GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR BAND SAW PAGE 52

UPGRADE YOUR
OUTDOOR FURNITURE

June 2023
$7.99
 Bag changes are one
of the messier chores
associated with a
dust collector, but
could not be easier
or mess-free!

Introducing the first Wall-

Mount Hepa Cyclone Dust
Collector! Find the best dust
collection solution to power your shop.
Topping off the Dust Right® line, the NEW 1250 Cyclone takes up
minimal space, while keeping your shop dust free. Pick the collector
to power your shop and help you to work more safely in a better,
healthier environment ... allowing you to create with confidence.

The 650 CFM The 1250 CFM 750 CFM

(58860, $399) (54352, $749) Mobile Dust
works great provides enough Collector
with the Dust power to plumb (57841,
Right, quick your whole shop, $81999) rolls
change handle, plus a Y-adapter to where you
connecting inlet for multiple need it and The NEW Hepa
directly to tools hoses and a can also store 1250 CFM (69982,
with Dust Right remote for easy a floor sweep, $169999)) round out the selection
Ports. on/off from expandable providing power, plus the
anywhere in your hose and features to best fit your wall-
shop! accessories. mount shop needs.

FREE SHIPPING: Orders of $49 or more qualify for this promotion. Additional shipping charges will apply for select over-sized items, express orders, and orders to Alaska, Hawaii, Guam, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands.
This offer does not apply to international customers. This offer cannot be combined with other offers, applied to previous orders. Some offers available only online. Not all items available at retail stores. Offer not valid at Rockler's
independent resellers. Rockler Woodworking and Hardware reserves the right to limit quantities, correct errors or omissions and modify or end this promotion at any time. OFFER ENDS: 6/29/23
For Woodworker's Journal Subscribers!

FREE SHIPPING on $ +
49 orders* Order at Rockler.com, call 800-279-4441
or visit a retail location • Use promo code 14J925
at checkout • Offer valid through 6/29/23

Ready Mount
Brackets plus
Fittings offer
installation
angles previously
unavailable
Bracket teeth interlock
with dust fittings for
secure wall-mounting
with angle adjustments
in 15° increments.

Discover more product options, videos and more information at Rockler.com/dust-collection

Ready Mount Blast Dust Right Quick-

Gates don't jam up, Change Handle
mount easily and allows for a direct
are the best connection between
-designed blast your tool and the
gates on the market! dust collector.

There’s a hose for every situation

video
Clear Dust Right
Dust Right Anti-Static
Flexible Hose Expandable
available in Dust Hose
Hose available available in
21⁄2” and 4” in 21⁄2” and 4”
diameters 21⁄2” and 4”
diameters diameters
Dust Right
FlexiPort Power
Tool Hose Kit

Rockler Exclusives – Quality you can trust 800-279-4441 • Rockler.com

 C O NTENTS
JU NE 20 23 VO LUM E 4 7 , NU M BE R 3

PROJECTS

Pinstriped Knife Block Page 28

By Chris Marshall
Wedges of cherry separated by thin wenge laminations
will showcase your cutlery display on a countertop.
Here’s a chance to put that taper jig to good use!

Page 34

Adirondack Upgrade
By Rob Johnstone
Most of us love the notion of outdoor chairs but not the struggle
to get up and out of them. That’s why our art director set out to
design a better Adirondack — and we think he’s got a winner!

Floating Bedside Shelf

By Nick Brady
While this project involves clamping tricky
miter joints and building precision templates,
\RXUHɅRUWVZLOOEHUHZDUGHGZLWKWKLVFXUY\
twist on bedside storage.
Page 40

Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance
known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards
for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.
4 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
STAY
SHARP
Tormek T-8 Original

www.tormek.com
 DEPARTMENTS

Page 52 Page 58 Page 51

8 From Our Readers/Stumpers
You weigh in on the December
issue’s “Contemporary Table.” A
survey reveals outdoor project faves.
14 Tricks of the Trade
Smart way to measure epoxy or
avoid measuring when hanging pho-
tos. How to hide gaps in plain sight.
16 Shop Talk
Festool unveils new tools for 2023;
Oneida celebrates 30 years.
20 Woodworking Basics
Part two in our beginner’s project
series will have you cutting tapers
and installing a tabletop correctly.
24 Modern Shop Hand Tools
Drawknives and spokeshaves make
quick work of spindles and curved
edges. Both can still be go-to tools.
48 Simplifying Bit Setups
Edge V-groove bits: A better way to
install solid-wood trim on plywood.
51 The Lumberyard (New!)
Black cherry is a premier American
hardwood. Learn more about it.
52 Advanced Power Tool
Techniques
Learn to resaw, pattern-cut, make
compound cuts and prepare bowl
blanks on your band saw like a pro.
58 What’s In Store
New Grr-ripper, cordless glue gun,
bench dog hole template and more.
60 Tool Preview
DVR motor convenience, state-of-
the-art features make the Nova
Nebula full-size lathe a step above.
62 Hardworking Hardware
Chest lids need never lead to
slammed fingers with Sugatsune’s
Aileron Lift-Assist System.
66 Finishing Corner
Give your projects a “Sam Maloof”
finish with this easy-to-apply, satiny
solution from Rockler.

0RUH7DVN/LJKWDQG0DJQLåFDWLRQ+HOS
Improve Project Results at Any Age
I’ve always advocated that you can never have too much light in
Rockler Magnifying LED Work Light a woodworking shop, whether you’re 18 or 88. And now that my
#57312, $89.99
glasses have bifocals, I think the same tenet could be made for
PDJQLåFDWLRQÔ\RXFDQQHYHUKDYHWRRPXFK,I\RXDVVHPEOH
WLQ\SHQFRPSRQHQWVVWUXJJOHWRåQGDNQLIHOLQHZKHQ\RXÖUH
scribing dovetails or could occasionally use a larger view when
tightening those tiny hinge screws, this Magnifying LED Work
Light should help. It features a bright, 60-LED light with a 7-ft cord
set, so you won’t need to feed it a regular supply of batteries. The
4"-wide x 6 5 â 8"-long, 3-diopter magnifying glass makes objects
appear 75 percent larger.
An 18" gooseneck gives this
work light plenty of “reach”
into a bench or counter, and
its mounting clamp opens
to 21 â 2".
Ô&KULV0DUVKDOO

6 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 Product Store

Take Your Air Filtration to new Heights

• HEPA Filtration
• Auto-Clean
• Remote Control

Social Media

lagunatools.com
 FROM OUR READERS 52&./(535(66
7+(92,&(2)7+(:22':25.,1*&20081,7<

-81( 2023
Volume 47, Number 3
The Great Outdoors
ROB JOHNSTONE Publisher
WARM WEATHER WOODWORKING RETURNS ALYSSA TAUER Associate Publisher
I know that for you woodworking folks in the south and CHRIS MARSHALL Senior Content Editor
southwest, the summer heat can be a huge problem, JEFF JACOBSON Senior Art Director
making shop temperatures oppressive. In the same way, DAN CARY Senior Content Strategist
the Yankee contingent without heated shops suffers in the COLLEEN CAREY Videographer
NICK BRADY Project Builder
winter. As Hemingway once said, “Life is cruel, and one
 0$77+(:+2&.,1* Internet Production Coordinator
must endure it with courage.” (Too dramatic?)
Here in the northern climes, spring and summer are the )RXQGHUDQG&KDLUPDQ
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON
bomb-diddly when it comes to woodworking. In my small home-shop garage, one
of the things I like to do is pull my lathe out onto the driveway and let the chips &RQWULEXWLQJ(GLWRU
æ\ZKHUHWKH\PD\LQDOLWHUDOQRWåJXUDWLYHVHQVH&OHDQXSLVGRQHZLWKDOHDI ERNIE CONOVER

EORZHUDQGWKRVHOLWWOHKDVVOHVOLNHVSLOOHGåQLVKDUHMXVWQRWDQLVVXH Advertising Sales

:KHQLWFRPHVWRVXPPHUZRRGZRUNLQJRXWGRRUSURMHFWVDUHORJLFDOWKLQJVWR ROB JOHNSTONE Advertising Sales
build. Spending time outdoors in comfort, sitting on a traditional Adirondack chair rjohnstone@woodworkersjournal.com
(763) 478-8255
or its like is a tradition in my neck of the woods. With that said, we here at the
Journal understand that while some folks love the Adirondack style, others do (GLWRULDO,QTXLULHV
editor@woodworkersjournal.com
QRW:HKRSHWKHXSGDWHGVW\OLQJRIWKHRXWGRRUFKDLUSURMHFW\RXÖOOåQGRQSDJH
RIWKLVLVVXHPLJKWEHDZHOFRPHGFRPSURPLVH,ÖPVXUH\RXÖOOOHWXVNQRZ
Also in this issue is the second installment of our Woodworking Basics series, Subscription Problems/Inquiries
ZKHUHZHWDNHVRPHRIWKHWHFKQLTXHVWDXJKWLQWKHåUVWOHVVRQDQGXVHWKHPWR (800) 765-4119 or
www.woodworkersjournal.com
EXLOGDVPDOOVLGHWDEOH$QGVSHDNLQJRIQHZFRQWHQWWKLVLVVXHZHÖUHODXQFKLQJ
Write Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box 6211,
a new feature discussing wood species. We are fortunate to be working with a Harlan, IA 51593-1711
family-owned sawmill/lumber company and have asked them to give us species (PDLO::-FXVWVHUY#FGVIXOåOOPHQWFRP Include
information (cherry in this issue) from their unique perspective, as well as a video PDLOLQJODEHOIRUUHQHZDOVDQGDGGUHVVFKDQJHV)RUJLIW
subscriptions, include your name and address and
of the milling process. Be sure to check it out. \RXUJLIWUHFLSLHQWÖV
— Rob Johnstone
Book Sales and Back Issues
Call: (800) 610-0883

LETTERS www.woodworkersjournal.com

Finishing Frustration
,QWKHSDVW,KDYHPL[HGGLɅHUHQW
FRDWVRIILQLVKHVWKDWZHUHQRW
compatible and have had to sand
WKHPDOODZD\DQGVWDUWRYHU:KDW
ILQLVKHVDUHFRPSDWLEOHHLWKHUDVD
EDVHRUWRSFRDW":KLFKDUHEHVWIRU
SDUWLFXODUSURMHFWVVXFKDVLQGRRU
RURXWGRRU":KDWZLOOZRUNWRJHWKHU
IRUDJRRGRXWFRPHDQGZKDWVKRXOG
ZHDYRLGFRPELQLQJ"
7RQ\1HZPDQ
9LDWKH,QWHUQHW
2WKHU4XHVWLRQVRU3UREOHPV
Call: (763) 478-8255
rjohnstone@woodworkersjournal.com
6DIHW\)LUVW/HDUQLQJKRZWRRSHUDWHSRZHUDQGKDQGWRROVLV
HVVHQWLDOIRUGHYHORSLQJVDIHZRRGZRUNLQJSUDFWLFHV)RU
purposes of clarity, necessary guards have been removed from
equipment shown in our magazine. We in no way recommend
using this equipment without safety guards and urge readers to
VWULFWO\IROORZPDQXIDFWXUHUVÖLQVWUXFWLRQVDQGVDIHW\SUHFDXWLRQV

Rob Johnstone Responds: :RRGZRUNHUÖV-RXUQDO,661LVSXEOLVKHGLQ)HEUXDU\

)LQLVKLQJLVERWKFRPSOLFDWHGDQG $SULO-XQH$XJXVW2FWREHUDQG'HFHPEHUE\5RFNOHU3UHVV,QF
VLPSOHDWWKHVDPHWLPH6RPH :LOORZ'U0HGLQD013HULRGLFDOSRVWDJHSDLGDW
0HGLQD0LQQHVRWDDQGDGGLWLRQDOPDLOLQJRIåFHV3RVWPDVWHU6HQG
WLPHV,WKLQNWKHODUJHQXPEHUVRI DOODGGUHVVFKDQJHVWR:RRGZRUNHUÖV-RXUQDO32%R[+DUODQ
options we have these days adds to ,$6XEVFULSWLRQ5DWHV2QH\HDU86
WKHFRQIXVLRQ:KLOHWKLVTXHVWLRQ
LVZRUWK\RIDQHQWLUHDUWLFOHKHUH
LVDVQDSVKRW6KHOODFZKLOHLWKDV
some limitations as a topcoat, is a
86IXQGV&DQDGDDQGRWKHUFRXQWULHV6LQJOHFRS\SULFH
5HSURGXFWLRQZLWKRXWSHUPLVVLRQSURKLELWHG3XEOLFDWLRQV0DLO$JUHH
PHQW1XPEHU&DQDGLDQ3XEOLFDWLRQ$JUHHPHQW
©2023 Rockler Press Inc. Printed in USA.

8 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

wonderful sealer. For practical
purposes, everything can be
put on top of it — varnish,
both water- and oil-based
poly, lacquer and even paint.
Curing oil finishes (Watco and
the like) can all be applied
on top of one another. For
all of the various brands on
the market, they are mostly
GLɅHUHQWFRPELQDWLRQVRIWKH
VDPHVWXɅ2QFHDQRLOILQLVK
is fully cured, you can put oil-
based poly over it. I happen to
like this combo, as the oil will
pop the grain and the poly will
build up a protective film coat.
Shellac will also bond to cured
oil finishes. The simplest way
to know if a finish is okay out-
doors is to read the can. Spar
varnish is great exterior finish
if you want a clear coat, and
so is exterior poly. Another
very durable outdoor finish
is exterior paint. We have
produced a DVD called The
Way to Woodwork: Step-by-Step
to a Perfect Finish (item 46512
at rockler.com) that will help
you learn much more.
Settling Shop Estates? it is or what it is worth. By the
I am a physician and was told way, thank you for your won-
in medical school that none of derful publication. It keeps me
us get out of here alive. What excited about woodworking.
steps should we be taking to Jerome List, D.D.S., M.D.
prepare for the time that our Via the Internet
family has to dispose of our
shops and items accumulated WJ Responds: This is an
over the years? I know this excellent topic. Perhaps fellow
may sound morbid but it is a readers who have had to
reality, and I have heard of dispossess the shops of others
horror stories about families FRXOGZULWHLQDQGRɅHUWKHLU
trying to get rid of all this thoughts. We will share some
VWXɅQRWKDYLQJDQ\LGHDZKDW of that feedback in the future.

READER PROJECTS
Recently our Weekly newsletter asked readers to share favorite
projects they’re built. Here are two that caught our eye. See many
more examples at woodworkersjournal.com. Under the “Weekly”
header, click “Feedback” and then scroll to “Favorite Woodworking
Projects” and “Even More Favorite Projects.”

In Memory of an Animal Lover

Mesquite Masterpiece
This project started more than seven years ago when I was
learning the sawmill trade from a mentor of mine. When I said I
wanted to make a dining table someday, he said, “Let’s go pick
out a log.” We slabbed a mesquite log and started kiln-drying
it that day. It sat in storage until this year when I finally got
around to building the table. It is live edge, 15 ¹ 8ŹWKLFNDURXQG
ŹZLGHRQDYHUDJHDQGORQJ
Lee Summers
Via the Internet
Here’s a zebra rocker I made for the Arizona Humane Society
to auction at one of their fundraising events. I used wood from
some furniture I took apart that had belonged to my mother. I
saved it for years to make something real special. She always
loved animals, so I knew it would have made her happy. I have
no idea who got it, but I’m sure my mother was smiling down
from Heaven, and hopefully it gave the child who received it a
lot of happiness!
Lori Scott
Via the Internet

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 9

 FROM OUR READERS CONTINUED

Why that Style of Stile? bottom edges of the Side

In the “Shaker-inspired Cabi-
net” project [February 2023],
why did the author cope the
ends of the Side Frame Stiles
(pieces 4)? Usually, the ends
of rails are coped instead. Was
there a reason to switch?
Al Conner
Via the Internet
Chris Marshall Responds:
When I designed the project,
that decision was personal
preference. I didn’t like the
look of the Side Frame Stiles
extending all the way to the
Frame Bottom Rails. Visually,
they looked better to me ter-
minating at the tops of those
wider bottom rails, which
makes it necessary to cope
their ends. Paint coverage
makes this choice almost a
non-issue, but for those who
might build this cabinet and
finish it clear, or if the joint
seams end up telegraphing
through the paint over time,
I think those side frame ar-
rangements will look better.
Continues on page 12 ...

SURVEY
OUTDOOR WOODWORKING PROJECTS
In this survey, we asked woodworkers what types of outdoor projects
they have built and what species of wood they use for this purpose.

2. Which of the following other types of

outdoor projects have you built?
a. Birdhouse 26%
b. Birdfeeder 16%
c. Plant stand 20%
d. Lending library 2%
e. Mailbox 9%
f. Garden border or raised garden 23%
g. Other 5%
1. Which of the following outdoor furniture
projects have you built? 3. Which of these woods are your preferred
a. Adirondack chair 11% species for outdoor lumber?
b. Bench 24% a. Cedar 35%
c. Picnic table 17% b. Cypress 10%
d. Porch swing or glider 8% E&QWINCU óT 
e. Lounge chair 3% d. Hemlock 2%
f. Outdoor furniture — e. Mahogany 3%
not Adirondack style 11% f. Pine 14%
g. Side table 15% g. Teak 5%
h. Other 6% h. White oak 15%
i. I don’t build outdoor furniture 5% i. Other 9%

10 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 EPOXY LIKE
The most complete
catalog for woodworkers
A PRO
• Featuring over 10,000 items
• Innovative jigs and tools
• Router accessories
• Rare hardwood
• Turning supplies
Get your FREE catalog today
at rockler.com/catalog-request or
call 1-800-279-4441 (Code 1071) ®

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 11

 FROM OUR READERS
There’s more online at
ZRRGZRUNHUVMRXUQDOFRP
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
Check online for more content
covering the articles below:
Woodworking Basics
(page 20):
Follow along to build a simple
table project (video);
downloadable plan (PDF)
Modern Shop Hand Tools
(page 24):
Learn more about using draw-
knives and spokeshaves (video)
Pinstriped Knife Block
(page 28):
Planing thin stock safely with a
carrier board (video)
Simplifying Bit Setups
(page 48):
Routing plywood for solid-wood
edging with V-groove bits
(video)
The Lumber Yard (page 51):
Watch a cherry log being sawn
into lumber (video)
Advanced Power Tool
Techniques (page 52):
Resawing on a band saw (video)
What’s in Store (page 58):
Featured tools in action (videos)
Hardworking Hardware
(page 62):
Installing a Sugatsune Aileron
Lift-Assist system on a simple
outdoor bench (video)
12
CONTINUED
&OHDW&ODULåFDWLRQ
I’m in the process of making
the cool-looking “Contempo-
rary Table” on the December
2022 cover. How did you
mount the tabletop to the
cleats? You mentioned in
the last paragraph that you
removed one cleat and then
installed the top, putting the
cleat back in place? I’m a little
confused.
Pat Bedker
Via the Internet
Rob Johnstone Responds:
The cleats attach to the table-
top with screws. They’re also
captured in grooves in the
upper cross stretchers. I did
not glue the tabletop assembly
in those grooves; it just floats
in them. To attach the table-
top, turn it upside down and
install one cleat. Then put the
leg subassembly on the top
and engage it in the tabletop
cleat that’s screwed in place.
Now insert the loose cleat in
its cross stretcher groove and
screw it to the tabletop. Done!
The key to mounting the
tabletop on the “Contem-
SRUDU\7DEOHÙLVWRåUVW
secure one of the cleats to
the tabletop. Fit the legs
into place with this cleat’s
tongue engaging a slot on
the upper cross stretcher
groove. Then install the
second cleat.
&RQWHPSRUDU\7DEOH
,QVSLUHV1HZ%XLOGHU
I’m a fairly new woodworker,
but I just wanted to write in
and share how much I love the
December issue’s “Contempo-
rary Table.” It has a beautiful
style that is both simple and
modern. I appreciate the work
involved in explaining how
to build it, plus the author’s
thoughts about why he chose
to dye the maple parts black.
I only wish the grid size had
been included on the templat-
ed drawings on page 31, but
I know I will be able to figure
those out. I don’t have a rout-
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
Cleat tongue
Upper cross
stretcher groove
er table, band saw or thick-
ness planer yet; my main tool
is a 10" Sears table saw and
some hand tools. But my math
is pretty good and I have a lot
of confidence. I’m going to try
building this table anyway!
Miguel Cardona
Via the Internet
WJ Responds: Each square
on those gridded drawings
equals 1/2", Miguel. We hope
this helps, and thanks for
bringing it to our attention.
We regret the omission. Have
fun building your table!
STUMPERS What’s This?

Clearly Set
Mystery tool’s
pointed purpose.
Sixty-seven guessers took
aim at Ken Gatto’s February
mystery tool labeled “Bull-
ock.” And that branding was
a dead giveaway for many.
“It’s a Leach Pattern Saw Set
No. 1, produced by Bullock
Manufacturing in Springfield,
Massachusetts, reports Sim
Galazka of Crozet, Virginia.
“These date back to the early
1900s,” adds Robert Good-
man. “I have three of them
and use them!” says Steven
Woughter.
“As a (handsaw) blade is
filed to sharpen it,” explains
Dave Wozniak of Green-
field, Massachusetts, “the
pattern sinks down into the
blade, truncating the existing
set.” Floyd Koppenhaver
continues, “These were used
to reset the teeth.”
“The screw in front holds
the blade in place and deter-
mines the width of the set,
Ken Gatto’s February mystery tool “looks fairly similar to my Sandvik 112
bow saw set,” says Ryan Ochs of his saw set, shown here. “The body of
the blade goes into the tool and the tongue pushes down on the outside.”
while the little ‘half parrot’ handle,” says Ron Emrich of
This mystery tool from Earl Slack’s
thingy pinches the tooth New Lisbon, Wisconsin. “The
grandfather is stamped “E. C. Stea-
against the hollowed-out anvil tool sets the kerf width so
to create the set,” explains the saw does not bind when rns & Co Syracuse NY.” A ring with
Bill Taylor of Philadelphia, sawing,” clarifies Tom Polsin, eight holes on the device is stamped
Pennsylvania. “Every other a fellow Wisconsinite. Russ with the hole diameters 1, 7/8, 5/8,
tooth is set, then the saw is Bolton of Titusville, Florida, 9/16, 3/8, 1/2, 11/16 and 3/4. Do
turned over and every other concurs with Tom.
you know what this tool is for?
tooth is set in the opposite Don Mleziva of Appleton,
Email your answers to
direction,” furthers William Wisconsin, and Garfield
Passey, hailing from Sandy, Welsh also point out that stumpers@woodworkersjournal.com
Utah. these saw sets were not only or write to “Stumpers,”
“On top are two settings, made for tuning up handsaws Woodworker’s Journal, 4365
one for the set and the other but also the teeth of steel Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340.
for tooth length,” Gene Za- circular saw blades.
jicek points out. 7KDQNVWRDOOZKRRɅHUHG
“You start from the narrow their guesses and stories!
(blade) end and work to the

TRIVIA
Pigment Stains are Down to Earth
When pigments are used to color wood, they work the same as if you took a
handful of ordinary mud and just wiped it over a board. What is left behind
clinging in the grain is the coloring. If you wash off the mud, away goes the
coloring. It’s just that simple. Pigments do not actually change the color of
the wood, they simply add or contribute their color to it. The good news about
pigment stains is that they are very easy to control, since they do their job by
laying on the wood and in the grain spaces. Also, pigments are very lightfast.
After all, they are just dirt, and dirt doesn’t bleach much.
Tim B. Inman
The Art of Classical Furniture Finishing
Red Rose Press; ISBN: 1434837394

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 13

 TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Secrets for Hiding Gaps and Hanging Frames
Mix Small Amounts
of Epoxy by Weight
I use a lot of two-part epoxy in
my shop, and I buy it in small bottles.
For these epoxies to cure properly, it’s crucial to mix them in
a 1:1 ratio, and guessing wrong when squeezing out a dollop
of each can lead to lengthy cure times or improper hardening.
7RVROYHWKHSUREOHP,NHHSDVPDOOSRVWDOVFDOHRQP\EHQFK
that weighs down to 0.1 gram. I squeeze what I need into little
SDSHUFXSVDQGZHLJKWKHP7KLVZD\,FDQEHFHUWDLQ,KDYHD
perfect ratio of resin to hardener before mixing them up.
Bill Wells
Olympia, Washington
Leave Sanding Discs
in the Dust
I bet you, like me, have
struggled before to
remove adhesive-backed
sanding discs from your
disc sander. Even when
the disc is spent, that
adhesive wants to keep
sticking as you peel the
GLVFRɅRIWKHSODWH
Here’s a trick: Dust the
backing with baby powder
while using a putting knife
WRSU\LWRɅ7KHSRZGHU
will adhere to the adhesive to prevent it from sticking again,
DQGLWUHDOO\KHOSV0DNHVXUHWRFOHDQWKHSRZGHURɅWKHSODWH
thoroughly before you install the new disc for the best adhesion.
Bob Mohalski
Hebron, Kentucky
14
Socket-assisted
Speed Clamping
7LJKWHQLQJFODPSV
doesn’t have to
cause hand strain.
Just drill and tap
the ends of your
wood-handled bar
clamps for 5/16"
machine bolts and
nuts. By adding a
nut beneath the bolt
head, you’ll increase
the surface area,
giving you better
purchase with a socket. Now you can clamp or unclamp with a
drill/driver, socket adapter and socket instead of twisting the
clamp handle by hand. I suggest using #5 hardened nuts and
bolts and some thread locker to hold them in alignment.
Lou Kern
Oakland, California
Color the Gap to
Help Hide It
It’s pretty common
when hanging
crown molding
that the joints
don’t always come
together perfectly.
Sometimes a slight
visible light-colored
line results where
the unfinished
molding shows
through at the joint.
In order to make
this less obvious to
the casual eye, I have found that marking both inside edges of
the crown where they will meet, using a black marker or a sim-
ilar wood-colored pen, minimizes the mismatched seam. Once
the joint is assembled, most people will never see the gap.
Dale Miller
Modesto, California
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
 PICHKE
OF T
TRICKS

In addition to our standard

payment (below), Jim Wilson of San
Marcos, Texas, will also receive a
Milwaukee M18 FUEL™ 61 â 2" Plunge
Track Saw for being selected as the
“Pick of the Tricks” winner. We pay
Pinhole Marks the Spot when Hanging Picture Frames a one-time sum of $150 for each
While this isn’t a woodworking-specific trick, we all hang picture frames — and many are proba- trick used. To join in the fun, send
bly those we make. Here’s a very simple way to use the frame to help mark the wall where you us your original, unpublished trick.
want to hang it. Push a thumb tack with a flat head through the sticky side of a strip of painter’s Please include a photo or drawing if
tape. Then place and stick down the thumb tack point on the frame exactly where you want the
necessary. For your chance to win,
nail to intersect the hook or slot of what you are hanging. I like to locate the thumb tack under
submit your Tricks to Woodworker’s
the mounting hook on the frame, as shown above. Use light pressure to adhere the tape to the
Journal, Dept. T/T, P.O. Box 261,
frame. Now position the frame on the wall where you want to hang it, and push it against the
wall. The thumb tack will make a tiny hole to precisely mark where to drive the nail. Medina, MN 55340.
Jim Wilson Or send us an email:
San Marcos, Texas tricks@woodworkersjournal.com

SUPERIOR PROTECTION
WATER-BASED
APPLICATION
Masters Armor® Interior
Water-Based Clear Finish
Use on floors, cabinets, furniture, or almost any
type of woodwork
• Applies easily and dries quickly
• Superior durability on floors
• Hardener additive provides maximum
protection on high traffic surfaces

myoldmasters.com | (800) 747-3436 |

SCAN QR CODE TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE & FIND A STORE NEAR YOU

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 15

 SHOP TALK
Festool “Recharged 2023” Media Event
By Ernie Conover
Our contributing editor shares some initial
reactions to Festool’s latest tool offerings.
E
arly last February, I
was one of about 35
media guests invited to
Festool’s U.S. headquarters in
Lebanon, Indiana, to try out
recent and yet-to-be-launched
tools. Interestingly, only one
The CSC SYS 50 Table Saw’s blade is raised, lowered and tilted by electronics (see inset). The top button is for
elevation and the bottom button is for tilt. Turning the knob gives macro (coarse) adjustment of either blade height
of them was corded. I am not
including pricing here, as this
“Recharged 2023” event was
a preview, and pricing was not
yet determined at that time.
Even though Festool’s new
tool releases have been sty-
mied during the pandemic due
to supply chain interruptions
and computer chip shortages,
there are some interesting
QHZRɅHULQJVDQGKHUHDUHD
few of the standouts.
CSC SYS 50
Cordless Table Saw
I finally had the chance to lay
hands on this much-rumored
cordless table saw, which has
been out in Germany for some
time. I was not disappointed,
and in my mind the CSC SYS
50 was tied for the best in
show. Running on two 18-volt
batteries, this lightweight,
portable table saw features
electronic blade tilt and
height control. It’s an elegant,
well-thought-out new saw that
would be at home at any con-
struction site or small shop.
TSV 60 Track Saw
The second ground-break-
ing new tool tied for best in
show is the TSV 60 Counter
Scoring Corded Track Saw.
High-end table saws have long
sported a small counter-scor-
ing blade ahead of the main
blade. It turns in the opposite
direction of the main blade
RUWLOWDQGSXVKLQJLWLQSURYLGHVPLFURDGMXVWPHQWåQH,PSHULDORUPHWULFLVGRQHE\VRIWZDUHVHWWLQJDOORZLQJ and cuts a shallow (about a
XVHUVWRZRUNLQHLWKHUPHDVXUHPHQWV\VWHPSDLQOHVVO\+HUHWKHVDZLVDWWDFKHGWRD&7&0,',,'XVW([WUDFWRU 1/32"-deep) groove, which
another new cordless option that, like the table saw, takes two 18-volt batteries. then allows the main blade to

16 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

Here the TSV 60 Track Saw is cutting melamine (the chippiest of all sheet
goods) perfectly. You can see the small counter-scoring blade ahead of
the main blade. Note the second motor for powering the small blade.
cut through without any tear-
ing of wood grain or chipping
of laminate. The TSV 60 is
so configured. As with table
saws, the scoring blade on
this track saw may be retract-
ed for conventional cutting.
CTC MIDI 1 and SYS 1
Dust Extractors
Festool’s current line of
industrial HEPA tool-trig-
gered dust extractors only
work with corded tools. For
cordless models, the existing
plug-in dust extractors require
manual starting and stopping.
The new cordless CTC MIDI
1 and the CTC SYS 1 Cordless
Systainer Dust Extractor
(which has been on the mar-
ket for a while) overcome this
problem by way of Bluetooth
connection to the tool for the
stop and start function. It’s a
helpful innovation for today’s
battery-driven Festool lineup.
KSC 60 Cordless Sliding
Compound Miter Saw
Festool’s Kapex KSC 60 Cord-
less Sliding Compound Miter
Saw isn’t brand new, but it
was nice to give it a test drive.
It worked with the same func-
tionality as my plug-in Kapex
120 miter saw, which I have
used for a decade. The KSC
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
The author found the Kapex KSC 60 Cordless Sliding Compound Miter
Saw up to par with his corded version of the tool. The saw includes a dol-
ly-style rolling stand with extension tables for added workpiece support.
60’s rolling (dolly-like) cart
makes for easy transfer from
a truck to a work location.
Extension tables alongside the
saw help ensure fully support-
ed workpieces. For a jobsite
where power has yet to be
brought in, this saw’s cordless
feature will be welcomed.
RCS 18 Recip Saw
Reciprocating saws are in
most carpenter’s kits, and
the new RSC 18 provided
some useful innovations.
First is dust collection, and Festool’s new RSC 18 Reciprocating Saw made tough cuts without pum-
the second is a gyroscopic meling the user with extra vibration. It also has helpful dust collection.
vibration control system that
enables the saw to cut more
smoothly and transmit much
less vibration to the user than
other recip saws I’ve used.
GHS 25 Ear Buds
)HVWRROQRZRɅHUV*+6
Ear Protection Buds for safer
work in noisy environments. I
tried a pair on and found them
ERWKHɅHFWLYHDQGFRPIRUW-
able, mainly due to a wide
range of rubber adapter plugs
that should accommodate any
ear canal. According to the
folks at Festool, these earbuds
RɅHUDG%QRLVHUHGXFWLRQ
and allow Bluetooth connec- Offering a 25 dB noise-reduction rating, these new GHS 25 Ear Buds should
tion to your smart phone for provide ample hearing protection for power tool use, plus the added con-
music or calls. venience of Bluetooth connectivity for listening to music or taking a call.
17
 SHOP TALK CONTINUED

Oneida Air Systems Marks 30 Years

By WJ Staff
Industry leader of American-made
dust collection products.

From left to right are iterations of the company’s most iconic product, the
Dust Deputy cyclone pre-separator in blue steel (2006), original molded
(2008) and 2.5 molded (2022).

sible system for smaller wood- Deputy cyclone pre-separator

working shops. They focused
on a scientific approach using
airflow principles, cyclone
separators and industrial filter
Oneida Air Systems history in the making. Founders Robert Witter (left) media in correct proportion.
and Peter Fedrigon (right) in their garage on Oneida Lake in 1993, where
2QHLGD$LU´VILUVWRɅHULQJZDV
the company originated.
a cyclone separator, which
for wet/dry vacuums to their
highly-awarded Supercell dust
collector, Oneida Air contin-
ues to spur industry advance-
ment for the betterment of
woodworkers the world over.
Today the company holds over

N
Supercell Turbo Dust Collector
ow celebrating 30
years in business,
Oneida Air Systems
has grown from a two-man
operation working out of a
garage to a dust collection
manufacturing leader in Syr-
acuse, New York. It’s a true
American dream built brick by
brick by co-founders Robert
Witter and Peter Fedrigon.
Drawing from their
expertise in designing dust
collection systems for large
manufacturers, in 1993 Witter
and Fedrigon embarked on a
mission to create the best pos-
drastically improved collection
HɅHFWLYHQHVVIRUEDJJHGGXVW
collectors.
Within two years, they
launched their first motor-
ized cyclonic collector and
ductwork design plans for
individual workshops. Shortly
thereafter, the company came
out with the first open-pleated
cartridge filters that are the
industry standard today. In-
novation continued to propel
Oneida Air forward, with the
ensuing years being filled with
groundbreaking inventions.
From the revolutionary Dust
59 pending and active patents,
with products sold in nearly
50 countries.
Oneida Air has thrived as a
U.S. manufacturer of Amer-
ican-made products when
many competitors have moved
their operations overseas. The
company has built a repu-
tation for high-quality dust
collection systems, the expert
knowledge of its in-house
technical sales and support
team, and its commitment to
helping woodworkers achieve
the cleanest shops possible.

18 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 TODAY’S

WOODWORKER
®

THE COMPLETE COLLECTION

The Today’s Woodworker Complete Collection CD compiles

everything — from projects (over 200!) to techniques and tips —
from over nine years’ worth of Today’s Woodworker
magazine, the predecessor to Woodworker’s Journal. Whether
you’re building for your kids, grandkids, your spouse or yourself,
ÊÀÆʓ½½ȱ¿µ²ÁÃÀ»¶´ÅŹ²ÅȱÅÄÊÀÆÿ¶¶µÄʇŶ¾ЂІЄІЇʇ

www.woodworkersjournal.com/wj2331
Or call 800-610-0883 (use code WJ2331 and item #48689)

EASY APPLICATION
SUPERIOR COLOR
CONTROL

LEARN MORE

(800) 747-3436
myoldmasters.com

EPOXY LIKE
Classic Plans
Only $1 ea.
A PRO
®

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 19

NEW DEPARTMENT

WOODWORKING BASICS
Build a Sturdy End Table
By WJ Staff
Using techniques from our last
Tabletop::LSHRQRLOåQLVK
Woodworking Basics article, we take the Legs and aprons: Paint
next step up to a laminated tabletop.

www.woodworkersjournal.com

MORE ON THE WEB

To watch a video of building this
VIDEO table or to download a PDF plan for
it, please visit woodworkersjournal.com
and click on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
T
his is the second in-
stallment of our Wood-
working Basics article
series. In the April issue step
stool project, we covered, in
part, cutting the ends of pre-
pared stock square and cut-
ting legs and aprons to length.
Those same techniques will
be used in this small table
project. If you missed that
issue or want to refresh your
memory, you can find a video
and downloadable article PDF
covering the previous project
at woodworkersjournal.com.
This time around, we will
assume you have those basics
well in hand.
Solid Wood Tabletop
This small table has very
similar parts to the step stool
— legs, aprons and top. Again,
we will avoid using power
tools to keep things simple.
7KHELJJHVWGLɅHUHQFHLQWKLV
project is that the tabletop is
not made of plywood but piec-
es of solid wood instead (beau-
tiful mahogany in this case).
This change adds beauty but
introduces several wood-
working problems to solve.
First, solid wood expands
and contracts widthwise with
seasonal humidity changes.
For that reason, if we attached
the tabletop to the legs and

20 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

Shaping the Legs and Drilling for Dowels

Photo 1: Measure in 11 â 8" at the bottom of the leg and 4 3 â 4" up the edge of Photo 2: Mark out the same angle on an adjoining face of the leg. Remove
the leg to form a long narrow triangle. Use your hand saw and the tech- that triangular section. Now the leg has a 11 â 8"-square “foot” and two
niques from our last Woodworking Basics article to cut the section away. adjoining angled faces, called tapers.

Photo 3: Mark a line 11 â 2" down from the top of a leg. Use that line to locate Photo 4: Center the doweling jig on the ends of the aprons and bore match-
a doweling jig set up for 3/8" dowels. Use the Drawing below to position ing holes to the ones you just drilled into the legs.
the dowels on the proper faces. Drill two dowel holes per leg face.

aprons with glue blocks as we

did with the step stool project,
that expansion could break 5
4
the glue joints between the
legs and aprons, or its contrac- 3 4
tion could cause a crack to 2
form in the tabletop. We solve 1
this problem by attaching the
tabletop with screws driven 3
through elongated holes in the
angle braces. These slotted
2
holes, oriented parallel to the 1
tabletop’s width, will allow the 1
mahogany to “move” through
the seasons as needed. MATERIAL LIST 1
There is a second wood- TxWxL
working problem you may 1 Legs (4) 2" x 2" x 161 â 4"
have to address regarding the 2 Long Aprons (2) 3/4" x 3" x 173â 4"
tabletop. It’s made from three 3 Short Aprons (2) 3/4" x 3" x 85â 8"
pieces of solid lumber that
4 Angle Braces (4) 3/4" x 11â 2" x 61â 2"
we sourced from rockler.com.
5 Top Lumber (3) 3/4" x 5" x 24"
They are pre-dimensioned at
3/4" x 5" x 24". When you put

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 21

 WOODWORKING BASICS CONTINUED
Laminating a 3/4"-thick Tabletop

3KRWR$UUDQJHWKHWKUHHWDEOHWRSSLHFHVLQDZD\WKDWXVHVWKHåJXUH Photo 6: Spread a thin coat of glue on each adjoining edge. Use a mini-
of the wood most attractively. (This is entirely subjective.) Mark them in mum of three clamps to squeeze those edges tightly together. Make every
some way to keep the orientation of the boards clear. HIIRUWWRNHHSWKHWKUHHERDUGVLQOLQHZLWKHDFKRWKHUWRPDNHDæDWSDQHO

Squaring up the Top and Sanding it Flat

Photo 7: Use a square of some type to draw a line across the tabletop near Photo 8: Starting with 80-grit paper, sand diagonally across the panel.
each end. Trim off these waste areas with a handsaw. Smooth the cut Then sand diagonally the opposite way with 100-grit to remove all the 80-
ends with sandpaper and a sanding block, removing any saw marks. grit scratches. Finally, switch to 150- and 180-grits, and sand lengthwise.

them side by side, their edges boards to see how straight their edges somehow. We
may align perfectly well for a they were, and they aligned tested this as well and found
glue-up. If so, you are golden. well.) But if your boards show that trimming just a tiny bit
(We tried many of these a gap, you need to straighten RɅWKHHGJHVRIWKHERDUGV
using a table saw fixed the
problem. You can also solve
Dowel Joinery: An Apron and Leg Joint Solution it with a sanding block and
80-grit sandpaper to remove
Dowels solve the problem of joining end grain to edge the high spots on the edge of
grain (aprons to legs, for example) by forming strong a board. The video of making
joints. (It’s similar to how the Beadlock system worked this project will demonstrate
this edge-flattening technique.
in our April issue’s step stool project.) Doweling jigs, al-
A third detail to solve
though not absolutely required, absolutely make the job regarding the solid wood top
of aligning dowel holes across a joint easy. The Rockler is flattening it. When you glue
doweling jig shown at left comes in three versions for the three boards together,
1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" dowel diameter sizes. We used there will likely be tiny
3/8"-diameter dowels on this project. Precut, spiraled misalignments between the
edges. Solve this by sanding
dowels are also available at Rockler.
the panel flat. Start with 80-

22 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

'U\åWDQG*OXHXS

3KRWR7HVWåWWKHOHJDQGDSURQVXEDVVHPEO\SLHFHV&ODPSWKHPWLJKWO\ 3KRWR$SSO\JOXHWRWKHGRZHOVDQGWKHHQGVRIWKHDSURQV7DSWKH
WRHQVXUHDOOWKHGRZHOMRLQWVFORVHXS7KHQWDNHWKHSLHFHVDSDUW<RX SLHFHVWRJHWKHUZLWKDPDOOHWLIQHFHVVDU\&ODPSWKHOHJDQGDSURQ
PD\QHHGDSOLHUVWRJHWVRPHRIWKHGRZHOVRXW VXEDVVHPEO\WRJHWKHUDQGDOORZWKHJOXHWRFXUH

0DNLQJ'ULOOLQJDQG$WWDFKLQJWKH$QJOH%UDFHV

3KRWR)URPWKHUHPDLQLQJDSURQVWRFNULSDQGFURVVFXW1 â 2" x 6 1 â 2" 3KRWR'ULOOKROHVLQWRWKHDQJOHEUDFHVDVVKRZQLQWKHLQVHWSKRWR

SLHFHVWRPDNHWKHDQJOHEUDFHV8VHDVSHHGRUFRPELQDWLRQVTXDUHWR &ODPSDQDQJOHEUDFHLQWRSODFHDQGWKHQGULYH1 â ORQJSDQKHDGVFUHZV
PDUNGHJUHHDQJOHVRQHDFKHQGDQGFXWWKHVHPLWHUHGFRUQHUV LQWRWKHDSURQV$WWDFKDOOIRXUDQJOHEUDFHV

3KRWR'ULOOWKUHHGLDPHWHUKROHVLQDOLQHLQHDFKDQJOHEUDFH 3KRWR$WWDFKWKHWDEOHWRSWRWKHOHJDQGDSURQVXEDVVHPEO\XVLQJWKH
SDUDOOHOWRWKHVKRUWDSURQV7KHQDQJOHWKHGULOOWRFRQQHFWWKHVHKROHV VDPHVFUHZVDVLQ3KRWR6QXJXSWKHVFUHZVEXWGRQRWRYHUWLJKWHQ

grit paper and sand diagonally
across the panel using a
sanding block. Sand until the
panel is flat. Then shift to 100-
grit and sand diagonally in the
opposite direction to remove
the 80-grit sanding marks.
Now change to 150- and then
180-grit sandpaper and sand
longways, with the grain.
(Power sanders would speed
this up!) Of course you need
to sand both faces. Finishing
the end table is up to you.
Working with this solid top
has advanced your woodwork-
ing skills considerably!

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 23

NEW DEPARTMENT

MODERN SHOP HAND TOOLS

Drawknives and Spokeshaves
By Ernie Conover

Various trades have used this hand tool combo for centuries to
bring wood to round or oval shapes. Both tools can be equally
useful today and are often faster than power tools.

A
Shown from left to right are the
GUDZNQLIHDVD VHDWFDQLQJVWULSVWULPPLQJ WKHRXWHUEDUNRɅRIORJVRU
Flexcut 5" drawknife with leather
sheath and a 6" drawknife and
scorp made by the author’s compa-
ny, Conover Woodcraft Specialties,
Inc., in the 1980s.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
To see an in-depth
VIDEO video of the author using
drawknives and spokeshaves, visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
URXJKLQJWRROZLWKD
VSRNHVKDYHDVDILQ
LVKLQJWRRODUH\RNHGSDUWQHUV
WKDWOLNHDWHDPRIR[HQFDQ
JHWDQLQFUHGLEOHDPRXQWRI
ZRUNGRQH,IVHWWLQJXSSRZHU
WRROVIRUDMREIHHOVSRNH\
\RXPLJKWILQGWKDWWKLVKDQG
WRROGXRLVRIWHQMXVWDVIDVW
ZLWKPLQLPDOVHWXSUHTXLUHG
7KHVHWRROVZHUHXVHGE\D
YDULHW\RIWUDGHVIRUFUHDWLQJ
WKHHGJHVRIOHDWKHUVWULSVDQG
FUHDWLQJFXUYHGDQGUDGLXVHG
HGJHVWRQDPHDIHZ
Drawknives
'UDZNQLYHVFRQVLVWRIDWR
ORQJNQLIHEODGHZLWKD
WDQJDWHDFKHQGWKDWLVEHQW
DWVOLJKWO\OHVVWKDQDULJKW
DQJOHWRWKHEODGH+DQGOHV
DUHDWWDFKHGWRERWKHQGV,W
LVDOPRVWDOZD\VSXOOHGKHQFH
FRRSHULQJVWDYHVRUGRZQ
ZDUGIRUKROORZLQJFKDLUVHDWV
VKRYHOVDQGVXFK7KHODWWHU
ZKHQDSSURDFKLQJDVHJPHQW
RIDFLUFOHLVFRPPRQO\
UHIHUUHGWRDPRQJVWFKDLUPDN
HUVDVDVFRUS7KHHGJHLV
XVXDOO\DFRQYH[DUF
7KHGUDZNQLIHLVSHUIHFWIRU
EULQJLQJDOHQJWKRIZRRGWR
DURXQGRURYDOVKDSH7KH\
ZHUHDQGVWLOODUHXVHGLQ
on “More on the Web” under the URXQGVWRFNZKHHOVSRNHV WKHQDPHZLWKWKHEHYHOXS WKHLQLWLDOSKDVHVRIKHZLQJ
Magazine tab. FKDLUVSLQGOHVSHJVIRUSRVW EXWLWFDQEHSXVKHGLIQHHG WKHVSLQGOHVLQWKHEDFNV
DQGEHDPEXLOGLQJVWULSSLQJ HG0RVWKDYHDVWUDLJKWEODGH RI:LQGVRUFKDLUVWRWKHLU
EDUNIURPORJVEODFNDVKIRU EXWVRPHDUHDUFKHGHLWKHU XQLTXHVKDSH:KHHOPDNHUV
EDVNHWVSOLQWDQGKLFNRU\IRU XSZDUGPRVWO\IRUSHHOLQJ DQGFRRSHUVDOVRHPSOR\HG

24 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal


A younger author using the drawknife in a reenactment of woodworking
prior to 1800. He was preparing a blank for turning in a spring pole lathe.
Woodturners were another trade that often used drawknives.
drawknives extensively — the
former for wheel spokes and
the latter to make the staves a
uniform arc on the inside and
outside of a barrel.
In use, the handles allow
you to put your upper body
and arm strength into slicing
thick shavings. One must
pay close attention to grain
direction, or splitting the
workpiece along the grain will
result. Avoiding this often
entails shaping half the piece
in one direction and then
reversing the cuts for the
other half.
A number of companies
still make drawknives today,
and serviceable examples in
good condition are some of
the easiest tools to find on the
antique market.
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
Spokeshaves
A spokeshave is a finishing
tool. It refines a drawknife’s
work to its final shape with a
smooth surface. Spokeshaves
come in two types — those
with wood bodies and those
made entirely from metal.
The former can be thought of
as a wooden jig with handles
at each side that surrounds a
blade and limits the thickness
of the shaving it generates.
Wood spokeshaves have a very
low attack angle and require
close attention to grain
direction. Metal spokeshaves
are like a small plane with
the handles at the sides. The
blade is secured bevel-down
and bedded at about 50 to
55 degrees, making it less
likely to run with the grain.
Shown from back to front here is a wood spokeshave made by the author’s
company in the 1990s with two Benchdog metal spokeshaves ahead of it.
This clearly shows the difference between the two types. The wood shave
has a very aggressive low angle cut, while the metal shaves have a blade
WKDWLVEHGGHGDWWRGHJUHHV7KHERWWRPVKDYHLVQRWæDWOLNHWKHWZR
above but rather cylindrical, making it great for curved surfaces such as
arches. Wood spokeshaves are generally favored by those working with
green wood such as chairmakers and wagon wheel makers. Metal shaves
are favored by furnituremakers who are often working with wild grain
patterns where the blade’s high attack angle tears less against the grain.
Here is a collection of metal spokeshaves made by gunsmith John Ober-
lies of Xenia, Ohio, in 1925. The author’s father met him when stationed at
QHDUE\5LJKW3DWWHUVRQ$LUåHOGGXULQJ::,,$VXSHUEFUDIWVPDQKHPDGH
the wood patterns for these shaves and had them cast in bronze. He used
WKHPLQVKDSLQJWKHVWRFNVRIWKHPDWFKULæHVKHPDGH7KH\DUH\HDUV
old and still going strong. The bottom shave is actually convex across and
from end to end for shaping depressions.
While spokeshaves are more
commonly pulled, they may
be pushed when necessary.
Each type of shave has strong
partisans.
25
 MODERN SHOP HAND TOOLS CONTINUED

Here, the author adjusts the blade on one of his wooden spokeshaves. Properly adjusted, the blade is cocked
such that it takes a heavier cut on one side and a very light cut on the other. This allows going from heavy materi-
DOUHPRYDOWRåQHZLWKDJRRGåQLVKLQWKHZDNH
Traditionally, wood spoke- KRPHWKHUHE\DɅHFWLQJWKH useful for an odd rounding job
shave blades had a square, thickness of the cut. or to refine a roundover made
tapered tang extending up- Most experienced users of by a router. Making a bullnose
ward at each end of the blade. wood or metal spokeshaves on the edge of a board with
This mated to like holes adjust the blade to take a a roundover bit that is a bit
in the wood stock and got heavier cut on one end (usual- under- or oversized for the
tighter as it was pushed (and ly the left) for quick material thickness of the board comes
often hammered lightly) into removal. Sliding the shave to mind. Today, a metal spoke-
place. Since the 19th century, steadily sideways as the work shave is the best bet for most
some wood spokeshaves have proceeds generates progres- woodworkers, unless they are
sported threaded tangs that sively finer shavings and a working with green wood.
were secured with a binding smooth finish.
post nut. A screw next to the Modern workers may not Learn more about Conover’s
through hole in the shave ad- need to use a drawknife but hand tool skills classes at
justed where the blade came may still find a spokeshave conoverworkshops.com.

Riven Wood — Perfect for Drawknives

Here’s a team making pegs for a timber frame shed. At left,
one worker uses a froe to rive billets from a log section. The
two others are seated at shave horses, hewing the billets
into pegs. Finished pegs are in the foreground. This is entirely FODPSRUXQFODPSZLWKKLVIRRWDQGZRUNORQJKRXUVLQFRPIRUW7KH\DUHHDV\WR
drawknife work. Since these pegs are riven, they are much
stronger than if they were cut with machines, because the
grain runs the length of the piece and not out the side.
Using drawknives and spokeshaves on wood cut in a table saw can present grain
direction challenges, because sawn grain often runs out the sides. If all the grain
åEHUVDUHQÖWSDUDOOHOWKHSLHFHLVZHDNHUWRR+LVWRULFDOO\SDUWVIRU:LQGVRU
chairs, wheel spokes and ladder rungs were riven. A section of a log was bucked
to the length of the desired spindle. It was then split into thirds or quarters with a
ZHGJH$IURHZDVWKHQHPSOR\HGWRVSOLWVTXDUHVIURPWKHVHORQJVHFWLRQVWKDW
ZHUHVOLJKWO\ODUJHUWKDQWKHVSLQGOHWREHKHZQ7KHUHVXOWVZHUHZRUNSLHFHVWKDW
KDGDOOWKHJUDLQåEHUVSDUDOOHOIRUWKHOHQJWKRIWKHSDUW7KLVPDGHGUDZNQLIHDQG
VSRNHVKDYHKHZLQJHDV\DQGWKHUHVXOWLQJVSLQGOHPXFKVWURQJHU,QIDFWPDQ\
VWDWHVKDGODZVUHTXLULQJDOOODGGHUUXQJVWREHULYHQIRUVDIHW\UHDVRQV
7UDGHVWKDWXVHGGUDZNQLYHVDQGVSRNHVKDYHVH[WHQVLYHO\VXFKDVZKHHO-
ZULJKWVDQGFKDLUPDNHUVHPSOR\HGVKDYHKRUVHVWRKROGWKHZRUNSLHFH7KLV
DQFLHQWYLVHEHQFKVHDWDOORZHGWKHXVHUWRSXWKLVEDFNLQWRWKHZRUNLQVWDQWO\
PDNHDQGZRUWKWKHHIIRUWLI:LQGVRUFKDLUVDUHLQ\RXUIXWXUH)RUPRVWDUWLVDQV
WRGD\ÖVYLVHVDUHVRJRRGWKDWDVKDYHKRUVHLVQRWZRUWKWKHæRRUVSDFH

26 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 learn
Woodturning is growing in popularity as
people of all stripes discover that it is
inexpensive and easy to get started in this

to practical, fun and creative craft. This

entertaining full-length DVD teaches you
everything you’ll need to know to start
turn woodturning safely and with more than
enough knowledge to have fun right from the
start. Instructors Ernie Conover and Kimberly
Like a McNeelan discus topics such as woodturning
tools and how to use them, spindle turning,

pro
³ÀȽÅÆÿº¿¸ʁIJ¿µº¿¸²¿µȱ¿ºÄ¹º¿¸À¿Ź¶
lathe, and more. Item 57753.

order online: woodworkersjournal.com/wj2333

or call 800-610-0883 (code WJ2333)
 By Chris Marshall
Wedges of cherry separated by thin wenge
laminations will showcase your cutlery display
on a countertop.
M
ost knife blocks included with a set of kitchen knives
these days are so homogeneous, they’re downright
humdrum. If you’d like one that takes up a bit less
VSDFHWKDQWKHXVXDOWKLFNEORFNDQGRɅHUVVRPHRSSRUWXQLW\IRU
customization, this one might fit the bill. It’s also fun to make!
Mine consists of seven wedges of cherry fanned upward in a
tilted stack, with 1/8"-thick layers of wenge in between. I like
the contrast of these chocolaty brown “pinstripes” outlining all
that cherry redness. But you could substitute any two contrast-
ing hardwoods you prefer, provided the one you choose for the
28
wedges can be found in 8/4 thickness. A 42" length of 8"-wide
VWRFNRULW´VHTXLYDOHQWZLOOEHVXɆFLHQW$SLHFHRIVWRFN
measuring 4" x 48" will do for the thin laminations and feet.
This knife block will hold a typical set of kitchen cutlery — an
8" chef knife, a serrated bread knife, a couple of smaller utility/
paring knives and four steak knives, plus a sharpening steel and
kitchen shears. If you have even more knives to store, you could
always add more wedges or widen the block to accommodate
three knives widthwise instead of two, as it’s laid out here. Feel
free to modify the design to suit your needs.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
$IWHUæDWWHQLQJERWKIDFHVRI\RXUVWRFNRQDMRLQWHUDQGSODQHUULSDQG 'UDZDFHQWHUOLQHDORQJRQHHGJHRIHDFKZHGJHEODQNWRGLYLGHLWLQWZR
FURVVFXWLWLQWRVHYHQZHGJHEODQNVWKDWDUH 5 â ZLGHDQG  â ORQJ$ 7KHQDGGDQDQJOHGOLQHIRUDWDSHUFXWRQHLWKHUVLGHRIWKHFHQWHUOLQH
VWRSEORFNRQWKHDXWKRUÖVPLWHUVDZVWDWLRQHQVXUHVDFFXUDF\KHUH 0DNHRQHHQGRIWKHZHGJHVKDSH  â ZLGHDQGWKHRWKHUHQGZLGH

Time for Some Tapering

The first order of business is to create the knife block’s seven
primary wedges. I ripped my 8/4 cherry into long 35 ¹ 8"-wide
strips, flattened one face of each strip on the jointer and then
ran them through the planer to create parallel faces. Try to
keep this stock nearly a full 2" thick. Then crosscut the work-
pieces into eight 101 ¹ 4"-long blanks (one becomes a test piece).
The reason why it’s good to keep these wedge blanks nice and
thick is that it will make them easier to clamp upright in your
tapering jig for the next step — turning them into wedges. Start
by marking a centerline along one edge of each blank, dividing
it lengthwise. Now mark two taper lines on either side of the
centerline that reduce the blanks from 13 ¹ 8" thick on one end to
1/2" at the other end. 5RFNOHUÖV6PDOO3DUWV7DSHU-LJRXWåWWHGZLWKDSDLURIORQJHUDOXPLQXP
+ROG'RZQ&ODPSVVHFXUHVWKHVHZHGJHEODQNVVDIHO\RQHGJHIRUPDN-
I used Rockler’s Small Parts Taper Jig (item 57550) retrofit-
LQJERWKWDSHUFXWVDWWKHEDQGVDZ
ted with a pair of Rockler’s long aluminum Hold Down Clamps
(item 35283) I had on hand to cut the blanks into wedge shapes. You’ll need to reset the taper jig to cut the second angled
The jig is small enough to accommodate blanks of this length, faces of the wedge blanks. I also reversed the direction of the
and the longer clamps pinned them down securely beside the blanks from the wide end oriented toward the back of my jig for
jig’s fence to keep my hands safely clear of my band saw blade. the first cut to the narrow end of the blanks for the second cut.
After adjusting the taper jig’s fence to the correct angle, and That arrangement enabled me to keep the majority of wedge
setting it so that my blade would cut just to the waste side of the shape positioned on top of the jig and securely clamped. When
OD\RXWOLQH,VOLFHGRQHIDFHRɅRIWKHWHVWEODQN
Make any adjustments, if needed, then cut one
IDFHRɅWKHRWKHUVHYHQEODQNVWRR$IWHUURXQG
one of these cuts, I flattened all the cut faces up to
the layout lines with several passes on the jointer.

$IWHUUHVDZLQJKLV
ZHQJHVWRFNLQWRRYHUO\
WKLFNEODQNVVHHLQVHW
WKHDXWKRUWDSHGWKHPDOOWR
DPHODPLQHFDUULHUERDUG
IRUåQDOVXUIDFHSODQLQJ
GRZQWRWKLFN7KH
VFUDSVDKHDGDQGEHKLQG
WKHZHQJHSLHFHVRQWKH
FDUULHUERDUGHQDEOHG
PLQRUSODQHUVQLSHWRRFFXU
RXWVLGHRIWKHZHQJHDUHD

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 29


Glue a pinstripe piece to one face of six wedges and two pinstripe pieces to both faces of what will
become the top wedge. The author assembled these glue-ups in stacks, alternating the wedge direc-
tions to make clamping easier. Separate the glue-ups with pieces of waxed paper in between.
Lay out the knife slot locations on the ends of the wenge laminations.
$ZKLWHåQHWLSSHGSDLQWPDUNHUDYDLODEOHDWFUDIWVWRUHVPDNHVWKHLU
locations easer to see on the dark lumber.
30
the second faces are cut, head back to
the jointer again to flatten them further
and remove any waste beyond the layout
lines.
Preparing Thin Laminations
You’ll need eight 1/8"-thick “pinstripe”
laminations for the knife block, and
here’s how I approached the task. I first
ripped and crosscut four 35 ¹ 8" x 101 ¹ 4"
workpieces to size from my 4/4 wenge
stock, then resawed them down the middle to produce eight
blanks. I had hoped that these workpieces could have yielded
three pinstripe layers per blank instead of just two, by making
two resaw cuts instead of one, but a couple of test cuts on a
scrap piece of wenge proved that cupping or bowing was going
to be an issue when the stock was resawn really thin. So I
abandoned that option in favor of one resaw cut per blank. Due
to the variable nature of wood, sometimes we have to waste a
little stock in order to come out ahead with the workpieces we
actually need to make, and this was one of those occasions.
To bring those overly thick laminations down to their final
1/8" dimension, I needed a way to send all eight through my
thickness planer safely. A length of 3/4" melamine shelf board
was the ticket. Using double-sided carpet tape, I adhered all the
wenge blanks to the melamine with their jointed faces down
(and sawn faces up) so the shelf could act as a carrier board
through the planer. It’s never safe to feed stock much thinner
than about 3/8" through a surface planer by itself, because at
some point it becomes too thin to remain flat. Pressure from
the feed rollers could cause the end of the
stock to bow upward, get caught in the planer’s
cutterhead and shatter — not what you want to
have happen! Several passes of the carrier board
through the planer reduced the wenge to 1/8" in
a safe and controlled fashion. Just don’t skimp on
the tape, and keep each planing pass relatively
OLJKWVNLPPLQJRɅPDWHULDOLQVKDOORZSDVVHV
Use a 3/8" or other narrow
straight bit in a router
table to plow the knife slot
grooves along the full length
of the wedges. Organize
\RXUFXWVIRUHIåFLHQF\
and be careful to avoid
climb-cutting situations
when widening the slots
(see inset).
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
 Wedges
(Side View)
13/8"

1 Exploded View
2

1 2
1
10 /4"
1

MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
1
/2"
1 Wedges (7) 1 â 8" x 35â 8" x 101 â 4"
3
3
Feet 2 Pinstripe Laminations (8) 1/8" x 35â 8" x 101 â 4"
(Front View) 3 Feet (2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 5"
/8" R
5

5"

Glue the wedges together, one joint at a time, to keep the parts from slid-
LQJRXWRIDOLJQPHQW7KHDXWKRUXVHGDVWUDSFODPSDEDUFODPSRXWåWWHG
with clamping blocks and two more clamps at the ends to tackle this task.
Once the wenge was pried free of the carrier board, I re-
moved all traces of the tape adhesive, then glued a “pinstripe”
layer to one face of six of the wedges. For the seventh wedge
that would become the top of the knife block, I glued a wenge
layer to both faces instead.
Once the block is glued together, a few of the laminations probably won’t
DOLJQSHUIHFWO\6XFKLVWKHQDWXUHRIDFRPSOH[JOXHXS6RæDWWHQERWK
faces and reduce the block’s width to 3 1 â 2" with a hand plane or a planer.
Laying Out and Routing Knife Slots
Except for a couple of larger slots that will be required to store
a sharpening steel (it’s a 7/16"-square slot for mine) and shears
(that one is 5/8" x 11 ¹ 8" for the one in my knife set), all the knife
slots need only be 1/8" tall to accommodate typical knife blade

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 31


Trim the ends of the block into two broad curves — one with an 18" radius and the oth- and extended the openings into the cherry wedges
er with an 8 1 â 4" radius. The author located the axis for drawing these curves by laying
WZRVWUDLJKWHGJHVRQWKHEODQNÖVWRSDQGERWWRPIDFHVDQGåQGLQJWKHLULQWHUVHFWLRQ
Trim off the waste ends at the band saw. If you use the same radii as
suggested in the top photo, the overall length of the knife block becomes
9 3 â 4ÔLWÖVVXIåFLHQWO\ORQJIRUPRVWNLWFKHQNQLYHVDQGVKDUSHQLQJVWHHOV of the slot and with the bit’s rotation, which is unsafe. That’s a
Smooth and fair the block’s curved ends with a large-diameter drum in a
spindle sander, if you have access to one. Otherwise, you can carry out
this step manually with a curved sanding block and coarse abrasives.
32
thicknesses. Their widths will vary, based on the spe-
cific knife styles you own. I routed all the knife slots
into the wenge layers only. For the sharpening steel
and shears slots, I centered them on the wenge layers
above and below evenly.
Lay out a slot for each knife on the ends of the
wedges. Determine a slot arrangement that maximizes space
and groups like knives together. Plan for two knives per pin-
stripe layer when possible, but keep in mind that the wenge that
remains in between and outside of the blade slots is the only
material that will glue one wedge to the next.
To rout the knife slots, I used a 3/8" straight bit, raised 1/8"
above the table. My router table fence guided each of these
groove cuts, with the slots extending the full length of the wedg-
es. Try to group your routing passes to take advantage of the
same fence setting when you can, even if that means routing a
couple of passes on one wedge, then jumping to another wedge
RXWRIVHTXHQFH,WZLOODGGHɆFLHQF\WRWKHZKROHSURFHVV$OVR
be mindful of the following safety rule: When you’re widening
a groove that requires more than one routing pass, set up your
cuts so that each pass after the first requires you to move the
fence backward, away from the bit. That way, the bit will continue
to remove material against its rotation on the side of the slot
closest to you (in front). If you find yourself needing to move
the fence toward the bit instead, you’ll be cutting the back side
climb cut situation, and it could cause the bit to grab the stock
and pull it through at great speed, potentially resulting in a loss
of your control over it.
Gluing up the Wedges, One Joint at a Time
:HGJHVKDSHGZRUNSLHFHVDUHGLɆFXOWWRJOXHWRJHWKHUEHFDXVH
it’s challenging to apply clamping force uniformly. Here’s how I
made the process easier for this situation. I used a strap clamp
around the entire assembly, and I glued only two wedges togeth-
er at a time. If you try to glue all seven at once, they’ll invariably
slide out of registration with one another when you tighten the
clamps, and the glue is still acting as a lubricant before it tacks
up. I also fashioned a couple of angled scrap blocks and taped
them to the jaw faces of a long F-style clamp. That way, the
clamp could apply lateral pressure across the wide end of the
EORFNZKHUHWKHVWUDSFODPSVHHPHGWRRɅHUWKHOHDVWHɅHFWLYH
pressure. I also found it helpful to install a couple more bar
clamps at the joints between the first/second and sixth/seventh
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
Plow a pair of 3/4"-wide, 5/8"-deep dadoes across the bottom face of the Mark both 3/4" x 3/4" x 5" foot blanks with 5/8" radii on their top corners.
block to house the feet. Locate these cuts 1 3 â 8" in from the block ends. Cut these curves to rough shape, then sand them to their layout marks. A
Clamp a stop block to the miter gauge fence to help control these cuts. stationary belt sander and table make this a simple, quick job.

wedges. These joints often wanted to slide out of alignment, but

the clamps prevented that from happening. If the faces of the
wedges/pinstripes are flat, it doesn’t take Herculean force to
create tight glue seams, but a few well-placed clamps sure helps.

Final Block Shaping

Once all the wedges are assembled and the glue is dry, flatten
the faces of your knife block and bring its overall width down to
31 ¹ 2", either by sending it through your thickness planer or with
a hand plane, as I did. The narrow and wide ends of the block
also probably will have small misalignments between the layers,
but no worries. Just use a flexible batten or trammel points to
draw two radii on the blank — one near the narrow end and one
at the wide end. I set the overall length of my knife block at 93 ¹ 4",
using radii of 81 ¹ 4DQGWRFUHDWHFRQFHQWULFFXUYHV7ULPRɅ
the excess ends of the block at the band saw, then smooth the Install the feet in the bottom dadoes with a single #8 x 11 â 2æDWKHDGZRRG
cuts with a curved sanding block or on a spindle sander with a screw per joint driven into a centered, countersunk pilot hole. Don’t glue
large-diameter spindle. I also eased all the sharp edges of the the feet into place, or you could inhibit cross-grain wood movement.
knife block with a 1/8" roundover bit in a handheld router. I
touched up these little details with some hand-sanding.

Adding Feet and a Renewable Finish

A couple of feet underneath your knife block will make it even
PRUHWLSUHVLVWDQWOLIWLWVOLJKWO\XSRɅWKHFRXQWHUDQGDGG
an attractive design element. Using a 3/4"-wide dado blade in
your table saw, raised to 5/8", plow a pair of dadoes across the
bottom wedge. I located these cuts 13 ¹ 8" in from each end of the
block. The feet are simply 5"-long “sticks” of 3/4" x 3/4" wenge,
with their top corners cut and sanded to 5/8" radii. Center the
feet lengthwise in the dadoes so they extend out evenly on
both sides. Attach each foot to the blank with a single #8 x 11 ¹ 2"
flathead wood screw driven into a countersunk pilot hole.
Any oil/varnish blend would be a good choice for finishing
this knife block because it will enhance the color of the wood
while also adding a degree of protection from cooking spatters
and spills. I wiped on three coats, allowing each coat to dry
thoroughly before reapplying. Once the finish cures, this attrac-
tive kitchen accent is ready to display your cutlery in style! :KLOHPDQ\ZRRGåQLVKHVFRXOGZRUNZHOOIRUWKLVNQLIHEORFNWKHDXWKRU
chose Rockler’s Sam Maloof Finish (see page 66). It’s a poly/oil blend that
Chris Marshall is senior editor of Woodworker’s Journal. simply wipes on to enhance the wood grain and provide some protection.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 33

 Adirondack
Upgrade
By Rob Johnstone

This redesign of an American classic

is much more comfortable to sit in
and, we think, even better looking.

R
elaxing outdoors is an American tradition. And while
that can mean a lot of things, sitting in an Adiron-
dack-style chair with a tasty beverage, a good book and
the Twins game on the radio is as sweet as it gets (to me). But
some folks, like my wife Mary, think Adirondack chairs are tor-
ture devices of the first order. Her small frame gets stuck way in
the back of the chair, with her legs dangling uncomfortably just
past the front edge of the seat. (She also thinks they are kinda
ugly.) Don’t sugarcoat it honey, just tell me how you feel ...
:LWKWKDWIHHGEDFNLQPLQGVHQLRUDUWGLUHFWRU-HɅ-DFREVRQ
and I decided to design and build an updated version that has
some of the best features of an Adirondack chair but addresses
VRPHRIWKHVKRUWFRPLQJV-HɅEXLOWWZRSURWRW\SHVEHIRUHKH
ZDVVDWLVILHGDQGWKLVFKDLULVWKHUHVXOWRIWKRVHHɅRUWV
The outside frames are built in a “Z” shape and are then
joined together with a series of cross braces. I chose African
teak from Rockler as the lumber for the frame and crosspieces.
It is excellent for outdoor projects as it resists rot very well
(but not quite as well as the Asian teak that most folks are
more familiar with). It machines well and, while there is a wide
variation of hues in the lumber I selected, when finished with an
outdoor oil I think it looks lovely.

34 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 Making templates from 3/8" or 1/2" MDF is a way to make building this
chair easier. Make the templates and lay them on a surface as shown at
left to see that the pieces are properly formed and align perfectly. Now
you can use them to trace their shapes onto the hardwood. Use the angles
on the templates to set the cuts on your miter saw. Fast and easy.

For the seat and back slats we used 1/2" pine lumber. I can but as it is not uncommon to build more than one of this type of
almost hear you thinking,“Pine is a terrible outdoor wood!” And chair at a time, they also will make that easier down the road.
that would be true if it was not painted — then it holds up great A set of templates can also help to minimize measuring errors,
in the great outdoors. The chair’s design also allows the slats to because many of the project parts can simply be traced to shape
drain, so no puddling of water, which also is a hedge against rot. using the templates.
Start by ripping the leg pieces to width. Then mark out the
How so, Domino? VKDSHVRIWKHGLɅHUHQWSLHFHVXVLQJWKHWHPSODWHV:LWKWKDW
I want to say a couple of things about the joinery of this chair. I done, step over to your miter saw and use the templates to set
happen to be a fan of Festool’s Domino loose-tenon system. At the angles that you need to cut. That’s another benefit of the
the same time, I understand that Domino machines are finan-
cially out of reach for a lot of woodworkers. Even so, I wanted
to try out Festool’s Dominoes made from sipo wood — a species
that resists rot. But if you want to build this chair and don’t
wish to use the Domino system, let me say that dowels would be
another perfect product for joining the legsets, too.
And while I also used Dominoes to join the cross braces
to the leg frames, you could do that with dowels or even with
screws driven in from the outside of the leg frames.

7HUULåF7HPSODWHV
I chose to make a complete set of MDF templates for every
piece of this chair’s framework (with the exception of the seat
and back slats). Not only does it speed up the building process,

For most of the chair’s

framework, the templates
are useful to trace the
shapes of the pieces and
as a means of setting miter
saw angles. But with the
inside shape of backrests
(pieces 3) and the shaped
section of the cross
braces (pieces 4 and 5), the
templates can also guide a
æXVKWULPELWWRVKDSHWKH
edges.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 35


Rockler’s taper jig forms the remaining angled edges of the legs as well
as the tapered sections of the chair’s arms. The taper jig’s fence ensures
that these cuts are uniform, safe and identical on matching parts.
templates. The last step in forming the legs is using a taper jig
to cut the long tapers, as shown in the photo above.
To form the backrests, use the template to lay out the pieces.
Cut the angles on the backrests with a miter saw, and then
use a band saw to cut away most of the waste close to the long
remaining line. Next, step to the router table chucked with
a flush-trim bit. Attach the template to a backrest blank with
double-sided tape and rout the shape. Cut the remaining section
(the back) of the top angle on the band saw. Now cut up blanks
for the seat cross braces. Attach the cross brace template to a
blank and template-rout the shape onto the cross brace. Repeat
this for all the cross brace pieces.
The author used the Festool Domino
loose-tenon system for much of this
chair’s joinery. Festool has sipo wood
Dominoes for exterior use. Dowels or
screws would be great alternatives to
Dominoes, if needed.
36
Doing the Dominoes
Now it’s time to chop the mortises for the Domino loose
tenons for the legs and backrest subassembly. Using two 8-mm
Dominoes at each joint, they will form a strong connection.
Machine the mortises and dry-fit the subassemblies together
with the Dominoes in place. When you are convinced that all is
well, move on to gluing and clamping the parts together. I used
Titebond III, as it is waterproof and has a reasonably long open
time. Clamping these pieces together is a bit of a puzzle, but
XVLQJWKHFXWRɅEORFNVRIZDVWHDQGGRXEOHVLGHGWDSLQJWKHP
WRWKHHGJHVRIWKHSLHFHV,ZDVDEOHWRJHWVXɆFLHQWFODPSLQJ
pressure to make it work. See the photo below.
While the glue was curing in the leg frame subassemblies, I
moved onto machining mortises into the ends of all of the cross
braces. It was straightforward work. Put two mortises in each
end of the 4"-wide cross braces and one mortise centered in the
Using the small, angled cut-off pieces as clamping cauls provides accu-
rate clamping pressure when assembling the side frame subassemblies.
Use double-sided tape to secure the cutoffs where you need them. Water-
proof Titebond III glue is a smart choice for this project.
seat cross braces. Wait on the headrest for now, as you’ll need
to locate the mortises at the top of the backrest first.
When the glue has cured on the leg subassemblies, it’s time
to sand them smooth. I worked up through the grits from 80- to
180-grit. I softened the edges of the legsets with 220-grit sand-
paper, just to remove the sharp edges.
Next up, I needed to bore holes through the seat cross braces
and upper back cross brace that allowed me to screw the seat
slats to the chair with the screws hidden from view. See the
Drawings on the next page for how these two-step holes
work. I used #8 x 13 ¹ 4" flathead zinc screws. They need
to extend 3/8" beyond the edge of the cross braces
to penetrate into and secure the seat slats. Take note
that the outer holes need to be bored deeper, because
the piece changes width, and the holes on the upper
back cross brace are just counterbored, as it is a much
narrower piece.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
 7
Armrest
(Top View)
2"
7
/8"

13/4"
6
Exploded View 3 11
10 3
12 10 135/8"

Lay out from this side

5
8 12
9
8
12
1 2
5
5

4
4 2 35/8"

MATERIAL LIST 11/2" 31/2"

TxWxL 1 215/16"
11/2"
1 Front Legs (2) 7/8" x 4" x 24"
2 Back Legs (2) 7/8" x 41 â 2" x 303 â 8" 3
/8"
3 Backrests (2) 7/8" x 41 â 2" x 38" 65/8" 61/4"
4 Cross Braces (2) 7/8" x 4" x 22"
5 Seat Cross Braces (4) 7/8" x 21 â 2" x 22"
6 Upper Back Cross Brace (1) 7/8" x 13 â 4" x 22" 41/16"
2"
7 Headrest (1) 7/8" x 6" x 22"
8 Wide Seat Slats (4) 1/2" x 33 â 4" x 18" 31/4"
9 Narrow Seat Slats (2) 1/2" x 3" x 18"
10 Wide Back Slats (4) 1/2" x 33â 4" x 26"
11 Narrow Back Slats (2) 1/2" x 3" x 26" 4"
12 Armrests (2) 7/8" x 5 x 203 â 8"
3
/8"
Lay out from this side
Lay out from this side

51/4"
9 8 8 4"

5
313/4"

Screw Depths
Lay out from this side

7
/8" 1" 11/8" 151/8"
(Front View)

5 1 2 3

/8"
7

10"
10"
11
/16"
18"

7" Crosspiece /16"

5
27/8"
Locations 5" 111/16"
(Side View)
17/8" 17/8" 41/2"

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 37

 Three of the seat cross braces (pieces 5) are located on
a straight line that extends squarely off the front edge of
the front leg to mount the seat slats (see left photo). One
“seat” cross brace and the upper back cross brace are
used to mount the back slats. The author used Dominoes
to secure the cross braces (see right photo), but they could
be attached with screws driven through the outside of the
leg frame.
Proceeding with the Seat Layout their back edges flush to the back edge of the backrest. See
With the leg subassemblies prepared, it’s now time to lay out the Drawings for their location, too. If you, like me, are using a
the mortise locations for the seat and seat back cross braces. I Domino machine to form the mortises for the seat cross braces,
confess that it was at this point where I decided I would rather you will need to use a scrap fence clamped in place to help you
just screw them in place, but I persevered with the Dominoes. cut the mortises accurately. See the photo, above right, for one
Three seat cross brac- example. Remember how I had you wait to cut the mortises
es are mounted on a into the headrest? It will make sense now as you need to get
line that runs squarely the plate of the Domino machine past the bend in the backrest.
back from the front Locate the mortises at the top of the backrest, then transfer the
edge of the front leg. locations onto the headrest and machine them.
For this location, see Now let’s back up a bit and address this process if you are
the Drawings. The not using a Domino machine. If you are using dowels, it would
cross braces that be pretty much the same but would be a bit easier to lay out. If
support the back slats you are using screws driven in from outside the leg frames, you
are mounted with should lay out the cross brace locations on the inside of the leg
frames and then drill a small-diameter pilot hole from the inside
of the legs outward. Those holes will give you the location
where you can drill the counterbore or the countersink (your
choice). If you choose to counterbore, you can make your own
plugs from African teak with a plug cutter. The screw holes will
almost disappear under the plugs.
However you choose to do it, when you are done it’s time to
dry-fit all the joinery. Be certain everything comes together cor-
rectly, because once you start the
glue-up for real, you are committed
and there is no going back.
I started the glue-up on my
workbench, applying glue into the
mortises and to the ends of the
cross braces. Once I had them all
in place, I put the other leg frame
on top of the assembly. This is
possible to do by yourself, but
another person helping makes it
Assembling the side frame subassemblies to the
YDULRXVFURVVEUDFHVLVQRWGLIåFXOWEXWDEXLOGHUFRXOG
EHQHåWIURPDQRWKHUVHWRIKDQGV([WHULRUVXLWDEOH
sipo Dominoes (see inset) were selected for this chair.

38 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

much easier. Still on the bench, I clamped across the headrest,
the wide cross brace between the front legs and the other wide
cross brace between the back legs. Then I carefully lifted it
from the bench and stood it up on the floor. In that position,
it was easy to add clamps where they were needed to close up
all the joints. Allow the glue to cure. Once the glue has dried,
re-sand the pieces starting at 150-grit and switching to 180-grit.
The chair frame now is ready for its finish.

Heading for Home

You are well on the path to completion, but there are a few more
tasks to get done. If you have not already done so, go ahead
and make the armrests. Carefully make the notches where they
join the backrest. Note that the forward edge of the notch is
angled to match the backrest. Lay out and form mortises on the
top of the front legs, transfer the locations to the armrests and
chop those mortises. Clamp the armrests in place and drill a
counterbored hole through the backrest. Unclamp and take the
DUPUHVWVRɅDSSO\JOXHWRWKHDSSURSULDWHVXUIDFHVDQGFODPS
and screw them in place.
Now it’s time to make the seat and back slats. Take note
that there are two widths (3" and 33 ¹ 4") for each set. I painted
my pine slats gray. You could make them from African teak or
some other hardwood, too. That’s a design option — you choose.
Whatever you decide to do, I suggest that you apply finish be-
fore attaching them. Same goes for the chair subassembly. I put
two coats of General Finishes Outdoor Oil on the teak before I
attached the slats, and I think it looked great.
When the paint and oil has cured, it’s time to complete the
project. Screw the slats in place. I started with the seat slats.
Space them evenly and drive the screws home. I tilted the chair
forward to make it easier to get to the screws on the bottom of
the cross braces. (Easier for this past-60-year-old, but still not
Mounting the seat and back slats to the chair frame subassembly is done
with screws driven in from behind or below. Note that there are two
different widths of seat and back slats. The widest slats go to the outside.
particularly easy.) I found it necessary to clamp each slat in
place before I could drive the screws. As I was using pine, I took
care not to overtighten and strip out the wood fibers. For the
back slats, I put a 3/4"-thick piece of wood across the seat slats
(see photo above) to ensure that I located them properly. The
back slats were easier (okay, easy) to install.
Now you are done! And you may be wondering if this design
is more comfortable for smaller framed people — the answer is
yes. While Mary was not available to try it out, we had a bunch
of folks “test sit” in it with positive results. Most wanted to take
it home and continue testing it over the summer. Hmmm ...
Rob Johnstone is publisher of Woodworker’s Journal.

+HUHDUHWZRRSWLRQDOWLSV7KHåUVWLVXVLQJ
HSR[\UHVLQWRVHDOWKHHQGJUDLQDWWKH
ERWWRPRIWKHOHJVULJKW,IWKHFKDLUZLOOEH
XVHGLQSODFHVZKHUHWKHOHJERWWRPVZLOO
JHWZHWWKHHSR[\ZLOOVWRSWKHZDWHUIURP
ZLFNLQJXSLQWRWKHZRRGåEHUV7KLVZLOO
KHOSWRNHHSWKHZRRGIURPEUHDNLQJGRZQ
RYHUWLPH)LYHPLQXWHHSR[\ZRUNVJUHDW
6HFRQG,ZDQWHGWRKLGHWKHVFUHZKROHV
RQWKHEDFNFURVVEUDFHV$WKLFNVWULS
SLQQDLOHGLQSODFHOHIWGLGWKHMRE

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 39

 Floating Bedside Shelf By Nick Brady
Alternating, curvy shelves sandwiching
a storage cubby make this an
attractive bedroom accent.
Installing its purpleheart trim
will test your skills!

S
ometimes the challenge of trying a new technique compels
whole project designs, and that’s what happened in a
roundabout sort of way with this Floating Bedside Shelf. I
wanted to see whether the edge V-groove router bits, shown on
page 48, can be used to wrap solid wood trim around the edge
of a curved shelf as well as a straight one. The short answer is
yes, they can! Quite elegantly, actually, as you can see in the
curves of the purpleheart shown above. But here’s the kicker:
doing that will involve making three very precise templates to
guide these bits around those curves, primarily so the purple-
heart hugs the edges of the plywood shelves seamlessly.
And if you’re willing to test your template-making skills, this
DOWHUQDWLQJGRXEOHVKHOISURMHFWLVZHOOZRUWKWKHHɅRUW,WV
small cubby in between the shelves can stow a wallet, jewelry or
other small valuables behind the front door. I outfitted the proj-
ect with a strip of low-cost LED rope lighting to cast a soft glow

40 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 1
3

After cutting the four long and short side trim pieces to length, miter-cut
Your success with attaching wide trim to the edges of these curved one of their ends to 45 degrees.
shelves using edge V-groove router bits will depend on three templates:
One for the inside edge of the assembled trim (#1), one for the outer edge
of the shelf cores (#2) and one for the outer perimeter of the trim (#3).
under each shelf. Mine also contains a USB outlet for charging
smart devices. The project mounts to a wall stud with screws
driven through the cubby’s back panel.
If you like the look of the project but aren’t yet up to the
challenge of tricky template-making (or investing in the edge
V-groove router bit set), you could simply make the plywood
shelf cores larger and wrap their edges with thin veneer edge
tape. But that won’t be as durable as solid wood in the long run,
QRUZLOOLWJLYHWKHVDPHHɅHFWDVWKLVFRQWUDVWLQJZLGHSXUSOH-
heart will. So, why not test your skills and build it just as I have!
One end of the two long front trim pieces is miter-cut to 29.5 degrees.
Here, the author miter-cuts their other ends to 60.5 degrees.
Making Subassemblies of Trim Blanks
Let’s get down to business by assembling pieces of long and application, reinforcement isn’t crucial. Glued miter joints will
short side trim to the front trim pieces. I ripped my purpleheart be strong enough for machining, and once the trim wraps the
stock to 4" wide, then headed to my miter saw to crosscut the shelves, joint strength will come from the routed V-groove joints
pieces to rough length (see the Material List on page 43). Now, between the plywood and purpleheart anyway. Get ready for
study the Trim Subassembly Drawing for miter-cutting these some challenges gluing the funky mitered ends together, howev-
trim pieces correctly. Why miter them, you ask? Well, mitering er. I used both wood screw clamps and bar clamps for that job.
will eliminate nearly all of the end grain that would take finish The wood screw clamps actually became attachment points for
more darkly than the side grain will. You’ll also help to blend the my bar clamps. Kind of unusual, sure, but it worked! When the
face grain more uniformly all around the shelves, which will look FODPSVFRPHRɅVDQGRUSODQHWKHMRLQWVIOXVK
much better when viewing the shelf trim from above.
Notice how the short and long side trim pieces are mitered at
45 degrees on one end. The long front trim piece is miter-cut
at 29.5 degrees on one end but 60.5 degrees on the other end.
I could make that last cut happen because my Makita miter saw
swivels to 60.5 degrees. Some saws do. If yours doesn’t, you
PLJKWKDYHWRWDFNOHWKDWFXWLQDGLɅHUHQWZD\ZLWKDQRWKHUVDZ
instead.
Glue and clamp the three trim pieces for each subassem-
bly together. You can see in the photo at right that these are
simply glued butt joints. Any reinforcement across the joints
(dowels, floating tenons, biscuits) would become exposed when
the trim is finally cut to width. But no worries, because in this

You’ll have to use some ingenuity to glue the three pieces of trim together
to form a subassembly, given their odd angles. One approach is to use
several wood screw clamps as anchor points for bar clamps to pull these
glued miter joints together. In the inset photo, the author abutted the verti-
cal wood screw clamp against its neighbor to help prevent the long front
trim piece from sliding out of registration when closing the miter joint.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 41

 Enlarge the gridded drawing on the next
SDJHWRFUHDWHWKHåUVWRIWKUHHWHPSODWHV
ÔWKLVRQHIRUURXWLQJWKHLQVLGHHGJHRI
WKHWULPVXEDVVHPEOLHV&XWDQGVDQGLWV
LQQHUHGJHVPRRWKDQGIDLU/HDYLQJWKH
HQGVRILWVØOHJVÙORQJHUWKDQQHFHVVDU\
ZLOOHQDEOHWKHHGJH9JURRYHURXWHUELW
WRVWDUWDQGVWRSFXWWLQJEH\RQGWKHWULP
ZRUNSLHFHV

0DNLQJ7HPSODWH,QQHU7ULP(GJHV
Draw a full-size version of the Shelf Template on the next page
on a large piece of 1/2" MDF or other sheet material. Make
sure your template workpiece is at least a couple inches wider
on both sides than the gridded shape. You also want the “legs”
of the template on either side of the shelf shape to be 2" longer
than necessary (you can see this extra template length in the
bottom right photo). Use a flexible batten or large French
curves to draw a smooth layout line for this template, centering
it on the template material. The line represents the inside edge
of the purpleheart trim. I used a jigsaw to cut out the center
waste of the template, sawing just inside my layout line. Then
I took the template over to my benchtop oscillating spindle sand-
er to smooth and fair its sawn edge. Go the extra yard here to
make sure this inside edge of the template is perfectly smooth
and even by working it further with some careful hand sanding.
Mark the 2" template leg extensions on their inside edges so
you can line the template up accurately on your glued-up trim
subassemblies.
The next step will depend on your confidence at the band saw.
I attached the template to the first trim subassembly with short
pieces of double-sided tape, took it to the band saw, and sawed
away the inner purpleheart waste. I was careful when attaching
the template that I would be removing about the same amount
of trim material all the way around. If you fear you might acci-
dentally cut into the template doing it this way, then just trace
the template’s inner profile onto the trim subassemblies instead
and band-saw the waste away. There’s no risk of damaging your
template this way, so play it safe if you wish.
)RUPLQJWKH5RXWHG3URåOHRQWKH,QQHU7ULP(GJHV
With the template attached to the first trim subassembly, install
the concave edge V-groove bit (the one that looks like a bird’s
mouth; see bottom left inset photo, next page) in your router
table. With the router unplugged, set the motor to a medium/
high speed and adjust the bit’s height so the midpoint of the
bird’s mouth profile will be centered on the thickness of the
trim material. The router bit’s top pilot bearing needs to be able
to roll along the cut edge of the template, too. Then start the
router and, beginning with the bit’s bearing on the template’s
right “leg,” feed the template and trim subassembly clockwise
around the bit to remove the rest of the inner waste.

0RXQWWHPSODWHWRHDFKWULPVXEDVVHPEO\ZLWKGRXEOHVLGHGWDSH 8VHDEDQGVDZRUMLJVDZWRFXWDZD\WKHH[FHVVWULPIURPLQVLGHWKHVXE
$GMXVWWKHWHPSODWHDV\RXGRWKLVVRDQHYHQDPRXQWRIPDWHULDOZLOOEH DVVHPEO\%HFDUHIXOQRWWRFXWWKHWHPSODWHLQWKHSURFHVV1RWLFHKHUH
UHPRYHGIURPWKHLQVLGHHGJHRIWKHSXUSOHKHDUWWULP WKDWWKHWHPSODWHRYHUKDQJVWKHæDWHQGVRIWKHVLGHWULPSLHFHVE\

42 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 Exploded View
1

Trim Subassembly 60.5°

(Top View)

29.5°
4
45° 6
141/2"
5
7
45° 2 8
9 /4"
1

3 5
191/2" 7 6

Shelf Template
(Top View) Each square = 1" 4
1

2
1
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
1 Shelves (2) 3/4" x 111 â 4" x 22"
2 Long Side Trim (2) 3/4" x 4" x 141 â 2"
3 Short Side Trim (2) 3/4" x 4" x 91 â 4"
You can see in the right photo below that this bit reforms the
4 Long Front Trim (2) 3/4" x 4" x 273â 4"
inner edge of the purpleheart trim into a sharp chisel point.
5 Cubby Sides (2) 3/4" x 53 â 4" x 6"
Detach the template from the first trim subassembly carefully,
then mount the template to the second trim subassembly with 6 Cubby Top and Bottom (2) 3/4" x 41â 4" x 73â 4"
more double-sided tape, and repeat the routing process. 7 Cubby Top and Bottom Trim (2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 73â 4"
8 Cubby Door (1) 3/4" x 81â 2" x 57â 8"
Making Template #2: Outer Edge of Shelves 9 Cubby Back (1) 3/4" x 6" x 73â 4"
The good news about doing a really careful job of making the
first template is that it will improve your
odds for laying out the second template
accurately. This one, also made of 1/2"

Install the concave-shaped edge V-groove bit in the router table, and ,I\RXZRUNFDUHIXOO\WRPDNHWKHLQVLGHSURåOHRIWHPSODWHDVVPRRWK
adjust it so the chisel-pointed cut it makes will be centered on the trim as possible, it will transfer no irregularities to the trim subassembly
thickness. Start the cut with the bit clear of the trim (see inset). during routing. A smooth, fair edge is what you want here.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 43

 3UHSDUHWHPSODWHE\FDUHIXOO\WUDFLQJWKHERWWRPLQVLGHHGJHRIWKHURXWHGSURåOHRQWKHWULPVXEDVVHPEO\RQWRDVKHHWRISDQHOVWRFN
+HUHDJDLQOHDYHRIH[WUDPDWHULDORQWKHWHPSODWHÖVERWWRPHGJH&XWLWWRURXJKVKDSHVDZLQJRXWVLGHWKHOD\RXWOLQHLQVHW
MDF or plywood, will form the outer routed profile of the shelf
cores to mate with the chisel-pointed profile on the purpleheart
trim. Here’s how to lay it out. Start with a piece of oversized
MDF, and mark it 2" in from one long edge to serve as an
extension of the template past the shelf during routing. Now lay
one of the trim subassemblies on it so the bottom square ends
of the side trim pieces intersect your 2" layout marks (see left
photo above). Take a very sharp pencil or a fine-leaded me-
chanical pencil and trace around the bottom edge of the trim’s
routed profile, right where it touches the template surface. This
line represents the outer perimeter of what will be the plywood
shelf. It’s SUPER important to trace this layout line accurately.
Grab your jigsaw and cut just outside of this layout line (only
the portion inside the layout line is the template this time). Very
carefully, sand the template up to the layout line. If you sand the
line away, the fit between the plywood and the trim might be
too loose and create a gap on the shelf. If you
don’t sand enough, the trim will fit too tightly around the ply-
wood and could break at the mitered joints when it’s installed.
Take your time and be fussy with this sanding.
Fitting the Routed Shelf Edge to the Trim
Cut two plywood panels for the shelves, and then cut one or
two more that you can use as test pieces. Why? Because at this
moment, we still don’t know if the second template will produce
shelf cores that fit the trim correctly. So, there’s some exper-
imentation and refinement ahead of us! It’s the nature of the
beast ... don’t ask me how I know.
Get one of your plywood test pieces, and trace the shelf
template onto it. Band-saw the test shelf about 1/16" outside the
layout line. Now chuck the convex V-groove bit (with the pointed
center tips) in your router table. Adjust its height so the bit’s
tips line up with the inside routed edge of the trim subassem-
$IWHUWULPPLQJWKHWZRVKHOISDQHOVDQGDFRXSOHRIVSDUHVWR
rough shape using template #2 as a tracing guide, secure one of
WKHWHVWVKHOYHVWRWKHWHPSODWHZLWKGRXEOHVLGHGWDSHWRSUHSDUH
IRUURXWLQJ,QVWDOOWKHFRQYH[SRLQWHGHGJH9JURRYHELWLQWKH
URXWHUWDEOHDQGDGMXVWLWVKHLJKWXQWLOWKHELWÖVFXWWLQJWLSVDOLJQ
ZLWKWKHSRLQWHGHGJHRIWKHLQVLGHSURåOHRQWKHWULPVXEDV
VHPEOLHVVHHPLGGOHLQVHW5RXWWKHFRQFDYHSURåOHDURXQGWKH
RXWHUHGJHRIWKHWHVWVKHOIOHIWSKRWR6WDUWDQGHQGWKHVHFXWV
ZLWKWKHELWLQWKHWHPSODWHÖVH[WHQGHGDUHDEH\RQGWKHVKHOI
ZRUNSLHFHV

44 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 Glue and clamp a trim subassembly piece to
a shelf core. It may take some trial and error
UHåQLQJWKHVKDSHRIWHPSODWHVRWKHWULP
DQGSO\ZRRGJRWRJHWKHUZHOODQGZLWKRXW
JDSVEXWWKHH[WUDHIIRUWZLOOSD\RIIZLWKD
seamless joint here.

blies. Once that’s dialed in, mount template #2 to your

plywood test shelf with double-sided tape so the shelf’s
contoured edge overhangs the template’s edge evenly.
Make sure to also align the back “flat” edge of the
shelf with the template’s 2" overhang marks. Start the
router, and rout all the way around the shelf to reduce
its size and form the concave, mirror image to the
trim’s convex chisel-edge profile.
5HPRYHWKHWHPSODWHIURPWKHVKHOIDQGFOHDQRɅ
any whiskers left by the router bit along the routed
edge. Now very carefully and gently, try to slide one of the trim shelf. Remember to tighten those clamps carefully so as not to
subassemblies into place on the test shelf. Don’t force the parts over-stress the miter joints.
together, or you could break the miter joints. Do the routed
joints fit together? Are there any gaps, or is the fit too tight? Making Template #3: Outer Perimeter of Trim
Either way, if the shelf and trim don’t come together well, it’s It’s time to bring the overly-wide purpleheart trim down to its
time to make little adjustments to the shelf template’s perime- 11 ¹ 4" final width, and we’ll do that with a third template. To make
ter and rout another test shelf. Keep working at the template’s it, I first created a simple scribing jig for my pencil that you can
shape until it produces a shelf that fits the trim. see in the bottom left photo. It’s just a scrap with a flat edge
My cherry plywood was slightly thinner than my purpleheart that rides against the shelf template to trace a layout line 11 ¹ 4"
trim, so I readjusted the bit height so the best face of each shelf larger than the shelf onto a piece of MDF. Create this template
aligns flush with the best face of each trim subassembly. Keep with the same 2" extension as the other two templates. Cut the
in mind that if you need to do the same thing, these shelves will template out, sand its outer edge smooth and use it to trace the
face in opposite directions on the final project. Go ahead and outer perimeter layout line onto both trim subassemblies. Cut
rout your actual shelves. Then glue and clamp the trim to each them to shape at the band saw or with a jigsaw.

7HPSODWHZKLFKIRUPVWKHRXWHUSHULP- The author used short pieces of

HWHURIWKHVKHOIWULPLVDQHQODUJHGFRS\ painter’s tape on the trim to help
RIWHPSODWH7KHDXWKRUGUHZLWWRVKDSH DOLJQWHPSODWHRYHULWHYHQO\
XVLQJDVFUDSVFULELQJMLJWRSLQVHWZLWK EHIRUHWUDFLQJWKHWHPSODWH
DFRXQWHUVXQNKROHWRåWKLVSHQFLO7KHMLJ VKDSHRQWRLW2QFHKHYHULåHG
IROORZVWKHHGJHRIWKHVHFRQGWHPSODWH that the width of the trim would
to draw a line 11 â 4EH\RQGLW7HPSODWH be 11 â 4DVPDUNHGKHFXWDZD\
VKRXOGDOVRKDYHDÙRYHUKDQJ$OLJQLW the outer waste at the band saw
ZLWKWKHUHIHUHQFHRQWHPSODWHEHIRUH LQVHW
VFULELQJWKHQHZVKDSHERWWRPLQVHW

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 45

 Rout away the excess material from
the perimeter of the trim to reduce
LWWRåQDOZLGWK7KHDXWKRUVWURQJO\
UHFRPPHQGVXVLQJDGRXEOHEHDULQJ
æXVKWULPELWZLWKDVKHDUFXWWLQJ
Grain Direction Precautions
Refining the outer edge of the trim with template #3 is our
next step, but it’s a bit tricky because the grain direction of the
purpleheart comes into play. Flush-trimming around the corners
could mean you’ll be routing with the grain and then inadver-
tently against the grain from one piece to the next, depending
on your stock arrangement. So to help mitigate problems, I
installed a double-bearing flush-trim bit with a shear-cutting
angle (Rockler #27867). After sticking each trim subassembly to
the template, I started the routing process with the template on
top, riding against the bit’s top bearing. But, if the purpleheart
started to chip, or the bit’s cutting action began to feel choppy,
I stopped the routing pass, flipped the template over, and raised
the bit to use its bottom bearing against the template instead.
That way, I could reverse my feed direction and rout with the
grain again. Your template-routing experience will help you as-
7ULPDZD\WKHH[FHVVZLGWKIURPWKHæDWHGJHRIHDFKVKHOI2QHHDV\
ZD\WRGRWKLVLVWRVHWWKHVKHOIDWRSDODUJHUæDWHGJHGVFUDSDQGXVHLWV
DQJOHVHHLQVHWIRUWKLVRSHUDWLRQ
,WHQDEOHV\RXWRæLSWKHWHPSODWH
RYHULIQHHGHGDQGUHYHUVH\RXUIHHG
GLUHFWLRQZLWKWKHWHPSODWHIROORZLQJ
WKHELWÖVERWWRPEHDULQJWRDYRLG
URXWLQJDJDLQVWWKHJUDLQ
sess how best to flush-trim these edges in order to rout with the
grain direction as much as possible. But I definitely recommend
preemptively using the same shear-cutting bit as I did, or one
similar to it. It really helped here!
Finishing Up the Shelves
Once the trim was flush-cut to final width, it was time to trim
the shelves to their final front-to-back width of 121 ¹ 4" at the
widest point. I did this by mounting each shelf temporarily to a
flat-edged panel of MDF that was wider than the shelf. That way,
the panel’s flat edge could follow my table saw’s rip fence while
,WULPPHGWKHZDVWHRɅRIWKHEDFNIODWHGJHRIERWKVKHOYHV
(see bottom photo).
Wrap up work on the shelves by hand-planing or scraping and
sanding the trim flush with the plywood cores. Be careful to not
overdo it and cut through the plywood’s thin face veneer. And
when you’re satisfied with your shelves, you can also be happy
that you’ve completed the hardest part of this project!
Building the Middle Cubby
I made the cubby so that all the visible parts, when viewed from
in front, would be purpleheart. So, the cubby’s sides and door
are solid purpleheart. But the top and bottom panels are maple
with a 3/4" x 3/4” strip of purpleheart glued to their front edges
because those components aren’t as obvious. That way, when
the cubby’s door is opened, the carcass looks like purpleheart
all the way around.
Use a wide straight bit in the router table or a dado blade in
your table saw to plow 3/8"-deep x 3/4"-wide rabbets along the
top, bottom and back edges of the side panels so they wrap over
the ends of the top and bottom panels.
I decided to install the door with a single Mini Blum® 26 mm
Frameless Overlay Hinge (Rockler #38385) that snaps closed,
because this door is so tiny as to not need two hinges. Follow
the instructions that come with the hinge to bore a stopped hole
in the back of the door for the hinge’s cup. Dry-assemble the
cubby with clamps so you can install the carcass-side component
HGJHRSSRVLWHWKHFXWDVDEHDULQJHGJHDJDLQVWWKHULSIHQFH of the hinge on the cubby’s side panel.

46 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

Rout 3/8"-deep x 3/4"-wide rabbets along the top, bottom and back edges
of the cubby’s side panels. The author marked the front edges of these
parts with pieces of tape to avoid confusion when carrying out this step.
Bore a stopped hole into the back face of the cubby door with a Forstner
bit in the drill press. The instructions that come with the Mini Blum hinge
will help you lay out the exact location of this hole for the hinge cup.
Tricking Out the Project and Installing It
There are several doodads you can choose to add to your
project as I have to make it even more useful, and now is the
right time to consider them. I like the white Tot-Lok Mecha-
nism (Rockler #63164, #63172), because it enables a door to be
unlocked with a magnetic key from the outside. So, I mounted
this hardware to the back of the door and to the cubby side
opposite the hinge. I also thought LED lighting might be a nice
touch. I picked up an inexpensive 6-ft LED rope light, and I
routed a channel in the cubby top, bottom and back to feed the
LED through from inside the cubby to the bottom faces of the
shelves. If you’d like USB ports in the cubby too, you’ll need to
chisel an opening for that hardware in the cubby side as I have.
All of this work happens before gluing the cubby together.
When I was finally ready to assemble everything, I glued the
cubby top and back panels to the side panels first, but I left the
bottom panel unglued so I could remove it for installing the
cubby to the top shelf. When this glue-up dried, I centered the
cubby’s top on the bottom face of the top shelf with the back of
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
Glue the cubby’s top and back panels to the side panels, but leave the
bottom panel unglued at this point. Here, it’s simply helping to hold the
assembly square while it’s clamped together.
Here’s a view through the bottom of the cubby looking at its top and the
underside of the top shelf. The Blum hinge and the Tot-Lok Mechanism are
installed. Recesses have been created for LED lighting and a USB port.
the cubby flush with the back edge of the shelf. I fastened the
cubby to the top shelf with four #8 x 11 ¹ 2" screws driven into
countersunk pilot holes. Then I could glue the cubby’s bottom
panel into place and install the bottom shelf to it (facing the
opposite direction to the top shelf) when the glue dried. To
verify the alignment of the two shelves before attaching the
second one, stand the project on a workbench and use a couple
of combination squares held against the ends of the shelves to
see that their ends align. I made a few adjustments, then drove
four screws up through the bottom shelf into the cubby bottom
to attach the parts.
At this point, I went ahead and applied a couple of coats of
poly to the whole project. After it cured, I installed the LEDs
and USB hardware, then hung the shelf on the wall near an out-
let to power everything up. A few long screws driven through the
cubby’s back and into a wall stud will provide plenty of structural
support to secure this project at the height you need it.
Nick Brady is a Rockler project builder.
47
NEW DEPARTMENT
SIMPLIFYING BIT SETUPS
Edge V-Groove Bits
By WJ Staff
Form solid-wood edging for plywood
that’s tougher than veneer tape and
as subtle or bold as you wish.
W
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
To watch a video about
VIDEO routing edge V-groove
joints, visit woodworkersjournal.com
and click on “More on the Web”
under the Magazine tab.
48
ith the exception of
perhaps Baltic birch
plywood, no other
mass-produced plywood (or
other composite sheet materi-
al for that matter) looks good
with exposed edges. Those
mismatched plys, little voids
and blemishes are distracting.
So, we typically try to hide the
edges of plywood as elegantly
and seamlessly as possible.
The usual choice for that
task is wood veneer edge tape
with a pre-applied adhesive
backing. When the veneer
species of the tape matches
the face veneer of the plywood
well, it’s thin enough to hide
the edge plys without also
looking “applied,” and it
PDNHVIRUDFRQYLQFLQJEOXɅ
But the thinness of the veneer
and the limited strength of
the adhesive often causes the
YHQHHUWRHYHQWXDOO\SHHORɅ
on its own or become easily
damaged through normal wear
and tear of the exposed edge.
The other option is to glue
thicker 1/8" or 1/4" strips
of solid wood, often called
banding, to the plywood edge
instead. This adds more abra-
sion resistance and durability,
but the wood must be glued
and clamped carefully so it
aligns with the faces of the
plywood. Or it can be applied
overly wide, then trimmed
flush afterward. The success
of edge banding depends on
careful clamping. Any gaps
between the plywood and the
banding looks amateurish and
slapdash.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
Rockler Edge
V-Groove Router
Bits (#40362,
#40368)
Edge V-groove bits, such as
those shown here from Rock-
ler, can give you a leg up on
both of the other edge-cover-
ing options. The “convex” bit,
shown at left in the inset and
opening photos, above, cuts a
V-shaped recess into the edge
of the plywood that intersects
with the top and bottom face
veneers of the sheet.
A mating “concave” bit
(right-hand bit in both photos)
reshapes the edge of solid
lumber into a protruding
beveled point that fits into the
plywood recess.
Alternately, you could use
the convex bit to mill a recess
into the solid lumber and the
concave bit to reshape the ply-
wood into the beveled point,
as shown in the inset photo
example, above. This is a less
common approach.
V-Groove Advantages
This routed intersection of
plywood and solid wood has
a number of advantages. For
one, the recess and beveled
point are self-aligning. Unlike
conventional shop-made
edge banding, which must be
clamped at close intervals
along the joint to ensure that
the banding stays on track,
solid-wood connections made
 1 2

5LSVWULSVRIVROLGZRRGIRUVKHOIHGJLQJWKDWDUHLQLWLDOO\DWOHDVW â 2" or Install the concave V-groove bit in a router table, and adjust its height
ZLGHUIRUVDIHW\1DUURZHUPDWHULDOZLOOEHKDUGHUWRFRQWURODFFXUDWHO\ until both angled edges of the bit are able to touch the solid-wood edging
GXULQJURXWLQJDQGSODFHV\RXUKDQGVWRRFORVHWRWKHFXWWHUV stock at the same time. This ensures the bit is centered on the stock.

3 4

$GMXVWWKHURXWHUWDEOHIHQFHVRWKHULPRIWKHELWÖVSLORWEHDULQJLVæXVK 5RXWWKHFRQYH[SURåOHLQWRRQHHGJHRIWKHVROLGZRRGHGJLQJPDWHULDO
with the fence facings. Lock down the fence. Then close up the fence with the router set to moderate/high speed. Use a featherboard, if possi-
facings to minimize gaps on either side of the bit. EOHWRNHHSWKHZRUNSLHFHSUHVVHGåUPO\DJDLQVWWKHIHQFH

5 6

Now replace the concave bit with the convex bit in the router table, and 'UDZDFHQWHUHGUHIHUHQFHPDUNRQWKHHGJHRIWKHSO\ZRRGXVLQJDVKDUS
DOLJQWKHIHQFHVRWKHULPRIWKHELWÖVSLORWEHDULQJLVæXVKZLWKWKHIHQFH SHQFLOSRLQWRUDåQHOHDGHGPHFKDQLFDOSHQFLO&KHFNIRUFHQWHUHGQHVV
facings. Lock the fence in place. E\UHIHUHQFLQJRIIRIERWKIDFHVRIWKHSO\ZRRGZLWKWKHHQGRIDVTXDUH
with these bits require far few- Another benefit to the “V” veneer laid crossways. So,
er clamps. The banding has no configuration is that it con- on any given edge of a sheet,
way to slip out of registration tributes more surface area for the pattern will be long/edge
with the plywood — it needs glue. Plywood typically con- grain for one layer, short/
only to be pressed into place. sists of built-up layers of thick end grain the next. The end

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 49

 SIMPLIFYING BIT SETUPS
7 8
Raise or lower the convex bit as needed until the tip of the cutter aligns
precisely with the layout mark you made on the plywood. Be sure the bot-
WRPIDFHRIWKHSO\ZRRGLVSUHVVHGåUPO\GRZQDJDLQVWWKHURXWHUWDEOH
9 see the joint from the side, it
Glue and clamp the solid-wood edging piece in place on the plywood.
Rockler’s Mini Deluxe Panel clamps, shown here, make that easy. Then
trim off as much excess edging as you prefer to complete the installation.
grain layers can soak up a lot
of glue. So, the more surface
area the edge joint provides,
the stronger the connection
of the banding to the core
material will be. A V-shaped
HGJHRɅHUVDODUJHUJOXLQJ
area than a flat edge will.
A third asset of this router
bit solution is that you have a
number of options for how the
final edge treatment looks. If
you study the three banding
options shown in the open-
ing photo, the top example
illustrates the solid-wood edge
trimmed flush to the face
veneers. If you were unable to
50
CONTINUED
Install a pair of featherboards on the router table fence, if possible, to
keep the plywood from lifting up during routing. Then mill its edge in one
smooth, steady pass with the router set to moderate/high speed.
would be hard to tell that the
plywood isn’t actually solid
lumber; the banding need not
add any protrusion past the
plywood’s top and bottom
faces if you don’t want it to.
The center example in the
opening photo shows the
solid-wood edging trimmed
to within 1/4" of the plywood.
This way, it looks similar to
WKHHɅHFWRIDSSO\LQJ
edge banding to the plywood
but with the added benefit of
a much thicker core and the
self-aligning V-groove.
Or, perhaps you want to
have the edging of a plywood
shelf make a bolder statement,
such as in the “Bedside Shelf
Project” on page 40 of this
issue. Easily done: just choose
a wood species that contrasts
with the plywood veneer for
DPRUHGUDPDWLFHɅHFWDQG
make the edge banding from
that instead. The wider and
stronger the color or pattern,
the more the custom edging
will call attention to itself.
Router Table Use
Many router bits can be used
safely either in a handheld
router or in a router table.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
However, these edge V-groove
bits require their pilot bear-
ings registered in line with a
fence or allowed to follow the
edge of a template.
If you’re using the bit set
to create banding for flat
shelving, install them in a
router table equipped with a
fence and a mid- to full-size
router. The edges/ends of a
plywood shelf will have plenty
of bearing surface on either
side of the bit during routing.
Align the rim of the pilot bear-
ings carefully so they’re flush
with the fence facings. That
way, when the bits remove all
but a pair of thin corners or a
centered knife edge of the ply-
wood or solid wood, the fence
will still adequately support
the material on the outfeed
side of the cut.
The only other finesse these
bits require during setup is
that the center points of their
cutting profiles be centered
on the material being routed.
%XWLW´VQRWGLɆFXOWLI\RXXVH
photos 2, 6 and 7 as guides.
Once you experience the
benefits of edge V-groove bits,
rolls of flimsy edge tape will
likely be a thing of the past.
THE LUMBERYARD
Black Cherry: American Treasure
The folks at Lumber Capital Log Yard have agreed
to help us teach about lumber — from stump to
furniture — starting with a perennial favorite.
“Cherry Modern Room Divider”
April 2023 Issue
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video of sawing a cherry log into lumber,
VIDEO please visit woodworkersjournal.com and
click on “More on the Web” under the Magazine tab.
A
t Lumber Capital Log
Yard in Cogan Station,
Pennsylvania, we are
fortunate to be located near
forests containing some of the
most impressive black cherry
trees imaginable. Special care
must be taken when harvest-
ing this mature growth, as
the surrounding young trees
can be damaged easily. One
method is to top the tree prior
to felling, which will minimize
residual damage as well as
prevent cracks in the sawn
logs.
Of the various species we
regularly mill, black cherry is
a standout. Often referred to
as American cherry, Prunus
serotina grows to a height of
50 to 100 ft with a diameter of
Lumber Capital Log Yard is a family-run sawmill business
owned by Ken and Teri Breon. Teri (center in photo) and
daughters Emerald and Jade are partners in the milling
business selling lumber and lumber byproducts. Their goal
is to produce zero waste. Ken runs the logging company
and assists at the log yard. Their son Judah, Grandpa
Larry and Roxy, the shepherd mix, all play a part, too.
Visit lumbercapital.com and their YouTube channel @
lumbercapitallogyard.
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
3 to 5 ft. Its relatively straight
grain coupled with a medium
Janka hardness rating of 950
lbf (pounds-force) means
cherry is easy on our mill
blades. We also appreciate its
mild, pleasant smell. Cherry
sawdust has the potential to
be irritating or even toxic for
horses, therefore we keep it
separated from our animal
bedding.
Our cherry logs are be-
tween 8 and 10 ft in length
with a 28" maximum diameter.
At our zero-waste log yard,
the outer bark slabs that are
VDZHGRɅLQLWLDOO\ZLOOHQGXS
as smoke wood for grilling
or home heating firewood.
For cabinetry or flooring,
5/4 flitches are removed
as needed to square up the
heartwood, proceeding with
5/4 boards having minimal
sapwood. However, our fa-
vorite way is to mill live-edge
slabs. These rough-cut 6/4
and 8/4 pieces can be quite re-
markable with wide sapwood
around curvy live edges. It is
easy to envision these beau-
ties becoming artistic tables
and other specialty items.
51
NEW DEPARTMENT
ADVANCED POWER TOOL TECHNIQUES
Four Band-Sawing Tasks Add Versatility
By A.J. Hamler
Resawing, pattern cutting, making compound cuts and
transforming logs into bowl blanks will expand your
band-sawing prowess.
A
s a workshop staple,
the band saw pulls
its weight cutting any
type of wood, both straight
and — its particular specialty
— curved cuts in just about
any shape imaginable. It’s also
one of the easier and safer ma-
chines for working wood when
52
used properly; unlike a table
saw, kickback isn’t an issue.
If you did nothing more than
simple cutting, a band saw
would still earn its keep, but
there are more ways to use
one than just basic cutting.
Here are four techniques you
definitely want to try.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
Resawing
To get workpieces of a particu-
lar thickness, you could just
run them through a planer.
That’s fine if you only need
to go slightly thinner, but for
halving stock or even cutting
multiple thinner workpieces
from a single thicker piece, a
planer is just wasteful because
most of the wood goes into
your dust collector.
Instead, resawing the stock
lengthwise with it standing
on-edge can create new work-
pieces of whatever thickness
you want. (Resawing denotes
that the stock was cut once to
create the original workpiece,
and you’re sawing it again,
hence “re” sawing.) You can
resaw wood on a table saw,
but you’re limited by how high
you can raise your table saw’s
blade, usually a bit more than
3" with typical saws that take
10" blades. So, for anything
wider, you’ll need to resaw in
two passes, flipping the stock
over between cuts. Resawing
anything wider than 6" isn’t
possible on a 10" table saw.
That’s what makes the
band saw perfect for resaw-
ing. Not only is stock width
limited only by your saw’s
vertical capacity, the thinner
blade also really cuts down
on sawdust.
An under-tensioned blade, a blade too narrow or an overly aggressive
feed speed can all contribute to what’s called a “barrel” cut.
For resawing, use the wid-
est blade your saw will handle;
for most 14" machines, a 1/2"
blade is just right. Tooth count
also matters. Resaw cuts are
very wide and create lots of
sawdust, and the small gullets
in a high-tooth-count blade
can easily bog down under the
load. A 3 tpi (teeth per inch)
blade with its larger gullets
is a better choice for clearing
that sawdust out of the cut
smoothly.
To begin, make any needed
adjustments to the saw. Check
that the rip fence is square
and the blade is perpendicular
to the table. Be sure your
blade tension is set correctly.
An under-tensioned blade can
deflect in a curved kerf, called
a “barrel” cut (you can see it
in the top left photo).
For that photo, I intention-
ally under-tensioned the blade
and made a partial resaw cut,
then crosscut the workpiece
so you can see what the blade
was doing inside the wood.
Although the cut was right in
the middle when I started, it
quickly curved to the outside
as the cut progressed. In
extreme cases, the blade can
actually come through the out-
er surface of the workpiece.
Barrel cuts are worsened by
using narrow blades and feed-
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
To cut this stock into two equal halves, mark a center line and carefully
adjust the saw’s rip fence to perfectly center the blade on your mark.
ing stock too forcefully.
Start the cut by marking
your workpiece at one end on
your desired cut line. In the
upper right photo, I’ve opted
to cut this 1" piece of walnut
right down the middle and
have set the fence to halve
the workpiece. If desired, you
could easily set the fence to
VKDYHRɅPXOWLSOHSLHFHVRI
veneer instead.
Lower the guide post to just
above the workpiece, and feed
the board slowly and smoothly
through the cut, keeping the
wood pressed firmly against
the fence as you go. A feath-
erboard is a good asset here. Feed stock slowly and carefully, taking care to keep it vertical against the
As you approach the end of IHQFH)RUVDIHW\XVHDSXVKVWLFNEHKLQGWKHZRUNSLHFHWRåQLVKWKHFXW
the cut, don’t push with your
hand. Instead, finish the cut
with a push stick directing
pressure on the rear edge.
With a sharp, properly-
tensioned blade and a moder-
ate feed rate, the resawn sur-
face should be flat and smooth
— save for the predictable
blade marks. A final surfacing
with a quick run through your
planer, or even a hand plane
or random orbit sander, will
remove these.
My band saw and rip fence
are designed for resawing, but
many saws are prone to make
cuts that “drift” to one side or Once cut, a properly resawn workpiece should need only minor surfacing
the other during a cut. If your to remove blade marks.
53
 ADVANCED POWER TOOL TECHNIQUES CONTINUED

An alternative to a standard rip fence is this single-point fence or guide. If you experience blade drift while cutting, a single-point fence will allow
It presents a single line of support on the side of the workpiece being fed \RXWRVOLJKWO\DGMXVWWKHFXWWLQJDQJOHRQWKHæ\E\VWHHULQJWKHZRRGOHIW
through the blade. or right to keep the kerf centered in a workpiece.

An auxiliary fence — here, a piece of 3" x 3" hardwood clamped to the
main rip fence — allows the blade guide to be lowered into position
directly above the workpiece.
rip fence is adjustable, you
can tweak it to a slight angle
to compensate by matching
the angle of drift. If not,
consider a single-point fence.
This is simply a perpendicu-
lar edge attached to your rip
fence, adjusted to contact the
workpiece just ahead of the
blade’s teeth. This allows you
to slightly pivot the workpiece
as you feed it to match the
drift angle so you can cut
more easily and accurately.
As when using a rip fence,
feed the workpiece through
the blade with the wood firmly
held against the single-point
5HVDZLQJKLJKO\åJXUHGVWRFNOLNHWKLVSLHFHRIVSDOWHGPDSOHFDQ\LHOG
extraordinary book-matched panels.
fence. If a featherboard won’t
interfere with the pivoting
(most are flexible enough to
allow a bit of play), one will
help with the task.
When resawing narrower
stock, the rip fence may not
allow you to lower the guide
post all the way to the work-
piece. In the bottom left photo
above, I’ve attached a piece of
3" x 3" directly to my regular
IHQFH7KLVRɅVHWWLQJDOORZV
me to lower the guide post
for the cut, resulting in the
two halves of what will be a
beautiful book-matched panel
once glued up.
Pattern Cutting
The best way to do pattern
routing with a template is to
first remove as much excess
stock as possible before
routing, a task easily handled
on a band saw. For a single
workpiece, you might opt to
carefully cut freehand as close
to the template as you can.
But you can speed up the
process considerably — a plus
for making multiple identical
components — with a quick-
to-make jig that essentially
does the same thing a guided
bit does on a router table.
For pattern cutting, a narrow

54 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

To prepare for pattern cutting, adhere a template to the workpiece with
double-stick tape. A few short well-placed pieces is all the tape you need.
blade works best, so I’ve
installed a 3/16" blade in my
saw before preparing the
workpiece. Double-stick tape
easily attaches the pattern
template to the wood, a piece
of 3/4" oak. Don’t go over-
board on tape. Use enough
for a secure hold but not so
PXFKWKDWLW´OOEHGLɆFXOWWR
remove the template. I’ve had
templates stuck down so hard
with tape before that bits of
the surface grain of my work-
pieces have actually torn out
when separating them.
The jig, a variation of a
single-point fence, goes by
several names — pattern
guide, rub block, follower,
finger guide, etc. — but it’s
just a narrow or tapered piece
of stock with a hole or notch
at the end to accommodate
the blade. This, in turn, is
attached to a crosspiece base
clamped to the rear edge of
the saw table.
The base thickness allows
the guide to clear the work-
piece but still ride the edge
of the template attached
above it. Adjust the jig before
clamping to keep the blade
a consistent distance from
the edge of the template as
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
A variation on a single-point fence, this pattern guide follows the contours
of a template with the blade offset to cut a uniform distance from the
template. Here, the cut will be made with about a 1/8” allowance.
the workpiece is fed into the
blade. Here, I’ve set it to cut
the workpiece about 1/8" from
the edge of the pattern, a very
small amount of waste that a
guided router bit can easily
remove in a single pass later.
This particular jig is specif-
ically sized for trimming 3/4"
stock, what I typically use
most often. For thicker work-
pieces, such as table legs or
other furniture components,
the base can be shimmed
at the rear by stacking thin
pieces of wood underneath to
bring it to the correct height
before clamping it into place. Feed the workpiece so the template rides the rounded end of the guide
To use, just run the through the cut, angling the stock as needed so the blade remains as
workpiece through the blade, parallel as possible to the stock edge.
allowing the template to ride
against the rounded front
end of the guide as you cut.
There’s plenty of maneuver-
ing room with this arrange-
ment, so it’s easy to pivot the
workpiece to keep the blade in
line with the template edge.
With the cut complete,
you have a workpiece with a
consistent amount of waste all
the way around, ready for the
router table. Once routed, re-
move the template and attach
it to a new workpiece for fast, 7KHåQLVKHGZRUNSLHFHLVUHDG\IRUåQDOPDFKLQLQJRQDURXWHUWDEOHZLWK
repeatable duplication. only a small amount of waste left to remove along the contour.
55
 ADVANCED POWER TOOL TECHNIQUES CONTINUED

To make three-dimensional objects with compound cuts on the band saw, 0DNHWKHåUVWVHULHVRIFXWVLQWKHIDFHSODQHRIWKHZRUNSLHFHVHWWLQJWKH
åUVWDGKHUHRUGUDZSDWWHUQVRQDGMDFHQWVLGHVRIWKHZRUNSLHFH RIIFXWVDVLGH

:LWKWKHFXWVLQRQHIDFHFRPSOHWHUHDWWDFKWKHRIIFXWVWRWKHPDLQZRUN- )OLSWKHZRUNSLHFHGHJUHHVDQGPDNHWKHFXWVLQWKHQHZSODQHDGGLQJ
SLHFHZLWKVWURQJWDSHWRUHFUHDWHWKHRULJLQDOZRUNSLHFH PRUHWDSHLIQHHGHGDV\RXIUHHVHFWLRQVRIZDVWH

Compound Cutting for As an example, let’s make

Three-dimensional Work
Most band saw work is done
in a single plane — straight or
curved. You start at one end
and work to the other and
boom, you’re done. But you
can also cut three-dimensional
objects like cabriole legs,
rocker runners and other
pieces with multiple cuts on
adjacent faces.
The first cut is easy because
the workpiece rests flat on the
saw table. But once it’s cut,
you don’t have a flat face to
make the second cut, which
can be tricky ... and danger-
%\UHPRYLQJZDVWHLQWZRVHSDUDWHSURFHGXUHVRQDGMDFHQWSODQHVRIWKH ous. That’s where compound
ZRUNSLHFHDOPRVWDQ\VKDSHFDQEHHDVLO\DQGVDIHO\FXW cutting comes into play.
a spatula with compound
curves. First, draw or attach
your pattern to adjacent faces
of the workpiece (see top left
photo). Be sure to orient the
patterns correctly.
Cut the workpiece using the
pattern on one face, taking
advantage of the flat bottom
face to make smooth through-
cuts. Remove the waste in
single pieces, if possible. Set
WKHRɅFXWVDVLGHDV\RXFXW
them away.
With the first series of cuts
FRPSOHWHJDWKHUWKHRɅFXWV
and tape them back into place.
What you’re doing here is
essentially putting the original

56 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

For both safety and maneuverability, screw the log to a cutting support, :LWKWKHORJVHFWLRQVHFXUHGIHHGLWVORZO\WKURXJKWKHEODGHWRæDWWHQ
placing screws on the opposite side from where the blade will cut. one side. As with resawing, a wide blade with a low tooth count is best.

Prepare the turning blank by cutting away as much waste as possible. A
plywood disc screwed to the top acts as a blade guide to keep the blank’s
circumference round.
rectangular workpiece back
together with all its flat faces
intact once more. That way,
cutting any of the other faces
is fair game again.
Back at the saw, rotate the
reassembled workpiece to
the adjacent face and make
cuts along the pattern on this
side, just as you did before. If
the workpiece becomes loose
after the first pass, which will
cut through the tape, another
piece of tape or two will keep
it solidly together to make the
final cuts.
The result is a perfectly-
shaped spatula, ready for
further carving or sanding to
final appearance.
Preparing Green Bowl
Blanks from Logs
Band saws are absolutely the
best tools to prepare green
wood turning blanks for
natural-edge bowls. But don’t
just wrangle a log onto the
saw table. Instead, attach it
to a reusable right-angle jig
to form a steady base while
cutting. You can screw the log
to the jig in spots that will be
removed later on the lathe.
A single pass along the log’s
length creates a flat face for
the bowl bottom. In the top
right photo, I’m leaving the
pith in place for mounting the
blank in the lathe, but it won’t
be included in the final bowl.
*UHHQZRRGFDQEHGLIåFXOWWRFXWVR\RXPD\QHHGWRFUHDWHWKHURXQG
blank by cutting away multiple small arcs of waste instead of making a
continuous circular cut.
Next, with the flat side of
the blank faced down, attach
a round cutting guide to the
upper bark side to help orient
the workpiece as you cut the
blank. Here, I’ve used an 8"
circle of thin scrap plywood
screwed to the workpiece,
but heavy cardboard will also
work if needed.
Green wood is pretty heavy
and resistant to cutting, so
take your time and remove
waste in sections if you need
to. When done, you’ll have a
round blank with curved bark
on top and a flat bottom.
A.J. Hamler writes frequent-
ly for Woodworker’s Journal.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 57

 WHAT’S IN STORE
Dog Hole Template, Updated Grr-ripper
Bar clamps are essential to
Contact Information ZRRGZRUNLQJIRUDOOVRUWVRI
assembly tasks, including
MICROJIG Rockler Parallel Bar Clamps
855-747-7233 gluing up panels, door frames,
microjig.com FDVHZRUNDQGGUDZHUV1RZ
RocklerRɅHUVWKUHHQHZ
Metabo HPT
800-829-4752 Parallel Bar Clamps to add
metabo-hpt.com to your clamping options.
Available in 24" (item 86908;
Rockler
800-279-4441 $39.99), 36" (item 85569;
rockler.com $44.99) and 48" (item 84700;
OHQJWKVWKHLUMDZV
WORX
866-354-9679 UHPDLQSUHFLVHO\SDUDOOHOZLWK
worx.com one another to help prevent
assemblies from distorting,
ERZLQJRUOLIWLQJXQGHUSUHV
sure. Heavy-duty steel bars
DQGZLGHMDZVHQDEOHWKHVH
www.woodworkersjournal.com

MORE ON THE WEB robust clamps to produce

For videos demonstrating
VIDEO featured tools, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
up to 1,000 lbs of clamping
pressure. A 31 ¹ 2" throat depth
expands their versatility,
and so does the reversible
VOLGLQJFODPSMDZZKLFKWXUQV
the clamps into spreaders.
(UJRQRPLFKDQGOHVZLWK
UXEEHURYHUPROGVQ\ORQMDZ

caps that prevent marring and
a removable foot at the end
of the bar are other helpful
features.
WORX 20V Power Share WORX® has designed the 20V
Full-Size Hot Glue Gun
Power Share Full-Size Hot Glue
Gun in a cordless drill config-
uration for improved handling
and control. Depressing a
WRSPRXQWHG2Q2ɅVZLWFK
DFWLYDWHVWKHWRROZKLFK
reaches 392°F in about three
minutes. In heating mode, a
OLJKWLQIURQWRIWKH2Q2Ʌ
button indicates it’s on. For
VDIHW\WKHWRROVKXWVRɅDIWHU
20 minutes of inactivity. An
H[WHQGHGWZRILQJHUWULJJHU
and overmold make the gun
HDVLHUWRJULSZKLOHGLVSHQV
ing 11-mm (7/16"-diameter)
glue sticks. These full-size
VWLFNVDUHZLGHO\DYDLODEOH
With a WORX 20-volt 2.0 Ah
battery slid into the base,
WKHJOXHJXQZHLJKVMXVW
lbs. The battery also enables
the gun to stand upright, for
added convenience. You can
purchase the glue gun in kit
IRUPZLWKDEDWWHU\FKDUJHU
and 10 multipurpose glue
sticks, as item WX045L for
$69.99. It’s also available as
a bare tool (item WX045L.9)
IRULI\RXRZQRWKHU
WORX batteries already.

58 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal


MICROJIG Grr-Ripper2 Go and
Color-Coded Index Sticker
Leveraging the success of its
award-winning Grr-ripper 3D
push block system, MICRO-
JIG now has introduced a
new iteration — Grr-ripper2
Go — that is even more
user-friendly. Like its prede-
cessor, Grr-ripper2 Go has
a soft, high-friction rubber
surface underneath its plastic
housing. However, the new
design comes fully assembled
and ready to use. Its three
fixed legs provide downward
pressure to stabilize workpiec-
es on a flat surface, inward
pressure against a fence
and forward pressure for
consistent feeding through a
table saw blade. The legs are
staggered so any rip cut from
5/16" up to 2" can be made
with the blade passing safely
underneath it. A color-coded
index sticker packaged with
the device applies over the rip
fence’s scale. Whenever the
rip fence is set at less than a
2" cutting width, the sticker’s
color-coded areas show how
to position the Grr-ripper2
Go against the fence — it is
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
marked with a
matching color
scheme on top.
Grr-ripper2 Go
sells for $29.99.
Metabo HPT
has updated
its 18V MultiVolt™ 18-Gauge
Compact Brushless Brad Nailer
with a 2.0Ah battery with a
fuel gauge. The tool now is
also 30 percent more compact
and 31 percent lighter than
the previous model at just 4.4
lbs. It can drive 1,300 brad
nails per charge at a rate of
two nails per second with zero
ramp-up time. The nailer will
accept 5/8"- to 2"-long brads,
and its magazine holds a 100-
nail strip. The kit (NT1850D-
FT) includes a 2.0 Ah battery,
charger and carry bag for
$279.97.
Rockler Dog Hole
Routing Template
Metabo HPT 18V MultiVolt
18-Gauge Compact Brushless
Brad Nailer
Rockler’s 1/4" x 12"
x 16" clear polycar-
bonate Dog Hole
Routing Template
(item 63779; $49.99)
enables you to rout a
pattern of 3/4"-diam-
eter dog holes in a
work surface that are
spaced 4" on center.
The accessory comes
with a 3/4" brass
guide bushing for a
plunge router (not
included), plus four
steel edge pins and three steel
dog hole pins to anchor it in
place during use. A 1/2"-
diameter straight or spiral
router bit is required but
sold separately.
59
 TOOL PREVIEW
Nova Nebula 18" DVR Wood Lathe
By Chris Marshall
This heavy-duty contender delivers smooth performance, intelligent
control and oodles of power for demanding turning applications.
A contoured 12" tool-rest
with a hardened-steel bar
along the edge will ensure
a wide range of tool
KDQGOLQJæH[LELOLW\DQG
smooth sliding from one
end of the rest to the other.
An included collar, which
mounts to the 1"-diameter
SRVWPDNHVLWHDV\WRVHW
the tool-rest’s working
KHLJKWWRWKHODWKHÖVD[LV
of rotation.
60
T
eknatool has long been
at the forefront of
DVR (Digital Variable
Reluctance) motor technol-
ogy, and now the company
RɅHUVWKDWVWDWHRIWKHDUW
convenience in a full-size lathe
platform with the new Nova™
Nebula. It’s the only heavy-du-
ty DVR lathe motor powered
by Striatech.
One of the many benefits of
DVR is that this motor’s rotor
is also the lathe’s 11 ¹ 4" x 8 tpi
spindle — there are no belts or
pulleys hidden in a dark com-
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
partment within or under the
motor head. Just twist the
speed knob to enjoy infinite-
ly variable speed between
50 and 4,000 rpm.
Loaded with Smarts
DVR also means the 2.5-
peak horsepower motor is
controlled by a sophisti-
cated computer, which
monitors the spindle
speed and provides the
optimal amount of power
to maintain that speed.
Its direct-drive, high-
torque capacity is virtual-
ly unstoppable. Still, if a
chisel should jam or the
lathe experiences excess
vibration, its circuitry will
sense the issue and shut the
motor down automatically.
Teknatool reports that
the Nebula is miserly with
power consumption. It has
the potential to save up to 80
percent of the power used by
a conventional AC/DC motor.
1HEXOD´V±EUDLQ²RɅHUV
three speed ramp settings,
too. These are customizable
in the computer’s menu: 1)
Small Diameter Mode, when
you want to ramp the lathe up
to speed quickly; 2) Normal
Mode, for moderate ramp-up
with mid-weight turnings;
 Nebula 18" DVR Lathe
Street Price: $3,299.99
Motor: 2.5hp (peak) direct drive DVR
Swing Over Bed: 18"
Distance Between Centers: 25"
Net Weight: 469 lbs
Spindle Index: 24 divisions (15 degrees apart)
Speed Range: variable speed, 50 to 4,000 rpm
Bed/Stand: steel/cast-iron
Headstock Spindle/Tailstock Quill: #2 Morse taper
www.teknatool.com
and 3) Extra Large Mode, a
setting that causes Nebula
to accelerate slowly when
starting to turn large, heavy
or imbalanced workpieces.
Nebula can be programmed
for up to eight customizable
speed settings. It also has a
unique timed “drying mode”
that spins a turning at 50 rpm
to help dry a wet finish for as
long as the user prefers.
Hit the Brakes
Even its electronic braking
feature can be adjusted to
your preference — from a
soft 1 percent to a substan-
tial 25 percent. The most
robust setting provides faster
braking than even the lathe’s
emergency stop button. So, if
you’re a turner who shuts the
ODWKHRɅIUHTXHQWO\WRFKHFN
your progress, this electronic
braking capability will dramati-
cally reduce spin-down time or
the need to stop what you’re
working on by hand or with
the handwheel.
Other Big Lathe Features
Nebula’s cast-iron headstock
can be unlocked to slide along
the bed. It pivots 360 degrees
for outboard turning or can
be set to six preset detents
(-45, 0, 22.5, 45, 90 and 180
Woodworker’s Journal June 2023
Thanks to a magnetic wired remote with digital speed display, many of
degrees). A repositionable re- the lathe’s important controls can be positioned wherever you want them:
emergency stop switch, On/Off button and motor speed dial.
mote control with a magnetic
EDFNVKRZVUSPDQGRɅHUVD
separate speed control, On/
2ɅVZLWFKDQGHPHUJHQF\
stop switch — duplicates of the
controls on the main display.
There’s plenty of turning ca-
pacity here, with 18" of swing
over bed and 25" between cen-
ters. Both the headstock and
tailstock quills are #2 Morse
taper, so they fit typical Ja-
cobs chuck spindles, live and
drive centers. The tailstock
has a storage compartment,
and its quill extends to over
41 ¹ 2", traveling on ultra-smooth
trapezoidal threads.
Teknatool provides a 12"- This lathe’s cast-iron headstock can be unlocked without tools and slid
long, contoured tool-rest with along the bed, when that capability is necessary. It also swivels 360
degrees or can be locked to six preset angle detents.
a hardened steel bar on its
edge. It has a 1" post to fit the
banjo, plus a tool-rest collar
to lock height settings. Both
the tool-rest and banjo tighten
down with large throw levers.
This machine’s heavy-duty,
cast-iron stand has extra-large The heavy-duty tailstock has a
leveling feet and a storage built-in storage compartment with
shelf for tools. Other standard a door. Its quill extends more than
4 1 â 2" for drilling deep holes or hold-
goodies include a knock-out ing blanks without compromising
bar, live and spur centers, an access for turning tools.
Acruline center and a USB
cable for software updates. A
bed extension and outrigger
are available as accessories.
61
 HARDWORKING HARDWARE
Aileron Lift-Assist System for Chest Lids
By WJ Staff
This lift assist with a soft-close option holds a lid in place
whether fully or partly open and keeps fingers from getting
pinched or lids from banging shut.

www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
To watch a video about
VIDEO installing Sugatsune’s
Aileron Lift-Assist System, visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
D
ealing with a number
of niggling problems
with chest lids has
been a work in process since
the first chests were built.
Initially, lids just sat on top of
the chest. But where would
you put them when you need-
ed to get at what was inside?
When hinges came on
the scene, they solved one
problem but created others.
Now lids had a place to go,
but they could swing too
far back, harming both the
hinges and the lid. Chains and
control-arm stops were the
next solution, but they had
problems, too. The control
arms poked into the chest’s
contents, and chains easily
came loose, got sandwiched
under the lid or caught on
what was being stored inside.
Then there was the problem
of closing the lid. Free-swing-
ing hinged lids had the
tendency to slam down with
a vengeance, often capturing
fingers. How children survived
toy boxes with free-swinging
lids is a question for the ages.
Next-Gen Lid Stays
Finally, lid stays came along,
holding lids firmly in the open
position and then closing
them slowly, protecting
fingers. Now Sugatsune has
taken lid stays to the next
level. Its Aileron Lift-Assist
Soft Close Hinge Set for
Chests hardware will hold
a lid at almost any position
when properly adjusted. The
lid-stay mechanism is installed
over the top of 35 mm cup
hinges, which are included
with the kit.

62 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 1 2

This system mounts onto Sugatsune’s included 35 mm hinge set. Deter- Set a combination square to 20.5 millimeters. Here that measurement is
mine the hinge spacing and mark their locations on the lid by drawing a transferred to a combo square rule that lacks the metric scale. Use this
centerline for each hinge component. Do the same inside the chest. setting to make cross marks on the lid to locate drilling center points.

3 4

Reset your combination square to 19 millimeters and draw a wide cross Reset the combination square to 118 millimeters. Choose a side to mount
mark on the hinge centerlines inside the cabinet carcass. These will the lid stay on the lid. Extend that lid hinge centerline and use the square
locate where you will mount the hinge plates. to mark a crossline at this distance.

5 6

Chuck a 35 mm Forstner bit into the drill press. Set the drilling depth to With a self-centering bit in a drill/driver, drill the screw pilot holes for the
bore holes 11 millimeters deep into the 3/4" lid. Drill a hole at each marked hinge plates in the chest carcass, using the plates as drilling templates.
hinge location. Test the depth of the hole with the hinge cups. Hold the hinge plates securely so they don’t move as you drill.

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 63

 HARDWORKING HARDWARE CONTINUED

7 8

Place the hinge cups in their lid holes and use them as templates for Bore installation holes in the lid for the Aileron lid-stay plate, and mount it
drilling holes for their installation screws. Drive these screws home. Use with screws. This plate secures the lid-stay arm. The arm’s function is to
just enough force to sink the screws without stripping them. hold the lid fully up or at some intermediate position.

9 10

Remove the forward two screws on the lid-stay hinge plate and set them Complete the installation by mounting the lid stay to the lid-stay plate by
aside for the time being. Loosen the rear two screws and then slide the lid retightening the rear screws. Then grab the screws you set aside in Step 9
stay into place on the lid-stay plate. and reinstall them in their mounting holes.

11
Woodworker’s Journal has
used them on a couple of
projects with great success.
Their installation isn’t hard
if you carefully follow the 11
steps outlined here. All the
measurements in the instruc-
tions are in metric. Just use a
metric rule to set the Imperial
rule of your combo square for
layout purposes. We recom-
mend using a drill press to
bore the cup hinge holes, but
Rockler’s JIG IT® Concealed
You can adjust both the lift force and the closing force. This will require Hinge Drilling Guide works
a bit of trial and error to get them just right. With that done, the Sugatsune well with a drill/driver, too.
Aileron Lift-Assist System is fully installed and ready to go. Once Aileron is mounted in
the chest, you will need to ad-
just its lift force, which is done
through a small hole located
at the end of the lid-stay arm.
Adjusting how the lid closes is
done by moving a small plastic
tab either forward or back.
It’s located on the right side
of the lift-arm assembly.
Aileron Lift-Assist Soft-Close
Hinge Sets and Lid Stays for
Chests are available in both
medium tension (item 64959)
and high tension (item 67858)
options at rockler.com or in
Rockler stores.

64 June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal

 TURN LIKE A PRO
Woodturning is one of the fastest growing areas
of hobbyist woodworking, and once you’ve
turned your first bowl, pen or furniture spindle,
you’ll see why! Woodworker’s Journal has
partnered with the American Association of
Woodturners to bring you the Woodturning
Monthly email newsletter.

This free monthly missive includes articles and

videos on all topics of woodturning that you can
put to use on your own projects, in your own
shop. Turn your attention to it and sign up today!

SUBSCRIBE FOR FREE!

www.woodworkersjournal.com/Monthly

YOUR WEEKLY Woodworking FIX

The Woodworker’s Journal Weekly is a
free, fully digital woodworking
¿¶ÈĽ¶ÅŶÃʇÅȲÄŹ¶ǶÃÊȱÃÄÅÀ¿½º¿¶
woodworking newsletter (launched over
20 years ago) and remains the most
popular and widely read today.
Every week we’ll send an email to your
inbox full of fresh editorial content about
ÊÀÆ÷²ÇÀúŶ¹À³³ÊʇÀÆʓ½½ȱ¿µÈÀüĹÀÁ
tips and tricks, woodworking articles and
how-to videos — we even have a
woodworking-themed crossword puzzle.
Plus, every issue includes two free
downloadable plans!
Check it out at the link below and sign
up for your free subscription today!

Woodworker’s Journal June 2023 65

 FINISHING CORNER
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish
By WJ Staff
Achieve a legendary woodworker’s finishing results on your interior
projects with this grain-enhancing, satiny topcoat from Rockler.
T
he late master wood-
worker Sam Maloof
preferred hand-ap-
plied, low luster finishes for
his sinewy walnut rockers and
other furniture. “One of the
most important aspects of
finishes, I believe, is that they
invite me to touch, to caress
and to take pleasure in the
wood surface,” Maloof said.
More than 20 years ago,
Nordy Rockler partnered with
Maloof to develop a signature
wood finish that not only
would meet Sam’s expecta-
tions but also provide an easy-
to-apply solution for wood-
workers of all skills levels.
Rockler’s Sam Maloof Poly/
Oil Finish is the result. It’s a
66
custom blend of polyurethane
varnish and other natural oils,
including raw tung oil and
linseed oil, that can simply
be wiped onto bare wood and
dries to a satiny “close to the
wood” sheen.
This moderately thick
liquid has an amber tone that
deepens wood color and grain
SDWWHUQVZKLOHRɅHULQJSURWHF-
tion against spills and normal
wear and tear. Use it on
interior furniture, cabinetry,
millwork and accent projects
that won’t be exposed to heat
or excessive moisture. When
the wood looks dry, the finish
can be reapplied as needed
without sanding or stripping
the project first.
June 2023 Woodworker’s Journal
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish
is suitable for bare or stained
wood of most species, provid-
ed the stain is fully cured. For
optimal results, sand the wood
up through the grits to 400 or
even higher, then burnish the
surfaces with 0000 steel wool.
Apply the finish liberally and
ZLSHRɅWKHH[FHVVFRPSOHWH-
ly to prevent excess finish
from becoming tacky. After
the finish dries for 24 hours,
subsequent coats can be
applied. Allow each coat to dry
for 24 hours. Four coats are
recommended.
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish
(item 58644) is available in
quart cans for $36.99.
L earn to safely and confidently operate the most important tool in your
workshop with The Way To Woodwork: Mastering the Table Saw DVD.
Everything is covered, from fundamental cuts like ripping and crosscutting
to more advanced techniques like joinery. Our experts put these techniques
to work building a classic Arts & Crafts Nightstand made entirely on the table
saw (plan included). Whether you’re an expert or rookie, this DVD will teach
you how to get the most out of this incredibly versatile machine. Item 57292.

www.woodworkersjournal.com/wj2332
or call 800-610-0883 (code WJ2332)
GRADUATE TO
THE WORLD'S FIRST

ROUTER SYSTEM
Digital Technology
Superior Accuracy
Easy To Use

©2023 Next Wave CNC. All Rights Reserved. SHARK is a Registered Trademark. www.NextWaveCNC.com