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Alexander McQueen (brand)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Alexander McQueen is a British luxury fashion house


founded by designer Alexander McQueen in 1992. Its current
Alexander McQueen
creative director is Sarah Burton.[2]

History
Type Subsidiary of Kering
The Alexander McQueen brand was founded by designer
Traded as Euronext: KER FP (htt
Alexander McQueen in 1992.[3] The house's early collections
ps://www.euronext.co
developed its reputation for controversy and shock tactics
m/en/products/equitie
(earning the title "l'enfant terrible" and "the hooligan of English
s/FR0000121485-XPA
fashion"), with trousers aptly named "bumsters" and a
R)
collection entitled Highland Rape.[4][5] Alexander McQueen
staged lavish and unconventional runway shows, such as a Industry Fashion
recreation of a shipwreck for his Spring 2003 collection, Spring Founded 1992
2005's human chess game, and the Fall 2006 show, Widows of
Founder Alexander McQueen
Culloden, which featured a life-sized hologram of supermodel
Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric.[6] In total, Headquarters London, United
McQueen designed 36 collections for his London label, Kingdom
including his MA graduate collection.[7] Key people Gianfilippo Testa[1]
(CEO)
During his time as head designer, McQueen was awarded the Sarah Burton
title "British Designer of the Year" four times between 1996 (Creative Director)
and 2003;[8] he was also appointed a CBE and named Owner Kering
International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion
Designers in 2003.[9] Website www
.alexandermcqueen
In December 2000, the Gucci Group acquired 51% of his .com (http://www.alexa
company and appointed him as Creative Director[10] before ndermcqueen.com)
launching stores in London,[11] Milan,[12] New York,[13] Los
Angeles[14] and Las Vegas. On 31 October 2011, Alexander McQueen opened its first store in Beijing with
a runway show.[15] Following the takeover, the brand's catwalk presentations were relocated from London
to Paris, beginning with the Spring/Summer 2002 collection with The Dance of The Twisted Bull on 6
October 2001.[16]

Alexander McQueen launched its first menswear collection in Spring/Summer 2005[17] and continues to
show its collections during Milan Fashion Week. The company launched its first women's pre-Spring
collection on the runway with its men's collection on 22 June 2008[18] and has since continued releasing
cruise collections since Spring 2010.[19]

Alexander McQueen launched an online store in the US in 2008.[20] This was later expanded with an
online store for the UK market in 2010.[21]
McQueen's suicide was announced on the afternoon of 11 February
2010. At the time of his death, the company had debts of £32
million[22][23] despite posting profits from handbag sales in
2008.[24]

Sarah Burton, who was McQueen's deputy for 14 years, became


the creative director for the Alexander McQueen label after his
death. The company continued to expand globally in the following
years, and its product range also expanded. The number of
McQueen stores worldwide had increased to 100 by the end of
2020, with revenues estimated to be €500m in 2020.[25]

McQ
On 27 July 2006, the company launched a lower-priced diffusion
line McQ.[26] The new line carries men's and women's ready-to- An Alexander McQueen dress from
wear and accessories, was exclusively designed by Lee Alexander his last show, on display at the
McQueen, manufactured and distributed worldwide by SINV SpA Victoria and Albert Museum, London,
under the terms of a five-year licence agreement with Alexander in 2009.
McQueen.[27] Promoted as a denim line, the focus of McQ is a
youthful target market.[28] The Spring/Summer 2011 was the final
collection in collaboration with SINV SpA. Pina Ferlisi was
appointed as the creative director for the line in June 2010.[29]

Following the expiration of the contract with SINV SpA with the
Spring/Summer 2011 collection, the brand announced on 11
October 2010 that it would take control of the McQ diffusion line
by creating a new internal team with the creative direction of Pina
Ferlisi, under the leadership of Alexander McQueen creative
director Sarah Burton.[30][31] For the first campaign for the re-
A display from "Savage Beauty", a
acquired line, photographer Niall O'Brien collaborated with McQ
retrospective of Alexander McQueen
by driving across the American Northwest capturing images, which
designs at the Metropolitan Museum
evoked the McQ attitude.[32]
of Art, New York City, 2011.
In August 2011, the company announced it would launch its first
McQ standalone boutique in London in 2012.[33] In November
2011, it announced that McQ would be presented at London Fashion Week for the first time in February
2012, and that the new four-storey Georgian townhouse boutique will stock womenswear, menswear, and
accessories.[34]

Collaborations
Between 1996 and 2001, Alexander McQueen collaborated with jeweller Shaun Leane on bespoke
jewellery pieces for the catwalk presentations.[35][36]

In January 2003, Alexander McQueen collaborated with perfumer Jacques Cavallier[37] to launch his first
fragrance Kingdom, which was launched on the designer's birthday 17 March.[38] A limited edition version
of the fragrance was launched in 2004.[39] The company launched its second fragrance, My Queen three
years later in 2006.[40] On 10 October 2003, Alexander McQueen
collaborated with Michael Clark to stage the Spring 2004 collection.[41] On
15 October 2003, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Björk at Fashion
Rocks where the Fall 2003 collection was presented at the Royal Albert
Hall.[42][43]

In 2004, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Safilo via a licensing deal


to launch an eyewear range.[44][45] The 2010 collection featured the
house's trademark skull detail.[46] The same year, the company collaborated
with American Express to launch a limited-edition version of its ultra-
exclusive Centurion Card.[47] The card is available by invitation only to
AMEX Platinum card members.[48] To launch the card, McQueen hosted a
retrospective of his collections from 1995 till Fall 2003.[49]

In 2005, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Puma to produce a line of


men's and women's footwear launched in Spring 2006.[50] The Alexander
McQueen PUMA line is founded on the union of tradition and technology,
Alexander McQueen brand
with juxtaposing influences.[51] In 2008, the line's Fall 2009 collection was
dress, 2011.
fully expanded to include men's and women's clothing and accessories,[52]
with a collaboration with film director Saam Farahmand to produce a 4-
minute movie Ghost as an ad campaign for the collection.[53][54]

In 2007, Alexander McQueen became the first brand to participate in MAC's promotion of cosmetic
releases created by fashion designers.[55] The collection was released on 11 October and reflected the looks
used on the Autumn/Winter McQueen catwalk. The inspiration for the collection was the Elizabeth Taylor
movie Cleopatra, and thus the models sported intense blue, green, and teal eyes with strong black liner
extended Egyptian-style.[56]

In 2008, Alexander McQueen collaborated with mass market retailer Target as McQ Alexander McQueen
for Target.[57] The company was the first collaboration between Target and an international designer.[58]
McQueen cited Leila Moss of The Duke Spirit as his muse for the collection.[59] The collection was
launched on 4 March 2009,[60] with the band playing at the launch party.[61] The same year, Alexander
McQueen collaborated with Samsonite to produce luggage formed using a mould of a human ribcage and
sternum on the front and spine on the back.[62] Other pieces in the collection apply animal patterns like
crocodile to the bags skin using laser cutting technology.[63] With the catwalk presentations, Alexander
McQueen collaborated with Philip Treacy to produce hats for the Spring 2008 collection,[64] and again
with the Fall 2009 collection.[65]

During first semester of 2009, McQueen also collaborated with dancer Sylvie Guillem, director Robert
Lepage and choreographer Russell Maliphant, designing wardrobe for theater show "Eonnagata", directed
by Robert Lepage. The film "Sylvie Guillem, on the edge" produced by French production company A
DROITE DE LA LUNE, traces whole history of the creation of the show, from first rehearsals which took
place in Quebec until world premiere which was held in 2008 at Sadler's Wells theater in London.[66]

On 6 October 2009, the company collaborated with SHOWstudio to stream its Spring/Summer 2010
collection Plato's Atlantis live on the company's website.[67][68] The shoes from that collection were later
featured on the SHOWstudio website.[69] The same year, the company collaborated with Unkle who
produced music for the McQ Autumn/Winter 2009 collection[70] titled McQ. The collaboration was a
success, and was extended a second season for the McQ Spring/Summer 2010 collection where the
promotional CD was given out in a McQ press goodie bag.[71]
In June 2010, Visionaire magazine's 58th issue, titled Spirit: A Tribute To Lee Alexander McQueen, was
released as a tribute to the late founder.[72] The issue featured images and discussions with editors who had
met McQueen in 2003 to discuss the collaboration which never materialised.[73] The issue also features
contributions from Lady Gaga, Steven Klein, Nick Knight and Mario Testino[74] Only 1,500 numbered
copies were made, with pages made from seeded paper, which will sprout wildflowers once planted
signifying the ongoing legacy of McQueen.[75]

Controversies
Alexander McQueen first caused controversy with his Spring/Summer 1995 collection which featured his
signature "bumster trousers". At the time, the trousers were described as indecent as they barely covered the
natural downward curve of the buttocks.[76] He followed this by entitling his Autumn/Winter 1995
collection Highland Rape which he explained was about the "rape" of Scotland by the English, a subject
that had a personal resonance as his family is of Scottish descent.[77] The collection featured tattered
dresses made of scraps of tartan and chiffon and a tampon-strewn skirt.[78]

In 1998, Alexander McQueen photographed Aimee Mullins and sent her down the catwalk with intricately
carved wooden legs – making her the first amputee to ever be featured on the catwalk.[79] For the untitled
Spring/Summer 1999 catwalk show, Shalom Harlow's white cotton dress was sprayed by car robots as she
was spun around a platform.[80] Animal rights activists and heavy police presence due to a reported bomb
scare were present at the Autumn/Winter 2000 Eshu catwalk show, due to the extensive use of fur and
leather in the collection.[81]

McQueen was accused of misogyny following the Autumn/Winter 2009 The Horn of Plenty catwalk
show[82] where models with huge, overdrawn red and black lips were compared to a blow-up sex doll and
hats made from found objects and rubbish like aluminium cans and duct tape implied models themselves
were trash.[83][84] Similarly, the Autumn/Winter 2010 An Bailitheor Cnámh menswear catwalk show
featured men in masks and netted headgear that alluded to sadomasochism or bondage, and one of the suits
was printed with human skulls and bones.[85]

For the Spring/Summer 2010 Plato's Atlantis catwalk show, models refused to wear the now iconic 12 inch
high armadillo shoes due to safety fears.[86] One of the models who refused, had fainted in the
Spring/Summer 2009 Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection catwalk show after being squeezed into a
corset which was too tight.[87] Lady Gaga wore a pair in her music video for "Bad Romance"[88][89] and
created a version in chocolate encrusted with sparkly sprinkles for her Christmas shop in 2011.[90]

Selfridges department store in London caused controversy when they unveiled a window display showing
one of his designs being hanged from the gallows.[91] The store later apologised, saying that "presenting a
fashion item from the new Alexander McQueen collection hanging was never intended to be linked to the
designer's untimely death or how he died."[92]

In October 2010, The Hell's Angels filed a lawsuit against the company for "misusing its trademark winged
death heads symbol"[93] in several items from its Autumn/Winter 2010 collection. The lawsuit was widely
reported across all media,[94][95][96][97] The US$2,325 "Hell's Angels Knuckleduster Box clutch"
handbag[98] and US$560 "Hells Angels Pashmina" scarf[99] was also named in lawsuit.[100] The lawyer
representing Hells Angels claimed "This isn't just about money, it's about membership. If you've got one of
these rings on, a member might get really upset that you're an imposter."[101] The group is demanding that
the companies stop producing the products, recall any items in distribution and pay damages totalling three
times whatever profit they made on the products.[102] SAKS refused to comment, Zappos had no
immediate comment and the company's parent company, PPR, could not be reached for comment.[97] The
company settled the case with the Hell's Angels after agreeing to remove all of the merchandise featuring
the logo from sale on their website, stores and concessions and recalling any of the goodies which have
already been sold and destroying them.[103][104][105]

Similarly, costume designer Jany Temime was exposed for copying a dress from the Autumn/Winter 2008
collection The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, for her work on Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.[106]
Temime had claimed that she "wanted it to be a witch wedding dress but not a Halloween dress. The dress
is white but it needed to have something fantastic to it. So there is the phoenix [motif], the bird, which is a
symbol of love in a way because there is rebirth, love never dies, it is born again." However, the birds on
the McQueen original were actually peacocks, and although Temime did manage to change the crest on the
bird's heads to make them more 'phoenixy', she neglected to alter any other detail of the birds, including
their rather obvious peacock feathers. [107] The story was widely reported by the fashion
media.[108][109][110][111][112][113][114]

Post-Lee Alexander McQueen through today


On 18 February 2010, Robert Polet, the president and chief
executive of the Gucci Group, announced that the Alexander
McQueen business would carry on without its founder and creative
director.[115] He also added that a McQueen collection would be
presented during Paris Fashion Week.[115]

On 27 May 2010, Sarah Burton, McQueen's right hand design aide


since 1996, was announced as the new creative director of the
Alexander McQueen brand,[116] with further plans to launch a
men's underwear collection in June 2010.[117] The underwear line
featured iconic prints from the McQueen archive and the logo on
the waistband,[118] with a percentage of the launch collection of
Alexander McQueen underwear to be given to various AIDS
charities around the world.[119]

Burton launched her first menswear show Pomp and Circumstance An Alexander McQueen dress
under the McQueen brand in June 2010 to generally positive designed by Sarah Burton, Autumn
reviews, which noted how low-key the event was.[120] She 2019 collection
launched the brand's womenswear resort collection shortly
after,[121] which was praised for lightness and having 'a woman's
touch'.[122] Burton showed her first womenswear show on 5 October 2010 in Paris, where she said her
vision for the brand would be "lighter".[123] The show was praised for being one of the strongest shows at
Paris Fashion Week,[124] "full of McQueen trademarks and ideas" and a "far more optimistic
sensibility".[125] Michael Jackson's "I'll Be There" was played at the finale of the show.[126]

Creative director Sarah Burton designed the dress worn by Catherine Middleton during her wedding to
Prince William, Duke of Cambridge on Friday 29 April 2011.[127]

An analysis of online chatter shows that Alexander McQueen creates the most intense feelings of brand
passion amongst wedding dress designers in the NetBase Brand Passion Index.[128]

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City hosted a posthumous exhibition of McQueen's work in
2011 titled Savage Beauty. Despite being open for only three months, it was one of the most popular
exhibitions in the museum's history.[129] The exhibition was so successful that Alexander McQueen fans
and industry professionals worldwide began rallying at Change.org to "Please Make Alexander McQueen's
Savage Beauty a Traveling Exhibition" to bring honour to McQueen and
see his vision become a reality: to share his work with the entire world.[130]
This exhibition celebrated McQueen's vision and creativity. It comprised
one hundred of its most famous designs, taken from its archive in London.

The exhibition Savage Beauty was brought to the Victoria & Albert
Museum in London from 14 March 2015 to 2 August 2015. [131]

On 28 November 2011, Sarah Burton won the Designer of the Year at the
2011 British Fashion Awards.[132]

As of January 2014, Harley Hughes is Alexander "McQueen's head of


men's wear design" during the Fall 2014 fashion show.[2] After the show, An example of McQueen's
both Sarah Burton, the creative director, and Harley Huges, took a bow to ability to structure, saw,
the public.[2] and create visionary
garnments
In July 2015, Catherine Middleton (now Catherine, Princess of Wales),
wore an all-cream Alexander McQueen outfit for Princess Charlotte's
christening.[133]

In May 2016, at UNESCO Headquarters, Alexander McQueen brand won Prix Versailles for its rue Saint-
Honoré boutique, in Paris.[134][135]

Ownership and shareholdings


Kering

Creative Directors
Director Tenure

Sarah Burton 2010–present


Lee McQueen 1992-2010

Retail Stores
AMQ and McQ operated by Alexander McQueen Ltd. and Kering S.A., with YOOX S.p.A. as online
retailer since 2011.[136]

Asia: 23 (China, Hong Kong (5), Macau (3), Japan, Korea, Thailand, Philippines, Malaysia,
Indonesia)
New Zealand: 1 (Auckland)
Australia: 1 (Melbourne)
Europe: 7 (London (2), Milan, Moscow (2), Paris, & Vienna)
Middle East: 4 (Abu Dhabi & Dubai (2), Qatar)
United States: 6 (Dallas, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, & San Francisco)
Canada: 1 (Toronto)

Other/Department stores
Marais Australia
Harrods
Harvey Nichols
Joyce
Saks Fifth Avenue
Bergdorf Goodman
Selfridges
Neiman Marcus
Bloomingdale's
Barney's New York
Nordstrom
Tsum
David Jones
Harrolds

List of Alexander McQueen collections


Alexander McQueen collections each featured a title revolving around the specific theme for each
collection and show. The tradition ended for Fall 2010 with McQueen's death, and subsequent collections
were launched without titles. The list excludes pre-collections and accessories lines.

Womenswear mainline catwalk collections: Menswear mainline catwalk collections:

1992 Graduate Collection – Jack The Autumn/Winter 2004 – Textist[150]


Ripper Stalks His Victims [137] Spring/Summer 2005 – Untitled[151]
Autumn/Winter 1993 – Taxi Driver [137] Autumn/Winter 2005 – Untitled[151]
Spring/Summer 1994 – Nihilism [138] Spring/Summer 2006 – Killa[152]
Autumn/Winter 1994 – Banshee [138] Autumn/Winter 2006 – Untitled[152]
Spring/Summer 1995 – The Birds [139] Spring/Summer 2007 – Harlem[153]
Autumn/Winter 1995 – Highland Rape[140] Autumn/Winter 2007 – The Forgotten[153]
Spring/Summer 1996 – The Hunger[35] Spring/Summer 2008 – Please, Sur[154]
Autumn/Winter 1996 – Dante[141] Autumn/Winter 2008 – Pilgrim[154]
Spring/Summer 1997 – Bellmer La
Spring/Summer 2009 – Love You[155]
Poupee[142]
Autumn/Winter 2009 – The McQueensbury
Autumn/Winter 1997 – It's A Jungle Out
Rules[155]
There[143]
Spring/Summer 2010 – An Alexander Film
Spring/Summer 1998 – Untitled (Originally
Directed by David Sims[156]
The Golden Shower)[77]
Autumn/Winter 2010 – An Bailitheor
Autumn/Winter 1998 – Joan[144] Cnámh[156]
Spring/Summer 1999 – No. 13[145]
Autumn/Winter 1999 – The Overlook[35] Spring/Summer 2011 – Pomp and
Spring/Summer 2000 – Eye[35] Circumstance[158]
Autumn/Winter 2011 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2000 – Eshu[81]
Spring/Summer 2012 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2001 – Voss[146]
Autumn/Winter 2012 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2001 – What A Merry-Go-
Spring/Summer 2013 – Untitled
Round[147]
Autumn/Winter 2013 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2002 – The Dance of The
Spring/Summer 2014 – Untitled
Twisted Bull[148]
Autumn/Winter 2014 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2002 –
Supercalifragilistic[148] Spring/Summer 2015 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2015 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2003 – Irere[149]
Spring/Summer 2016 – The Sea
Autumn/Winter 2003 – Scanners[149]
Spring/Summer 2004 – Deliverance[150]
Autumn/Winter 2004 – Pantheon ad
Lucem"[150]
Spring/Summer 2005 – It's Only a
Game[151]
Autumn/Winter 2005 – The Man Who Knew
Too Much[151]
Spring/Summer 2006 – Neptune[152]
Autumn/Winter 2006 – The Widows of
Culloden[152]
Spring/Summer 2007 – Sarabande[153]
Autumn/Winter 2007 – In Memory of
Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692[153]
Spring/Summer 2008 – La Dame Bleue[154]
Autumn/Winter 2008 – The Girl Who Lived
in the Tree[154]
Spring/Summer 2009 – Natural Dis-tinction
Un-natural Selection[155]
Autumn/Winter 2009 – The Horn of
Plenty[155]
Spring/Summer 2010 – Plato's Atlantis[156]
Autumn/Winter 2010 – Angels &
Demons[157](Unofficially titled)
Spring/Summer 2011 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2011 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2012 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2012 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2013 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2013 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2014 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2014 – Untitled
Spring/Summer 2015 – Untitled
Autumn/Winter 2015 – The Spirit of the
Rose

[159]

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External links
Alexander McQueen Website (http://www.alexandermcqueen.com)
Alexander McQueen's McQ Website (http://www.mcq.com/)
Alexander McQueen (brand) (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/brands/alexander-mcqu
een) – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Alexander_McQueen_(brand)&oldid=1152935179"

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