficult to time accurately. The elements
should not normally be longer than 0.40 min.).
(2) Manually performed elements should be separated from machine paced elements. (Time for machine
paced elements can be determined by calculation). Machine elements are not rated against a normal. This
rule also helps in recognition of delays.
(3) Constant elements should be separated from variable elements.
(Constant elements are those elements which are independent of the size, weight,
length, or shape of the workpiece. For example, the time to pick screw driver
from its place and bring it to the head of a screw is constant, whereas the time
to tighten or loosen the screw is a variable, depending upon the length and
size of the screw).
(4) The beginnings and endings of elements should be easily distinguishable. These should preferably be
associated with some kind of sound.
(5) Irregular elements, those not repeated in every cycle, should be separated from regular elements. For
example, if the jig is cleaned off after every ten parts produced, "cleaning" is an irregular element, and its
time should be spread over ten cycles.
(6) Unnecessary motions and activities should be separated from those considered essential.
(7) Foreign or accidental elements should be listed separately. Such elements are generally of non-repetitive
type.

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 Lean Manufacturing

Lean Manufacturing is a systematic approach for eliminating or reducing the process waste through
continuous improvement. The Lean approach is based on finding efficiencies and removing wasteful steps
that don’t add value to the end product. Lean production is not about eliminating people. Lean
manufacturing is an important tool of garment industry for cost reduction.

Lead time management

Various Names, But the Same Concept

1. Toyota Production System

2. Pull Manufacturing
3. Just-In-Time
4. World Class Manufacturing
5. Lean Manufacturing
6. Short Cycle Manufacturing
7. One-Piece-Flow
8. Cellular Manufacturing
9. Demand Flow Manufacturing
10. Stockless Production
11. Focused Flow Manufacturing
12. Agility
13. Value Adding Manufacturing

Lean Manufacturing Application or Implementation in Garment Industry

The Lean concept is just as applicable to offices and other work environments as it is to manufacturing plants. It’s
helpful to relate words like “inventory,” “customers,” and “production” to whatever you’re processing – data,
documents, knowledge, services, and so on.

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Principles of Lean Manufacturing

1. Recognition of waste
2. Standard the process
3. Continuous flow
4. Pull production
5. Quality at source
6. Continuous improvements
7. Value-define by the customer
8. Perfection
Why Lean is Important for the Company?

1. It helps to eliminate the waste

2. Makes a better environment at home & office.
3. Change the culture.
4. Better understanding.
5. Productivity improvement.
6. Better quality.
7. To take the challenge of future business.
Steps of Lean Manufacturing

1. Value stream mapping

2. Kaizen- continuous development
3. Workplace organization-5s
4. Quick change over- small quantity
5. Overall equipment effectiveness- maximum utilization of people instead of mc
6. Pull production
7. Kanban– instruction card
8. Six Sigma- statistical method of systemic analysis to reduce process variation use damic.
9. Total productive maintenance- all level of function to maximize OEE
10. Cellular manufacturing
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Keys to Lean Success

1. Prepare & motivate people

2. Employee involvement
3. Identify & empower champions
4. Atmosphere of experiments

Work place organization 5S

5S comes from 5 Japanese words and each of them starts with S. These
are seiri, seiton, seiso, seiketsu, and shitsuke, if we translate these 5 Japanese words into English then we
get Sort, Set in Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain. In the garment industry 5S works as a basic tool of
Lean Manufacturing, a technique to set a well organized, clean, and visually attractive workplace. That’s
why the implementation of 5S in the Apparel Industry is required.

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Implementing the 5’S method is a base to implement quality improvement/lean procedures.
Expecting the team to be and they do activities in each department: like monitoring, evaluate and
drive the aspects very clean and organized so that, your Factory will look very planned and well
Set-up.
S1. Sort (Seiri)

5S start with sort. Sort means to sort out unnecessary items, use all machines, tools, equipment for
regular use. Define daily needed items, weekly needed items, and monthly needed items and
keeping separate. The store is broken, unusable or occasionally used items also should be defined.
Keep records for eliminating unnecessary items that exist and new items. Each and every section of
garments you may find many things are kept in a haphazard way. So for these, you need to follow
the first S from the 5S, i.e Sort. Sorting according to items characteristics and importance.

S2 – Set in Order – SEITON

Setting order is important for 5S. All items, sections, and areas (In, exist) are clearly identified by a
label and everything should be well organized. Never mix/store two category items in one place.
Dividing lines, aisle mark, Stairway is clearly identified and clean as per standard. Confirm that the
exits are accessible and unlocked during working hours. Confirm that, where necessary, the
emergency exit doors have no panic hardware or lever style (one hand, one motion door openers). If
you keep all of your store materials in your garments warehouse in a planned order basis, then
whenever required that materials you can easily find out and get those materials. That’s why all
materials should be kept in accordance with the set in order.

S3 – Shining – SEISO

The third S from 5S is Shine, actually mean cleanliness. All items/place of workplace Floors, walls, stairs,
ceilings, pipework Racks, cabinets, shelves, Machines, equipment, tools, Stored items, materials, products,
and lighting everything required to be kept clean. All cleaning tools and materials are easily accessible.
Cleaning assignments are defined and are being followed by the checklist and hang checklist on visible
board. Do periodical pest control to make sure there is no insect. Cleanliness is not only a compliance issue
but also this increase a healthy working environment in garments factories or offices.

S4 – Standardize – SEIKETSU

The first three steps of 5S are the key to implement 5S in the workplace. This section is about
visualization by Information displays, related SOPs, signs, color coding and other markings are
established everywhere of the factory also included procedures for maintaining the first three S’s
are being displayed. Do regular 5’s audit using a checklist, give & post rating to each area. Need
formal training, keep training records to approach towards improvement. These standardizations
increase the operating efficiency of the apparel industry.

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 S5 – Sustain – SHITSUKE

This section is to sustain 5S in the textile and garments factory to be the way of life rather than just
a routine. Success stories are being displayed (i.e. before and after pictures) in every section of the
5S board. Give rewards and recognition is part of the 5S system to sustain 5S.

S6 and S7(Extension of 5S)

Now, 5S have two additional points 6th “S” for “Safety” and the 7th “S’’ is “Security”. These two
new points’ objective is to make a safe workplace for all employees. It is the employer’s
responsibility to provide safety and security for both factory and office place in the apparel
industry.

Advantages of 5S for Garments

If you properly follow 5S for your textile and garments industry, then you will get the following
benefits:

▪ Health and Safety is ensured

▪ The base of implementation of quality improvement
▪ Productivity Increase
▪ Save time, cost and storage space
▪ Minimization of accidents & mistakes
▪ Increases efficiency
▪ Creates workplace ownership
▪ The first step for Lean procedures
▪ Increase customer satisfaction
▪ Reduce inventory time
▪ Reduce downtime, wastage
▪ Good working environment
▪ Visualization and labeling
▪ Boost morale
▪ Improve company image
▪ Optimize organization and workplace as per requirement

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▪ Routine wise work schedule and visual Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) everywhere
▪ Everybody knows their working responsibility where and when
▪ Disciplined housekeeping

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