Untitled

EYEWITNESS
LONDON
CONTENTS
DISCOVER 6
Welcome to London .................................. 8 London Itineraries.......................................26
Reasons to Love London ....................... 10 London Your Way ........................................32
Explore London .............................................14 A Year in London .........................................58
Getting to Know London .......................16 A Brief History ..............................................60
EXPERIENCE 66
Whitehall and Westminster ......... 68 Southwark and Bankside ............ 204
Mayfair and St James’s..................... 86 South Bank ............................................218
Soho and Trafalgar Square ......... 104 Chelsea and Battersea..................232
Covent Garden South Kensington

and the Strand ..................................... 122 and Knightsbridge ............................ 242
Holborn and the Kensington, Holland Park

Inns of Court ........................................136 and Notting Hill................................. 260
Regent’s Park
Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia ........... 150 and Marylebone ................................ 272
King’s Cross, Camden

and Islington .........................................164 Hampstead and Highgate............286
Greenwich and
The City ................................................... 172 Canary Wharf .....................................298
Shoreditch and Spitalfields ..........194 Beyond the Centre .......................... 310
NEED TO KNOW 332

Before You Go ............................................334 Index .................................................................342
Getting Around ..........................................336 Acknowledgments.................................. 350
Practical Information .............................340
Left: The skyscraping Shard in Southwark

Previous: The start of Regent Street, Piccadilly Circus
Front cover: Millennium Bridge, with St Paul’s Cathedral
in the background
An aerial view of London
DISCOVER
Welcome to London ......................................8
Reasons to Love London .........................10
Explore London .............................................. 14
Getting to Know London .......................... 16
London Itineraries........................................ 26
London Your Way ......................................... 32
A Year in London ..........................................58
A Brief History ............................................... 60

WELCOME TO
LONDON
DISCOVER Welcome to London
For all its pomp and ceremony, London has

always been a cosmopolitan capital. This diverse
city has it all: amazing art and ground-breaking
music, royal palaces and historic pubs, futuristic
skyscrapers and picturesque parks. Whatever
your dream trip to London includes, this DK
Eyewitness travel guide is the perfect companion.
1 Relaxing on
Hampstead Heath.
2 A typical London pub.
3 Admiring art at the
National Gallery.
4 Royal Festival Hall on
the South Bank.
4
8
It’s easy to tread in the footsteps of kings and The city’s charms extend beyond its centre.
queens in London, steeped as it is in history, Head to places such as Brixton or Richmond
from the imposing Tower of London to graceful to experience the diverse personalities of
Buckingham Palace. The UK’s capital is a cultural London’s urban villages. Alternatively, escape
colossus, brimming with free museums and art the crowds at Kew Gardens or the Queen
galleries, from the National Gallery, with its Elizabeth Olympic Park, ambling along the
Renaissance masterpieces, to the Tate Modern’s winding trails and landscaped flowerbeds.
cutting-edge performance works. London also With so many different things to discover and
boasts an excellent music and theatre scene. It’s experience, London can seem overwhelming.
a paradise for foodies, where you can sample We’ve broken the city down into easily navigable
street food from around the world, and dine in chapters, with detailed itineraries, expert local
an enticing array of Michelin-starred restaurants. tips and colourful, comprehensive maps to
Countless wonderful green spaces punctuate help you plan the perfect visit. Whether you’re
the city’s heart, including eight royal parks, and staying for a weekend, a week or longer, this
swathes of bucolic bliss such as Hampstead Heath DK Eyewitness guide will ensure that you see
are never too far away; indeed, London became the very best London has to offer. Enjoy the
the world’s first National Park City in 2019. book, and enjoy London.
9
REASONS TO LOVE
LONDON
DISCOVER Reasons to Love London
It’s a world in a city. It’s a buzzing metropolis. It has a story to tell on every
corner. Ask any Londoner and you’ll hear a different reason why they love
their city. Here, we pick some of our favourites.
1 PRICELESS MUSEUMS
AND GALLERIES
Take a turn through Ancient
Egypt or meet a roaring
dinosaur at one of London’s
unbeatable museums – and
all without spending a penny.
WALKING THE
THAMES PATH 2
With 45 km (28 miles) of
riverside walkways between
Richmond in the west and
the Thames Barrier in the
east, there is no better way
to see the sights.
3 MARKETS
Will it be the tasty treats of
Borough (p213) or the kaleido
scopic flowers of Columbia Road
(p202)? Amble, browse and pick
up goodies at any one of London’s
many markets.
10
POMP AND CEREMONY 4
The State Opening of
Parliament, the Lord Mayor’s
Show and the extravagant
Trooping the Colour showcase
London’s traditions at their
finest (p59).
INCREDIBLE
ARCHITECTURE 5
There are architectural treats
all over the city. Discover
staggering skyscrapers,
Brutalist arts centres and even
a majestic Hindu temple.
FESTIVALS 6
London offers a packed
calendar of eye-catching
festivals. Crowning
them all is the exuberant
Notting Hill Carnival (p268).
THE SOUTH BANK 7
Hugging a curve of the River
Thames, the South Bank is
filled with accessible-to-all
institutions of theatre, film, art
and music, and buzzing bars
perfect for a sundowner.
DISCOVER Reasons to Love London
PARKS AND GARDENS 8

In a city that hums with traffic
and noise, it may be a surprise
to find green spaces at every
turn – so many in fact that
London is officially the world’s
first National Park City.
9 THEATRELAND
From Shakespeare to Pinter,
London has always enjoyed a
wonderful theatrical tradition,
particularly in the West End.
Across the Thames, there’s
also the iconic Old Vic (p231).
12
10 GLOBAL
RESTAURANT SCENE
Thanks to its multicultural
population, London has an
enviable array of culinary
experiences to tantalize the
tastebuds of any foodie.
HOUSES OF
PARLIAMENT 11
The febrile centre of political
power, the Gothic Palace of
Westminster is a city icon (p76).
Explore the moody interior and
discover centuries of turbulent
and fascinating history.
A CITY OF PUBS 12
One of Britain’s enduring
institutions, the pub is the
beating heart of London life.
And the choice is staggering
– from traditional affairs to
hipster craft-beer bars.
13
EXPLORE
LONDON C A M D E CNA M D E N
This guide divides London into 17 colour-

coded sightseeing areas, as shown on
the map below. Find out more about each London London
Zoo Zoo
area on the following pages. For sights
beyond the main city centre see p310.
R e g e n t ’Rs e g e n t ’ s
Pa r k Pa r k
REGENT’S
REGENT’S
PARK PARK
AND MARYLEBONE
AND MARYLEBONE
p272 p272
M A RY L EMBAORY
N LE E B O N E
KENSINGTON,
KENSINGTON, PA D D I NPA D DNI N GTO N
GTO
HOLLAND
HOLLAND
PARK PARK
AND NOTTING
AND NOTTING
HILL HILL SO
p260 p260 TR
M AY FA IMRAY FA I R S
N OT T I NNGOT T I N G
HILL HILL MAYFAIR
MAYFAIR
AND AN
ST JAMES’S
ST JAMES’S
K e n s i n gKteonns i n g t o n Hyde Hyde p86 p86
HOLLAN HD
OLLAND GardenG s ardens Pa r k Pa r k
PA R K PA R K Kensington
Kensington Green Gree
Palace Palace Park Par
SOUTHSOUTH
KENSINGTON
KENSINGTON
Holland Holland AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE
AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE Buckingham Buckingham
Park Park p242 p242 Palace Palace
Science Science K N I G H TKSNBI R
G IHDTGSEB R I D G E
K E N S I NKGTO
E N SNI N GTO N Museum Museum
W
Natural History
Natural History
Museum Museum Victoria and
Victoria and
Albert Museum
Albert Museum
S O U T HS O U T H CHELSEA
CHELSEA
E N SNI N GTO N AND BATTERSEA
K E N S I NKGTO AND BATTERSEA
p232 p232
R a n e l a g hR a n e l a g h
Gardens Gardens
C H E L S ECAH E L S E A
Tham e sT h a m e s
UNITED KINGDOM r r
Rive Rive
B a t t e r sBe a t t e r s e a
Pa r k Pa r k
B AT T E RBSAT
E AT E R S E A
Edinburgh North
Sea
Belfast
G R E AT
B R I TA I N
IRELAND NETHER-
Birmingham LANDS
Cardiff
LONDON BELGIUM
Atlantic
Ocean
FRANCE
0 kilometres
0 kilometres1 1 N N
0 miles 0 miles 1 1
N
CROSS,CROSS, I S L I N GTO
KING’SKING’S I S LNI N GTO N
CAMDEN
CAMDEN
AND ISLINGTON
AND ISLINGTON
p164 p164
K I N G ’S K I N G ’S
C RO S S C RO S S
British British
Library Library
F I N S B UFRY
I N S B U RY
BLOOMSBURY
BLOOMSBURY
AND FITZROVIA
AND FITZROVIA S H O R ES
DHI TC
O RHE D I TC H
p150 p150
C L E R K ECNL W
E REKLEL N W E L L SHOREDITCH
SHOREDITCH
AND AND
B LO O MBSLO
B UORY
M S B U RY SPITALFIELDS
SPITALFIELDS
Museum Museum p194 p194
British British of Londonof London
Museum Museum HOLBORNHOLBORN
AND AND
THE INNS
THEOF
INNS
COURT
OF COURT
p136 p136 St Paul's St Paul's
CITY CITY
COVENTCOVENT CathedralCathedral
OHO AND
SOHO AND
GARDEN
GARDENT E M P L ET E M P L E
RAFALGAR
TRAFALGAR
AND THE
AND THE
SQUARESQUARE THE CITY
THE CITY
p104
STRANDSTRAND
p104
p172 p172
p122 p122
ND Tate Tate Tower Tower
S National National Modern Modern of Londonof London
Riv Riv
Gallery Gallery er er
SOUTHSOUTH
BANK BANK WA P P I NWA
G PPING
p218 p218 SOUTHWARK
SOUTHWARK
AND AND T h City T h
en London London BANKSIDE City
BANKSIDE Hall
am
Hall es
am
es
rk St James's
St James's
Eye Eye p204 p204
Park Park
S O U T H SWA
O URTKH WA R K
Westminster Houses ofHouses of
Westminster
Abbey Abbey Parliament Parliament
WHITEHALL
WHITEHALL
AND AND
Imperial War
Imperial War
WESTMINSTER
WESTMINSTER Museum Museum
p68 p68
W E ST MW
I NEST
STEMRI N ST E R L A M B E TL H
AMBETH
Tate Tate
Britain Britain
FURTHER AFIELD
HAMPSTEAD
AND HIGHGATE
A p286
GREENWICH AND
CANARY WHARF
p298
GETTING TO KNOW
LONDON
DISCOVER Getting to Know London
The UK’s pulsing capital is best known for its iconic sights, regal
architecture and cool, urban streets and neighbourhoods. Unsur-
prisingly, many of London’s highlights are in its centre but there
are visitor-friendly enclaves to discover all over the city.
WHITEHALL Best for

Sightseeing and iconic London
AND WESTMINSTER
PAGE 68
landmarks
The seat of government for a millennium, Westminster Home to

is synonymous with two of the most stunning buildings Westminster Abbey, Houses of
Parliament, Tate Britain
in London: the Houses of Parliament and Westminster
Abbey. The area is packed with a curious mixture of civil Experience
servants and sightseers, many of them making their A tour of the tombs of royalty at
way up and down Whitehall, the grand street linking Westminster Abbey
Parliament Square and Trafalgar Square. You’ll find few
locals here, with the area’s traditional pubs mostly the
haunts of government workers.
16
MAYFAIR
AND ST JAMES’S
PAGE 86
Home to some of London’s wealthiest
individuals (the word Mayfair screams
“money”), neither of these elite areas
are exclusively for the rich, with some
good, affordable restaurants, cosy
and welcoming pubs, and delightful
gardens dotted around. South of ritzy,
if traffic-clogged, Piccadilly, the streets
of St James’s are often surprisingly
quiet, given this is the heart of London.
There are historical buildings aplenty
but, really, this is the place to shop
for designer fashion and mingle
with the moneyed.
Best for
Designer fashion and high-end men’s tailoring
Home to
Buckingham Palace, Royal Academy of Arts
Experience
A shopping spree on Mayfair’s Bond Street
SOHO AND Best for

Eating out and a buzzing,
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
PAGE 104
lively atmosphere
Trafalgar Square can lay strong claim to being the Home to

epicentre of touristic London, a well-placed launching National Gallery, Chinatown
pad for much of what the city has to offer. Nearby is the Experience
liveliest part of the West End, with clumsily commer- A night of theatre in the
cialized Leicester Square, lantern-strewn Chinatown West End
and cool, unconventional Soho, the main LGBT+ district
of London. Many of Soho’s streets are replete with
excellent independent restaurants, bars and theatres,
making it the perfect spot for an evening out.
17
COVENT
GARDEN AND
PAGE 122
THE STRAND
The distinctive Covent Garden is always
lively, attracting tourists and locals in
equally large numbers to its dense mix
of markets, independent shops and

restaurants. There’s usually a spirited
family-friendly atmosphere as tourists
gather on the piazza to watch applause-
seeking street performers. Running
along its southern border is the Strand,
a busy road mostly worth visiting for
grand Somerset House, with its large
and elegant courtyard – often used
for special events – cafés, restaurant
and riverside views.
Best for
The buzz on Covent Garden Piazza
Home to
Covent Garden Piazza and Central Market,
Somerset House
Experience
The brightly painted warehouses of Neal’s Yard
HOLBORN AND
THE INNS OF
PAGE 136
COURT
This is one of the calmest areas of central
London. The traditional home of the
legal profession, its relative absence
of shops and restaurants means there
are almost as many lawyers as visitors.
The Inns of Court themselves are
subdued havens of tranquillity, a maze
of alleyways and gardens overlooked
by lawyers’ chambers. Add to this the
excellent small museums and the lovely
Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and you have a great
place to escape the bustle and crowds.
Best for
Hidden and quiet corners in
the heart of London
Home to
Inns of Court, Sir John
Soane’s Museum
Experience
A picnic in the green squares
of the Inns of Court
18
BLOOMSBURY
AND FITZROVIA
PAGE 150
Though not exactly avant-garde,
these relatively genteel districts have
a pleasingly bohemian, laid-back air.
Parts of Fitzrovia are densely packed
with an enjoyable mix of restaurants,
akin to Soho but turned down a few
notches. Bloomsbury is the student
quarter, home to several university
institutions, a variety of independent
bookshops and large garden squares.
Its most famous sight by far is the
British Museum, but elsewhere
Bloomsbury is characterized by a
pleasing sense of studious calm.
Best for
A laid-back, cultured atmosphere
and a strong literary heritage
Home to
British Museum
Experience
Some of the world’s greatest treasures
at the British Museum
KING’S CROSS, Best for

Canal walks and a wide range
CAMDEN AND
PAGE 164
of shopping and dining options
ISLINGTON Home to
Camden Market, St Pancras
Imaginatively converted from a downbeat industrial Station, British Library
landscape into a collection of culinary, commercial and Experience
artsy hotspots, King’s Cross has undergone staggering Off-beat fashion and food
transformation in recent years. Not entirely finished, at Camden Market
it’s still gaining reputation – the same of which cannot
be said of neighbouring Camden, where the alternative
market and raucous venues keep the place thriving day
and night. Adding yet more to the mix is well-heeled
Islington, a more bourgeois district full of gastropubs.
19
THE CITY
PAGE 172
The towering skyscrapers of the City
loom over London’s traditional financial
district, where corporates in suits scurry
around during the week, making it
a bustling place at lunchtimes but
an eerily deserted one during the
weekend. It is also the historical heart

of the city, with traces of the Roman
occupation in places. The City’s sights
are dispersed over a relatively wide
area, but there are plenty of them,
including London’s highest concen
tration of medieval and early modern
churches, crowned by the most famous
church of all, St Paul’s Cathedral.
Best for
Getting up close to London’s staggering history
Home to
St Paul’s Cathedral, Tower of London,
Barbican Centre
Experience
The gore and glory of the centuries-old
Tower of London
SHOREDITCH Best for

Feasting on street food and
AND SPITALFIELDS
PAGE 194
people-watching
These districts have attracted and spawned a once Home to

Columbia Road Flower Market,
cuttingedge, much caricatured and now simply trendy
Brick Lane
local population. Though gentrification has firmly set in,
there is still an alluring energy here, particularly in lively Experience
Shoreditch. It’s not entirely hipstercentric though, with Some of London’s most vibrant
and eclectic markets
Brick Lane home to a large Bangladeshi community,
and markets like Old Spitalfields and Columbia Road
continuing traditions that stretch way back before the
latest incarnation of the neighbourhood.
20
SOUTHWARK
PAGE 204
AND BANKSIDE
Over the river from the City, Bankside,
in the borough of Southwark, contains
some of the most popular tourist
attractions on the Thames. Tate Modern
and Shakespeare’s Globe, along with
waterside restaurants, pubs and
Borough Market, ensure that there’s a
constant buzz along this stretch of the
Thames Path. The recently developed
area emanating out from London
Bridge station has plenty of new places
to eat, a few of them in Western
Europe’s tallest building, the Shard.
Best for
Urban river walks and riverside sightseeing
Home to
Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe
Experience
Striking and strange modern art at the
Tate Modern
SOUTH BANK
PAGE 218
At night this is the liveliest part of

the river, but it is cultural institutions
rather than nightclubs that draw in
the after-dark crowds. The Southbank
Centre’s concert halls and gallery,
alongside the National Theatre and the
BFI Southbank, form a striking line-up
of architecture along the river. Any gaps
are filled mostly with mediocre chain
restaurants, though bookstalls, a skate
park and a food market provide a more
homespun angle. The South Bank is
always busy in the daytime too, the
views from the promenade – and from
atop the London Eye – having cemented
it as one of London’s must-visit areas.
Best for
A sundowner and an evening’s entertainment
Home to
Southbank Centre, Imperial War Museum,
London Eye
Experience
A stroll along the Thames Path
21
CHELSEA
PAGE 232
AND
BATTERSEA
Sitting on opposite sides of the Thames
are wealthy Chelsea and energetic
Battersea. Flashy sedans and 4WD
vehicles, often derided as Chelsea

tractors, ply Chelsea’s main shopping
street, King’s Road, where upmarket
fashion boutiques sit next door to more
humdrum high-street stores. Away
from King’s Road the area is largely
residential, though there are some
decent pubs, worthwhile museums
and gardens. The glorious park, trendy
shops and varied restaurants of
Battersea are a welcome retreat from
the touristy sights of central London.
Best for
Upmarket shopping and riverside parks
and gardens
Home to
Saatchi Gallery, Battersea Park
Experience
A spot of shopping along the King’s Road
SOUTH KENSINGTON Best for

World-class free museums
PAGE 242
AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE Home to

London’s museum quarter, South Kensington is home Victoria and Albert Museum,
Natural History Museum,
to three of the largest and best museums in the city,
Science Museum
exhibiting stunning natural history, science and
decorative arts collections. In keeping with the spirit Experience
of learning that pervades here, the wide streets house The weird and wonderful
skeletons and species inside
several important royal colleges and societies. In
the Natural History Museum
contrast, Knightsbridge, just up the road, oozes
ostentatious wealth and is the location of one of
the city’s most iconic department stores, Harrods.
22
KENSINGTON, Best for
Markets, parks and beautiful
PAGE 260
HOLLAND PARK AND neighbourhoods
NOTTING HILL Home to

Design Museum
From well-to-do High Street Kensington, the
Experience
neighbourhoods to the north drift uphill through Browsing for bargains on
expensive townhouses, some original little museums Portobello Road
and Holland Park. Partially wooded and beautifully
landscaped, the park reflects its upmarket location
with its pricey restaurant and outdoor operas. To its
north is Notting Hill, more touristy than High Street
Kensington, in part because of the eponymous film,
but also because of its market on Portobello Road.
REGENT’S PARK Best for

Georgian architecture,
PAGE 272
AND MARYLEBONE open-air theatre
With one of London’s more high-brow high streets, a Home to

thriving restaurant scene, leafy squares and elegant London Zoo
brick faÇades, Marylebone attracts the well-heeled. Experience
There is a distinct change in tone on the main road The splendid shelves of the
between here and Regent’s Park to the north, where marvellous Daunt Books
the massive queues for Madame Tussauds are
accompanied by non-stop traffic. This all melts
pleasantly away in the attractive park itself, with
its canalside location providing universal appeal.
23
HAMPSTEAD
PAGE 286
AND HIGHGATE
Separated by the rolling fields and
woodlands of Hampstead Heath and
the atmospheric Highgate Cemetery,
two of the biggest draws for visitors,
Hampstead and Highgate have

maintained much of their quaintness
and villagey charm, despite London’s
rapid urban expansion. The jumbled
streets graced with boutique shops
and upscale restaurants that make
up the old villages are great for a
stroll in a part of the city where the
pace is noticeably slower.
Best for
London villages and vast swathes of heathland
Home to
Hampstead Heath, Highgate Cemetery
Experience
A dip in the chilly Hampstead bathing ponds
GREENWICH
PAGE 298
AND CANARY
WHARF
Separated by the river, but joined by a
foot tunnel underneath it, Greenwich
and Canary Wharf are as different from
one another as it gets. Built around the
old docks in the 1980s, the business
district of Canary Wharf lacks soul but
is full of hidden history and dockside
walking routes, the sum of which makes
it unlike anywhere else in the city. In
contrast, Greenwich has history seeping
from its pores, populated as it is by a
swathe of prominent royal and historical
buildings and museums, an ancient
park and a handsome town centre.
Best for
Maritime London
Home to
National Maritime Museum, Cutty Sark,
Greenwich Park, Royal Observatory
Experience
The home of Greenwich Mean Time in
Greenwich Park
24
BEYOND THE CENTRE Best for
Local life and getting off the
PAGE 310
Though it has a distinct city centre, the sprawling beaten path

capital of London reaches far beyond the urban banks Home to
of the Thames. Make the effort to venture out to the Hampton Court, Kew Gardens,
suburbs and you’ll find the locals: urban families and Warner Bros. Studio Tour: The
young professionals, multinational and multicultural, Making of Harry Potter
all fiercely protective of their backyard, and with good Experience
reason. There are some big-name attractions out The sights, sounds and smells
here – royal palaces, stately homes and lush gardens of energetic Brixton
to name a few – but a trip beyond the centre is really
a great opportunity to get to know the locals behind
this multifaceted city.
25
DISCOVER London Itineraries
1 Looking towards the

iconic Tower Bridge.
2 Tate Modern, housed in
a former power station.
3 St Paul’s Cathedral.
2 4 The London Eye.
26
With so much to see and do in London it can be difficult
knowing where to start. Here we suggest a few itineraries
to help you get the most out of your visit.
1 DAY
Morning (p176) before heading into the gigantic
By following the river you can fit an awful old power station to admire – or puzzle
lot into one day without having to travel over – modern art. Check out the views
too far or rely on public transport. Begin from the top floor of the Blavatnik
at Butler’s Wharf; located close to Tower Building before having a coffee in the
Bridge (p188) and lined with decent river- gallery’s cafe (the view from here isn’t
facing restaurants, it’s a great spot for bad either). Revitalized, continue along the
breakfast. From there, walk across the Thames Path, around a bend in the river,
world-famous bridge to the Tower of to the South Bank (p218). Pause to watch
London (p180) and immerse yourself for skateboarders and browse the popular
a few hours in a thousand years of royal second-hand book stall under Waterloo
history and scandal. Ready for lunch? Bridge before joining the queues for the
Follow the river to London Bridge and cross London Eye (p228), which is open until
back over to the south side where you can at least 6pm on most days of the year.
pick up tasty street food or a gourmet
picnic from Borough Market (p213).
Evening
It’s a half-hour walk back along the river
Afternoon to Southwark (p204). Have a spot of
Wander through the streets of Southwark dinner at one of the many restaurants
past the Golden Hinde and along Clink in the area – there are some terrific ones
Street. Soon you’ll reach Shakespeare’s on the streets around Borough Market –
Globe (p210) and the Tate Modern (p208). before ending the day with a pint at
Stop at the Millennium Bridge to enjoy a London’s only remaining galleried pub,
picture-perfect view of St Paul’s Cathedral the 17th-century George Inn (p213).
27
1 Canalboats cruising along

Regent’s Canal.
2 The Cenotaph.
3 Renting bikes in Hyde Park.
4 A street performer in
2 Covent Garden.
28
2 DAYS
Day 1 Day 2
Morning Enjoy a full English breakfast in Morning Have a traditional English
Art Deco style at the St Pancras Brasserie, breakfast at the atmospheric Café in
right inside St Pancras station (p169). the Crypt (p115), below St Martin-in-the-
It’s a short stroll to the innovatively Fields church just off Trafalgar Square.
resurrected King’s Cross neighbourhood Afterwards, cross the road to the National
(p168), where you can wander the city’s Gallery (p108) and explore one of the
newest independent hub, grab a coffee world’s greatest art collections. Pick up
from one of the cafés in Granary Square something delicious for lunch from one
or Coal Drops Yard and relax in Camley of the many cafés in nearby Soho.
Street Natural Park. From here, follow the Afternoon From here, head back south
winding Regent’s Canal path to infamous to cross lively Piccadilly Circus (p114) and
Camden Market (p170) for quirky, offbeat thread through the regal streets of St
shopping and a casual lunch. James’s to the beautifully landscaped
Afternoon From Camden Town Tube St James’s Park (p95). Wander past the
station take the Northern Line down pelicans on the lake and over the blue
to Embankment – from there it’s just bridge, a great spot for photos of
a 600-m (655-yd) walk along the north Buckingham Palace (p90). If they’re open,
bank of the river to the Houses of visit the grandiose State Rooms in the
Parliament (p76), one of the great palace itself; otherwise admire the
wonders of London, and only another precious art collection at the Queen’s
300-m (330-yd) to the architecturally Gallery or the ornate carriages at the Royal
awe-inspiring Westminster Abbey (p72). Mews. Pick up bikes (p339) at the other
Evening Make your way up Whitehall, end of Constitution Hill from the palace
past 10 Downing Street (p81) and the and see out the daylight hours cycling
Cenotaph (p81), towards Trafalgar Square around the expansive Hyde Park (p257).
(p114). Once at the square stroll up Evening Park the bikes at a docking
through Chinatown (p112) to the edge station near Knightsbridge Tube and
of Soho, the West End’s most vibrant hop on the Piccadilly Line to the lively
and eclectic restaurant district. Get a Covent Garden (p126). Enjoy the street
taste of one of London’s current culinary performers in the atmospheric piazza
crazes by dining on the delectable and then settle into dinner at one of
Peruvian tapas at Ceviche Soho (p115), the many fine restaurants in the heart
before popping across the road to of Theatreland. See out the evening
Ronnie Scott’s, the city’s most famous with a drink – and great views – on
jazz club – there are dozens of great the riverside terrace of Somerset
bars near here too. House (p128).
29
7 DAYS 4
Day 1 Evening If you’ve pre-booked tickets,

Morning Start at the Shard – there’s no enjoy a performance at the refined Royal
better vantage point from which to Albert Hall (p254), or go out for dinner
survey the city (p214). Down at street in smart Kensington (p267).
level, stroll along the cobbled alleys of
Southwark and pick up lunch at Borough
Market (p213).
Day 3
Morning Head east to the City and
Afternoon Head west along the Thames
Path, popping into the cavernous Tate explore the history of the capital at
Modern (p208) to see what’s new in the the Museum of London (p185).
world of modern art. Afternoon Have lunch at Leadenhall
Evening Finish at the Southbank Centre
Market (p190). Next, take the Docklands
(p222) for a spin on the London Eye Light Railway to Greenwich to discover
(p228) and, afterwards, dinner and drinks. centuries of maritime history (p302).
Evening Walk to the top of Greenwich
Park (p303) to enjoy the sunset.
Day 2
Morning Choose from three of the
city’s top museums: the Natural History Day 4
Museum (p250), the Science Museum Morning Take the Tube north to enjoy
(p252) or the Victoria and Albert (p246). the alternative vibe at Camden Market
Any one could occupy you for a day, but (p170). Browse the stalls until lunchtime –
as they’re free, split your time across two there’s plenty here to feast on.
or perhaps all three. Afternoon Head to the characterful
Afternoon Have a picnic in nearby Hyde villages of Hampstead and Highgate.
Park (p257) before trying your hand at a Walk between the two via the heath
bit of boating on the Serpentine lake. (p290) and Highgate Cemetery (p292).
30
3
1 Leadenhall Market.
2 The Southbank Centre in the sunshine.
3 Camden Market and its food stalls.
4 Deer graze at lush Richmond Park.
5 Columbia Road Flower Market.
Evening Have a relaxed dinner at one of Afternoon Follow the river path at a
Hampstead’s excellent pubs, such as the relaxed pace to the attractive riverside
Holly Bush (p295). town of Richmond (p329). Have lunch
on the go or, better still, take a picnic
to the expansive Richmond Park.
Day 5 Evening Keep close to the Thames and
Morning Travel south to Dulwich Picture enjoy a riverside dinner as the evening
Gallery (p325) in upper-crust Dulwich draws in.
Village, taking in the gorgeous park (p325)
over the road.
Day 7
Afternoon Catch a train at West Dulwich
Morning Sunday morning is the only
station for livelier Brixton. Do the full
circuit of the Brixton Village and Market time Columbia Road Flower Market
Row arcades (p328), a foodie’s haven, (p202) operates and it’s well worth a visit,
before settling down for a late lunch. whether or not you want to buy flowers.
Here you’ll catch sight of the sellers or
Evening Stick about in Brixton for a spot “barrow boys” flaunting their impressive
of live music at one of its venues, catch displays of flowers and foliage.
a film at the Ritzy cinema or simply chill
out in Pop Brixton, a complex of shipping Afternoon Check out what’s on at the
containers packed with street food start- Barbican (p184) or Rich Mix (p202), both
ups and bars. of which have an ever-changing roster
of film screenings, exhibitions and talks.
Evening Spend the evening in super-cool
Day 6 Shoreditch. There are plenty of trendy
Morning Catch the train from London places to eat, drink and relax in, not
Waterloo to Kew Bridge; from here it’s a least on Brick Lane (p199), the curry
short walk to the gardens of Kew (p318). capital of Europe.
31
TOP
DIVERSE
5 DISTRICTS
Brick Lane
AKA the “curry capital
of Europe” and home to
a large Bangladeshi
community (p199).
DISCOVER London Your Way
Ealing
The unofficial Polish
capital of Britain – over
6 percent of people here
speak Polish.
Stockwell
Nicknamed “Little
Portugal”, there are over
30,000 Portuguese in
the local area.
Stamford Hill
London’s largest Did You Know?
community of ultra-
One in three people
Orthodox Jews live in
who live in London were
this area.
born in another part of
Southall the world.
Home to the biggest
Punjabi population
outside of India.
LONDON IS
A WORLD CITY
Sit on the Tube and listen. You’ll hear conversations in Polish, Chinese,
Yoruba and 300 other languages besides. These are the voices of London,
one of the most wonderfully multicultural cities in the world. Wherever you
go, you’ll find slices of life from every continent begging to be explored.
Places of Worship
Lighting up neighbourhoods from east to
west are spectacular places of worship,
many of them open to the public and each
one a crash-course in understanding the
cultural traditions they serve. From the
largest Hindu temple in Europe (p322) to the
towering mosque in Regent’s Park (p280),
these architectural anomalies spice up the
urban landscape wherever they stand.
BAPS Shri Swaminarayan

Mandir, an incredible Hindu
temple in Neasden
32
Festivals
Aside from the popular Chinese New Year
(p112) and Notting Hill Carnival (p268), there
are plenty of festivals that showcase London’s
locals. St Patrick’s Day in March is celebrated
with all-out revelry, as is Australia Day in
January, less raucous in numbers only. Plaza
Latina in August unites the Latin American
communities for parades and merriment, and
the fireworks of Diwali in the autumn sparkle
over the city’s skies. Whenever you visit,
there’s sure to be something to celebrate.
Entertainers contribute to
the party atmosphere at the
Notting Hill Carnival
Vibrant Chinatown, the

original home of London’s
Chinese population
Welcome to the
Neighbourhood
West Indian barbershops to
the south, Turkish grocers to
the north – London’s diversity
is palpable whichever way
you turn. Head to the East
End to find the traditional
heart of immigrant London,
where so many have settled A snapshot of
and dispersed into the the café culture in
cultural soup that is London. Brixton Market
33
Ceremonies and Traditions
A number of centuries-old royal
ceremonies and traditions continue today,
despite the sometimes baffling outfits
and proceedings. Most famous is the
Changing the Guard, which takes place
at Buckingham Palace and Horse Guards
Parade on Whitehall. Once a year, in
June, the far more elaborate military
parade Trooping the Colour is

staged to celebrate the
Queen’s birthday.
Tickets must be
booked online
(www.household
division.org.uk).
Queen Elizabeth II
waving to the
crowd during the
military parade
Trooping the Colour
LONDON FOR
ROYALTY
London has been the royal capital of the UK for almost a thousand years
and most of the royal family, including the Queen, live in the city. Over the
centuries, successive monarchs have done much to shape the character of
the city, from the landscaping of royal parks to the landmarks they left behind.
The Legacy of
Victoria and Albert
We have much to thank
Queen Victoria and her
husband Prince Albert for.
The Christmas tree, housing
projects for the poor and the
superb museums in South
Kensington are just some of
the things accredited to the
forward-thinking pair. Give
them a nod at the Queen
Victoria Memorial outside
Buckingham Palace and the
Albert Memorial in Hyde Park.
The stunning Natural

History Museum, a legacy
of Prince Albert
34
Tower of London
At times a royal palace, at others a prison and
place of execution for fallen monarchs or
rejected courtiers, the story of the Tower of
London (p180) is to some extent the story of
the English monarchy itself. Built by William
the Conqueror in the late 11th century, this
was where Anne Boleyn awaited her fate
after falling out of Henry VIII’s favour and was
later beheaded. Curiously, for 600 years it was
also home to the royal menagerie, a collection
of exotic wild animals, including lions and an
elephant, gifted to the monarchy. It is now
one of London’s most popular attractions.
Trooping the Colour, a

parade to celebrate the
Queen’s birthday
INSIDER TIP
Sneak Preview
You can catch members of the Household
Cavalry leaving the barracks on the
south side of Hyde Park at 10:28am on
weekdays and 9:28am on Sundays on
their way to the Changing the Guard at The forbidding
Horse Guards Parade. fortress of the
Tower of London
Royal Palaces
Go behind the scenes of royal
households to discover how
the upper echelons of power
have lived over the centuries.
Hampton Court (p314) is
arguably the most impressive
with its long and rich history,
while Kew Palace, surrounded
by its beautiful gardens
(p318), is relatively modest by
royal standards. Pop by the
famous Buckingham Palace
(p90), the official London
residence of the monarch
since 1837, to say hello to the
Queen – if the Royal Standard
flag is flying, she’s at home.
Visitors exploring the

interior of Hampton
Court Palace
35
Royal Parks
During a day of sightseeing
take a detour to the former
stomping grounds of kings
and queens. Boat on the lake
in expansive Hyde Park
(p257), wander handsomely
landscaped Kensington
Gardens (p256) or take in the
view of famed Buckingham

Palace from St James’s Park
(p95). Venture a little further
out and spend the day
exploring the rural landscapes
of Richmond Park (p328). A
hike up the hill in Greenwich
Park (p303) provides sweeping
views across the river, the
perfect end to any day.
Relaxing by the
lakeside in the
vast Hyde Park
LONDON FOR
GREEN SPACES
With its eight million trees and 3,000 parks, London is one of the greenest
capitals in Europe – in fact in 2019 it became the world’s first National Park
City. Take a break from the city hubbub and venture to any one of these
green spaces.
An English
City Garden
The English have long had an
unabashed love affair with
their gardens. The green-
fingered should make their
way to the gorgeous gardens
that surround manor houses
like Chiswick House (p331)
and Syon House (p329). If it’s
respite you’re after, any of
the public garden squares in
the city will do, particularly
those in Bloomsbury (p158).
The breathtaking Kew
Gardens (p318) crowns
them all and is a must for
any budding gardener.
The exquisite Kew Gardens,

a veritable haven for the
green-fingered
36
47
Percentage of green
space in Greater London,
most of which is open
to the public.
Back to Nature
There are more than 40 nature reserves and
pockets of woodland across London, some of
them not so far away from the centre. Go
bird-watching at Walthamstow Wetlands,
hunt for creepy-crawlies at Camley Street
Natural Park (p169) or walk through ancient
woodland in sylvan Highgate Wood.
Sifting for creepy- crawlies at

the Camley Street Natural Park
A Walk on the Wild Side

Linking a lot of the city’s green
spaces together, along rivers,
canals, old train tracks and
park paths, is the Capital Ring,
a painstakingly plotted 126-km
(78-mile) circular walking route.
It's well signposted throughout
the route (or download the
routes to your phone for free
on the Go Jauntly app).
A couple of couples
on the Capital Ring trail
37
Football in London
The capital city of the country
that invented the game has
more professional football
clubs and large football
stadiums than any other on
the planet. Premier League
games are usually booked
up well in advance, mostly
with corporate guests and

season-ticket holders. Your
best hope of watching some
top-level action is to try
to book in a cup match,
particularly a League Cup
game, when tickets are not
only more widely available
but a bit cheaper too.
Ecstatic Arsenal
players and fans
celebrating a goal
LONDON FOR
SPORTS FANS
Britain is a nation of sports fans and its capital is no exception. London, the
only city to have hosted the Olympic Games three times, puts on a dazzling
range of sporting events and tournaments, from football to boxing and
everything in-between.
An Olympic Legacy
Head to the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
(p312), which played host to the 2012 Olympics
and Paralympics. There are frequent events
here ranging from international track cycling
competitions to all-star basketball champion-
ships, plus a range of first-class facilities, fit for
any budding Olympian.
The Queen Elizabeth

Olympic Park, with the
ArcelorMittal Orbit
38
Sports Museums
and Stadium Tours
London’s sporting heritage is
unparalleled, with legendary
areas dotted all over. Given
their long histories they all
have stories to tell, and a tour
is the best way to hear them.
Walk through the players’
tunnel at Wembley, go behind
the scenes at the home of
rugby in Twickenham or
explore the grass courts of
Wimbledon. The oldest sport-
ing museum in the world, the
MCC Museum at Lord’s cricket
ground, is a must-visit for fans.
England’s national
stadium, Wembley
The Sporting Calendar

The Six Nations Rugby tournament kickstarts
the year, with some games held at Twickenham.
The hotly contested Boat Race brings in spring,
followed swiftly by the London Marathon and
people’s favourite the FA Cup Final. Expect
strawberries and sunburn in summer, as
crowds watch Wimbledon and cricket inter-
nationals. After the frenzy of the transfer
window, the Premier League kicks off in
mid-August. Rugby Union Internationals
and a series of NFL games round off the year.
Pounding the pavements

for the London Marathon
(above) and enjoying a game
of tennis at Wimbledon (inset)
39
The gorgeous
Albert Bridge,
illuminated at night
LONDON
ON THE RIVER
Like many cities, London grew up around its river. The Romans used it as
a line of defence, the Victorians established it as the world’s largest port
and today it’s one of the most famous waterways. Take to the water to
see London landmarks from a different angle.
Follow the Thames Path

Twisting and turning along
the river through London and
out into the countryside is the
Thames Path. Starting far to the
west of the city in the Cotswold
Hills, this National Trail’s London
section stretches from the flood-
plains of Richmond (p329) to the
Thames Barrier (p307), hardly
ever losing sight of the river.
The best stretch for sightseeing
is between Westminster Bridge
and Tower Bridge, but there
are some pretty sections, dotted
with pubs and full of greenery,
between Kew Bridge and
Hammersmith Bridge in the west.
A section of
the Thames Path,
running past City Hall
40
Spanning the River
For centuries, right up until 1750,
EAT
London Bridge was the only bridge
across the Thames in London. Now
there are more than 30 – and tunnels
too. Instantly recognizable is Tower Skylon
Bridge (p188), with its twin towers This cool, refined
and famous bascule bridge. A favourite restaurant on the
for many Londoners is the attractive first floor of the Royal
19th-century Albert Bridge, near Festival Hall, offers a
Battersea Park (p238), spectacular at fine river view and
night when it is illuminated by thou- classic British dining.
sands of lights. The somewhat eerie
 J6 ⌂ Southbank
Greenwich Foot Tunnel (p305) links
Centre ∑ skylon-
the Isle of Dogs, the home of Canary restaurant.co.uk
Wharf, and Greenwich – it’s an unusual
way to get from one bank to the other. ]]]
Snap great shots or take in the view of
the riverscape from the pedestrian Sea Containers
Golden Jubilee Bridges, flanking Tuck into a seafood
Hungerford Bridge (p224). platter or half a lobster
on the marvellous
riverside terrace.
 K5 ⌂ 20 Upper Ground
A legend SE1 ∑ seacontainers
of London, london.com
the turreted
]]]
Tower Bridge
A Thames Clipper
coasting the river
From the Water

Board a Thames Clipper rather than a sightseeing boat to cruise
the river and see the sights for a fraction of the price. There are
four main routes, all of them covering the busiest section of the
river between the London Eye and London Bridge. There are
boats roughly every 15 minutes at peak times.
41
LONDON
ON TAP
Londoners, like most Brits, come together in pubs. They eat and drink in
them, they chat and dance in them, and they watch comedy and sport
in them. And whether you’re on the river, in a park or on a busy street,
no matter the neighbourhood, there will be a pub just round the corner.
Brewing a Beer
While London’s craft brewers come up with
ever more inventive beer styles, be sure to try
traditional draught “real” ale, hand-pumped
from casks and served at cellar temperature.
Still, London’s taste for hoppy IPAs shows no
sign of dissipating, and there are more than a
hundred microbreweries and brewpubs across
the city. Tackle the Bermondsey Beer Mile on a
Saturday to try some of the best.
Some of the London-

brewed ales on offer
at a local pub
42
A Traditional Public House
The title of “oldest pub in London” is claimed
by quite a number of pubs. Though very few
pub interiors are more than 200 years old,
there have been pubs and inns in the city for
over a millennium and there are certainly a
select few establishments whose current
building dates to the 16th century. Look out
for timber-framed interiors and compartments
separated by frosted glass screens – the
classic tells of a Victorian-era pub.
The Victorian
Churchill
Arms, in DRINK
Kensington
Hoop and Grapes
This 17th-century pub
is one of the oldest still
standing in London.
 O4 ⌂ 47 Aldgate
High St ∑ nicholsons
pubs.co.uk
Ye Olde Mitre
Elizabeth I danced
around the cherry tree
still standing at this
16th-century pub.
 K4 ⌂ Ely Place
∑ yeoldemitre
holborn.co.uk
A pint of traditional
draught ale, which goes
down well with pub grub
Pub Lunch
Since the 1990s, there has
been a gastropub explosion in
London. Though many pubs
have stuck to traditional pub
grub, some can compete with
top restaurants for quality.
Among those most renowned
for their food are the Anchor
& Hope in Waterloo, the Serving up an impressive
Harwood Arms in Fulham and Sunday roast dinner at a
the Marksman in Hackney. London gastropub
43
Independent Cinemas
Intimate arthouse venues, Golden Age
auditoriums, brick-lined railway arch
establishments and trendy industrial-style
spaces are just some of the places you can
watch big screen films around the city. The
historic Regent Street Cinema, the Electric
Cinema on Portobello Road, with its diner and
leather armchairs, and the Art Deco Phoenix
in East Finchley, which opened in 1912, are

among the most memorable. Look out, too,
for a branch of the excellent cinema chains
Picturehouse, Curzon and Everyman.
INSIDER TIP
Summer Cinema Tickets
Tickets for summer screenings go on sale
months in advance and often sell out. The
best site to check for multiple venues is
thelunacinema.com. Screenings are
rarely cancelled so don’t expect refunds The plush setting of
if it rains, and bring an umbrella. the Electric Cinema
on Portobello Road
LONDON FOR
FILM BUFFS
From the grimy, sinister streets of Victorian London to the romantic home
of middle-class bumblers and eccentrics, the capital has been the backdrop
to countless movies over the decades. Here, we round up the best of
London’s film scene.
Big Screen Scenes

Finding the streets of London
familiar? It’s no surprise,
given the city’s role in film.
Hugh Grant wooed Julia
Roberts in Notting Hill and
Cillian Murphy faced a post-
apocalyptic Westminster in
28 Days Later. James Bond
fans will recognize landmarks
at every turn, particularly
after Bond’s high-speed
chase down the Thames. And
let’s not forget a certain boy
wizard, who boarded the
train to Hogwarts at King’s
Cross Station – look out for the
staged Platform 9¾ (p169).
Film fans on their way to

Hogwarts at Platform 9¾
44
British Film Institute
The British Film Institute (BFI) aims to promote
and preserve film-making in the UK. Its head-
quarters at the BFI Southbank building
(p225) are equipped with a four-screen
cinema, a film shop and a publicly accessible
film archive. The BFI organizes the London
Film Festival, which runs for 12 days every
October at cinemas around the city.
The shop at the

BFI Southbank
Summer Cinema
Every summer, dates are set
for outdoor cinema seasons.
Among the big names is the
central courtyard at Somerset
House. Rooftops are a favourite,
with screenings at the Bussey
Building in Peckham and the
Queen of Hoxton pub in
Shoreditch, among others.
Look out for the Luna Cinema,
which has a jam-packed
summer schedule at over a
dozen parks and gardens as
well as royal palaces.
Settling down to watch an

open-air film screening at
Somerset House
45
Classical, Opera and Ballet
The classical music calendar in London is
dominated every year by the Proms, eight weeks
of summer concerts climaxing at the Royal Albert
Hall (p254). There is plenty going on the rest of
the year – check out programmes at the Royal
Festival Hall (p225), the Barbican (p184) and
Wigmore Hall (p281). For
opera and ballet, head to
the sumptuous London The enthusiastically

Coliseum (p133) and the attended Last Night
Royal Opera House (p129). of the Proms
INSIDER TIP
Getting Tickets
Head to the TKTS booth
on Leicester Square for
on-the-day last-minute
and discounted tickets
for some first-rate West
End productions.
LONDON FOR
LIVE SHOWS
“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life,” Samuel Johnson famously
declared and that is as true in the 21st century as it was in the late 1700s.
With an overwhelming choice of live entertainment, from a thriving comedy
circuit to world-class theatre, visitors to London really are spoilt for choice.
Take Me to Church
There is much more to church
music than stuffy choirs and
organ recitals. Free lunchtime
events are common and
St Martin-in-the-Fields (p114)
has weekday concerts. It also
stages regular jazz concerts
at its Café in the Crypt.
St John’s on Smith Square
(p83) in Westminster has
ticketed concerts almost
every afternoon or evening.
Frequently named the city’s
best live music venue, the
Union Chapel in Islington is a
special place to hear world
and contemporary music.
A performance at
the atmospheric
Union Chapel
46
Did You Know?
Licensed Tube station
buskers must pass
auditions judged by
music industry
professionals.
Pub Performances
Some of the future greats of British music started
their careers gigging on the London pub circuit,
and legendary venues like the Windmill in
Brixton and the Dublin Castle in Camden still
host regular live performances. London’s pubs
also play a major role on the comedy circuit:
check out the Camden Head pub in Angel and
Banana Cabaret at the Bedford in Balham.
A band playing at the

Dublin Castle in Camden
A City of Theatre
The West End is the city’s answer to
Broadway, and commercial theatre,
much of it of a very high standard, is
in rude health. Independent theatre
is thriving too. The National Theatre
(p229) and the Barbican (p184)
provide audience-pulling platforms
for first-time directors and experi-
mental productions, injecting an
extra dose of creativity into London’s
theatre scene.
The renowned Les

Misérables in the West End
A Fashion Mecca
When it comes to style,
London is a city where just
about anything goes. Iconic
designers to look out for include
Vivienne Westwood and the
late couturier Alexander
McQueen, a graduate of
Central Saint Martins, the
London art and design school

renowned for churning out
superstar designers. Check
out the experimental and the
edgy at London Fashion
Week, which takes place in
February and September.
A Vivienne Westwood
show presenting her
unique collection
LONDON IN
FASHION
London is Europe’s undisputed heavyweight champion of shopping. Perhaps
best known for its luxurious department stores, the city’s thriving markets
also provide much to delight in. In these festivals of independent retail, the
walk through is at least as much fun as the eventual purchase.
Hit the High Street

Oxford Street is a bustling
2 km- (1 mile-) long parade of
over 300 shops and stores. Find
here the staples of the British
wardrobe, with flagship stores
for perennial favourites John
Lewis, Marks & Spencer and
Topshop. On adjoining Regent
Street are famous national and
international names, such as
Hackett, Barbour and Ted Baker.
The ever-popular
Oxford Street
48
Embrace Your
Independents
On every corner there are
chances to find something
unique, whether high-end
goods or vintage bargains. For
the best suits in the city, head
for the unbeatable tradition
of Savile Row and Jermyn
Street. Independent boutiques
abound in Notting Hill and
Hampstead, while for vintage
and alternative fashion you
can’t do much better than
Brick Lane and Camden.
Browsing the wares

at a vintage shop in
trendy Notting Hill
Cutting-edge
tailoring at a
London boutique
TOP
LONDON
5 MARKETS
Camden Lock Market

A canalside market, best
for alternative fashion.
Portobello Road
A long road lined with
antiques-loaded stalls.
Old Spitalfields
Market
A covered market with
themed days, like vinyl. The interior of
luxury department
Columbia Road store Liberty
Market
Cut flowers, plants and World-Class Department Stores
seedlings at great prices You can shop till you drop in London’s top department
on Sunday mornings . stores – and certainly your jaw will drop when you see some
of the prices. The sheer extravagance of Harrods is absolutely
Petticoat Lane Market worth braving the crowds for, as is the historic Liberty, housed
Historic street market, in a Tudor revival building. Selfridges, second only to Harrods
with great leather goods. in size, has built a reputation not just for the staggering
breadth and quality of its stock, but for its artistic and
innovative window displays.
49
LONDON
ON THE ROOF
London is in the midst of a tall-building boom, and as fast as the towers
shoot up, so the trend for socializing up high thrives. Popping up on
London’s rooftops are open-air cinemas, adventure playgrounds for
adults and buzzing bars – and all with superlative views of the cityscape.
Sky-High Jinks
Take to the rooftops for an evening of summer
entertainment. Roof East in Stratford is a
riotous activity playground with crazy golf,
batting cages and bowling lanes surrounded
by the obligatory street-food pop-ups. Rooftop
Film Club shows classic movies from a height,
supplying their audience with wireless
headphones and rows of deckchairs to settle
back in. Choose from one of three venues and
book your ticket in advance.
A screening of Saturday
Night Fever at Peckham’s
Rooftop Film Club
50
Rooftop Gardens
Some of the most delightful rooftops are those with gardens,
a number of which are open to the public. Book (free of charge)
to see the terraced palms and ferns of the Sky Garden (p189),
or walk through the landscaped flowerbed of the Crossrail
Place Roof Garden in Canary
Wharf. The greenery of the
Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof
EAT
Garden may be modest, but
its riverside location more
than makes up for it.
SUSHISAMBA London
An inventive menu,
The Sky Garden's
served 38 floors up.
panoramic views
 N4 ⌂ 110 Bishopsgate,
and (inset) the Crossrail
EC2 ∑ sushisamba.com
Place Roof Garden
]]]
Oxo Tower
Restaurant
Thameside location
offering adventurous
global dishes.
 K5 ⌂ Barge House St,
SE1 ∑ harveynichols.
com
]]]
Madison
In-your-face views of St
Paul’s from the terrace.
 L5 ⌂ One New Change,
EC4 ∑ madison
london.net
]]]
Take in the View

The Shard (p214), western Europe’s tallest
building, provides miles of eye-busting views
from its 72nd-floor viewing platform. The price
of a ticket is high, too, but you can opt for one
of the bars on a slightly lower floor, where the
view is the cost of a cocktail. Even closer to
earth are some of the city’s more long-lived
buildings; the viewing galleries of St Paul’s and The lights and
Westminster cathedrals present captivating landmarks of London,
vistas along with a satisfying sense of history. as seen from the Shard
51
EAT
Rainforest Café
Its jungle decorations
and juicy burgers will
delight little ones.
 J6 ⌂ 20 Shaftesbury
Ave ∑ therainforest
cafe.co.uk
]]]
Giraffe
Lively, with a varied
menu, from Japanese
dumplings to Thai
duck stir fry.
 R2 ⌂ Southbank
Centre ∑ giraffe.net
Diana Memorial
]]] Playground in
Kensington Gardens
LONDON FOR
FAMILIES
You won’t struggle to find places geared up for kids in this city, with its
innovative museums, abundance of expansive parks and family-friendly
restaurants. Although some attractions are a little pricey, there’s a huge
range of free and low-cost activities to be found.
Rainy-Day Activities
Given the unpredictable
British climate, it’s lucky that
some of the most entertain
ing experiences for kids are
indoors. The standout is
the Science Museum (p252),
a veritable world of wonder
that pairs well with a trip to
the Natural History Museum
(p250). A far less wholesome
experience is to be had at
the London Dungeon (p230),
where gory moments in the
city’s history are brought to
life. The similarly macabre
Clink Prison Museum (p214)
will delight fiendish teenagers.
Coming face-to-face with

the specimens at the Natural
History Museum
52
Let Off Steam
The hundreds of parks in London – both
large and small – provide, at the very least,
a space for kids to run around. Take your pick
of St James’s Park (p95), Holland Park (p266),
Regent’s Park (p276) and Kensington Gardens
(p256), all of which have playgrounds. As well
as climbing frames, a swing set and slide,
Hyde Park also has a lido and a boating lake
(p257). Don’t miss Coram’s Fields (p161) in
Bloomsbury, a park designed solely for
children and young people, with adventure
play areas, a city farm and a paddling pool.
INSIDER TIP
Kids Go Free
Under-11s can travel for free on public
transport when they’re accompanied by
an adult and can gain admission to most
attractions for a reduced price. At many
sights, entry is free for under-5s.
Urban Safari
Inexpensive or free, London’s
city farms are great places for
families on a budget. One of
the biggest is Mudchute Park
and Farm, near Canary Wharf
(www.mudchute.org), home
to over 100 animals. For more
exotic creatures, head to the
children’s zoo at Battersea
Park (p238), which counts
monkeys, snakes and emus
among its residents, while
for the biggest beasts make a
beeline for London Zoo (p277).
Feeding the donkeys

at Mudchute Park
and Farm
Acting Up
From traditional puppet shows to
cutting-edge plays, there are plenty of
theatres for children. The marionette
shows at the Puppet Theatre Barge in Little
Venice (p268) and Richmond offer a unique,
floating setting, while the Unicorn Theatre
in London Bridge puts on several kids’
shows a year (www.unicorntheatre.com).
A performance at the
Puppet Theatre Barge
53
Dickensian London
Inspired by the city and its
people, Charles Dickens is
inextricably linked to London.
Read The Pickwick Papers
and Oliver Twist to get you
in the mood, then tour the
streets he made famous with
Charles Dickens Walks and
Tours (www.dickenslondon
tours.co.uk). To get to know
the man himself, visit his
house, now the Charles
Dickens Museum (p159).
Victorian interior of the

Charles Dickens Museum
LONDON FOR
BOOKWORMS
If you’re a lover of books you’ll be a lover of London. Writers and
readers alike have much to celebrate in the city, with the world’s
largest library and Europe’s largest bookshop, a thriving independent
bookshop scene and a literary heritage stretching back centuries.
Recommended Reads
Dickens classics aside, there are plenty of
London-set novels to devour. Patrick Hamilton’s
Hangover Square is set in the Earl’s Court area
in 1939. There’s a strong sense of place in Zadie
Smith’s White Teeth and Sam Selvon’s The
Lonely Londoners, both examinations of the
immigrant experience. John Lanchester’s
Capital explores the dynamics on a London
street around the 2008 financial crisis.
Browsing at the Foyles

store, Charing Cross Road
54
Take a Tour
A Bloomsbury tour is a must
for bibliophiles. Walk in the Did You Know?
footsteps of the Bloomsbury
Group (p158) in and around If you read five books
Russell Square and Gordon a day, it would take
Square. Look out for towering 80,000 years to work
Senate House (p162), the your way through the
inspiration behind George British Library.
Orwell’s Ministry of Truth
in his prescient 1984, then
make a beeline for the British
Library, home to riches from
the literary world (p168).
Researchers at the British

Library, and the imposing
Senate House (inset)
SHOP
Foyles
This renowned store,
one of London’s biggest,
is a haven for book
lovers and dates back
to 1903, when brothers
William and Gilbert
began the venture by
selling the textbooks
they didn’t need.
The fivestory flagship
store on Charing Cross
Road includes a jazz
music concession, an
excellent foreign
language books section
and over 6 km
(4 miles) of shelving.
 R1 ⌂ 107 Charing
Cross Rd ∑ foyles.
co.uk
55
LONDON FOR
FOODIES
You can sample food from hundreds of countries in every imaginable
setting and on any budget in London. Shining with Michelin-starred
restaurants, the city is also in the midst of a sparks-flying street food
explosion. Here, we explore some of its must-eats.
Festival Seasoning
For more food stalls than you
can wave a bread stick at, time
your visit to coincide with one
of the city’s summer food fes-
tivals. In June, bag a ticket for
Taste of London, a fine-dining
jamboree in Regent’s Park (london.
tastefestivals.com). In July, Feria
de Londres at the Southbank
Centre celebrates Spanish cuisine
and culture. Looser and livelier
are the StrEATlife festivals held
between May and August at
Alexandra Palace (p322). The
vibe is more like a music festival
here, with DJs and bands pro-
viding the soundtrack for grazing
while gazing out over London.
Trying out nibbles at the

Taste of London festival
56
Eat the Street
TOP
LONDON
5
There are plenty of restaurants jumping
on the street food bandwagon, but genuine FOOD HUBS
on-the-hoof eats – sold from market stalls,
shipping containers, trucks and more – are Brixton Village
popping up wherever there are crowds of and Market Row
people. The best-known option – although on Old market arcades now
the pricey side – is Borough Market (p213). The heaving with cafés and
Southbank Centre Food Market (p224) is also restaurants (p328).
slap-bang in the middle of the tourist circuit
and sells breads and cheeses, as well as a Flat Iron Square
mix of British and international dishes. For Food counters in a set of
a more authentic street experience, head to railways arches (p214).
Leather Lane Market (p147), Berwick Street
Market (p118), Camden Market (p170) or The Prince
Maltby Street Market (www.maltby.st). A polished street food
hub with alfresco dining
(theprincelondon.com).
Street stall at Borough Market
selling freshly baked breads W12 Studios
Street food in the old
BBC TV Centre (w12
studioslondon.com).
Bang Bang Oriental

A specialist Asian
cuisine food hall (bang
bangoriental.com).
Le Gavroche, and
(inset) a dish from the
Connaught Restaurant
Fine Dining
With over 60 Michelin-starred restaurants, the fine dining
scene is booming. Most of the extravagant eateries are found
in the West End, the City, Kensington and Knightsbridge. They
tend to be formal affairs, but there are hipper exceptions, such
as industrial-chic tapas joint Barrafina (p115) and Cantonese
favourite Hakkasan (hakkasan.com). Most of these places build
their reputation on their chefs, like Michel Roux Jr of Le Gavroche
(le-gavroche.co.uk) and Gordon Ramsay, whose eponymous
restaurant is one of only three in the city with three Michelin
stars (gordonramsayrestaurants.com).
57
A YEAR IN
LONDON
DISCOVER A Year in London
Whatever the season, and whatever the weather, Britain’s capital

welcomes an array of festivals, with floral displays in the spring,
musical offerings in the summer, cosy cinema days in the autumn
and Christmas celebrations in the winter.
Spring
London brushes off the cold weather and kick starts the spring RELIGIOUS
season with a flurry of sporting events, including the historic CELEBRATIONS
Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge university and the London celebrates a
London Marathon. Spring also sees the city’s parks blossoming variety of religious fes
with flowers as well as the sophisticated horticultural displays tivals. Jewish commun
of the RHS Flower Show, held during May. ities gather to celebrate
1. Crowds gathering on Hammersmith bridge to watch the Boat Race Hanukkah in November
and December, and a
giant menorah is lit up
Summer in Trafalgar Square. In
Londoners make the most of the warm weather (sprinkled with October/November,
a few summer showers), socializing in the sun on rooftop bars, Diwali is also celebrated
lounging in parks throughout the weekend and cooling off in with lively street part
the city’s lidos. Festivals sweep through the streets, with Pride ies and light shows.
celebrating the LGBT+ community in July and Notting Hill
1 2
58
Carnival revelling in the rhythms of Afro-Caribbean music
TOP
ROYAL
4
in August. Food markets also attract crowds seeking local
and international grub. EVENTS
2. An extravagantly dressed participant at London’s Pride parade
Queen’s Birthday
Salute
Autumn Gun salutes at Hyde Park
and the Tower of London
September still welcomes a few outdoor events but as the
herald the Queen’s
weather cools, Londoners spend their weekends in galleries
birthday in April.
and pubs, or on brisk walks in the park. Festivities head
indoors: the BFI Film Festival takes over the city’s screens and
Trooping the Colour
Open House Weekend allows the public into iconic buildings
In mid-June a show of
for free. Come November, Remembrance Sunday sees the city military pageanty
gather to commemorate the country’s war veterans. celebrates the Queen’s
3. Exploring the Victoria and Albert Museum, the ideal spot on a cold autumn day Birthday Parade.
Buckingham Palace
Winter State Rooms Open
By December, London’s central squares and streets are bright From July to September,
with fairy lights and Christmas trees – plus several pop up Buckingham Palace’s
ice rinks. Families flock to Hyde Park for the magical Winter opulent state rooms are
Wonderland and cosy up indoors at traditional pantomimes. open to the public.
As the city enters the New Year, a spectacular display of
fireworks ignites the skies (inset) State Opening of
followed by lanterns and Parliament
parades in Chinatown for Shortly after the general
Chinese New Year. election, the Queen
travels by coach to
4. Skating at the Natural
History Museum’s
Westminster to address
popular winter ice rink the new Parliament.
at dusk
3 4
59
DISCOVER A Brief History
A BRIEF 1
HISTORY
Founded by the Romans, London changed hands many times in its first
thousand years. Devastated by fire, plague and war during the subsequent
millennium, the city rebuilt itself every time to become a centre of world
trade and the largest metropolis on the planet.
Roman London 1 A map of London

The first permanent settlement on land within what is now from 1570.
London was established after the first Roman invasion of 2 Work begins on
Britain in 55 BC, though it was not cemented until almost a Westminster Abbey.
century later, following another, greater invasion in AD 43.
The Romans bridged the river and built their administrative 3 The Battle of 1066.
headquarters, Londinium, on the north bank, the present site 4 Thousands were killed
of the City of London. The Roman occupation lasted some 350 by the Black Death
years, but following its withdrawal in the early 5th century of 1348.
during the decline of the Roman Empire, the city lay more
or less abandoned.
Timeline of events
AD 43 410
Londinium founded. Romans
withdraw
55 BC from Britain.
Julius Caesar
invades Britain.
AD 61
Londinium is sacked by
the Iceni, British Celts led 200
by their queen Boudicca.
Romans build a wall
around the city.
60
2
3 4
Saxons and Vikings

Saxon and Viking invaders fought over the city over the follow WHERE TO SEE
ing centuries, during which time its importance fell below that MEDIEVAL LONDON
of others like Winchester and Canterbury. It wasn’t until 1016 The Tower of London’s
that it recovered its status as the capital under King Canute. White Tower is likely
Edward the Confessor, one of the last AngloSaxon kings of the most complete
England, moved the base for royal government to the City of 11th-century palace
Westminster, a distinction that remains to this day. Edward also in Europe, while the
founded Westminster Abbey where, following the subsequent Museum of London
Norman invasion, William the Conqueror was crowned in 1066. (p185) contains medi-
eval artifacts. Manu-
Norman and Medieval London scripts, including the
William allowed the City of London a degree of independence, Domesday Book, are
reliant as he and his successors were on the City’s backing, with found at the British
all its wealth, for the maintenance of power. City tradesmen set Library (p168). A 14th-
up their own institutions and guilds and the first City of London century rose window
mayor was appointed in 1189. By the early 14th century London is all that remains of
enjoyed a period of relative prosperity, though much of the Winchester Palace
population, thought to be around 80,000 by this time, lived in near the Clink (p214).
poverty. This number was cut in half by the arrival of the
bubonic plague, known as the Black Death, in 1348.
872 1348
The Danes The Black Death
occupy kills half of the
London. London population.
1209
1066 Old London Bridge
Edward the Confessor completed.
buried, and William the 1381
Conqueror crowned on Peasants’ Revolt.
Christmas Day.
61
1 2
Tudor London
The Tudors’ reign began in 1485 with Henry VII. They established
peace throughout England, allowing art and commerce to
flourish. Under Elizabeth I, explorers opened up the New World,
installing London as the world’s foremost trade market. It was
also during Elizabeth’s reign that the foundations of England’s
great theatrical and literary traditions were firmly laid. The
Globe Theatre was erected in 1576 and premiered many of
Shakespeare’s plays.
Religious Strife and Civil War

Just two years after Elizabeth I’s death Catholic conspirators,
led by Guy Fawkes, attempted to assassinate King James I by
blowing him up in the Houses of Parliament. An anti-Catholic
backlash followed and religious conflict, married to a power
struggle between Parliament and the monarch, led to Civil War
in 1642. London, a Parliamentarian stronghold, became a key
battleground. Parliamentarian victory in 1649 established an
English Commonwealth dominated by Puritans under Oliver Charles I beheaded by the
Cromwell. Their rule was, however, short-lived and the Parliamentarians, led by
monarchy was restored under Charles II in 1660. Oliver Cromwell
Timeline of events
1585 1642
Shakespeare Civil War begins
arrives and Charles I decamps
in London. from London.
1665
The Great Plague
1649 kills 100,000.
Charles I beheaded
at Whitehall, 1660
Commonwealth Monarchy restored
established. under Charles II.
62
3
Devastation and Reconstruction 1 Queen Elizabeth I,

On 2 September 1666 a fire broke out at a bakery in Pudding who oversaw great
change in the city.
Lane, near London Bridge. It raged for five days, destroying
much of the City of London. The post-fire reconstruction 2 Guy Fawkes, plotting
formed the basis of the modern-day City of London. As King James I’s downfall .
settlements spread beyond the original walled city, the 3 The Great Fire of
City of London was soon stretching as far as the previously London, 1666.
separate City of Westminster.
Expansion
The foundation of the Bank of England in 1694 spurred growth
and transformed London into a global financial powerhouse.
By the middle of the 18th century London was the largest city
in Europe and within a hundred years had become the most Did You Know?
populous and wealthiest in the world. The prospect of jobs and After the Great Fire, Sir
money lured millions of the dispossessed from the countryside Christopher Wren designed
and from abroad. They crowded into insanitary dwellings, many 51 new churches for the
just east of the City, where docks provided employment. From city, plus St Paul’s
the 1820s the fields and villages that ringed the city, places like Cathedral.
Brompton, Islington and Battersea, filled rapidly with terraced
housing for the growing numbers of people.
1710 1836
Christopher Wren’s First London
St Paul’s Cathedral rail terminus
is completed. opens at
London
Bridge.
1801
1666 The first census
1802
The Great Fire of records a London West India Dock is built, the
London devastates population of over beginning of a major expansion
the City. one million. of London docklands.
63
1 2
Victorian London
Much of London today is Victorian. In this golden age of British
engineering, many of the city’s iconic buildings and structures –
the modern Houses of Parliament, Tower Bridge, St Pancras
station, the Royal Albert Hall and the London Underground –
were built. In 1855 the Metropolitan Board of Works was
created, the beginnings of a form of local government. Its chief
engineer, Joseph Bazalgette, designed a ground-breaking
underground sewer system which did much to alleviate the filth
and stink in the streets and the river, reducing the outbreaks of
cholera that had accompanied urban expansion. By the end of
the 19th century, 4.5 million people lived in inner London and
another 4 million in its immediate vicinity.
World Wars and Postwar Reconstruction

During World War I, Zeppelin airships bombed the city, but the
damage and number of casualties was nothing as compared to
the devastation wreaked during World War II. Much of London,
particularly central areas, was flattened, first by the bombing Winston Churchill,
during the Blitz of 1940–41 and then towards the end of the prime minister during
war by V-1 and V-2 rockets, early forms of cruise missiles. The World War II
Timeline of events
1837 1858 1908

Queen Victoria makes Smelliness of the London hosts
Buckingham Palace her Thames forces the Olympic
London residence. parliament into Games.
recess.
1863
1851 World’s first underground
The Great Exhibition is railway opens between
held in Hyde Park. Paddington and Farringdon.
64
3
substantial rebuilding that followed the war coincided with the 1 The Great Exhibition
decline of the docks and other Victorian industries. Enormous of 1851.
housing estates sprung up around the city, some of which 2 Sleeping in a Tube
remain today. Still around too is the Royal Festival Hall, built on station during
the banks of the Thames for the 1951 Festival of Britain, a cele World War II.
bration of British technology and culture, and later joined by 3 The Festival of Britain.
a string of Brutalist buildings to form the Southbank Centre.
Mass immigration from the former colonies of Britain’s rapidly 4 Opening ceremony,
2012 Olympics.
disappearing empire, and from the Indian subcontinent and the
West Indies, contributed to the city’s ever diverse population.
London Today
The city saw in the new millennium with a swathe of grand
building projects – the London Eye, Tate Modern and the ill
fated Millennium Dome – and cranes continue to dominate the Did You Know?
skyline in a city that never seems finished. Indeed, regeneration The Millennium Dome
reverberates around the city as it grapples to combat a housing cost over £700 million
crisis and toxic pollution levels. Despite a worrying spate of to construct.
knife crime and this cosmopolitan city’s disquiet over Britain’s
decision to leave the European Union, the enduring spirit of
the city’s inhabitants and a sense of community prevail.
1951 2000 2019

Festival of Ken Livingstone A million march
Britain held on becomes London’s through London in
the South Bank. first directly protest at the UK’s
elected mayor. decision to leave
the EU.
2005
Major terrorist
attack takes place 2012
on London’s London hosts the Olympic
transport system. Games for the third time.
65
Looking towards St Paul’s Cathedral
EXPERIENCE
Whitehall and Westminster ...................68
Mayfair and St James’s...............................86
Soho and Trafalgar Square....................104
Covent Garden and the Strand ...........122
Holborn and the Inns of Court........... 136
Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia .....................150
King’s Cross,
Camden and Islington ............................. 164
The City .............................................................172
Shoreditch and Spitalfields ................... 194
Southwark and Bankside ......................204
South Bank...................................................... 218
Chelsea and Battersea ........................... 232
South Kensington
and Knightsbridge ......................................242
Kensington, Holland Park

and Notting Hill ...........................................260
Regent’s Park and Marylebone..........272
Hampstead and Highgate..................... 286
Greenwich and Canary Wharf ......... 298
Beyond the Centre ....................................310

Inside the magnificent Westminster Abbey
WHITEHALL AND
WESTMINSTER
Whitehall and Westminster have been at the
centre of political and religious power in England
for a thousand years. King Canute, who ruled at
the beginning of the 11th century, was the first
monarch to have a palace on what was then an
island in the swampy meeting point of the Thames
and its vanished tributary, the Tyburn. Canute built
his palace beside the church that, some 50 years
later, Edward the Confessor would enlarge into
England’s greatest abbey, giving the area its name
(a minster is an abbey church). Over the following
centuries the offices of state were set up in the
vicinity, many of them in Whitehall. This grand
street took its name from the Palace of Whitehall
that once stood there, established by Henry VIII
in the early 16th century as a residence of the
royal court. The palace burnt down in 1698 but
Whitehall remained at the heart of government, its
buildings now occupied by the Ministry of Defence,
the Foreign Office, Cabinet Office and several
other prestigious government departments.
69
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INSIDER TIP
Evensong
Attend the Evensong
service to hear spell-
binding choral music
and get a glimpse inside
the abbey – free of
charge. The service,
which also includes
prayer and readings,
takes place daily, except
for Wednesday, at 5pm
(3pm Sat & Sun).
The imposing façade

of the West Front with
its two towers
72
Must See
1"'-=
WESTMINSTER
ABBEY
 I7 ⌂ Broad Sanctuary SW1 1 St James’s Park, Westminster
3 Victoria, Waterloo # Times vary for specific parts of the
church, check website ∑ westminster-abbey.org
The glorious Gothic Westminster Abbey has some of

the best examples of medieval architecture in London
and one of the most impressive collections of tombs
and monuments in the world.
Half national church, half national museum, the abbey is

part of British national consciousness. It is the stunning
setting for coronations, royal marriages and Christian worship
and is the final resting place of 17 of Britain’s monarchs.
Many of the leading lights from British history are also buried
or memorialized here, including poets and politicians,
writers and scientists.
History of the Abbey

The first abbey church was established as early
as the 10th century by St Dunstan and a
group of Benedictine monks. The present
structure dates largely from the 13th
century; the new French-influenced
design was begun in 1245 at the
behest of Henry III. It survived
Henry VIII’s 16th-century
onslaught on Britain’s monastic
buildings owing to its unique role
as the royal coronation church.
Statue of Richard I, known as

Richard the Lionheart, opposite
the rear of Westminster Abbey
CORONATION
The abbey has been the
fittingly sumptuous
setting for all royal
coronations since 1066.
The last occupant of the
Coronation Chair was
the present monarch,
Elizabeth II. She was
crowned in 1953 and
many watched the event
on TV: this was the first
televised coronation.
73
Inside the Abbey
The abbey’s interior presents an exceptionally diverse array
of architectural and sculptural styles, from the austere French
Gothic of the nave, through the stunning complexity of Henry
The West Front towers
VII’s Tudor chapel, to the riotous invention of the later 18th- were designed by
century monuments. The Weston Tower, added in 2018, Nicholas Hawksmoor.
provides access to the triforium and its Queen’s Diamond
Jubilee Galleries, packed with historical treasures.
2
1 Monument to William
Shakespeare in Poets’ Corner.
2 Executed by Elizabeth I in
1587, Mary Queen of Scots was
reburied in Henry VII’s Lady
Chapel by her son James I
(James VI of Scotland) in 1612.
3 The Westminster Abbey
choir sing from their stalls in
the quire every day. The
original quire stalls were
medieval, but the ones you
3 see now date from 1848.
1050 1245 1269 1540

Timeline
▲ New Benedictine New church begun to ▲ Body of Edward the ▲ Monastery dissolved
abbey church begun by the designs of Henry Confessor is moved on the orders of
Edward the Confessor. of Reyns. to a new shrine in King Henry VIII.
the abbey.
74
Must See
The stonework The north transept’s
here is three chapels contain
Victorian. some of the abbey’s St Edward’s chapel The Queen’s Diamond
finest monuments. houses the shrine of Jubilee Galleries are 16 m
Edward the Confessor. (52 ft) above the abbey floor.
The Lady Chapel,

with a superb
vaulted ceiling.
The Weston Tower’s

skillful craftmanship
ensures it blends
perfectly with the
original structure.
The octagonal
Chapter House
contains 13th-
century tiles.
The south transept

contains Poets’
Corner, where famous
literary figures are
commemorated.
The cloisters were

built mainly in the Cross-section of
13th and 14th Westminster Abbey,
centuries. revealing the interior
Massive flying The nave – 31 m

buttresses help (102 ft) tall – is the
spread the weight highest in England.
of the nave.
1745 1838 1953 2011

▲ West towers ▲ Queen Victoria’s Elizabeth II’s coronation ▲ Prince William and
completed. coronation. is beamed to televisions Catherine Middleton

across the nation. marry in the abbey.
75
2"'-=
HOUSES OF
PARLIAMENT
EXPERIENCE Whitehall and Westminster
 I7 ⌂ London SW1 1 Westminster 3 Victoria g Westminster Pier

# For details of tours and to buy tickets, check website ¢ Recesses: mid-Feb,
Easter, Whitsun, summer (late Jul–early Sep), conference (mid-Sep–mid-Oct), mid-
Nov, Christmas ∑ parliament.uk/visit
At the heart of political power in England is the Palace of Westminster. Built

in Neo-Gothic style it lies beside the Thames near Westminster Bridge and
makes an impressive sight, especially with the distinctive Elizabeth Tower.
For over 500 years the Palace of Westminster
has been the seat of the two Houses
of Parliament, called the Lords and the
Commons. The Commons is made up of
elected Members of Parliament (MPs)
of different political parties; the party – or
coalition of parties – with the most MPs forms
the Government, and its leader becomes
prime minister. MPs from the second largest
party make up the Opposition. Commons
debates are impartially chaired by an MP
designated as Speaker. The Government
formulates legislation which must be agreed The Houses of Parliament,
to in both Houses before it becomes law. designed by Sir Charles Barry
The Gothic Revival

Government and
masterpiece of opposing parties face
the Palace of each other across the
Westminster Commons Chamber.
The vast bell

named Big Ben
(p80) was hung
in this tower
(currently under
renovation)
in 1858. Entrance to
Westminster Hall
76
Must See
1605 1941
▼
Guy Fawkes and ▼
Chamber of House
others try to blow up of Commons destroyed
the king and Houses by World War II bomb.
of Parliament.
1042 1834
Timeline
▲ Work starts on first ▲ Palace destroyed by
palace for Edward fire; only Westminster

the Confessor. Hall and the Jewel
Tower survive.
People who come to

meet their MP wait
under a ceiling of The Lords
rich mosaics in the Chamber is
Central Lobby. upholstered
in red.
Sovereign's
entrance
Westminster Hall is one of the

surviving parts of the original
Palace of Westminster, dating The green leather benches
from 1097. of the Commons Chamber,
where the government sits
77
The stately façade

of Tate Britain, home
of British art
78
Must See
3'\-=
TATE BRITAIN
 I9 ⌂ Millbank SW1 1 Pimlico 3 Victoria, Vauxhall g Millbank Pier
# 10am–6pm daily (to 9:30pm first Fri, every month except Jan)
¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ tate.org.uk
The nation’s largest collection of British art, spanning the 16th to the
21st centuries, is held in a fabulous Neo-Classical building facing the river.
The works include sculpture and modern installation pieces, plus a separate
wing given over to the moody paintings of British artist J M W Turner.
The gallery exhibits a broad range of British

art, from Tudor portraits and 18th-century
landscapes to a large sculpture collection and
modern art. Displays change frequently and
the gallery’s broad definition of British art
stretches to work by non-British artists who
spent time in the country, such as Canaletto
and James Whistler. The gallery opened in
1897, founded on the private collection of the
sugar merchant Henry Tate and works from
the older National Gallery. The Tate includes
seven rooms added to display the paintings
of J M W Turner, one of Britain’s most revered
artists. The Turner Bequest, as it is known,
was left to the nation by Turner on his death
in 1851. It is displayed in its own wing, called
the Clore Gallery, and consists of some 300 oil
paintings, 300 sketchbooks and about 20,000
watercolours and drawings. Major temporary Turner’s Peace – Burial at Sea (1842), a
exhibitions here always draw huge crowds. tribute to his friend and rival David Wilkie
TURNER PRIZE
Every other year, Tate Britain exhibits
the shortlisted works for the presti
gious and often controversial Turner
Prize, which was established
in 1984. Representing all
visual arts, four contem
porary artists are short
listed annually on the
basis of their work
during the preceding
year, before a panel
of judges picks the
winner. Among the
most sensational of
the boundarytesting
winners have been
Damien Hirst’s
Mother and Child,
Divided (1995) and
the ceramics of
Grayson Perry
(right) in 2003.
Inside the gallery, where
art graces every corner
79
EXPERIENCE MORE
for essential building works.
4 These are expected to be
Big Ben
STAY
completed in 2021.
 I7 ⌂ Bridge St
SW1 1 Westminster
∑ parliament.uk 5"-=œ Artist Residence
Original boutique hotel
Big Ben is not the name of Jewel Tower that has ten beautifully
the world-famous four-faced designed rooms,
 I7 ⌂ Abingdon St SW1
clock in the 96-m (315-ft) including a loft suite.
1 Westminster # Apr–
tower that rises above the The restaurant and bar
Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct:
Houses of Parliament, but of are first rate.
10am–5pm daily; Nov–
the resonant 13.7-tonne bell
Mar: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun  G9 ⌂ 52 Cambridge St
inside the tower on which the
¢ 1 Jan & 24–26 Dec SW1 ∑ artist
hour is struck. It is thought to residence.co.uk
∑ english-heritage.org.uk
be named after the First
Commissioner of Works, This 14th-century building ]]]
Sir Benjamin Hall. Cast at and Westminster Hall (p77) are
Whitechapel Bell Foundry in the only remaining vestiges of
1858, it was the second giant the old Palace of Westminster,
bell made for the clock, the having survived a fire in 1834.
first having become cracked The tower was built around 6
during a test ringing. The 1365 as a stronghold for St Margaret’s Church
clock is the largest in Britain, Edward III’s treasure and today
 I7 ⌂ Broad Sanctuary SW1
its four dials 7 m (23 ft) in houses an exhibition called
1 Westminster # 9:30am–
diameter and the minute “Parliament Past and Present”,
3:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–
hand 4.2 m (14 ft) long, made which relates the history of
1:30pm Sat, 2:30–4:30pm
in hollow copper for lightness. Parliament. The display on the
Sun ∑ westminster-abbey.
The tower itself was renamed upper floor is devoted to the
org/st-margarets-church
the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 in history of the tower itself.
honour of Queen Elizabeth II The tower served as the This early 16th-century church
in her Diamond Jubilee year. Weights and Measures office has long been a favoured
A symbol the world over, Big from 1869 until 1938 and venue for political and society
Ben kept exact time for the another small display relates weddings, such as Winston
nation more or less between to that era. Alongside are the and Clementine Churchill’s.
1859 and 2017, when it fell remains of the moat and a Although much restored, it
silent while the tower closed medieval quay. retains some Tudor features,
Telephones in the
Map Room of the
Churchill War Rooms
notably a stained-glass returned to fight for the rooms below the Treasury
window commemorating the Parliamentarians in the English building, where the War
marriage of King Henry VIII Civil War. The building contains Cabinet met during World
and his first wife, Catherine a State Dining Room and the War II, when German bombs
of Aragon. Cabinet Room, where senior were falling on London. The
government ministers meet War Rooms include living
regularly to formulate policy. quarters for key ministers
Downing Street has been and military leaders and the
7 closed to the public for Cabinet Room, where stra-
Parliament Square security reasons since 1989. tegic decisions were taken.
They are laid out as they were
 I7 ⌂ SW1 1 Westminster
when the war ended, with
Laid out in 1868 to provide Churchill’s desk, communi-
a more open aspect for the 9"-= cations equipment and maps
new Houses of Parliament, Churchill War Rooms for plotting military strategy.
the square today is hemmed The Churchill Museum is a
 I7 ⌂ Clive Steps,
in by heavy traffic. Statues multimedia exhibit recording
King Charles St SW1
of statesmen are dominated Churchill’s life and career,
1 Westminster, St James’s
by Winston Churchill, glower- and the display “Undercover:
Park # 9:30am–6pm daily
ing at the House of Commons. Life in Churchill’s Bunker”
(last adm: 5pm; Jul & Aug:
Standing on the west side, features personal stories,
to 7pm) ¢ 24–26 Dec
notable figures include objects and interviews with
∑ iwm.org.uk
Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson those who worked in the
Mandela. Millicent Fawcett – This intriguing slice of 20th- War Rooms. Booking ahead
a campaigner for women’s century history is a warren of is recommended.
suffrage – is the only female
represented in the square.
THE CENOTAPH
On Remembrance Sunday
8 every year – the Sunday
nearest 11 November –
Downing Street ceremonies held around
 I6 ⌂ SW1 1 West the UK honour those
minster ¢ To the public who have lost their lives
in conflicts since World
The official home and office of War I. The Cenotaph, a
the UK’s Prime Minister is one monument on Whitehall
of four surviving houses built completed in 1920 by Sir
in the 1680s for Sir George Edwin Lutyens, is the
Downing (1623–84). Downing focal point of London’s
went to America as a boy and remembrance service,
when members of the
royal family and other
dignitaries place wreaths
The Elizabeth Tower, of red poppies at its base.
seen from Albert
Embankment
81
Henry VIII’s jousting

grounds, now Horse
Guards Parade
This was Henry VIII’s tiltyard

10 " = 11 (tournament ground); nearby
Banqueting House Horse Guards Parade is a trace of the “real tennis”
court where the king is said
 I6 ⌂ Whitehall SW1  I6 ⌂ Whitehall SW1
to have played the precursor
1 Embankment, Charing 1 Westminster, Charing
of modern lawn tennis. The
Cross, Westminster Cross, Embankment
elegant buildings, completed
# 10am–5pm daily (last
This is where the Trooping the in 1755, were designed by
adm: 4:30pm) ¢ 24–26 Dec
Colour ceremony (p59) takes William Kent. On the opposite
& 1 Jan ∑ hrp.org.uk
place each year, but you can side, the ivy-covered Citadel
This delightful building is of see royal pageantry in action is a bomb-proof structure built
great architectural importance. daily: Changing the Queen’s in 1940 beside the Admiralty.
It was the first built in central Life Guard takes place at 11am During World War II, it was
London to embody the (10am on Sunday), and there’s used as a communications
Classical Palladian style that a guard inspection at 4pm. headquarters by the Navy.
designer Inigo Jones brought
back from his travels in Italy.
Completed in 1622, its QUEEN ANNE’S GATE
disciplined stone façade
Not far from St James’s Park Tube station is Queen
marked a startling change
Anne’s Gate, a well-preserved street lined with spacious
from the Elizabethans’ fussy
terraced houses, many of which are Grade I listed. Most
turrets and unrestrained
date from 1704 and are notable for the ornate canopies
external decoration.
over each front door. At the east end of the street are
Rubens’s ceiling paintings,
houses built some 70 years later, some sporting blue
a complex allegory on the
plaques that record former residents, such as Lord
exaltation of James I, were
Palmerston, a prime minister during the Victorian era.
commissioned by his son,
It is rumoured that the British Secret Service, MI5, was
Charles I, in 1630. This blatant
formerly based in this unlikely spot.
glorification of royalty was
despised by Oliver Cromwell
and the Parliamentarians,
who executed King Charles I
on a scaffold just outside
Banqueting House in 1649.
Eleven years later, the English
monarchy was restored with
the coronation of Charles II.
The building is used today
for official functions, and
may close early when these
are scheduled: check the
website for details.
82
can see the working stables, diocese was completed in
and kids (big and small) can 1903. Its 87m (285ft) high
try on uniforms. redbrick bell tower, with
horizontal stripes of white
stone, has a superb viewing
gallery, while the Treasures of
13 " = the Cathedral exhibition dis
Guards Museum plays rare ecclesiastical objects.
The rich interior decoration,
 H7 ⌂ Birdcage Walk SW1
with marble of varying colours
1 St James’s Park # 10am–
and intricate mosaics, makes
4pm daily (last adm:
the domes above the nave
3:30pm) ¢ Mid-Dec–end
seem incongruous. They were
Jan & for ceremonies
left bare because the project
∑ theguardsmuseum.com
ran out of money. Eric Gill’s
Entered from Birdcage Walk, dramatic reliefs of the 14
this museum is under the Stations of the Cross, created
parade ground of Wellington during World War I, adorn the
Barracks, headquarters of the piers of the nave. The organ is
five Foot Guards regiments. superb; there are often free
The museum illustrates battles recitals on Sundays at 4:45pm.
in which the Guards have taken
12 " = part, from the English Civil
Household Cavalry War (1642–51) to the present.
Museum Weapons, uniforms and fascin 15 \
ating models are on display. St John’s Smith Square
 I6 ⌂ Horse Guards,
Whitehall SW1 1 Charing  I8 ⌂ Smith Sq SW1
Cross, Westminster, 1 Westminster # For
Embankment # Apr–Oct: 14 = concerts only ∑ sjss.org.uk
10am–6pm daily; Nov–
Westminster A masterpiece of English
Mar: 10am–5pm daily
Cathedral Baroque architecture, Thomas
¢ Good Fri, Marathon Day,
Archer’s plump church looks as
24–26 Dec; occasionally for  H8 ⌂ Victoria St SW1
if it is trying to burst from the
ceremonies ∑ household 1 Victoria # Cathedral:
confines of the square. Today
cavalrymuseum.co.uk 7am–7pm Mon–Fri, 7:30am–
principally a concert hall, it
7pm Sat & Sun; Tower &
A collection of artifacts and has an accidentprone history:
Exhibition: 9:30am–5pm
interactive displays cover completed in 1728, it was
daily (to 6pm Sat & Sun)
the history of the senior burned down in 1742, struck by
∑ westminstercathedral.
regiments based at Horse lightning in 1773 and destroyed
org.uk
Guards, from their role in the by a World War II bomb in 1941.
1815 Battle of Waterloo to One of London’s rare Neo There is a basement restaurant,
their service in Afghanistan in Byzantine buildings, this open 10am–5pm weekdays
the early 21st century. Visitors cathedral for the Catholic and on concert evenings.
The Life Guards,

part of the royal
Household Cavalry
83
A SHORT WALK
WHITEHALL AND
WESTMINSTER
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Time 30 minutes The meticulously

Nearest Tube St James’s Park preserved War
Rooms were
London has comparatively little monumental Winston Churchill’s
architecture, but a stroll through the historic World War II
headquarters (p81).
seat of both the government and the established
church uncovers broad, stately avenues designed
to overawe with pomp. On weekdays the streets The Treasury is
are filled with members of the civil service, while at where the nation’s
weekends they teem mainly with tourists, visiting finances are
some of London’s most famous sights. administered.
KI
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Statues of famous AR
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Nelson Mandela, ST
stand in Parliament
Central Hall is a florid example of Square (p81).
the Beaux Arts style, built in 1911 as
a Methodist meeting hall. In 1946
the first General Assembly of the
United Nations was held here.
TE
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Westminster Abbey OR
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is London’s most ST
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important church (p72). RE

ET
Society weddings BROAD SANCTUARY

often take place
in St Margaret’s
Church (p80).
Westminster School
was founded in
STR ET
Dean’s Yard in 1540.

T
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Richard I’s statue, by

Carlo Marochetti (1860),
ST
depicts the 12th-century

Coeur de Lion (Lionheart).
GR
EA
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most valuable possessions in L

the Jewel Tower (p80).
LE
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The Burghers of Calais

ST
IN
is a cast of Auguste Rodin’s

AB
original in Calais.
84
British prime FINISH
ministers have A mounted guard is
lived on ceremonially changed
Downing at Horse Guards WHITEHALL AND
Street since Parade every day (p82). WESTMINSTER
1732 (p81).
Dover House, a stately
mansion dating from Locator Map
1787, now houses the For more detail see p70
LL Scotland Office.
HA
Inigo Jones designed the

ITE
DO elegant Banqueting House,

WH
W which has a Rubens ceiling, in

NI
NG 1622 (p82).
ST
Depicting wartime uniforms, the

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RI the Queen in 2005.
CH
MO
ND
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TE dates from 1920 (p81).
RR
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The Commons Chamber

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will relocate to a redesigned

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ST
mid-2020s while the Palace

NT
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ME
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OR
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Portcullis House
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RE
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Boudicca, the British queen who resisted
the Romans, was portrayed by Thomas
Thornycroft in the 1850s.
Westminster
station
The Houses of
Parliament and Big Ben
were designed by Charles
Barry in 1834, when the
Palace of Westminster
burned down (p76).
The Burghers of
Calais statue, by
0 metres 100 N
the Houses of
0 yards 100
Parliament
85
Inside the decorative Fortnum & Mason’s department store
MAYFAIR AND
ST JAMES’S
The exclusivity of these most gentrified of London
districts, with their royal connections, stretches
back centuries. St James’s Palace was the first
royal residence to be constructed on this patch
of land, built in the 1530s by Henry VIII, who also
laid out the hunting grounds that would become
St James’s Park. During the 17th century several
large mansions were added as aristocrats sought
proximity to the royal court. Mayfair did not emerge
as a tangible district until the late 17th century
when the annual May Fair, held around present-day
Shepherd Market, was moved here. The fair was
abolished in 1764, having earned a reputation for
debauchery and rowdiness that did not sit well
with the wealthy residents moving to the area as
the city expanded westwards. Three great squares
were built and Mayfair became the property of
a small number of landed estates, the most
significant of which, the Grosvenor Estate, remains
in the hands of the Grosvenor family to this day.
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The Nash-designed Picture
Gallery has works by Italian,
Dutch and Flemish masters.
The Victorian Ballroom,

used for state banquets
and ceremonies.
EXPERIENCE Mayfair and St James’s
2
(160 m/175 yd)
Buckingham Palace,
official home of the
British monarch
1"'-
BUCKINGHAM
PALACE
 G7 ⌂ SW1 1 St James’s Park, Victoria 3 Victoria # State Rooms and Garden:
Jul–Oct 9:30am–6:30pm daily (last adm: 4:15pm); selected dates Dec–May, check
website ∑ rct.uk
The Queen’s official London residence is one of the capital’s best-recognized

landmarks. Visit its opulent State Rooms for a glimpse of how the royals live.
Both administrative office and family home,
Buckingham Palace is the official London
residence of the British monarchy. The palace
is used for ceremonial occasions for visiting
heads of state as well as the weekly meeting
between the Queen and Prime Minister. John
Nash converted the original Buckingham
House into a palace for George IV (reigned
1820–30). Both he and his brother, William IV
(reigned 1830–37), died before work was
completed, and Queen Victoria was the first
monarch to live at the palace. She added a
fourth wing to incorporate more bedrooms
and guest rooms.
Exhibits in the Queen’s Gallery, including

fine porcelain and old masters
90
Must See
The Throne Room holds thrones used
by Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke 1"=
of Edinburgh during her coronation. The Queen’s Gallery
 G7 1 St James’s Park,
Victoria # 10am–5:30pm
daily (mid-Jul–Sep: 9:30am–
5:30pm; last adm: 4:15pm)
¢ Between exhibitions,
check website
The royal family possesses

one of the finest and most
valuable art collections in
the world, including works
by Johannes Vermeer and
Leonardo da Vinci. The
Queen’s Gallery hosts a rolling
programme of the Royal
Collection’s most impressive
Traditionally, the royal masterpieces, with temporary
family waves to the crowds exhibitions featuring fine art,
from the palace balcony porcelain, jewels, furniture
during public ceremonies. and manuscripts.
2"'=
Royal Mews
 G7 1 St James’s Park,
Victoria # 10am–4pm
Soldiers taking
daily (Apr–Oct: to 5pm;
part in the
Nov: Mon–Sat) ¢ Subject
Trooping the
to closure at short notice,
Colour ceremony
check website; Dec–Jan
Head to the Royal Mews

to discover plenty of royal
pomp. Stables and coach
houses, designed by Nash
in 1825, accommodate the
horses and coaches used
by the royal family on state
occasions. The Mews’
extensive collection of
coaches, motorcars and
carriages includes the Irish
state coach, bought by
Queen Victoria for the State
Opening of Parliament; the
open-topped 1902 royal
landau, used to give the
crowds the best view of
newlywed royal couples;
and the glass coach, also
used for royal weddings. The
newest coach is the Diamond
Jubilee State Coach, built in
2012. The star exhibit is the
Gold State Coach: built for
George III in 1762, with panels
Dusk falling over the East by Giovanni Cipriani, it has
façade, which was added been used at every coronation
to the palace in 1913 since 1821.
91
2\-=
ROYAL ACADEMY
OF ARTS
 H6 ⌂ Burlington House, Piccadilly W1 1 Piccadilly Circus, Green Park

# 10am–6pm daily (to 10pm Fri) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ royalacademy.org.uk
Though it holds one of the nation’s great art collections, the Royal Academy
of Arts is most renowned for its blockbuster temporary exhibitions, as well
as its popular annual Summer Exhibition.
A storied art institution that holds one of the

country's most prestigious collections of
British art, the Royal Academy of Arts (RA)
celebrated its 250th anniversary in 2018. It has
always been led by its elected and appointed
Royal Academicians, artists themselves, whose
works make up the bulk of the permanent
collection and who help to deliver the Royal
Academy Schools’ programme. The collection
is displayed across two Italianate buildings,
palatial Burlington House and Burlington
Gardens. The two are linked by a bridge, built
to mark the anniversary. Several new galleries
including the Vaults and the Collection Gallery The exterior of Burlington House,
were opened for the occasion too. Royal Academy of Arts
Installation works on
display during the annual
Summer Exhibition
92
Must See
1 2
1 Sir Joshua Reynolds attempted to rival

Dutch master Rembrandt with this self-
portrait painted in c 1780.
2 The only marble sculpture by
Michelangelo in Britain is his Taddei
Tondo; carved in 1504–5, it depicts the
Virgin and Child with the Infant St John.
3 The Collection Gallery features
Giampietrino’s 16th-century copy of
3 Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper.
THE SUMMER EXHIBITION

The highlight of the RA calendar and
among the most talked-about events
in British art is the Summer Exhibition,
held annually since 1769. Anyone
can submit their work, for a fee, to be
considered for the show, making it a
potentially career-changing event for
unknown artists, though established
artists exhibit too. Over 1,500 entries
are selected, ranging from painting,
printmaking and sculpture to photo-
graphy, film and architecture, and
displayed to the public, for an admission
charge, between June and August in
the main galleries and spilling out
across the campus. Most of the works
displayed are for sale.
Did You Know?

Famous entrants to the
Summer Exhibition include
Sir Winston Churchill, who
submitted under
a pseudonym.
93
EXPERIENCE MORE
3 4
Pall Mall St James’s Palace
 H6 ⌂ SW1 1 Charing  H6 ⌂ Pall Mall SW1 Did You Know?
Cross, Piccadilly Circus, 1 Green Park ¢ To the

Queen Elizabeth II was
Green Park public ∑ royal.uk
born at 17 Bruton Street
This dignified street is named Built by Henry VIII in the 1530s in Mayfair, in 1926.
for the game of pall-mall – a on the site of a former leper
cross between croquet and hospital, this palace was a
golf – which was played here primary royal residence only
in the 17th century. For over briefly, mainly during the
200 years, Pall Mall has been reign of Elizabeth I and in an ancestor of the late Diana,
at the heart of London’s the late 17th and early 18th Princess of Wales, has been
clubland. Exclusive gentle- centuries. In 1952, Queen completely restored to its
men’s clubs were formed here Elizabeth II made her first 18th-century splendour. It
for members of the elite. speech as monarch here, contains some wonderful
The clubhouses now amount and foreign ambassadors paintings and contemporary
to a textbook of the most are still officially accredited furniture. The house is open
fashionable architects of their to the Court of St James’s. Its to the public on Sundays, for
era. At the east end, on the left northern gatehouse, seen guided tours only.
is the colonnaded entrance to from St James’s Street, is one
No 116, Nash’s United Services of London’s great Tudor land-
Club (1827). This was the marks. The palace remains a
favourite club of the Duke of royal residence for, among 6
Wellington and now houses the others, the Princess Royal and St James’s Square
Institute of Directors. Facing it, Princess Alexandra, and its
 H6 ⌂ SW1 1 Green Park,
on the other side of Waterloo State Apartments are used
Piccadilly Circus # 10am–
Place, is the Athenaeum during official state visits.
4:30pm Mon–Fri
(No 107), designed three
years later by the architect London’s squares, quadrangles
Decimus Burton, and long of elegant homes surrounding
the powerhouse of the British 5"' gated gardens, are among
establishment. Next door are Spencer House the city’s most attractive
two clubs by Sir Charles Barry, features. St James’s, one of
 H6 ⌂ 27 St James’s Pl
mastermind of the Houses of London’s earliest, was laid
SW1 1 Green Park # Sep–
Parliament (p76): the Travellers out in the 1670s and lined
Jul: 10am–5:30pm Sun
at No 106 and the Reform at with exclusive houses for
(last adm: 4:30pm)
No 104. The clubs’ stately those whose business made
∑ spencerhouse.co.uk
interiors are well-preserved it vital for them to live near
but only members and their This Palladian palace, built in St James’s Palace. Many build-
guests are admitted. 1766 for the first Earl Spencer, ings date from the 18th and
19th centuries and have had
many illustrious residents.
During World War II, generals
Eisenhower and de Gaulle
both had headquarters here.
Today, No 10 on the north
side, Chatham House (1736),
is home to the Royal Institute
for International Affairs.
In the northwest corner, at
No 14, is the London Library
The elegant Spencer

House, on the edge of
Green Park
The royal St James’s
Park, famed for its
floral displays
(1896), a private lending flowerbeds of the capital’s

library that was founded in most ornamental park. In
1841 by historian Thomas winter, the sunbathers are
Carlyle (p237) and others. It
offers guided tours at 6pm
on some weekdays. The pretty
replaced with overcoated civil
servants discussing affairs of
state as they stroll by the lake,
SHOP
gardens in the middle contain eyed by its resident ducks, Fortnum & Mason
an equestrian statue of geese and pelicans (which The finest foods,
William III, here since 1808. are fed at 2:30pm daily). wrapped in teal, and
Originally a marsh, the park plush sales floors are the
London Library was drained by Henry VIII and hallmarks of Fortnum &
' # For public tours; check incorporated into his hunting Mason. Established in
website ∑ londonlibrary. grounds. On his return from 1707, this is one of the
co.uk exile in France, Charles II had city’s most renowned
it remodelled in the more and extravagant stores.
continental style as pedes  H6 ⌂ 181 Piccadilly
trian pleasure gardens, with W1 ∑ fortnumand
7- an aviary along its southern mason.com
St James’s Park edge (hence Birdcage Walk,
the name of the street that
 H6 ⌂ SW1 1 St James’s
runs alongside the park where
Park # 5am–midnight
the aviary once was). over the years and was half
daily ∑ royalparks.org.uk
It is a hugely popular place wrecked by a bomb in 1940,
In summer, office workers to escape the city’s hustle but it maintains its essential
sunbathe in between the and bustle, with an appealing features from 1684 – the tall,
view of Whitehall rooftops arched windows and a thin
and Buckingham Palace, a spire (a 1966 replica of the
café that is open daily and original). The ornate screen
an attractive lake. behind the altar is one of
the finest works of the 17th
century master carver Grinling
Gibbons. The artist and poet
8- William Blake and Georgian
St James’s Church prime minister Pitt the Elder
were both baptized here.
 H6 ⌂ 197 Piccadilly W1
The church hosts concerts,
1 Piccadilly Circus
talks and events, and houses
# 8am–7pm daily
a popular café. The outer
∑ sjp.org.uk
courtyard hosts a food market
Among the many churches on Monday and Tuesday, an
Stained glass at Christopher Wren designed, antiques market on Tuesday
the Wren-designed this is said to be one of his and a crafts market from
St James’s Church favourites. It has been altered Wednesday to Saturday.
95
Tourists thronging
the Mall en route to
Buckingham Palace
heads of state fly during

9 their official visits. The annual 11 '
The Mall London Marathon finishes Marlborough House
on the Mall, amid a mass
 H6 ⌂ SW1 1 Charing  H6 ⌂ Pall Mall SW1
of crowds who cheer as
Cross, Piccadilly Circus, 1 St James’s Park, Green
enthusiastically for the weary
Green Park Park # Only for pre-booked
stragglers at the end as they
group tours ∑ thecommon
This broad triumphal do for the elated runners at
wealth.org/about-us/
approach to Buckingham the front.
marlborough-house
Palace was created by Aston
Webb when he redesigned Marlborough House was
the front of the palace and the designed by Christopher
Victoria Memorial in 1911. It 10 " \ - = Wren for the Duchess of
follows the course of the old Institute of Marlborough and completed
path at the edge of St James’s Contemporary Arts
Park, laid out in the 1660s
 I6 ⌂ The Mall SW1
during the reign of Charles II,
1 Charing Cross, Piccadilly
when it became London’s
Circus # Noon–11pm Tue–
most fashionable promenade.
Sun; exhibition space:
Down both sides of the Mall
noon–9pm Tue–Sun
the national flags of foreign
¢ Public hols ∑ ica.art
The Institute of Contemporary

Arts (ICA) was established in
1946 to offer British artists
EAT some of the facilities available

to artists at the Museum of
Modern Art in New York. It
Afternoon Tea has been situated in John
at the Ritz Nash’s Neo-Classical Carlton
The poshest afternoon House Terrace (1833) since
tea in town is accom 1968. With its entrance on the
panied by a pianist Mall, this extensive warren
and harpist. Expect contains exhibition spaces,
sandwiches, scones and a cinema, auditorium, book-
dainty pastries. Men shop, bar and restaurant. It
must wear jacket and tie. also hosts concerts, theatre
 G6 ⌂ 150 Piccadilly and dance performances,
W1 ∑ theritz and lectures. A modest fee
london.com applies to non-members,
]]] providing all-day access to
most exhibitions and events,
though access to exhibitions
is free on Tuesdays.
96
in 1711. It was substantially it was the first Classical
enlarged in the 19th century 13 church to be built in England,
and used by members of the Queen’s Chapel and features contributions
royal family. From 1863 until by both Grinling Gibbons
 H6 ⌂ Marlborough Rd SW1
he became Edward VII in 1901, and Christopher Wren.
1 Green Park ∑ royal.uk
it was the home of the Prince George III married Charlotte
and Princess of Wales and the This chapel by architect Inigo of Mecklenburg-Strelitz here
social centre of London. The Jones was built for Charles I’s in 1761. The chapel is only
building now houses the French wife, Henrietta Maria, open for Sunday services
Commonwealth Secretariat. in 1627. Originally intended to from Easter to the end of
be part of St James’s Palace, July, at 8:30am and 11:15am.
12 SHOPPING ARCADES
Green Park On and around Piccadilly
 G6 ⌂ SW1 1 Green Park, are four arch-fronted
Hyde Park Corner ∑ royal shopping arcades built in
parks.org.uk the 19th and early 20th
centuries. These elegant
Once part of Henry VIII’s covered walkways were
hunting grounds, this was, the luxury shopping
like St James’s Park, adapted malls of their day, and
for public use by Charles II in are still home to the same
the 1660s and is a natural, kinds of top-drawer
undulating landscape of grass retailers. The first one
and trees (with a fine spring to open, in 1819, was
show of daffodils). It was a the Burlington Arcade,
favourite site for duels during setting the template
the 18th century: in 1771 the for the other three: the
poet Alfieri was wounded here Royal, Princes and
by his mistress’s husband, Piccadilly Arcades.
Viscount Ligonier, but then
rushed back to the Haymarket
Theatre in time to catch the
last act of a play. Today the
park is a popular place to take
a breather from the city.
Relaxing in shady,
picturesque
Green Park
97
14 " = œ AUCTION HOUSES
Wellington Arch
Venerable Sotheby’s, Bonhams and Christie’s head
 F7 ⌂ Hyde Park Corner the list of auction houses dotted around Mayfair and
SW1 1 Hyde Park Corner St James’s. All three were founded in the 18th century
# Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm and have overseen the sale of many of the most treasured
daily; Oct: 10am–5pm daily; and expensive antiques and works of art on the planet.
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily In 1836 Bonhams sold a collection of furniture from
¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 & 31 Dec Buckingham Palace; Van Gogh’s Sunflowers sold at
∑ english-heritage.org.uk Christie’s in 1987 for £24.75 million; and in 2016 Sotheby’s
New Bond Street auction rooms sold David Bowie’s art
After nearly a century of collection for almost £33 million.
debate about what to do
with the patch of land in front
of Apsley House, Wellington
Arch was erected in 1828. Fifty years later it was enlarged
It was moved to its current 15 " = œ and altered by the architect
position, and the equestrian Apsley House Benjamin Dean Wyatt to pro
statue of the Duke dismantled vide a grand home for the
 F7 ⌂ Hyde Park Corner
in the 1880s. The sculpture by Duke of Wellington. His dual
W1 1 Hyde Park Corner
Adrian Jones of Nike, winged career as both soldier and
# Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Wed–
goddess of Victory, was added politician brought him victory
Sun; Nov & Dec: 10am–4pm
in 1912. Before it was installed against Napoleon at Waterloo
Wed–Sun; Jan–Mar: 10am–
Jones seated three people (1815) and two terms as prime
4pm Sat & Sun ¢ Christmas
for dinner in the body of one minister (1828–30 and 1834).
wk ∑ wellingtoncollection.
of the horses. Set against sumptuous silk
co.uk
Exhibitions are held in the hangings and gilt decoration
inner rooms of the arch, while Apsley House, or Number One is the duke’s art collection:
a viewing platform beneath London, as it is also known, at works by Goya, Velázquez,
the sculpture has great views the southeast corner of Hyde Titian and Rubens hang
over the royal parks and the Park, was completed by Robert alongside displays of porcelain,
gardens of Buckingham Palace. Adam for Baron Apsley in 1778. silver and furniture. Ironically,
the duke’s memorabilia is
dominated by Canova’s
colossal statue of Napoleon.
STAY
16 " ' =
Claridge’s
Handel & Hendrix A historic and glam
in London hotel in an Art Deco
 G5 ⌂ 25 Brook St building, this London
W1 1 Bond Street classic has been
# 11am–6pm Mon–Sat in business since
A bust of Handel at the 1812. Join celebs and
∑ handelhendrix.org
Handel & Hendrix in royalty and stay in
A pair of Georgian houses on London museum one of over 200
Brook Street have a couple luxurious rooms.
of notable, very different,  G5 ⌂ 49 Brook St W1
musical connections. The attic apartment next door, ∑ claridges.co.uk
composer George Frideric which has also been lovingly
]]]
Handel lived at No 25 from restored to resemble his
1723 until his death in 1759, former apartment, complete
and his rooms have been with 1960s decor. Check the
restored to the early Georgian website for late-night openings
appearance they would have and Hendrix-themed events.
had during the composer’s largest, and has had ongoing
time, with portraits and political connections with the
musical instruments on USA since John Adams – the
display. The museum hosts 17 second US president – lived at
changing exhibitions and Grosvenor Square No 9 between 1785 and 1789.
regular recitals in an intimate The west side is dominated
 F5 ⌂ W1 1 Bond Street
performance space. In 1968, by the former US Embassy.
Jimi Hendrix moved into the Mayfair has long been home Having closed in 2017, the
to some of the grandest Eero Saarinen-designed
addresses in all of London, Brutalist building is being
most notably in a series of redeveloped as a luxury 137-
prestigious squares, originally room hotel by lauded David
laid out in the early 18th Chipperfield Associates, slated
century and still retaining to open in 2023. A statue of
many Georgian buildings. Franklin D Roosevelt – the
Grosvenor Square is the 32nd US president – stands
at the centre of the square.
18 ' -
Faraday Museum
 G5 ⌂ The Royal
Institution, 21 Albemarle St
W1 1 Green Park # 9am–
5pm Mon–Fri ¢ Christmas
wk & public hols ∑ rigb.org
Michael Faraday was one of

the 19th-century pioneers of
the uses of electricity. Part of
the Royal Institution, a body
dedicated to scientific study,
the museum includes a
recreation of Faraday’s
laboratory and some of his
Londoners enjoying the sun scientific apparatus, as well as
in Grosvenor Square; a portico exhibits on the work of other
(inset) providing shade great scientists.
99
A SHORT WALK
ST JAMES’S The Albany mansion
has been one of
Distance 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Time 35 minutes
London’s smartest
Nearest Tube Green Park
addresses since it
opened in 1803.
After Henry VIII built St James’s Palace in the 1530s, EG
R
EN
the area around it became the centre of fashionable T
London, and it has remained so ever since. Its historic
streets, squares and arcades attract a thoroughly
international – and extremely wealthy – set.
SA
A walk through the district will take you past the
CK
flagship stores of exclusive global brands and
VI
LL
classic British names that have served royalty
E
and aristocracy for centuries, as well as the Royal
ST
Academy and many independent art galleries.
RE
ET
OL
D
BO
Y
ILL
ND
C AD
ST
Sir Joshua Reynolds founded P IC

RE
the Royal Academy of Arts in 1768.

ET
Now it mounts large popular

exhibitions (p92).
Uniformed beadles
discourage unruly behaviour
in the Burlington Arcade, a
19th-century mall (p97).
Fortnum & Mason

was founded in 1707 by
one of Queen Anne’s
footmen (p95).
ST
ST
JA
D ER
ME
RY
S’
Named after César Ritz,

S
and opened in 1906,

ST
the Ritz Hotel still lives

RE
up to his name.
ET
E
Ryder Street is lined AC
with art galleries. PL
’S
ES
J AM RE
ET
T ST
An ancestor of Princess S ’S
Diana built Spencer ES
M
JA
House in 1766 (p94). ST
LE
TT
LI
Clarence House was
Did You Know? designed by John Nash
for William IV, and is
Hatchards on now Prince Charles’s
Piccadilly is London’s London home.
oldest bookshop,
opened in 1797.
0 metres 100 N START LE
AB
ST ARD
0 yards 100 Y
100
Piccadilly derives its
name from the ruffs, MAYFAIR AND
or “pickadills”, worn by ST JAMES’S
17th-century dandies.
Jermyn Street is one of

London’s most elegant
Piccadilly Circus streets, lined with shops
Locator Map
station for style-conscious men.
For more detail see p88
ST
REE
T
Y CIRC
ICC DILL
US
The crowds and dazzling neon

A
lights make Piccadilly Circus

FINISH P the West End’s focal point (p114).
LO
W
The organ in Christopher

ER
Wren’s favourite church,

RE
St James’s, was brought

GE
ET here from Whitehall Palace

RE
NT
ST in 1691 (p95).
YN
ST
RM
JE
RE
DU
ET
KE
Pall Mall’s famous

OF
clubs provide a haven

ET for businessmen (and
YO
RE
ST a few women) (p94).
RK
II
L ES
AR
ST
CH
W
AT
ER
LO
ST
O P
JA
ET
ME
LA
RE ’S
ST E
S
SQUAR
CE
NG
KI
LL
MA
LL
PA
MA
William III’s statue

RL
dominates St James’s
BO
Square (p94).
RO
UG
H
RO
The Tudor St James’s Palace is St James’s Square, with

AD
still the Royal Court’s official the statue of William III

headquarters (p94). at its centre
101
A LONG WALK
MAYFAIR TO BELGRAVIA
Distance 5 km (3 miles) Time 70 minutes
Nearest Tube Green Park
This picturesque walk takes you from Green

Park to Hyde Park, through the hearts of
Park Lane, once the city’s
Mayfair and Belgravia, two of London’s most most desirable residential
elegant Georgian residential districts. It street, is home to some of
includes a bracing stroll through Hyde Park London’s priciest hotels.
and, if you’re feeling more energetic, you
can rent a rowing boat on the Serpentine. O RD ST RD
Marble Arch O X F
Marble Arch OXFO
You’ll spot a number of cosy pubs and pretty
ROW ROW
cafés along the way where you can pop in OA D ROA D
Marble Marble
R R
TH TH
R NOR NOR
W A T EA Y S W A T E
PA R
PA R
Arch Arch EET
for a break. B AY S B STR ST
K
EEN EEN
GR GR
STR
STR
R RIN G
THE T HI EN G
EET
EET
Speaker'sSpeaker's ROO
KS
T
O
BRO
Corner Corner U P P E R B UPP
ER
ST
S S
ROS ROS
CUL CUL
Enter Hyde Park and look out
PA
PA
for Speaker’s Corner (p257),
RK
RK
where on Sundays anyone can GROSVENOR GROSVENOR
GATE GATE
make a speech on any topic.
LA
LA
N
N
PA R
E
K
ST
H y dHe y d e
Cross the park, enjoying the
view on all sides, and make for the P a r Pk a r k
P
Boat House where you can rent a
rowing boat from April to October.
Boat Boat Serpentine

Serpentine
House House Bar and Kitchen
Bar and Kitchen
SER SER
PEN PEN
Turn le and follow TIN
E
ROA
TIN
E
ROA
D
the path beside the lake to
the Serpentine Bar and
Kitchen for refreshments. R O T T E NR O T T E N R O W R O W
V E
D R I D R I
I A G E I A G E
C A R R C A R R
GE GE
S O U T H S O U T H
T S B R I D HT S B R I D
GH G
Pass the Pantechnicon, an KNI KNI
eccentric 1830 structure fronted K N I G H T SKBNRIIGDHGTES B R I D G EKnightsbridge
Knightsbridge
by colossal Doric columns. It is
now a fashion and culinary hub. Nags Nags
TREVOR TREVOR Head Head
S LOA
S LOA
T
SQUARE SQUARE
EE
EE
RD S T R
STR
NE
NE
ST
ST
Pantechnicon
Pantechnicon
RD
Cross Knightsbridge and stroll

B
B
M
BE
CO
CO
over to one of the city’s most

OT
OT
S
N
TO O
IL
IL
famous department stores, P PT

BAS
BAS
M Harrods
M Harrods
Harrods (p254). Alternatively, O O
BR BR
Harvey Nichols is just by B E LG RBAV
E LG
I A R AV I A
BE BE
Knightsbridge station. AU AU
ST
ST
CH CH
AM AM
P P ET ET
PL PL
T STRE T STRE
PON PON
As you wander into Belgravia, stop

by the Nag’s Head, one of London’s
smallest pubs. A pretty mews also
runs off the same street as the pub.
102
Offfice workers
Mayfair to enjoying the
Belgravia sunshine in
Berkeley Square
MAYFAIR AND
ST JAMES’S
Locator Map
For more detail see p88 and p244
Make your way north to the

peaceful haven of Mount
ST
BAL TREET
BAL TREET
DUK
DUK
Street Gardens, which backs

S
S
DER
DER
on to the Jesuit Church of the

E
W
TO N
TO N
STR
STR
ET
Immaculate Conception.
TRE
EET
EET
EET EET
STR STR
S T GROSVENORGROSVENOR R R
OK V ENO V ENO
SQUARE SQUARE S S
GRO GRO ST ST
ST OW N N
T R RRODWO R D OS T ST
MO
UN U NOTU
MO B BOU
N N
Leafy Berkeley Square,
U TO U TO is home to some splendid
BR BR
O
M A Y F AMI AR Y F A I R
LD
LD
18th-century houses.
BERKELEY BERKELEY
ST MountS TStreet
Mount Street SQUARE SQUARE
BO
BO
T T
OUN OUN Gardens Gardens
DO
DNOD
ND
M M
T T
VE
V
BE
BER
EE EE
ER
RK
RK S T
N
R R
PA R
ST ST
ST
ST
EL
EL
E
S TR
SOU
SOU
ET ET
EY
T ET
RE
E E
Y
EE
K
STR S TLRL
EE
LL RE Keep to the south of

ET
I I R
T
ST ST
TH
TH
TH TH H H
ST
SOU SOU the square and turn

ST
ST
ST
ST
S S
AUD
AUD
LE LE
CHAR CHAR into Charles Street,
RE
RE
ON
ON
SETT
ST
ET
RZ
RZ
LEY
LEY
noting the evocative

CU
CU
JA
JA
START The The

ME
ME
lampholders at
PA
PA
ST
ST
Ritz Ritz
HA
HA
S’
S’
EET T D
L F ST
L F ST
HERD Nos 40 and 41.

RK
RK
STR R EEEPHERT
S T SH SHEPRKET
M
E
MAARRKK E T
OO
OO
ZON ZOR KNE T MA Green Green

ST
ST
CUR C U RM A E W S M
N
EWS Park Park

RE
RE
M M
LA
LA
QU
QU
ET
ET
TRE
ET
TRE
ET Y Y
D S D S
L L
EE
EE
NE
NE
TF O R F O R IL IL
N'
N'
HER ERT D D
ST H ST
S
K K A A
IC IC C C
WA
WA
BR BR C I IC
LK
LK
P P
Green Green
OL LA
OL LA
Hop off at Green Park

D NE
D NE
PA
PA
AD Park Park
RK
RK
Apsley Apsley Station and pause at

House House the beautiful Ritz hotel
(p96), then take a le
V E Hyde Park Hyde Park Corner
Corner up Berkeley Street.
FINISH
Wellington
Wellington
Arch Arch
Grab a bite to eat in
GR PL
GR PL
Shepherd Market,
OS
OS
V V
CRESCE OR
CRESCE OR
AC E N AC E N
NT
NT
which was laid out by

G RO SV E N
G RO SV E N
E O E O
R R
Edward Shepherd who
also built the nearby
Crewe House in 1730.
ST
ST
EL
EL
AP
AP
ELGRAVE BELGRAVE
CH
CH
SQUARE SQUARE
Finish your walk at

Hyde Park Corner
station. Here you can
choose to spend more
time in either of the
nearby Royal Parks.
0 metres 0 metres 400 N 400 N Alfresco dining at the stylish cafés

0 yards 0 yards 400 400 found in Shepherd Market
103
The celebrated Kingly Court food market in Soho
SOHO AND
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Formerly used as royal hunting grounds, Soho was
first developed in the late 17th century by wealthy
landowners. Its aristocratic residents, in contrast
to those in neighbouring Mayfair, soon moved on
and their influence on the character of the area
went with them. Instead, the district became
synonymous with bohemians and immigrants.
French Huguenots, Jews, Greeks, Italians, Maltese,
Chinese and others all came to Soho in significant
numbers between the end of the 17th and the
mid-20th centuries. Artists, writers and musicians
flocked here too, as did gangsters and prostitutes,
and the area retained an edgy, alternative air until
the late 1980s. In contrast, Trafalgar Square, with
its grandiose buildings and proximity to Whitehall,
has always had closer ties to the establishment,
though it has also long been a place of protest. For
centuries the site of the royal stables (or mews),
the square itself is a 19th-century construct, given
its name in 1830.
105
ET ET
PO R T
PO R T
RE RE
ST ST
GR
GR
TO
L AN
L AN
ER ER
EAT
EAT
TT
IM IM
RT RT
E
MO MO
D
D
W W
EL EL
PO
PO
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1'\-=
NATIONAL
GALLERY
EXPERIENCE Soho and Trafalgar Square
 S3 ⌂ Trafalgar Sq WC2 1 Charing Cross, Leicester Sq, Piccadilly

Circus 3 Charing Cross # 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Fri) ¢ 24–26 Dec,
1 Jan ∑ nationalgallery.org.uk
Erected in the heart of the West End in order to be accessible by all,

the National Gallery houses some of the most famous paintings in the
world, by masters such as Rubens, Velázquez, Monet and Van Gogh.
The National Gallery has flourished The Collection

since its inception. In 1824 the House The National Gallery’s paintings are
of Commons was persuaded to buy mostly kept on permanent display.
38 major paintings, including works The collection spans late-medieval
by Raphael and Rubens, and these times to the early 20th century,
became the start of a national including Renaissance Italy and the
collection. Today the gallery has French Impressionists. There are
more than 2,300 paintings produced works by artists such as Botticelli,
in the Western European painting Leonardo, Monet and Goya, and
tradition. The main gallery building, highlights include Van Eyck’s Arnolfini
designed in Greek Revival style by Portrait, Velázquez’s Rokeby Venus,
William Wilkins, was built between Raphael’s The Madonna of the Pinks
1833 and 1838. It was subsequently and Van Gogh’s Sunflowers.
enlarged and the dome added in 1876.
To its left lies the Sainsbury Wing,
financed by the grocery family and
completed in 1991.
The National Gallery,

overlooking Trafalgar Square
Groups of visitors
studying works by
the masters in the
airy galleries
GALLERY GUIDE
Most of the collection is housed on one floor divided into
four wings. The paintings hang chronologically, with the
earliest works (1200–1500) in the Sainsbury Wing. The West,
North and East Wings cover 1500–1600, 1600–1700 and 1700–
1930. Lesser paintings from all periods are on the lower floor.
108
Must See
Did You Know?

Turner’s The Fighting
Temeraire is featured,
alongside the artist’s
self-portrait, on the
UK’s £20 note.
Pausing for thought

in front of some of the
gallery’s masterpieces
109
hangs beside another, by
Masaccio – both from the INSIDER TIP
1420s. Also shown are works Get a Guide
by Masaccio’s pupil, Fra If you are short of time
Filippo Lippi, Botticelli and join a one-hour guided
Uccello. Raphaels include the tour that takes place
famous Madonna of the Pinks, daily at 2pm. These
displayed near Piero della informative tours
Francesca’s Nativity and take in the gallery’s
Baptism. There is also a fine most iconic works.

collection of Mantegna, Bellini
and other great works from
the Venetian, Paduan and Cupid, Raphael’s original
Ferrarese schools. Antonello portrait of Pope Julius II and
da Messina’s Saint Jerome in several Titians, including
his Study has been mistaken Bacchus and Ariadne – which
Dating from 1437, Piero for a Van Eyck; it is not hard to the public found too garish
della Francesca’s The see why when you compare it when it was cleaned in the
Baptism of Christ with Van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait. 1840s. The Netherlandish
Other Netherlandish artists and German collections
on display include Rogier van include The Ambassadors,
The Sainsbury Wing: der Weyden and his followers. a fine double portrait by
1200–1500 There is also a Hieronymus Holbein; and Altdorfer’s
Three lustrous panels from Bosch of Christ Mocked superb Christ Taking Leave
the Maestà, Duccio’s great (sometimes known as The of his Mother. There are also
altarpiece in Siena cathedral Crowning with Thorns). Room several Bruegels, including
and his outstanding Virgin 66 is largely devoted to The Adoration of the Kings.
and Child with Saints Dominic Leonardo da Vinci’s second
and Aurea are among the Virgin of the Rocks, which is The North Wing:
earliest paintings here. The hung alongside the prepara 1600–1700
fine Wilton Diptych portraying tory charcoal Virgin and Child. The superb Dutch and
England’s Richard II may be Flemish collection includes
by a French artist. It displays The West Wing: the largest number of works
the lyrical elegance of the 1500–1600 by Rembrandt outside of
International Gothic style. Sebastiano del Piombo’s The Amsterdam, including his
Italian masters of this style Raising of Lazarus was painted, poignant Self-Portrait at the
include Pisanello and Gentile with Michelangelo’s help, to Age of 63. Van Dyck and the
da Fabriano, whose Madonna rival Raphael’s Transfiguration, prolific Rubens, too, are each
which hangs in the Vatican in amply represented, and there
Rome. Other highlights of are also works by Vermeer
TOP
PAINTINGS
5
the High (or Late) Renaissance and Franz Hals. French works
NOT TO MISS include Agnolo Bronzino’s include a grand portrait of
mysterious, erotic Venus and Cardinal Richelieu by Philippe
The Arnolfini Portrait
Jan van Eyck
Room 63
The Rokeby Venus

Diego Velázquez
Room 30
The Hay Wain

John Constable
Room 34
The Fighting
Temeraire
J M W Turner
Room 34
Sunflowers
Vincent Van Gogh The luminous, classical landscape of Turner’s
Room 43 Dido building Carthage, which is one of his most
important works of art
110
Must See
de Champaigne. Claude’s represented by several of his Examining Canaletto’s

seascape Seaport with the portraits. Hogarth’s satirical famous work, The
Embarkation of the Queen of Marriage à-la-mode series is Stonemason’s Yard
Sheba hangs beside Turner’s another highlight.
rival painting Dido building The great age of 19th-
Carthage. The glorious Spanish century landscape painting other French avant-garde
collection has works by Murillo, is amply represented as well, artists are well represented.
Velázquez and Zurbarán, and with fine works by Turner Among the highlights are
Italians Caravaggio and and Constable, including The Water-Lily Pond by Monet,
Carracci are well represented, Constable’s moody The Hay Renoir’s At the Theatre, Van
though Guido Reni’s vast Wain and Turner’s late-career Gogh’s Sunflowers, and
Adoration of the Shepherds painting The Fighting Temeraire. Rousseau’s Surprised! In
dominates all else. There are also works by the Seurat’s Bathers at Asnières
French artists Corot and he did not originally use his
The East Wing: Daubigny, which are often pointillist technique, but only
1700–1930 displayed downstairs. later reworked areas of the
One of the gallery’s most Of Romantic art, there is picture using dots of colour.
famous 18th-century works is Géricault’s vivid work, Horse
Canaletto’s The Stonemason’s Frightened by Lightning and
Yard, which shows a tradi- A Shipwreck, which possibly
tional Venetian view, and prefigures his The Raft of
was thought to have been the Medusa. In contrast, the
commissioned by a local society portrait of Madame
patron. Other Venetians Moitessier by Ingres, though
here are Longhi and Tiepolo. Romantic, is restrained and
The French collection includes Classical. Impressionists and
Rococo masters Chardin,
Watteau and Boucher.
Gainsborough’s early work
Mr and Mrs Andrews and The One of the highlights
Morning Walk are popular; his of the collection, Van
rival, Sir Joshua Reynolds, is Gogh’s Sunflowers
111
2\-= CHINESE NEW YEAR
CHINATOWN
 R2 ⌂ Gerrard St and around W1 1 Leicester Sq,
Based on lunar cycles,
Chinese New Year falls
between 21 January
and 20 February. It is
Piccadilly Circus ∑ chinatown.co.uk raucously celebrated in
Chinatown in a sea of
Though much smaller than its equivalents in New York
red paper lanterns, to

City and San Francisco, London’s Chinatown packs a the noise of firecrackers
punch. There are restaurants aplenty and a constant and the aromas of
buzz that attracts countless locals and visitors. Chinese street food.
Though celebrations
Chinatown occupies the small network of pedestrianized last for a fortnight, the
streets north of Leicester Square and revolves around the main event usually
main drag, Gerrard Street. Historically, the Chinese community falls on a Sunday when
in London, who total more than 120,000, came predominantly a parade makes its way
from Hong Kong and were concentrated initially in Limehouse, through Chinatown.
in the East End. The current base in Soho was established in the Shaftesbury Avenue
1960s, though the Chinese population is now widely dispersed is closed to traffic and
across the city. Today, Chinatown is an intense little precinct stages are erected
marked by ornamental archways and, more often than not, there and in Trafalgar
strewn with paper lanterns. It is packed overwhelmingly with Square for dance and
authentic restaurants and Chinese supermarkets, with bakeries martial arts shows.
and bubble tea shops, and herbal medicine, acupuncture and
massage centres filling the gaps.
Gerrard Street, at the heart

of Chinatown, during
Chinese New Year
112
2
1 Ornate Chinese arches stand over

the area of Chinatown in Soho.
2 There are many authentic places
to try a variety of Chinese cuisines
from all over China.
3 Traditional Chinese goods are on
sale in the shops around Chinatown.
3
EAT
Shu Xiangge
Specialists in traditional
Sichuan hotpot, with 80
different ingredients to
add to their fragrant,
communal broths. The
authentic interior has a
hand-painted mural.
⌂ 10 Gerrard St W1
]]]
XU
Atmospheric Taiwanese
Did You Know? restaurant which
re-creates the look of a
There are nearly 80 1930s Taipei social club,
restaurants packed into with wood panelling,
Chinatown. hand-painted murals
and a tea room on the
ground floor. The food is
modern, a fusion of
Taiwanese and
Cantonese cuisine.
⌂ 30 Rupert St W1
∑ xulondon.com
]]]
113
EXPERIENCE MORE
art displays, as artworks are From 1914 until 1927, the
3 commissioned specially for it, crypt was used as a shelter for
Trafalgar Square and change every year or two. homeless soldiers and others;
during World War II it was an
 S3 ⌂ WC2 1 Charing
air-raid shelter. It is still today
Cross
well known for its work on
London’s main venue for 4-= behalf of the homeless and
rallies and outdoor public St Martin-in-the- vulnerable. The crypt also
meetings was conceived by Fields contains a café, a gift shop
John Nash and was mostly and a brass rubbing centre,
 S3 ⌂ Trafalgar Sq WC2
constructed during the 1830s. which is open daily. Lunchtime
1 Charing Cross # 8:30am–
The 52-m (169-ft) column (free) and evening concerts
6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat
commemorates Admiral Lord (tickets required) are held in
& Sun ∑ stmartin-in-
Nelson, Britain’s most famous the church and weekly jazz
the-fields.org
sea lord, who died heroically evenings in the café. All are
at the Battle of Trafalgar in There has been a church on welcome at the daily services;
1805. It dates from 1842; 14 this site since the 13th century. check the website for times.
stonemasons held a dinner on Famous people buried here
its flat top before the statue include Charles II’s mistress
of Nelson was finally installed. Nell Gwyn, and the painters
Edwin Landseer’s four lions William Hogarth and Joshua 5\-=
guard its base. The north side Reynolds. The present church Piccadilly Circus
of the square is now taken up was designed by James Gibbs
 Q3 ⌂ W1 1 Piccadilly
by the National Gallery (p108), and completed in 1726. In archi-
Circus
with Canada House on the west tectural terms it was one of
side and South Africa House the most influential ever built; For years people have been
on the east. Three plinths it was much copied in the US, drawn to gather beneath
support statues of the great where it became a model for Piccadilly Circus’s centrepiece,
and the good; funds ran out the Colonial style of church the statue of Eros, originally
before the fourth plinth, on architecture. An unusual intended as an angel of mercy
the northwest corner, could feature of the interior is the but renamed in the public
be filled. It now hosts one of royal box at gallery level to imagination after the Greek
London’s most idiosyncratic the left of the altar. god of love. Poised delicately
Looking across
Trafalgar Square to St
Martin-in-the-Fields
EAT
Café in the Crypt
Popular, licensed
canteen with simple
food under the arches of
a church crypt.
 S3 ⌂ St Martin-in-the-
Fields, Trafalgar Sq WC2
∑ stmartin-in-the-
fields.org
]]]
Barrafina
The bustling pavements of Piccadilly
Ultracool Spanish
Circus, overseen by the statue of Eros
joint with industrial
modern decor.
with his bow, Eros has established here, including the  R2 ⌂ 26 Dean St W1
become almost a trademark Empire (today the cinema on ∑ barrafina.co.uk
of the capital. It was erected the same site perpetuates the ]]]
in 1892 as a memorial to name) and the Alhambra,
the Earl of Shaftesbury, replaced in 1937 by the Art Ceviche Soho
the Victorian philanthropist. Deco Odeon. The TKTS booth, Stylish Peruvian
Part of Nash’s master plan located in the square, is a restaurant; try the sea
for Regent Street, Piccadilly must-visit for cut-price theatre bass ceviche washed
Circus has been considerably tickets. There is also a statue down with a Pisco Sour.
altered over the years and of Charlie Chaplin, which was
 R2 ⌂ 17 Frith St W1
consists for the most part unveiled in 1981, while the
∑ cevichefamily.com
of shops selling souvenirs statue of William Shakespeare
for visitors and high-street dates from 1874. ]]]
chains. The huge and gaudy, The area around the Tube
curved digital advertising station here can be very Kricket
screen marks the entrance congested at any time of the Gourmet Indian food
to the city’s lively entertain- day or night; the streets of served in tapas-
ment district with its cinemas, Soho and Chinatown to the style portions.
theatres, nightclubs, pubs north (p112) can be a better
 Q2 ⌂ 12 Denman St
and restaurants. bet for a meal or drink. W1 ∑ kricket.co.uk
]]]
6\-= 7'\-=
Pastaio
Leicester Square National Portrait Trendy pasta specialist
Gallery with communal seating.
 R2 ⌂ WC2 1 Leicester
Sq, Piccadilly Circus  S3 ⌂ 2 St Martin’s Place  Q2 ⌂ 19 Ganton St W1
WC2 1 Leicester Sq, Charing ∑ pastaio.co.uk
It is hard to imagine that this,
Cross ¢ For refurbishment ]]]
the perpetually animated heart
until 2023 ∑ npg.org.uk
of the West End entertainment
district, was once a fashionable Set somewhat unfairly in the
place to live. Laid out in 1670 shadow of the more popular
south of Leicester House, a National Gallery (p108) next
long-gone royal residence, the door, the National Portrait major refurbishment; it is
square numbered among its Gallery, with over 215,000 scheduled to re-open in 2023.
occupants the scientist Sir Isaac separate works spanning six During the closure, artworks
Newton and the artists Joshua centuries, holds one of the from the collection will be
Reynolds and William Hogarth. world’s greatest collection displayed in the National
In Victorian times, several of portraits. In June 2020, the Gallery, as well as at various
popular music halls were gallery closed its doors for a locations across the UK.
115
Trafalgar Square, overlooked by Nelson’s Column and surrounded by grand buildings
Shaftesbury Avenue,
the heart of London’s
theatre district
rising rents. However, you will

8\-= find the flagship store of the 10 \ - =
Charing Cross Road venerable Foyles bookshop Berwick Street
located here; founded in 1903, Market
 S2 ⌂ WC2 1 Leicester Sq
it is the largest in the UK. At
 R2 ⌂ W1 1 Piccadilly
Once London’s favourite the junction with New Oxford
Circus # 8am–6pm Mon–
street with book lovers, with a Street rises the 1960s Centre
Sat ∑ thisissoho.co.uk/
clutch of shops able to supply Point tower. This junction is
the-market
just about any recent volume, one of the key sites for the
Charing Cross Road has seen huge Crossrail underground There has been a market
many of its independent book rail project, so expect traffic here since the late 18th
shops forced to shut due to disruption. century. It was a Berwick
Street trader, Jack Smith,
9\-=
DRINK Shaftesbury Avenue

 R2 ⌂ W1 1 Piccadilly
Ain’t Nothin’ But Circus, Leicester Sq
Popularly referred
The main artery of London’s
to simply as the
Blues Bar, this London
theatreland, Shaftesbury
stalwart always has
Avenue has six theatres and
an enthusiastic crowd three cinemas, all but one on
in its dimly lit room, its north side. It is also packed
rarely failing to get with restaurants, bars and
the party cookin’. clubs, making it a goto desti
 Q2 ⌂ 20 Kingly St W1
nation of an evening. This
∑ aintnothinbut.co.uk
street, cut through an area
of slums between 1877 and
1886, is named after the Earl
The Lyric
of Shaftesbury (1801–85),
This snug, ever-lively
whose attempts to improve
Victorian boozer pulls in
housing conditions had helped
hop lovers with the
widest range of beers in
some of the local poor.
Soho, including some
unusual brews.
 R2 ⌂ 37 Great
Windmill St W1
∑ lyricsoho.co.uk Installation images from
Deutsche BÖrse Photography
Foundation Prize 2018 at the
Photographers’ Gallery
118
who introduced grapefruit
to London in 1890. Today this THE HEART OF SOHO
remains the West End’s best Beating a path through
street market, despite the Soho is Old Compton
encroachment of development Street, a busy thorough
on its western side, where fare of restaurants, bars,
you’ll find sizzling street food clubs and shops. Home for
alongside the fresh produce centuries to poets, writers
and flowers. Long a destination and musicians, it’s now an
for vinyl lovers – with Reckless LGBT+ hub, the Admiral
Records at No 30, and Sister Duncan pub leading a pack
Ray at No 75 – it also has a of popular bars and clubs.
growing number of cafés and Turn off on Frith Street to
restaurants. At its southern see iconic jazz club Ronnie
end the street narrows into Scott’s and Bar Italia;
an alley on which the famous above the latter, John
strip club Raymond Revuebar Logie Baird first demon
(once the comparatively strated TV in 1926.
respectable face of Soho
sleaze) presented its “festival
of erotica” from 1958 to 2004.
new and well-known
11 " - = photographers, as well
The Photographers’ as staging regular talks,
Gallery workshops (especially for
Did You Know? young photographers) and
 Q1 ⌂ 16–18 Ramillies St
In the 1960s, four out of film screenings. Entry is
W1 1 Oxford Circus
five Soho strip clubs were free after 5pm, and when
# 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,
controlled by a Maltese exhibitions are staged, the
11am–6pm Sun ∑ thephoto
crime gang, the gallery stays open late (until
graphersgallery.org.uk
Syndicate. 8pm) on Thursdays. There’s
This forerunning gallery a café, and the bookshop
exhibits work from both also sells cameras and prints.
A SHORT WALK Charing Cross
Road (p118) is
SOHO AND
famous for specialist
and second-hand START
bookshops.
TRAFALGAR
SQUARE
CH
AR
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Time 20 minutes
IN
Nearest Tube Leicester Square GE
G
RR
AR
D
Soho is London’s most animated quarter, with PL
crowds enjoying the numerous restaurants, AC
E
cinemas, theatres and bars. Walk along broad
avenues lined with regal office buildings and
ET
wander through Trafalgar Square, a hub of
RE
ST
the West End and popular meeting place
D
for visitors to the city. AR
RR
T
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EE
R
N
ST
UR
E
BO
SL
LI
Shaftesbury Avenue (p118),
AN
lined with theatres boasting
CR
UE
popular permanent and

EN
AR
D
new shows, is the heart of

O
AV
U
R
London’s Theatreland.
ST
RY
RE
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UA
BU
ET
Q
TER S
TES
R
U
P
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ES
T
IC
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EE
Chinese lanterns adorn T ET
Chinatown (p112), RE
ST
a small district packed RY
with colourful restaurants E NT OX
and shops. C OV EN
DO
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ST
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ST
N
W
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TO
ET IT
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CO
PA
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Notre Dame, once a theatre, was converted HA

YM
GE
into a church in 1855. The Jean Cocteau AR

N
RA
murals inside date from 1960. KE

T
O
A 19th-century statue
of William Shakespeare
overlooks Leicester
Square (p115), the city’s
cinema district.
Theatre Royal
Haymarket is graced by
a John Nash portico.
People gathering near

the central fountain
at Leicester Square
120
SOHO AND
TRAFALGAR
SQUARE
Locator Map
Visitors enjoying Trafalgar Square and its
fountains, overlooked by Nelson’s column
Leicester Square station

Did You Know?
ET
RE
ST
The Hippodrome, a former In 2006, Nelson’s

nightclub, was once a variety
Column was found to
theatre and is now a casino.
be 16 ft (5 m) shorter
than previously
Cecil Court is lined with
thought.
shops selling old and new
FINISH books and prints.
CR
This memorial
OS
commemorates Edith
0 metres 100
S
Cavell, who was a British N

RO
nurse in World War I. 0 yards 100

AD
St Martin-in-the-Fields (p114),
James Gibbs’s masterpiece
inspired the US “colonial” style.
IRVING ST
National Portrait
T Gallery (p115)
O N S
A NN
NC
DU
Over 2,300 paintings are

housed in the exceptional
ND
National Gallery (p108).

RA
ST
ST
RE
ET The Fourth Plinth in the
corner of Trafalgar Square
NORTHUMBERLAND hosts changing pieces by
ST
AVE leading contemporary artists.

EA
E
R
A
U
L
SQ
AL
TR
AFALGAR
M
G
IN
LL
AR SS Trafalgar Square (p114)

PA
CH CRO attracts millions of tourists

CO ET
CKSPUR STRE every year and has provided
the backdrop to protests
and concerts.
Nelson’s Column
Admiralty Arch, the entrance to

the Mall, was designed in 1911.
121
A street performer in Covent Garden
COVENT GARDEN
AND THE STRAND
The site of a convent garden in medieval times,
Covent Garden was laid out as an Italianate piazza
in the 1630s by Inigo Jones, whose St Paul’s Church
still dominates the west side. It was initially among
the city’s most fashionable addresses, then coffee
houses, brothels and an increasing number of
market stalls transformed the area’s reputation
and the wealthier residents trickled away. To
accommodate the expansion of the market a
permanent market building was commissioned
and constructed in the 1830s, the elegant Neo-
Classical structure dominating the centre of the
piazza today. It housed a produce market until
1974 when the market moved to a larger site in
Nine Elms, between Vauxhall and Battersea, better
able to cope with its inflated size. Traders still
occupy the building in Covent Garden but cater
mostly to tourists now, operating from shops,
craft stalls and restaurants.
123
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1 Covent Garden Piazza
n RK RK and Central Market
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2 Somerset House
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EXPERIENCE Covent Garden and the Strand
Strolling and snacking

under the iron and glass
roof of the Apple Market
1\-=
COVENT GARDEN
PIAZZA AND
CENTRAL MARKET
 S2 ⌂ Covent Garden WC2 1 Covent Garden, Leicester Sq 3 Charing
Cross ∑ coventgarden.london
One of London’s most distinct and animated squares, Covent Garden

comprises a bustling piazza filled with street performers and a
market alive with shops, cafés and the occasional opera singer. It is
a must-visit – a claim substantiated by the crowds who flock here.
The central, covered Apple Market, designed almost entirely commercial. The market
in 1833 for fruit and vegetable wholesalers, stalls continue south into the neighbouring
today houses an array of stalls and small Jubilee Hall, which was built in 1903. The
shops selling designer clothes, books, arts and colonnaded Bedford Chambers on the north
crafts, decorative items and antiques. The 17th- side give a hint of Inigo Jones’s plan, although
century architect Inigo Jones planned this area these buildings are not original either, having
to be an elegant residential square, modelled been rebuilt and partially modified in 1879.
on the piazza of Livorno in central Italy, but the Despite the renovations, the tradition of street
Victorian buildings on and around the piazza entertainers in the piazza has endured since
now, including the Royal Opera House, are at least the 17th century.
126
Must See
EAT
The Ivy Market Grill
The first of the
once-exclusive Ivy
restaurant’s offshoots.
Smart Art Deco interior
and a menu heavy on
seafood and steaks.
⌂ 1a Henrietta St WC2
∑ theivymarket
grill.com
]]]
Tuttons
Sit out on the piazza or
in the refined dining
area in this Covent
Garden stalwart. Serves
classic English food.
⌂ 11/12 Russell St WC2
∑ tuttons.com
]]]
1 2
1 The Punch & Judy is a popular

market pub with tables inside the
Apple Market and outside on the
terrace overlooking the piazza.
2 Street entertainers are a much-
loved tradition in the piazza. These
days musicians, circus performers
and magicians must pass an audition
in order to perform here.
3 Jubilee Market offers mainly
souvenirs, jewellery and cheaper
items, though on Mondays here and
in the Apple Market antiques and
vintage collectables are on sale.
3
127
Courtyard of Somerset
House with fountains
and café tables
2'\-=
SOMERSET EAT
HOUSE
 T2 ⌂ Strand WC2 1 Temple, Charing Cross
Bryn Williams at
Somerset House
Top-notch modern
seasonal British cuisine
3 Charing Cross 4 Embankment Pier # 8am–11pm daily
with an emphasis on
¢ Courtauld Gallery: until 2021 ∑ Somerset House:
salads and grilled
somersethouse.org.uk; Courtauld Gallery: courtauld.ac.uk
vegetables.
This grand Georgian building, with four Neo-Classical ⌂ South Wing
wings around a huge stone courtyard, is an innovative ∑ bryn-somerset
arts and cultural centre offering a range of events and house.co.uk
exhibitions in a marvellous riverside location. ]]]
Somerset House is best known as the home of the Courtauld
Gallery, the city’s premiere collection of Impressionist paintings. Watch House
It is also a unique and popular venue for outdoor summer This artisan brew
cinema and eclectic festivals, art fairs and installations. bar serves superb
It was built in the 1770s and its first resident was the coffee alongside sweet
Royal Academy of Arts. Later tenants included the Navy Board treats, small plates and
at the end of the 1780s. The building retains some striking gut-busting all-
architectural features, including the classical grandeur of the day brunches.
Seamen’s Waiting Hall and the spectacular five-storey rotunda ⌂ East Wing
staircase called Nelson’s Stair, both in the South Wing. Strolling ∑ watchhouse.com
through the wing from the courtyard leads to a riverside
]]]
terrace featuring a restaurant and an open-air bar, which is
perfect for a sundowner. Below are the modern Embankment
Galleries with a range of contemporary arts exhibitions,
including photography, design and fashion.
128
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
Covent Garden bustle, while
3'\-= the fifth-floor terrace provides
Royal Opera House views across the piazza. Back-
stage tours are available.
 T2 ⌂ Bow St WC2
1 Covent Garden # From
10am daily; closing times
vary, check website ∑ roh. 4
org.uk
St Paul’s Church
Built in 1732, the first theatre
 S2 ⌂ Bedford St WC2
on this site served as more of
1 Covent Garden # 8:30am–
a playhouse, although many
5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sun
of Handel’s operas and
∑ actorschurch.org
oratorios were premiered
here. Like its neighbour, the St Paul’s is the “Actors’ Church”
Theatre Royal Drury Lane, and plaques commemorate
the building proved prone to famed men and women of the
fire and burned down in 1808 theatre. Inigo Jones designed
and again in 1856. The present the altar at the west end to
opera house was designed allow his grand portico to face
in 1858 by E M Barry. John east into Covent Garden Piazza.
Flaxman’s portico frieze, When clerics objected to this
depicting tragedy and unorthodox placement, the
comedy, survived from the altar was moved to its conven-
previous building of 1809. tional position at the east end,
Today, it is home to the but Jones went ahead with his
Royal Opera and Royal Ballet original exterior design. Thus
companies – the best tickets the church is entered from the
Did You Know? can cost over £200 (though west, and the east portico
restricted-view tickets up in the is a fake door.
The courtyard is turned “slips” can be had for as little The church grounds are a
over to a glittering as £10). The opera house has particularly pleasant place
tree and an ice rink become less exclusive, open- to pause – and surprisingly
at Christmas time. ing up its spaces to daytime quiet in contrast to the hustle
visitors. The foyer café-bar is and bustle of neighbouring
a peaceful escape from the Covent Garden.
Courtauld Gallery
Scheduled to reopen in 2021
following a £50 million refur-
bishment, the Courtauld is
most famous for its exquisite
collection of Impressionist and
Post-Impressionist paintings
but also has works by Botticelli,
Bruegel, Bellini and Rubens.
World-famous paintings by
Monet, Gauguin, Pissarro,
Modigliani and Renoir are
here, as are Manet’s A Bar at
the Folies-Bergères, Van Gogh’s
Self-Portrait with Bandaged
Ear, Cézanne’s The Card Players
and studies of dancers by
Degas. Extended exhibition
spaces will broaden the range
on show, including galleries on The Floral Hall – now the Paul
the late medieval period and Hamlyn Hall – at the Royal
the Bloomsbury Group. Opera House
129
The brightly painted former warehouses of Neal’s Yard

and the original branch of Neal’s Yard Remedies
or try veggie delights at Wild on the site of the medieval

PICTURE PERFECT Food Café; either will set you Savoy Palace. The Gatsbyesque
Neal’s Yard up for an afternoon of shop forecourt, leading up to the
A riot of rainbow- ping. Neal’s Yard Remedies Art Deco façade, is the only
coloured walls, window offers potions and lotions, street in Britain where traffic
frames and flower while Neal's Yard Dairy is one drives on the right. The
baskets, Neal’s Yard – of London’s best cheese shops. glorious American Bar, one
secreted in the triangle of the first to introduce cock
between Monmouth St, tails to Europe, was voted the
Neal St and Shorts world’s best bar in 2017.
Gardens – is the perfect 6\-= Attached to the hotel are
subject to use for a Savoy Hotel the Savoy Theatre, built
striking shot. for the D’Oyly Carte opera
 T2 ⌂ Strand WC2
and famed for performing the
1 Charing Cross,
operas of Gilbert and Sullivan,
Embankment
and the Simpson’s in the
5\-= ∑ thesavoylondon.com
Strand English restaurant,
Neal Street Pioneer of ensuite bathrooms where traditional roasts are
and Neal’s Yard and electric lighting, the served ceremoniously from
grand Savoy was built in 1889 silver carving trolleys.
 S1 ⌂ WC2 1 Covent
Garden
In this attractive street, SEVEN DIALS

former warehouses dating The pillar at this junction of seven streets features
from the 19th century can six sundials, the central spike forming the seventh.
be identified by the hoisting In the 19th century this was a slum area and a
mechanisms high on their nexus for street thieves; with a choice of seven
exterior walls. Most buildings escape routes, pickpockets often evaded their
have been converted into pursuers. Today Seven Dials is a vibrant shopping
shops and restaurants. Off and dining area that’s perfect for strolling,
Neal Street is Neal’s Yard, a its cobbled streets and charming hidden
bright and cheerful courtyard courtyards filled with one-off shops,
of independent restaurants boutiques, high-end cosmetics
and shops, most displaying stores, bars and restaurants.
vividly painted façades. Seek
out Homeslice for a 20" pizza
130
There are plenty of engagingly War I. The headquarters
7"'-= handson exhibits, including of English freemasonry,
London Transport a London bus and an Under the cultish traditions of this
Museum ground train that children secretive organization are
can climb aboard and pretend in evidence in the building’s
 T2 ⌂ The Piazza WC2
to drive. museum. Ceremonial objects
1 Covent Garden # 10am–
The museum also offers are displayed around the
6pm daily (last adm: 5:15pm)
Hidden London, a programme centrepiece exhibit, an over
∑ ltmuseum.co.uk
of events in disused stations sized Grand Master's throne
You don’t have to be a train across the city; check the web made for George I in 1791,
spotter to enjoy this intriguing site for more information. Those topped with globes and a
collection, housed in the pic aged 17 and under can enter crown and still used today.
turesque Victorian Flower for free and all tickets allow Peek into one of the lodge
Market, which features public unlimited admission for a year. rooms where masons meet; it
transport from the past and looks like a courtroom, and is
present. The history of London’s hung with portraits of previous
transport is in essence a social Grand Secretaries (leaders of
history of the capital, 8'= this Masonic lodge).
reflecting the city’s growth. Museum of
The museum houses a fine Freemasonry
collection of 20thcentury
 T1 ⌂ Freemasons’ Hall,
commercial art. London’s bus
60 Great Queen St WC2
and train companies have long
been prolific patrons of con
temporary artists, and copies
1 Covent Garden # 10am–
5pm Mon–Sat (to 10pm first EAT
Thu of month) ∑ museum
of some of the finest posters Opera Tavern
freemasonry.org.uk
on display can be bought at Succulent slow-cooked
the museum shop. They include Looming over a corner on octopus is among the
the innovative Art Deco designs Great Queen Street, the Art flavoursome tapas here.
of E McKnight Kauffer, as well Deco Freemasons’ Hall was  S2 ⌂ 23 Catherine St
as work by renowned artists built in 1933 as a memorial to WC2 ∑ saltyard
of the 1930s, such as Graham some 3,000 freemasons who group.co.uk
Sutherland and Paul Nash. died in active service in World ]]]
Chick ‘n’ Sours

Deep-fried chicken,
cocktails and a
thumping soundtrack.
This is fried chicken, but
not as you know it.
 T2 ⌂ 1a Earlham St
WC2 ∑ chickn
sours.co.uk
]]]
Dishoom
Bombay brasserie
serving Irani delights.
 T2 ⌂ 12 Upper St
Martin's Lane WC2
∑ dishoom.com
]]]
Early motor buses on

show in the London
Transport Museum
131
9 0
St Mary-le-Strand Cleopatra’s Needle
 T2 ⌂ Strand WC2
1 Temple
 T3 ⌂ Embankment WC2
1 Embankment, Charing
DRINK
Cross
Now beached on a road The Lamb & Flag
island at the east end of the Erected in Heliopolis in about This popular pub sits in
Strand, this pleasing church 1500 BC, this incongruous an alley linking Garrick
was consecrated in 1724. It pink granite monument is and Floral streets.

was the first public building much older than London Punters often spill out
by James Gibbs, who also itself. Presented to Britain onto the street. It vies
designed the church of by the then Viceroy of Egypt, for the title of oldest
St Martin-in-the-Fields on Mohammed Ali, in 1819 and pub in London – an inn
Trafalgar Square (p114). erected in 1878, its inscriptions has stood here since the
Gibbs was influenced by celebrate the deeds of the 16th century.
one of his early supporters, pharaohs of ancient Egypt.  T2 ⌂ 33 Rose St WC2
Sir Christopher Wren, but the ∑ lambandflag
exuberant external decorative coventgarden.co.uk
detail here was inspired by the
Baroque churches of Rome, q-
where Gibbs studied. Its multi- Victoria Embankment
arched tower is layered like a Gardens
wedding cake, and culminates worthies and, in summer, a
 T3 ⌂ WC2 1 Embank
in a cupola and lantern. The season of concerts.
ment, Charing Cross
interior is richly decorated in Its main historical feature
# 7:30am–dusk daily
white and gold. is the York water gate at its
There are plans to develop This narrow sliver of a public northwest corner, which was
this whole area, which could park, which was created when built as a triumphal entry
threaten the church, but they the Embankment was built, from (now demolished) York
are unlikely to come to fruition boasts well-kept flowerbeds, House to the Thames for the
for a long time. a clutch of statues of British Duke of Buckingham in 1626.
Tulips encircling the Robert

Burns statue in Victoria
Embankment Gardens
132
Aston Martin V12
from Die Another Day,
London Film Museum
w"'\= really a James Bond museum, a moving backdrop from their

London Coliseum the Bond in Motion exhibition respective movie, that usually
having effectively become the attract the most excitement.
 S3 ⌂ St Martin’s Lane
permanent and only display. Among the highlights are the
WC2 1 Leicester Sq, Charing
The Bond memorabilia on unmistakable submersible
Cross # For guided tours;
show includes outfits and white Lotus Esprit S1 from
check website ∑ london
posters, but the exhibition The Spy Who Loved Me, the
coliseum.org
revolves around an impressive “Little Nellie” Wallis WA-116
London’s largest theatre collection of the original Agile Autogyro flown in
and one of its most elaborate, vehicles featured in the films. 1967’s You Only Live Twice
this flamboyant building, There are aircraft, boats, sleds and the quintessential Bond
topped with a large globe, and motorcycles, but it’s the car, the Aston Martin DB5,
was designed in 1904 by Frank cars, many of them set against first seen in 1964’s Goldfinger.
Matcham and was equipped
with London’s first revolving
stage. It was also the first
theatre in Europe to have
lifts. A former variety house,
today it is the home of the
English National Opera and
stages innovative produc-
tions sung in English. It is well
worth visiting for a guided
tour, if only for the Edwardian
interior with its gilded cherubs
and heavy purple curtains.
The original glass roof
provides dramatic views
over Trafalgar Square. THEATRELAND
So choc-a-bloc with theatres is the West End that it has
earned the moniker Theatreland, which you will see
written on street signs, particularly around Soho and
e"-= Covent Garden. Theatre first took off in London in the
London Film Museum late 16th century, and in 1663 the West End had its first
playhouse, the Theatre Royal, a previous incarnation of
 T2 ⌂ 45 Wellington St
the theatre that stands on Drury Lane, Covent Garden,
WC2 1 Covent Garden
today. The present structure was completed in 1812, in
# 10am–6pm daily (last
a century when Theatreland really began to boom; the
adm: 5pm) ∑ londonfilm
nearby Adelphi, on the Strand, had been built in 1806
museum.com
and then, after the Theatres Act of 1843, dozens more
Though previously an actual followed to cater for the Victorian appetite for music hall.
museum of film, this now Today the West End has around 50 working theatres.
misleadingly named place is
133
A SHORT WALK
COVENT
Bright and colourful
Neal Street and
Neal’s Yard are home
GARDEN
to lots of charming
shops and cafés (p130).

Nearest Tube Leicester Square
Although it is no longer alive with the calls of fruit NS

R DE
and vegetable market traders going about their GA
business, visitors, residents and street entertainers TS
throng Covent Garden Piazza, much as they would OR
SH
have done centuries ago. Pause to people-
watch as you stroll through this buzzing VE
area, popping into vibrant boutiques SE N
and historic pubs along the way. ST
DI EARLHAM
ALS
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A replica of a 17th-century
ST
RE
monument marks the junction
ET
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ST
at Seven Dials.
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The airy Thomas Neal’s complex N

houses designer shops and the TO
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Donmar Warehouse theatre. EL

SH
Ching Court is a
Post-Modernist courtyard
RE
UPPE
by architect Terry Farrell.

AC
NG
R ST MAR
LO
St Martin’s Theatre is
home to the world’s
longest-running play:
TIN’S LANE
The Mousetrap.
ET
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ROS
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Stanfords, established in AL
OR
1852, is the largest map and FL
E ST
guide retailer in the world.
Parts of the Lamb &

Flag, one of London’s GA
oldest pubs, date RR G
IC
from 1623 (p132). K I N
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The exclusive Garrick

Club is one of the oldest START
in the world.
BE
NEW ROW
DF
New Row is lined

OR
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with little shops

ANE
Did You Know?

D
and cafés.
ST
Eliza Doolittle, of
URY
George Bernard Shaw’s Georgian-era

Pygmalion (1913), Goodwin’s Court is a
was a flower seller charming, small, alley
in Covent Garden. lined with former shops.
134
COVENT
GARDEN
AND THE
STRAND
Locator Map
Street cafés line the cobbled streets

of atmospheric Covent Garden
Many of the world’s greatest

Covent Garden classical singers and dancers
station have appeared on the Royal
Opera House’s stage (p129).
Bow Street Police Station housed

London’s first police force, the Bow
Street Runners, in the 18th century.
It is now the NoMad hotel.
A theatre has stood on the site of
the Theatre Royal Drury Lane
since 1663, making it London’s oldest
theatre. It is owned by composer
ET Andrew Lloyd Webber and stages
JA
RE
ST
ME
AL
popular musicals.
S
OR
FL
BO
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W
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8 Russell Street is
RE
where Dr Johnson first

ET
EE
T
R met his biographer,

ST James Boswell.
L L
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NG
The history of the city’s

RD
T
TO
E historic public transport

EN
E
N
R system is brought to life

T FINISH
ST
S in the London Transport

Museum (p131).
Performers of all kinds – jugglers, clowns,

SO
acrobats and musicians – entertain

UT
ST the crowds in Covent Garden Piazza and

HA
TA under cover in the Central Market (p126).

MP
I ET
NR
TO
HE Jubilee Market sells

N
clothes and bric-a-brac.

ST
Despite appearances, St Paul’s

E Church faces away from the
L AN Piazza. Its grand portico serves
N as a stage for a colourful cast
E
A ID of street performers (p125).
M
Rules restaurant is
frequented by the 0 metres 100 N
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typically English food. 0 yards 100
135
A stained-glass window in St Etheldreda’s Church
HOLBORN AND
THE INNS OF COURT
Holborn has been the home of the legal profession
in London since the 13th century. The sprawling
Royal Courts of Justice, the country’s central civil
courts, were built here, where the Strand meets
Fleet Street, between 1873 and 1882. Much older
are the Inns of Court, dating from the medieval
period, which supply the courts here and else
where with their barristers and judges. Though the
exact foundation dates for all four Inns of Court
are uncertain, the reason for their location can be
traced to a decree of Henry III, from 1234.
It stated that no body providing legal education
could be located in the City of London, forcing the
legal profession to move just outside the boundary
of the City to Holborn. Though student barristers
can now study elsewhere, to graduate they must
still belong to one of the Inns.
137
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Inner Temple
Inner Temple
LE LE Middle Middle Garden Garden
TEMP TEMP Temple Temple BlackfriarsBlackfriars
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Temple Temple
V I C T O RV II AC T O REI AM B A NEKMMBEANNTK M E N T
BlackfriarsBlackfriars
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Blackfriars
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SOUTH BANK BANKR i v R i v
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p218 p218
BanksideBankside
Gallery Gallery
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Did You Know?
Well-tended, pretty The Inns have starred
gardens in front of as locations in such
Middle Temple films as The Da Vinci
Code and Pirates of
the Caribbean.
1'
INNS OF COURT
Resembling the colleges of Oxford or Cambridge University, the four
Inns of Court – Lincoln’s Inn, Gray’s Inn, Inner Temple and Middle
Temple – are oases of calm in the middle of London and perfect sites
for a relaxing and intriguing wander through history.
The Inns of Court are the centuries-old homes of the

Bar in England and Wales, and every barrister must
belong to one of the four Inns. Established in the late
medieval period, barristers have long used the Inns for
training and study and as accommodation. The leafy
precincts, each with their own chapel, historic hall and
landscaped gardens, make great places for a lunchtime
picnic, and their jumble of passageways, hidden corners
and courtyards are well worth exploring. Temple, the
joint campus of Inner and Middle Temples, was first
home to the Knights Templar, who were based here in
the 13th century, and a rebuilt version of their church is
a highlight of all four Inns.
It is among the most historic
churches in London and one A perfect place to
of only four medieval “round relax, on the grass of
churches” in England. Lincoln‘s Inn Fields
140
Must See
Lincoln’s Inn Temple Church

" # Times vary, check
 J4 ⌂ Lincoln’s Inn Fields
website ∑ templechurch.com
WC2 1 Holborn, Chancery
Lane # 7am–7pm Mon-Fri
∑ lincolnsinn.org.uk
Gray’s Inn
Some of the buildings in
 K4 ⌂ High Holborn WC1
Lincoln’s Inn, the most well
1 Holborn, Chancery Lane
preserved of London’s Inns
# 6am–8pm Mon-Fri, by
of Court, date back to the late
prior arrangement
15th century. The coat of arms
∑ graysinn.org.uk
above the arch of the Chancery
Lane gatehouse is Henry VIII’s, This ancient legal centre and
and the heavy oak door is from law school dates to the 14th
the same time. Shakespeare’s century, though it was largely
contemporary, Ben Jonson, rebuilt after damage inflicted
is believed to have laid some during World War II. The
of the bricks of Lincoln’s Inn Shakespeare play A Comedy
during the reign of Elizabeth I. of Errors was first performed
The chapel is early 17th- in Gray’s Inn Hall in 1594 and
century Gothic. Lincoln’s Inn the hall’s 16th-century interior
has its share of famous screen still survives. The young
alumni: Oliver Cromwell, John Charles Dickens was employed
Donne, the 17th-century poet, as a clerk here between 1827
and William Penn, founder of and 1828. The lovely gardens
the US state of Pennsylvania, known as “the Walks”, once a
were all students here. convenient site for staging
duels, are open to lunchtime
strollers during the week
Inner Temple and (except public holidays).
Middle Temple
 K5 ⌂ Temple EC4
1 Temple ∑ innertemple.
INSIDER TIP
Summer Spot org.uk; middletemple.
org.uk
The best time to visit
the Inns of Court is in Temple’s series of courtyards
the summer for a picnic. and buildings comprise two
The gardens are open on of the four Inns of Court:
weekdays at lunchtime Middle Temple and Inner
(opening times vary for Temple. The name derives
each individual garden). from the Knights Templar, a
chivalrous order based here THE KNIGHTS
TEMPLAR
in medieval times, whose
initiations probably took place The Knights Templar,
in the crypt of Temple Church. who founded Temple
Built in the 12th century, and and built Temple
maintained by the Inns since Church, was a religious
1608, the circular Temple order established to
Church boasts an impressive protect pilgrims on
Elizabethan organ and 13th- their way to and from
century effigies of the Knights Jerusalem in the 12th
Templar in its nave. century. The Holy City
Among Temple’s other had been seized in the
ancient buildings is the late 11th century by
Elizabethan Middle Temple Christian crusaders
Hall, open to non-members for but pilgrimage routes
lunch during term-time (check were fraught with
website). Behind Temple, danger. The order was
peaceful lawns stretch down dissolved in 1312.
towards the Embankment.
141
2'=
SIR JOHN SOANE’S

MUSEUM
EXPERIENCE Holborn and the Inns of Court
 J4 ⌂ 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields WC2 1 Holborn # 10am–5pm Wed–Sun; advance booking

online required ¢ 25 & 26 Dec & a week in Jan for conservation ∑ soane.org
One of the most delightful and unusual museums in London, this extraordinary
house, filled to bursting with an eclectic gathering of beautiful and peculiar
objects, was left to the nation by the architect Sir John Soane in 1837.
Though laden with Classical statuary and other

eye-catching and unusual artifacts, it is the
interior design of the building itself that makes
this place unlike any other museum. The house
abounds with architectural surprises and
illusions. Cunningly placed mirrors play
tricks with light and space, and in the centre
of the basement an atrium stretches up to
the roof, the glass dome of which illuminates
the galleries on every floor. In the picture
gallery on the ground floor, walls turn out
to be folding panels which knowledgeable
curators open to reveal further paintings and,
most unexpectedly, a floorless extension to The museum, made up of three
the room itself, hung with yet more pictures. houses that Soane bought one by one
Rooms filled with

an eclectic array of
ancient statuary
142
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
With its wooden beams and
3- overhanging first floor, it gives
Lincoln’s Inn Fields a rare impression of a London
streetscape from before the
 J4 ⌂ WC2 1 Holborn
Great Fire of 1666. The shop
# 7:30am–dusk daily
is still trading, currently as a
A former public execution site, handmade-shoe shop.
many religious martyrs and
those suspected of treachery
WHO WAS SIR to the Crown perished here
JOHN SOANE? under the Tudors and Stuarts. 5
Born in 1753, the son When the developer William Hunterian Museum
of a bricklayer, John Newton wanted to build
 J4 ⌂ 35–43 Lincoln’s Inn
Soane eventually on this site in the 1640s,
Fields WC2 1 Holborn,
became one of Britain’s students at Lincoln’s Inn
Chancery Lane ¢ For
leading architects of and other residents made
refurbishment until 2022
the 19th century. Most him undertake that it would
∑ rcseng.ac.uk
of his buildings were remain a public area forever.
Neo-Classical in style Thanks to this early protest, Inside the Royal College of
and he was responsible tennis is played on the public Surgeons, the Hunterian
for designing Dulwich courts here year-round, while Museum started life as the
Picture Gallery (p325), lawyers read their briefs in personal collection of John
Pitzhanger Manor the fresh air. Hunter (1728–93), one of the
(p330) and the Bank leading teachers of surgery
of England (p186). in his day, who amassed a
large collection of human
4 and animal anatomical
The Old Curiosity Shop specimens to aid his teaching.
Most famously the skeleton of
 J4 ⌂ 13–14 Portsmouth St
Charles Byrne, the “Irish Giant”
WC2 1 Holborn ∑ the-old-
at 2.31 m (7 ft 7 in) tall, is here.
curiosity-shop.com
It is not a museum for the
Whether it inspired Charles squeamish, but the surgical
Dickens’s 19th-century novel instruments and interactive
of the same name or not, displays on modern surgery
the Old Curiosity Shop is a are fascinating for those with
genuine 16th-century building. an interest in the subject.
The Old Curiosity Shop provides a glimpse

of London as it looked before 1666
143
Fleet Street, one of the oldest streets in the City of London,

which once rang with the sounds of printing presses
Next to the church of St in London in the 9th century.

6\-= DunstanintheWest (which From the 17th to the 19th
Fleet Street largely dates from the 1830s) centuries many people were
is a building adorned with the buried here, and their memo
 K5 ⌂ EC4 1 Temple,
names of former newspapers. rial plaques are now in the
Blackfriars, St Paul’s
The printing presses under crypt. Outside, to the east, is
England’s first printing press neath the newspaper offices a statue (1910) of Dr Johnson
was set up by William Caxton were abandoned in 1987, when (p146), who often came to
in the late 15th century. In new technology rendered services here.
around 1500, his assistant Fleet Street presses obsolete Nearly destroyed during
began his own business in and production shifted to World War II, the church was
Fleet Street, and the area Wapping and the Docklands. rebuilt and became the
grew to become the centre of Today the newspaper offices central church of the Royal
London’s publishing industry. have also left Fleet Street, even Air Force (RAF). The interior is
Playwrights Shakespeare and though some of the journalists’ dominated by RAF symbols,
Ben Jonson were patrons of traditional watering holes memorials and monuments.
the old Mitre Tavern, now remain, such as Ye Olde Housed in elaborate glass
No 37 Fleet Street. In 1702, Cheshire Cheese public house cabinets along the aisles,
England’s first daily news (p146), and the legendary remembrance books record
paper, The Daily Courant, was El Vino wine bar (p145), the names of over 150,000
issued from Fleet Street – found at the western end. men and women who died
conveniently placed for the while serving the RAF.
City and Westminster, which The church bells ring to
were the main sources of various tunes, including that
news. Later the street became 7 of the old nursery rhyme
synonymous with the Press. St Clement Danes Oranges and Lemons, in whose
The grand Art Deco building lyrics the church features.
 J5 ⌂ Strand WC2
with Egyptianstyle detail at Free lunchtime recitals are
1 Temple # 9am–4pm
No 135 is the former head put on every Tuesday.
Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat,
quarters of the Daily Telegraph.
9:30am–3pm Sun ¢ 26
Dec–3 Jan, public hols
∑ stclementsdanesraf.org 8
Sitting proudly isolated on a Temple Bar Memorial
Did You Know? traffic island, this wonderful
 K5 ⌂ Fleet St EC4
Sweeney Todd, the church was designed by
1 Temple, Chancery Lane
“Demon Barber of Fleet Christopher Wren in 1680.
Street”, is said to have Its name derives from an In the middle of Fleet Street
had his parlour at earlier church built here by stands a monument looking
152 Fleet St. the descendants of Danish somewhat like a giant sentry
invaders, whom Alfred the box, with Queen Victoria and
Great had allowed to remain her son, the Prince of Wales,
144
to cause traffic congestion, one. The massive building was
and spent over a century in completed in 1882 and is said
DRINK
the grounds of a country to contain 1,000 rooms and
estate in Hertfordshire before 5.6 km (3.5 miles) of corridors.
being erected at the entrance
El Vino of Paternoster Square near
Immortalized as St Paul’s (p176) in 2004.
0'=
“Pomeroys” in John
Mortimer’s Rumpole of St Bride’s
the Bailey stories,
9'-  K5 ⌂ Fleet St EC4
wood-panelled wine
1 Blackfriars # 8am–6pm
bar El Vino is famous for Royal Courts of Justice
Mon–Fri, 10am–3:30pm Sat,
the lengthy lunches (the Law Courts)
10am–6:30pm Sun ¢ Public
enjoyed here by both
 K5 ⌂ Strand WC2 hols ∑ stbrides.com
barristers and, in the
1 Holborn, Temple,
past, journalists. St Bride’s is one of Wren’s
Chancery Lane # 9:30am–
 K5 ⌂ 47 Fleet St EC4
best-loved churches. Its
4:30pm Mon–Fri ¢ Public
∑ elvino.co.uk position just off Fleet Street
hols ∑ theroyalcourtsof
has made it the traditional
justice.com
venue for memorial services
Knots of demonstrators and to departed journalists, and
television cameras can often wall plaques commemorate
standing guard on either be seen outside this sprawling notable pressmen and women
side. Dating from 1880, it and fanciful Victorian Gothic and printers. The marvellous
marks the spot where Temple building, waiting for the verdict octagonal layered spire has
Bar, a magnificent gateway of a contentious case. These been the model for tiered
by Sir Christopher Wren, are the nation’s main civil wedding cakes since shortly
used to stand. This was the courts, dealing with such after it was added in 1703,
principal entrance to the City matters as divorce, libel, civil and although the church was
of London, where by tradition liability and appeals. Cases bombed during World War II,
the monarch, when in State involving criminal offences its interior had been faithfully
procession to the Tower of are dealt with at the Old restored by 1957. The crypt
London or St Paul’s Cathedral, Bailey (p189), ten minutes’ contains remnants of earlier
had to pause and ask permis- walk to the east. The public churches on the site, and a
sion of the Lord Mayor to are admitted to all the court- section of Roman pavement.
enter. The original gateway rooms and a list details which Tours lasting 90 minutes are
was dismantled when it began case is being heard in which led at 2:15pm on Tuesdays.
The Royal Courts of

Justice, one of Britain’s
key courts of law
145
Ye Olde Cheshire
Cheese, an icon of
London’s pub scene
1759. He compiled the first often drank here in the 17th

q"= definitive English dictionary century, but it was Dr Samuel
Dr Johnson’s House (published in 1755) in the attic, Johnson’s association with
where six scribes and assistants “the Cheese” that made it a
 K4 ⌂ 17 Gough Sq EC4
stood all day at high desks. place of pilgrimage for the
1 Blackfriars, Chancery
The house, built before 19th-century literati. Novelists
Lane, Temple # May–Sep:
1700, retains some period Mark Twain and Charles
11am–5:30pm Mon–Sat;
features and is furnished with Dickens were frequent visitors.
Oct–Apr: 11am–5pm
18th-century pieces. There is In recent years it has been
Mon–Sat ¢ Public hols
a small collection of exhibits argued that Johnson may
∑ drjohnsonshouse.org
relating to Dr Johnson and never have drank here; never-
The oft-quoted Dr Samuel the times in which he lived, theless, this is a great old pub,
Johnson was an 18th-century including a tea set belonging one of few to have kept the
scholar famous for the many to his friend Mrs Thrale and 18th-century arrangement of
witty (and often contentious) pictures of Johnson and his small rooms with fireplaces,
remarks that his biographer, contemporaries. There are
James Boswell, recorded and also replica Georgian costumes
published. Johnson lived at for children to try on. A statue
17 Gough Square from 1748 to of one of Johnson’s favourite
cats, Hodge, stands outside.
SHOP
Twinings
w\ The oldest tea shop
Ye Olde Cheshire in London. Learn
Cheese about the history
of Britain's favourite
 K4 ⌂ 145 Fleet St EC4
drink, and try (and buy)
1 Blackfriars # Noon–
a variety of brews
11pm Mon–Sat
from the world-
There has been an inn here famous brand.
for centuries and parts of this  K5 ⌂ 216 Strand
building date back to 1667, WC2 ∑ twinings.co.uk
Hodge looking out when rebuilding took place
towards the famed after the Great Fire of 1666.
Dr Johnson’s House The diarist Samuel Pepys
146
HATTON GARDEN
Named for Sir Christopher Hatton, Hatton Garden is
the centre of London’s diamond and jewellery district.
Millions of pounds change hands daily in scores of
small shops with sparkling window displays. In April
2015 , an underground safe deposit facility was robbed
of at least £14 million, in what has been described as
the “largest burglary in English legal history”.
then through steel security churches, it was gutted

doors to reach a nest of during World War II but
The stained-glass underground shops shining faithfully restored and then
west window of St with antique and modern further renovated in 2019.
Etheldreda’s Church silverware. Prices range from Benjamin Disraeli, the
modest to eye-watering. Jewish-born prime minister,
was baptized here in 1817,
tables and benches, rather at the age of 12. In the 19th
than knocking through the century, a charity school was
walls to make larger bars. t attached to the church.
St Andrew, Holborn
 K4 ⌂ 5 St Andrew St EC4
e= 1 Chancery Lane, Farringdon 16 \ - =
# 9am–5pm Mon–Fri
St Etheldreda’s Leather Lane Market
∑ standrewholborn.org.uk
Church
 K4 ⌂ Leather Lane
A site of worship for over
 K4 ⌂ 14 Ely Place EC1 1 Farringdon, Chancery
1,000 years, the medieval
1 Farringdon # 8am– Lane # 10am–2pm Mon–Fri
church that stood here
5pm Mon–Sat, 8am–
survived the Great Fire, Running parallel to Hatton
12:30pm Sun ¢ Public
but in 1668 renowned Garden is Leather Lane
hols ∑ stetheldreda.com
architect Christopher Wren Market. This traditional
Built in 1290, this rare survivor was asked to redesign it. London market sells a bit
is the oldest Catholic church in The lower part of the tower of everything, including
England. First the town chapel is virtually all that remains some tasty street food,
of the Bishops of Ely, it passed of the earlier church. One of and is a perfect place to
through various hands over Wren’s most spacious pick up a treat or two.
the centuries, including those
of Sir Christopher Hatton, an
Elizabethan courtier, who built
Hatton House in the grounds
and used the church crypt as a
tavern. Rebuilt and restored
several times, the church has
some stunning stained glass.
r
The London Silver
Vaults
 K4 ⌂ 53–64 Chancery
Lane WC2 1 Chancery Lane
# 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat ¢ Public hols
∑ silvervaultslondon.com
These silver vaults began life

as the 19th-century Chancery
Lane Safe Deposit Company. The impressive silverware and
Visitors are led downstairs, antiques in the London Silver Vaults
147
A SHORT WALK
INNS OF COURT
Distance 2 km (1.25 miles) Time 30 minutes The Sir John Soane’s
Nearest Tube Holborn Museum was the home of
the Georgian architect. It
This is calm, dignified, legal London, packed with was left, with his collection,
history and interest. Lincoln’s Inn, adjoining one to the nation (p142).
of the city’s first residential squares, has buildings
dating back to the late 15th century. Suited lawyers
carry bundles of briefs between their offices
LIN
here and the Neo-Gothic Law Courts.
CO
Nearby is Temple, another
LN
historic legal district, which S
’S
LD
has a famous 13th-century FIE
IN
I NN
round church. ’S
N
LN
CO
FIE
LIN
LD
S
Lincoln’s Inn (p141)
The mock-Tudor archway,

leading to Lincoln’s Inn and built
SE
in 1845, overlooks the Lincoln’s
RL
Inn Fields (p143).
E
START
The Old Curiosity Shop is a
ET
rare 16th-century, pre-Great RE
ST
PO
Fire building (p143). L

U GA
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0 metres 100 N
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The Gladstone statue was FINISH

erected in 1905 to commemorate
William Gladstone, the Victorian
A circular pergoda at the statesman who served four terms
centre of the peaceful green as prime minister.
haven of Lincoln’s Inn Fields
148
HOLBORN
AND THE INNS
OF COURT
Locator Map
The imposing façade of the Royal

Courts of Justice, the nation’s
main civil courts
The opening scene of

Did You Know?
Charles Dickens’ Bleak Lincoln’s Inn Fields is the
House was set in Lincoln largest public square
Inn’s Old Hall, which
in London.
dates back to 1490.
Look for the gold

lions on the
railings of the
Law Society’s For two centuries Fleet
headquarters. Street was the centre
of the national press.
The newspaper offices
FE
left in the 1980s (p144).

TTE
ST
RE
R LANE
ET
El Vino is a wine bar

EET where Fleet Street’s
CHAN
STR
journalists once mingled
BEL
with barristers (p145).

CERY
L YA
RD
LANE
No 17 Fleet Street has

a superb half-timbered
façade (1610) that
EET survived the Fire. James
STR
ET I’s eldest son, Prince
FLE
Henry, had a room on
the first floor of this
former tavern.
AND
STR
MIDDLE TE
Temple was first home

to the Knights Templar,
who were based here in
the 13th century.
MPLE
A dragon sculpture marks

LAN
where the City of London

E
meets Westminster at the

Designed by Temple Bar Memorial (p144).
Wren (1679),
St Clement The Royal Courts of Justice, the country’s
Danes is the main court for civil cases and appeals, was built
Royal Air Force’s in 1882. It is made out of 35 million bricks faced
church (p144). with Portland stone (p145).
149
The Reading Room at the British Museum
BLOOMSBURY
AND FITZROVIA
The handsome garden squares of Fitzrovia and
Bloomsbury date mainly from the late 18th and
early 19th centuries, but it wasn’t until the early
20th century that the area became inseparably
connected with the cultural and intellectual elite
of London. By that time Bloomsbury was already
established as a place of learning, home to the
British Museum, founded in 1753, and the
University of London, founded in 1826. Along with
Fitzrovia it was an apt location, therefore, for the
homes and haunts of the avant-garde set known
as the Bloomsbury Group, a network of mostly
upper-middle-class, learned and artistic friends
and associates. Since the Bloomsbury Group’s
heyday the university has expanded significantly,
adding the monolithic Senate House – now home
to the School of Oriental and African Studies and
central library – to its collection of campuses, and
cementing the area’s place as the student capital
of central London.
151
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BLOOMSBURY AND FITZROVIA
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GARDEN Must See Eat
ND THE
AND THE 1 British Museum 1 Salt Yard
TRAND
STRAND
p122 p122 2 ROKA
Experience More
3 Cosmoba
2 Bloomsbury Square
3 Russell Square Drink
4 St George’s, Bloomsbury 4 Fitzroy Tavern
5 Charles Dickens Museum 5 The Queen’s Larder
6 Wellcome Collection
Shop
7 Pollock’s Toy Museum
6 London Review Bookshop
C O V ECNOTV E N T 8 Fitzroy Square
GARD G EA N
RDEN 9 The Postal Museum
0 Foundling Museum
q Grant Museum of Zoology
1'\-=
BRITISH MUSEUM
 I4 ⌂ Great Russell St WC1 1 Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, Russell Square
3 Euston # 10am–5:30pm daily, till 8:30pm Fri ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec ∑ britishmuseum.org
The British Museum holds one of the world’s greatest collections of historical and
EXPERIENCE Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
cultural artifacts. This immense hoard of treasure comprises over eight million
objects spanning the history of mankind, from prehistoric times to today.
The oldest public museum in the world, the British Museum
INSIDER TIP was established in 1753 to house the books, antiquities, and
Eye Openers plant and animal specimens of the physician Sir Hans Sloane
The museum offers an (1660–1753). The collection expanded rapidly and during the
excellent set of free 19th century the museum acquired a mass of Classical and
tours. There are over Middle Eastern antiquities, some of which still make up the
a dozen daily “eye- top attractions here, such as the Rosetta Stone and the
opener tours” of Parthenon sculptures. You can now see items drawn from a
individual rooms; and dizzying number of cultures and civilizations, from Stone Age
on Friday evenings the Europe and Ancient Egypt to modern Japan and contemporary
“spotlight tours” focus North America. There are sculptures and statues, mummies and
on specific exhibits such murals, coins and medals, ceramics, gold and silver, prints,
as the Rosetta Stone. drawings and innumerable other man-made objects from
There’s no need to every corner of the globe and every period of history.
book, simply check
the website for where
and when to meet.
Must See
1 The Rosetta Stone was the key to

interpreting Egyptian hieroglyphs.
2 The museum holds the largest
collection of Egyptian mummies
outside of Egypt.
3 Beautiful statues from the
Parthenon in Ancient Greece. 3
The Greek Revival–style main

entrance to the British Museum
on Great Russell Street
A World of Treasures main floors, though major items such as the
There are 95 galleries covering 4 km (2.5 miles) Parthenon sculptures are in the large rooms
over three floors and eight levels of the of the ground floor to the west of the Great
museum, though the majority of exhibits Court. The Africa collection is on the lower
are on the ground and upper floors. Ancient floor, while Asia exhibits are on the ground
Egyptian artifacts are on the upper floor in and upper floors on the north side. The
Rooms 61 to 66 and in Room 4, beside the Americas collection is located in the north-
Great Court. The Greece, Rome and Middle east corner of the main floor. The Sainsbury
East collections are also spread across the two Gallery hosts major temporary exhibitions.
The world-famous Reading

Room, designed by Sir Norman
Foster, at the centre of the
museum’s Great Court
Did You Know?

The Reading Room roof
is made up of 3,312 panes
of glass, and takes two
weeks to clean.
Inside the Enlightenment

gallery, formerly the library
of King George III
156
Must See
GREAT COURT AND
READING ROOM Prehistoric and
Roman Britain
Top Collections
The architectural
highlight of the ▶ Highlights among the relics of ancient
building is the Great Britain on display include the gold “Mold

Court, a breathtaking Cape”, a ceremonial Bronze Age cape
conversion of the found in Wales; an antlered headdress
original 19th-century worn by hunter-gatherers 9,000 years
inner courtyard. ago; and “Lindow Man”, a 1st-century AD
Opened in 2000, the victim of sacrifice who was preserved in a
court is now covered bog until 1984.
by a tessellated glass
roof, creating Europe’s Europe
largest indoor public Sutton Hoo’s treasure, the burial hoard of a
square. At the centre of 7th-century Anglo-Saxon king, is in Room 41. The
the Great Court is the artifacts include a helmet and shield, Celtic bowls, and gold and garnet
glorious dome-roofed jewellery. Exquisite timepieces include a 400-year-old clock from Germany,
Reading Room of the designed as a model galleon; in its day it pitched, played music and even
former British Library fired a cannon. Nearby are the famous 12th-century Lewis chessmen. Baron
where figures such as Ferdinand Rothschild’s (1839–98) Renaissance treasures are in Room 2a.
Mahatma Gandhi and
Karl Marx studied. Middle East
Galleries devoted to the Middle East collections cover 7,000 years
of history, with famous items such as 7th-century BC Assyrian reliefs
from King Ashurbanipal’s palace at Nineveh, two large human-
headed bulls from 7th-century BC Khorsabad and the Black Obelisk
of Shalmaneser III, an Assyrian king. The upper floors contain pieces
from ancient Sumeria, part of the Oxus Treasure (which lay buried for
over 2,000 years) and the diverse new Islamic World galleries.
Egypt
Egyptian sculptures in Room 4 include a fine red granite head of a king,
thought to be Amenhotep III, and a huge statue of King Rameses II.
Here too is the Rosetta Stone, used as a key for deciphering
Egyptian hieroglyphs. An array of mummies, jewellery and
Coptic art is upstairs.
Greece and Rome

◀ The Greek and Roman collections include the
controversial Parthenon sculptures. These 5th-

century BC reliefs decorated the temple to Athena
on the Acropolis, Athens. Much of it was ruined, and
what survived was removed by the British diplomat
Lord Elgin. There is also the Nereid Monument and
sculptures from the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus.
Asia
Fine porcelain, Shang bronzes (c 1500–1050 BC) and ceremonial bronze
vessels are in the Chinese Collection. In the Sir Percival David Collection
the Chinese ceramics date from the 3rd to early 20th centuries. There is
a fine collection of sculpture from the Indian subcontinent, including
sculpted reliefs that once covered the walls of the Buddhist temple at
Amaravati. A Korean section contains works of Buddhist art, and there
is a traditional Japanese teahouse in Room 92.
Africa
African sculptures, textiles and graphic art are in Room 25. Famous
bronzes from the Kingdom of Benin, set to be loaned on a rotating basis
back to Nigeria, stand alongside modern African prints, paintings,
drawings and colourful fabrics.
157
EXPERIENCE MORE
THE BLOOMSBURY 2 3-
GROUP Bloomsbury Square Russell Square
The Bloomsbury Group  I4 ⌂ WC1 1 Holborn  I3 ⌂ WC1 1 Russell Sq
was an informal set
of writers, artists and Considered to be London’s One of London’s largest
intellectuals who oldest square, it was laid squares, Russell Square is a
lived in and around out in 1661 by the 4th Earl lively place, with a fountain,
Bloomsbury at the of Southampton, who owned café and traffic roaring around
beginning of the 20th the land. None of the original its perimeter. The east side
century. The group, buildings survive and the boasts perhaps the best of
with its passionate square’s shaded garden is the Victorian grand hotels to
belief in the “aesthetic encircled by a busy one-way survive in the capital. Designed
experience and the traffic system. (There is a by Charles Doll and opened in
pursuit of knowledge”, car park below the square 1898, the former Russell Hotel –
and modern attitudes that, unusually for central now the Kimpton Fitzroy
towards feminism, London, nearly always has London – remains a wondrous
sexuality and politics, a free space or two.)
first gathered at No 46 From this square, the
Gordon Square, home entire Bloomsbury area was
of the Stephen sisters, gradually developed. Noted
Virginia (later Woolf) for the brilliance of many of its
and Vanessa (later inhabitants, it gave its name
Bell). Other key most famously to the avant-
members included garde Bloomsbury Group.
novelist E M Forster, Look out for their individual
economist John plaques throughout the area.
Maynard Keynes,
the biographer Lytton
Strachey and artists
Duncan Grant and
Dora Carrington. The austere but
bright interior of St
George's, Bloomsbury
158
the first of its kind in the UK.
Attached is a venue that hosts
stand-up comedy perform-
ances in the evenings.
Museum of Comedy
SHOP
- # Times vary, check
London Review
website ∑ museumof Bookshop
comedy.com A bookshop for people
who are serious about
books. The carefully
chosen stock is
5"'-= testament to the highly
Charles Dickens respected literary
Museum credentials of its
owners, the London
 J3 ⌂ 48 Doughty St WC1 Review of Books
1 Chancery Lane, Russell Sq journal. There are
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (last knowledgeable staff
adm: 4pm; Dec: also Mon); members to help and
check website for monthly chat, and a great little
late opening ¢ 1 Jan, 25 & coffee shop too.
26 Dec, and occasionally
 I4 ⌂ 14–16
for events ∑ dickens
Bury Pl WC1
museum.com
∑ londonreview
Russell Square, an oasis The novelist Charles Dickens bookshop.co.uk
in a whirl of busy traffic lived in this early-19th-century
terraced house for three of his
most productive years (from
confection of red terracotta, 1837 to 1839); Oliver Twist and
with colonnaded balconies Nicholas Nickleby were entirely runs a monthly “Housemaid’s
and prancing cherubs written here, and the Pickwick Tour”. The garden café (no
beneath the main columns. Papers was finished. Although entry fee) provides respite
The poet T S Eliot worked Dickens had a number of from the busy city centre and
at the west corner of the London homes throughout has a decent selection of
square from 1925 until 1965, his lifetime, this is the only drinks and treats.
in what were the offices of one to have survived.
publisher Faber & Faber. In 1923, it was acquired by
the Dickens Fellowship and it is
now a well-conceived museum
with some of the principal
4' rooms laid out exactly as they
St George’s, were in Dickens’s time. Others
Bloomsbury have been adapted to display
a varied collection of articles
 I4 ⌂ Bloomsbury Way WC1
associated with him.
1 Holborn, Tottenham Court
The museum’s collection
Rd, Russell Sq # Times vary,
spans over 100,000 exhibits,
check website ∑ stgeorges
including manuscripts,
bloomsbury.org.uk
paintings and personal items,
St George’s was designed by papers and pieces of furniture
Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil from his other homes, and
of Christopher Wren, and first editions of many of his
completed in 1730. It was best-known works. As well
built as a place of worship for as its permanent collection,
the residents of fashionable the museum puts on special
Bloomsbury. In 1913, the exhibitions and events, and
funeral of Emily Davison,
the suffragette killed by King
George V’s racehorse at the
Epsom Derby, was held here. A bust of the great
The crypt is the unlikely home chronicler of London, at the
of the Museum of Comedy, Charles Dickens Museum
writers and statesmen: writers
George Bernard Shaw and
Virginia Woolf both lived at
No 29 – although not at the
same time. Shaw gave money
to the artist Roger Fry to
establish the Omega work-
shop at No 33 in 1913. Here
young artists were paid a
fixed wage to produce Post-

Impressionist furniture, pottery,
carpets and paintings for
sale to the public.
The cheerful
home of Pollock’s 9"-=
Toy Museum The Postal Museum
 J3 ⌂ 15–20 Phoenix
Pl WC1 # Farringdon
6'\-= 7"= # 10am–5pm daily ¢ 24–26
Dec ∑ postalmuseum.org
Wellcome Collection Pollock’s Toy Museum
Just over the road from the
 H3 ⌂ 183 Euston Rd NW1  H4 ⌂ 1 Scala St W1
Mount Pleasant Royal Mail
1 Euston, King’s Cross, (entrance on Whitfield St)
Sorting Office, once the
Warren St # 10am–6pm 1 Goodge St, Warren St,
largest sorting office in the
Tue–Sat (to 9pm Thu), Tottenham Court Rd
world, the Postal Museum
10am–6pm Sun, times # 10am–5pm Mon–Sat
charts the 500 years of
vary on public hols ¢ 1 Jan, ¢ Sun & public hols
Britain’s postal service in
24–26 Dec ∑ wellcome ∑ pollockstoys.com
a series of interactive and
collection.org
Named for Benjamin Pollock, child-friendly exhibits. The
Sir Henry Wellcome a renowned maker of toy star attraction is Mail Rail, a
(1853–1936) was a phar- theatres in the late 19th and 15-minute miniature train ride
macist, entrepreneur and early 20th centuries, this is a through tunnels that once
collector. His passionate child-sized museum created formed part of the postal
interest in medicine and its in two 18th- and 19th-century service’s underground railway.
history, as well as archaeology houses. The small rooms have The at-times pitch-black,
and ethnography, led him to been filled with a fascinating narrow, atmospheric tunnels
gather more than one million assortment of historic toys feature audiovisual displays
objects from around the world, from all over the world. along the way and deposit
now housed in this building. There are dolls, puppets, you in the original engineering
As well as temporary trains, cars, construction sets, depot. The museum itself
exhibitions, there are two per- a fine rocking horse and a contains exhibits spanning
manent displays: Medicine Man splendid collection of mainly the full life of the oldest
has objects from Wellcome’s Victorian doll’s houses. postal service in the world.
diverse collection, including Parents beware – the exit
Napoleon’s toothbrush and leads you through a toyshop.
Florence Nightingale’s mocca-
sins, while Being Human uses 0"-=
art to explore human health Foundling Museum
and identity in the 21st century. 8
 I3 ⌂ 40 Brunswick Sq
Visitors can also discover the Fitzroy Square
WC1 1 Russell Sq # 10am–
reimagined Reading Room – a
 H3 ⌂ W1 1 Warren St, 5pm Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm
hybrid area bridging library,
Great Portland St Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 & 31 Dec
exhibition and event space –
∑ foundlingmuseum.org.uk
relax in the café or enjoy after- Designed by Robert Adam
noon tea in the restaurant. in 1794, the square’s south In 1722, Captain Thomas
The Wellcome Library, and east sides survive in Coram, a retired sailor and
which occupies the upper their original form, built in shipbuilder recently returned
floors, is the world’s largest dignified Portland stone. from the Americas and quite
collection of books devoted Blue plaques record the horrified by the poverty on
to the history of medicine. homes of many artists, London’s streets, vowed to set
160
up a refuge for abandoned
children. Assisted by two q'
friends, the artist William Grant Museum
EAT
Hogarth and the composer of Zoology
George Frideric Handel, Coram
 H3 ⌂ 21 University St
worked tirelessly to raise
WC1 1 Warren St, Euston
funds. Hogarth donated Salt Yard
Square, Russell Square
paintings to the hospital and Excellent tapas
# 1–5pm Mon–Sat ∑ ucl.
other artists followed suit. combining Spanish
ac.uk/culture/grant-
The wealthy were encouraged and Italian cuisines.
museum-zoology
to view the works of art and  H4 ⌂ 54 Goodge
visit the children, in the hope The heart of Bloomsbury’s St W1 ∑ saltyard
that they would donate university district is Gower group.co.uk
money to the cause. Street: on one side is the
]]]
On the ground floor, the Neo-Classical main building
story of the many children of University College London,
cared for here is told. The designed by William Wilkins ROKA
collection of 18th-century in 1826, and opposite is the Japanese robatayaki
paintings, sculpture, furniture original terracotta building (barbecue) specialist,
and interiors is displayed, of University College Hospital. which serves a
with one room dedicated to UCL owns several museum variety of sublime
Handel, on the upper floors. collections, including the dishes including
Next to the museum, with Grant Museum of Zoology, crab, black cod and
its entrance on Guilford Street, established in 1827. It houses prawn dumplings.
is Coram’s Fields, a unique around 68,000 specimens –  H4 ⌂ 37 Charlotte St
park for children and young- animal skeletons, taxidermy, W1 ∑ rokarestaurant.
sters (all adults must be mounted insects and other com
accompanied by children). It creatures preserved in jars ]]]
includes a youth centre, a city (including one containing
farm and a café. 18 preserved moles) – in
crowded wooden cases, Cosmoba
making it an atmospheric, Authentic, family-run
occasionally gruesome, Italian restaurant
insight into the world of 19th- with an extensive
century science and collecting. menu featuring
antipasti, pasta,
salads, fresh fish
Unusual exhibits at the and more.
Grant Museum of Zoology  I3 ⌂ 9 Cosmo Pl WC1
(inset and below) ∑ cosmoba.co.uk
]]]
DRINK
Fitzroy Tavern
Award-winning,
beautifully restored
Victorian pub.
 H4 ⌂ 16 Charlotte
St W1 § 020 7580 3714
The Queen’s Larder

Olde-worlde
Bloomsbury pub
with decent ales.
 I3 ⌂ 1 Queen
Sq WC1 ∑ queenslarder.
co.uk
161
A SHORT WALK
BLOOMSBURY
Distance 2 km (1.5 miles) Time 25 minutes
Nearest Tube Holborn
This so-called “brainy quarter” is dominated by the grand

British Museum and, to its north, the main campus of
University College London. A walk through the area will
E
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take you past Georgian buildings (formerly the homes U
SQ
of some of London’s most prolific writers and greatest L
L
minds) and pretty squares, as well as a good handful of
RUSSE
bookshops to browse.
Senate House (1932), the

administrative headquarters
of the University of London,
holds a priceless library.
MA
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An embarrassment of riches, T
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Did You Know?

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Museum Street is lined

with small cafés and
Bloomsbury is older than shops selling old books,
you think – the area is prints and antiques.
mentioned in the 1086
Domesday Book as a
“wood for 100 pigs”. Pizza Express occupies
a charming, little-altered
Victorian dairy.
162
Russell Square (p158),
once part of the Duke of BLOOMSBURY
AND FITZROVIA
Bedford’s estate, is now a
shady retreat on a hot day.
Locator Map
The Duke of Bedford’s statue
commemorates the fifth duke,
Francis Russell (1765–1805). An
avid farmer, he is shown with
sheep and a plough.
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The tower on the typically flamboyant
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(p159) is modelled on the tomb of
4th-century Greek king Mausolus.
163
The interior of St Pancras station
KING’S CROSS,
CAMDEN AND
ISLINGTON
King’s Cross was predominantly rural until the
late 18th century. It was commonly referred to
as Battle Bridge, after a mythical battle said to
have taken place here between Boudicca and the
Romans, until the new name was adopted follow
ing the erection of a memorial to George IV in 1830
at the local crossroads. By this time King’s Cross
was becoming increasingly industrial, driven partly
by the completion of the Regent’s Canal in 1820,
connecting it to the manufacturing cities of the
north of England, and then by the construction
of train depots, goods stations and passenger
service termini. Decades of decline followed
World War II but were reversed in the first years
of this century when St Pancras Station became
the terminus for international train routes to
the rest of Europe, kickstarting a multibillion
pound investment in the area. The urbanization
of neighbouring Camden and Islington, connected
to King’s Cross by the canal, did not set in until
the 19th century. With industrialization came
social decline, which lasted through much of
the last century, but since the 1980s both areas
have seen remarkable regeneration.
165
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EXPERIENCE
1'\-= 3\-=
British Library Granary Square and
Did You Know? Coal Drops Yard
 I2 ⌂ 96 Euston Rd
EXPERIENCE King’s Cross, Camden and Islington
NW1 1 King’s Cross The Soane mausoleum  I1 1 King’s Cross St

St Pancras # 9:30am– in the Old Church Pancras ∑ kingscross.co.uk
8pm Mon–Thu, 9:30am– graveyard inspired
the design of the iconic
Urban regeneration has
6pm Fri, 9:30am–5pm
red telephone box.
transformed this area behind
Sat, 11am–5pm Sun
King’s Cross station into a
¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec
∑ bl.uk
Designed by Sir Colin St John The superb special exhibitions,
EAT
Wilson and opened in 1997 held throughout the year,
after nearly 20 years of con usually have an entry charge.
struction, this controversial Tours are highly recommended
Grade I listed redbrick and include a visit to the The Lighterman
building houses the national Viewing Gallery; it’s advisable Modern British food in a
collection of books, manu to book at least two weeks first-floor dining room
scripts and maps. There are a in advance. with a spacious terrace.
staggering 170 million items
 I1 ⌂ 3 Granary
in total, which include a copy
Sq N1 ∑ thelighter
of nearly every printed book
in the UK is held here – more 2 man.co.uk
than 14 million – and these St Pancras Old Church ]]]

can be consulted by those and Graveyard
with a Reader Pass (you can Rotunda
 I1 ⌂ Pancras Rd
preregister for one online). Enjoy the plant-filled
NW1 1 King’s Cross
The real highlight, though, is terrace on the canal,
St Pancras # 9am–dusk
the Treasures of the British perfect on a sunny day.
daily (church closes at
Library, which holds some
4pm) ∑ posp.co.uk  J1 ⌂ Kings Pl, 90
extraordinary items, such as York Way N1
the Magna Carta, a Gutenberg This site is thought to have ∑ rotundabar
Bible, Shakespeare’s First been a place of Christian andrestaurant.co.uk
Folio and lyrics by the worship since the 4th century –
Beatles. There are other free there are fragments of Roman ]]]
exhibitions, which change tiles in one of the walls, and
regularly (these often close some Norman masonry – German Gymnasium
earlier than the main building though much of the building Hearty German food in
during the week), plus talks, dates to 1847. The graveyard a modern continental
discussions and workshops. was until the 1850s one of the grand café.
largest burial sites in London.  I1 ⌂ 1 King’s Blvd N1
With the arrival of the rail ∑ german
ways, half the site was built gymnasium.com
over, and gravestones were
]]]
moved – hence the remark
able sight of closely packed
gravestones embedded into Vermuteria
the base of a tree. This is the Artisanal vermouths
Hardy Tree, named after and flavoursome
author Thomas Hardy, who ciccheti in a bijou café
was in charge of excavating lined with vintage
this part of the site. cycling memorabilia.
 I1 ⌂ 38/39 Coal Drops
Yard N1 ∑ vermuteria.cc
]]]
Café tables set below
towering shelves of books
at the British Library
168
Visitors admiring the
sparkling fountains of
Granary Square at night
5\-=
St Pancras
International
 I2 ⌂ Euston Rd NW1
1 King’s Cross St Pancras
∑ stpancras.com
St Pancras, London’s
terminus for Eurostar rail
cultural and social hub, with services to continental
major building projects still 4- Europe, is hard to miss,
ongoing. The focus of the area Camley Street thanks to the extravagant
is attractive Granary Square, Natural Park frontage, in red-brick
which leads down to Regent’s gingerbread Gothic, of the
 I1 ⌂ 12 Camley St N1
Canal. It is dominated by former Midland Grand Hotel.
magnificent fountains that Opened in 1874 it was one of
# Daily; times vary, check
dance to a changing pattern the most sumptuous hotels
website ∑ wildlondon.
of lights, a magnet for small of its time, and although
org.uk
children on hot days. Granary threatened with demolition
Square sweeps down into Coal Linked to Coal Drops Yard by in the 1960s, it was saved
Drops Yard, a smart shopping a footbridge and reopened in by a campaign led by the
development converted from 2020 with an upgraded visitor poet John Betjeman (there
two Victorian coal sheds linked centre, this is a lovable little is a statue of him on the
by Thomas Heatherwick’s nature reserve run by the upper level of the station
“kissing” roof, a striking 25-m- London Wildlife Trust. It packs concourse). The hotel has
(82-ft-) high steel structure. in grassland, woodland and since been magnificently
Good restaurants and bars are wetland habitats for birds, restored and has a swish
dotted across the area, and butterflies, bats and frogs in cocktail bar.
there’s an excellent weekend a small space; the best time to
food market. On a sunny day, see wildlife is between April
grab some food and head to and August. Paths wind around
one of the green spaces dotted the reserve and there are some 6-\
around Coal Drops Yard. lovely places to sit and picnic. Kings Place
 J1 ⌂ 90 York Way N1
PLATFORM 9¾
# Galleries: 10am–6pm
Wannabe witches and Mon–Sat ∑ kingsplace.
wizards flock to King’s co.uk
Cross station to find the
elusive Platform 9 ¾, This concert and arts venue
from where Harry Potter is perched on the edge of
and his fellow students the Battlebridge Basin and
catch the Hogwarts Regent’s Canal, a small wharf
Express. Though there’s whose moorings are usually
little to be found between full of attractive narrowboats.
platforms 9 and 10, a Performances of classical,
luggage trolley embedded jazz, folk or world music are
into a concourse wall regularly staged, and there
(conveniently, next to are two commercial art
the Harry Potter Shop) galleries; one of these, the
provides a perfect photo Pangolin Gallery, is dedicated
op for those waiting for to modern and contemporary
their owl from Hogwarts. sculpture. The open spaces
are dotted with sculpture
and art.
169
EXPERIENCE King’s Cross, Camden and Islington
of quirky one-offs maintain

7\-= the market’s place among 8"-=
Camden Market the most original shopping Estorick Collection
destinations in the city. This of Modern Italian Art
 G1 ⌂ NW1 1 Camden
is also street food heaven,
Town, Chalk Farm # 10am–  L1 ⌂ 39a Canonbury Sq
with scores of stalls, cafés and
6pm daily; some cafés N1 1 Highbury & Islington
wonderfully inelegant restau-
and bars open later # 11am–6pm Wed–Sat (to
rants dishing out authentic
∑ camdenmarket.com 9pm 1st Thu of month),
nosh from all over the world.
noon–5pm Sun ∑ estorick
The huge Camden Market is Some of the more inter-
collection.com
really a series of interconnected esting stalls are in the Stables
markets running along Chalk Market towards the Chalk Based on American and
Farm Road and Camden Farm end, where you will Anglo-German couple Eric and
High Street. Packed at the also find a statue of Camden Salome Estorick’s collection
weekends, most of the shops habituée, the late singer- of modern Italian art, this is
and some of the stalls are also songwriter Amy Winehouse. one of the more surprising of
open on weekdays. Islington’s assets. It is housed
The first market here was in an unpretentious Georgian
a small crafts market set up building with a delightful
at Camden Lock in 1975, and garden, partly occupied by
today the lock, crossing the an inviting café. At the core of
Regent’s Canal, is the focus of the collection are important
this sprawling agglomeration. works of the Italian Futurism
Independently trading on movement: paintings and
an industrial scale, the warren drawings by the likes of
of hundreds of stalls, units Umberto Boccioni, Carlo
and shops occupy a network Carrà, Luigi Russolo and
of restored and converted Giuditta Scalini. Spread over
Victorian warehouses. six galleries on three floors,
The market has been at there is plenty of striking
the forefront of alternative modern Italian art of other
fashion since the days of genres, including sculpture.
punk, and the current jumble
of handmade and vintage
clothes and jewellery, arts
and crafts, records and music Bronze statue of the
memorabilia, and all kinds late Amy Winehouse
170
There is also an important
collection of Jewish ceremo- GREAT VIEW
Victorian industrial Primrose Hill
nial objects that are displayed
heritage buildings
in the Judaism gallery and, A 15-minute walk from
at Camden Lock
in the Holocaust Gallery, Camden Market or the
a moving exhibition is dedi- Jewish Museum is the
cated to Auschwitz survivor delightful Primrose Hill.
Leon Greenman. Climb to the top of this
9"-= grassy promontory for
The Jewish Museum spectacular views of
the city skyline – look
 G1 ⌂ 129–131 Albert 0\-= out for the London Eye
St NW1 1 Camden
The Angel, Islington and St Paul’s Cathedral.
Town # 10am–5pm
and Upper Street
Sat–Thu, 10am–2pm
Fri ¢ Jewish hols,  K1 ⌂ Islington N1
for antiques hunters looking
25 & 26 Dec ∑ jewish 1 Angel, Highbury &
for the latest bargain.
museum.org.uk Islington
The area to the south
London’s Jewish Museum One of the destination high of the high street, known as
was founded in 1932 in streets in north London, Angel, takes its name from
Bloomsbury, and it has Upper Street runs for 1.5 km a 17th-century coaching inn
occupied several locations – (1 mile) between Angel and on the corner of Pentonville
at one point it was split Highbury & Islington tube Road, since replaced by the
between two sites, in Finchley stations. Lively day and night, current sand-coloured
and Camden. In 2010, it the street is one long parade structure, crowned with
brought the two collections of restaurants, cafés, pubs, an elegant domed cupola.
together in a single building bars, fashion boutiques and Built in 1903 as the Angel
and today the museum a contrasting mix of civic Hotel, it now houses a bank
has four permanent galleries buildings, churches, an and offices.
celebrating Jewish life in arthouse cin ema and a live
Britain from the Middle music and clubbing venue.
Ages onwards. Among Parallel to the main drag is
the many highlights is a Camden Passage, an alleyway
Mikveh – a medieval ritual even more densely packed
bath – and a re-creation of with shops, cafés and covered
a Jewish East End street. markets. It’s a popular place
Shops and restaurants

(inset and below) line
popular Upper Street
171
St Paul’s Cathedral in the middle of the City
THE CITY
The capital’s financial district, the City, was built
on the site of the original Roman settlement. It
was, for many centuries, London in its entirety –
its full name remains the “City of London”. Royal
government was moved from the City of London
to the City of Westminster by Edward the Confessor
in the 11th century, but the area’s importance as
a centre of trade remained and indeed grew. In the
12th century, the City was granted autonomous
self-government, a privilege it has retained, and
dozens of tradesmen’s guilds, known as livery
companies, were set up. Much of the early City,
including many of the grand halls of the liveries,
was obliterated by the Great Fire of 1666, but the
jumbled street plan, with names like Cheapside
and Poultry, stand as testament to the City’s
medieval past. After the fire, Christopher Wren
rebuilt dozens of the city’s churches, with his
magnificent dome for St Paul’s Cathedral rising
above them all. Now the spires and financial insti-
tutions stand alongside dour postwar office blocks
and an ever-expanding array of skyscrapers.
173
CI CI
T T
BAT
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GO
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NORTHAMPTON
NORTHAMPTON
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EET EET
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p204 p204

THE CITY
Must Sees t The Sky Garden
1 St Paul’s Cathedral y Old Bailey
2 Tower of London u Leadenhall Market
3 Barbican Centre i Guildhall
o St Katharine Docks
Experience More
p St Katharine Cree
4 Museum of London
a Charterhouse
5 The Royal Exchange
s Museum of the Order of St John
6 Mansion House
7 Bank of England Museum Eat
8 St Mary-le-Bow 1 José Pizarro
9 St Stephen Walbrook 2 The Jugged Hare
0 Monument
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1"'-=
ST PAUL’S
CATHEDRAL
EXPERIENCE The City
 L5 ⌂ Ludgate Hill EC4 1 St Paul’s, Mansion House 3 City Thameslink,

Blackfriars # 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat (also 7–9pm Thu; Aug: to 5:30pm);
Galleries: 9:30am–4:15pm Mon–Sat (Aug: to 5:15pm) ∑ stpauls.co.uk
Holding its own against the towering skyscrapers of the City, the
enormous dome of St Paul’s Cathedral stands out as the star of
the area’s churches. Completed in 1711, Sir Christopher Wren’s
Baroque masterpiece was England’s first purpose-built Protestant
cathedral, and has many similarities with St Peter’s in Rome,
notably in its ornate dome.
Following the Great Fire of London in 1666, the medieval cathedral

of St Paul’s was left in ruins. The authorities turned to Christopher
Wren to rebuild it, but his ideas met with considerable resistance
from the conservative Dean and Chapter. Wren’s 1672
Great Model plan was rejected and a watered-down
plan was finally agreed in 1675. Wren’s deter-
mination paid off, though: the cathedral
is considered his greatest masterpiece.
Its dome is one of the largest in the world,
standing 111 m (365 ft) high and weighing
65,000 tonnes.
The cathedral has a strong choral
tradition and is famed for its music,
with regular concerts and organ recitals.
The cathedral’s imposing

west front, dominated by
its two huge towers
CHRISTOPHER WREN
Sir Christopher Wren (1632–1723) played
an integral part in the restoration of
London after the Great Fire of 1666. He
devised a new city plan, replacing the
narrow streets with wide avenues
radiating from piazzas. His plan was
rejected, but he was commissioned to
build 52 new churches; 31 have survived
various threats of demolition and the
bombs of World War II, although six have
only partial remains. Wren’s great master
piece is the massive St Paul’s, while nearly
as splendid is St Stephen Walbrook, his
domed church of 1672–7. Other landmarks
are St Bride’s, off Fleet Street, said to have
inspired the traditional shape of wedding
cakes, and St MaryleBow in Cheapside.
176
Must See
GREAT VIEW
Vista of St Paul’s
Cross the Millennium
Bridge to Bankside and
look back to capture a
great view of the
famous cathedral.
The elegant dome of

St Paul’s, viewed from
the Millennium Bridge
177
Majestic Interior on him by the cathedral authorities. Aided
Visitors to St Paul’s will be immediately by some of the finest craftsmen of his day,
impressed by its cool, beautifully ordered he created an interior of grand majesty and
and extremely spacious interior. The nave, Baroque splendour, a worthy setting for the
transepts and choir are arranged in the shape many great ceremonial events that have taken
of a cross, as in a medieval cathedral, but place here. These include the funeral of Sir
Wren’s Classical vision shines through this Winston Churchill in 1965 and the wedding of
conservative floorplan, which was forced Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer in 1981.
EXPERIENCE The City
The Golden Gallery is at the

The lantern weighs a highest point of the dome.
Illustration of massive 700 tonnes.
St Paul’s The brick cone located
Cathedral and its Completed in 2020, inside the outer dome
interior (below) a fully accessible supports the heavy lantern.
entrance to the North
Transept door was the
cathedral’s first major The Stone Gallery offers
external construction a splendid view
in 300 years. over London.
The balustrade was

added against
Wren’s wishes.
Flying buttresses support the

nave walls and the dome.
Carvings on the
pediment depict
the Conversion of
St Paul.
The main entrance is

through the West
Portico, approached
from Ludgate Hill.
The North and

South Transepts
Wren intended a cross the nave in
single colonnade a medieval style
along the West that contrasts with
Portico, but it Wren’s original plan.
now has two tiers
of columns.
178
Must See
604 1087 1708 2011

Timeline
▲ Bishop Mellitus ▲ Bishop Maurice ▲ Wren’s son ▲ Extensive
builds the first begins Old St Paul’s: Christopher lays restorations finished.
St Paul’s; it burns a Norman cathedral the last stone on
down in 1087. built of stone. the lantern.
1 The Whispering Gallery allows

views down to the wide expanse of
the crossing, the area under the dome.
2 Much of the fine wrought ironwork,
such as the screens, was made by Jean
Tijou, a Huguenot refugee.
3 Intricate carvings of cherubs, fruit
and garlands adorn the cathedral.
4 In the crypt are the tombs of
famous figures and popular heroes,
4 such as Lord Nelson.
179
The imposing walls
of the historic
Tower of London
2"'\-= INSIDER TIP
TOWER OF
Tour with a
Beefeater
Join a Yeoman Warder,
LONDON
or Beefeater, on a tour
of the Tower. A lively
retelling of tales of
executions, plots and
 O5 ⌂ Tower Hill EC3 1 Tower Hill, Tower Gateway DLR prisoners, it’s an enter
3 Fenchurch Street # 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5:30pm taining way to explore
Sun & Mon (Nov–Feb: to 4:30pm) # 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec the Tower’s history.
∑ hrp.org.uk Tours are included in
A former fortress, palace and prison, the Tower of the entry fee and set off
London attracts nearly three million visitors a year, every 30 minutes from
near the main entrance,
who come to see the Crown Jewels and to hear tales
lasting for an hour.
of its dark and intriguing history.
For much of its 900-year history, the

Tower was somewhere to be feared.
Those who had committed treason or
threatened the throne were held within
its dank walls – many did not get out
alive, and some were tortured before
meeting violent deaths on Tower Hill.
The Tower has been a tourist
attraction since the reign of Charles II
(1660–85), when both the Crown
Jewels and the collection of armour
were first shown to the public, and it
remains popular today. Come to
1066 1534–5
Timeline
discover the brutality of royal regimes,

the curious menagerie that once called ▲ William I erects a ▲ Thomas More
the Tower home and the regalia of temporary castle. imprisoned and
Britain’s kings and queens. executed.
180
Must See
Did You Know?

The Tower has a colony
of ravens. Legend
has it that if they
leave the Tower, the
kingdom will fall.
Yeoman Warders King Edward I’s bedchamber

guarding the Tower inside St Thomas’s Tower
1553–4 1603–16 1671 1941

▲ Lady Jane Grey held ▲ Walter Raleigh ▲ “Colonel Blood” tries ▲ Prominent Nazi
and executed. imprisoned in Tower. to steal Crown Jewels. Rudolf Hess held in
Queen’s House.
181
Life Within the Tower The White Tower
The area within the mighty walls houses The Crown Jewels
the remaining parts of the Medieval Palace are kept in the
built by Henry III, as well as several towers Jewel House.
that held prisoners, including Anne Boleyn,
Thomas Cromwell and Catherine Howard.
High-ranking prisoners could live in some
comfort with their own servants but the
rest suffered hardship, torture
EXPERIENCE The City
and, ultimately, death.
The aristocratic
prisoners were executed
on Tower Green.
Beauchamp Tower held

high-ranking prisoners.
Edward V and his brother,

Richard, are said to
have been murdered in
the Bloody Tower.
Did You Know?

In 1952, London gangsters
the Kray twins were
among the last to be Main
held at the Tower. entrance
1 2
1 A sentry from the Tower

Guard stands on duty outside
the Jewel House.
2 Many were imprisoned in
the Tower, some tortured or
held in solitary confinement.
3 The Tower of London
enclosure is on the edge of
the city beside the Thames
and Tower Bridge. There
are several towers, a palace,
3 residences and a chapel.
182
Must See
The beautiful Chapel
of St John is made
from stone brought The Crown Jewels
Gallery Rooms
from France.
Comprising crowns, sceptres and orbs used at
coronations and other state occasions, the price
less Crown Jewels (below) have enormous historical
significance. They mostly date from 1661 when a
new set was created for the coronation of Charles II.
Coronation
Wakefield Tower Regalia
was part of the
Medieval Palace. Apart from the crowns,
other items used during
Prisoners entered coronation ceremonies
the Tower by boat (left) include the Orb, the
through Traitors’ Gate. jewelled State Sword and
the Sceptre with the Cross
Henry III
containing the world’s
created the
Medieval biggest cut diamond.
Palace in 1220.
His son Edward
I enlarged it. The walls enclose towers, Royal Armouries
residences and open areas On the ground floor of the White
Tower, admire suits of armour from
Tudor and Stuart times (right),
including a gargantuan set made
for Henry VIII, famed for its
THE PRINCES IN THE TOWER
impressive codpiece. The armour
One of the Tower’s darkest mysteries collection incorporates the famed
concerns two boy princes, sons and heirs Line of Kings, a visitor attraction
of Edward IV. They were put into the Tower for at least 350 years.
by their uncle, Richard of Gloucester, when
their father died in 1483. Neither was seen
again and Richard was crowned later that
year. In 1674, the skeletons of two children
Graffiti in the
were found nearby. Beauchamp
Tower
Surprisingly elaborate carvings grace the walls of
this tower, poignant messages from 16th and
17thcentury prisoners facing
execution. One shows the
family crest of Lord
Dudley, teenage
husband of the
illfated Lady
Jane Grey,
imprisoned
with his
three
brothers.
EXPERIENCE The City
The Barbican’s concrete

Brutalist architecture with
lake and fountains
3'\-=
BARBICAN CENTRE
 M4 ⌂ Barbican Estate EC2 1 Barbican, Moorgate 3 Moorgate,
Liverpool St # 9am–11pm daily (from 11am Sun, from noon public hols);
Art gallery: 10am–6pm Sun–Wed, 10am–9pm Thu–Sat; Conservatory:
selected Sat & Sun, check website ∑ barbican.org.uk
A Brutalist masterpiece, this residential, commercial and cultural

complex is a formidable, fabulous anomaly in the City: an oasis of
culture and community in London’s largest financial district. Look
out for world-class theatrical performances and concerts here.
The soul at the concrete heart of the Barbican
Estate, the Barbican Centre is one of London’s
largest and most complete arts institutions,
with two cinemas, a concert hall, two theatres
and gallery spaces all celebrating the arts.
The centre is also home to a public library,
three restaurants, several cafés and bars and a
tropical conservatory. A dynamic programme
of events typically includes seasons of plays by
the Royal Shakespeare Company, concerts by
the resident London Symphony Orchestra, and
plenty of independent cinema. The centre has
always made room for experimental, genre-
defying performers and artists, so expect
anything from multimedia art exhibitions to
street dance operas. Jazz and world music also
feature frequently, with musicians and singers
from Latin American, Asia and Africa often on The Barbican Hall, well
the bill, but at any time you will find a broad known for its world
range of one-off shows and events. music performances
184
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
On the museum’s lowest level,
4'\-= the history of London after the
Museum of London disastrous fire up to the pre-
sent day is explored. Pride of
 L4 ⌂ 150 London Wall
place here, though, goes to the
EC2 1 Barbican, St Paul’s,
Lord Mayor of London’s spec-
Moorgate # 10am–6pm
tacular State Coach; dating
daily ∑ museumoflondon.
from 1757, this beautifully
org.uk
gilded coach is still paraded
Opened in 1976 on the edge once a year during the Lord
of the Barbican Estate, this Mayor’s Show. The Victorian
museum provides a lively Walk uses several original
account of London life from shopfronts to re-create the
prehistoric times to the atmosphere of late-19th-cen-
present day. The eclectic set tury London. There are also
of displays, which are laid out the Art Deco Edgar Brandt lifts
chronologically, range from from Selfridges department
detailed models and life-sized store on Oxford Street (1928)
sets to items recovered from and unusual items such as a
archaeological digs, photo- 1964 Beatles dress printed with
graphs and recordings of the faces of the Fab Four.
Londoners talking about Another of the permanent
their lives. galleries is the London 2012
Prehistory exhibits, such Cauldron, the centrepiece
as flint hand axes found in of the opening and closing
the gravels under the modern ceremonies at the London
city, begin on the entrance Olympics. Photographs,
level and visitors can walk videos, diagrams and the
through Roman and medieval copper petal elements which
London galleries to the War, rose together to form the
Plague and Fire exhibit, which Olympic Flame combine to
includes a display on the describe the spectacle and
Great Fire of 1666. the ingenuity of the design.
THE BARBICAN
ESTATE
Housing over 4,000
residents in its
Brutalist tower and
terrace blocks, this
ambitious piece of
postwar city planning
was designed by
Chamberlin, Powell &
Bon and built on a site
devastated by World
War II bombs. It is
a maze of concrete
pavements, overhead
walkways, stone
staircases and looming
tower blocks, but it is
softened considerably
by islands of green –
small gardens dotted
around the estate –
and by an ornamental
lake and fountains. Visitors examining exhibits at
the fascinating Museum of London
185
familiar City landmark.
5\-= Guided tours take in the state HIDDEN GEM
The Royal Exchange rooms, which have a dignity London
appropriate to the office of Mithraeum
 N5 ⌂ EC3 1 Bank
mayor, one of the most spec Beneath Bloomberg’s
∑ theroyalexchange.co.uk
tacular being the 27m (90ft) London headquarters
Sir Thomas Gresham, an Egyptian Hall, and the Harold on Walbrook, a 2-minute
Elizabethan merchant and Samuel Collection, one of walk from the Mansion
courtier, founded the Royal the most important collec House, the London
EXPERIENCE The City
Exchange in 1565 as a centre tions of 17thcentury Dutch Mithraeum preserves

for commerce of all kinds. The art anywhere in the country; the remains of a 3rd-
original building was centred in particular, look out for century temple built by
on a vast courtyard where several pieces by Frans Hals. followers of a bizarre
merchants and tradesmen did Roman god cult. A
business. Queen Elizabeth I sound-and-light show
gave it its royal title and it is brings one of the secret
still one of the sites from which 7= ceremonies to life. Book
Bank of England ahead online (www.
a new monarch is announced.
Museum londonmithraeum.com).
Dating from 1844, this is the
third splendid building on
 M5 ⌂ Bartholomew Lane
the site since Gresham’s. The
EC2 1 Bank # 10am–5pm
building is now a luxurious building. There is now a
Mon–Fri ¢ Public hols
shopping centre with designer reconstruction of Soane’s
∑ bankofengland.co.uk
stores and a branch of stock office of 1793 in the
Fortnum & Mason (p95) with The Bank of England was set museum. As well as images
an elegant central bar and café. up in 1694 to raise money illustrating the architectural
for foreign wars. It grew to history of the building, the
become Britain’s central bank, museum reveals the work of
and also issues currency notes. the Bank and financial system,
6"' Sir John Soane (p143) was the and there is an interactive
Mansion House architect of the 1788 bank exbibit where visitors can
building on this site, but only set monetary policy.
 M5 ⌂ Walbrook EC4
the exterior wall of his design Glittering gold bars (which
1 Bank, Mansion House
has survived. The rest was you can touch), silverplated
# 2pm Tue, by prebooked
destroyed in the 1920s and decorations and a Roman
guided tour ∑ cityof
1930s when the building was mosaic floor, which was discov
london.gov.uk
enlarged by Sir Herbert Baker. ered during the rebuilding,
The official residence of the The only part of Soane’s design are among the items on
Lord Mayor was designed left today is the curtain wall display, along with a unique
by George Dance the Elder around the outside of the collection of banknotes.
and completed in 1758. The
Palladian front with its six
Corinthian columns is a very The Neo-Classical façade
of the Royal Exchange
9
St Stephen Walbrook
 M5 ⌂ 39 Walbrook
EC4 1 Bank, Cannon St
# 10am–4pm Mon, Tue
& Thu, 11am–3pm Wed,
10am–3:30pm Fri
∑ ststephenwalbrook.net
The Lord Mayor’s parish

church was built by architect
Christopher Wren in 1672–9
and it is considered the
finest of his City churches.
Indeed, the deep, coffered
dome, with its ornate plaster
work, was a forerunner of
St Paul’s Cathedral.
St Stephen’s airy columned
interior comes as a surprise
after its plain exterior. The
font cover and pulpit canopy
are decorated with exquisite
carved figures that contrast
strongly with the stark
simplicity of Henry Moore’s
massive white stone altar
(1972), installed in 1987.
St Mary-le-Bow’s However, perhaps the most
steeple, housing moving monument of all is a
Bow bells telephone in a glass box. This
is a tribute to Rector Chad
Varah who, in 1953, founded
the Samaritans, a volunteer
Bow bells have significance for Londoners: staffed telephone helpline
traditionally only those born within their for people in emotional need.
sound can claim to be true Cockneys. The church is also the home
of the London Internet Church,
which brings together people
significance for Londoners: from all over the world to wor
8'\ traditionally only those born ship and discuss Christianity.
St Mary-le-Bow within their sound can claim to There are free lunchtime
be true Cockneys. Tours of the music recitals on Tuesdays
 M5 ⌂ Cheapside EC2
church are offered by arrange (1pm) and Fridays (12:30pm),
1 St Paul’s, Mansion House
ment, and there are free to which you are welcome to
# 7am–6pm Mon–Fri
lunchtime recitals on Tuesdays. bring and eat a packed lunch.
∑ stmarylebow.org.uk
The church takes its name

from the bow arches in the THE CITY’S LIVERY HALLS
Norman crypt. When Wren There are around 110 livery companies in London, each
rebuilt the church (in 1670– traditionally representing a specific profession or trade.
80) after the Great Fire, he They were first created by groups of medieval tradesmen
continued this pattern who formed associations, or guilds, to protect, promote
through the arches on the and regulate their trades, setting up headquarters in
steeple. The weathervane is large houses or halls around the City. Though many did
an enormous dragon. not survive the Great Fire, several dozen companies
The church was bombed in maintain their own hall to this day, while blue plaques
1941, leaving only the steeple mark former halls. Some have grand, ornate interiors
and two walls standing, and worthy of a palace, but they are difficult places to visit – a
when it was restored in 1956– few allow group tours, others are not publicly accessible.
62, the bells were recast and
rehung. Bow bells have
187
tessellated floor, discovered can peer vertiginously down
10 " in 1926, on display in the Crypt to the traffic below, requires
Monument Museum, along with other a ticket. This includes entry
Roman and Saxon artifacts. to the exhibition in the North
 N5 ⌂ Monument St EC3
The church carried out the Tower and the Engine Rooms,
1 Monument # Platform:
temporary burials of those reached via the South Tower,
9:30am–6pm daily (last
executed on nearby Tower and a look at the steam engine
adm: 5:30pm) ¢ 24–26 Dec
Hill, including Thomas More, that powered the lifting
∑ themonument.org.uk
and it was from the church machinery until 1976, when
EXPERIENCE The City
The column designed by Wren tower that Samuel Pepys the system was electrified.
to commemorate the Great watched the Great Fire
Fire of London of 1666 is the consume London in 1666.
tallest isolated stone column
in the world. It is 61.5 m (202 ft) e
high and is said to be 61.5 m Smithfield Market
west of where the fire started, w"'=
 L4 ⌂ Charterhouse
in Pudding Lane. Reliefs around Tower Bridge
St EC1 1 Farringdon,
the column’s base show Charles
 O6 ⌂ SE1 1 Tower Hill Barbican # 2–9am
II restoring the city. It’s a tough
# 9:30am–5pm daily Mon–Fri ¢ Public hols
climb up 311 steps to the top
¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ tower ∑ smithfield market.com
of the column, but the views
bridge.org.uk
are spectacular. Animals have been traded
Completed in 1894, this here since the 12th century,
flamboyant piece of Victorian but the site was granted its
engineering is a symbol of first official charter in 1400.
11 ' London. Its pinnacled towers In 1648, Smithfield was
All Hallows by and linking catwalk support officially established as a
the Tower the mechanism for raising the cattle market, and live cattle
roadway when big ships have continued to be sold here
 N5 ⌂ Byward St EC3
to pass through, or for special until the mid-19th century.
1 Tower Hill # 8am–6pm
occasions; check the website Today, it confines itself to
Mon–Fri (Nov–Mar: to 5pm),
for details. When raised, the wholesale trading in meat
10am–5pm Sat & Sun
bridge is 40 m (135 ft) high.
¢ Public hols ∑ ahbtt.org.uk
Walking across the bridge is
The oldest church in the free but access to the elevated Tower Bridge, an
city retains some original walkways, which includes a enduring symbol
Saxon features and a Roman glass section from which you of London
Walkways, open to the public, Lifts and 300 steps

give panoramic views over lead to the top of The Victorian
the Thames and London. the towers. winding
machinery
was originally
powered
The roadway, when by steam.
raised, is big enough for
large cargo ships.
Engine
room Entrance
SOUTH BANK
NORTH BANK
188
The Sky Garden, top
deck of the “Walkie-
Talkie” building
and poultry. It was originally statesman Benjamin Franklin

sited in Smithfield, outside worked for a printer in the 16
the City walls and, although Lady Chapel. The church also Old Bailey
moved to its present location featured in the films Four
 L4 ⌂ EC4 1 St Paul’s
in Charterhouse Street in the Weddings and a Funeral,
# 9:55am–12:40pm &
1860s and called the London Shakespeare in Love and
1:55–3:40pm Mon–Fri
Central Meat Market, the The Other Boleyn Girl.
(reduced times Aug; hours
original name stuck. The old
vary from court to court)
buildings are by Victorian
¢ Public hols ∑ cityof
architect Horace Jones,
but there are 20th-century 15 \ - london.gov.uk
additions. Some pubs in The Sky Garden The new Central Criminal
the area keep market hours, Courts opened here in 1907
 N5 ⌂ 20 Fenchurch St
serving hearty breakfasts on the site of the infamous
EC3 1 Bank, Monument
from dawn. Now modernized, and malodorous Newgate
# 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (last
the market is one of the best- prison. Across the road, the
adm: 5pm), 11am–9pm Sat &
equipped meat markets in Magpie and Stump pub
Sun (last adm: 8pm)
the world. Visitors should served “execution breakfasts”
∑ skygarden.london
aim to arrive by 7am. until 1868, when mass public
The Rafael Viñoly-designed 20 hangings outside the gates
Fenchurch Street is commonly were stopped. Today, the
known as the “Walkie-Talkie”, courts are open to the public
r" thanks to its unusual shape. when in session.
St Bartholomew- Not without controversy (its
the-Great shape and position make it
particularly obtrusive on the
 L4 ⌂ West Smithfield EC1
city skyline), it is one of a few
DRINK
1 Barbican # 8:30am–5pm
skyscrapers with free public
Mon–Fri (mid-Nov–mid-Feb:
access, provided that you book
to 4pm), 10:30am–4pm Sat,
ahead for the Sky Garden, a
8:30am–8pm Sun Merchant House
three-level viewing deck.
∑ greatstbarts.com Hidden away down an
Tickets are released each
alley, this basement bar
One of London’s oldest chur- Monday for bookings up to
and lounge serves up
ches, St Bart’s was founded in three weeks ahead and go
exceptional cocktails,
1123 by a courtier of Henry I. quickly. The bars and restau-
which evoke the Empire.
The 13th-century arch used rants here stay open till late.
The Brig, a private bar
to be the door; the gatehouse This is a perfect place from
inside seating up to
above it is from a later period. which to view London’s other
4 people, can also
The crossing and chancel are mega-structures. To the south
be booked.
original, with fine Norman is the Shard (p214); north are
detailing. There are also some Tower 42, the “Gherkin” and  M5 ⌂ 13 Well Court,
off Bow Lane EC4 ¢ Sun
Tudor monuments. In the the Leadenhall Building, aka
∑ merchanthouse.bar
south transept is a gilded the “Cheesegrater”, “The
statue of St Bartholomew by Scalpel” and 22 Bishopsgate,
Damien Hirst. In 1725, US the City’s tallest skyscraper.
189
Elegant wrought-iron
and glass vaulting at
Leadenhall Market
City for at least 800 years. spectators, the arena would

17 \ - = For centuries its Great Hall have hosted animal hunts,
Leadenhall Market was used for trials, and many executions and gladiatorial
people were condemned to combat. Public access to the
 N5 ⌂ Gracechurch St EC3
death here, including Henry atmospheric ruins is through
1 Bank, Monument # 24
Garnet, one of the Gunpowder the art gallery.
hours; business times vary
Plot conspirators.
∑ leadenhallmarket.co.uk
Overlooking the Great Hall Guildhall Art Gallery
There has been a food market at one end are the figures of # 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–
here, on the site of a Roman legendary giants Gog and 4pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec
forum, since the Middle Ages. Magog, the guardians of the
Today’s ornate Victorian City, while statues of notable
covered shopping arcade was figures such as Churchill and
designed in 1881 by Sir Horace Nelson line its 46-m- (150-ft-) 19 \ - =
Jones and Leadenhall is now long sides. Each year, a few St Katharine Docks
home to boutique wine shops, days after the Lord Mayor’s
 O6 ⌂ E1 1 Tower Hill
cheesemongers, florists and parade, the prime minister
∑ skdocks.co.uk
fine food shops, along with addresses a banquet here.
several traditional pubs and On the south side of This most central of all
wine bars. At Christmas the Guildhall Yard is a Wren- London’s docks was designed
decorated stores are an designed church, St Lawrence by Thomas Telford and
attractive sight. Jewry, while on the east side opened in 1828 on the site
is the Guildhall Art Gallery. of St Katharine’s Hospital.
It houses the studio collection Commodities as diverse as
of 20th-century artist Sir tea, marble and live turtles
18 = Matthew Smith, portraits from (turtle soup was a Victorian
Guildhall the 16th century to the present delicacy) were unloaded here.
day, 18th-century works During the 19th and early
 M4 ⌂ Guildhall Yard EC2
including John Singleton 20th centuries, the docks
1 St Paul’s # Great Hall:
Copley’s Defeat of the Floating flourished, but by the mid-
10am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–
Batteries at Gibraltar, and 20th century, cargo ships
4pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 & 26
numerous Victorian works. were delivering their wares
Dec, occasionally for
In 1988, the foundations in massive containers. The
events ∑ guildhall.
of a Roman amphitheatre old docks became too small
cityoflondon.gov.uk
were discovered beneath the and closed in 1968.
Guildhall has been the gallery. Built in AD 70 and with The redevelopment of
administrative centre of the a capacity of about 6,000 St Katharine’s has been one
190
of the City’s most successful –
the old warehouse buildings 21 ' - =
have shops and restaurants Charterhouse
on their ground floors, and
offices above. In front is a
 L3 ⌂ Charterhouse
Sq EC1 1 Barbican
EAT
marina, and there are other
# Museum: 11am–5:20pm José Pizarro
entertainment facilities.
Tue–Sat ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec Classic Spanish tapas
The dock is well worth
∑ thecharterhouse.org and inventive dishes.
wandering through after visit
ing the Tower (p180) or Tower The Tudor gateway on the  N4 ⌂ 36 Broadgate
Bridge (p188). A weekly street north side of Charterhouse Circle EC2 ¢ Sat & Sun
food market is held here on ∑ josepizarro.com
square leads to the site of a
Saturdays from 11am to 3pm. former Carthusian monastery, ]]]
which was dissolved under
Henry VIII. In 1611, the build
The Jugged Hare
ings were converted into a
20 hospital for poor pensioners,
Gastropub serving
excellent game dishes.
St Katharine Cree and a charity school – called
Charterhouse – whose  M3 ⌂ 49 Chiswell St
 N5 ⌂ 86 Leadenhall St EC1 ∑ thejugged
pupils included Methodism
EC3 1 Aldgate, Tower Hill hare.com
founder John Wesley, writer
# 11am–3pm Tue ¢ Aug
William Thackeray and Robert ]]]
∑ stkatherinecree.com
BadenPowell, founder of
A rare preWren 17thcentury the Boy Scouts.
church with a medieval tower, In 1872, the school
this was one of only eight relocated to Godalming in
in the City to survive the Surrey. Part of the original site
fire of 1666. Some of the was subsequently taken over 22 ' =
elaborate plasterwork on by St Bartholomew’s Hospital Museum of the Order
and beneath the high ceiling medical school. Some of the of St John
of the nave portrays the old buildings remain, including
 L3 ⌂ St John’s Lane EC1
coats of arms of the guilds, the chapel and part of the
1 Farringdon # 10am–5pm
with which the church has cloisters. Today Charterhouse
Mon–Sat (Jul–Sep: daily) ¢ 3
special links. The rose window is still home to more than 40
weeks over Christmas/Jan
is said to be modelled on pensioners supported by the
∑ museumstjohn.org.uk
that of old St Paul’s Cathedral, charitable foundation. There is
destroyed in the Great a small museum open to all, The Tudor gatehouse and
Fire. The 17thcentury but access to the rest of the parts of the 12thcentury
organ, supported by carved site is by guided tour only, con church are all that remain of
columns, has been played ducted every day except Sunday the priory of the Knights of
by Purcell and Handel. and Monday; book online. St John, which flourished here
for 400 years and was the
precursor of the St John
St Katharine Docks, Ambulance. Over the years,
a working quay the priory buildings have
turned marina had many uses, such as
offices for Elizabeth I’s Master
of the Revels and a coffee
shop run by the artist William
Hogarth’s father.
The museum contains
hundreds of treasures from
the order’s history, including
illuminated manuscripts and
a bronze cannon donated by
Henry VIII. The rest of the
building, including the priory
church with its 12thcentury
crypt, can be seen on free
guided tours at 11am and
2:30pm on Tuesdays, Fridays
and Saturdays, and on Sundays
at 2pm from July to September.
191
A SHORT WALK
THE CITY Did You Know?
Watling Street is a section
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Time 25 minutes of a Roman road that once
Nearest Tube St Paul’s extended from the Kent
coast to Shrewsbury
EXPERIENCE The City
This route through the business centre of London in Shropshire.

unsurprisingly takes in vast institutions, such as the
the Bank of England and Bloomberg’s European
headquarters. Alongside these 20th- and 21st-
century buildings stand the majestic architectural
visions of Christopher Wren, England’s most sublime
and probably most prolific architect (p176). Marvel
at his genius as you pass some of his churches.
Anyone born within
earshot of the bells of
St Paul’s Wren’s St Mary-le-Bow
station (the historic Bow Bells) is
said to be a true Londoner
or Cockney (p187).
START
NE
EET
E
W CHANGE
LAN
STR
BOW
WAT L I
NG
S T P A U L’ S C H U R C H Y A R D STR
EET
AD
BRE
GODLIMAN STREET
CANN
ON S
TREE
T
ST
F R I DAY
IA
TOR
VIC
E EN
QU
Mansion
Wren’s master- House
piece – St Paul’s station
Cathedral – still
dominates the
City skyline
(p176).
St James Garlickhythe’s
The College of St Nicholas Cole name refers to a medieval
Arms assesses Abbey was the first Thames wharf where
who has a church Wren built in the garlic was landed.
legitimate claim City (in 1677). Like many
to a British family others, it had to be St Mary Aldermary was
coat of arms. restored after World War rebuilt in Gothic style by
II bomb damage. Wren after the Great Fire.
192
THE CITY
Locator Map
Buses driving past

the beautiful Mansion House is The intriguing story of
the official home of England’s financial system
St Paul’s Cathedral
the City of London’s is explored at the Bank of
Lord Mayor and has England Museum (p186).
fine artworks (p186).
E
Bank station
LAN
RY
GER
PR
JEW
IN
ON
OLD
ST
CE
NM
KING
’S
IRO
ET
RE
ST
E ST
RE
DL
EE
DN
ET
R EA
TH
FINISH
CORNHILL
LO
MB
AR
D
ST
T The Royal
EE
S TR Exchange is
at the heart
KIN
of London’s
G
commerce
WI
LL
(p186).
IA
M
’S
IN
ST
ITH
RE
ET
Lombard Street is
SW
CAN named after Italian

NO
ST
N S bankers who settled

TR
EE here in the 13th
T
century. It is still a
banking centre.
The dome of St St Mary Woolnoth is a

Stephen Walbrook characteristically powerful
(p187) is a forerunner work by Wren’s pupil,
to that atop St Paul’s. Nicholas Hawksmoor.
Beneath the Bloomberg St Mary Abchurch owes its

building, the London unusually spacious feel to
0 metres 100 N Mithraeum is a the large dome designed
3rd-century temple by Wren. Admire the altar
0 yards 100 to a Roman cult god. carving by Grinling Gibbons.
193
Trendy street food complex in Shoreditch
SHOREDITCH
AND SPITALFIELDS
Just outside the boundaries of the City, Spitalfields
has long revolved around its market, which first
emerged in the late 17th century after traders
had begun operating outside the city gates. As
the market expanded people began to settle in
its vicinity, notably Huguenots fleeing religious
persecution in France. The Huguenots also moved
to nearby Shoreditch and their skilled weavers
soon dominated the textile industry in the area.
Waves of Irish, then Jewish and most recently
Bangladeshi immigrants followed. The market
survived, was given its own building in the late
19th century and flourished for decades as a
wholesale market. It was saved from destruction
in the early years of this century and reborn as
a market for vintage clothing, antiques, arts and
crafts, in keeping with the recent gentrification of
the area, extending across Shoreditch and beyond.
195
RD
RD
QUEENS
QUEENS
ROAD ROAD
KINGSLAND
KINGSLAND
HO
HO
N N
ISTO ISTO
XT
XT
WH WH
STREET L STREET
BRIDGE
BRI
ON
ON
AL A
TT TT
NU NU
STR
STR
APPLEBY STREET
APPLEBY STREET
EE T
EE T
PITFIELDS TREET
PITFIELDS TREET
ROAD
Museum Museum
of of
the Homethe Home REET REET
T T D U N L O E S TD U N L O E S T
S TR E E S TR E E
L OCK OCK Hoxton Hoxton
WEN W ENL
H
L LE E T
S TA R
CRONDALL CROND STREET
PITFIELD ST
PITFIELD ST
NE NE FALKIR K STREE
FALKIR
T K STREE T
VE VE W W C R EME C R EME
GRO GRO R R
RA
RA
NO NO
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RD
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RAY RAY RT RT
VEN
VEN
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HO XTON
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NAZRUL
NAZRUL
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S C R STRE
SCR
U N D ERR EE T
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KINGSLAND
KINGSLAND
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ST
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ET
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ET ST RE ET
EN ST RE
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VE VE Hoxton Hoxton
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ST
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CI CI CHART ST CHART ST
PR O VO
PR O VO
NIA
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DRYSDALE DRYSDALE
TY TY
H
PITFIELD
PITFIELD
HOXTON STREET
HOXTON STREET
BAT
BAT
SQUARE SQUARE
RO RO AM ST AM ST
AD ACOD RSH CORSH CORONET CORONET
H
STREET STREET
CHARLES CHARLES
St Leonard's
St Leonard's
SHOR E D I T
SHOR E D I T
SQUARE SQUARE
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SWA
BOOT ST BOOT ST
SS ST SS ST OOD OOD Church Church
STR
STR
LE LE CRANW ET CRANW ET
PEER PEER
EET TREET
CUR TAI N
CUR TAI N
N F IE
N F IE
C A LV E C
STRE STRE
STR S R T A V A LV E R T A V
ST RE E T ST RE E T E E
BR
BR
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OLD LD R I V I N GT O N R I V I N GT O N ARNOLD ARNOLD
LD
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ICK
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AT EA
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CLUB
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Rich Rich
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ET
ET
W IL LO W IL ST ST
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RE OL D NI OL D NI RO
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ET D YARD RC H ST
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ACL
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NAC
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N
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Fields Fields and Leysian
andMission
Leysian Mission SC ST SC ST
OAD
R OAD
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L L L L
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H ORTCEDI
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OW R
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High Street
RO WE
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RIN RIN
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Y
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ST RE ET ST RE ET Brick Brick
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Lane Lane
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ST
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GAT
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FINSBURY FINSBURY Dennis Dennis

STR
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Severs’ House
19 Princelet
19 Princelet
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TON
TON
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ET L ST RE ET Street Street
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LD
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WILKES ST
EXCHANGE EXCHANGE
PO
PO
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NOR
NOR
STR STR SQUARE SQUARE

AP
AP
SILK
STRE
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Spitalfields Jamme Jam
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KER KER SQUARE SQUARE
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ET STREET
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The The BRUSHFIE BRUSHFIE
BarbicanBarbican Moorgate Moorgate Liverpool Liverpool Christ Church,
Christ Church, C H IC
THE CITY
THE CITY Street Street
ARTILL
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WE
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OL STR
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D EE
D EE
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Whitechape
GO STRE
GO TRE
WAL WAL
MOO
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CA T
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L L DEVONSHIRE DEVONSHIRE
UL ET
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S
Gallery Gallery
ST
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ST
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AT
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ST
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Bank of Bank of Aldgate Aldgate
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England England
APSI HEAPSI
NS E
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DE D Royal Exchange
Royal Exchange
P O U LE P O U L L E A D E N H LAEL AL D SE TNRHEAELTL S T R E E T
MIN
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CAN CAN Market Market

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T
EET EET FEN FEN Street Street

CHURC H C HS U
MINO
MINO
T RCH ST
Cannon Cannon
Street Street
RIE S
RIE S
Tower Tower
EA ST C H E A P EA ST C H E A P
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Gateway DLR
GR GR
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TT
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TT Tower Tower
OW OW Hill Hill
ER ER
ST ST
HILL WER HILL
TOWER TO
WHISTON OA
W H I SRT O ND ROAD

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SHOREDITCH
SHOREDITCH
AND SPITALFIELDS
AND SPITALFIELDS
W
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HA HA
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PLE
A C K N E YH A C K N E Y
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MA
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CLA TREE CLA TREE
NS
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V&A Museum
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of Childhood
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IDA IDA
N ST
N ST
BE
BE
FLOR FLOR ROAD ROAD
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GREE GREE
RO
RO
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COR
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WILMOT
NAL ETHNAL
ET
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FIEL
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D ST
D ST
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V A LL A
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AVENUE
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AN
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D W
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BR
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W HIT ECHA E ND E ND
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S
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mme HA ROAD ROAD
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JU B IL EE S T R E ET
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SHOREDITCH AND SPITALFIELDS
T Experience w Columbia Road Market
HS
1 Old Spitalfields Market e Rich Mix
2 Wesley’s Chapel and r Museum of the Home
Leysian Mission t V&A Museum of Childhood
3 Petticoat Lane
ST
Eat
4 Bunhill Fields
1 Dinerama
5 Brick Lane
2 The Brick Lane Food Hall
6 Hoxton
3 Sunday Upmarket
7 Dennis Severs’ House
4 Ely’s Yard
8 Whitechapel Gallery
9 19 Princelet Street Shop
0 Christ Church, Spitalfields 5 Boxpark
q St Leonard’s Church
Independent traders with
their wares on display at
Old Spitalfields Market
EXPERIENCE
items. This is also a major and French jasper pillars,
1\-= foodie destination, with superb which replaced the original
Old Spitalfields street food from top names, ones made from ships’ masts.
Market both global and local – from Beneath the chapel is a
Pacific pokè and Burmese museum devoted to the
 O3 ⌂ 16 Horner Sq E1
tea leaf salad to East Anglian history of Methodism; within
1 Liverpool St, Aldgate
oysters and the unrivalled this voluminous collection are
# Market stalls: 10am–6pm
Reuben sandwich from the portraits, furniture, books and
daily (to 5pm Sun), 8am–
iconic Monty’s Deli. ceramics. There are free lunch-
6pm Thu ∑ oldspitalfields
time recitals most Tuesdays.
market.com
Produce has been traded at

Spitalfields Market since 1682, 2'=
though the original covered Wesley’s Chapel and 3=
market buildings date to Leysian Mission Petticoat Lane
1887. The vegetable market
 M3 ⌂ 49 City Rd EC1  O4 ⌂ Middlesex St E1
finally moved out in 1991,
1 Old Street, Moorgate 1 Aldgate East, Aldgate,
after which today’s version
# 10am–4pm Mon–Sat Liverpool St # 9am–3pm
of the market – known for
∑ wesleyschapel.org.uk Sun (main market); 8am–
antiques, fashion, bric-a-brac
4pm Mon–Fri (smaller
and crafts stalls – started to John Wesley, the founder of
market on Wentworth St)
take shape. Today the market the Methodist Church, laid this
space is a mix of restaurants, chapel’s foundation stone in During the prudish Victorian
shops and traditional market 1777. He preached here until his era, the name of this street,
stalls. It is open every day; death in 1791 and is buried long famous for its market,
Thursdays are good for behind the chapel. Next door was changed to the more
antiques and collectables, is the house where he lived, in respectable but colourless
and every other Friday for which some of his furniture, Middlesex Street. That is still
vinyl records, but it is on books and other possessions its official designation, but the
Sundays that the crowds can be seen. The chapel is more old name, derived from the
really arrive, in search of ornate than in Wesley’s day, petticoats and lace sold here
vintage clothing and unique with stained-glass windows by the Huguenots who came
from France, has stuck, and is
Thursdays are good for antiques and collectables, now applied to the market
held every Sunday morning
and every other Friday for vinyl records, but it is
in this and the surrounding
on Sundays that the crowds really arrive, in streets. Though the street is
search of vintage clothing and unique items. not particularly attractive, the
198
lively market creates plenty of
atmosphere. A great variety
of goods are sold, but there is
still a bias towards clothing,
especially leather coats. It’s a
noisy and cheerful scene, with
Cockney stallholders making
use of their wit to attract
custom. There are street-food
vendors for pitstops.
4'
Bunhill Fields
Upmarket stalls at the
 M3 ⌂ 38, City Rd EC1
Old Truman Brewery
1 Old Street # 8am–7pm or
estate on Brick Lane
dusk Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm
or dusk Sat, Sun & public
hols ¢ 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec EAT
∑ cityoflondon.gov.uk 5\-= Dinerama
Situated on the edge of the Brick Lane Best spot for street food
city, and shaded by large plane after dark, this old truck
 O3 ⌂ E1 1 Liverpool St,
trees, this burial ground was depot offers craft beer
Aldgate East 3 Shoreditch
first designated a cemetery and cocktails.
High St # Market: 10am–
after the Great Plague of 1665,  N3 ⌂ 19 Great
5pm Sun ∑ visitbrick
when it was enclosed by a Eastern St EC2 # Thu–
lane.org
brick wall and gates. Twenty Sat ∑ streetfeast.com
years later it was allocated to Once a lane running through
]]]
Nonconformists, who were brickfields, Brick Lane has
banned from being buried in long been synonymous with
churchyards because of their the area’s British-Bangladeshi The Brick Lane
refusal to use the Church of community. Now their curry Food Hall
England prayer book. houses sit next to hip galleries Treats from Poland,
It’s now the final resting and quirky boutiques. Shops Ethiopia, Japan, Korea
place of writers Daniel Defoe, and houses, some dating and more inside a red-
John Bunyan and William from the 18th century, have brick warehouse.
Blake, clergyman and hymn seen immigrants of many  O3 ⌂ Old Truman
writer Isaac Watts, as well as nationalities, and ethnic Brewery, Brick Lane E1
members of the Cromwell foods, spices, silks and saris # Sat & Sun
family. John Milton wrote his are all on sale here. In the ]]]
epic poem Paradise Lost while 19th century this was mainly a
he lived in Bunhill Row, Jewish quarter, and some
located on the west side Jewish shops remain, most Sunday Upmarket
of the cemetery. In summer- famously a 24-hour bagel International street
time (Apr–Oct), there are shop at No 159. On Sundays, a food is found among
guided walks of the cemetery large market is held here and artsy stalls.
on Wednesdays at 12:30pm. in the surrounding streets.  O3 ⌂ Old Truman
Towards the northern end Brewery, Brick Lane E1
of Brick Lane is the Old # Sun
Truman Brewery, home ]]]
to a mix of bars, shops
and stalls: separate
Ely’s Yard
markets at weekends
The food trucks and
sell food, vintage
stalls are here all week.
clothes and new fashion.
 O3 ⌂ Old Truman
Brewery, Dray Walk, E1
]]]
A monument to
William Blake and his
wife in Bunhill Fields
199
6\-=
Hoxton
 N2 ⌂ N1, E2
1 Old St
Hoxton, at the heart of hipster

London, is a loosely defined
district that revolves around its
EXPERIENCE Shoreditch and Spitalfields
two main streets: Old Street

and Kingsland Road. This once-
gritty landscape of Victorian
warehouses and postwar
estates is now home to trendy performer Dennis Severs The immaculately
places to eat, increasingly re-created a historical interior re-created interior of
pricey clothes stores and that takes you on a journey Dennis Severs’ House
a significant percentage of from the 17th to the 19th
the city’s newer street art. The centuries. It offers what he Hockney, it is truly unique.
converted warehouses house called “an adventure of the The house’s motto is “You
some of the city’s most ram- imagination… a visit to a either see it or you don’t.”
bunctious nightlife, with clubs time-mode rather than… Around the corner on Elder
and bars radiating out from merely a look at a house”. Street are two of London’s
the Shoreditch High Street The rooms are like a series earliest surviving terraces,
and Old Street junction, some of tableaux vivants, as if the where several Georgian
of them on neatly propor- occupants had simply left red-brick houses have been
tioned Hoxton Square, just for a moment. There is bread carefully restored.
behind Old Street. on the plates, wine in the
glasses, fruit in the bowl; the
candles flicker and horses’
hooves are heard clattering 8-=
7"' on the cobbles outside. Whitechapel Gallery
Dennis Severs’ House This highly theatrical
 O4 ⌂ 77–82 Whitechapel
experience is far removed
 O3 ⌂ 18 Folgate St E1 High St E1 1 Aldgate East,
from the usual museum re-
1 Liverpool St # Noon– Aldgate # 11am–6pm Tue–
creations, and the house is
2pm & 5–9pm Mon, 5–9pm Sun (to 9pm Thu) ¢ 1 Jan,
particularly atmospheric
Wed & Fri, noon–4pm Sun 24–26 Dec ∑ whitechapel
during the “Silent Night”
∑ dennissevershouse.co.uk gallery.org
evening sessions and at
At No 18 Folgate Street, built Christmas. Praised by many, A striking Art Nouveau façade
in 1724, the late designer and including artist David by C Harrison Townsend
Industrial chic in
the gentrified
Hoxton district
200
fronts this light, airy gallery,
founded in 1901 and later
expanded in the 1980s and
again in 2007–9. Situated
close to Brick Lane and the
area’s burgeoning art scene,
this independent gallery
was founded with the aim
of bringing great art to the
people of east London. Today
it enjoys an international
reputation for high-quality
shows of major contemporary
artists and for events, talks,
live performances, films and
art-themed evenings (especially
on the first Thursday of each
month, when many galleries
in the area open late).
In the 1950s and 1960s,
the likes of Jackson Pollock,
Anthony Caro, Mark Rothko,
Robert Rauschenberg and
John Hoyland all displayed
their work in the gallery. In Standing proudly over the streets of
1970 David Hockney’s first Spitalfields, the iconic Christ Church
exhibition was held here.
The gallery has a well- Completed in 1729, the
stocked arts bookshop 10 ' - building was mauled by
and a relaxed café which on Christ Church, alterations in the 1850s.
Thursday evenings becomes Spitalfields And by 1960 it had become
a popular wine bar. There is derelict, narrowly escaping
 O4 ⌂ Commercial St E1
an entry charge for some demolition. After a lengthy
1 Liverpool St # 10am–
special exhibitions. programme of restoration
4pm Mon–Fri (unless in
promoted by the Friends of
use as venue), 1–4pm Sun
Christ Church Spitalfields, the
∑ ccspits.org
church was returned to its
9' Christopher Wren’s pupil former glory by 2004. The
19 Princelet Street Nicholas Hawksmoor built superb organ was restored to
six London churches, and full working order in 2015, and
 O3 ⌂ 19 Princelet St E1
this is his finest. Christ Church the renovated crypt revealed
1 Liverpool St # For group
was commissioned by parlia- much of the original walls. The
tours only ∑ 19princelet
ment in the Fifty New Churches impression of size and strength
street.org.uk
Act of 1711, which was aimed created by its portico and spire
This 1719 Huguenot silk at combating the threat of is continued inside by such
merchant’s house, with a Nonconformism and intended features as the high ceiling
Victorian synagogue hidden to make a powerful statement and the gallery. Tours are for
within, epitomizes the area’s in an area fast becoming a groups, and should be booked
multicultural history as a Huguenot stronghold. at least two weeks ahead.
refuge for the dispossessed.
Now it exists as a museum of
immigration, with exhibitions HUGUENOTS IN LONDON
celebrating the people who Among the first really significant waves of immigration
have arrived and settled in into east London was the influx of tens of thousands
London’s East End. It is hoped of Huguenots from France in the late 17th century.
that, with funding, this historic These were Protestant refugees, fleeing persecution
gem can be further developed in their home country, and their numbers were highest
into a permanent centre. For in Spitalfields. Many were weavers by trade and they
now, it is only open for one- came to dominate the silk and textile industry that
off group visits (booked in already existed in this part of the city. Spitalfields
advance via the website), but became known as “Weaver Town”.
there are occasional open
days and special events.
201
EXPERIENCE Shoreditch and Spitalfields
Beautiful blooms at
the Columbia Road
flower market
11 Hamlet, Macbeth and Romeo,

St Leonard’s Church and his brother Cuthbert, e-=
founder of the Globe Theatre. Rich Mix
 O2 ⌂ 119 Shoreditch
Erected in 1736–40, the
High St E1 1 Old St  O3 ⌂ 35–47 Bethnal
current Palladian-style church
3 Shoreditch High St Green Rd E1 1 Shoreditch
is the oldest building in
# Jul–Oct: noon–5pm High St # 9am–late Mon–
Shoreditch. Its fine acoustics
Fri–Sun; services on Fri, 10am–late Sat & Sun
make it still popular today as a
Sun year-round ∑ shore ∑ richmix.org.uk
performance space for actors
ditchchurch.org.uk
and musicians. Sunday service This hip independent cultural
Standing as it does on the is at 10:30am. centre spread over five floors
spot where several major offers a diverse programme
Roman roads converged, this of live music, theatre, dance,
has been a site of worship for
millennia. The Norman-era 12 \ - =
St Leonard’s was the original Columbia Road Market
“Actors’ Church” (p129) and
 O2 ⌂ Columbia Rd
many famous names of Tudor
E2 3 Hoxton # 8am–3pm
theatre are buried in the
Sun ∑ columbiaroad.info
crypt, including Richard
Burbage, who played the first A visit to this flower and plant
market is one of the most
delightful things to do on a
Sunday morning in London,
whether you want to take
SHOP
advantage of the exotic
species on offer or not –
though it’s hard to resist, as
Boxpark prices are competitive and the
Independent clothing range impressive. Set in a
brands, accessories, well-preserved street of small
cosmetics, homewares Victorian shops, it is a lively,
and kooky gifts are sweet-smelling and colourful
traded from repurposed affair. Apart from the stalls,
shipping containers in there are several shops
this fun, pop-up-style selling, among other things,
retail park. home-made bread, vintage
 O3 ⌂ 2–10 Bethnal apparel, antiques and inter-
Green Rd E1 esting objects, many flower
∑ boxpark.co.uk related. There are also cafés,
a tapas bar and pubs to refuel
at along the street. Visit early
to miss the crowds.
202
spoken word, comedy and bequeathed by Sir Robert
film. There’s an emphasis on Geffrye, a 17th-century Lord t-=
multiculturalism, feminism Mayor of London. Inside, you V&A Museum
and breaking down stereo- take a trip through historical of Childhood
types reflected in the eclectic room settings, each providing
 O2 ⌂ Cambridge Heath
mix of film festivals for which an insight into the domestic
Rd E2 1 Bethnal Green
its three-screen cinema has interiors of the urban middle
# 10am–5:45pm daily
become a major venue. The classes from 1630 to the 1990s,
∑ vam.ac.uk/moc
building is a converted leather reflecting changes in society,
factory with an unusual mish- behaviour, style and taste. With an amazing array of toys,
mash of performance and Each room contains superb games, puzzles, lavish dolls’
exhibition spaces giving off an examples of British furniture houses, model train sets,
industrial vibe. There are three of the period and showcases furniture and costumes,
bars within its straight-edged personal stories. Running the dating from the 16th century
interior, and an Indian street- length of the main almhouse, up to the present day, this
food café faces the street. the Home Gallery explores museum has the largest
everyday experiences of collection of childhood-
home-making over the past related objects in the UK.
400 years in a wider context. In There are plenty of
r'-= another restored almshouse, activities to keep children
Museum of the Home regular tours tell the story of amused, including story-
how the poor and elderly lived telling, arts and crafts
 O1 ⌂ 136 Kingsland Rd E2
in previous times. Outside, workshops, and fun trails.
1 Hoxton # Times vary,
period garden “rooms” show
check website ∑ museum
designs and planting schemes
ofthehome.org.uk
popular in urban gardens,
Formerly known as the Geffrye including a herb garden and a
Museum, this delightful 21st-century green roof.
collection reopened in 2020 The museum runs tempo-
following a major redevelop- rary exhibitions and there are
ment. The museum is housed often events in the green
in a set of restored almshouses space in front of the buildings,
that were built in 1715 on land such as an outdoor cinema.
The V&A Museum of Childhood,

home to toys and games through
the ages, including (inset) puppets
203
Charcuterie and cheese at The French Comté in Borough Market
SOUTHWARK
AND BANKSIDE
Southwark and its stretch of riverbank, known as
Bankside, once offered an escape from the City,
a place to indulge in the many forms of entertain
ment that were banned across the river. Among
the illicit pleasures that thrived here from the late
16th century were brothels, theatres, and bear
and cock pits. Even today, the streets leading off
Borough High Street are lined with a remarkable
number of pubs, and the George survives as the
only galleried inn in London. Shakespeare’s
company was famously based at the Globe Theatre,
which has been reconstructed close to its original
site. Docks, wharves and warehouses were built
along Bankside in the 18th and 19th centuries as
the area industrialized, but a century later, bomb
damage during World War II, and the decline in
river trade that followed, ushered in a period of
decline. Southwark’s riverside renaissance as one
of the capital’s top visitor destinations began in
the 1990s and since the turn of the millennium,
Tate Modern, the Millennium Bridge and the
Shard have all opened, accompanied by a
sweeping regeneration of the whole area.
205
CAN C
NON ANNON
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EET TREET
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STREET STREET Mansion Mansion
House House C
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THAM THAM
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STR STR
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Pier Pier
THE CITY
THE CITY
p172 p172
Blackfriars Blackfriars MillenniumMillennium

Bridge Bridge Bridge Bridge
Bankside Bankside Southwark Southwark
Pier Pier Bridge Bridge
BanksideBankside Cannon St Cannon St
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Must Sees 0 Bermondsey Street
1 Tate Modern q City Hall
2 Shakespeare’s Globe w HMS Belfast
Experience More Eat

3 Southwark Cathedral 1 Roast
4 The Old Operating Theatre 2 Flat Iron Square
Museum 3 The Garrison
5 Bankside Gallery
Drink
6 Borough Market
4 The George
7 The Rose Playhouse
5 The Anchor
8 Clink Prison Museum
9 The Shard
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SE E TH I N G
MonumentMonument GR GR
LANE
LANE
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Monument
Monument ER ER TRINITY TRINITY
Hill Hill
ST ST SQUARE SQUARE
S TY W A R D S T
BYWARD B HILL HILL
TOWER TOWER
Fishmongers'
Fishmongers'
Hall Hall
Old Old
LOW LOW
Billingsgate
Billingsgate ER
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of London
of London
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Southwark
Southwark
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Cathedral TOO
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1'\-=
TATE MODERN
 L6 ⌂ Bankside SE1 1 Blackfriars, Southwark 3 Blackfriars
# 10am–6pm Sun–Thu, 10am–10pm Fri & Sat ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ tate.org.uk
Looming over the southern bank of the Thames, Tate Modern, housed in
EXPERIENCE Southwark and Bankside
the converted Bankside power station, holds one of the world’s premier
collections of contemporary art. With an ever-changing roster of
exhibitions, it is Britain’s most popular visitor attraction.
Opened to coincide with the new millennium,
this Goliath of a gallery boasts a vast collection INTERACTIVE ART
of modern artworks, featuring paintings and Tate Modern has created a series of
sculptures by some of the most significant interactive activities and experiences
artists of the 20th and 21st centuries, Pablo under its Bloomberg Connects umbrella.
Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Mark Rothko and These products, including the Timeline
Francis Bacon among them. Lesser-known of Modern Art, the TateShots digital
artists and less mainstream art forms also gallery and the digital Drawing Bar, in
abound, with pieces composed of bottle which you can immerse yourself in the
tops or, most famously, a porcelain urinal, studios and cities of artists, enable mem-
in the guise of Marcel Duchamp’s notorious bers of the public to actively connect
Fountain. The focal point of the building is with art, artists and other visitors. The
the awesome Turbine Hall, which is often award-winning handheld multimedia
filled by a specially commissioned work. guides present audio commentary
Other exhibition spaces, including the alongside images, film clips and games.
galleries of the towering Blavatnik Building,
feature collections on a single theme or
hugely popular temporary shows.
One Two Three Swing!

by SUPERFLEX, an
installation in the Turbine Hall
4.2 million
The number of bricks
used to build the
original Bankside
power station.
Must See
1 2
1 The striking 99-m- (325-ft-) high chimney
of Tate Modern reveals the building’s former
role as a power station.
2 The Tate Modern has an excellent and
extensive permanent collection displayed
across the site, spanning photographs,
paintings, sculptures and video art.
3 The cool interior of the Blavatnik Building
extension has added a large number of galleries
3 and performance spaces to the Tate.
GREAT VIEW
Top of the Tower
On Level 10, the top
floor of the fantastic
Blavatnik Building
extension, the 360-
degree viewing terrace
gives spectacular views
of London. You can also
enjoy more or less the
same views, taking in
St Paul’s Cathedral, the
rest of the City and
beyond, from the
restaurant on Level 9.
2"'\-=
SHAKESPEARE’S
GLOBE
 L5 ⌂ 21 New Globe Walk SE1 1 Blackfriars, London Bridge, Mansion House # Tours
every 30 min 9:30am–12:30pm; book online ¢ 24 & 25 Dec ∑ shakespearesglobe.com
To see a Shakespeare play at the reconstructed Globe is a magical experience.

Time-travel to the 1600s and watch Romeo woo Juliet, Beatrice and Benedick
squabble, and Hamlet seek revenge.
Built along the south bank of the Thames, acting. A second theatre, the Sam Wanamaker
Shakespeare’s Globe is a fine reconstruction Playhouse, is a splendidly atmospheric,
of the Elizabethan theatre where many of candlelit reproduction of a Jacobean indoor
the famous playwright’s works were first theatre, with performances year-round. Lively
performed. The circular wooden structure tours take you into the theatre itself, telling
is open in the middle, leaving some of the the story of the original 1599 theatre, its
audience exposed to the elements. Those 1614 replacement and Wanamaker’s bold
holding seated tickets enjoy a roof over their reconstruction in the 1990s. Tours of the Sam
heads. Performances (staged from mid-April Wanamaker Playhouse are also sporadically
until mid-October) are thrilling, with first-rate run; check the website for details.
The theatre, built with

green oak beams and lime
plaster to replicate the
1599 original
INSIDER TIP
Wrap Up
Got tickets? Dress warmly: plays tend
to run for several hours and even during
the summer months London evenings
can be very cool.
210
Must See
1 A performance at the Globe is

always a lively experience.
2 The ornate and intimate Sam
Wanamaker Playhouse is indoors.
3 The roof of the Globe is made of
water reed thatch. There has been a
law banning the use of thatch in the
city since the Great Fire of London in
1666, so the theatre had to line the roof
with fire-retardant material in order
1 to gain special permission to use it.
Did You Know?

The original Globe Theatre
burned down in 1613,
when stage cannon fire
ignited the roof during
a performance.
2 3
EXPERIENCE MORE
window depicting characters
3'-= from his plays. The churchyard
Southwark Cathedral has been landscaped to
create a herb garden, with the
 M6 ⌂ Montague Close
attractive Millennium Courtyard
SE1 1 London Bridge

leading to the riverside.
# 8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat,
8:30am–5pm Sun
∑ cathedral.southwark.
anglican.org 4"'=
This church did not become The Old Operating
a cathedral until 1905 – yet Theatre Museum
some parts of it date back to
 M6 ⌂ 9a St Thomas St
the 12th century, when the
SE1 1 London Bridge
building was attached to
# 2–5pm Mon, 10:30am–
a priory, and many of its Surgical items forming
5pm Tue–Fri & public hols,
medieval features remain. a memento mori at The
noon–4pm Sat & Sun
The memorials are quite Old Operating Theatre
∑ oldoperatingtheatre.com
fascinating and include a late-
13th-century wooden effigy St Thomas’ Hospital, one of
of a knight. John Harvard, the the oldest in Britain, stood been constructed in a garret
first benefactor of Harvard here from its foundation in over the hospital church. The
University, was baptized here the 12th century until it was UK’s oldest operating theatre,
in 1607 and there is a chapel moved west in 1862. At this dating from 1822, it remained
named after him. time, nearly all of its buildings forgotten until the 1950s. It
In the south aisle there’s a were demolished in order to has now been fitted out just
memorial to Shakespeare – make way for the railways. The as it would have been in the
who worshipped here – and women’s operating theatre early 19th century, before the
above it is a stained-glass survived only because it had discovery of either antiseptics
or anaesthetics. Another
section of the garret, which
was once used by the hospital
apothecary to store herbs, has
a collection of traditional herbs
and remedies, plus displays of
antiquated medicines.
5=
Bankside Gallery
 L5 ⌂ 48 Hopton St SE1
1 Blackfriars, Southwark
# 11am–6pm daily during
exhibitions ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26
Dec ∑ banksidegallery.com
This modern riverside gallery

is the headquarters of two
historic British societies: the
Royal Watercolour Society and
the Royal Society of Painter-
Printmakers. The members of
The tower and east end of

Southwark Cathedral, built in
golden sandstone and flint
212
Southwark’s busy
Borough Market and
surrounding area
these societies are elected by Fridays and Saturdays), known

their peers in a tradition that for gourmet goods, as well as
dates back over 200 years. The quality fruit and vegetables,
exhibitions held here feature
the work of both societies
and many of the pieces on
and organic meat, fish and
dairy produce. A number of
hot-food stalls, selling a
DRINK
display are for sale. There is tempting array of dishes from The George
also a superb specialist art around the world, also share The only remaining
shop that sells both books the space. Food demon- galleried coaching inn
and materials. strations take place in the in London. Enjoy a pint
There is an unparalleled glass atrium on Borough High of ale in the courtyard
view of St Paul’s Cathedral Street on Thursdays and seating area.
from the nearby pub, the Fridays. The specialist food  M6 ⌂ 75–77 Borough
Founders’ Arms – built on shops and pubs on the streets High St SE1 ∑ greene
the site of the foundry where around the market are also king-pubs.co.uk
the cathedral’s bells were cast. well worth checking out.
The Anchor
Ales have been quaffed
here for centuries.
6\-= 7 Originally dating
Borough Market The Rose Playhouse from 1615, the present
18th-century premises
 M6 ⌂ 8 Southwark St SE1  M6 ⌂ 56 Park St SE1
has a fine canopied
1 London Bridge # 10am– 1 London Bridge # Noon–
terrace from which to
5pm Mon–Thu, 10am–6pm 4pm Sat ∑ rosetheatre.
admire the river views.
Fri, 8am–5pm Sat (Dec: org.uk
also 10am–4pm Sun)  M6 ⌂ 34 Park St SE1
In 1989 the remains of the ∑ greeneking-pubs.co.uk
¢ Some stalls Mon & Tue
Rose theatre, dating from
∑ boroughmarket.org.uk
Elizabethan times, were
Borough Market has existed discovered during excavations
in some form or another for ahead of building work for a
over a thousand years. It new office block. The Rose, a modern building overhead,
moved to its current position built in 1587, was the first of the archaeological remains
in 1756 and became one of the Bankside theatres, and it are submerged in water, with
Britain’s biggest fruit and staged plays by Shakespeare lights indicating the shape of
vegetable markets after the and Christopher Marlowe. the theatre. A small volunteer-
arrival of the railways in the The site of the original Globe run exhibition tells the story
19th century. Today, it’s an theatre was just over the road of the excavation. The atmos-
extremely popular fine-food on Park Street (a plaque marks pheric space is also sometimes
market (beware: the crowds the spot). Preserved in a used as a small theatre –
can be huge, especially on specially designed space, with check the website for details.
213
Scary skeletons
spooking visitors at the
Clink Prison Museum
8"= 9"\-
Clink Prison The Shard
EAT Museum
 M6 ⌂ 1 Clink St SE1
 N6 ⌂ London Bridge St
1 London Bridge # The
Roast 1 London Bridge # Jul–Sep: View from the Shard:
Traditional British food 10am–7:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–10pm daily (last
at its best in a smart 10am–9pm Sat & Sun; Oct– adm: 9pm; sometimes
dining room overlooking Jun: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, closes earlier for events)
Borough Market. 10am–7:30pm Sat & Sun ¢ 25 Dec ∑ theviewfrom
∑ clink.co.uk theshard.com
 M6 ⌂ The Floral Hall,
Stoney St SE1 ∑ roast- The prison that was once Designed by Renzo Piano, the
restaurant.com located here was founded Shard is the tallest building
]]] in the 12th century. It was in Western Europe. At 310 m
owned by successive Bishops (1,016 ft) high with a crystalline
of Winchester, who lived in façade, the 95storey tower
Flat Iron Square the adjoining palace, of which houses offices, restaurants –
A sociable hub for street little remains now aside from several with incredible views –
food and quality the lovely rose window on a fivestar hotel, exclusive
independent fast-food Clink Street. During the 15th apartments and the country’s
restaurants in the century, the prison became highest observation gallery,
railway arches near known as the “Clink”, and this the View from the Shard.
Borough Market. has become a British slang
 M6 ⌂ 68 Union St SE1 term for any prison or jail cell.
∑ flatironsquare.co.uk It closed down in 1780.
]]] The museum alongside the
remains of the palace illustrates
the history of the prison. Tales
The Garrison are told of the inmates incarce
The seasonal British
rated here, including prosti
menu served here is
tutes, debtors, and religious
a mixture of the
dissenters who sailed on the
creatively modern and
Mayflower. Visitors can handle
the satisfyingly
instruments of torture that
traditional.
leave little to the imagination –
 N7 ⌂ 99–101 not for the fainthearted.
Bermondsey St SE1
∑ thegarrison.co.uk
]]]
The Shard, rising up
behind the visor-
shaped City Hall
214
Take a high-speed lift from White Cube Bermondsey is a the Scoop hosts free events
the entrance on Joiner Street major space for international in summer, including plays,
to the top of the building contemporary art. music and screenings.
for spectacular, unobstructed
views of the capital. There are Fashion and Textile
two viewing floors, the higher Museum
12 " \ - =
of which is right among the " = # 11am–6pm Tue–Sat
“shards” with the breeze (to 8pm Thu), 11am–5pm Sun HMS Belfast
blowing overhead. ∑ ftmlondon.org
 N6 ⌂ The Queen’s Walk
SE1 1 London Bridge,
Tower Hill # 10am–6pm
10 \ - = 11 - daily (last adm: 5pm)
¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ iwm.org.
Bermondsey Street City Hall
uk/visits/hms-belfast
 N7 ⌂ SE1 1 London  O6 ⌂ The Queen’s Walk
Launched in 1938 to serve
Bridge, Borough SE1 1 London Bridge
in World War II, HMS Belfast
# 8:30am–6pm Mon–Thu,
Bermondsey’s winding was instrumental in the
8:30am–5:30pm Fri
streets still hold traces of its destruction of the German
∑ london.gov.uk/about-us
past in the form of medieval, battle cruiser Scharnhorst
18th-century and Victorian The Norman Foster-designed in the Battle of North Cape,
buildings. Today, Bermondsey domed glass building just by and also played a role in
Street is home to galleries, Tower Bridge is the head- the Normandy landings.
coffee shops and a few quarters for London’s mayor After the war, the battle
great restaurants. The and the Greater London cruiser was sent to work for
area is also famous for its Authority. Anyone can visit UN naval forces during the
antiques market, held in the building and head up the Korean War, and remained in
Bermondsey Square at the walkway to the second floor service with the Royal Navy
bottom end of the street. to look in on the assembly until 1965. The only surviving
Each Friday morning from chamber, or sit in on Mayor’s World War II cruiser, it has
6am, seriously committed Question Time, when assembly been used as a floating naval
antiques dealers trade their members interrogate the museum since 1971.
latest acquisitions, and the mayor on London issues; this Visitors can climb down
best bargains tend to go takes place ten times a ladders to the engine room
before most people are year on Thursday 4.5 m (15 ft) below sea level,
even awake. mornings (check and experience what it was
The Fashion and Textile website for dates). like in the gun turrets during
Museum at No 83 puts on On the lower ground a battle. Interactive exhibits
a programme of exhibitions floor are temporary explore the ship’s 80-year
covering all aspects of fashion exhibitions and history with stories from some
and design, and also runs a café. Outside, of its veterans. Due to reno-
an education programme. the stone amphi- vation work it is not expected
Further along the street, theatre known as to open until late 2021.
A SHORT WALK
SOUTHWARK
Distance 2 km (1.5 miles) Time 25 minutes
Nearest Tube Blackfriars
Out of the jurisdiction of the City authorities, were built to meet the demand. Today, a
Southwark was the place for illicit pleasures riverside walk here provides spectacular views
from medieval times until the 18th century. of St Paul’s and the Shard, and takes in the Tate
The 18th and 19th centuries brought new Modern, a regenerated Borough Market and
business, and docks, warehouses and factories the re-creation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.
BRIDGE
BLACKFRIARS
Millennium Southwark Bridge was

Bridge opened in 1912 to replace
a bridge of 1819.
START T
HO
E
TRE
LL
AN
N S
D
D
E R K
OA
R
ST
RSO
EE
WA
RE
R
ST
ET
TH
EME
DG
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R
SOU
PA
BRI
SUMNER STREET
Tate Modern, the former The brilliant re-creation

Bankside Power Station, is a of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre
spectacular space to show has open-air performances in the
off a huge collection of summer months and offers tours all
contemporary art (p208). year round (p210).
0 metres 100 N
0 yards 100
One Two Three

Swing! by
SUPERFLEX at
the Tate Modern
216
SOUTHWARK
AND BANKSIDE
Locator Map
The historic Anchor pub, a popular

drinking establishment since the
time of Shakespeare
Clink Prison Museum, on the
site of the notorious old prison,
looks back at Southwark’s
colourful past (p214).
The riverside Anchor
pub has been a firm
favourite for centuries 14th-century London Bridge, in its
(p213). rose window various forms, was the
only river crossing in
London from Roman
The Golden Hinde II is times until 1750. The
a replica of Sir Francis present bridge,
Drake’s galleon built in completed in 1972,
the 1970s; it sailed the replaced the one of 1831.
globe for several decades
before docking here.
K END
CL
IN
IDG
K S
BAN
PA T RE
RK ET
BR
ST
MO
ON
REET
N
C L TA G Despite major alterations,
C AT H E D R A L
OS UE
ND
E Southwark Cathedral
T
STREET
STREE
LO
still contains medieval

elements (p212).
There has been a

market on or near the
site of Borough
EY
Market since around

ON
1014 (p213).
ST
T ST
EE TH
S TR O
M
S O U T H WA H AS
RK STREET
IG ST
H RE
H ET
G
U
O
R
O
B FINISH
The Hop Exchange
was where hops
from Kent for brewing
were traded; its The War Memorial, The George is
pediment features commemorating soldiers London’s only
carved scenes of who fell in World War I, surviving traditional
the hop harvest. was erected in 1924 on galleried inn (p213).
Borough High Street.
217
The South Bank’s Royal Festival Hall and London Eye
SOUTH BANK
It was not until the 18th century that the stretch
of marshy land over the river from Westminster,
opposite what would later become the Victoria
Embankment, was drained and developed, and
referred to as the South Bank. Pleasure gardens
gave way to industrialization, and by the late 1830s
the riverfront was dominated by the Lion Brewery,
which stood here until it was demolished in 1949,
by which time it had already been abandoned.
After World War II the land lay bomb-damaged and
derelict until London County Council decided to
develop it for the 1951 Festival of Britain.
Conceived as a much-needed tonic for a war-worn
population, a large exhibition site full of cultural
and leisure venues and installations was created
for the festival. The only permanent construction
was the Royal Festival Hall, and the Southbank
Centre, which now dominates the site, grew up
around that building. It was in the spirit of the
Festival of Britain that the new millennium was
marked on the South Bank with the raising of the
London Eye, a gigantic ferris wheel.
219
SO ST
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p122 p122
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ROAD

Did You Know?
The foundation stone
of the Royal Festival
EXPERIENCE South Bank
Hall was laid in 1949

by Prime Minister
Clement Attlee.
1'\-=
SOUTHBANK
CENTRE
 J6 ⌂ Belvedere Rd, South Bank SE1 1 Waterloo, Embankment
3 Waterloo, Waterloo East, Charing Cross 4 Festival Pier, London
Eye Pier ∑ southbankcentre.co.uk
With a major art gallery and three world-class auditoriums

for music, dance and other events lined up along the river, the
Southbank Centre is one of London’s pre-eminent cultural and
performance venues.
London’s high-profile, much-respected and and rooftops of this concrete complex. There
visited multi-dimensional arts centre takes are always innumerable visitors making their
centre stage among the other great arts way to performances, primarily of classical
institutions on the South Bank: the National music but also of opera, folk, world music
Theatre and the British Film Institute. The and all kinds of contemporary leftfield genres.
Southbank Centre itself comprises four main Comedy, talks and dance all feature too,
venues: the Royal Festival Hall, the Hayward while there is a multitude of regular festivals,
Gallery, the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the seasons and weekends staged here,
Purcell Room. The centre’s always buzzing, including the London Jazz Festival, Women
with bustling bars and restaurants slotted into of the World (WOW) Festival, the London
and between the terraces, platforms, walkways Literature Festival and Meltdown.
222
Must See
Crowds enjoying the

sun outside the Queen
Elizabeth Hall
1951 FESTIVAL OF BRITAIN

The 1951 Festival of Britain was timed
to mark the centenary of the Great
Exhibition but also to provide some
optimism and cultural celebration in
the aftermath of war. The wharves and
factories that once stood on this site
suffered considerable bomb damage
during World War II, so the area was
cleared for the event and a set of weird
and wonderful temporary structures
were erected in their place, forming a
kind of cultural theme park. The one
permanent structure was the Royal
Strolling along the riverfront past Festival Hall.
the Southbank Centre, towards the
monumental London Eye
223
The South Bank
Hugging the curve of the River Thames, the Southbank Centre
EAT
is a sprawling complex with the Royal Festival Hall at its heart.
Just a little further along the bank are the enormous London
Eye and County Hall, home to other top attractions – the
London Dungeon and the London Aquarium. There is plenty Southbank Centre
to entertain here, making it perfect for a gentle afternoon. Food Market
This excellent little food
market is located to the
Plays at the National Waterloo Bridge was rear of the Royal

Theatre (p229) designed by Sir Giles Festival Hall. A wide
range from classics Gilbert Scott. range of street eats is
to modern works. available, from pizzas
and curries to Korean
Southbank BBQ and Ethiopian
Centre Food vegan food, as well as
Market treats to take home, like
wine, cheese and jam.
# Noon–8pm Fri, 11am–
8pm Sat, noon–6pm
Sun & public hols
]]]
Now surrounded by the

Southbank Place
development, the Shell
Building is the oil
company’s head office.
Skyscrapers
loom over the
South Bank
near the
Hungerford London Eye
Bridge’s two
footbridges are
London’s busiest.
Southbank Centre
First laid out in 1977 for the

Queen’s Silver Jubilee, Jubilee
Gardens were remodelled
for her Diamond Jubilee.
Did You Know?

The organ in the Royal
Festival Hall has over County Hall houses
7,800 pipes. The London Eye the Sea Life London
(p228) offers Aquarium (p229)
passengers a unique and the London
view of London. Dungeon (p230).
224
Must See
1 2
1 The Southbank Centre Food Market
takes place on Fridays, Saturdays and
Sundays, in the square behind the
Royal Festival Hall.
2 The concrete exterior of the
Hayward Gallery is well suited to
the modern works that it displays
within. The building’s stark design is
a landmark of Brutalist architecture.
3 BFI Southbank, previously the
National Film Theatre, was originally
established to show historic films;
today it offers an eclectic programme
3 of films from around the world.
1960s Brutalist architecture staged in this relatively

1\-= with its slabby grey concrete intimate, comfortable concert
Royal Festival Hall exterior and distinctive venue. The Purcell Room, in
pyramidal glass roof panels, the same building, is smaller
 J6 # 10am–11pm daily
is one of London’s foremost still and also hosts readings,
With its 2,500-seat auditorium, venues for large, often while its music events tend to
this modernist building is the provocative, contemporary be small ensembles, piano
Southbank Centre’s largest art exhibitions. The gallery recitals, chamber music and the
concert hall and one of the exhibits paintings, drawings, like. The foyer is also regularly
city’s best classical music photography, sculpture, used as a performance venue,
venues. The airy halls outside installation art and more, by hosting free events as well as
the auditorium house the interesting, innovative and occasional club nights.
free-access Clore Ballroom, internationally renowned
where concerts are frequently artists from around the world.
staged in sight of the casual Paul Klee, Andreas Gursky,
bar. The foyer is also used for Bridget Riley and Anthony 4\-=
exhibitions and contains a Caro are among the artists BFI Southbank
café, while the Skylon who have had exhibitions here.
 J6 ∑ bfi.org.uk
restaurant sits on the third
floor. In summer, pop-up BFI Southbank, previously
venues and bars are installed the National Film Theatre,
and DJ-led parties take place 3- was established in 1953,
on the riverside terrace. Queen Elizabeth Hall and though adjacent to the
and Purcell Room Southbank Centre it’s not
actually part of it. It has four
 J6 # 10am–11pm daily
cinema screens and offers a
2"-= Inaugurated in 1967, the huge and diverse selection
Hayward Gallery Queen Elizabeth Hall reopened of films, both British and
in 2018 after extensive reno- international. It also holds
 J6 # 11am–7pm Wed–Mon
vations. Smaller orchestral regular screenings of rare and
(to 9pm Thu)
performances, genre-bending restored films and television
Reopened in 2018 after a music and dance, stand-up programmes and has a free
lengthy refurbishment, the comedy, spoken word poetry Mediatheque where the BFI’s
Hayward Gallery, an icon of and literary events are all archives can be browsed.
225
Did You Know?
During the “Blitz” in
World War II, bombs
fell on London
for 76 consecutive
nights.
Military aircraft on display

in the main atrium at the
Imperial War Museum
226
Must See
2'\-=
IMPERIAL
WAR MUSEUM
 K8 ⌂ Lambeth Rd SE1 1 Waterloo, Lambeth North, Elephant & Castle
3 Waterloo, Elephant & Castle # 10am–6pm daily (last adm to the
Holocaust Gallery: 5:30pm) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ iwm.org.uk
With great creativity and sensitivity, the immersive exhibitions at

the terrific Imperial War Museum provide a fascinating insight into
the history of war and themes of conflict.
Inevitably the two World Wars feature heavily at the Imperial
War Museum, but they are covered in innovative ways. In the INSIDER TIP
First World War Galleries a re-created trench vividly evokes Get a Guide
the experience of fighting at the front. The museum’s main There is a guide book
galleries covering World War II, including the particularly to the museum aimed
poignant exhibition dedicated to the Holocaust, are under- specifically at children
going major expansion programmes, reappraising these aged 7 and above. There
pivotal events in light of the latest research and archive are also daily 40-minute
releases, and expected to be completed in 2021. Other highly tours (£10, children £5;
original permanent displays include Curiosities of War, which check website for times)
is full of unexpected items such as a sofa made by troops in that introduce the
Afghanistan out of HESCO bastion fencing. More conventionally, collections. Tickets can
there are tanks, artillery and aircraft, including a Mark 1 Spitfire be bought in person.
and a Harrier jet, on show in the main atrium.
1 2
1 The museum is housed in

what used to be the Bethlem
Royal Hospital for the Insane
(commonly known as “Bedlam”),
built in 1811.
2 Military hardware on display
includes a T-34 World War II
Soviet tank captured in
1973 by Israeli forces.
3 Hanging in the atrium is the
famous Battle of Britain fighter
plane, the Spitfire, from 1940.
3
227
80 spokes 3"
THE
made from The wheel
6 km (3.7 miles) rim was
of tensioned floated down
cable support the Thames
LONDON
the wheel. in sections.
EYE
 J6 ⌂ Jubilee Gardens SE1 1 Waterloo,

The glass Westminster # From 10am daily; closing
capsules are times between 6pm and 9:30pm, check
mounted on website for details ¢ Two weeks in Jan
the outside of for maintenance ∑ londoneye.com
the rim.
Stunning views of London’s historic
skyline can be had from the glass
capsules of the city’s famous ferris
The Eye turns slowly
enough that the wheel, the London Eye. Situated
capsules are boarded Illustration of right beside the River Thames, it gives
while they are moving. the London Eye, visitors a 360-degree view of the city.
on the South Bank
The London Eye is a 135-m- (443-ft-) high
observation wheel. Opened in 2000 as part
BOOKING TICKETS of London’s millennium celebrations, it
Queues for the London Eye can be long, immediately became one of the city’s most
so make sure to pre-book your tickets recognizable landmarks, notable not only for
online to secure a timed slot and to make its size, but for its circularity amid the block-
the most of online offers. For those who shaped buildings flanking it. Thirty-two
plan to visit more sites around the city, capsules, each holding up to 25 people, take
multi-attraction tickets, combining a trip a gentle 30-minute round trip. On a clear day,
on the Eye with various other London the Eye affords a 40-km (25-mile) view over
attractions, carry heavy discounts. the capital in all directions and out to the
countryside beyond.
228
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
occasionally the world, via the
4'\-= National Theatre Live initiative,
National Theatre as well as taken on tours.
 K6 ⌂ South Bank SE1
1 Waterloo # 9:30am–
11pm Mon–Sat (Sherling 5"'-=
Walkway closes 7:30pm)
Sea Life London
¢ 24 & 25 Dec ∑ national
A capsule mid-tour Aquarium
theatre.org.uk
with unimpeded
 J7 ⌂ County Hall,
views of the city Even if you don’t want to
Westminster Bridge Rd SE1
see a play, this complex is
1 Waterloo # 10am–6pm
worth a visit, especially for
Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat,
a backstage tour. These are
Sun & summer hols (last adm:
offered Monday to Saturday,
6pm) ∑ visitsealife.com/
and should be booked in
london
advance. You can also get a
glimpse of the backstage area Once the home of London’s
from the Sherling High-Level elected government, County
Walkway (entrance near the Hall now houses the Sea
Dorfman Theatre), which runs Life London Aquarium and
above the prop-building areas. London Dungeon (p230),
Sir Denys Lasdun’s building alongside two hotels and
opened in 1976 after 200 other themed attractions.
years of debate: should there The aquarium is home to
be a national theatre and, myriad aquatic species, such
if so, where? The theatre as stingrays, turtles, jellyfish,
company was formed in starfish and penguins. There’s
1963, under Laurence (later a 25-m (82-ft) glass tunnel
Lord) Olivier. The largest of walkway through a tropical
Taking a selfie the three theatres is named ocean environment, and a
against the after him; the others are the large tank housing numerous
London skyline Dorfman and the Lyttleton. shark species, which you can
Prestigious productions are view from several levels. Book
streamed live to theatres and ahead for discounts and to
cinemas all over the UK, and skip large queues.
The London Eye The controversial

peering over the Brutalist architecture of
River Thames the National Theatre
229
long and stormy debate over
7"-= the future of what was once
London Dungeon an industrial riverside area.
Residents of Waterloo
 J7 ⌂ County Hall,
strongly opposed various
Westminster Bridge
schemes for office develop
Rd SE1 1 Waterloo
ments before a community
# 10am–5pm Sun–Fri
association was able to
(from 11am Thu), 10am–
acquire the site in 1984 and
6pm Sat; extended hours

build cooperative housing.
in school holidays ¢ 25 Dec
Adjoining the market area
∑ thedungeons.com
is a small public garden with
This scary attraction is a great grass to sit on and a river pier
hit with older children. Illust with fine views of the City. The
rating the most bloodthirsty Oxo Tower to the east was
events in British history with adapted from an older power
live actors and special effects, station in 1928 to surrepti
the dungeon plays strictly for tiously advertise a wellknown
terror, and screams abound meat extract by means of its
A bust of Florence during the 90minute tour. window shapes. It now houses
Nightingale in nursing Gory scenes recount tales of galleries and design shops on
cape and bonnet such characters as Guy Fawkes the lower floors and a bar,
and Jack the Ripper. Don’t restaurant and brasserie on
miss the Tyrant Boat Ride the top floor (p51).
along a black River Thames
6"'= to find out what happened
Florence Nightingale to Tudor queen Anne Boleyn GREAT VIEW
Museum and her coconspirators. Waterloo Bridge
Making any Londoner’s
 J7 ⌂ 2 Lambeth Palace
list of favourite views is
Rd SE1 1 Waterloo,
this one from a busy
Westminster # 10am–5pm 8\-= bridge spanning the
daily ¢ 1 Jan, 21–27 & 31 Dec
Gabriel’s Wharf Thames. Whether you
∑ florence-nightingale.
look up or down river,
co.uk  K6 ⌂ 56 Upper Ground
the scene in front of you
SE1 1 Waterloo
This determined woman cap is a reminder of the
tured the nation’s imagination This pleasant enclave of beauty of Britain’s
as the “Lady of the Lamp” who boutiques, craft shops and capital city.
nursed the wounded soldiers cafés was the product of a
of the Crimean War (1853–6).
She founded the country’s
first school of nursing at old St
Thomas’ Hospital in 1860, and
revolutionized modern nurs
ing. She was also an advocate
for women in the workplace.
Sited near the entrance
to St Thomas’ Hospital, this
museum gives an account of
Nightingale’s career through
displays of original documents
and personal memorabilia.
They illustrate her life and the
developments she pioneered
in health care, until her death
in 1910 at the age of 90. Tours
are daily at 3:30pm, plus at
11:30am on weekends.
Riverside shopping
and refreshment at
Gabriel’s Wharf
230
The centuries-old
Lambeth Palace 0"-= q'-
and its grounds Garden Museum The Old Vic
 J8 ⌂ 5 Lambeth  K7 ⌂ Waterloo Rd
9"' Palace Rd SE1 SE1 1 Waterloo # For
1 Waterloo, Lambeth performances and tours
Lambeth Palace
North, Westminster ∑ oldvictheatre.com
 J8 ⌂ SE1 1 Lambeth # 10:30am–5pm daily
Established as the Royal
North, Westminster, ¢ 1st Mon of month;
Coburg Theatre in 1818, this
Waterloo, Vauxhall # For 25 Dec–5 Jan ∑ garden
splendid building changed
tours only ∑ archbishopof museum.org.uk
its name to the Royal Victoria
canterbury.org
The world’s first museum of in 1833 in honour of the future
This Grade Ilisted palace garden history is housed in queen. The theatre became
has housed Archbishops of the restored church of St Mary a centre for music hall, the
Canterbury since the 13th of Lambeth Palace, where it immensely popular Victorian
century and today remains is set around a central knot entertainment. In 1912,
the archbishop’s official garden. In the grounds are Lillian Baylis became manager
London residence. The chapel the tombs of John Tradescant, and from 1914 to 1923
and its undercroft contain father and son, who, as well staged all of Shakespeare’s
elements from the 13th as being gardeners to Charles I plays here.
century, but a large part of the and Charles II, were adven In 2003 the Old Vic Theatre
rest of the building is far more turous plant hunters. The Company was set up as the
recent. It has been frequently tomb of William Bligh of resident company, and
restored, including by Edward HMS Bounty, the ship set adrift although tickets can be
Blore in 1828. The Tudor in the Pacific Ocean after the pricey, there are cheap
gatehouse dates from 1485 fateful mutiny, can also be seats for younger people.
and is one of the city’s most seen here. Coincidentally, his Fascinating theatre tours
familiar riverside landmarks. vessel had been on a plant take place around once a
The garden, planted with collecting voyage. month, and are full of back
many mature trees, is open on The museum presents a stage snippets and anecdotes.
the first Friday of the month history of gardening in Britain,
in summer, while you can visit including objects collected by
the palace yearround by pre the Tradescants, and an archive
booking a place on a guided
tour (check website).
of garden design. It also runs a
programme of exhibitions and
Did You Know?
Until the first Westminster events, and has an excellent Despite the fact that it
Bridge was built, the horse shop and café. During renova was named in her honour,
ferry that operated between tions in 2017, which created a Queen Victoria only
here and Millbank was a new garden and opened up visited the Old Vic
principal river crossing. The the church tower for the first once, aged 14.
revenues from this ferry went time, a vault was discovered
to the archbishop. containing 30 lead coffins.
231
The Peace Pagoda in Battersea Park
CHELSEA
AND BATTERSEA
Chelsea was last in vogue in the 1960s when
showy young shoppers, including the Rolling
Stones, paraded along the King’s Road. Formerly
a riverside village, it first became fashionable in
Tudor times, with Henry VIII liking it so much that
he had a small palace (long vanished) built here.
In the 18th century it featured renowned riverside
pleasure gardens, painted by Canaletto. Later
artists, including Turner, Whistler and Rossetti,
were attracted by the river views from Cheyne
Walk over to Battersea. From the mid-19th century
those views featured picturesque Battersea Park,
whose landscaping was enhanced in 1951 when it
too was laid out as pleasure gardens for the Festival
of Britain. In graceless but impressive contrast, just
east of Chelsea Bridge, the colossal chimneys of
Battersea Power Station clouded the skies with
smoke between its opening in 1933 and its decom-
missioning in 1983. Decades of failed bids to make
use of the vast site – including turning it into a
theme park and football stadium – ensued until
a Malaysian consortium bought it for £400 million
in 2012. It is now part of London’s largest area of
urban regeneration, stretching down to Vauxhall,
featuring apartment blocks, shops and restaurants.
233
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EXPERIENCE
1-= 2\= 3\-=
National Army Saatchi Gallery King’s Road
Museum
 F9 ⌂ Duke of York’s HQ,  E9 ⌂ SW3 and SW10
EXPERIENCE Chelsea and Battersea
 E9 ⌂ Royal Hospital Rd King’s Rd SW3 1 Sloane 1 Sloane Square

SW3 1 Sloane Square Square # 10am–6pm
This is Chelsea’s central artery,
# 10am–5.30pm daily, till daily (last adm: 5:30pm)
with a wealth of upmarket
8pm first Wed of month ¢ For private events
high-street shops and smaller
∑ nam.ac.uk ∑ saatchigallery.com
boutiques. The miniskirt
Adjoining the Royal Hospital Set up by advertising mogul revolution of the 1960s – the
Chelsea is the official museum Charles Saatchi in order to birth of so-called “Swinging
of the British Army, with a showcase his impressive London” – began here, with
collection that spans its 600- contemporary art acquisitions, Mary Quant’s first shop,
year history, including many the Saatchi Gallery has Bazaar, and so have many
uniforms, paintings and moved location several times subsequent style trends,
portraits. Its five galleries in London. Now, however, perhaps the most famous
explore the role of the armed it is firmly established in of them being punk.
forces in society. As well as Chelsea at the Duke of York’s Look out for the Pheasantry
displays of militaria there Headquarters building, which at No 152, with its columns
are some thought-provoking dates from 1801. Saatchi is and statuary; built in 1881 as
audiovisual presentations perhaps best known for his the shopfront of a furniture-
and loads of great interactive espousal, in the 1980s and maker’s premises, it now
stuff for kids. 1990s, of the Young British conceals a pizza restaurant.
Artists movement led by At the top of King’s Road
Damien Hirst. Today, the is attractive 18th-century
exhibitions of contemporary Sloane Square, named after
art staged here (some of Sir Hans Sloane, the wealthy
which attract a fee) are wide- physician and collector who
ranging and international bought the manor of Chelsea
in scope, covering every- in 1712. On the east side is
thing from new Chinese the Royal Court Theatre,
artists to Pop Art and which for over 130 years has
rave culture. fostered new drama.
STAY
Barclay House
A classy B&B in an
exquisite Victorian
property, with an
impressive attention
to detail in the three
luxurious guest rooms,
from the underfloor Statue of Thomas More
heating to the 4"ø located outside Chelsea
rainforest showers. Carlyle’s House Old Church
 C10 ⌂ 21 Barclay Rd
 D10 ⌂ 24 Cheyne
SW6 ∑ barclayhouse
london.com
Row SW3 1 Sloane Square,
The glory of this church is
South Kensington # Mar–
]]] its Tudor monuments. One to
Oct: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun
Sir Thomas More, who built a
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
chapel here in 1528, contains
Lime Tree Hotel The historian Thomas Carlyle an inscription he wrote (in
Comfy, spotlessly moved into this modest 18th- Latin) asking to be buried
maintained rooms, each century house in 1834, and next to his wife. Among other
individually decorated wrote many of his best-known monuments is a 17th-century
and homely, make this books here, notably The French memorial to Lady Jane Cheyne,
large boutique B&B a Revolution. His presence at after whose husband Cheyne
cut above the rest. this address made Chelsea Walk was named. Outside the
 G8 ⌂ 135 Ebury St more fashionable and the church is a statue in memory
SW1 ∑ limetree house became a mecca for of More, “statesman, scholar,
hotel.co.uk literary figures, including saint”, gazing piously across
]]] novelists Charles Dickens and the river.
William Thackeray, poet Alfred
Lord Tennyson and naturalist
Charles Darwin. The house
has been restored and looks 6"'-=
as it would have done during Chelsea Physic Garden
Carlyle’s lifetime.
 E10 ⌂ 66 Royal Hospital
Rd SW3 1 Sloane Square
# Mar–Oct: 11am–5:30pm
5 Sun–Fri; Nov–Feb: 11am–
4pm Mon–Fri ¢ Five weeks
Chelsea Old Church
mid-Dec–Jan ∑ chelsea
 D10 ⌂ 64 Cheyne physicgarden.co.uk
Walk SW3 1 Sloane
Established by the Society
Square, South Kensington
of Apothecaries in 1673 to
# 2–4pm Tue–Thu
study plants for medicinal
∑ chelseaoldchurch.org.uk
use, this garden was saved
Rebuilt after World War II, this from closure in 1722 by a gift
square-towered building is a from Sir Hans Sloane, whose
careful replica of the medieval statue adorns it. New varieties
church here that was largely nurtured in its glasshouses
destroyed in World War II. have included cotton sent
to the plantations of the
southern United States.
Visitors to London’s oldest
The installation Golden botanic garden can see
Lotus (Inverted) by Conrad ancient trees and one of
Shawcross, at the Saatchi Britain’s first rock gardens,
Gallery (inset) installed in 1772.
237
from where there is a fine

7'-= view of Battersea Power
Royal Hospital Station across the river.
EAT
Chelsea
 F9 ⌂ Royal Hospital Rd
SW3 1 Sloane Square 8\-= Mother
# Great Hall: 10am–noon,
Chelsea Harbour The hip Copenhagen
2–4pm daily; chapel: 10am–
pizza joint has a London
4pm Mon–Sat; museum:  C10 ⌂ SW10 1 Fulham
outpost under the
10am–4pm Mon–Fri Broadway 3 Imperial Wharf
hangar-like railway arch
¢ 2 weeks over Christmas,
This is an impressive develop in Circus West Village.
public hols, for functions
ment of modern apartments,  G10 ⌂ Circus West
∑ chelsea-pensioners.co.uk
shops, offices, restaurants, a Village SW11 ∑ mother
This graceful complex was hotel and a marina. It is near restaurant.co.uk
commissioned by Charles II the site of Cremorne Pleasure ]]]
from Christopher Wren in Gardens, which closed in 1877
1682 as a retirement home for after more than 40 years as a
old or wounded soldiers, who venue for dances and circuses. Medlar
have been known as Chelsea The centrepiece of the harbour Refined French cuisine
Pensioners ever since. The is the Belvedere, a 20storey in a romantic, low-key
hospital opened ten years apartment tower with an environment. Good
later and is still home to about external glass lift and a fixed-price menus.
300 retired soldiers, whose pyramid roof, topped with  C10 ⌂ 438 King’s Rd
distinctive uniform of scarlet a golden ball on a rod that SW10 ∑ medlar
coat and tricorn hat dates rises and falls with the tide. restaurant.co.uk
from the 17th century. The ]]]
Pensioners lead guided tours
of the hospital on selected
days each month (see website). 9- The Builder’s Arms
Flanking the northern Battersea Park Smart neighbourhood
entrance are Wren’s two main pub serving traditional
 F10 ⌂ Albert Bridge Rd British food. It’s a con-
public rooms: the chapel,
SW11 1 Sloane Square genial place to drink too.
notable for its wonderful
then bus 137 3 Battersea
simplicity, and the panelled  E9 ⌂ 13 Britten St SW3
Park # 6:30am–10:30pm ∑ thebuildersarms
Great Hall. A small museum
daily ∑ wandsworth.gov. chelsea.co.uk
covers the history of the
uk/batterseapark
Chelsea Pensioners. ]]]
A statue of Charles II by This was the second public
Grinling Gibbons is to be park created to relieve the
found on the terrace outside, growing urban stresses of
238
BATTERSEA POWER STATION
The Great Hall at the Royal This is one of the London landmarks least known to
Hospital Chelsea, laid out visitors but best known to locals – and, of course, to Pink
for the Pensioners’ lunch Floyd fans: the monstrous industrial building with its four
towering smoke stacks graces the cover of their album
Animals. After it was decommissioned in 1983, numerous
Victorian Londoners – the first proposals for its redevelopment came and went. Now,
was Victoria Park (p322) in the finally, the colossal Grade II-listed structure is coming
East End. It opened in 1858 on back into use. A new riverside park, an extension to
the former Battersea Fields, a the Thames Path, a new Tube station and a myriad of
swampy area notorious for restaurants, shops and pricey housing all form part
vice centred on the Old Red of the new district now beginning to come to life.
House, a disreputable pub.
The new park was imme
diately popular, especially for
its manmade boating lake,
with its romantic rocks,
gardens and waterfalls. In
1985, the Peace Pagoda was
unveiled – a 35m (100ft)
high monument built by
Japanese Buddhist nuns and
monks and presented to the
park as a gift. There is also an
excellent children’s zoo
(entry fee), a playground,
sports activities and an art
gallery, the Pump House.
17thcentury stained glass,

commemorating Tudor q\-=
10 monarchs, comes from the Circus West Village
St Mary’s, Battersea former church. In 1782, the
 G10 ⌂ Battersea Power
poet and artist William Blake
 D10 ⌂ Battersea Church Station 1 Sloane Sq then
was married in the church.
Rd SW11 1 Sloane Sq bus 452 or 137 4 Battersea
Later, J M W Turner painted
then bus 19 or 319 # For Power Station ∑ battersea
views of the Thames from
services & by arrangement powerstation.co.uk
the church tower. Benedict
∑ stmarysbattersea.org.uk
Arnold, who served George Most easily reached by boat,
There has been a church here Washington in the American Circus West is the first stage of
since at least the 10th century. War of Independence but the gargantuan redevelopment
The present brick building defected to the British side, of Battersea Power Station,
dates from 1775, but the is buried here in the crypt. part of the regeneration of
riverside land stretching
between Battersea Park and
Battersea Park’s Peace Vauxhall in between the
Pagoda, which looks out towering power station and
over the river the train lines heading into
Victoria Station. Its ongoing
development, though cer
tainly commercially driven,
just about bridges the gap
between the independent and
corporate business worlds.
An interesting mix of
restaurants, bars and shops
have been installed inside
the railway arches and by the
newbuilds gathering around
the site, including a brewpub,
threescreen cinema and the
Turbine Theatre.
239
A LONG WALK
CHELSEA AND Chelsea and
Battersea
BATTERSEA CHELSEA AND

BATTERSEA
Distance 6.5 km (4 miles) Time 90 minutes

Locator Map
Nearest Tube Sloane Square For more detail see p234
This delightful circular walk ambles through the

impressive grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea and
across the river to Battersea Park, which features tidy R
ST
Victorian landscaping. It then returns to the narrow DR
AY
CO
DR
CO
AY
N
T ST L TT GA
village streets of Chelsea, winding past quaint town- EL EL S L O OA O
YS YS AN
D
D
NE
A TA
D
TA E
houses and beautiful, historic churches. The route
CA
CA
O OA N N A VE AV
R R NU EN
ST ST UC
ends on King’s Road, a shopping hub lined with RE RE AV E AV AY
E
E
EN EN
AC
AC
ET ET
DR
M
U U
stylish boutiques and pleasant eateries.
PL
PL
E E
A
A
H
H
TH
TH
L
L
SY
SY
U
U
OR
OR
DN
DN
E
PL ACYS PL AC E
F
F
ELYS TA N EL TA N
IXW
IXW
EY
I
EY
K
STREE
T S TREET
J U BSIQ
JUBILEE
ST
ST
MA QUAR
MA L E
P L AC E
P L AC E
St Luke’sSt Luke’s
AST
AST
S
RKH E
RKHARE
Church Church
UE
ELL
ELL
LE LE
AM
The
AM
Leave the market on Sydney CA CA The AV
E
Pheasantry
Pheasantry
ST
ST
Street and cross into the
garden of St Luke’s Church,
where Charles Dickens was Chelsea Farmers
Chelsea Farmers
Market Market
OL
OL
married in 1836.
RA
RA
D
D
SH
DN
SH
DN
D D
CH
CH
AW
OR
AW
OR
A A
RO RO
UR
UR
FIE
FIE
WA
WA
Chelsea Chelsea
CH
CH
LD
LD
LK
LK
Old TownOld Town Hall
Hall LE AL
E
ST
ST
DA S ET SD ET
The Pheasantry was a dance DE RE DE RE
ST
ST
C H E LCSHE EA L S E ARE ST CRHE ST

RE
RE
F LO
F LO
and painters’ studio then a music U
GL
GL
ET
CH
ET
CH ET
'S 'S ST
EB
ST E
EB
OD
OD
venue in the 1960s and 70s. G G R I ST R R I ST
CH
CH
E
E
OA
OA
CH CH
IN IN
ELS S
ELS
PL
PL
KL
K
KL
K
AC
AC
EA T R
EA
EY
EY
E
E
STR
S
M AE E T
MA
W
EET
R R
PE PE
NO
NO
ST
ST
PA S Q U
PA S Q U
UP EYNE UP EYNE
Cross King’s Road to reach
UL AR
UL AR
R
R
CH OW CH OW
RE
RE
TO E
R
T O BE
R
ST
ST
ET
ET
Chelsea Farmers Market,

NS
N SE A
BE
E E
T IC T IC
LA
LA
JUS ALK JUS ALK

Boy withBoy with a Dolphin
AU
an enclave of cafés and a Dolphin

W RST
W RST
U
W W
FO
FO
EN
EN
cra shops.
RT
RT
CE
CE
W A LK N E W A LK
NE Y
C HEY CHE Cadogan Cadogan
Crosby Crosby
ST
ST
Pier Pier
Charming Glebe Place has retained Hall Hall
much of its original character, with Albert Bridge
Albert Bridge
some Grade II listed houses.
Battersea Battersea
Bridge Bridge
There are two early Georgian
houses on Justice Walk – Duke’s
House and Monmouth House.
TE TE
Previous residents of the RK
GA
PA R OA D
RK
GA
PA R OA D
ALB
ALB
medieval Crosby Hall

BR
BR
BA DGE
BA DGE
W
W
include Richard III and

ERT
ERT
OR
OR
I
I
TT
TT
Sir Walter Raleigh.

FI
FI
ER ROA
ER ROA
ELD
ELD
SE D
SE D
BRI
BRI
A
A
STR E ET
STR E ET
Walk past the sought-aer

DGE
DGE
residences on Cheyne Walk,

an area renowned for
intellectual gatherings.
R
ROA
D
Return to Chelsea
via the Albert Bridge
Blossom blooming and pause at David
as spring comes to Wynne’s sculpture Boy
Battersea Park with a Dolphin.
240
Take a short detour off
King’s Road for your final
stop, the Saatchi Gallery
(p236) – a powerhouse of
contemporary art.
At the start of this

walk, turn le out
of Sloane Square
station and walk
south down Lower
ET ET Sloane Street.
RE RE
ST
START/
G AN FINISH
O E E
AC AC Sloane Sloane
AD
PL PL Square
Square
BO
BO
TT TT
LO W E
AD
LO W E
CO D
UR
UR
CEO
AYO A
NE
NE
R R
O St Lukes Church, a Gothic Revival
DR
ST
ST
R S LO
R S LO
RE
RE
'S 'S structure surrounded by rose bushes

ET
ET
D D
G G ROA ROA
E
CO CO
IN
A
IN
LI LI
NE
NE
K
Saatchi SaatchiST STI M PIM

RD
RD
P
Gallery Gallery
W
W
RO
RO
E
E
RO RO Enter the grounds of the

BRIDG
BRIDG
’S
S
AV YA F CH CH
K’
YA
RK
FR
EN L RA Royal Hospital Chelsea
RURR
EN
RR
L AN EL EL
TU
U N
T ET
U
TE
E E RO K L RO K L SE SE
W IN'S W IN (p238), which were designed
S
S
'S A A
D'
D'
RY
RY
AR
AR
BR BR by Christopher Wren.
ON
ON
EBU
EBU
Burton's Burton's
LE
LE
ID ID
D
G
D
Court Court G
ST
ST
E
A
E
O
O
R
R
OR OR
M M
L
L
GA O GA O
A
A
TE ND TE ND RO RO
IT
IT
Royal Hospital Pavilion Pavilion

Royal Hospital AD AD
P
P
E
E
S
S
Chelsea Chelsea
O
O
H
H
R a n e l aRgahn e l a g h Look out for the Pavilion in

L
L
YA
YA
RC
H
G a r d e nGsa r d e n s Ranelagh Gardens. Designed
O
O
R
R
HU T
EE T National
TI
National by John Soane, it displays
TR IT
E ArmyTE ArmyObelisk Obelisk a history of the area as
ST Museum S T Museum
RE R EE Georgian pleasure gardens.
SW S WE T T
W A W A
AL N AL N T NT
MEN KME
K K
A N KM B A N There’s also a granite Obelisk
EMB E Chelsea Bridge
EA EA Chelsea Bridge here which commemorates
ELS CHELS
n CH the 1849 battle at Chilianwalla
m e sh a m e s
Tha T (now Pakistan).
e r e r
Riv Riv
SOPWITH
SOPWITH
When crossing the elegant

QUEEN
QUEEN
Peace Peace Chelsea Bridge, look le to

TH TH
Pagoda Pagoda NOR NCOARR CA
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241
The beautiful interior of the Natural History Museum
SOUTH KENSINGTON
AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE
The tone was set for Kensington from the late
17th century when William III and Mary II bought
Kensington Palace. With the arrival of the royal
court it soon became a highly desirable residential
area, as it still is today, attracting the wealthy as
well as those who sought to sell them goods. It
remained largely rural until the late 18th century
when a period of urban expansion slowly began,
with Knightsbridge among the first spots to be
developed. It was in the 1850s that the pace of
transformation really exploded, the fuse lit by
the Great Exhibition of 1851. Held in Hyde Park,
the exhibition was the brainchild of Queen
Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, who sought
to demonstrate and promote British industry
and invention. It was a huge success and the
profits were ploughed into the creation of a
permanent showcase for the arts and sciences
in South Kensington. The great museums, the
Royal Albert Hall and the Royal Colleges of Art
and Music are all part of that legacy.
243
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1'\-=
VICTORIA AND
ALBERT MUSEUM
EXPERIENCE South Kensington and Knightsbridge
 D8 ⌂ Cromwell Rd SW7 1 South Kensington # 10am–5:45pm

daily (to 10pm Fri) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ vam.ac.uk
Housed in Victorian splendour, as well as modern state-of-the-art

galleries, the V&A is the world’s leading museum of art and design,
with its collection spanning 5,000 years of furniture, glass, textiles,
fashion, ceramics and jewellery.
The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A)

contains one of the world’s broadest
collections of art and design, with exhibits
ranging from early Christian devotional
objects to cutting-edge furniture. Originally
founded in 1852 to inspire design students as
the Museum of Manufactures, it was renamed
by Queen Victoria in 1899 in memory of Prince
Albert. The museum has undergone extensive
renovation since the early 2000s, including the
opening in 2017 of a new quarter on Exhibition
Road, encompassing the Sackler Courtyard
and an expanded Photography Centre in 2018.
More projects are in the pipeline.
The grand Cromwell Road
entrance to the V&A
The welcoming neon

information desk at
the museum
GALLERY GUIDE
The V&A has six levels numbered
from -1 to 4. Level 0 houses the
China, Japan and South Asia
galleries, the Fashion Gallery
and the Cast Courts. The British
Galleries are on Levels 1 and 3.
Level 2 has the 20th Century
galleries and silver, ironwork,
paintings and photography. The
glass display is on Level 3. The
Ceramics Galleries and Furniture
are on Level 4. The fantastic
European galleries from 300
The reading room of
to 1815 span levels -1 and 1.
the National Art Library
in the V&A
246
Must See
Did You Know?

The V&A was the first
museum to have its own
restaurant. The original
refreshment rooms are
still in use today.
Large-scale works, that were

once part of buildings, in the
Medieval & Renaissance gallery
247
British Galleries
A sequence of grand rooms
starting on Level 1 and
continuing on Level 3 are
devoted to British design
and decorative arts from
1500 to 1900. The luxurious
galleries chart Britain’s rise
from obscure island to
“workshop of the world”.

The galleries present the
evolution of British design
and the numerous influences,
whether technological or Vibrant examples of stained
aesthetic, that it has absorbed glass in the Sacred Silver and
from all over the world. Stained Glass galleries
Beautiful textiles, furniture,
costumes and household
objects illustrate the tastes War I. Beautifully crafted and is particularly notable for
and lifestyles of the country’s ceramics, textiles, metalwork lacquerware, Samurai armour
ruling classes. Among the and glass from Iran, Egypt and woodblock prints.
highlights are the opulent and Turkey show the Islamic
State Bed from Melville influence on fine and Architecture Gallery
House, and a number of decorative arts. The vast The Architecture Gallery
carefully preserved period sixteenth-century Ardabil features drawings, models,
rooms, including the stunning Carpet, one of the largest, photographs and architectural
Rococo Norfolk House Music oldest and most intricate in fragments from the V&A and
Room. Discovery Areas give the world, is the key exhibit. the Royal Institute of British
visitors a chance to delve Next door, the famous Tipu’s Architects (RIBA) in both
even deeper into the past by Tiger automaton from Mysore permanent displays and
trying on a hoop and petticoat and Ranjit Singh’s sheet-gold- temporary exhibitions.
or viewing 3D images through decorated throne are the A superb collection of
a Victorian stereoscope. highlights of the extensive artifacts and illustrations
South Asia collection, which from around the world
Asia: Middle East, ranges across 400 years from explores key themes, such as
South Asia, China the Mughal emperors to the construction techniques and
and Japan Raj. The China collection the role of public buildings.
The Jameel Gallery of Islamic encompasses rare jade and Don’t miss the detailed
Art in Room 42 houses a ceramics pieces and a fine architectural scale models,
collection of objects from the collection of Buddhas, dating including a traditional
early days of the Caliphs in back to the 6th century, while Japanese house, Modernist
the 7th century through to Japanese art is concentrated constructions from Ernö
the years preceding World in the gallery in Room 45, Goldfinger and others, and
Charles Barry’s Gothic plans
for the Palace of Westminster,
though models are often out
on loan.
Europe
Ten galleries, occupying an
entire wing of the museum,
house some of the world’s
greatest treasures of
medieval and Renaissance
Europe. Among the many
remarkable exhibits are the
notebooks of Leonardo da
Vinci; sculptures by Italian
masters such as Donatello
and Giambologna, some set
Ancient kimonos on in a Renaissance courtyard
display in the Toshiba garden setting; the fine
Gallery of Japanese Art enamel Becket Casket (c 1180);
248
and the reconstructed Santa
Chiara Chapel, the only one of Enamelled casket
its kind outside Italy, on Level 1. depicting the murder
The Europe collection of Thomas Becket
continues in the Level -1
galleries of the opposite wing,
which cover the period 1600 by Jean Cocteau, elegant
to 1815, and include several ballgowns from the 1950s;
re-created period rooms. and stunning dresses from
Room 48a on the ground floor Alexander McQueen. Textiles
is dedicated to the famous are also found throughout
Raphael Cartoons – huge the museum’s collections; the
designs for tapestries planned Japanese gallery in particular
for the Sistine Chapel, given a has some exquisite kimonos
refurbished gallery for their and other traditional textiles.
500th anniversary in 2020. In the Photography Centre
Another of the most famous Materials and (Rooms 99–101), there are
sights at the V&A are the extra- Techniques changing displays drawn from
ordinary Cast Courts, which This group of galleries is the museum’s 800,000- strong
have been part of the museum located on Level 2. In the collection, and you can handle
since its founding. They house Silver Galleries, 3,500 pieces antique cameras such as a
large plaster casts of major from 1400 to the present 1920s Kodak Brownie.
European sculptures, such as day are displayed in the
Rome’s Trajan’s Column and a beautifully refurbished Glass and Ceramics
5-m- (16-ft-) tall reproduction Victorian Rooms 65 to 69. The museum has the most
of Michaelangelo’s David, The Gilbert Collection of comprehensive collection
deemed so shocking by Queen gold, silver and micromosaics of glass and ceramics in the
Victoria that a fig leaf was is in Rooms 70–73. world. Examples of glass
created to cover his modesty. English landscapes feature covering 2,000 years are
among the works in the largely housed in Room 131,
Fashion and Textiles Paintings galleries (Rooms 81, which has a stunning glass
The popular Fashion Gallery 82, 87 and 88), including scenes balustrade on the staircase
displays items from the by Turner. The Sacred Silver and mezzanine by artist
largest and most compre- and Stained Glass galleries Danny Lane. Displays of
hensive collection of dress situated in Rooms 83 and 84 international contemporary
in the world. Around 100 display devotional treasures. glass are on display in this
exhibits spanning more than The highlight of the Ironwork room and in Room 129.
250 years are arranged galleries (Rooms 113 to 114e), The ceramics collection
chronologically. They feature is the Hereford Screen, a has an introductory gallery
a magnificent mantua from choir screen designed by presenting the history and
the 1750s, an 1850s wedding Sir George Gilbert Scott in development of ceramics
dress with veil and shoes, a 1862. The dazzling screen across the world. All of the
Schiaparelli evening coat became the V&A’s largest- major British pottery factories
embroidered with a design ever conservation project. are represented.
HIDDEN GEM
Relax and
Refresh
Be sure to visit the
museum’s original
refreshment rooms
off Room 16a (one of
which was designed by
William Morris). If the
weather is good, don’t
miss a wander in the
John Madejski Garden,
with a coffee in hand,
or pausing for breath at
Alexander McQueen’s
the Courtyard Café.
animal print dress Plato’s
Atlantis, from 2010
249
2'\-=
NATURAL HISTORY
MUSEUM
 D8 ⌂ Cromwell Rd SW7 1 South Kensington # 10am–5:50pm daily (till

10pm last Fri of month), last admission 5:30pm ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ nhm.ac.uk
A paradise for budding botanists, explorers and geologists, the

superlative Natural History Museum, with its specimens, skeletons
and simulators, is quite simply a national treasure and an absolute
must for any visitor to the capital.
Using interactive techniques and traditional The museum is divided into four zones, plus
displays, life on earth and the earth itself the Hintze Hall, the grand centrepiece of the
are vividly explained at this awe-inspiring building dominated by a huge skeleton of a
museum. And the building that houses blue whale. In the Blue Zone discover Human
the vast collection is a masterpiece in itself. Biology, Mammals, Dinosaurs and Images of
Founded as just one of several of the Victorian Nature. The Green Zone has Creepy Crawlies,
temples to learning, it opened in 1881 and was Fossils, Treasures and the Vault. The giant
designed by Alfred Waterhouse using revolu- escalator in the Earth Hall leads through
tionary building techniques. It is built on an a stunning globe to Red Zone highlights
iron and steel framework concealed behind Restless Surface and Earth’s Treasury. The
arches and columns, richly decorated with Orange Zone includes the Darwin Centre’s
sculptures of plants and animals. Cocoon and, outside, the Wildlife Garden.
1 The elegant museum is set

TOP
in grounds that include a UNMISSIBLE
peaceful wildlife garden. 5 EXHIBITS
2 One of the museum’s
impressively lifelike anima Triceratops Skull
tronic models, a T. rex lurches The gigantic skull of a
and roars in this popular planteating three
gallery. Exhibits of fossilized horned dinosaur.
skeletons and eggs are also
on display. Guy the Gorilla
3 Lifesize models are a London Zoo’s most
major attraction in the vast famous denizen in his
Mammals gallery. time now graces the
1 Treasures gallery.
Archaeopteryx
This valuable fossil of
a feathered dinosaur
provided the link
between birds and
dinosaurs.
Earthquake Simulator
Experience the effects
of an earthquake in
this simulation.
Wildlife Photography
Annual exhibition of
the world’s best nature
images (Oct–May).
2 3
250
Must See
Did You Know?

Kids can spend a night at
the museum at Dino
Snores, a monthly event
for those aged 7–11.
The 25.5-m- (84-ft-)

long skeleton of “Hope”,
the blue whale hanging
over Hintze Hall
251
3'\-=
SCIENCE MUSEUM
 D8 ⌂ Exhibition Rd SW7 1 South Kensington # 10am–6pm daily (last adm:
5:15pm; closes later in school hols) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ sciencemuseum.org.uk
Centuries of continuing scientific and technological innovation lie at the

heart of the Science Museum’s huge collection. Discover the science fact
behind science fiction and explore humanity’s achievements so far –
and where we might be heading next.
From steam engines to aeroengines, space
craft to robotics, this museum has a vast range
of scientific objects. Equally important is the
social context of science – what discoveries
and inventions mean for daytoday life – and
the process of discovery itself. The hightech
Wellcome Wing, at the western end of the
museum, has handson displays, an IMAX
cinema, a 3D theatre and galleries devoted
to scientific advancements.
The Science Museum’s exhibits are spread
over five floors, with two major new spaces
unveiled in 2019. Displaying over 3,000 artifacts
spanning five centuries, the spectacular
Wellcome Galleries on the first floor form
the largest space devoted to the history of
medicine and health in the world, while Science The unassuming exterior
City 1550–1800 explores London’s inexorable of the fascinating
rise to become the hub of global science. Science Museum
INSIDER TIP
Get Some Air
Though there are
several places to eat in
the museum, pack a
picnic and walk five
minutes to Hyde Park –
a perfect place for kids
to let off some steam.
252
Must See
TOP
UNMISSABLE
5 EXHIBITS
Apollo 10
US astronauts orbited
the moon in May 1969 in
the Apollo 10 capsule.
Who Am I?
Explore how your
genetics and your
upbringing make you
who you are.
Early flying machines and fighter planes Fly 360º

suspended over the Flight and Fly Zone Adrenaline-pumping
galleries on the third floor flight simulator, with
barrel rolls and loop-
the-loops.
A child enjoying the Space Descent VR

hands-on exhibits A virtual reality 400-km
in the immersive (250-mile) journey from
and imaginative space back to earth.
Wonderlab, which
has over 50 mind- Wonderlab
boggling exhibits, Hands-on science gallery
shows and for kids and adults alike.
demonstrations
Discovering more about

the earth’s climate in
the Atmosphere gallery
253
The soaring interior of
the Brompton Oratory, rich
in Italianate decoration
6
Royal College of Art

 C7 ⌂ Kensington Gore
SW7 1 High St Kensington,
South Kensington # For
exhibitions, lectures, film
screenings ∑ rca.ac.uk
Sir Hugh Casson’s mainly

glass-fronted building (1962)
is in stark contrast to the
Victoriana around it. The
college was founded in 1837
to teach design and practical
art for the manufacturing
industries. It became noted
for modern art in the 1950s
and 1960s, when David
Hockney, Peter Blake and
EXPERIENCE MORE Eduardo Paolozzi attended.
Dominican church in Brescia, 7'\-=

4= and the 18th-century altar in Royal Albert Hall
Brompton Oratory St Wilfrid’s Chapel came from a
 C7 ⌂ Kensington Gore
church in Rochefort, Belgium.
 D8 ⌂ Brompton Rd SW7 SW7 1 High St Kensington,
1 South Kensington, South Kensington # For
Knightsbridge # 6:30am– tours & performances daily
8pm daily ∑ brompton 5'-= ∑ royalalberthall.com
oratory.co.uk
Royal College of Music Completed in 1871, this huge
Famous for its splendid musical concert hall was modelled on
 C7 ⌂ Prince Consort Rd
tradition, the Italianate Oratory
SW7 # Times vary, check
is a rich (some think a little
website 1 South Kensington
too rich) monument to the
∑ rcm.ac.uk
English Catholic revival of the
SHOP
late 19th century, established Sir Arthur Blomfield designed
by John Henry Newman (later the turreted Gothic palace,
Cardinal Newman). with Bavarian overtones, that
The church was opened in has housed this distinguished Harrods
1884; its façade and dome were institution since 1894. Pupils The department store
added in the 1890s, and the have included the composers that could supply
interior has been progressively Benjamin Britten and Samuel anything from a packet
enriched ever since. Inside, all Coleridge-Taylor. The RCM’s of pins to an elephant –
the most eye-catching trea- museum has over 15,000 not quite true today, but
sures predate the church – musical treasures, including a Harrods still remains as
many of them were brought 15th-century clavicytherium – grand as ever.
here from Italian churches. the world’s earliest stringed  E7 ⌂ 87–135
Giuseppe Mazzuoli carved the keyboard instrument – and Brompton Rd,
huge marble figures of the 12 a choirbook that belonged Knightsbridge SW1
apostles for Siena Cathedral in to Anne Boleyn. Student-led ∑ harrods.com
the late 17th century. The beau- tours of the campus take
tiful Lady Altar was originally place each Wednesday
created in 1693 for the during term time.
254
Roman amphitheatres. On the Queen Victoria’s beloved 200 notable figures from the
elegant red-brick exterior the consort, was completed in arts, including painters, poets,
only ostentation is a frieze 1872, 11 years after his death. architects and musicians.
symbolizing the triumph of Fittingly, it is near the site of
arts and science. Originally the 1851 Exhibition, which
planned as the Hall of Arts Albert co-organized. The
and Science, Queen Victoria statue, by John Foley, shows 9\-=
renamed it in memory of her him with an exhibition Serpentine Galleries
husband when she laid the catalogue on his knee.
 D6 ⌂ Kensington Gdns
foundation stone in 1868. The Queen chose Sir George
W2 1 Lancaster Gate,
The hall is best known Gilbert Scott to design the
South Kensington
for hosting the “Proms”, monument, which stands
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun,
but it also stages rock 55 m (175 ft) high. It is loosely
public hols ¢ 24–26 Dec
concerts, comedy shows based on a medieval market
and between exhibitions
and even sports events. cross – although considerably
∑ serpentinegalleries.org
In preparation for its 150th more elaborate, with a black
anniversary in 2021, the and gilded spire, multi- The Serpentine Gallery houses
hall’s exterior has undergone coloured marble canopy, temporary exhibitions of
cleaning and renovation, stones, mosaics, enamels and major and rising contemporary
with a special series of events wrought iron. The Frieze of artists’ and architects’ work,
planned in celebration. Parnassus around the base of excitingly transforming its
the memorial depicts almost space to suit the exhibits.
Every summer, a temporary
pavilion is commissioned from
8 a major architect. A second
Albert Memorial building, the Serpentine
Did You Know? Sackler Gallery, in a former
 C7 ⌂ South Carriage
There are 169 carvings gunpowder store a five-
Drive, Kensington Gdns
of notable figures from minute walk away, displays
SW7 1 High St Kensington,
the arts in the similarly ambitious exhibits.
South Kensington
frieze around the An extension, designed by the
∑ royalparks.org.uk
Albert Memorial. late Zaha Hadid, houses the
This grand Gothic Revival Chucs café, and there is also
memorial to Prince Albert, an art bookshop.
The Royal Albert Hall, home

to musical events across a
wide variety of genres
255
for Mary in the 17th century.
0"\-= The palace also often displays
Kensington Palace clothes worn by many of the
royals, including the Queen
 B6 ⌂ Kensington Palace
and Princess Diana.
Gardens W8 1 High St
Kensington, Queensway,
Notting Hill Gate # Mar–
Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov– q-
Feb: 10am–4pm daily (last

Kensington Gardens
adm: 1 hr before closing)
∑ hrp.org.uk  C6 ⌂ W8 1 Bayswater,
High St Kensington,
Half of this spacious palace is
Queensway, Lancaster
used as royal apartments; the
Gate # 6am–dusk daily
other half, which includes the
18th-century state rooms, is
open to the public. When The former grounds of
William of Orange and his wife Kensington Palace became
Mary came to the throne in a public park in 1841. The
1689, they bought a mansion, gardens are full of charm,
dating from 1605, and com- starting with Sir George
missioned Christopher Wren Frampton’s statue (1912) of Passing the time aboard
to convert it into a royal palace. J M Barrie’s fictional Peter a rowing boat on Hyde
The palace has seen some Pan, playing his pipes for Park’s Serpentine
important royal events: in the bronze fairies and animals
1714, Queen Anne died here that cling to the column
from apoplexy brought on by below. Just north of here
overeating and, on 20 June are many lovely ornamental w-
1837, Princess Victoria of Kent fountains and statues, while The Diana, Princess
was woken at 5am to be told to the south is George of Wales Memorial
that her uncle William IV had Frederick Watts’ muscular Playground
died and she was now queen – horse and rider, Physical Energy.
 B6 ⌂ Kensington
the start of her 64-year reign. Close by is a summer house
Gardens 1 Bayswater,
After the death in 1997 of designed by William Kent in
Queensway # From 10am
Diana, Princess of Wales, the 1735. The Round Pond, built
daily; closing times vary,
gold gates to the south were in 1728, is often packed with
from 3:45pm Nov–Jan to
deluged with bouquets in model boats navigated by
7:45pm May–Aug ∑ royal
their thousands. enthusiasts young and old.
parks.org.uk
Visitors can explore inside In the north, near Lancaster
the King’s and Queen’s state Gate, is a dogs’ cemetery, The newest of Kensington
apartments, the latter little created in 1880 by the then Gardens’ three playgrounds,
changed since it was designed Duke of Cambridge. on the site of an earlier play-
ground funded by J M Barrie,
takes the boy who didn’t
want to grow up as its theme
and includes a beach cove
with a 15-m (50-ft) pirates’
galleon, a treehouse and a
mermaid’s fountain with a
slumbering crocodile. Though
all children under 13 must
be accompanied by an adult,
staff are on hand too. Many
features of the playground
are accessible to children
with specific needs.
The sunken garden

with reflecting
pool adjoining
Kensington Palace
256
INSIDER TIP 14 -
On the Water Hyde Park
Rent a pedalo or rowing
 E6 ⌂ W2 1 Hyde
boat from the Boathouse
Park Corner, Knightsbridge,
(Apr–Oct) and enjoy a
Lancaster Gate, Marble
tranquil tour of Hyde
Arch # 5am–midnight
Park’s Serpentine lake.
daily ∑ royalparks.org.uk
The brave can dive in
for a refreshing swim The ancient manor of Hyde The Serenity, a bronze
at the lido in summer was part of the lands of sculpture of an ibis,
(weekends in May; daily Westminster Abbey seized by overlooks the Serpentine
Jun–early Sep). Henry VIII on the Dissolution in Hyde Park
of the Monasteries in 1536.
It has remained a royal park
ever since. Henry used it for
13 hunting, but James I opened it 15
Marble Arch to the public in the early 17th Speakers’ Corner
century. The Serpentine, an
 E5 ⌂ Park Lane W1  E5 ⌂ Hyde Park W2
artificial lake used for boating
1 Marble Arch 1 Marble Arch
and bathing, was created
John Nash designed the arch when Caroline, George II’s An 1872 law made it legal for
in 1827 as the main entrance queen, dammed the flow of anyone to assemble an audi
to Buckingham Palace, though the Westbourne River in 1730. ence and address them on
it proved too narrow for the The Princess Diana Memorial whatever topic they chose.
grandest coaches and in 1851 Fountain is to the south of Since then, this corner of
was moved here. Historically, the Serpentine. Hyde Park has become the
only senior members of the In its time, the park has established venue for bud
royal family and one of the been a venue for duelling, ding public orators and a fair
royal artillery regiments are horse racing, demonstrations number of eccentrics. On
allowed to pass under it. and musical performances. Sunday mornings, speakers
The arch stands near the The 1851 Great Exhibition was from fringe groups and one
site of the old Tyburn gallows, held here in a vast glass palace. member political parties
where until 1783 the city’s Come Christmas time, the reveal their plans for the
most notorious criminals were festive Winter Wonderland betterment of humanity (or
hanged in front of crowds of takes over, with markets, an otherwise) while assembled
bloodthirsty spectators. ice rink and a funfair. onlookers heckle them.
257
A SHORT WALK David Hockney and Peter
SOUTH Blake are among the great

artists who trained at the
Royal College of Art
KENSINGTON (p254).

Nearest Tube South Kensington
The former Royal
This area is characterized by its world- College of Organists
renowned museums, which are housed in was decorated by
grandiose buildings celebrating Victorian F W Moody in 1876.
self-confidence. Take a stroll from the Albert
Memorial in Kensington Gardens, past the
Opened in 1871,
Royal Albert Hall, to the Victoria and Albert the Royal Albert
Museum and admire the monuments to Hall has a PR
IN
the royal couple that made London a world beautiful curved CE
capital of industry and knowledge. exterior (p254).
CO
NS
OR
Historic musical instruments T
are exhibited at the Royal
College of Music (p254).
Did You Know?

The Royal Albert Hall
was partly funded
by selling seats on a
999-year lease. IM
PE
RIA
L C
O LL
EG
E R
O AD
ON
TI
BI
HI
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The Natural History

Museum houses CR
everything from dinosaurs OM
WE
to moon rocks (p250). LL
RO
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Visitors can experiment with

interactive displays at the
Science Museum (p252).
CR
OM
FINISH WE
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0 metres 100 N
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258
START
The Albert Memorial was built to
commemorate Queen Victoria’s
consort (p255).
SOUTH KENSINGTON
AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE
The Albert Hall Mansions,

built by Norman Shaw in
1879, started a fashion for
red brick.
KE
NS Locator Map
IN For more detail see p244
GT
ON
GO
RE
The Royal Geographical
Society was founded in 1830.
Scottish missionary and explorer
David Livingstone (1813–73) was
a member.
AL
BE
RT COURT
RO
AD
Imperial College is one

of the country’s leading
scientific institutions.
AD
RO
PR
IN
CE A wealth of objects from
´S
GA around the globe illustrate
RD
EN a rich history of design and
S decoration at the Victoria
and Albert Museum (p246).
The gilded Albert Memorial
Holy Trinity church dates gleams in the sunshine
from the 19th century and
is located among cottages
in a calm backwater.
The Brompton Oratory was

built during the 19th-century
Catholic revival (p254).
Brompton Square, begun

in 1821, established this as a
fashionable residential area.
GAR
DENS
259
Brightly painted shops and houses on Portobello Road
KENSINGTON,
HOLLAND PARK
AND NOTTING HILL
Kensington remained a country village of market
gardens and mansions until the 1830s. Out
standing among these mansions was Holland
House, part of whose grounds are now Holland
Park. The area grew up rapidly in the mid19th
century and most of its buildings date from then –
mainly expensive apartments, mansion flats and
fashionable shops. It was during that century that
a slew of famous artists and writers settled in the
area, notable among them Henry James, William
Thackeray, Edward Linley Sambourne and Lord
Leighton, the striking homes of the latter two,
18 Stafford Terrace and Leighton House, now open
to the public. It was also during the 19th century
that Notting Hill emerged as a suburb, initially
attracting welltodo residents in much the same
vein as elsewhere in Kensington. By the end of
World War II, however, many of the stuccoed terraced
houses had been converted to multipleoccupancy
tenements. They became homes, during the 1950s,
to West Indian immigrant families who began
arriving in the area in large numbers – their presence
spawned the first Notting Hill Carnival, in 1966.
261
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Memorial Memorial
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AND NOTTING HILL
T H
T H
Must See
K e n s Ki ne gn tsoi n g t o n
E
1 Design Museum
G a r d Ge n a rs d e n s
B R
B R
Experience More
O A
O A
Kensington
Kensington
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Pond Pond 2 Portobello Road
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Memorial Memorial 8 Notting Hill
N
KENSIN KENSIN 9 Museum of Brands, Packaging

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and Advertising
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q Kensington Square
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Royal College
1 Montparnasse Café
ST ALBANS GROVE
ST ALBANS GROVE
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2 Café Tarte
OV IA OV IA
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LAUNCESTON S T E R
3 Holland Park Café

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Road Road
1\-=
DESIGN MUSEUM
 A7 ⌂ 224–8 Kensington High St W8 1 Kensington High St, Holland
Park # 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm on first Fri of every month; last adm:
1 hour before closing) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ designmuseum.org
EXPERIENCE Kensington, Holland Park and Notting Hill
The Design Museum, housed in a truly unique building, is dedicated

to every element of contemporary design, including architecture,
transport, graphics, furniture and fashion. Its imaginatively curated
temporary exhibitions usually outshine its rather small but
nevertheless engaging permanent display.
The museum is housed in what was once the Commonwealth

Institute, built in the 1960s and famed for its dramatically
cascading roof – a hyperbolic parabola made with 25 tonnes
of Zimbabwean copper. The institute closed in 2002 and the SHOP
interior was completely refashioned as the museum’s new
home in 2016, with a huge atrium of sweeping, geometric Designer Shopping
spaces. There is room enough for four galleries – three of The Design Museum
them for the superlative programme of temporary exhibitions shop is one of the best
and one to house the excellent and occasionally interactive museum shops in
permanent collection, called Designer Maker User, which is London for the
free to explore. The exhibition covers design disciplines from originality and
architecture and the digital world to fashion and graphics. diversity of its carefully
The building also houses a lecture theatre, café and two selected stock. Items
appealing shops. The beautiful green woodland of Holland include clothing, stylish
Park is located right next door. stationery, models and
miniatures, prints,
kitchenware
Exhibits displayed and more.
beneath the museum’s
remarkable roof
264
Must See
GALLERY GUIDE
The permanent exhibition, called
Designer Maker User, examines some
of the most iconic product designs of
the modern world. It also shows a cross-
section of recent innovations from
the three perspectives of its title.
1 Attractive displays of innovative design

feature in the permanent collection.
2 The Grade II-listed building has an
unusual sweeping roof design.
3 The Design Museum is housed in the
former Commonwealth Institute building,
which was originally opened in 1962. 3
265
EXPERIENCE MORE
was a noted centre of social
2\-= and political intrigue. The 3rd
Portobello Road Baron Holland, nephew of the
statesman Charles James Fox,
Did You Know?
 A5 ⌂ W11 1 Notting Hill
hosted parties for the likes of Lord Leighton held
Gate, Ladbroke Grove

the poet Lord Byron, who met Britain’s shortest peerage:
# Main market: 9am–7pm
Lady Caroline Lamb here. made a baron on 24
Fri & Sat; general market,
The house suffered heavy January 1896 – he died
bric-a-brac: 9am–6pm
bomb damage during World the next day.
Mon–Wed, 9am–1pm Thu
War II, but surviving parts and
∑ portobelloroad.co.uk
outbuildings have been put to
There has been a market here various uses: the orangery is
since 1837. Today the southern presently used as a wedding
end of the road consists mostly venue while the old Garden 4"'=
of stalls that sell antiques, Ballroom is now a restaurant. 18 Stafford Terrace
jewellery, souvenirs and other The former front terrace of
 A7 ⌂ W8 1 High St
collectables. The market is the house is often used as a
Kensington # 2–5:30pm
extremely popular and tends backdrop for summer musical
Wed, Sat & Sun ∑ rbkc.gov.
to be quite lively, but it is events and open-air film
uk/subsites/museums.aspx
well worth visiting, if only screenings, and theatre, opera
to experience its bustling, and dance performances. The former home of Linley
cheerful atmosphere. The The park still contains some Sambourne, built in about
busiest day is Saturday, when of the formal gardens laid 1870, remains much as
the antiques arcades are out in the early 19th century. Sambourne furnished it – in
open. If you are looking for Surprisingly, there is also a the Victorian manner, with
bargains, be warned – the Japanese garden, created for Oriental ornaments and heavy
stallholders have a sound idea the 1991 London Festival of velvet curtains. Some rooms
of the value of what they are Japan. Look out for koi carp have William Morris wallpaper.
selling. Other markets run in the pond beneath the Sambourne was a cartoonist
along the rest of the street on waterfall. Colourful peacocks for the satirical magazine
different days, with vintage roam the grounds here, and Punch; drawings cram the walls
and new clothes featured there is a well-equipped of the house. Tours take place
around Portobello Green, playground perfect for kids to at 11am on Wednesday and
under Westway near Ladbroke while away an afternoon in. Sunday (booking required).
Grove Tube (Fri–Sun).
3\-
Holland Park
 A7 ⌂ Ilchester Place, W8
1 Holland Park, High Street
Kensington, Notting Hill
Gate # 7:30am–dusk daily
∑ rbkc.gov.uk
This small but delightful park,

more wooded and intimate
than the large royal parks to
its east, Hyde Park (p257) and
Kensington Gardens (p256),
was opened in 1952 on what
remained of the grounds of
the Jacobean Holland House.
The rest had been sold off
in the late 19th century for
the construction of new, large
houses. During its heyday in
the 19th century, the mansion
266
STAY
The Main House
A chic guest house with
suites combining
modern luxuries with
antique furniture.
 A5 ⌂ 6 Colville Road
W11 ∑ themain
house.co.uk
]]]
There are paintings and

Exquisite tilework in drawings displayed, including
Eastern style in Leighton some by Edward Burne-Jones,
House’s Arab Hall John Millais, G F Watts and
many works by Leighton him-
self. There are free guided tours
as the apotheosis of the of the house at 3pm on Wed-
5"'= Pre-Raphaelite movement. nesday and Sunday and free
Leighton House His house, built in 1864–9, walking tours of other houses
has been preserved with its in the area built by Leighton
 A7 ⌂ 12 Holland Park Rd
opulent decoration as an and his contemporaries on
W14 1 High St Kensington
extraordinary monument Thursday and Saturday at
# 10am–5:30pm Wed–Mon
to the Victorian aesthetics 11am (booking required).
∑ rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/
Leighton embodied. The
museums.aspx
highlight is the Arab Hall,
Lord Leighton was one of the added in 1879 to house
most respected Victorian Leighton’s collection of 6\-=
painters – his work Flaming Islamic tiles, some inscribed High Street
June is regarded by many with text from the Koran. Kensington
 B7 ⌂ W8 1 High St
Kensington
One of west London’s main

shopping areas, High Street
Kensington reflects the
tastes of this affluent neigh-
bourhood, with lots of rather
conservative clothing stores
and various British and inter-
national high-street names.
At nos 101–111, Japan
House is an exquisite Japanese
cultural centre, with a gallery
staging excellent temporary
exhibitions, a restaurant and
a shop selling beautifully
crafted stationery, homeware
and lots more.
Stylized Japanese
elegance in the Kyoto
Garden, Holland Park
267
7\-=
Little Venice
 C4 ⌂ W2 1 Warwick
Avenue, Edgware Road
This is a charming corner of

London where the western
end of the Regent’s Canal,
the eastern end of the Grand

Union Canal and the short
waterway to the Paddington
Basin converge. Three bridges
frame a small triangle of water
populated with floating cafés
and even a puppet theatre –
there are plenty of delightful
pubs and restaurants in the
nearby terraced streets too.
Towpath walks will take you
for miles in either direction
along the canals, and
narrowboats sail up to
Camden Lock (p170).
tins, bottles, boxes,

9"-= magazines, toys, games,
8\-= Museum of Brands, household appliances and
Notting Hill Packaging and much more besides. In the
Advertising main exhibition space, the
 A6 ⌂ W11
twisty Time Tunnel, familiar
1 Notting Hill Gate  A5 ⌂ 111–117 Lancaster
products appear multiple
Rd W11 1 Ladbroke Grove
Now the home of Europe’s times, their packaging
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
biggest street carnival, most updated as the years pass.
11am–5pm Sun & public hols
of this area was farmland until Displays reflect past trends,
∑ museumofbrands.com
the 19th century. In the 1950s like the Egyptomania of the
and 60s, it became a centre This out-of-the-ordinary 1920s and the militarization
for the Caribbean community, museum is at once a perm- of marketing during the
many of whom lived here anent exhibition for the two World Wars. There’s a
when they first arrived in history of product packaging section for every decade of
Britain. The riotous carnival in the UK, a study of the the 20th and 21st centuries
started in 1966 and takes over changing tastes and fashions and an intriguing 19th-
the area every August bank since the Victorian period and century section, including
holiday weekend, when a gleeful trip down memory teapots, gift sets and guides
costumed parades meander lane. The sheer volume of from the Great Exhibition
through the streets. items on display is dizzying: of 1851.
NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL

The centrepiece in Europe’s largest street
carnival is a procession of flamboyant floats
accompanied by steel bands, costumed
dancers and mobile sound systems,
transforming the area around Notting Hill,
Ladbroke Grove and Westbourne Park into a
celebration of Caribbean culture. Along the
parade route are static sound systems,
stages and food stalls. Born out of the
British West Indian experience in London,
the carnival has expanded exponentially,
and today over 2.5 million people attend.
268
EAT
Montparnasse Café
Homely French café and
pâtisserie offering
simple breakfasts,
lunches and pastries.
 B7 ⌂ 22 Thackeray
St W8
]]]
Café Tarte
Nicely prepared light
lunches at this friendly
café – the irresistible
Houseboats packed cakes steal the show.
along the moorings  A7 ⌂ 270 Kensington
at Little Venice High St W8 ∑ cafetarte.
co.uk
]]]
0 q
St Sophia’s Cathedral Kensington Square Holland Park Café
Great location, on the
 B5 ⌂ Moscow Rd W2  B7 ⌂ W8 1 High St edge of the picturesque
1 Queensway # 10am– Kensington park. Enjoy soups,
2pm daily ∑ stsophia. sandwiches and cakes.
One of London’s oldest
org.uk
squares, it was laid out in  A7 ⌂ Holland
The richly decorated interior of the 1680s, and a few early Park, W8
this Greek Orthodox cathedral 18th-century houses still ∑ cooksand
is a riot of coloured marble remain (Nos 11 and 12 are partners.co.uk
and gilded mosaics. After the the oldest). The renowned ]]]
service on the second Sunday philosopher John Stuart
of each month it’s possible to Mill lived at No 18, and the
visit the treasury down in the Pre-Raphaelite painter Candella
Teas on vintage china,
crypt. The services feature a and illustrator Edward
dainty sandwiches and
superb polyphonic choir. Burne-Jones at No 41.
light meals.
 B7 ⌂ 34 Kensington
Church St W8
∑ candellatearoom.com
]]]
The Muffin Man

Tea Shop
Archetypally quaint,
traditional tea shop
with a hint of English
village about it.
 B7 ⌂ 12 Wrights
Lane W8
∑ themuffinman
teashop.co.uk.
]]]
Houses on Kensington Square;
some with blue plaques (inset)
commemorating notable residents
269
A SHORT WALK
KENSINGTON
AND HOLLAND PARK

Nearest Tube High Street Kensington
Although now part of central London, as recently as

the 1830s this was a country village of market gardens Did You Know?
and mansions. Outstanding among these was Holland
House; part of its grounds are now Holland Park. A walk Holland Park was once
through the area takes you past many of its attractive notorious as a location
mid-19th century buildings, including expensive for highway robbers.
apartments, mansion flats and fashionable shops.
Parts of the old formal

gardens of Holland House Holland House, a
feature in the delightful rambling Jacobean
Holland Park (p266). mansion started in 1605,
was largely demolished
in the 1950s.
P
H
IL
LI
M
The Summer
O
Ballroom, now an
R
E
upmarket restaurant,
has parts that date
from the 1630s.
ST E
HE
R P
ILC
LA
CE
ME
L
Melbury Road is lined with
BU
large Victorian houses, long

RY
home to celebrity residents.

RO
AD
The Design Museum is an START

international showcase for the
many design skills at which
Britain excels (p264).
ED
WA
Leighton House is preserved

RD
as it was when the Victorian

ES
painter Lord Leighton lived

SQ
here (p267).
UA
RE
The Victorian letter box

on the High Street is one of
the oldest in London.
270
KENSINGTON,
HOLLAND PARK
AND NOTTING HILL
Drayson Mews is
one of the quaint
alleys that were built
behind large town
houses for stables.
Kensington Civic Today most have
Centre, an Locator Map
No 16 Phillimore been converted into For more detail see p262
assertive modern small houses.
Place was home to
building by Sir
Kenneth Grahame,
Basil Spence, was
author of the
completed in 1976.
children’s classic The
Wind in the Willows,
from 1901 to 1908.
DR
AY
CA
SO
HO
MP
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RN
DE
TO
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N
HI
AC
WS
SR
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NT
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HO
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VI
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ES
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WA ET
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E RE Kensington
D
R ST
MO
E
GH
High Street
LI
N
IL HI station
S
PH N
TO
I NG
NS
KE
18 Stafford Terrace has

a carefully preserved late
Victorian interior, complete
with original furnishings
and draperies (p266).
Sticky Fingers, a lively café on

the corner of Phillimore Gardens,
is owned by Bill Wyman, former
bassist of the Rolling Stones.
A statue in
0 metres 100 N
the grounds of
0 yards 100 Holland Park
271
Marylebone High Street at dusk
REGENT’S PARK
AND MARYLEBONE
The name Marylebone is a derivation of “St Mary
by the Bourne”, the church that once stood next
to the River Tyburn (also called Tybourne), long
since buried underground. Many of the street
names around Marylebone, including Wigmore
Street and Portland Place, are taken from
ancestral connections to the Howard de Walden
family whose estate still occupies more or less
the entire district. The estate dates from the
early 18th century but before this time the land
had been in royal hands. Henry VIII established
hunting grounds to the north of Marylebone,
some of which became Regent’s Park when it
was formally laid out from 1812 by John Nash,
the architect responsible for the design of much
of Regency London. Along the northern perimeter
of the park runs the Regent’s Canal, also laid out
by Nash in the early 19th century. Not long after
its completion, the recently founded Zoological
Society of London opened their Zoological Gardens
in five acres of the park – the beginnings of
London Zoo.
273
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PrimrosPe rimrose
Hill Hill
A A
V V
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N N
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REGENT’S
REGENT’S
PARK PARK RR RR AD AD
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1-
REGENT’S PARK
 F2 ⌂ NW1 1 Regent’s Park, Baker St, Great Portland St # 5am–dusk daily
One of the city’s largest green spaces, Regent’s Park has something
for everyone. Its attractions include London Zoo, an open-air theatre
and a boating lake, as well as a vast network of pathways that take you
to sights such as Regent’s Canal and Queen Mary’s Gardens.
This area of land became enclosed as a park in

1812. John Nash designed the scheme and
originally envisaged a kind of garden suburb,
dotted with 56 villas in a variety of Classical
styles, and a pleasure palace for the Prince
Did You Know?
Regent. In the event only eight villas – but no There are more than
palace – were built inside the park (three 12,000 roses in Queen
survive round the edge of the Inner Circle). Mary’s Gardens – London’s
The boating lake, which is home to many largest collection.
water birds, is marvellously romantic, especially
when music drifts across from the bandstand.
Queen Mary’s Gardens are a mass of wonderful
sights and smells in summer, when visitors can
also enjoy a full programme of outdoor theatre,
including Shakespeare, musicals and children’s
plays, at the Open Air Theatre nearby. The park
is also renowned for its excellent sports facilities.
Nash’s master plan for the park continues just
beyond its northeastern edge in Park Village
East and West. These elegant stucco buildings
date from 1828, the same year in which London
Zoo first opened.
The boating lake, which is home

to many varieties of water birds,
is marvellously romantic,
especially when music drifts
across from the bandstand.
Enjoying the view of swans swimming

in the lake at Regent’s Park
276
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
INSIDER TIP
Music for Trees
Listen to compositions 2"'\-=
by students from the London Zoo
Royal Academy of Music
 F1 ⌂ Regent’s Park
with this app while you
NW1 1 Camden Town,
wander under the trees
in Regent’s Park. Regent’s Park # From
10am daily; closing
times vary, check website
(last adm: 1 hr before
closing) ¢ 25 Dec
∑ zsl.org
By international standards,
London Zoo is relatively
small but it packs a lot in,
including a Sumatran tiger,
Western lowland gorillas, Watching penguins
spider monkeys, giraffes, swim underwater at
iguanas, pythons and bird- Penguin Beach
eating tarantulas. In total,
the zoo has more than
650 animal species and over
1,000 mammals, amphibians,
birds and reptiles.
Despite its dense
population, many of the
STAY
larger animals here enjoy London Zoo Lodges
relatively spacious and Wake up to the roaring
interesting enclosures, of lions after spending
especially since the zoo the night at a lodge in
embarked on an extensive the Land of the Lions,
series of imaginative rede- a set of comfortable,
velopments in the early charming cabins inside
2000s. Since then, new the zoo. Also included
enclosures have included are two full days at the
Penguin Beach, Gorilla zoo, tours at sunset,
Kingdom, Rainforest Life, after dark and in the
Tiger Territory and In with morning, as well as
the Lemurs, with the breakfast and dinner.
Snowdon Aviary set to reopen  F1 ∑ zsl.org/zsl-
as a colobus monkey walk- london-zoo/london-
through following a Foster + zoo-lodge
Partners reboot in 2021. ]]]
The largest enclosure is
the Land of the Lions, where
Asiatic lions prowl around The Langham
the zoo’s rendering of the The Palm Court at this
Gir Forest in western India. grand hotel is suppos-
Visitors look on from walk- edly the original home
ways and an imagining of of the afternoon tea.
a Gujarat village, complete Elegant restaurants,
with train station, high street bars and rooms.
and temple ruins.  G4 ⌂ 1c Portland
The zoo emphasizes its Place W1B 1JA
important international role ∑ langhamhotels.com
in conservation and research ]]]
Meticulously-designed work and is run by, as well as
flowerbeds and trees as home to, the Zoological
seen from above Society of London.
277
EXPERIENCE Regent’s Park and Marylebone
heroes, the displays changing The spacious interior

3- fairly regularly to keep up of St Marylebone
St Marylebone with who’s in and who’s out. Parish Church
Parish Church Visitors can step onto the
palace balcony with Her
 F3 ⌂ Marylebone Rd
Majesty or “attend” a celebrity online services. The only way
NW1 1 Regent’s Park
bash. In “Spirit of London” to get a look inside is to apply
# 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 8am–
you can travel in stylized for a place, via the website,
4pm Sat & Sun ∑ stmaryle
London taxi-cabs through on one of the BBC’s television
bone.org
momentous events in the or radio shows as a studio
Noted poets Robert Browning city’s history, such as the audience member.
and Elizabeth Barrett were Great Fire of 1666 and 1960s
married here in 1846 after Swinging London. There are
eloping from her strict family also sections dedicated to
home on nearby Wimpole franchises such as Marvel 6
Street. The large, stately church and Star Wars, with detailed All Souls,
by Thomas Hardwick was built walk-in sets and a 4D Marvel Langham Place
in 1817 after the former church, film experience.
 G4 ⌂ Langham Place W1
where Admiral Lord Nelson Ticket prices are fairly steep,
1 Oxford Circus # 10am–
worshipped and where Lord but cheaper if you buy online
5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm
Byron was christened in in advance. Opting for timed
& 5–7:30pm Sun
1778, had become too small. tickets can help reduce
∑ allsouls.org
Hardwick was determined queuing times.
that the same should not Designed by John Nash in
happen to his new church – so 1824, this church’s quirky
everything is on a grand scale. round frontage is best seen
5 from Regent Street. When it
Broadcasting House was first built, the spire was
ridiculed as it appeared too
4"-=  G4 ⌂ Portland Place W1
slender and flimsy, and the
1 Oxford Circus ∑ bbc.co.uk
Madame Tussauds church itself was described
The first radio broadcast as “one of the most miserable
 F3 ⌂ Marylebone Rd
was made from here in 1932, structures in the metropolis”.
NW1 1 Baker St # Usually
two months before the Art The only Nash church in
9/10am–4/5pm daily; times
Deco building was officially London, it had close links with
vary, check website
opened. Redevelopment has the BBC, based across the
∑ madametussauds.com
now turned it into a state-of- street at Broadcasting House;
Madame Tussaud began her the-art digital centre for BBC the daily service, a stalwart
wax-modelling career rather Radio, TV and BBC News and of the radio schedule, was
morbidly, making death masks
of well-known victims of the
French Revolution. Today, Noted poets Robert Browning and Elizabeth
traditional wax-modelling
techniques are still used to
Barrett were married at St Marylebone Parish
re-create politicians, royals, Church in 1846 after eloping from her strict
actors, rock stars and sporting family home on nearby Wimpole Street.
278
broadcast from here for armour collection is the
many years. It maintains this second largest in the UK.
broadcasting tradition with There are regular tours
a “sermon streaming” and talks daily; details are
resource on its website. on the website.
7'-= 9"'=
Royal Academy Lord’s Cricket Ground
of Music Museum
 D2 ⌂ NW8 1 St John’s
 F3 ⌂ Marylebone Wood # For guided tours:
Rd NW1 1 Baker Street, Apr–Oct 10am–3pm; Nov–
Regent’s Park # 11:30am– Mar 10am–2pm ¢ 21 Dec–
5:30pm Mon–Fri, noon–4pm 1 Jan ∑ lords.org
Sat ¢ Dec ∑ ram.ac.uk
Set up in 1814 by professional
This simple museum in one cricketer Thomas Lord, the
of the country’s finest music ground can be visited on
schools showcases the Royal guided tours that take in the
Academy’s collection of Eighteenth-century Long Room, the dressing
historical instruments. The European art in the rooms and the Marylebone
three small rooms, staffed Wallace Collection Cricket Club Museum, which
by student volunteers, are is full of memorabilia from
dispersed across three floors. cricketing history, including
On the ground floor you can collecting of four generations a stuffed sparrow killed by a
find out about the history of of the Hertford family, it is a cricket ball and the Ashes urn.
the institution; in the Strings must for anyone with even This tiny urn contains, suppo-
Gallery and the Piano Gallery a passing interest in the sedly, the burned remains of
upstairs are a prized Stradivari progress of European art a cricket bail signifying “the
violin and viola and a 17th- up to the late 19th century. death of English cricket” after
century harpsichord. There’s Among the 70 masterworks a notable defeat by Australia.
a restaurant and frequent are Frans Hals’s The Laughing It is still the object of ferocious
free concerts in the revamped Cavalier, Velázquez’s The Lady competition between the
performance spaces. with a Fan, Titian’s Perseus two national teams. The
and Andromeda, Rembrandt’s museum explains the history
Titus and Canaletto’s two of the game, and mementos
paintings of Venice. There of notable cricketers make
8'\= are several superb portraits it a place of pilgrimage for
Wallace Collection by Reynolds, Romney and devotees of the sport. Tours
Gainsborough. Other are hourly and it is essential
 F4 ⌂ Hertford House,
highlights include Sèvres to book ahead; there are no
Manchester Sq W1
porcelain and sculpture by tours on major match days,
1 Bond St, Baker St
Houdon and Roubiliac. The but ticket holders do get free
# 10am–5pm daily
fine European and Oriental access to the museum.
∑ wallacecollection.org
This is one of the world’s

finest private collections
of art. Bequeathed to the
government in 1897 with the
stipulation that it go on public
display with nothing added
or removed, it remained intact
until 2020 when loans were
permitted for the first time.
The product of passionate
The late-Victorian
pavilion at Lord’s
Cricket Ground
279
Another case for the great
detective unfolding in the
Sherlock Holmes Museum
and is furnished exactly as

described in the books.
Visitors are greeted by
Holmes’s “housekeeper” and

shown to his re-created rooms
on the first floor. The shop
sells souvenirs including short
stories and deerstalker hats.
such as Nike, UNIQLO and Gap w=

plus British favourites such as London Central
Did You Know? Marks & Spencer and Topshop. Mosque
 E2 ⌂ 146 Park Rd NW8
There have been more
1 Marylebone, St John’s
films starring Sherlock
Holmes than any q"= Wood, Baker St # 10am–
last prayer ∑ iccuk.org
other (human) Sherlock Holmes
character. Museum Surrounded by trees on the
edge of Regent’s Park, this
 E3 ⌂ 221b Baker St
large, golden-domed mosque
NW1 1 Baker St
was designed by Sir Frederick
# 9:30am–6pm daily
Gibberd and completed in
0\-= ∑ sherlock-holmes.co.uk
1978. Built to cater for the
Oxford Street Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s increasing number of Muslim
fictional detective lived at residents in and visitors to
 F5 ⌂ W1 1 Marble Arch,
221b Baker Street, an address London, the mosque is
Bond St, Oxford Circus,
that did not exist at the time, capable of holding 1,800
Tottenham Court Rd
because Baker Street was worshippers. The main hall
∑ oxfordstreet.co.uk
then much shorter. This of worship is a plain square
This is London’s biggest and building, dating from 1815, chamber with a domed roof
busiest shopping street, is on what Conan Doyle would and a magnificent carpet.
running from Marble Arch at have known as Upper Baker Visitors must remove their
the western end right along Street, above Marylebone shoes before entering the
Marylebone’s southern border Road. It has been converted mosque, and women should
and then beyond, dividing to resemble Holmes’s flat, remember to cover their head.
Soho and Fitzrovia and ending
at the Centre Point tower
block. The western half of the
street is home to several
department stores, most
notably Selfridges, the largest
and most famous (don’t miss
its magnificent Food Hall),
although John Lewis, opened
in 1864, predates it by half a
century. Along the street’s
length and its shopper-
clogged pavements are the
UK flagship stores of brands
Immaculate Cumberland
Terrace, among London’s
most desirable addresses
280
Welcoming pubs and bars
offering refreshment on
Marylebone High Street
1907 as Debenham and of central London, is often

e\ Freebody’s department store – overlooked by visitors. Inside
Wigmore Hall now known as Debenhams. smart red-and-yellow brick
townhouses are organic food
 G4 ⌂ 36 Wigmore St W1
shops, independent fashion
1 Bond St, Oxford Circus
stores and refined, often high-
∑ wigmore-hall.org.uk 14 end restaurants, frequented
This appealing little concert Cumberland Terrace by a well-dressed set of local
hall for chamber music was shoppers. Must-sees are iconic
 G2 ⌂ NW1 1 Great
designed by T E Collcutt, design depot the Conran Shop
Portland St, Regent’s Park,
architect of the Savoy hotel, and the incomparable Daunt
Camden Town
in 1900. At first it was called Books. Nearby, St Vincent and
Bechstein Hall because it was Architect James Thomson is Aybrook streets host the
attached to the Bechstein credited with the detailed Marylebone Farmers’ Market
piano showroom; the area used design of this, the longest and every Sunday (10am–2pm),
to be the heart of London’s most elaborate of the Neo- one of the largest and most
piano trade. Opposite is the Art Classical terraces created by upmarket in London.
Nouveau emporium built in John Nash that border Regent’s
Park. Completed in 1828, it
was designed to be visible
from a palace Nash planned
SHOP
for the Prince Regent (later
George IV). The palace was
never built because the prince
was too busy with his plans Daunt Books
for Buckingham Palace (p90). The most wonderful
feature of this original
Edwardian bookshop is
its long oak galleries.
t\-= Shelves carry travel
Marylebone guides and literature on
High Street each country.
 F4 ⌂ NW1 1 Baker St,  F4 ⌂ 83 Marylebone

High St W1
Regent’s Park, Bond St
∑ dauntbooks.co.uk
∑ marylebonevillage.com
This boutique-heavy high

street, the most villagey part
281
A SHORT WALK
MARYLEBONE
Distance 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Time 30 minutes
Nearest Tube Regent’s Park
Just south of Regent’s Park lies the medieval village of

Marylebone (originally Maryburne, the stream by St Mary’s
church). Until the 18th century it was surrounded by fields,
but these were built over as fashionable London drifted
west. The area has maintained its elegance, and your walk
will take you past the spacious houses that professionals,
especially doctors, used in the mid-19th century to receive The splendid Edwardian
wealthy clients. The route also takes in Marylebone High interior of Daunt Books,
Street, full of interesting, high-quality food and clothes built in 1910
shops, bookshops and cafés.
U
John Nash laid out Regent’s
PP
ER
Park (p276), one of the city’s
royal parks, in 1812 as a
setting for classically
designed villas and terraces.
LE
FINISH RC
CI ST
YO
The Royal Academy of Music EA

RK
(p279), England’s first music

E
AC
BR
academy, was founded in 1822. RR

ID
The present brick building, with TE

G
RK
E
its own concert hall, is from 1911.

YO
AD
YO
RO
RK
R
Poets Robert Browning TE NE
G
U
AT
and Elizabeth Barrett O T BO

ES E
E
were married in 1846 in W YL

St Marylebone Parish CE AR
A M
Church (p278). RR
TE
RK
YO
MARYLEBONE HIGH
AL
L
NO
SO
The Madame
P
TT
Tussauds waxworks
PL
IN
AC
museum (p278) has

GH
E
been in business since

AM
1835 and remains one

PL
of London’s most
STRE
LU
AC
popular attractions.
XB
ET
E
ET
RE
OR
ST
AM
OU
H
NG
GH
T TI
Baker Street NO
station
ST
RE
ET
Marylebone High Street (p281) is lined with

attractive shops. At No 83 is Daunt Books with its
galleried interior. On the corner of Marylebone Lane,
V V Rouleaux is a colourful haberdashery shop.
282
0 metres 100 N
0 yards 100 REGENT’S
PARK AND
MARYLEBONE
Park Crescent’s breathtaking façades by

Nash have been preserved, although the
interiors were rebuilt as offices in the 1960s.
The crescent seals the north end of Nash’s
ceremonial route from St James’s to Regent’s
Park via Regent Street and Portland Place. Locator Map
Regent’s Park
station
Consulting rooms of
eminent medical
specialists have been
START located at Harley Street
for more than a century.
PA
RK
In the centre of
SQ
broad Portland
U
AR
Place is a statue
E
of Field Marshal
W
NT
ES
Sir George Stuart

CE
T
H
White, who won the

ES
AR
C Victoria Cross for

R
LE
RK gallantry in the
Y
PA
ST
Afghan War of 1879.

PO
RT
LA
N
D
PL
AC
E
ET
H
RE
AR
EY ST
L
S
E The Royal
IR
TR
SH
Institute of
EE
N British Architects
O
T
EV is housed in a
D
striking Art Deco
building designed
by George Grey
Wornum in 1934.
U
PP
ER
W
IM
PO
BE
LE
AU
ST
M
O
N
T
ST
RE
ET
Enjoying café life

along the pleasant
Marylebone High Street
283
A LONG WALK
ALONG THE
REGENT’S CANAL
Nearest Tube Warwick Avenue
Master builder John Nash wanted the Regent’s Little Venice, an area known for its peaceful
Canal to pass through Regent’s Park, but canals, then diverts to take in the spectacular
instead it circles the northern border of the cityscape view from Primrose Hill. The route
park. Opened in 1820, it is long defunct as a ends in the cool and quirky streets of Camden,
commercial waterway but is now popular with where you can browse the colourful shops
cyclists and walkers. This long walk starts in or grab a bite to eat.
AV AV
EN EN
TO
TO
W
W
U U
N
E
N
E
AD
AD
SH
SH
RO
RO
R R
EN
EN
TIT R
O O
CH D
R R
AD
TE TE
R
I A I A
D
AC AC D D
AC AC OO OO
W D W
SA AD
'S
ST
R O' RO
HN HN
L
NA
NA
JO JO
St John’s St John’s N N
EN
EN
ST S ET SE
IT S
D
Wood Wood T
CK
CK
L LI
R
AL AL
MA
MA
ST
ST
JO
JO
T
HN
HN
ER
ER
'S
'S
ALB
ALB
W
W
W E L OA
W
OO L I
OO
E L RO
D NG D
D
LI AD
R
NG
HI T
HI
GH O
GH
TO
NCE
NCE
ST
ST
N
Wi
S T J O HSNT ’ SJ O H N ’ S
PRI
PRI
Ho
WO O DWO O D
St John’s St John’s
D Lord's Cricket Wood Church
Lord's Cricket
D Wood Church
A A
G RO
G RO
O O
R R Ground Ground D D
LL LL A A
VE
VE
Taking in the expansive city view H

A
H
A
RO ROOA
D AD
EN
EN
O
R R
from the top of Primrose Hill D D
D
O O
RO
RO
O O
HA
HA
W WG E
AD
AD
E
MI
MI
G
UE UE 'S 'S D D
M
M
LT
LT
EN EN N LO LO
na
na
N
AI
AI
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ON
AV AV H H Ca Ca
PA
PA
P
DA
DA ER
JO JO
VE
VE
’s ’s
e nt e nt
T
TE
LE
LE
ST ST Reg Reg
YS
R
RA
RA
VA
VA
ND ND
T
ND
ND
LA LA
LE
LE
ER ER Crocker’s Crocker’s
OL R
OL R
When the road turns TH TH Folly Folly

LI LI
PH
PH
SU SU SS SS
ON ON ROS
to the le by the O O
AND
AND
S S
ST
ST
RT RT N N
EN EN
AV
AV
HE ST HE ST
lavish Crocker’s Folly RD RD
OLPH RD
FIS FIS
HA
E
E
CA
CA
GA GA
ON
ON
LPH RD
REW
ST
ST
PT
PT
restaurant, follow the

EL
EL
W W
AM
AM
AR AR N N AD AD
LA
LA
OO
TO TO
ET
ET
sign-posted Canal Way. W W RO RO

IN
IN
FR
PE
FR
PE
D
IC IC IF IF
RE
RE
K K NF NF ET ET
RD
RD
CL CL
ED
ED
D D OL OL
ST
ST
RE RE
G
AV AV L L
IE IE D D
START ST ST
RO
RO
EN EN
G
F E F E ST ST
OM U OM U
CH
CH
UE U
W
E N BL N
VE
E Warwick BL
Warwick VE
UR
UR
AV
A
AV A
R
Avenue Avenue
CH
CH
EN
EY EY
E
DL DL
UE
DA DA OA OA EE
T
EE
Take the le -hand AI AI BR BR STR STR
BL BL M M
LL LL
R
OM OM
exit from Warwick FIE FIE BE BE
O
LD LD M
A
RO Little
RO Little
D
Avenue and walk to AD A

VeniceD Venice Edgware
PADDINGTON PADDINGTON Edgware
GREEN GREEN
Road Road
the traffic lights by
WAYESA
TW4 0A (YM ) A 4 0 ( M )
the canal bridge at WEST W HARROW HARROW
ROAD ROAD
Blomfield Road.
Descend down some steps to A splash of green soon

the canal area of Little Venice appears as you start
(p268) and turn le to walk walking beside Regent’s
back beneath the pretty Park (p276) here.
blue iron bridge.
284
Seek out the viewing panel
at the summit, which helps
identify the landmarks of Along the
the city skyline. Continue down Fitzroy Regent’s Canal
Road past No 23, once
Opposite The home to W B Yeats and REGENT’S
PARK AND
Queens pub is later Sylvia Plath, then MARYLEBONE
No 122 Regent’s Park follow the route past a
Road, where Friedrich Victorian boarding school
Engels once lived. on Princess Road.
Locator Map
CH CH For more detail see p262, p274, p166
ALK ALK
FA R F
M R ARM R
D D
Camden Camden
Market Market
The The
TO WN RD
TO WN RD
GL GL
KE NT ISH
KE NT ISH
O O
Queens Queens AV U C E
E N ST
AV U C E
E N ST
CH U E ECR UE ER RD RD
AL HA EN EN
MD MD
LC
RD
RD
CO OT
R D Pirate Pirate
T
RD
OY
OY
CA
CA
Castle Castle
ZR
ZR
FINISH
FIT
FIT
Viewing ViewingPrimrose Primrose

Panel Hill Studios
Panel Hill Studios Camden Town
Camden Town
REGENT’ R
P r i m r o s eP r i m r o s e
S P A REKG E N T ’ S P A R K
R OA D R OA D C A M D ECNA M D E N
Hill Hill ALBERT ALBERT
NCE NCE RO RO
PRI PRI AD AD
al al Enter the bustling
Can Can
WE ISE
WE ISE
Camden Market (p170)

R
R
L LTI R
LL
' s ' s
ent ent
S TCH D
O
and have a browse around
Reg Reg
HF
A IDE
FIE
the eccentric stores.

LD
L D
CLE CLE
CIR CIR
London London
ST
TER TER
OU OU
L
Zoo Zoo You can hop on the

D
waterbus back to Little

R
Primrose Hill Venice here or continue

Studios residents to Camden Town tube.
have included the
RegeR
n te ’gs e n t ’ s conductor Sir Henry Rejoin the canal by
Wood and renowned Gloucester Avenue and
Park Park
infield Winfield book illustrator
ouse House turn le under the railway
Arthur Rackham. bridge past the Pirate
Castle, a popular water
Make your way into
sports centre.
Primrose Hill (p171)
and walk up the sloping
Boating Boating path till you reach the
Lake Lake summit. Pause to take
in the stunning views.
A PA
R R 0 metres 0 metres 500 N 500 N
SU
SU
EY
K K
SS
SS
ST
X X
E
R R
O LA O LA 0 yards 0 yards 500 500
P
E RD A C D
REER
A CE
OR D
SMO
D
SSM ROS As you wander past mansions
LINH
LINH
and park land, look out for

BHOASR
BOS
OPE
OPE
the Coalbrookdale bridge,

TEO
TON
WNOO P
which is distinguished by its

ST
ST
DL
PL
huge pillars.
VE
Marylebone
Marylebone
AV
EN
UE
T
E RD E RD
BON LEBON
YLE Y
MAR MAR
Vibrant shop
displays spilling
out onto the
streets of Camden
285
Cycling through the woodland on Hampstead Heath
HAMPSTEAD
AND HIGHGATE
These rather exclusive north London
neighbourhoods, perched on either side
of the vast, bucolic Hampstead Heath, were
distinct villages centuries before they were
swallowed up by the metropolis, a quality still
tangible to this day. There has been a settlement
in Highgate since at least the early Middle Ages,
when an important staging post on the Great
North Road from London was established, with
a gate to control access. Hampstead is known
to have existed as far back as the 10th century.
From around the 17th century both became
fashionable retreats from the capital, an allure
only partially dampened in the 19th century
by their own urban expansion, the arrival of
the railway and the encroachment of the city.
They also share illustrious literary and artistic
connections, though Hampstead’s arguably have
the edge, with the likes of John Keats having set
up home there. Though they may have lived in
Hampstead, many of the city’s intellectuals are
buried in Highgate’s cemetery – among them
political theorist Karl Marx.
287
WIN
WIN
NIN
NIN
E E LANE LANE
LAN LAN E A DM P S T E A D
H A M P S TH
GTO
GTO
D D
WILD
WILD
N
A A
E E
RO
RO
WO T T
WO
AD
AD
KenwoodKenwood
S
OD
OD
P
House House
H AM
H AM
O O
R
R
AD AD
WAY
WAY
AD
AD
AD
AD
E E
ST ST
MP MP
RO
RO
HA HA
Ladies' Ladies'
Bathing Bathing
Pond Pond
H a mHpasmt ep as dt e a d
N
N
O
O
RT
RT
S
H
H e a Ht he a t h
RD
RD
IA
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EN
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East East
SP
SP
H e a t hH e a t h
WAY
WAY
West West
H e a t hH e a t h
Viaduct Pond
Viaduct Pond
TH TH
AL AL
HE
HE
LE O F
LE O F
VA
VA
Hampstead
Hampstead
HEA
HEA
ROAD ROAD Heath Heath

HEATH EST HEATH
WEST W
TH
TH
E A ST E A ST R D D
H E AT H H E AT H R
BR
BR
EA EA
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Mixed Bathing
ANC
ANC
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HO LF
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GR OVE
GR OVE
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OR D R D
C AN C AN
RO
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CH CH
HI
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Well Walk
Well Walk
LO
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S S
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H H H H
TC LL
TC LL
S T E AD
S T E AD
EA EA
WA E L L
WA E L L
UR UR
Fenton House
Fenton House
STREET
STREET
H
LK
LK
THE MOU N T
THE MOU N T
CH CH TH TH
W
and Garden
and Garden
N E W END NEW END NEW END
HAMP
HAMP
N EW
END
SQUARE SQUARE
Burgh House
Burgh House RO RO
L
RO RO L
HIL
HIL
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RISG NAL RISG NAL Y Y

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E E RE R
RK RK
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HO
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W I L LOW W IR
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Flask Walk ROA D
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LL
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2 Willow2Road
Willow Road
LIA
HI HI
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Hampstead
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H E AT
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Hampstead
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H AMPST I L G R I M I R E
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IN’S IN’S Heath Heath E INE
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Finchley Road
Finchley Road CK C
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& Frognal & Frognal RO RO

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1 Hampstead Heath
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5 Fenton House and Garden

N
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1-
HAMPSTEAD HEATH
 X3 ⌂ NW3, NW5 1 Hampstead, Golders Green 3 Hampstead Heath, Gospel Oak
# 24 hrs daily; Kenwood House: Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily
∑ Hampstead Heath: cityoflondon.gov.uk; Kenwood House: english-heritage.org.uk
EXPERIENCE Hampstead and Highgate
A favourite green space among Londoners, Hampstead Heath is the largest

of inner London’s parklands, though it is too wild and wonderfully unkempt
to be considered a proper park.
The sprawling heath, separating the hilltop the heath are Vale of Health, an isolated village
villages of Hampstead and Highgate, brings a tucked inside the southern boundary, and the
slice of the countryside to the city, with large picturesque Viaduct Pond.
tracts of wild woodlands and meadows rolling
over hills and around ponds and lakes. Covering Kenwood House
an area of 8 sq km (3 sq miles), its natural Located on Hampstead Lane is this magnificent
habitats attract a wealth of wildlife, including white Neo-Classical mansion. Its walls are hung
bats and some 180 species of birds. There are with paintings by old masters and it overlooks
also all kinds of landscaped areas, most notably splendidly landscaped grounds high on the
the Hill Garden, a charming Edwardian garden edge of the north side of the heath. This is one
with a raised pergola walkway, flowering plants of the most picturesque parts of the whole area,
and beautiful formal pond, which was once the with two large and lovely ponds, sweeping lawns
grounds to Lord Leverhulme’s house, but is now and trails through the woodlands. There has
open to all. Among the many other features of been a house here since 1616, but the present
View over London from

the green environs of
Hampstead Heath
Taking a dip in the men’s

bathing pond (there are
women’s and mixed ponds too)
GREAT VIEW
Hillside Heights
Parliament Hill, in the southeast corner
of the heath, provides one of the most
spectacular views over the capital,
taking in the Shard, the skyscrapers of
the City, the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral
and Canary Wharf.
290
Must See
Statue by Henry
Moore in the grounds
of Kenwood House
Grand Kenwood House, on

the edge of Hampstead Heath
villa was remodelled by Robert Adam in 1764
for the Earl of Mansfield. Adam transformed
the interior and most of his work has survived,
including the highlight, the resplendent library,
with its ceiling paintings, opposing apses and
Corinthian columns. Precious paintings in
Kenwood’s collection include works by Vermeer,
Van Dyck, Hals, Reynolds, Gainsborough and
Rembrandt – his Self-Portrait with Two Circles is
the star attraction of the collection. The house
has a tearoom and café with a lovely garden
seating area. In summer there are ticketed,
open-air concerts in the grounds, though many Elegant rooms filled with
people pack a picnic and sit nearby to listen. old master paintings
2"'
HIGHGATE
CEMETERY
 Z2 ⌂ Swain’s Lane N6 1 Archway # Times vary,

check website ∑ highgatecemetery.org
Opened in 1839, this is London’s best-known cemetery,

most famous for epitomizing the Victorian obsession
with death and the afterlife.
The two leafy sections of Highgate Cemetery, divided by a

country lane, are full of flowerbeds, statues, elaborate tombs
and overgrown gravestones, bathed in a light suitably subdued
by the shade from the small forests of trees. For well-off Statue of an angel, one
Victorians, preoccupied with death and insistent on burial of many found among
rather than cremation, this was the graveyard of choice, where the tombs and trees
you could lie shoulder to shoulder with poets, artists and
intellectuals. Both sections contain the graves of numerous
iconic figures but it is the West Cemetery (guided tour only)
that is the more atmospheric, and architecturally interesting.
Its showpiece is the restored Egyptian Avenue, a street of Did You Know?
family vaults styled on ancient Egyptian tombs, leading to
Original cemetery
the Circle of Lebanon, a ring of vaults topped by a cedar tree.
regulations required
tombs to be encased in
lead, which caused
some to explode.
Karl Marx’s tomb in its

tranquil surroundings in
Highgate Cemetery
292
Must See
TOP
NOTABLE
5 RESIDENTS
Karl Marx (1818–83)

German political
philosopher.
George Eliot (1819–80)

The pen name of Mary
Ann Evans, author of
Middlemarch.
Fenton House, whose
Douglas Adams treasures can be explored
(1952–2001) in the summer months
Author of the cult-
classic The Hitchhiker’s
Guide to the Galaxy.
Christina Rossetti
EXPERIENCE MORE
(1830–94)
Romantic poet. museum owns a significant
3\-= art collection, which includes
Malcolm McLaren
(1946–2010)
Flask Walk and works by Duncan Grant and
Manager of the
Well Walk Helen Allingham, along with
notorious Sex Pistols. furniture and archive material
 W3 ⌂ NW3 1 Hampstead
on the area. In the 1720s,
Flask Walk is named after the Dr William Gibbons, chief
Flask pub. Here, in the 18th physician to the spa, lived
century, the area’s therapeutic at this address.
spa water was put into flasks
and sold to visitors or sent to
London. A disused fountain
now marks the site of the well 5"'=ø
in nearby Well Walk. There Fenton House
have been many notable and Garden
residents of Well Walk: artist
 V3 ⌂ 20 Hampstead
John Constable, novelists
Grove NW3 1 Hampstead
D H Lawrence and J B Priestley,
# Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm
and the poet John Keats.
Wed–Sun, public hols &
At the High Street end, Flask
some days in Dec
Walk is narrow and lined with
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
old shops. Beyond the Flask
pub it broadens into a row Built in 1686, this handsome
of fine Regency houses. William and Mary house
is the oldest mansion in
Hampstead. It contains the
Benton Fletcher collection of
4-= early keyboard instruments –
Burgh House a harpsichord dating from
1612 is said to have been
 W3 ⌂ New End Sq NW3
played by Handel – and a
1 Hampstead # Noon–
collection of porcelain. The
4pm Wed–Fri & Sun
instruments are kept in full
¢ 3 weeks at Christmas
working order and concerts
∑ burghhouse.org.uk
are sometimes given. The
Since 1979, an independent porcelain was largely accum
trust has run Burgh House ulated by Lady Binning who,
as the Hampstead Museum, in 1952, left the house and
which illustrates the history its contents to the National
of the area and some of its Trust. Don’t miss the splendid
notable residents. The walled garden.
293
The buildings of Church

Row, Hampstead, a perfect
slice of Georgian history
almost exactly as he designed collection, the geometrically

6 and lived in it, complete with designed rooms are full of
Church Row many of his beguiling posses innovative touches – removable
sions. The relatively plain, walls, for example, that allow
 V4 ⌂ NW3 1 Hampstead
unremarkable façade makes interior spaces to be reconfig
Church Row is one of the most the sleek, stylish yet warm ured. Admission from 11am to
complete Georgian streets in interior all the more memorable. 2pm is limited to hourly tours.
London. Much of its original Steps from the ground floor
detail has survived, notably the delicately fan out in a spiral
ironwork. At the west end is leading up to the openplan,
St John’s, Hampstead’s parish beautifully efficient living space. 8
church, built in 1745. The iron Bathed in a natural light per Downshire Hill
gates are earlier and come fect for viewing Goldfinger’s
 W4 ⌂ NW3
from Canons Park in Edgware, precious 20thcentury art
1 Hampstead
Middlesex. Inside the church
is a bust of poet John Keats. A beautiful street of mainly
Artist John Constable’s grave is Regency houses, Downshire
in the churchyard, and a long Hill lent its name to a group of
list of other Hampstead artists, including Stanley
luminaries are buried in Spencer and Mark Gertler,
the adjoining cemetery. who would gather at No 47
between the two World Wars.
The same house had been
the meeting place of Pre
7"'ø Raphaelite artists, among
2 Willow Road them Dante Gabriel Rossetti
and Edward BurneJones.
 W3 ⌂ NW3 1 Hamp
A more recent resident, at
stead 3 Hampstead Heath
No 5, was the late Jim Henson,
# Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm Wed–
the creator of The Muppets.
Sun ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
The church on the corner
The striking modernist 1930s (the second Hampstead
home of Hungarian architect church to be called St John’s)
Ernö Goldfinger – designer of The Regency façade of was built in 1823 to serve the
a number of Brutalist London St John’s Downshire Hill, Hill’s residents. Inside, it still
tower blocks – is preserved completed in 1823 has its original box pews.
294
Wednesdays and on the
9"'= first Sunday of the month.
Keats House The museum also puts on
Did You Know? regular talks.
 W4 ⌂ 10 Keats Grove
The Freud Museum In 2016 Anna Freud was
NW3 1 Hampstead,
has a collection of commemorated with her
Belsize Park 3 Hampstead
contemporary art open own blue plaque on the
Heath # 11am–5pm Wed–
for public viewing. house, joining that of her
Sun ¢ Christmas week
father; it is the only 19th-
∑ cityof london.gov.uk /
century building in the city
keats
to have been awarded the
Originally two semi-detached rare “double blue” accolade.
houses built in 1816, the 0'=
smaller one became Keats’s Freud Museum
home in 1818, when a friend
 V5 ⌂ 20 Maresfield
persuaded him to move in.
Gdns NW3 1 Finchley Rd
DRINK
Keats spent two productive
# Noon–5pm Wed–Sun
years here: perhaps his most
¢ 1 Jan, 25–26 Dec ∑ freud.
celebrated poem Ode to a
org.uk
Nightingale was said to have The Spaniards Inn
been written under a plum In 1938, Sigmund Freud, the Dickensian pub on
tree in the garden. The founder of psychoanalysis, Hampstead Heath with
Brawne family moved into the fled from Nazi persecution in a colourful 500-year
larger house a year later and Vienna to this Hampstead history, a beer garden
Keats became engaged to house. Making use of the for summer and an open
their daughter, Fanny. How- possessions he brought with fire in winter.
ever, the marriage never took him, his family re-created the  W1 ⌂ Spaniards Rd
place: Keats died of consump- atmosphere of his Vienna NW3 ∑ thespaniards
tion in Rome before two years consulting rooms. hampstead.co.uk
had passed. He was only 25 After Freud died in 1939 his
years old. A copy of one of daughter Anna (who was a
The Southampton
Keats’s love letters to Fanny, pioneer of child psycho-
Arms
the engagement ring he analysis) kept the house as
A relaxed traditional
offered her and a lock of her it was, and in 1986 it was
pub with a dinky beer
hair are among the mementos opened as a museum dedi-
garden, offering a
exhibited at the house, whose cated to her father. On display
superior range of ales
displays were revamped for is the couch on which patients
from independent
its 200th anniversary in 2018. lay for analysis. A series of
breweries.
Visitors are also able to see 1930s home movies shows
copies of some of Keats’s Freud with his dog as well as  Y3 ⌂ 139 Highgate
manuscripts, part of a collec- more distressing footage of Rd NW5
∑ thesouthampton
tion that serves as a tribute to Nazi attacks on his apartment.
arms.co.uk
his life and work. Thirty-minute There’s a bookshop and free
tours begin at 1:30pm and 3pm. tours take place at 2pm on
The Holly Bush
A cosy 18th-century
pub with low ceilings on
a charming backstreet
in Hampstead. Great
pub grub too.
 V3 ⌂ 22 Holly
Mount NW3
∑ hollybush
hampstead.co.uk
A stained-glass skylight
illuminating the library
of Keats House
295
A SHORT WALK
HAMPSTEAD Did You Know?
Admiral’s House was
the inspiration for the
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Time 30 minutes home of Admiral
Nearest Tube Hampstead Boom in P L Travers’
Mary Poppins.
Perched awkwardly on a hilltop, with its broad heath

to the north, Hampstead has kept its village
atmosphere and sense of being outside A welcome retreat from the city,
the city. This has attracted artists Hampstead Heath’s broad open
and writers since Georgian spaces include bathing ponds,
times and long made it meadows and lakes (p290).
one of London’s most
desirable residential
areas. Its mansions
and town houses
are perfectly
maintained, and
a stroll through
Hampstead’s narrow
streets is one of London’s
LO
quieter pleasures.
WE
R
TE HE
Whitestone Pond takes its AT
R
H
RA
name from the old white H

A
CE
milestone nearby. M
P
ST
E
A
D
Admiral’s House dates from

G
about 1700. Built for a sea

R
O
R R
E
R PE
VE
captain, its name derives from

AC
TE UP
its external maritime motifs. No

admiral ever actually lived in it.
K
AL
W
’
S
AL
IR
M
Grove Lodge was

AD
home to novelist John

Galsworthy (1867–1933),
author of The Forsyte Saga,
for the last 15 years of his life.
Summer visitors should seek

out the late 17th-century
Fenton House and its
exquisite walled garden,
which are well hidden
in the jumble of streets
near the heath (p293).
Stunning views
of the city from
0 metres 100
a hillside on N
Hampstead Heath 0 yards 100
296
HAMPSTEAD
AND HIGHGATE
Locator Map
Browsing the characterful

shops on Flask Walk
No 40 Well Walk
is where artist John
Constable lived
K
WAL
while working on his
many Hampstead
CHRIST CHURCH HILL
pictures (p293).
WELL
AC ON
E
PL NN
CA
E D
AR A
U STE
S QM P
NEW END SQUARE

HA
Built in 1702 but much

W altered since, Burgh House
NE
EN
contains an intriguing
D
local history museum

and a café overlooking
the small garden (p293).
E
ST R E AT L E Y P L AC
ALK
FLASK W
S
R
T
E
E
T Flask Walk is an alley
of charming specialist
shops that broadens
START into a residential village
BACK L street (p293).
ANE
HOL
LY H
ILL Hampstead station
HAMPSTEAD HIGH ST
The Everyman Cinema

has been an arthouse
cinema since 1933.
FINISH
W
O The tall houses on Church Row are rich in
R
original detail. Notice the superb ironwork
on what is probably London’s finest
Georgian street (p294).
H
C
R
U 297
H
C
Looking over maritime Greenwich and towards Canary Wharf
GREENWICH AND
CANARY WHARF
In the mid-15th century, Henry IV’s son Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester and the brother of Henry V,
first established the royal foothold in Greenwich
when he built himself the Palace of Placentia,
originally known as Bella Court. Henry VIII was
born in the palace, as were his daughters, Mary
and Elizabeth. The palace was demolished at the
end of the 17th century and the land where it
stood is now occupied by the Old Royal Naval
College; the royal hunting grounds are now the
gorgeous Greenwich Park. The buildings of the
Naval College, the centrepiece of the UNESCO
World Heritage Site referred to as Maritime
Greenwich, started life as Greenwich Hospital,
a home for wounded and retired sailors opened
in 1692. The conversion to a Royal Navy college
in 1873 cemented an already well-established
maritime heritage in Greenwich, one shared by
Canary Wharf over the river, the site of the historic
docklands since the early 19th century.
299
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GREENWICH
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CANARY CANARY
WHARF WHARF
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FOOT TUN
Th Th
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Pier Pier
PA
Foot Tunnel
Foot Tunnel
Old RoyalOld Royal

Naval College
Naval Colleg
Tunnel Tunnel
entranceentrance
Cutty Cutty
Sark Sark
THAMES T H ASMTERSE E T STREET W E L L A N D SWTE L L A N D S T

HORSEFERRY
HORSEFERRY
AD
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N O R WA Y S T
Cutty SarkCutty Sark A

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GREENWICH AND CANARY WHARF

Experience 0 The O2 Arena
1 Cutty Sark q Emirates Air Line
2 National Maritime Museum w Museum of London Docklands
3 Greenwich Park e Canary Wharf
4 Royal Observatory
Eat & Shop
5 The Queen’s House
1 Greenwich Market
6 Old Royal Naval College
7 Ranger’s House – the Drink
Wernher Collection
2 Trafalgar Tavern
8 Greenwich Foot Tunnel
9 The Fan Museum
Royal Royal
AroundAround
Greenwich
Greenwich Victoria Victoria
East
Prince Prince East
Museum Museum
of of India India Royal
Regent Regent Royal
London Docklands
London Docklands Albert Albert
The 02 The 02
Arena Arena
Canary Canary EmiratesEmirates
Wharf Wharf London London
Canary Canary Air Line Air Line Pontoon City Airport
Pontoon City Airport
Wharf North
Wharf North Dock Dock
GreenwichGreenwich
Thames Thames
River
River
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Crossharbour
Crossharbour
MILLWALL
MILLWALL
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AV AV Royal Observatory
Royal Observatory
EN EN
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Centre Centre
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OTE HOO 0 metres 0 metres 200 N 200 N
SHO S
EXPERIENCE Greenwich and Canary Wharf
The structure holding

the copper hull of the
impressive Cutty Sark
EXPERIENCE
work, which suffered a major
1"-= setback in May 2007 when the 2'-=
Cutty Sark ship was severely damaged by National Maritime
fire. It was reopened by the Museum
 N9 ⌂ King William Walk
Queen in 2012, fully restored
SE10 1 Cutty Sark DLR  N9 ⌂ Romney Rd
and slightly raised in a glass
4 Greenwich Pier # 10am– SE10 1 Cutty Sark DLR
enclosure. Visitors can explore
5pm daily (mid-Jul–Aug: to 3 Greenwich # 10am–
the cargo decks and sleeping
6pm; last adm: 45 mins 5pm daily ¢ 24–26 Dec
quarters below deck, take
before closing) ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ rmg.co.uk
the ship’s wheel, and be
∑ rmg.co.uk
entertained by tales from This substantial museum,
This majestic vessel is a the costumed “crew”. There which was built in the 19th
survivor of the clippers that are interactive displays on century as a school for sailors’
crossed the Atlantic and Pacific navigation and life on board. children, celebrates Britain’s
oceans in the 19th century.
Launched in 1869 as a tea
carrier, it was something of
a speed machine in its day,
returning from Australia in
1884 in just 83 days – 25 days
faster than any other ship. It
made its final voyage in 1938
and was put on display here in
1957. In 2006 the Cutty Sark was
closed to visitors for renovation
Portrait of a young
Nelson, National
Maritime Museum
302
3-
Greenwich Park
 010 ⌂ SE10 1 Cutty
Sark DLR, Greenwich
EAT &
DLR 3 Greenwich,
Maze Hill, Blackheath SHOP
# 6am–6pm or dusk
Greenwich Market
A historic covered
Originally the grounds of a market with over 100
royal palace and still a Royal stalls. It’s particularly
Park, Greenwich Park was strong on arts and
enclosed in 1433 and its crafts, and vintage and
brick wall built in the reign antique items, but
of James I. Later in the 17th kooky clothes and
century, the French royal accessories and food
landscape gardener André Le stalls feature too.
Nôtre was invited to redesign  N9 ⌂ Greenwich
the park. The broad Avenue, Church St SE10
rising south up the hill, was ∑ greenwich
part of his plan. It’s a steep market.london
climb up the hilltop but one
well rewarded by sweeping
views across London and
more green space to explore.
The stately original building,
Flamsteed House, was
seafaring heritage, from early designed by Christopher Wren
British trade through its emer 4"'-= for the first Astronomer Royal,
gence as a leading maritime Royal Observatory John Flamsteed. It contains
nation to the expeditions of original instruments belonging
 O10 ⌂ Greenwich Park
Captain Cook, and from the to his successors, including
SE10 1 Cutty Sark DLR
Napoleonic Wars through to Edmond Halley, as well as the
3 Greenwich # 10am–5pm
the modern day. Unveiled in celebrated sea clocks of John
daily (mid-May–Jun: to
2018, its superb East Wing Harrison, including the H4 –
5:30pm; Jul & Aug: to 6pm)
galleries support an impressive arguably the most important
¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ rmg.co.uk
array of historical objects. timepiece ever made. There
In the Tudor and Stuarts The prime meridian (0° longi is also a stateoftheart
Seafarers gallery, theatrical tude) that divides Earth’s planetarium here, the only
trickery brings a recreation of eastern and western hemi one in London. An entry fee is
the Deptford royal dockyard spheres passes through here, charged for Flamsteed House
from 1690 to life, while the and millions of visitors come and the planetarium shows;
Polar Worlds section draws to be photographed standing access to the Astronomy
together artifacts from the with a foot on either side of it. Centre is free.
quests of Shackleton and In 1884, Greenwich Mean
Scott in the Arctic and Antarctic. Time became the basis of
In the Nelson, Navy, Nation time measurement for most
gallery, the star exhibit is the of the world. Here you can
uniform that Lord Horatio journey through the history
Nelson was wearing when he of time, explore how scientists
was shot at the Battle of first began to map the stars
Trafalgar in October 1805. and see worldchanging
Rather more spectacular is inventions, including the UK’s
the royal barge built for Prince largest refracting telescope.
Frederick in 1732, decorated Visitors can even touch a 4.5
with gilded mermaids and his billionyearold asteroid.
Prince of Wales feathers on
the stern. Throughout the
museum there are numerous
activities for children, such as The onion dome of the Royal
navigating a ship around the Observatory Greenwich,
world on a huge floor map. housing a colossal telescope
303
5'
These ambitious buildings by Christopher
The Queen’s House Wren were built on the site of the old 15th-
century royal palace, where Henry VIII,
 O9 ⌂ Romney Rd SE10
Mary I and Elizabeth I were born.
1 Cutty Sark DLR 3 Green
wich # 10am–5pm daily
¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ rmg.co.uk
fresco that dates from the the hospital was acquired
The Queen’s House was room’s earliest incarnation as by the Naval College in
EXPERIENCE G reenwich and Canary Wharf
designed by Inigo Jones and Henrietta Maria’s bedchamber. Portsmouth and remained a
completed in 1637. It was training post for officers until
originally intended to be the 1997. It also trained thousands
home of Anne of Denmark, of Wrens during World War II.
wife of James I, but she died 6"'\-= The Painted Hall is the
while it was still being built and Old Royal highlight of a visit. Originally
it was finished for Charles I’s Naval College intended as a dining room
queen consort, Henrietta Maria. for the retired seamen, it was
 N9 ⌂ King William Walk
Period highlights of the opulently decorated by Sir
SE10 1 Cutty Sark DLR,
bare interior include the square James Thornhill in the early
Greenwich DLR 3 Green
Great Hall, enlivened by Turner 18th century with allegorical
wich, Maze Hill # 10am–
Prize-winner Richard Wright’s scenes. The tremendous ceiling
5pm daily; grounds: 8am–
gold-leaf ceiling, added in 2016, mural, sometimes dubbed
11pm daily ¢ 24–26 Dec,
and the spiral cantilevered Britain’s Sistine Chapel, is the
some early closures for
“tulip staircase”, which curves largest figurative painting in
events ∑ ornc.org
sinuously upwards without a the country. In 1805, the hall
central support. The main A landmark of Greenwich, was the location of a lavish
focus of interest, though, is these ambitious buildings by lying-in-state ceremony for
the superb art collection of Christopher Wren were built on Lord Horatio Nelson, who was
the National Maritime Museum, the site of the old 15th-century killed at the Battle of Trafalgar.
including works by Turner, royal palace, where Tudors The hall reopened in 2019
Canaletto and Lowry. The Henry VIII, Mary I and Elizabeth following an extensive
famous Armada Portrait of I were born, to house naval conservation project, which
Elizabeth I is on display in the pensioners. At its peak, the rejuvenated the paintings’
Queen’s Presence Chamber, then hospital was home to lavish colours, now illuminated
beneath an opulent ceiling some 2,700 veterans. In 1873, with state-of-the-art lighting.
One of Wren’s twin

buildings that form the
Old Royal Naval College
304
Statue by Bergonzoli and
Chinese-themed tapestries
at the Ranger’s House
The renovation also restored

the vaulted King William
Undercroft to something close
to its original Baroque splen
dour. Tickets include a multi
media guide and expert talks,
as well as guided walking
tours of the college grounds.
Housed in the east wing,
Wren’s Chapel was destroyed
by fire in 1779 and its interior
was redesigned in Greek
Revival style with decorative
detailing by James Stuart. 8
200,000
There is a pub next to the Greenwich
visitor centre with a terrace Foot Tunnel
overlooking the Cutty Sark, but
 N9 ⌂ Between Greenwich White glazed tiles
visitors are also welcome to
Pier SE10 and Isle of Dogs were needed to line
picnic in the grounds.
E14 1 Island Gardens, the Greenwich
Cutty Sark DLR 4 Green- Foot Tunnel.
wich Pier # 24hrs daily
7"œ This 370m (1,200ft) long
Ranger’s House – the tunnel was opened in 1902 to
Wernher Collection allow south London labourers on either side of the river. Both
to walk to work in Millwall ends of the tunnel are close
 O11 ⌂ Chesterfield
Docks. It is well worth making to stations on the Docklands
Walk, Greenwich Park
the crossing from Greenwich Light Railway (DLR). Although
SE10 1 Cutty Sark DLR
for the wonderful views, once there are security cameras, the
3 Blackheath # Apr–Oct:
above ground, back across the tunnel can be eerie at night.
11am–5pm Sun–Thu
river, of Christopher Wren’s
∑ english-heritage.org.uk
Royal Naval College and of
The Wernher Collection is Inigo Jones’s Queen’s House.
located in the Ranger’s House Matching round redbrick 9"-=
(1688), an elegant building terminals, with glass domes, The Fan Museum
southwest of Greenwich Park mark the top of the lift shafts
 N10 ⌂ 12 Crooms
(p303). It is an enchanting array
Hill SE10 3 Greenwich
of over 700 pieces accumu
# 11am–5pm Tue–Sat,
lated by Sir Julius Wernher, who
noon–5pm Sun ¢ Jan, Yom
made a fortune from South
African mines, in the late 19th
century and developed a DRINK Kippur, 24–26 Dec ∑ thefan
museum.org.uk
passion for collecting mostly Trafalgar Tavern

This unusual museum owes its
medieval and Renaissance art. A Victorian pub where
appeal to the enthusiasm of
The collection is displayed visitors flock in their
Hélène Alexander, whose
across 11 rooms and includes hundreds. Images of
personal collection of fans has
paintings, jewellery, tapestries, the area’s maritime
been augmented by donations;
furniture and porcelain. High heritage, including
the museum’s collection now
lights include Renaissance Horatio Nelson, are
numbers over 5,000 from the
masterworks by Hans Memling scattered about.
12th century onwards. A small
and Filippo Lippi, over 100 permanent exhibition looks at
Renaissance jewels, an opal  O8 ⌂ Park Row SE10 types of fans and fanmaking,
set lizard pendant jewel and a ∑ trafalgartavern.
while the collection is rotated
co.uk
fantastic sculpture of a woman in temporary displays. On
and angel by 19thcentury some days, afternoon tea is
artist Giulio Bergonzoli. served in the orangery.
305
a magnificent way to cross the

10 \ - = 11 " river, providing spectacular
The O2 Arena Emirates Air Line views during the five-minute
trip. Travelcards and Oyster
 O8 ⌂ North Greenwich  O8 ⌂ Western Gateway
cards provide a 25 per cent
SE10 1 North Greenwich E16/Edmund Halley Way
discount. In the evenings the
4 North Greenwich Pier SE10 1 Royal Victoria
“flights” slow down, giving you
# 9am–1am ∑ theo2.co.uk DLR, North Greenwich
more time to enjoy the pano-
# 7am–10pm Mon–Fri,
The former Millennium Dome rama of city lights.
8am–10pm Sat, 9am–10pm
was the focal point of Britain’s
Sun (Oct–Mar: to 9pm
celebration of the year 2000.
Sun–Thu) ∑ emirates
Controversial from its earliest
days, it is nonetheless an
airline.co.uk 12 \ - =
amazing feat of engineering. Its This cable car, crossing the Museum of London
canopy is made from 100,000 Thames between the Royal Docklands
sq m (109,000 sq yards) of Victoria Dock and the O2, is
 O8 ⌂ No 1 Warehouse,
Teflon-coated spun glass-fibre,
West India Quay E14
and is supported by over 70 km
1 Canary Wharf, Westferry
(43 miles) of steel cable rigged
# 10am–6pm daily
to a dozen 100-m (328-ft)
masts. Now London’s largest Did You Know? ∑ museumoflondon.org.uk/
museum-london-docklands
indoor concert venue, the O2 Sponsored by airline
also has bars, restaurants, a Emirates, the construction Occupying a late Georgian
cinema and Indigo at The O2, a of the cable car cost warehouse, this museum tells
smaller venue. You can also don a whopping the story of London’s docks
climbing gear and ascend the £60 million. and their links from Roman
outside along a long, bouncy times to the present. A
walkway to the very top. highlight is the re-creation
306
of the dark and dangerous The Emirates
“Sailortown” of Wapping cable car and the
in the 1850s. O2 Arena – the roof
of which can be
climbed (inset)
13 \ - =
Canary Wharf
THE THAMES BARRIER
 O8 ⌂ E14 1 Canary
Wharf, West India Quay DLR In 1236, the Thames rose
so high that people rowed
Home to many of London’s across Westminster Hall;
tallest skyscrapers, this ambi London flooded again in
tious commercial development 1663, 1928 and in 1953.
opened in 1991, when the first Something had to be done,
tenants moved into One and in 1984 the Thames
Canada Square. At 235 m (770 Barrier, 520 m (1,700 ft)
ft), it is still a dominant feature across, was unveiled. Its
of the city’s eastern skyline 10 gates swing up to 1.6 m
with its pyramidshaped top. (6 ft) above the level
The tower stands on what was reached by the tide in
the West India Dock, closed, like 1953, and have been used
all the London docks, between over 190 times. Some boat
the 1960s and the 1980s, when tours go to the barrier,
trade moved to Tilbury. Today, and there’s also a small
Canary Wharf is thriving, with visitor centre.
a major shopping complex,
cafés and restaurants.
307
A SHORT WALK
GREENWICH
Nearest Tube Cutty Sark DLR
Maritime Greenwich, with its illustrious royal and naval

connections, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In Tudor
times it was the site of a palace enjoyed by Henry VIII,
near a fine hunting ground. The old palace is gone, but
your walk will take you past Inigo Jones’s exquisite
Queen’s House, completed for Charles I’s queen consort.
The route also takes in the superb National Maritime
Museum and Wren’s glorious Royal Naval College,
making this an enjoyable short stroll.
START
Greenwich Pier is a boarding
point for boats to Westminster, the
O2 and the Thames Barrier.
Greenwich Foot Tunnel (p305)

is one of two remaining tunnels
under the Thames that were built
solely for pedestrians.
E
EG H
LL AC
KI
Clipper ships such as the O

C R O
NG
Cutty Sark (p302) once P

AP
traded across the oceans.
WI
LL
IA
N
WA
GRE
LK
EN
Greenwich Market, in the

W
AD
IC
heart of Greenwich, sells crafts, RO

H
antiques and books (p303). N

SO
CH
EL
U
N
RC
H S
TREET
Did You Know?

ST
The Old Royal Naval There has been a church on

O
College had a starring

CK
the spot on which St Alfege W

EL
role in Marvel’s Thor: Church stands since 1012. L
The Dark World. ST DA
RE VA T
ET NE E
E
STR
308
GREENWICH
AND CANARY
WHARF
Locator Map
Cutty Sark, impressively For more detail see p300
restored and raised to
allow visitors to explore
above and below deck
George II
Statue
The Old Royal Naval College

(p304), a stately structure by
Wren, was built in four parts so
that the Queen’s House could keep
its river view.
The Painted Hall

contains 18th-century
murals by Sir James
Thornhill, who painted
FINISH
the interior of the dome
of St Paul’s Cathedral.
AD
RO
Y
M NE
RO
The stunning ceiling of

the Painted Hall at the
Old Royal Naval College
in Greenwich
On his return from Italy, the

Queen’s House (p304) was
the first building Inigo Jones
designed in the Palladian style.
Real and model boats,

digital displays and instru-
ments like an 18th-century
compass illustrate naval
history at the National
Maritime Museum (p302).
0 metres 100 N
0 yards 100
309
A deer in Richmond Park
Must Sees
1 Queen Elizabeth
Olympic Park
2 Hampton Court
3 Kew Gardens
4 Warner Bros. Studio Tour:
The Making of Harry Potter
Experience More
5 BAPS Shri Swaminarayan
Mandir
6 Victoria Park
7 Alexandra Palace
8 William Morris Gallery
9 Charlton House
0 Sutton House
q Eltham Palace
w Horniman Museum
e Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Museum
r Wimbledon Windmill
Museum
t Dulwich Picture Gallery
y Dulwich Park
u Brixton
i Ham House
o Orleans House Gallery
p Marble Hill House
a Richmond
s Richmond Park
d Syon House
f Musical Museum
g Osterley Park and House
h Pitzhanger Manor House
and Gallery
j London Museum of Water
& Steam
k Fulham Palace
l Chiswick House
z Hogarth’s House
BEYOND
THE CENTRE
London’s high and mighty once sought refuge
from the city in their country manor houses,
located a short distance away from the centre.
Consumed by the rapid expansion of the Victorian
era, these stately homes and royal estates became
intertwined with sprawling suburbs, leading
to the boroughs of today. Postwar immigration
contributed to the identity of each of London’s
neighbourhoods – from the West Indian
population in Brixton to the Hindu community
in Neasden – and their local characters continue
to evolve as the regeneration of the city and
gentrification push ever further outwards.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour

13 km (8 miles)
William Morris
Alexandra TOTTENHAM Gallery
Palace
HARROW WALTHAMSTOW
HIGHGATE
HACKNEY
HAMPSTEAD Sutton
WEMBLEY House STRATFORD
NORTHOLT BAPS Shri Queen Elizabeth
Swaminarayan Mandir Victoria Olympic Park
Park
Pitzhanger Manor WILLESDEN BOW WEST
House and Gallery HAM
CENTRAL Tha
ACTON me s
Osterley EALING LONDON
Park and London Museum of
Musical
House Water & Steam DOCKLANDS
Museum
Hogarth’s House KENNINGTON CHARLTON
BRENTFORD
Chiswick House GREENWICH
Syon House Kew Brixton Charlton
Fulham Palace
Gardens House
PECKHAM
TWICKENHAM PUTNEY CLAPHAM
Richmond ELTHAM
Orleans Dulwich Park
Marble Hill House Dulwich Picture
House Gallery Gallery
Ham House Wimbledon Horniman Eltham
Lawn Tennis Museum Museum Palace
HAM Richmond DULWICH
Park Wimbledon
Windmill CATFORD
Museum STREATHAM CRYSTAL
PALACE
Hampton WIMBLEDON
Court KINGSTON N
0 kilometres 5
es
Th am MITCHAM
0 miles 5
311
1'\-
QUEEN ELIZABETH
OLYMPIC PARK
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre
⌂ E20 1 Hackney Wick, Stratford, Pudding Mill Lane 3 Stratford

International @ 308, 339, 388, 108 # 24 hrs daily; information point
10am–3pm daily ∑ queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk
Home of the 2012 London Olympic Games, this east London

site has been transformed from an area of industrial wasteland
into a verdant park with top-quality sporting venues.
As the only city to have hosted the Olympic Games three times
– in 1908, 1948 and 2012 – London is justifiably proud of its 1"-
place in Olympic history. The main site for the 2012 Olympics Lee Valley VeloPark
and Paralympics was a 225-hectare (560-acre) area of former
industrial land stretching along the River Lea in east London.
8am–10pm Sat, 8am–9pm
The main attractions today are immediately familiar to anyone
Sun; book taster sessions
who watched the events: a series of large, functional but striking
online in advance
venues dotted amid meandering waterways and surrounded
∑ visitleevalley.org.uk
by quintessentially English wildflower gardens cut through by
various trails. Renamed the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to The Velodrome is the hub of
commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012, the site a large cycling activity centre,
has been transformed into a permanent leisure attraction. with BMX and road tracks, and
There is plenty to see and do, particularly if you catch one of the mountain-bike trails. Visitors
numerous events hosted here or want to try out some sports. can book taster sessions.
East Village, originally the Athlete’s Village, and the former
media hub, Here East, are home to restaurants and cafés.
2"-
1 The 6,000-seat velodrome London Aquatics
is an iconic building in the
Centre
Olympic Park and contains
the fastest cycling track in # 6am–10pm daily (to 5pm
the world. Sat & Sun); check online for
2 The pools at the London swim sessions and events
Aquatics Centre lie beneath ∑ londonaquaticscentre.org
the curving roof of this
attractive building. The late architect Zaha Hadid
was inspired by the flow
3 Visible from all over of water for her sweeping
the Olympic Park, the
design for the Aquatics
ArcelorMittal Orbit tower
gives visitors great views.
Centre. Everyone can swim
1 in the competition and
training pools here.
3"-=
ArcelorMittal Orbit
10am–7pm Sat & Sun
∑ arcelormittalorbit.com
Designed by artist Anish

Kapoor, the twisting steel
tower is part sculpture, part
viewing platform, with a
2 3 thrilling 178-m (580-ft) slide.
312
Must See
INSIDER TIP
From the Water
To see the best of the
park, take a 45-minute
guided boat tour (Apr–Oct,
check www.leeandstort
boats.co.uk for details).
The centrepiece stadium,

set amid lush meadow land Originally the Athlete’s
and waterways Village, East Village offers
places to eat and drink.
Mountain
Lee Valley Hockey bike trails
and Tennis Centre
Wetlands
area
Underpass to Stratford
International station
Canalside at Here
East is home to
cafés, bars and
restaurants.
The Copper Box

Arena is an indoor
sports arena.
The London Stadium

hosts sporting and
music events, and is
the home of West
Ham United FC.
The vast and varied

Queen Elizabeth
Olympic Park
313
2"'\-=
HAMPTON COURT
⌂ East Molesey, Surrey 3 Hampton Court g Hampton Court pier (summer
only) # Times vary, check website ¢ 24–26 Dec ∑ hrp.org.uk
With its impressively preserved palace, beautifully manicured

gardens and location on the River Thames, the former stomping
ground of Tudor king Henry VIII makes for an irresistible attraction.
Glorious Hampton Court began life in 1514 as the
riverside country house of Cardinal Wolsey,
Henry VIII’s Archbishop of York. Later, in 1528, in
the hope of retaining royal favour, Wolsey offered
it to the king. Hampton Court was twice rebuilt
and extended, first by Henry himself and then, in
the 1690s, by King William and Queen Mary, who
employed Christopher Wren as architect. There is
a striking contrast between Wren’s Classical royal
apartments and the Tudor turrets, gables and
chimneys elsewhere. The inspiration for the
gardens comes largely from the time of William
and Mary, who created a vast, formal Baroque
landscape, with avenues and exotic plants.
FLOWER SHOW
The world’s biggest flower show takes place
each year at Hampton Court in July. Displays
are on either side of Long Water and focus
on environmental issues and growing your
own food. Book tickets at rhs.org.uk. The sunken Pond Gardens,
once ponds that stored fish
for Henry VIII’s table
314
Must See
Spectacular Hampton
Court, seen from the
Privy Garden
An example of the formal

and ordered style of the
palace gardens
Fresh produce from the

Kitchen Garden, sold to
visitors once a week
1528 1647 1734 1992

Timeline
▲ Wolsey gives the ▲ Charles I imprisoned ▲ William Kent ▲ State apartments
palace to Henry VIII to by Oliver Cromwell. decorates the damaged by a fire in

try to keep favour with Queen’s Staircase. 1986 are reopened.
the king.
315
Exploring the Palace
As a historic royal palace, Hampton Court
bears traces of many of the kings and queens
of England from Henry VIII to the present day. Did You Know?
The building itself is a harmonious blend of
Tudor and English Baroque architecture. Inside, Real tennis, the
visitors can see the Great Hall, built by Henry forerunner of the modern
VIII, as well as the state apartments of the Tudor game, is still played at
court. Many of the Baroque state apartments, Hampton Court.
including those above Fountain Court, are

decorated with furniture, tapestries and old
masters from the Royal Collection.
The Tudor Chapel

Royal, refitted by
Wren, except
for the gilded
vaulted ceiling.
Queen’s Guard
Chamber
The ghost of
Catherine Howard is
said to run through
the Haunted Gallery
Hung with tapestries

2 beneath a hammer-
beam roof, the
Tudor Great Hall is
sumptuously decorated.
3
1 The Tudor kitchen prepared up to 1,000
meals a day for the court, which often
included dishes of fresh game, lamb, venison
and swan – at a time when most people only
ever ate preserved meat.
2 The King’s Staircase has wall paintings
by William Kent, re-creating the court of
George I with real people of the time.
3 The Great Hall was used as a banqueting The vast Hampton
room and a theatre – William Shakespeare’s Court with its mix of
King’s Men performed here for James I over Tudor and English
Christmas and New Year in 1603–4. Baroque architecture
316
Must See
CARDINAL WOLSEY
Thomas Wolsey (c 1475–1530), who was
simultaneously a cardinal, Archbishop of
York and Lord Chancellor, was, after the
king, the most powerful man in England.
However, when he was unable to persuade
the pope to allow Henry VIII to divorce his
first wife, Catherine of Aragon, Wolsey fell
from royal favour. He died while making his
way to face trial for treason.
Fountain Court
Wren’s overlooked by
Queen’s east Queen’s Gallery
the state with a marble
Presence façade King’s Great
apartments chimneypiece
Chamber Bed Chamber
An astronomical clock The grand King’s Staircase leads

is atop the entrance up to the state apartments
to Clock Court
317
Immaculately manicured
flowerbeds in front of the
iconic Palm House
3"'\-=
KEW GARDENS
⌂ Royal Botanic Gardens, Richmond 1Kew Gardens 3 Kew Bridge # Gardens:
from 10am daily (closing times vary, check website); Kew Palace & Great Pagoda:
Apr–Sep 10:30am–5:30pm daily; Queen Charlotte’s Cottage: Apr–Sep: 11am–4pm
Sat, Sun & public hols ¢ 24–25 Dec ∑ kew.org; hrp.org.uk
The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, are a

World Heritage Site. Given to the nation
in 1841, they display about 30,000 plants.
Kew’s reputation was first established by
the British naturalist and plant hunter, Sir
Joseph Banks, who worked here in the late
18th century. The former royal gardens were
created by Princess Augusta, the mother of
George III, on the 3.6 ha (9-acre) site in 1759.
The world’s largest Victorian-era glasshouse,
the magnificent Temperate House showcases
over 1,500 rare or endangered plant species
from across the globe. The Palm House,
designed by Decimus Burton in the 1840s, Fine views from up in the canopy
houses exotic plants in tropical conditions. on the Treetop Walkway
318
HIDDEN GEM
Hive of Activity
An unusual construction
set in a wildflower
meadow, The Hive gives
visitors a multi-sensory
experience of life
inside a beehive.
The 1762 Great

Pagoda, standing
almost 50 m
(164 ft) high
Queen Charlotte’s
Cottage Map of Kew Gardens
showing the main sights
Waterlily Pond
River Thames and places to visit
Sackler
Crossing Minka
House Azalea Garden
Treetop
Walkway
Brentford Gate
entrance
Kew Palace
Nash
Conservatory
Elizabeth
Gate
entrance
Duke’s Garden
Great Pagoda King Victoria Palm
William’s Gate House
Lion Gate Temperate Temple entrance Princess of Wales
Entrance House Conservatory
319
4"'\-=
WARNER BROS. STUDIO

TOUR: THE MAKING
OF HARRY POTTER
⌂ Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden 3 Watford Junction (shuttle buses run from the station
every 20 mins) # 9:30am–8pm Mon–Fri (final tour begins 4pm), 8:30am–10pm Sat, Sun &
school holidays (final tour begins 6:30pm) ¢ 25 & 26 Dec ∑ wbstudiotour.co.uk
Walk the streets of Diagon Alley, enjoy a frothing glass of Butterbeer and admire
the animatronics behind your favourite characters – this behind-the-scenes and
in-the-scenes tour is an absolute must for budding wizards and witches.
Housed in a building adjacent to the studios

where all eight of the Harry Potter films were
created, the Making of Harry Potter tour brings
you up close to the original sets, props, models
and costumes used in the world-famous films.
Visitors can wander into the imposing Great
Hall at Hogwarts, walk up Diagon Alley, sneak
into Dumbledore’s office, explore the
The front entrance of the

Warner Bros. Studio Tour:
The Making of Harry Potter
The set of Platform 9¾,

departure point for the
Hogwarts Express
Did You Know?

The Harry Potter novels
have sold more than
500 million copies, in
80 languages.
Must See
Diagon Alley,
home to the
wand shop
Ollivanders
and Weasley’s
Wizard Wheezes
Forbidden Forest and admire the Hogwarts

Express locomotive at Platform 9¾. Just as
impressive as the real-life sets is the huge,
jaw-droppingly detailed scale model of
Hogwarts School, used for the exterior
shots in the films.
There’s much more to marvel at throughout
the tour, from costumes for the students at
Beauxbatons Academy and the Yule Ball to
Harry’s broomstick and Hagrid’s motorcycle,
as well as animatronic creatures, including
Buckbeak, a 6-m- (20-ft-) wide Aragog and a
full-size Basilisk head. Secrets of the special
and visual effects departments reveal how
the Invisibility Cloak works and what role the
green screen played. As you might expect, The office of Albus Dumbledore,
the three shops on site offer a huge range first created for Harry Potter and
of take-home souvenirs. the Chamber of Secrets
EAT
The Food Hall
Enjoy classic British
fare at this quite basic
canteen. Breakfast is
well catered for, with
the Full English setting
you up for the day. At
lunch, tuck into hot or
cold meals – soups,
salads, burgers
and the like.
]]]
Backlot Café
This is the place to stop
for Butterbeer, whether
as a drink or an ice
cream. There is hot food
available here too.
]]]
321
EXPERIENCE MORE
of the shrines to the deities
5"'= close-up. The Haveli, the
BAPS Shri cultural education centre,
Swaminarayan features yet more beautiful
Mandir carving, this time in Burmese
teak and English oak.

⌂ 105–119 Brentfield Rd
Leave any large bags at the
NW10 1 Harlesden
baggage cabin in the car park,
then bus 206 or 224 (or
dress modestly (with your
Stonebridge Park and bus
shoulders, upper arms and
112) # Daily; Mandir and
knees covered) and leave your
Haveli: 9am–6pm; Deities:
shoes in the cloakroom before
9–11am, 11:45am–12:15pm
you enter the main building.
& 4–6pm (to 5pm Sat)
∑ londonmandir.baps.org
Right out in northwest

London, not far from 6-
Wembley Stadium, stands Victoria Park
one of the most incongruous
– and beautiful – religious
⌂ Grove Rd E3 1 Mile 7"\-
End 3 Hackney Wick,
buildings in the city, often Alexandra Palace
Cambridge Heath
known simply as the Neasden
@ 277, 425 # 7am–dusk ⌂ Alexandra Palace
Temple. The intricately carved
∑ towerhamlets.gov.uk Way N22 3 Alexandra
Hindu temple was completed
Palace 1 Wood Green
in 1995, after a small army of Victoria Park opened in 1845
then bus W3 # Daily
volunteers from the local as London’s first public park,
∑ alexandrapalace.com
community banded together and is now part of the largest
to raise funds and build it. belt of green space in the East Built as the People’s Palace
Thousands of tonnes of End. The venue for many polit- in 1873, Alexandra Palace has
Bulgarian limestone and ical rallies in the 19th century a slightly chequered history –
Italian Carrara marble were and beyond, it became known it has burned down twice,
shipped to India to be carved, as the “People’s Park” and once just 16 days after it
then assembled on site like a remains hugely popular. There opened, and again in 1980.
giant jigsaw. The result is a are boats for hire on one of its From 1936 until 1956 the
staggeringly detailed, two lakes, and gardens, cafés, BBC’s television studios were
intricately carved temple. playgrounds, splash pools, housed at Alexandra Palace,
When the Mandir’s inner tennis courts and a skate park. and in 1936 the first television
sanctum is not closed for Footpaths along the Hertford transmission took place from
prayer, you can inspect some Union and Regent’s canals hug here. Affectionately known as
two of its sides, linking up with Ally Pally, the large, ornate
the River Lea on its journey Victorian halls now host a
around the Olympic Park. wide variety of events, from
DRINK
Crate Brewery
This canalside brewery
is the place to go to
sample the east London
hipster scene: post-
industrial styling and
great craft beer.
⌂ Queens Yard,
Hackney Wick E9
∑ cratebrewery.com
322
trade and antiques fairs to by William De Morgan
large-scale concerts. Set in and paintings by
parkland, the building sits members of the Pre-
majestically exposed on a hill, Raphaelite Brotherhood.
so the views are spectacular, Interactive exhibits
and it’s a good spot for introduce visitors to
fireworks and funfairs (the techniques such as hand-
website has details of events). printing and dyeing. There are
There’s a permanent ice rink regular special exhibitions,
and the grounds have a pitch- workshops and lectures. The exquisite, and
and-putt golf course, a boating intricately detailed
lake and playgrounds. (inset), BAPS Shri
Swaminarayan Mandir
9\-
Charlton House
8-=
William Morris Gallery ⌂ Charlton Rd SE7 0"'-=ø
3 Charlton # 9am–10pm
Sutton House
⌂ Lloyd Park, Forest Rd E17 Mon-Fri, 9am–5pm Sat
1 Walthamstow Central ¢ Public hols ∑ greenwich- ⌂ 2–4 Homerton High St
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun heritage.org/visit/ E9 1 Bethnal Green then
¢ 25 & 26 Dec, 1 Jan charlton-house bus 253 # Selected dates
∑ wmgallery.org.uk noon–4:30pm Wed–Sun;
Completed in 1612 for Adam
check website ∑ national
The most influential designer Newton, tutor to Prince Henry,
trust.org.uk
of the Victorian era, born in Charlton House is the best-
1834, lived in this 18th-century preserved Jacobean mansion One of the very few Tudor
house as a young man. It is in London. It is now used as a merchants’ houses in London
now a beguiling and well- community centre, but many to have survived in something
presented museum giving a of the original ceilings and like its original form, Sutton
full account of William Morris fireplaces survive, as does the House was built in 1535 for
the artist, designer, writer, carved main staircase and Ralph Sadleir, a courtier to
craftsman and socialist. It has parts of the wood panelling. Henry VIII. Though the front
examples of his work and that Other ceilings have been was altered in the 18th century,
of other members of the Arts restored using the original the Tudor fabric remains
and Crafts movement – tiles moulds. The house has walled surprisingly intact, including
gardens and the grounds con- brickwork, fireplaces and
tain a summer house reputedly wood panelling. The house
designed by architect Inigo has spent time as a school
Victoria Park, part of a 3 km Jones, and a mulberry tree and an anarcho-punk squat,
(1.5-mile) band of green space said to have been planted a history that is explored on
that opens up east London by James I in 1608. regular tours (book ahead).
323
nature trails and a sunken
garden as well as a Butterfly
House (for a fee) and Animal
Walk, a small petting zoo.
13 " ' - =
Wimbledon Lawn
Tennis Museum
⌂ Church Rd SW19
1 Southfields # 10am-
5:30pm daily (winter: to
5pm) ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26 Dec
∑ wimbledon.com
Even those with only a passing

interest in tennis will find plenty
to enjoy here. The museum
explores tennis’s development
from its early incarnation in the
1860s as a diversion for country
house parties to the sport it is
today. Equipment and tennis
fashion from the Victorian
era are on display and visitors
can watch clips and recent
The clock tower of the matches in the video theatre.
Horniman Museum, designed It’s advisable to book ahead
in Arts and Crafts style to take one of the tours, which
include a visit to Centre Court.
grounds are particularly lovely,

11 " - = œ especially the carp-filled moat
Eltham Palace and the 1930s garden. 14 - =
Wimbledon
⌂ Court Yard SE9 3 Eltham
Windmill Museum
then a 15-minute walk
# Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm 12 ' - = ⌂ Windmill Rd SW19
Sun–Fri (Oct: to 5pm; Mar: 1 3 Wimbledon then bus 93
Horniman Museum
to 4pm); Nov–Feb: 10am– # Apr–Oct: 2–5pm Sat,
4pm Sun only; daily during ⌂ 100 London Rd SE23 11am–5pm Sun & public
Christmas week & half-term 3 Forest Hill # 10am– hols ∑ wimbledon
∑ english-heritage.org.uk 5:30pm daily; animal windmill.org.uk
walk: 12:30–4pm daily;
This unique property lets Built in 1817, the mill on
gardens: 7:15am–sunset
visitors relive the grand life of Wimbledon Common now
Mon–Sat, 8am–sunset
two very different eras. In the houses a museum exploring
Sun & public hols ¢ 24–26
14th century English kings windmills, rural life and local
Dec ∑ horniman.ac.uk
spent Christmas in a splendid history. Boy Scout founder
palace here. The Tudors used Frederick Horniman, a tea Robert Baden-Powell wrote
it as a base for deer-hunting, merchant, had this museum part of Scouting for Boys here
but it fell into ruin after the built in 1901 to house the curios
English Civil War (1642–51). In he had collected on his travels
1935 Stephen Courtauld, of the in the 1860s. It features a music
wealthy textile family, restored
the Great Hall and, next to it,
gallery, an aquarium (for a fee)
and world culture displays, but
Did You Know?
he built a house described as the highlight is a natural history In 2018 the New York
“a wonderful combination of gallery that contains a remark- Times named the
Hollywood glamour and Art able collection of taxidermy Horniman one of the
Deco design”. The palace has and skeletons, including the "10 coolest museums
been superbly restored – famous Horniman Walrus. in the world".
especially the circular glass- The gardens have a Victorian
domed entrance hall. The lush conservatory, a bandstand,
324
in 1908, and there are display the royal collection of the King
cases of early memorabilia of Poland, who had been forced HIDDEN GEM
from the scouting and Girl to abdicate in 1795. Its imagi Sydenham
Guide movements. native use of skylights made it Hill Wood
The mill came out of service the prototype of most galleries A short walk south
in 1864, but you can see some created since. The grand collec of Dulwich Park, this
of the original workings on tion has works by Rembrandt swathe of woodland is
the upper floors, as well as try (his Jacob III de Gheyn has been the largest remaining
your hand at grinding grain stolen from here four times), tract of the ancient Great
on old mortars and querns, Canaletto, Poussin, Watteau, North Wood. Wander
an activity popular with young Raphael and Gainsborough. along the paths and
children. There are also some The building houses Soane’s perhaps you’ll find the
beautifully crafted cutaway mausoleum to Desenfans and hidden Victorian folly.
models of this and other mills. Bourgeois, the art dealers who
built the collection.
one of the prettiest of the
borough parks, with paths
15 " ' - = weaving around colourful
Dulwich y- flowerbeds, sports courts and
Picture Gallery Dulwich Park pitches, a bowling green, a
central boating lake and a duck
⌂ Gallery Rd SE21 3 West ⌂ College Road SE21 3 West
pond. Dog walkers are confined
Dulwich, North Dulwich Dulwich, North Dulwich
to the perimeter, making the
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & @ P4, P13 # 7.30am–dusk
central lawns pleasant for play
bank hols ¢ 1 Jan, 24–26
Just across the road from and picnicking in the warmer
Dec ∑ dulwichpicture
Dulwich Picture Gallery, this months. At weekends the
gallery.org.uk
park was opened in 1890 on outer loop fills with kids and
England’s oldest public art land previously owned by adults messing around on the
gallery, which opened in 1817, Dulwich College, the public novelty bikes rented out by
was designed by Sir John Soane school whose buildings lie to the park’s resident cycle hire
(p143), and was built to house the south of the park. This is firm, London Recumbents.
Visitors exploring
the superb Dulwich
Picture Gallery
325
A cold and frosty morning in Richmond Park
Multinational flags in Brixton
Village, one of a pair of colourful
covered market arcades
Countess of Dysart inherited

17 \ - = it from her father, who had 19 ' - =
Brixton been Charles I’s “whipping Orleans House Gallery
boy” (in his boyhood he
⌂ SW2, SW9 1 3 Brixton ⌂ Orleans Rd, Twickenham
took the punishment for
1 3 St Margaret’s or
The unofficial capital of south the future king’s misdemean-
Richmond then bus 33,
London, Brixton has been ours). From 1672, she and
490, H22, R68 or R70
characterized since the 1950s her husband, a confidant
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
by one of the city’s largest West of Charles II, set about
¢ 1 Jan, Good Fri, 24–26 Dec
Indian communities. Brixton modernizing the house,
∑ orleanshousegallery.org
Market loops around the centre and it was regarded as one
along Electric Avenue, Pope’s of Britain’s finest. The garden This gallery occupies what
Road and Station Road, and has been lovingly restored remains of Orleans House,
is packed full of stalls selling to its 17th-century form. In named after Louis Philippe,
Caribbean produce alongside summer and also on winter Duke of Orleans, who lived there
arts, crafts, clothing and the weekends (except November), from 1815 to 1817. The restored
usual market bric-a-brac. a foot-passenger ferry runs Octagon Room was designed by
Brixton Village and Market from here to Marble Hill James Gibbs for James Johnston
Row, neighbouring market House and Orleans House in 1720. It displays the Richmond
arcades, are filled with inde- at Twickenham. Borough art collection.
pendent traders and an eclectic
mix of food hotspots. Despite
the march of gentrification,
Brixton fiercely protects its 20 " ' - = œ
Marble Hill House
EAT
roots and remains a brilliantly
energetic part of the city.
⌂ Richmond Rd, Twicken
ham 3 St Margaret’s
Franco Manca # Apr–Oct: for guided tours
18 " ' - = ø Arguably London’s love only, check website; park
affair with sourdough and café: daily yearround
Ham House pizza started here, at ¢ Public hols & events
⌂ Ham St, Richmond 1 the original Franco ∑ englishheritage.org.uk
3 Richmond then bus 65 Manca. Simple menu,
perfect pizzas. Built in 1729 for George II’s
or 371 # House: noon–4pm
mistress, Henrietta Howard,
daily; gardens: 10am– ⌂ 4 Market Row
the house and its grounds
5pm daily (Nov–Jan: to 4pm) SW9 ∑ franco
¢ 24 & 25 Dec ∑ national manca.co.uk
trust.org.uk ]]]
This magnificent house beside Syon House, built
the Thames was built in 1610, as a square around a
but its heyday came when the central courtyard
328
have been fully restored to
its Georgian appearance.
The house has a collection of
paintings by William Hogarth
and a depiction of the river
and house in 1762 by artist
Richard Wilson, who is widely
regarded as the father of
English landscape painting.
The house remains closed
pending extensive refur
bishment, but the park is
currently open.
Pleasure boats
plying the Thames
at Richmond
21 \ - =
Richmond
the vast park is a beautiful
⌂ TW10 1 3 Richmond
national nature reserve and 23 " ' - =
This attractive London suburb deer still graze warily among Syon House
gained its name from the the chestnuts, birches and
⌂ London Rd, Brentford
palace that Henry VII built oaks. They have learned to
1 Gunnersbury then bus
here in 1500. Many early 18th coexist with the human
237 or 267 # Mid-Mar–Oct:
century houses survive near visitors who stroll here on
11am–5pm Wed–Thu, Sun &
the Thames and off Richmond fine weekends.
public hols; gardens: mid-
Hill; particularly noteworthy In late spring, the highlight
Mar–Oct: 10:30am–5pm
is Maids of Honour Row, built is the Isabella Plantation
daily ∑ syonpark.co.uk
in 1724. The beautiful view when its spectacular azaleas
of the river from the top of burst into colour, while the The Earls and Dukes of
the hill has been captured Pen Ponds are popular with Northumberland have lived
by many artists over the optimistic anglers. (Adam’s here for 400 years – it is the
years, and has remained Pond is for model boats.) The only large mansion in the
largely unspoiled. rest of the park is covered London area still in hereditary
with heath, bracken and ownership. The interior was
trees (some are hundreds of remodelled in 1761 by Robert
years old). Richmond Gate, Adam and is considered one
22 \ - located in the northwest of his masterpieces. The five
Richmond Park corner, was designed by John Adam rooms house original
Soane (p143) in 1798. furnishings and a collection of
⌂ Richmond TW10
Nearby is Henry VIII Mound, old master paintings.
1 3 Richmond then bus
which offers superb views The 80ha (200acre) park
65 or 371 # 24 hours daily
across the Thames Valley, includes a lovely 16ha (40
(7:30am–8pm Nov & Feb)
with a treeframed sightline acre) garden, landscaped by
towards the City and St Paul’s Capability Brown, with more
In 1637, Charles I built a (p176). The Palladian White than 200 species of rare trees.
13km (8mile) wall round Lodge, built in 1729, is now The park’s Great Conservatory
the royal park to enclose it home to the famed Royal inspired Joseph Paxton’s
as a hunting ground. Today Ballet School. designs for the Crystal Palace.
demonstrate why. Much of
24 " ' - = the furniture is by Adam; the
Musical Museum garden and temple are by
William Chambers, architect
⌂ 399 High St, Brentford
of Somerset House.
3 Kew Bridge 1 Gunners
bury then bus 237 or 267,
or South Ealing then bus 65
# 10:30am–5pm Tue, Fri– 26 " \ - =
Sun & bank hols ∑ musical

Pitzhanger Manor
museum.co.uk
House and Gallery
The collection, arranged over
⌂ Mattock Lane W5 1 Ealing
three floors, chiefly comprises
Broadway # House: 10am–
large automatic instruments,
4:30pm Tue–Fri, Sun &
including player pianos and
public hols; 10am–3pm Sat;
organs, miniature and cinema
park: 7:30am–dusk daily
pianos, and what is apparently
∑ pitzhanger.org.uk
the only surviving self-playing
Wurlitzer organ in Europe. Sir John Soane, architect of
the Bank of England, rebuilt
this manor house in 1804 as
his own country residence.
25 " ' - = ø There are clear echoes of his
Osterley Park elaborately constructed town
and House house in Lincoln’s Inn Fields
(p142). Soane retained two of
⌂ Jersey Rd, Isleworth
the principal formal rooms:
1 Osterley # House:
the drawing room and the
times vary, check website;
dining room, designed in 1768 27 " - =
garden: 10am–5pm daily
by George Dance the Younger, London Museum
(Nov–midFeb: to 4pm);
with whom Soane had worked. of Water & Steam
park: 7am–7:30pm daily
Set in landscaped Walpole
(later in summer) ⌂ Green Dragon Lane,
Park, Pitzhanger reopened in
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk Brentford 1 Kew Bridge,
2019 following a £12-million
Gunnersbury then bus 237
Osterley is ranked among conservation project, which
or 267 # 10am–4pm Wed–
Robert Adam’s finest works returned the house to Soane’s
Sun, daily in school hols
and its colonnaded portico vision, with a skylit gallery
¢ 24–28 Dec ∑ waterand
and ornate stuccowork for exhibitions.
steam.org.uk
This 19th-century water

pumping station near the
north end of Kew Bridge is
now a museum of steam
power and water. Its main
exhibits are five giant Cornish
beam engines that pumped
water here from the river, to
be distributed across London.
The earliest engines, dating
from 1820, are similar to those
built to pump water out of
Cornish mines. Visitors can see
them working some weekends
and on public holidays (times
are posted on the website).
The Waterworks gallery tells
the story of London’s water
Gobelins tapestry from

the “Loves of the Gods”
series at Osterley
330
DRINK
The Bell and Crown
Lots of riverside
outdoor seating and
a rustic interior are
found here.
⌂ 11–13 Thames Rd,
Chiswick W4
The City Barge

Great food and beer is
available here daily, and
the Saturday brunch
Part of the Knot Garden
at Fulham Palace (inset), 29 " ' - = is legendary.
originally created by Chiswick House ⌂ 27 Strand-on-the-

Green, Chiswick W4
Bishop Blomfield in 1831
⌂ Burlington Lane W4
1 Chiswick # Apr–Oct:
Bull’s Head
10am–3pm Mon & Wed,
supply in lots of interactive Cosy pub with good
10am–4pm Sat & Sun;
detail, and there’s an outdoor Sunday roasts as
gardens: 7am–dusk daily
area where children can play well as riverside
∑ chiswick houseand
with the water features. picnic benches.
gardens.org.uk
⌂ 15 Strand-on-the-
Completed in 1729 to the Green, Chiswick W4
design of its owner, the third
28 - = Earl of Burlington, this is a fine
Fulham Palace example of a Palladian villa.
Burlington revered Palladio
⌂ Bishops Ave SW6
and his disciple Inigo Jones, and
1 Putney Bridge # Daily;
statues of both stand outside. 30 =
times vary, check website;
Built around a central octago- Hogarth’s House
botanic garden: dawn–dusk
nal room, the house is packed
daily ¢ 25, 26 & 31 Dec ⌂ Hogarth Lane W4
with references to ancient
∑ fulhampalace.org 1 Turnham Green
Rome and Renaissance Italy.
# Noon–5pm Tue–Sun &
The home of the Bishops of Chiswick was Burlington’s
bank hol Mon ¢ 1 Jan,
London from the 8th century country residence and this
Good Fri, Easter Sun,
until 1973, Fulham Palace has house was built as an annexe
25 Dec ∑ hogarths
parts that date from the 15th to a larger, older house (since
house.org
century. The palace stands in demolished). It was designed
its own landscaped gardens, for recreation and entertaining When the painter William
which comprise a botanical – Lord Hervey, Burlington’s Hogarth lived here from 1749
garden and a delightful walled enemy, dismissed it as “too until his death in 1764, he
garden, from which produce little to live in and too big to called it “a little country box
grown in the palace garden is hang on a watch chain”. Some by the Thames” and painted
sold from a barrow. Restored of the ceiling paintings are rural views from its windows –
using original materials in 2019, by architect William Kent, he had moved here from
the original Tudor courtyard who also contributed to the Leicester Square (p115). It has
lies at the heart of the palace. garden design. now been turned into a small
Renovations also reopened The house was an asylum museum and gallery, filled
long-inaccessible historic from 1892 until 1928, when with engraved copies of the
rooms to the public gaze. restoration began. The layout moralistic cartoon-style
Now home to a museum, it of the gardens, now a public pictures with which Hogarth
imaginatively retells the stories park, is much as Burlington made his name. Salutary tales
of the Bishops of London, designed it. Tours of the house such as Marriage à la Mode,
including a “mood room” that are included with admission An Election Entertainment, A
explores the palace’s history and take place at noon, plus Harlot’s Progress and many
using light and sound. 2:30pm on weekends. others can all be seen here.
331
Transport in London city centre
NEED TO KNOW
Before You Go .............................................334
Getting Around ...........................................336
Practical Information .............................. 340

BEFORE
YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW Before You Go
Things change, so plan ahead to make the most of your trip. Be prepared for
all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
AT A GLANCE Passports and Visas

For entry requirements, including visas,
CURRENCY
Pound Sterling
consult your nearest British embassy or check
the UK Government website. Post-Brexit
(GBP)
£ arrangements for citizens from EEA countries
will vary depending on the terms agreed; rights
of Irish citizens will not change.
UK Government
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND ∑ gov.uk/check-uk-visa
∑ gov.uk/guidance/visiting-the-uk-after-brexit
Government Advice
SAVE SPEND SPLURGE
Now more than ever, it is important to
£75 £125 £200
consult both your and the UK government’s
advice before travelling. The UK Foreign
and Commonwealth Office, the US State
Department, and the Australian Department
of Foreign Affairs and Trade offer the latest
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO
information on security, health and regulations.
£1 £2.80 £5 £70 Australia
∑ smartraveller.gov.au
UK
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
CLIMATE US
∑ travel.state.gov
The longest days occur
May–Aug, while Oct–Feb sees
the shortest daylight hours. Customs Information
You can find information on the laws relating to
Daytime highs average 22°C goods and currency taken in or out of the UK on
(75°F) in summer. Winter can the UK Government website.
be cold and icy. UK Government
∑ gov.uk/duty-free-goods
The heaviest rainfall is in
October and November, but
Insurance
showers occur all year round.
We recommend that you take out a
comprehensive insurance policy covering theft,
loss of belongings, medical care, cancellations
ELECTRICITY and delays, and read the small print carefully.
SUPPLY Emergency treatment is usually free from
Power sockets are the National Health Service, and there are
type G, fitting reciprocal arrangements with Australia, New
three-pronged Zealand and some others (check the NHS
plugs. Standard website for details). Healthcare arrangements
voltage is 230 volts. for EEA citizens – currently covered by the
334
EHIC (European Health Insurance Card)– provisions. AccessAble has a useful searchable
are likely to change in 2021. Check the NHS online directory. Museums and galleries offer
website for the most up-to-date information. audio tours, which are useful to those with
EHIC impaired vision. Action on Hearing Loss and the
∑ gov.uk/european-health-insurance-card RNIB (Royal National Institute of Blind People)
NHS can also offer useful information and advice.
∑ nhs.uk AccessAble
∑ accessable.co.uk
Vaccinations Action on Hearing Loss
∑ actionhearingloss.org.uk
No inoculations are needed for the UK. RNIB
∑ rnib.org.uk
Money
Language
Major credit and debit cards are accepted in most
shops and restaurants, while prepaid currency English is the official language spoken in London.
cards are accepted in some. Contactless payments However, it is a multicultural city, in which you will
are widely accepted in London, including on public hear many languages spoken. Many attractions
transport. However, it is always worth carrying and tour companies offer foreign language tours.
some cash, as some smaller businesses and
markets still operate a cash-only policy. Cash Opening Hours
machines are conveniently located at banks,
train stations, shopping areas and main streets.
Tipping in London is discretionary. In
restaurants it’s customary to tip 10–12.5 per COVID-19 The pandemic continues to affect
cent for good service. It is usual to tip taxi drivers London. Some museums, tourist attractions and
10 per cent and hotel porters, concierge and hospitality venues are operating on reduced or
housekeeping £1–2 per bag or day. temporary opening hours, and require visitors to
make advance bookings for a specific date and
Booking Accommodation time. Always check ahead before visiting.
London offers a huge variety of accommodation

to suit any budget, including luxury five-star Mondays Some museums and attractions close.
hotels, family-run B&Bs and budget hostels. Sundays Most shops operate limited opening.
Lodgings can fill up and prices become Public holidays Public services are closed for the
inflated during the summer, so it’s worth day; some shops, museums and attractions
booking well in advance. either close or operate shorter hours.
A comprehensive list of accommodation to
suit all needs can be found via Visit London,
London’s official tourist information website. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 2021
Visit London
1 Jan New Year’s Day
∑ visitlondon.com
2 Apr Good Friday
5 Apr Easter Monday
Travellers with Specific
3 May Early May Bank Holiday
Requirements 31 May Spring Bank Holiday
Accessibility information for public transport 30 Aug Summer Bank Holiday
is available from the TFL website (p337). In the 25 Dec Christmas Day
City, Westminster, Camden and Kensington and 26 Dec Boxing Day
Chelsea, a disabled-driver badge allows you to 27 Dec In lieu of Christmas Day
park in Blue Badge bays only. The Visit London 28 Dec In lieu of Boxing Day
website offers handy tips on the city’s accessibility
335
GETTING
AROUND
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around
London has one of the busiest public transport systems in Europe;

understanding how it works will help you make the most of your trip.
AT A GLANCE
Arriving by Air
Five major airports serve London: Heathrow,
PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS Gatwick, Stansted, Luton and City. With the
SINGLE BUS JOURNEY exception of City Airport, all are situated a
significant distance from central London, with
£1.50 good transport connections to the city centre.
For the best rates, book train or bus tickets in
Zone 1–9 advance. For a list of transport options,
(flat fare) approximate journey times and travel costs
for transport to and from London’s airports,
SINGLE TUBE JOURNEY see the table opposite.
£2.40 Train Travel

Zone 1–2 International Train Travel
(off peak)
St Pancras International is the London terminus
DAILY TRAVELCARD for Eurostar, the high-speed train linking the UK
with the Continent.
£13.10 You can buy tickets and passes for multiple
international journeys via Eurail or Interrail;
Zone 1–6 advance reservations are usually not required
(off peak) but always check that your pass is valid on the
service on which you wish to travel before
attempting to board.
Eurostar runs regular services from Paris,
SPEED LIMIT
Brussels and Amsterdam (via Brussels) to
DUAL London via the Channel Tunnel.
MOTORWAY CARRIAGEWAYS
Eurotunnel operates a drive-on-drive-off
train service between Calais and Folkestone, in
70 70
southeast England.
Eurail
mph mph ∑ eurail.com
(110 km/h) (110 km/h) Eurostar
∑ eurostar.com
Eurotunnel
SINGLE URBAN
CARRIAGEWAYS AREAS ∑ eurotunnel.com
Interrail
∑ interrail.eu
60mph
30mph
Domestic Train Travel
(95 km/h ) (50 km/h)
The UK’s railway system is complicated and can
be confusing. Lines are run by several different
companies, but they are coordinated by
National Rail, which operates a joint
information service.
London has eight main railway termini
serving different parts of Britain (Charing
336
GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT
Airport Transport to London Journey Time Price

London City DLR 30 mins from £2.80
Taxi 20 mins from £25
London Heathrow Heathrow Express 15 mins from £22
London Underground 50 mins from £3.10
National Express Coach 1 hr from £5
Taxi 1 hr from £40
London Stansted Stansted Express 50 mins from £9.45
National Express Coach 1 hr 50 mins from £5
Taxi 1 hr 10 mins from £75
London Gatwick Gatwick Express 30 mins from £17.80
London Thameslink 40 mins from £11
National Express Coach 1 hr 50 mins from £6
Taxi 1 hr 30 mins from £60
London Luton Bus & London Thameslink 45 mins from £17.40
National Express Coach 1hr 20 mins from £7
Taxi 1hr 10 mins from £75
Cross, Euston, King’s Cross, London Bridge, routes to London from other European cities.
St Pancras, Paddington, Waterloo and Victoria). Fares start from around £17 and vary depending
There are also over 300 smaller London stations. on distance. Book in advance.
Each main terminus is the starting point for Eurolines
local and suburban lines that cover the whole ∑ eurolines.eu
of southeast England. National Express
London’s local and suburban train lines ∑ nationalexpress.com
are used by commuters every day. For visitors,
rail services are most useful for trips to the Public Transport
outskirts of London and areas of the city
without nearby Underground connections Transport for London (TFL) is London’s main
(especially in south London). If you are planning public transport authority. Safety and hygiene
to travel outside of the capital, always try to measures, timetables, ticket information, transport
book rail tickets in advance. maps and more can be found on their website.
National Rail TFL
∑ nationalrail.co.uk ∑ tfl.gov.uk
Long-Distance Bus Travel Fare Zones

TFL divides the city into six charging zones for
Coaches from European and UK destinations Underground, Overground and National Rail
arrive at Victoria Coach Station. The biggest services, radiating out from Zone 1 in the centre.
operator in the UK is National Express. Eurolines On buses, there is a flat fare for each trip, no
is its European arm, offering a variety of coach matter how far you travel.
337
Tickets Stations with step-free access are marked on
Tube and rail fares are expensive, especially Tube maps, which are located on all trains and
individual tickets. If you expect to make multiple at every station.
trips around the city in a short space of time, you
can buy a one-day off-peak Travelcard, which The Overground
gives unlimited travel on all systems after 9:30am Marked on Tube maps by an orange line, the
on weekdays (or any time on Saturday, Sunday Overground connects with the Underground
and public holidays) until 4:30am the next and main railway stations at various points
morning within Zones 1–4 or 1–6 for a flat fee. across the city. It operates in much the same
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around
If you wish to travel more freely, purchase a way as the Underground, and covers most
pay-as-you-go Oyster card or Visitor Oyster card areas of the city without nearby Underground
(valid for all London zones, as well as Heathrow connections. The line between Highbury &
and Gatwick Express), which you can preload Islington and New Cross Gate runs 24 hours
and top up with credit (note that a £5 deposit is Friday and Saturday.
required when buying an Oyster card and you
will need one card per person). You can also use Bus
contactless credit or debit cards in the same way Slower but cheaper than the Tube, buses are
as the Oyster card. It is cheaper to pay as you go also a good way of seeing the city as you travel.
using contactless or Oyster as fares are subject Bus routes are displayed on the TFL website
to daily and weekly caps. and on maps at bus stops. The destination and
When using public transport, you “touch in” route number is indicated on the front of the
with your card on a yellow card reader, and the bus and the stops are announced on board.
corresponding amount is deducted. On Under- Buses do not accept cash so a ticket, Oyster
ground, DLR and Overground trains, you must card or contactless payment is required.
also remember to “touch out” where you finish A single fare costs £1.50, while unlimited
your journey, or you will be charged a maximum bus travel caps out at £4.50 – just use the same
fare, though the excess can usually be reclaimed card each time you use the bus to reach the
via the website if you forget. Prices rise during daily cap.
peak times: 6:30–9:30am and 4–7pm Mon–Fri. The hopper fare allows you to make unlimited
Buy Travelcards and Oyster cards at Under- bus journeys for free within an hour of travel.
ground and local rail stations, or any shop that Travel is free on buses for under-16s as long as
has the TFL “Ticket Stop” sticker in the window. they carry a Zip Oyster photocard. Apply for one
Many smaller stations just have self-service on the TFL website at least four weeks before
machines. You can also buy them from overseas you are due to arrive.
agents in around 30 countries. The Night buses (indicated by the letter “N”
added before the route number) run on many
The Underground and DLR popular routes from 11pm until 6am, generally
The London Underground (commonly referred to 3–4 times per hour up to 2 or 3am.
as “the Tube”) has 11 lines, all named and colour-
coded, which intersect at various stations. The Taxis
construction of an additional line, the Elizabeth
line, is currently underway. Following setbacks, London’s iconic black cabs can be hailed on the
this will open in late 2021 at the earliest. street, booked online or over the phone, or
Some lines, like the Jubilee, have a single picked up at taxi ranks throughout the city. The
branch; others, like the Northern, have more yellow “Taxi” sign is lit up when the taxi is free.
than one, so it is important to check the digital The driver’s cab licence number should be
boards on the platform and the destination on displayed in the back of the taxi.
the front of the train. All taxis are metered, and fares start from £3.
Trains run every few minutes 7:30–9:30am Taxi apps such as Uber also operate in London.
and 4–7pm, and every 5–10 minutes at all other The following services can be booked by
times. The Central, Jubilee, Northern, Victoria phone or online:
and Piccadilly lines offer a 24-hour service on Dial-a-Cab
selected routes on Fridays and Saturdays. All ∑ dialacab.co.uk
other lines operate roughly 5am–12:40am Licensed London Taxi
Mon–Sat, with reduced hours on Sun. ∑ licensedlondontaxi.co.uk
The DLR (Docklands Light Railway) is a mostly
overground network of trains that run from the Driving
City to stops in east and southeast London,
including City Airport and Greenwich. It operates Holders of non-UK licences, including EU
roughly 5:30–12:30am Mon–Sat, 7am–11:30pm citizens, may need to apply for an International
Sun, with trains departing every 3 minutes. Driving Permit. Check with your local automobile
338
association before you travel, or consult the Cycling
UK Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA).
DVLA You need a strong nerve to cycle in London’s
∑gov.uk/driving-nongb-licence traffic, but it can be a great way to see the city.
Santander Cycles, London’s self-service cycle
Driving in London hire, has docking stations in central London.
Driving in London is not recommended. Traffic Bikes can also be rented from the London
is slow-moving, parking is scarce and expensive, Bicycle Tour Company and other rental
and in central London there is the added cost of companies throughout the city.
the Congestion Charge – a £15 daily charge for Be aware that drink-drive limits (p341) also
driving in central London 7am–10pm daily. apply to cyclists.
In the event of an accident, contact the AA for Santander Cycles
roadside assistance. ∑ tfl.gov.uk/modes/cycling/santander-cycles
AA London Bicycle Tour Company
∑ theaa.com ∑ londonbicycle.com
Congestion Charge
∑ tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/congestion-charge Walking
Parking Walking is a rewarding way to get around in
Parking is prohibited at all times wherever the London. The centre is not large, and you will be
street is marked with double yellow or red lines surprised at how short the distance is between
by the kerb. places that seem far apart on the Tube.
If there is a single yellow line, parking is
normally allowed from 6:30pm–8am Mon–Sat Boats and Ferries
and all day Sun, but exact hours vary, so always
check the signs along each street before leaving Car ferries departing from Calais and Dunkirk
your vehicle. Where there is no line at all, parking arrive in Dover or Folkestone, around 2 hours’
is free at all times, but this is rare in central drive from London.
London. Rental car drivers are still liable for Passenger and car-ferry services also sail
parking fines. from other ports in northern France to the
south of England, as well as from Bilbao and
Car Rental Santander in Spain to Portsmouth or Plymouth.
To rent a car in the UK you must be 21 or over Ferry services also run to other ports around
(or in some cases, 25) and have held a valid the country from the Netherlands and the
driver’s licence for at least a year. Republic of Ireland.
Driving out of central London will take about
an hour in any direction, more during rush hours; London by Boat
if you want to tour the countryside, it can be Some of London’s most spectacular views can
easier to take a train to a town or city outside be seen from the River Thames.
London and rent a car from there. Airports tend MBNA Thames Clippers runs river services
to offer cheaper car rental. every 20 minutes on catamarans between
Westminster and North Greenwich in both
Rules of the Road directions, via the London Eye, Bankside and
Drive on the left. Seat belts must be worn at Tower Bridge. Running between Battersea
all times by the driver and all passengers. Power Station and London Bridge, the Tate
Children up to 135 cm tall or the age of 12 or Boat, or RB2, is also operated by MBNA Thames
under must travel with the correct child seat Clippers and connects the Tate Britain and
for their weight and size. Tate Modern museums.
Mobile telephones may not be used while Standard tickets cost £9 in the central zone,
driving except with a “hands-free” system, and but discounted fares apply if bought online,
third-party insurance is required by law. via the Thames Clippers app or when using
Overtake on the outside or right-hand lane, a Travelcard, contactless or Oyster card (pay
and when approaching a roundabout, give as you go).
priority to traffic approaching from the right, A number of providers offer river tours and
unless indicated otherwise. All vehicles must experiences on the Thames, with numerous
give way to emergency services vehicles. options available, from dining experiences to
It is illegal to drive in bus lanes during certain hop-on-hop-off services.
hours. See roadside signs for restrictions. MBNA Thames Clippers
The drink-driving legal limit (p341) is strictly ∑ thamesclippers.com
enforced and penalities upon conviction can River Tours
be severe. ∑ tfl.gov.uk/modes/river/about-river-tours
339
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
NEED TO KNOW Practical Information
A little local know-how goes a long way in London. Here you will find
all the essential advice and information you will need during your stay.
AT A GLANCE
Personal Security
London is a relatively safe city to visit. Pick
EMERGENCY NUMBERS pocketing is less of a problem than in many other
European capitals. Keep your belongings in a safe
GENERAL
EMERGENCY place and with you at all times, use your common
sense and be alert to your surroundings.
If you have anything stolen, report the crime
999 as soon as possible to the nearest police station.
Get a copy of the crime report in order to claim
on your insurance.
Contact your embassy if you have your
passport stolen, or in the event of a serious
TIME ZONE
crime or accident.
GMT/BST
As a rule, Londoners are very accepting of
British Summer
all people, regardless of their race, gender or
Time (BST) runs
28 Mar–31 Oct 2021
sexuality. Homosexuality was legalized in
EST -5; AEDT +11
England in 1967 and in 2004, the UK recognized
the right to legally change your gender. If you
do feel unsafe, the Safe Space Alliance
TAP WATER
pinpoints your nearest place of refuge.
Unless otherwise
Safe Space Alliance
stated, tap water
∑ safespacealliance.com
in the UK is safe
to drink.
Health
The UK has a worldclass healthcare system.
Emergency medical care in the UK is generally
APPS free. It is important to arrange comprehensive
medical insurance before travelling. If you have an
Citymapper
EHIC card (p334), be sure to present this as soon
Covers all urban modes of transport,
as possible. You may have to pay after treatment
including cycling and walking routes, to
and reclaim the money later. Those without
help you navigate the city.
an EHIC may have to pay upfront for medical
treatment and reclaim on insurance at a later
TFL Oyster and contactless
Top up and manage your Oyster card on
date; check the NHS website (p335) for details
the go with this app from TFL.
of reciprocal agreements in place for treatment
between your home country and the UK.
Trainline For minor ailments go to a pharmacy or
Use this app to find the cheapest train chemist. These are plentiful throughout the
tickets and check journey times. city; chains such as Boots and Superdrug have
branches in almost every shopping district.
Visit London If you have an accident or medical problem
Includes offline maps, area guides plus requiring nonurgent medical attention, you
exclusive deals and offers. can find details of your nearest nonemergency
medical service on the NHS website (p335).
Alternatively, you can contact NHS 111 (the
NHS emergency care service) at any hour online
340
or by calling 111, or go to your nearest Accident Visitors travelling to the UK with EU tariffs
and Emergency (A&E) department. after the UK leaves the European Union should
You may need a doctor’s prescription to check whether they are affected by data
obtain certain pharmaceuticals; the pharmacist roaming charges.
can inform you of the closest doctor’s surgery
or medical centre where you can be seen by Post
a GP (general practitioner).
NHS 111 Standard post in the UK is handled by Royal
∑ 111.nhs.uk Mail. There are Royal Mail post office branches
located throughout London, which are
Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs generally open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri and
until 12:30pm Sat.
The UK has a smoking ban in all public places, You can buy 1st-class, 2nd-class and
including bars, cafés, restaurants, public international stamps in post offices, shops
transport, train stations and hotels. and supermarkets. Distinctive red post boxes
The UK legal limit for drivers is 80 mg of are located on main streets throughout the city.
alcohol per 100 ml of blood, or 0.08 per cent
BAC (blood alcohol content). This is roughly Taxes and Refunds
equivalent to one small glass of wine or a pint
of regular-strength lager; however, it is best to VAT (Value Added Tax) is charged at 20% and
avoid drinking altogether if you plan to drive. almost always included in the marked price. Stores
The possession of illegal drugs is prohibited offering tax-free shopping display a distinctive
and could result in a prison sentence. sign and will provide you with a VAT 407 form to
validate when you leave the country. EU residents
ID should check www.gov.uk for the latest advice.
There is no requirement for visitors to carry ID, but Discount Cards

in the case of a routine check you may be asked
to show your passport and visa documentation. London can be an expensive city, but there are
Anyone who looks under 18 may be asked for a number of ways in which costs can be reduced,
photo ID to prove their age when buying alcohol. and many museums are free. Students and under-
18s pay lower admission to many exhibitions, and
Local Customs holders of an ISIC (International Student Identity
Card) or IYTC (International Youth Travel Card)
Always stand to the right on escalators or are eligible for a range of other discounts.
stairwells. Allow passengers to exit before A number of visitor passes and discount cards
you board public transport. On the Tube, it is are available online and from participating
customary to offer your seat to passengers tourist offices. These cards are not free, so
who are less able-bodied, pregnant or elderly. consider carefully how many of the offers you
are likely to take advantage of before buying
Visiting Places of Worship one. For a full list of the options available,
consult the Visit London website.
Dress respectfully when entering places of One such card is the London Pass, which
worship: cover your torso and upper arms. offers free entry to more than 80 of the city’s
Ensure shorts and skirts cover your knees. top attractions, fast-track entry to some busier
sights, money off selected tours and discounts
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi in participating shops and restaurants, with the
option of adding unlimited travel.
Free Wi-Fi hotspots are widely available in the London Pass
city centre. Cafés and restaurants will give you ∑ londonpass.com
their Wi-Fi password, though you should make Visit London
a purchase beforehand. ∑ visitlondon.com
341
INDEX Berwick Street Market
118–19
Beyond the Centre 25, 310–31
Canary Wharf 41, 307
see also Greenwich and
Canary Wharf
map 311 Car ferries 339
Page numbers in bold refer pubs and bars 322, 331 Carlyle, Thomas 95
to main entries restaurants 321, 328 Carlyle’s House 237
BFI Southbank 225 Car rental 339
2 Willow Road 294 Big Ben 76, 80, 85 Cash 334, 335
18 Stafford Terrace 266 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 19, Cathedrals
Index
19 Princelet Street 201 36, 150–63 St Paul’s Cathedral 51, 63,

A Short Walk: Bloomsbury 176–9, 192
A 162–3
map 152–3
St Sophia’s Cathedral 269
Southwark Cathedral 212,
Accommodation pubs and bars 161 217
booking 335 restaurants 161 Westminster Abbey 72–5, 84
see also Hotels shopping 159 Westminster Cathedral 51, 83
Air travel Bloomsbury Group 55, 158, see also Churches
arriving by air 336 293 Cemeteries
getting to/from airports Bloomsbury Square 158, 163 Bunhill Fields 199
337 Boat Race 39, 58 Highgate Cemetery 292–3
Albert Memorial 255, 259 Boats St Pancras Old Church and
Albert, Prince 34, 246 London by boat 339 Graveyard 168–9
Albert Memorial 255, 259 Queen Elizabeth Olympic Cenotaph, the 81, 85
Alcohol 341 Park 313 Changing the Guard 35, 90, 91
Alexandra Palace 322–3 Serpentine 257 Chapels
All Hallows by the Tower Thames Clipper 41, 339 Lady Chapel (Westminster
188 Boleyn, Anne 35, 182, 230 Abbey) 74, 75
All Souls, Langham Place Bond, James 133 Queen’s Chapel 97
278–9 Books, London for Bookworms Wesley’s Chapel-Leysian
Ambulances 340 54–5 Mission 198
Angel Islington 171 Bookshops 54–5, 100, 118, Charing Cross Road 118
Apps 340 159, 281 Charles Dickens Museum 54, 159
Apsley House 98–9 Borough Market 10, 57, 213, Charlton House 323
ArcelorMittal Orbit (Kapoor) 217 Charterhouse 191
312 Brick Lane 32, 199 Chelsea and Battersea 22,
Architecture 11 British Film Institute 45, 222 232–39
London on the Roof 50–51 BFI Southbank 225 A Long Walk: Chelsea and
ATMs 335 British Library 55, 168 Battersea 240–41
Auction houses 98 British Museum 154–7, 162 hotels 237
tours 154 map 234–5
B Brixton 328
Broadcasting House 278
restaurants 238
Chelsea Harbour 238
Ballet 46, 125 Brompton Oratory 254, 259 Chelsea Old Church 237
see also Entertainment Brompton Square 259 Chelsea Physic Garden 237
Bank of England Museum Buckingham Palace 90–91, 96 Children, London for Families
186, 193 Budgeting 334 52–3
Bankside see Southwark and Bunhill Fields 199 Chinatown 33, 112–13
Bankside Burgh House 293, 297 Chiswick House 36, 331
Bankside Gallery 212–13 Burlington Arcade 97, 100 Christ Church, Spitalfields 201
Banqueting House 82, 85 Bus travel 338 Churches
BAPS Shri Swaminarayan long-distance 337 All Hallows by the Tower 188
Mandir 32, 322, 323 All Souls, Langham Place 278
Barbican Centre 184–5
Barbican Estate 184, 185 C Brompton Oratory 254, 259
Chelsea Old Church 237
Bars see Pubs and bars Cafés see Restaurants Christ Church, Spitalfields 201
Battersea see Chelsea and Calendar concerts 46
Battersea A Year in London 58–9 etiquette 341
Battersea Park 238–9 Sporting 39 Holy Trinity Church 259
Battersea Power Station Camden see King’s Cross, St Alfege 308
239 Camden and Islington St Andrew, Holborn 147
Bedford Square 162 Camden Market 170 St Bartholomew-the-Great
Beefeaters 180–81 Camley Street Natural Park 189
Bermondsey Street 215 37, 169 St Bride’s 145, 177
342
Churches (cont.) Cricket 39 Entertainment (cont.)
St Clement Danes 144, 149 Lord’s Cricket Ground 278 Purcell Room 222, 225
St Ethelreda’s Church 147 Crime 340 Queen Elizabeth Hall 220, 225
St George’s, Bloomsbury 159, Crown Jewels 180, 181, 183 Rich Mix 202–3
163 Cumberland Terrace 281 Rose Playhouse 213
St James Garlickhythe 192 Currency 334 Royal Albert Hall 46–7, 64,
St James’s Church 95, 101 Customs regulations 334 254–5, 258
St John’s Downshire Hill 294 Cutty Sark 302, 308 Royal Festival Hall 222, 223,
St John’s Smith Square 46, 83 Cycling 339 220, 225
St Katharine Cree 191 Lee Valley VeloPark 312 Royal Opera House 126, 129,
St Lawrence Jewry 190 135
St Leonard’s Church 202
St Margaret’s Church 80–81, D Sam Wanamaker Playhouse
211, 206
84 Dennis Severs’ House 200 Savoy Theatre 130
St Martin-in-the-Fields 46, Design Museum 264–5, 270 Shakespeare’s Globe 210–11,
114 Diana, Princess of Wales 94, 216
St Mary Abchurch 193 178, 256 Southbank Centre 65, 222–5
St Mary Aldermary 192 Diana Memorial Playground Theatreland 12, 133
St Marylebone Parish Church 52–3, 256 Theatre Royal Drury Lane
278, 282 Dickens, Charles 54, 112, 141, 129, 135
St Mary-le-Bow 176, 187, 143, 146, 237 Wigmore Hall 281
192 Charles Dickens Museum 54, Estorick Collection of Modern
St Mary-le-Strand 132 159 Italian Art 170
St Mary’s, Battersea 239 Discounts Etiquette 341
St Mary Woolnoth 193 cards and passes 341 Eurotunnel 336
St Nicholas Cole Abbey 192 children 53
St Pancras Old Church and
Graveyard 168–9
public transport 338
theatre tickets 46, 115 F
St Paul’s Church 129, 135 Downing Street 81, 85 Fan Museum 305
St Stephen Walbrook 176, Downshire Hill 294 Faraday, Michael, Faraday
187, 193 Drink see Food and drink; Pubs Museum 99
Temple Church 141 and bars Fenton House and Garden
see also Cathedrals; Chapels Driving 338–9 293, 296
Churchill, Winston 64, 80, 178 Dr Johnson’s House 146 Ferries 339
Churchill War Rooms 81, 84 Drugs 341 Festival of Britain (1951) 65,
Church Row 294, 297 Dulwich Park 325 223
Cinemas 44–5, 50 Dulwich Picture Gallery 325 Festivals and events 11, 33
Circus West Village 239 A Year in London 58–9
The City 20, 172–93
A Short Walk: The City 192–3 E film festivals 45, 59
food festivals 56
map 174–5 Electricity supply 334 Notting Hill Carnival 11, 32–3,
pubs and bars 189 Elgin Marbles 157 58–9, 268
restaurants 191 Elizabeth II, Queen 34, 94 Southbank Centre 222
City Hall 40, 215 Buckingham Palace 90–91 Sporting Calendar 39
Cleopatra’s Needle 132 Coronation 73, 75 Film
Climate 334 Diamond Jubilee 312 London for Film Buffs 44–5
Clink Prison Museum 214, 217 Kensington Palace 256 Warner Bros. Studio Tour:
Coach travel 337 Eltham Palace 324 The Making of Harry Potter
Coal Drop Yard 169 Emergency numbers 340 320–21
Columbia Road Market 10, 202 Emirates Air Line 306 Fire service 340
Coronation 73, 75, 183 Entertainment Fitzrovia see Bloomsbury and
County Hall 224, 229 Barbican Centre 184–5 Fitzrovia
Courtauld Gallery 128, 129 BFI Southbank 225 Fitzroy Square 160
Covent Garden Piazza and for children 53 Flask Walk 293, 297
Central Market 126–7, 134–5 Kings Place 169 Fleet Street 144, 149
Covent Garden and the Strand London Coliseum 133 Florence Nightingale Museum
18, 122–35 London for Film Buffs 44–5 230
A Short Walk: Covent Garden London for Live Shows 46–7 Food and drink
134–35 London on the Roof 50–51 London for Foodies 56–7
maps 124–5 National Theatre 222, 224, pub food 43
pubs and bars 132 229, 231 Top 5 London Food Hubs 57
restaurants 132, 128, 131 O2 Arena 306 see also Pubs and bars;
Credit/debit cards 335 The Old Vic 231 Restaurants
343
Football 38–9 Henry VIII 35, 74, 82, 95, 191 Historic buildings (cont.)
Fortnum & Mason 95, 100 armour 182 Peace Pagoda (Battersea
Foundling Museum 160–61 birthplace 304, 308 Park) 239
Freud, Sigmund, Freud Museum Green Park 97 Pitzhanger Manor House and
295 Hampton Court 314–17 Gallery 330
Fulham Palace 331 Henry VIII Mound 328 Queen’s House 304, 309
Hyde Park 257 Ranger’s House 305
G St James’s Palace 94, 100

Highgate see Hampstead and
Royal Exchange 181, 193
Royal Hospital Chelsea 238
Index
Gabriel’s Wharf 230 Highgate Somerset House 128–9

Gatwick Airport 336, 337 Highgate Cemetery 292–3 Spencer House 94, 100
Geffrye Museum 203 Top 5 Notable Residents 293 Sutton House 323
Gherkin, the 189 High Street Kensington 267, 270 Syon House 36, 329
Golden Hinde II 217 Historic buildings Tower of London 35, 180–83
Granary Square 168 2 Willow Road 294 Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Grant Museum of Zoology 161 18 Stafford Terrace 266 146–7
Gray’s Inn 140, 141 19 Princelet Street 201 see also Cathedrals; Chapels;
Great Court (British Museum) Admiral’s House 296 Churches; Libraries;
153, 157 Albany mansion 100 Museums and galleries;
Great Exhibition 64, 223, 257 Apsley House 98–9 Palaces
Green Park 97 Bankside power station History 60–65
Greenwich and Canary Wharf 208–9 HMS Belfast 215
24, 298–309 Banqueting House 82, 85 Hogarth, William 111, 114, 115,
A Short Walk: Greenwich Battersea Power Station 239 161, 191, 329
308–9 Bethlehem Royal Hospital Hogarth’s House 331
map 300–301 for the Insane (“Bedlam”) Holborn and the Inns of Court
pubs and bars 305 227 18, 136–49
restaurants 303 Broadcasting House 278 A Short Walk: Lincoln’s Inn
shopping 303 Burgh House 293, 297 148–9
Greenwich Foot Tunnel 41, Burlington House 92 map 138–9
305, 308 Carlyle’s House 237 pubs and bars 145
Greenwich Park 303 Central Hall 84 shopping 146
Grosvenor Square 99 Charlton House 323 Holland Park 53, 266, 270–71
Guards Museum 83 Charterhouse 191 see also Kensington, Holland
Guildhall 190 Chatham House 94 Park and Notting Hill
Chiswick House 36, 331 Horniman Museum 324
H Churchill War Rooms 81, 84

Clarence House 100
Horse Guards Parade 35, 82, 85
Hotels
Ham House 326 Dennis Severs’ House 200 booking 335
Hammersmith Bridge 40 Dover House 85 Chelsea and Battersea 237
Hampstead Heath 290–91, Dr Johnson’s House 146 Kensington, Holland Park and
296 Elizabeth Tower 76, 80 Notting Hill 267
Hampstead and Highgate 24, Fenton House 293, 296 Mayfair and St James’s 99
286–97 Flamsteed House 303 Regent’s Park and
A Short Walk: Hampstead Great Pagoda (Kew Gardens) Marylebone 277
296–7 319 Ritz Hotel 96, 100
map 288–9 Guildhall 190 Savoy Hotel 130
pubs and bars 295 Ham House 328–9 Whitehall and Westminster 80
Hampton Court 35, 40, 314–17 Holland House 266, 270 Household Cavalry Museum 83
Hampton Court Flower Show Inns of Court 140–41, 148–9 Houses of Parliament 13, 64,
314 Jewel Tower 77, 80, 84 76–7, 85
Handel & Hendrix in London Keat’s House 295 Hoxton 200
99 Kenwood House 290–91 Huguenots 196, 200
Harley Street 285 Leighton House 267, 270 Hungerford Bridge 41, 224
Harrods 48, 49 livery halls 187 Hunterian Museum 143, 148
Hatton Garden 147 Mansion House 186, 193 Hyde Park 36, 53, 257
Hayward Gallery 222, 225 Marble Hill House 329
Health 340–41
insurance 334–5
Marlborough House 96–7
Old Curiosity Shop 143, 148 I
vaccinations 335 Old Royal Naval College Ice rinks
Heathrow Airport 336, 337 304–5, 309 Alexandra Palace 323
Henry VII 62, 329 Orleans House 328 Hyde Park 257
Westminster Abbey 74 Osterley Park House 330 Somerset House 129
344
ID 341
Imperial College 259 L Maps (cont.)
A Short Walk: Greenwich
Imperial War Museum Lambeth Palace 231 308–9
226–7 Language 335 A Short Walk: Hampstead
Inner Temple 140, 141 Leadenhall Building (the 296–7
Inns of Court 140–41, “Cheesegrater”) 189 A Short Walk: Kensington and
148–9 Leadenhall Market 190 Holland Park 270–71
see also Holborn and Leather Lane Market 147 A Short Walk: Lincoln’s Inn
the Inns of Court Lee Valley VeloPark 312 148–9
Institute of Contemporary Arts Leicester Square 115 A Short Walk: Marylebone
96 Leighton House 267, 270 282–3
Insurance 334–5 LGBT+ A Short Walk: Soho and
Islington see King’s Cross, Pride in London 58 Trafalgar Square 120–21
Camden and Islington Soho 119 A Short Walk: South
Itineraries 26–31 Libraries Kensington 258–9
2 Days 28–9 British Library 55, 168 A Short Walk: Southwark
7 Days 30–31 London Library 95 216–17
24 hours 26–7 Wellcome Library 160 A Short Walk: St James’s
Lincoln’s Inn 140, 141 100–101
J A Short Walk 148–9

Lincoln’s Inn Fields 143, 148, 149
A Short Walk: Whitehall and
Westminster 84–5
Jewel Tower 77, 80, 84 Literature 54–5 Beyond the Centre 311
Jewish Museum 171 Little Venice 268 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia
Johnson, Samuel 46, 135, 144 Livery halls 188 142–3
Dr Johnson’s House 146 Local customs 341 Chelsea and Battersea 234–5
Jones, Inigo London Aquatics Centre 312 the City 174–5
Banqueting House 82, 85 London Bridge 41, 217 Covent Garden and the
Charlton House summer London Central Mosque 32, 280 Strand 124–5
house 323 London City Airport 336, 337 Explore London 14–15
Covent Garden 126 London Coliseum 133 Greenwich and Canary Wharf
Queen’s Chapel 97 London Dungeon 229, 230 300–301
Queen’s House 304, 309 London Eye 65, 224, 228–9 Hampstead and Highgate
London Film Festival 45 288–9
K London Film Museum 133

London Marathon 39, 58, 96
Holborn and the Inns of Court
138–9
Keats, John 293 London Museum of Water & Kensington, Holland Park and
Keat’s House 295 Steam 330–31 Notting Hill 262–3
Kensington Gardens 36, 52–3, London Silver Vaults 147 Kew Gardens 319
256 London Transport Museum 131, King’s Cross, Camden and
Kensington, Holland Park and 135 Islington 166–7
Notting Hill 23, 260–71 London Underground 64, 338 Mayfair and St James’s 88–9
A Short Walk: Kensington London Zoo 277 Regent’s Park and
and Holland Park Lord’s Cricket Ground 279 Marylebone 274–5
270–71 Luton Airport 336, 337 Shoreditch and Spitalfields
hotels 267 196–7
map 262–3
restaurants 269 M Soho and Trafalgar Square
106–7
shopping 272 Madame Tussauds 278, 282 South Bank 220–21, 224
Kensington Square 269 Mall, the 96 South Kensington and
Kenwood House 290–91 Mansion House 186, 193 Knightsbridge 244–5
Kew Gardens 36, 318–19 Maps Southwark and Bankside
map 319 A Long Walk: Chelsea and 206–7
King’s Cross, Camden and Battersea 240–41 Whitehall and Westminster
Islington 19, 164–71 A Long Walk: Mayfair 70–71
map 166–7 102–03 Marble Arch 257
restaurants 168 A Long Walk: Regent’s Canal Marble Hill House 328–9
King’s Cross Station 169 284–5 Markets 10
Kings Place 169 A Short Walk: Bloomsbury antiques market
King’s Road 236 162–3 (Bermondsey Square) 215
Knightsbridge see South A Short Walk: The City Berwick Street Market 118–19
Kensington and 192–3 Borough Market 10, 57, 213,
Knightsbridge A Short Walk: Covent Garden 217
Knights Templar 140, 141, 149 134–5 Brick Lane 199
345
Markets (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Brixton Market 33, 328 Florence Nightingale Queen’s Gallery, the 91
Camden Lock Market 49 Museum 230 Ranger’s House – the
Camden Market 170 for children 52 Wernher Collection 305
Columbia Road Market 10, 202 Foundling Museum 160–61 Royal Academy of Arts 92–3,
Covent Garden Piazza and Freud Museum 295 100
Central Market 126–7, 135 Garden Museum 231 Royal Academy of Music
Greenwich Market 303, 308 Grant Museum of Zoology Museum 279
Leadenhall Market 190 161 Saatchi Gallery 236
Index
Leather Lane Market 147 Guards Museum 83 Science Museum 52, 252–3,
Marylebone Farmers’ Market Guildhall Art Gallery 186 258
281 Hampstead Museum 293 Serpentine Galleries 255
Old Spitalfields Market 49, 198 Handel & Hendrix in London Sherlock Holmes Museum
Petticoat Lane 198–9 99 280
Portobello Road 49, 266 Hayward Gallery 222, 225 Sir John Soane’s Museum
Smithfield Market 188–9 HMS Belfast 215 142–3
Southbank Centre Food Hogarth’s House 331 Somerset House 128–9
Market 57 Horniman Museum 324 Tate Britain 78–9
street food 57 Household Cavalry Museum Tate Modern 65, 208–9, 216
Top 5 London Markets 49 83 V&A Museum of Childhood
Marlborough House 96–7 House of Illustration 169 203
Marylebone Hunterian Museum 143, 148 Victoria and Albert Museum
A Short Walk: Marylebone Imperial War Museum 226–7 246–9, 251
282–3 Institute of Contemporary Wallace Collection 279
see also Regent’s Park and Arts 96 Wellcome Collection 160
Marylebone Jewish Museum 171 Whitechapel Gallery 200–201
Marylebone High Street 281, London Dungeon 225, 226 White Cube Bermondsey 215
282, 283 London Film Museum 130 William Morris Gallery 323
Mayfair and St James’s 17, 86–101 London Museum of Water & Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
A Long Walk: Mayfair 102–3 Steam 330–31 Museum 324
A Short Walk: St James’s London Transport Museum Wimbledon Windmill Museum
100–101 131, 135 324–5
hotels 99 Madame Tussauds 278, 282 Music
map 88–9 MCC Museum 39, 279 live 46
restaurants 96 Museum of Brands, Musical Museum 330
Medical care 340–41 Packaging and Advertising Royal Academy of Music 282
Middle Temple 140, 141 268 Royal Academy of Music
Millennium Bridge 177, 216 Museum of Comedy 159 Museum 279
Millennium Dome 65, 306 Museum of Freemasonry Royal College of Music 254,
Mobile phones 341 131 258
Monarchy 34–5 Museum of the Home 203 see also Entertainment
Money 335 Museum of London 185 Musical Museum 330
Monument 188 Museum of London Musicals 47
Multiculturalism 32–3, 65 Docklands 306–7
Museums and galleries 10
Bank of England Museum
Museum of Music 254
Museum of the Order of N
186, 193 St John 191 Nash, John
Bankside Gallery 212–13 Musical Museum 330 All Souls, Langham Place
British Museum 154–7, 162 National Army Museum 236 278
Charles Dickens Museum National Gallery 108–11 Buckingham Palace 90
54, 159 National Gallery of Art 44 Clarence House 112
Churchill Museum 81 National Maritime Museum Cumberland Terrace 281
Clink Prison Museum 214, 217 302–3, 309 Marble Arch 257
Courtauld Gallery 128, 129 National Portrait Gallery 115 Pall Mall 94
Cutty Sark 302, 308 Natural History Museum Park Crescent 283
Design Museum 264–5, 270 34, 250–59, 251 Piccadilly Circus 115
Dulwich Picture Gallery 325 Old Operating Theatre 212 Regent’s Park 276–7, 282
Estorick Collection of Modern Orleans House Gallery 329 Trafalgar Square 114
Italian Art 170 Photographers’ Gallery 119 National Army Museum 236
Fan Museum 305 Pitzhanger Manor House and National Gallery 108–11
Faraday Museum 99 Gallery 330 Top 5 Paintings 110
Fashion and Textile Museum Pollock’s Toy Museum 160 National Maritime Museum
215 Postal Museum 160 302–3, 309
346
National Portrait Gallery 115 Parks and gardens 12 Public transport 337–8
National Theatre 222, 224, 229, Battersea Park 238–9 children 53
231 Burlington Gardens 92 etiquette 341
Natural History Museum 34, Chelsea Physic Garden 237 prices 336
250–51, 258 Coram’s Fields 53, 161 Pubs and bars 13
Top 5 Unmissable Exhibits 250 Dulwich Park 325 Beyond the Centre 322, 331
Nature reserves for children 52–3 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 161
Camley Street Natural Park Fulham Palace 331 the City 189
37, 169 Green Park 97 Covent Garden and the
Walthamstow Wetlands 37 Greenwich Park 303 Strand 132
Neal Street 130, 134 Hampstead Heath 290–91, Greenwich and Canary Wharf
Neal’s Yard 130, 134 296 305
Nightlife Hampton Court 314–15 Hampstead and Highgate 295
Soho 119 Holland Park 53, 266, Holborn and the Inns of Court
see also Entertainment; 270–71 145
Pubs and bars Hyde Park 36, 53, 257 London on Tap 42–3
Notting Hill 268 Inns of Court 140–41 music 47
see also Kensington, Holland Jubilee Gardens 224 rooftop 50
Park and Notting Hill Kensington Gardens 36, Soho and Trafalgar Square 118
Notting Hill Carnival 11, 32–3, 52–3, 256 Southwark and Bankside
58–9, 268 Kew Gardens 36, 318–19 213, 217
Lincoln’s Inn Fields 143, Top 4 Historic Pubs 43
O 148, 149
London for Green Spaces
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
146–7
O2 Arena 306 36–7 Purcell Room 222, 225
Old Bailey 145, 189 Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
Old Compton Street 119
Old Curiosity Shop, the 143,
38, 312–13
Regent’s Park 53, 276–7, 282 Q
148 Richmond Park 329 Queen Anne’s Gate 82
Old Operating Theatre Museum rooftop gardens 51 Queen Elizabeth Hall 220, 225
212 St James’s Park 36, 53, 95, 96 Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
Old Royal Naval College 304–5, Sky Garden 189 38, 312–13
309 Syon House 329 Queen’s Chapel 97
Old Spitalfields Market 49, 198 Victoria Embankment Queen’s Gallery, the 91
Old Vic, The 231 Gardens 132 Queen’s House 304, 309
Olympic Games 38, 65 Victoria Park 239, 322
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
38, 312–13
see also Nature reserves
Parliament Hill 290 R
Olympic Stadium 313 Parliament Square 81 Rail travel 336–7, 338
One Canada Square 307 Passports 334 Ranger’s House – the Wernher
Opening hours 335 Personal security 340 Collection 305
Opera 46, 129, 133 Petticoat Lane 198–9 Reading Room (British Museum)
Orleans House Gallery 329 Pharmacies 340 156, 157
Osterley Park and House 330 Photographers’ Gallery 119 Regent’s Canal 169, 170,
Oxford Street 48, 280 Piccadilly Circus 101, 114–15 268, 322
Oyster Card 338 Pickpockets 340 Regent’s Park 53, 276–7, 282
Pitzhanger Manor House and Regent’s Park and Marylebone
P Gallery 330
Police 340
23, 272–81
A Long Walk: Regent’s Canal
Palaces Pollock’s Toy Museum 160 284–5
Alexandra Palace 322–3 Portobello Road 49, 266 A Short Walk: Marylebone
Buckingham Palace 90–91 Postal Museum 160 282–3
Eltham Palace 324 Postal services 341 hotels 277
Fulham Palace 331 Potter, Harry 169 map 274–5
Hampton Court 35, 314–17 Warner Bros. Studio Tour shopping 281
Kensington Palace 256 320–21 Regent Street 48
Kew Palace 35 Prices Remembrance Sunday 59, 81
Lambeth Palace 231 average daily spend 334 Restaurants 13
Palace of Westminster 76–7, public transport 336, 337 Beyond the Centre 321, 328
80 tipping 335 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 161
St James’s Palace 94, 100, 101 Primrose Hill 171 Chelsea and Battersea 238
Pall Mall 94, 101 Proms, the 46–7, 255 Chinatown 113
Parking 339 Public holidays 335 the City 191
347
Restaurants (cont.) St George’s, Bloomsbury 159, 163 Shopping (cont.)
Covent Garden and the St James’s see Mayfair and Mayfair and St James 95
Strand 127, 128, 131 St James’s Regent’s Park and
Greenwich and Canary Wharf St James’s Palace 94, 100, 101 Marylebone 281
303 St James’s Park 36, 53, 95, 96 shopping arcades 97
Kensington, Holland Park and St James’s Square 94–5, 101 Shoreditch and Spitalfields
Notting Hill 269 St John’s Smith Square 46, 83 202
King’s Cross, Camden and St Katharine Cree 191 Shoreditch and Spitalfields
Islington 168 St Katherine Docks 190–91 20, 194–203
Index
London for Foodies 56–7 St Leonard’s Church 202 map 196–7

Mayfair and St James’s 96 St Margaret’s Church 80–81, 84 restaurants 199
Michelin-starred 56, 57 St Martin-in-the-Fields 46, 114 shopping 202
riverside 41 St Marylebone Parish Church Sir John Soane’s Museum 142–3
rooftop 51 278, 282 Sky Garden, The 189
Shoreditch and Spitalfields 199 St Mary-le-Bow 176, 187, 192 Smithfield Market 188–9
Soho and Trafalgar Square St Mary-le-Strand 132 Smoking 341
113, 115 St Mary’s, Battersea 239 Soane, John 143, 169, 186, 325,
South Kensington and St Pancras International 64, 169 330
Knightsbridge 249 St Pancras Old Church and Soho and Trafalgar Square 17,
Southwark and Bankside 214 Graveyard 168 104–19
see also Food and drink St Paul’s Cathedral 51, 63, A Short Walk: Soho and
Rich Mix 202–03 176–9, 192 Trafalgar Square 120–21
Richmond 10, 329 St Paul’s Church 129, 135 map 106–7
Richmond Park 329 St Sophia’s Cathedral 269 pubs and bars 118
Ritz Hotel 96, 100 St Stephen Walbrook 176, 187, restaurants 113, 115
Rooftop venues 50–51 192 Somerset House 128–9
Rose Playhouse 213 Savoy Hotel 130 South Bank 12, 21, 219–31
Rosetta Stone 154, 155, 157 Science Museum 52, 252–3, 258 map 220–21
Royal Academy of Arts 92–3, 100 Top 5 Unmissable Exhibits Southbank Centre 65, 222–5
Royal Academy of Music 253 South Kensington and
Museum 279 Sea Life London Aquarium 224, Knightsbridge 22, 242–59
Royal Albert Hall 46–7, 64, 229 A Short Walk: South
254–5, 258 Senate House 55, 162 Kensington 258–9
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Serpentine Gallery 255 map 244–5
see Kew Gardens Serpentine, the 257 restaurants 249
Royal College of Art 254, 258 Seven Dials 130, 134 Southwark and Bankside 21,
Royal College of Music 254, 258 Shaftesbury Avenue 118 204–17
Royal Courts of Justice (the Law Shakespeare’s Globe 210–11, A Short Walk: Southwark
Courts) 144, 149 216 216–17
Royal Exchange 186, 193 Shakespeare, William 62, 98, map 206–7
Royal Festival Hall 222, 223, 141, 168 pubs and bars 213
224, 225 Hampton Court 316 restaurants 214
Royal Greenwich Observatory Rose theatre 213 Southwark Bridge 216
303 Shakespeare’s Globe Southwark Cathedral 212, 217
Royal Hospital Chelsea 238 210–11, 216 Speakers’ Corner 257
Royal Mews 91 statue (Leicester Square) Specific requirements,
Royal Opera House 126, 129, 135 115 travellers with 335
Royalty 34–5 Westminster Abbey 74 Speed limit 338
Rugby 39 Shard, the 51, 189, 214–15 Spencer House 94, 100
Rules of the road 336, 339 Sherlock Holmes Museum 280 Spitalfields see Shoreditch and
Russell Square 55, 158–9, 163 Shopping Spitalfields
auction houses 98 Sports and outdoor activities
S Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 159

bookshops 54–5, 100, 118,
ice rinks 129, 257, 323
Lee Valley VeloPark 312
Saatchi Gallery 236 159, 281 London for Sports Fans 38–9
Safety for children 52 Lord’s Cricket Ground 279
government advice 334 Greenwich and Canary Wharf Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
personal security 340 303 38, 312–13
St Andrew, Holborn 147 Holborn and Inns of Court 146 swimming 257, 290, 312
St Bartholomew-the-Great 189 Kensington, Holland Park and Stansted Airport 336, 337
St Bride’s 145, 176 Notting Hill 272 Summer Exhibition (Royal
St Clement Danes 144, 149 London in Fashion 48–9 Academy) 92, 93
St Ethelreda’s Church 147 London Silver Vaults 147 Sutton House 323
348
Swimming VAT refunds 341 West End Theatre 12, 47
Hampstead Heath 290 Victoria and Albert Museum Westminster see Whitehall and
London Aquatics Centre 312 246–9, 259 Westminster
Serpentine 257 Victoria Embankment Gardens Westminster Abbey 72–5, 84
Syon House 36, 327 132 Coronation 73, 75
Victoria Park 239, 322 evensong 72
T Victoria, Queen 34, 64, 75, 90,

144
Westminster Cathedral 51, 83
Whispering Gallery (St Paul’s
Tap water 340 Albert Memorial 255 Cathedral) 178, 179
Tate Britain 78–9 The Old Vic 231 Whitechapel Gallery 200–201
Tate Modern 65, 208–9, 216 Royal Albert Hall 255 Whitehall and Westminster 16,
interactive art 208 Victoria and Albert Museum 68–85
Taxes 341 246 A Short Walk: Whitehall and
Taxis 338 Visas 334 Westminster 84–5
Telephone services 341 hotels 80
Temple Bar Memorial 144–5, 149
Tennis 39, 325 W map 70–71
Wi-Fi 341
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Walks Wigmore Hall 281
Museum 324 A Long Walk: Chelsea and Wildlife
Thames Barrier 10, 307 Battersea 240–41 Camley Street Natural Park
Thames Path 10, 40 A Long Walk: Mayfair 37, 169
Thames, River 102–03 children’s zoo (Battersea
boats 339 A Long Walk: Regent’s Canal Park) 239
flooding 307 285–5 city farms 53
London on the River 40–41 A Short Walk: Bloomsbury London Zoo 277
the South Bank 224 162–3 Sea Life London Aquarium
Theatre A Short Walk: The City 224, 229
for children 53 192–3 Walthamstow Wetlands 37
West End 12, 47, 115, 118, A Short Walk: Covent Garden William Morris Gallery 323
133 134–5 Wimbledon 39, 324
see also Entertainment A Short Walk: Greenwich Wimbledon Lawn Tennis
Tickets 308–9 Museum 324
London Eye 228 A Short Walk: Hampstead Wimbledon Windmill Museum
public transport 338 296–7 324–5
theatre 46, 115 A Short Walk: Kensington World War I 64, 81
Wimbledon 325 and Holland Park 270–71 War Memorial (Borough High
Time zone 340 A Short Walk: Lincoln’s Inn Street) 217
Tipping 335 148–9 World War II 64–5
Tower Bridge 40, 41, 64, 188 A Short Walk: Marylebone Churchill War Rooms 81
Tower Hill 180, 188 282–3 HMS Belfast 215
Tower of London 35, 180–83 A Short Walk: Soho and Wren, Christopher 63, 176
Trafalgar Square 114 Trafalgar 120–21 Flamsteed House 303
see also Soho and Trafalgar A Short Walk: South Hampton Court 314, 316
Square Kensington 258–9 Kensington Palace 256
Train travel 336–7, 338 A Short Walk: Southwark Marlborough House 96
Travel 216–17 Old Royal Naval College
getting around 336–9 A Short Walk: St James’s 304–5, 309
government advice 334 100–101 Royal Hospital Chelsea 238
Trooping the Colour 11, 34–5, A Short Walk: Whitehall and St Andrew, Holborn 147
59, 82 Westminster 84–5 St Bride’s 145, 176
Tube, the 64, 338 Capital Ring 37 St Clement Danes 144, 149
Turner Prize 79 getting around London 339 St James’s Church 95, 100
Thames Path 10, 40 St Lawrence Jewry 190
U Wallace Collection 279

Warner Bros. Studio Tour:
St Mary-le-Bow 176, 187,
192
Upper Street 171 The Making of Harry Potter St Paul’s Cathedral 176,
320–21 178–9
V Websites 340
Wellcome Collection 160
St Stephen Walbrook 176,
187, 193
V&A see Victoria and Albert Wellington Arch 98
Museum
V&A Museum of Childhood 203
Well Walk 293, 297
Wesley’s Chapel-Leysian Y
Vaccinations 335 Mission 198 Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese 146–7
349
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Ltd 75bc, 77tc, 180br; Jeremy Hoare 294bc; Tondo Taddei (16th century) 93tr; Universal
Angelo Hornak 179cl, 179cr, 179bl; Ianni History Archive / UIG 63br.
Dimitrov Pictures 90–91b; Yanice Idir 119tc;
imageBROKER / Helmut Meyer zur Capellen Coca Cola London Eye: Dave Bennet 229cl.
246br, / Werner Lang 320cl; Imagedoc 52bl;
incamerastock 49crb; INTERFOTO 64br, 77tl; Courtesy of BFI: 45cl.
Jansos 12bl, 22tl, 232–3; Benjamin John 93br,
162cl, 278t; Johnny Jones 53cr; Bjanka Kadic © DACS 2018: SUPERFLEX © DACS 2018
246clb; John Kellerman 176–7; Sung Kuk Kim One Two Three Swing! at Tate Modern, London
47b; Norman Krimholtz 170bc; Elitsa Lambova 208–9b, 216bl.
155tl; Peter Lane 280–81b; LatitudeStock
225cla; Lebrecht Music & Arts 110br, 179tr, 183c; Depositphotos Inc: georgios 64bl; jovannig
Geraint Lewis 211cla; London Picture Library 26cr; masterlu 51b; VictorHuang 32br.
350
Dorling Kindersley: Max Alexander 52–3t. claudiodivizia 184–5t; DavidCallan 182bl;
Angelina Dimitrova 144t; DonaldMorgan
Dreamstime.com: Igor Abramovych 227crb; 285br; elenacastaldi77 26bl; elenachaykina 13t;
Absente 155cra; Adeliepenguin 283br; Elenathewise 95t; garyperkin 292–3b; helovi
Andersastphoto 115tl, 154–5b; Anyaivanova 30–31c; IR_Stone 190t; ivanastar 6–7b; Jchambers
114b; Rafael Ben Ari 156cla; Aivita Arika 217tl; 185cl; johnkellerman 41cl; Lana2011 276bl;
Anthony Baggett 99cb, 143br; Beataaldridge marcduf 26t, 118tl; matthewleesdixon 83b;
189tr, 313tl; Jaswant Bhopal 55cl; Philip Bird 85br; MichaelUtech 108cr, 193tl; MivPiv 97ca, nata_
John Braid 308–9t; Claudiodivizia 10ca, 79bl; Ricky zhekova 182clb; Natasha108 11br; Nikada 4,
Deacon 239bl, 329b; Chris Dorney 60br, 78, 148bl, 10–11b; oversnap 11t, 34–5t; Paolo Paradiso
179crb, 256bl; Elenachaykina 31tr, 328t; Alexey 113tr; Pauws99 130br; PicsFactory 163cr; Plan-T
Fedorenko 137crb; Fintastique 227bl; Eric Flamant 314–15t; RomanBabakin 92cra; sjhaytov 227clb;
58bl; Fuzja44 214–15b; Ben Gingell 58br; I Wei Starcevic 8cl; stockinasia 12tl, 126–7t, 135tl, 223clb
Huang 51c, 322–3t, 323cr; Imrandr 226; Irstone / Tate Modern, London / SUPERFLEX © DACS 2018
39c, 40–41b; Shahid Khan 2–3; Alexandra King One Two Three Swing! 216bl; taikrixel 72–3; track5
324tl; Georgios Kollidas 176bl; Kristina Kostova 200b, 307br; VictorHuang 290-91b; whitemay
111br; Lj1980s 212bl; Charlotte Leaper 28crb, 81bc, 127bl; Willbrasil21 28t; ZambeziShark 91c.
127crb; Amanda Lewis 202–3b; Madrabothair
130t, 202t; Phillip Maguire 312bc; Ac Manley London Coliseum: 133crb
222–3t, 312clb; Marcorubino 259cr; Markwaters
65bl; Timothy Mbugua 36–7t; Lucian Milasan 73cl; London Design Museum: Gareth Gardner 265cr;
Minacarson 161bl; Chris Mouyiaris 8cla, 17cb, Gravity Road 265cla; Hufton + Crow 264–5b, 265tr.
104–05; Dmitry Naumov 191bl; Tuan Nguyen
304b; Dilyana Nikolova 251; Andrey Omelyanchuk Museum of London: 185br.
80b; Onefivenine 60bl; Photo London Uk 276-77b; The Trustees of the Natural History Museum,
Fesus Robert 229tl; Elena Rostunova 199bl; Jozef London: 250cl, 250bl, /Lucie Goodayle 250bc.
Sedmak 95bl; Christopher Smith 22cb, 242–3;
Spiroview Inc. 279tc; Tinamou 111t; Tose 82–3t; The Photographers’ Gallery: Heather Shuker /
Wei Huang 113cra, 256–7t; Wiktor Wojtas 170t. Installation images from Deutsche Börse
Photography Foundation Prize 2018 118–19b.
Getty Images: AFP / John Stillwell 65cra; Robert
Alexander 62br; Barcroft Media 147br; Dave Puppet Theatre Barge: Gren Middleton 53bl.
Benett 79br; Daniel Berehulak 318br; Gaelle Beri
46br; Bettmann 64–5t; Victor Cardoner 13cr; Matt Rex by Shutterstock: Ray Tang 93cl; View
Cardy 211ca; Classic Rock Magazine 255b; Carl Pictures / Grant Smith 158br; Lucy Young 171b.
Court 248bl; Culture Club 64t, 64cr, 181bc; DEA /
G. Wright 319cra; DigitalVision / Matteo Colombo Robert Harding Picture Library: Arcaid 305tr;
116–7; Siobhan Doran 54tl; Dave Etheridge- Peter Barritt 129b; Eurasia 81t; Markus Lange
Barnes 47cl; EyeEm / Alex Marinelli 24bl, 298–9; 252–3b.
Fine Art 180bc; Stuart Gleave 112–13b; Anthony
Harvey 249bl; Heritage Images 63t, 249tr, 315fbl; Royal Academy of Arts, London: David Parry
Hufton+Crow 312bl; Hulton Archive 61bl, 62cr, 92–93b
63bl; Mike Kemp 248tr; Dan Kitwood 161clb; Andy
Linden 12–13b; Matthew Lloyd 179ftr; Lonely Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London:
Planet Images 94bl; Loop Images / Neil Tingle Gideon Hart, 2019 / Installation View Sweet Harmony:
279br; Peter Macdiarmid 168bl; Andy McGowan Rave Conrad Shawcross, Seana Gavin 236–7b.
268–9t; Moment / Susan Walker 326–7; oversnap
24tl, 286–7; Peter Phipp 210–11b; Print Collector courtesy Science Museum Group: © Plastiques
60–61t, 62tr, 74bl; Stephen Robson 33cl; Neil Photography 253c.
Setchfield 42br, 282tr; Henrik Sorensen 13br;
UniversalImagesGroup 62tl, 62bl. Shutterstock: mubus7 30–31t; Padmayogini 211tl.
Historic Royal Palaces: 181cr, 315cl, 315br, Courtesy of the Trustees of Sir John Soane’s
315fbr, 316cl, 316clb; Nick Guttridge 181cl, Museum/Caro Communications: Gareth
182crb; Richard Lea-Hair 315crb; James Gardner 142cra, 142–3b.
Linsell-Clark 314br; Robin Forster 316cla.
Sky Garden: 50–51t.
iStockphoto.com: acmanley 30cla;
Alphotographic 149tl, 169bl, 209tl; Anatoleya Somerset House: James Bryant Photography 45br.
296bl; Leonid Andronov 76cra; anyaivanova
180–81t; Bikeworldtravel 59c, 306–7t; Bombaert SuperStock: DeAgostini 79cra; Food and Drink
19cb, 164–5; borchee 26crb, 332–3; bpperry 57cr; Mauritius 181fbl.
145b; Dan Bridge 292tr; Francesco Cantone 28cr,
chameleonseye 229br; chris-mueller 44bl; Tate Modern: 209tr; Iwan Baan 209cla.
351
TM & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.
Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.:
Harry Potter characters, names and related
indicia are trademarks of and © Warner Bros.
Entertainment Inc. All Rights Reserved. 321cra. This edition updated by
Contributor Darren Longley
Truman Markets: Haydon Perrior 199tr
Senior Editor Alison McGill
ZSL London Zoo: 277tr. Senior Designers Stuti Tiwari Bhatia,
Tania Da Silva Gomes, Laura O’Brien
Photographic Reference The London Aerial Project Editors Dipika Dasgupta, Lucy
Photo Library, and P and P F James. Sara-Kelly
Editors Nayan Keshan, Manjari Thakur, Avanika
Front flap images: Assistant Designer Bandana Paul
Alamy Stock Photo: Garden Photo World /
Senior Picture Researcher
David C Phillips br; Enrico Della Pietra t; Jansos
Sumita Khatwani
bl; AWL Images: Alex Robinson c; Getty Images:
oversnap cra; iStockphoto.com: oversnap cla. Picture Researcher Vagisha Pushp
Jacket Coordinator Bella Talbot
Sheet map cover images: Jacket Designer Laura O’Brien
Alamy Stock Photo: John Kellerman. Senior Cartographic Editor
Mohammad Hassan
Cover images: Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar
Front and Spine: Alamy Stock Photo: John
DTP Designer Rohit Rojal
Kellerman.
Back: 4Corners: Alessandro Saffo cl; Alamy Senior Production Editor Jason Little
Stock Photo: John Kellerman b; AWL Images: Production Controller Rebecca Parton
Nadia Isakova c, Alex Robinson tr. Managing Editors Shikha Kulkarni,
Hollie Teague
For further information see: www.dkimages.com Deputy Editorial Manager Beverly Smart
Managing Art Editors Bess Daly,
Cartographic Data ERA-Maptec Ltd (Dublin) Priyanka Thakur
adapted with permission from original survey
Art Director Maxine Pedliham
and mapping by Shobunsha (Japan).
Publishing Director Georgina Dee
Illustrators:
Brian Delf, Trevor Hill, Robbie Polley, Ann Child,
Gary Cross, Tim Hayward, Arghya Jyoti Hore,
Fiona M Macpherson, Janos Marffy, David More,
Chris Orr, Richard Phipps, Rockit Design, Michelle
Ross, John Woodcock.
First edition 1993
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
One Embassy Gardens, 8 Viaduct Gardens, London SW11 7BW
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
1450 Broadway, Suite 801, New York, NY 10018
Copyright © 1993, 2021 Dorling Kindersley Limited
A Penguin Random House Company
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A NOTE FROM DK EYEWITNESS for any material on third party websites, and cannot
The rapid rate at which the world is changing is guarantee that any website address in this book will
be a suitable source of travel information.
constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness team on our
toes. While we’ve worked hard to ensure that this A CIP catalog record for this book
edition of London is accurate and up-to-date, we is available from the British Library.
know that opening hours alter, standards shift, prices A catalog record for this book is available
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stead. So, if you notice we’ve got something wrong or ISSN: 1542 1554
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EYEWITNESS

Mayfair and St James’s..................... 86 South Bank ............................................218

Soho and Trafalgar Square ......... 104 Chelsea and Battersea..................232

Covent Garden South Kensington

Holborn and the Kensington, Holland Park

King’s Cross, Camden

Shoreditch and Spitalfields ..........194 Beyond the Centre .......................... 310

NEED TO KNOW 332

Left: The skyscraping Shard in Southwark

Reasons to Love London .........................10

Explore London .............................................. 14

Getting to Know London .......................... 16

London Your Way ......................................... 32

A Year in London ..........................................58

A Brief History ............................................... 60

For all its pomp and ceremony, London has

PARKS AND GARDENS 8

This guide divides London into 17 colour-

WHITEHALL Best for

The seat of government for a millennium, Westminster Home to

SOHO AND Best for

Trafalgar Square can lay strong claim to being the Home to

of markets, independent shops and

KING’S CROSS, Best for

of shopping and dining options

weekend. It is also the historical heart

SHOREDITCH Best for

These districts have attracted and spawned a once Home to

At night this is the liveliest part of

vehicles, often derided as Chelsea

SOUTH KENSINGTON Best for

AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE Home to

HOLLAND PARK AND neighbourhoods

NOTTING HILL Home to

REGENT’S PARK Best for

AND MARYLEBONE open-air theatre

With one of London’s more high-brow high streets, a Home to

Hampstead and Highgate have

Though it has a distinct city centre, the sprawling beaten path

1 Looking towards the

1 Canalboats cruising along

Day 1 Evening If you’ve pre-booked tickets,

BAPS Shri Swaminarayan

Vibrant Chinatown, the

parade Trooping the Colour is

The stunning Natural

Trooping the Colour, a

Visitors exploring the

view of famed Buckingham

The exquisite Kew Gardens,

Sifting for creepy- crawlies at

A Walk on the Wild Side

with corporate guests and

The Queen Elizabeth

The Sporting Calendar

Pounding the pavements

Follow the Thames Path

From the Water

Some of the London-

in East Finchley, which opened in 1912, are

Big Screen Scenes

Film fans on their way to

The shop at the

Settling down to watch an