Purple Hedgehog pattern

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Dear fellow crochet lover,

First of all, thank you so much for wanting to make my Hedgehog and I hope that you
will enjoy recreating her as much as I loved designing her for you! I am more than happy
for you to gift or sell any items made from this pattern but would love if you could provide
a link to my Etsy shop “Pampinostore” and credit @pampino_hm as the designer.

Much love, time and effort have gone into designing this amigurumi pattern for you and
would appreciate if you do not share, reproduce or sell this pattern either in its entirety or
in parts. I always love seeing your finished creation, so please do use the hashtag
#pampinostore and #pampino_hm on Instagram!

Never hesitate to contact me through my Etsy shop should you have any questions with
regards to the pattern and I will do all I can to help you as best as I can! Keep creating
cuteness with stitches!

With love, Nazeli

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PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS: This pattern is written using American terminology and is
worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. If Hedgehog is made using the
materials described, she will be 12cm tall from the top of her head to the base of his body.

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

Materials.

1. Basic Yarn Acrylic Angora Gold 100g/ 500m, #01 (creamy) or #160 (honey) (20%
wool, 80%acrylic)
2. Additional yarn Alize Kid royal 50g/500m, #67 (milky), or #62 (cream) or #219
(champage)
3. Yarn for the spines: Alize decofur#1361 (purple)
4. Yarn for sweater Alize Angora Gold pink, yarn for scarf and flower Alize Bella 100%
cotton (white, green and yellow).
5. Crochet hook in accordance with the yarn you use (2.5 mm for for body and
spines, 1mm for the alize cotton yarn (flower)
6. Fibrefill / toy stuffing
7. Stitch markers, darning and embroidery needles
8. Knitting needles 3.5mm
9. eyes
10. glue gun
11. pet brush
12. brown soft pastel or eyeshadow for the eyes

ABBREVATIONS for crochetting: ch = chain | dc = double crochet | dc-inc = double

crochet increase | dec = decrease | hdc = half double crochet | hdc-inc = half double
crochet increase | inc = increase | rnd = round | sc = single crochet | sk = skip | sl =
slip stitch | st = stitch

ABBREVATIONS for knitting: Co=cast on, K= knit, P-purl, 2Ktog= knit 2 sts together,
RS= right side, WS= wrong side, YO= yarn over, …Gauge- 5row=2cm

A VERY QUICK GUIDE TO THE CROCHET STITCHES USED IN THIS PATTERN:

1. Chain (ch): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through loop on hook.

2. Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch (there
should be 3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through both loops left on hook (there
should be 2 loops left on hook), yarn over, pull loop through remaining loop on hook.
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3. Double crochet increase (dc-inc): Work two double crochets into the same stitch. 4.
Decrease (dec): I prefer to use the “invisible” decrease. For this, insert hook into front
loop of first stitch (from the front and under). Repeat into front loop of next stitch. Yarn
over, pull loop through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull loop through final 2 loops
on hook.

5. Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch
(there should be 3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through all three loops on the
hook.

6. Half double crochet increase (hdc-inc): Work two half double crochets into the same
stitch.

7. Increase (inc): Work two single crochets into the same stitch.

8. Skip (sk): Skip the next stitch, or the number of stitches specificed in the pattern. 9.
Magic ring: Wrap yarn around fingers to form a loop. Insert hook through middle of
loop. Pull working end of yarn through ring and chain the required number of stitches
through. Pull the yarn ends to close the loop.

10. Single crochet (sc): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch (there should
be 2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through both loops on hook.

11. Slip stitch (sl): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch and loop on hook.

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Body

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]

Rnd6: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7-14: sc in all 36 st [36] 8 rows

Rnd 15: (Sc in each of next 4 st,)dec x 6 [30]

Rnd 16: sc in all 30 st [30]

Rnd 17: (Sc in each of next 3 st,)dec x 6 [24]

Rnd 18-19: sc in all 24 st (24)

Rnd 20: (Sc in each of next 2 st,)dec x 6 [18

Stuff the body

Rnd 21-25: sc in all 18 st (18)

Rnd 26: (Sc in each of next 1 st,)dec x 6 [12]

Rnd 27: dec x 6 [6] FO, and leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body

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Now about the spines.we can do that with 2 methods.

1st like I do on this pictures.We must do slip stitches around body like this photo.

Behind of body do sl st with alize decofur purple yarn from the top of body to the base.

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With pet brush brush the body.

The 2nd way to do the spins, is crochet a hat with alize decofur yarn and 3,5 crochet hook.
With this way we can do the head spins.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Start to crochet FLO.

Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7-9: sc in all 36st (36)

And sew this part on head

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Head

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7-12: sc in all 36st (36) 6 rows

Rnd 13: (Sc in each of next 4 st,)dec x 6 [30]

Rnd 14: (Sc in each of next 3 st,)dec x 6 [24]

Rnd 15: (Sc in each of next 2 st,)dec x 6 [18

Stuff the head

Rnd 16: (Sc in each of next 1 st,)dec x 6 [12]

Rnd 17: dec x 6 [6] FO

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Nose

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]

Rnd 3-4: sc in all 12 st [12]

Rnd 5: dec [6]

Rnd 6-7: sc in all 6

Rnd8 : dec and Fo

Don’t stuff the nose, sew it on head, fixed eyes, and with brown yarn embroidery the nose.

Legs (x2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: 5 sc, inc [7]

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Rnd 3: 6sc, inc [8]

Rnd 4-5: sc in all 8 sc[8]

Rnd 6: 6sc, dec [7]

Rnd 7: 5sc, dec [6]

Rnd 8: don’t stuff the legs, FO and leave a long tail for sewing the legs on body

Arms (x2)

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2-9: sc in all 6 st [6]

Rnd 7: 3dec, don’t stuff the arms, FO and leave a long tail for sewing the arms on body

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Sew all parts, and with brown soft pastel draw legs and arms, head, eyes like on photo,
brush.

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Knit sweater

A b b r e v i a t i o n s:
M1A: MAKE 1 STITCH AWAY. I use the thumb method to make a backwards loop in
the working yarn and place this loop onto the right needle, so the working yarn is
pointing away from you.
M1T : MAKE 1 TOWARDS. Make a loop with the working yarn so the tail is pointing
forwards/towards you.
Note: In order to get a neat finish you will need to purl into the back loop of this stitch on
the following row.
YF: YARN FORWARD : Bring the yarn to the front of the work between the needles
before working the next stitch – once you knit the next stitch this will create a loop over
the top of the needle which when worked into on the next row will create an eyelet that
serves as a buttonhole.
Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same
way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand needle and knit together through
the back loops.
K2TOG : Knit 2 stitches together
P2TOG : Purl 2 stitches together
P2TOG TBL: Purl 2 stitches together through the back loops
And please note that the recommended cast on throughout is a CABLE CAST ON
......................................................................
M a t e r i a l s: • To work this sweater you will need any type and color yarn. I use Alize
Angora Gold and 2mm knitting needles.
F i n i s h e d s i z e: approx 7cm (2¾ inches) from neck to hem
(Note that if you choose to work the sleeves in the round you do not need to cut this
extra length as then the sleeves are worked consecutively rather than concurrently).
Starting at the neck and working downwards to the hem.
Cast on 29 stitches leaving a short tail for weaving in later. Note there is a button hole
made at the end of row 2.
row 1: (wrong side) Knit
row 2: (button hole row) K27, YF, K2tog (29 stitches)
row 3: Knit
row 4: K4, M1T, K2, M1A, K3, M1T, K2, M1A, K7, M1T, K2, M1A, K3, M1T, K2, M1A,
K4 (37 stitches)
row 5: Purl (see note about M1T stitches on Page 1)
row 6: K5, M1T, K2, M1A, K5, M1T, K2, M1A, K9, M1T, K2, M1A, K5, M1T, K2, M1A,
K5 (45 stitches)
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row 7: Purl
row 8: K6, M1T, (K2, M1A) twice, K3, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K11, M1T, (K2, M1A)
twice, K3, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K6 (57 stitches)
row 9: Purl
row 10: K7, M1T, (K2, M1A) twice, K7, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K13, M1T, (K2, M1A)
twice, K7, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K7 (69 stitches)
row 11: Purl row 12: K8, M1T, (K2, M1A) twice, K11, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K15, M1T,
(K2, M1A) twice, K11, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K8 (81 stitches)
row 13: Purl
row 14: K9, M1T, (K2, M1A) twice, K15, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K17, M1T, (K2, M1A)
twice, K15, (M1T, K2) twice, M1A, K9 (93 stitches)
row 15: Purl * * Note: if you prefer to work the sleeves and lower part of the body in the
round then follow notes on page 3 **
row 16: K10, M1T, K25 Turn, leaving the remaining 58 stitches on the left needle (fig. 5)
row 17: P23 and turn, leaving the remaining 13 stitches on the right needle. Continue on
these 23 sts only to complete the first sleeve, like so: work 10 rows (P1, K1) rows 18-
27.
Cast off in ribbing Cut the work leaving an 8 inch tail.
That is the first sleeve worked (fig. 6).
Now continue across the body with the stitches still held on the left needle:
row 16 (continued): Re-join K2, M1A, K19, M1T, K25, turn leaving the remaining 12 sts
on the left needle
row 17: P23 and turn, leaving remaining stitches on the needle. Continue on these 23
stitches only to complete the second sleeve. That is the second sleeve worked.
Next continue across the body with the 12 stitches still held on the left needle:
row 16 (continued): K2, M1A, K10 There are now 51 stitches on the needle (fig. 7),
continue working on these to complete the body, like so:
row 17: P12, P2tog, P23, P2tog, P12 (49 stitches)
row 18: K11, M1T, K3, M1A, K21, M1T, K3, M1A, K11 (53 stitches)
row 19B: Purl
row 20B: Knit
row 21B: Purl
row 22B: Knit
row 23B: Purl
row 24B: Knit
row 25B: Purl
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row 26B: Knit
row 27B: (P1, K1) 26 times, P1
row 28B: (K1, P1) 26 times, K1
row 29B: (P1, K1) 26 times, P1
row 30B: Cast off in ribbing
Cut the work from the ball, leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later.
F i n i s h i n g: Before I sew up the seams I like to block the sweater to make it neat. I
usually do this by carefully steam blocking but if you prefer wet blocking that is fine too.
After blocking thread the tapestry needle with the cast-off tail for one of the sleeves and
join the seam up to the armpit using mattress stitch (fig. 8).
Repeat with the other sleeve and then use the cast off tail from the body to join the
centre back seam, leaving the top part of it open so that when the button is undone the
sweater can be easily taken on and off.
Weave in all the yarn ends inside and trim excess. Finally, sew a tiny button on the
opposite side to the button hole (fig. 9) and your sweater is done and ready to pop on
your animal (fig. 10)
......................................................................
...
** T o w o r k t h e b o d y i n t h e r o u n d: Work the sweater flat, as detailed on Page
2, up to and including row 15, this will allow an opening so that it will fit over the animals
head.
Then continue as follows:
row 16: M1T, K2, Place the next 23 stitches on waste yarn/stitch holder (fig. 11), K2,
M1A, K19, M1T, K2, Place the next 23 sts on waste yarn/stitch holder, K2, M1A, K10
There are now two sets of 23 stitches for each sleeve held for working later and 51
stitches on the needle. Transfer these 51 stitches to a circular needle or DPNS and
continue working on them complete the body, following the instructions below (fig. 12):
round 17: Slip 1, K11, K2tog, K23, K2tog, K11, Knit the next stitch together with the
slipped stitch from the beginning of the round (48 stitches)
round 18: Change to Yarn A, K10, M1T, K3, M1A, K21, M1T, K3, M1A, K11 (52
stitches)
rounds 19-21: Knit 3 rounds rounds 22-25: Knit 4 rounds, cut Yarn from the work
leaving a short tail for weaving in later
round 26: Knit 1 round
rounds 27-29: Work 3 rounds like so: (K1, P1) 26 times row 30: Cast off in K1, P1
ribbing Cut the work from the ball, leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later.

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 fig. 5 fig. 6 fig. 7

fig. 8 fig. 9 fig. 10

Scarf

You can crochet or knit the scarf .

Chain 80sc, turn and work from the other side.

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Flower

For crocheting the flower we need green, yellow, white cotton yarns, I use alize miss yarn
and 1,50 mm crochet hook.

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1 Rnd :With yellow yarn 6sc in magic ring (6)

2Rnd : (inc, 1sc) x 3 time (9)

Change color white, (chain 6 sc, turn, 5sc, sl st) x 9 time

With green yarn chain 6sc, turn, 3hdc, 1sc, 3sc to the first st, 1sc, 3hdc (leave)

You need a wire frame, to wrap a green yarn to the wire frame, with glue gun fixed the
leave and the flower.

Watch the video, thank you 

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On Instagram https://www.instagram.com/pampino_hm/

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