Wall Climbing Part 4

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY KANPUR
PHYSICAL EDUCATION SECTION
Online PE- 102AA Class On
WALL CLIMBING- Part 4
By
PUSHPENDER SINGH
Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

GENERAL WARM-UP Warm-up, it’s an
activity you do to
heat up the body
and prepare it for
the exercise that
follows ahead. It's
always necessary
for the athlete to
warm-up before the
play.

WHY IS WARM-UP NECESSARY?
Initially the blood flow in the

body is low and sudden
movements might damage the
muscles.
• JOGGING
• STRIDING
• STRETCHING

WARM-UP
• SKIPPING
• PUSH-UP
• SQUAT JUMPS

WARM-UP
• HIGH KNEE
• MOUNTAIN CLIMBER
• BUTT KICKS
• JUMPING JACKS
• BASIC CRUNCHES

• Increases your
BENEFITS OF WARM-UPS body temperature.
• Increase in
metabolic rate.
• Reduce the stress.
• Reduce lactic acid
levels.
• Reduce probability
of muscle injuries.

WHAT IS STRENGTH?
The ability or strength to perform a task is what we call strength. This
strength means that there is so much talent inside it, about which thing or
how much ability is there to do any work.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF
STRENGTH?
1. MAXIMAL STRENGTH
2. EXPLOSIVE STRENGTH
3. STRENGTH ENDURANCE
TWO MORE DIMENSIONS

There are a further two dimensions
to categorise strength
• STATIC STRENGTH
• DYNAMIC STRENGTH

HOW CAN YOU INCREASE YOUR
POWER-STRENGTH?
1. PULL-UP BAR
2. HANGING BOARD (LADDER)
3. HANGBOARD (MASTER
GRIPS)

1. PULL-UP-BAR
In wall climbing you sometimes have

to face a lot of difficulty. Sometimes
we are not able to push our arms up.
So for this you have to do a great
workout.
NEGATIVE PULL-UP

CLASSIC PULL-UP
How to do it: Grab the bar with an

overhand grip with your hands just
wider than shoulder-width apart. Let
your body hang straight down with
your arms fully extended.

KIPPING PULL-UP
How to do it: Exactly the same as the

classic move, except you swing your
legs to generate the momentum to pull
to the top of the move.

CLOSE-GRIP CHIN-UP
How to do it: Take a narrow grip

with your hands so that your
palms are in front of your face.

PULL-UP WITH LEG RAISE
How to do it: As you reach the top of

the move, raise your legs out in front of
you until they are parallel to the floor
before lowering.

ROUND THE WORLD
How to do it: Pull yourself to the top.

As you approach the bar, lift up and to
the left before moving across to the
right and completing a semi-circle
before lowering.

2. HANGING
BOARD (LADDER)
Finger Positions
One school of thought
for hangboard training is
that you should always
train an open-hand grip,
but that doesn’t mimic
real-world climbing.

FINGER POSITIONS
OPEN HAND
HALF CRIMP FULL CRIMP

THE WORKOUT
STEP 1. Find an open-hand grip that

you can hang onto for 10 to 12
seconds. You can add or reduce
weight,
Sample Hangboard
Progression
Week 1 (x2)
Open hand: 3 sets of 3-6-9
Full crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9
Half crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9

THE WORKOUT
STEP 2. Rest a while, somewhere between
10 and 60 seconds is fine. The actual time
isn’t important. The rule of thumb in
strength is this: Long rests lead to great
gains in neurological factors such as
recruitment and firing rate;
Sample Hangboard Progression

Week 2 (x2)

THE WORKOUT
STEP 3. Follow the rest with a six-second
open-hand hang. Rest again, longer if you
need to. Follow this rest with another hang,
this time nine seconds long. After the nine-
second hang, you’ve completed one ladder
of 3-6-9.

Week 3 (x2)
Physical
PhysicalEducation
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THE WORKOUT
STEP 4. Do this session once more

during the week. In the second week,
increase to four sets per hand
position twice a week.

Week 4 (x2)
Open hand: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12
Full crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12
Half crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12

THE WORKOUT
STEP 5. After completing the fourth

week, assess your strength, and then
restart the program with slightly
increased loads, meaning add some
weight to your hangs.

HANGING BOARD
(LADDERS): A FEW
RULES
Don’t get pumped. If

you are pumped or
sweating, you aren’t
resting long enough
between hangs.

3. HANGBOARD (MASTER GRIPS)
Before beginning any training

plan, check in with your doctor
or certified training professional.
Hangboard training works best
inside a larger training program
that includes climbing time as
well as time spent improving
your general fitness and
endurance.

TIPS FOR PROPER
HANGBOARD TECHNIQUE Make sure you
can reach the
hangboard
without having
to jump to it.
Avoid
shrugging your
shoulders or
locking your
elbows.

MASTER GRIP POSITIONS The beauty of
any training
JUG session is that
you can
customize it
based on your
goals and the
weaknesses
you’re trying to
target.

MASTER GRIP POSITIONS
JUG: These
are the
easiest holds
and are great
for warming
up.

SLOPERS:
Get as much
of your hand
on the hold
as possible
and push
down on it.

POCKET: You
can vary the
intensity by using
one to four fingers
in the holes as
well as train with
different sets of
fingers out of the
hold.

PINCHES: If your
hangboard has
pinch holds, grip
the hold with your
thumb on one side
and your fingers on
the other. Wider
pinches are harder.

EDGES:
Edges range
from deep to
really shallow
(more
difficult). Use
an open hand
position.

SAMPLE HANGBOARD WORKOUT
There’s no shortage of
hangboard training
programs and many
schools of thought about
how to do it. Some
training programs are
designed around specific
boards while other
boards offer training
apps.
WARM UP: It’s
important to warm
up first before you
start hanging. Do
about 20 to 30
minutes of easy
climbing or
bouldering or low
traversing on a
climbing wall.

POWER-ENDURANCE
• THE PROBLEM
• THE SOLUTION
Ability to continue long hours of hard labor. (Without

dissatisfaction) Being patient allows you to demonstrate a
skill repeatedly, or to participate in an activity for a long time.

HOW IT WORKS
Ifyou’ve been training local

endurance, you can most likely
climb easy terrain for a while
without getting pumped.
However, multiple hard moves
in a row might still cause you to
pump out and fall.

HOW IT WORKS
Power-endurance training is
best done after establishing a
solid base of strength and
power training, because it will
convert some of that maximum
strength into endurance. You’ll
lose a little strength and power
in the process, but it’ll pay off on
longer routes where you’re
fighting a pump.

Picking three to five boulder CIRCUIT
problems, each three grades
below your limit, is a good place
to start. Instead of climbing the
same problem back-to-back,
climb each problem once, only
coming off the wall to move
between them. This will be your
circuit.
How To Increase Your Power-endurance?

Specifically Power-endurance Training For
Climbers

4×4
To complete a
4x4, pick four
different
boulder
problems about
three grades
below your
How To Increase Your Power-endurance? limit.

PUSH YOUR
LIMITS
You have a
bouldering wall.
There will be at
least 300 holds.
Now until you
catch 300 holds,
you have to stay
on the wall.
How To Increase Your Power-endurance?

ADD ON
There should be
2-4 climbers, But
they should know
how to climb. It is
like a game, Start
with 2-3 moves,
in which a climber
does a thought
How To Increase Your Power-endurance? move.

POINTER
With the help of
a pointer light.
For this, you
have to play the
game with your
partner. But the
partner should
be aware of
How To Increase Your Power-endurance? your potential.

You do a cool down
exercise at the end of your
workout to get yourself out
of strenuous activity.
Cool down exercises and
stretches eliminate your
chance of injury, promote
blood flow, reduce the
stress of your heart and
other muscles.

Do these exercises
at a slower pace and FOR EVERYONE
lower intensity than
your normal
workout. Take a
deep breath as you
cool to deliver
oxygen to your
muscles, release
tension, and
promote relaxation.

ACTIVE STRETCH
Standing on your right
leg, step your left leg
forward with your toes
flexed.

HAMSTRINGS: MODIFIED HURDLER
STRETCH
Sit on the floor and
straighten your left
leg in front of you.
Bend the right
knee, placing the
sole of your right
foot against your
left inner thigh.

HAMSTRINGS: TIPOVER Stand with your
TUCK feet hips-width
distance apart.
Interlace your
hands behind your
back. Keeping
your legs straight,
bend at the hips,
tucking your chin
and bringing your
hands over your
head.
HAMSTRINGS: SEATED
FORWARD BEND Sit on the floor,
extending both legs
straight out in front of
you, legs together.

SEATED TWIST Begin seated on
your mat with your
legs extended
straight out in front
of you.
Bend your right
knee, and place
your right heel as
close to your left
sit bone as you
can.

STANDING SIDE
BEND
Stand with your feet

under your hips and
interlace your fingers
above your head with
your palms toward
the ceiling.

QUADS: STANDING
STRETCH
Stand on one leg with

your knees touching.
If you need to, grab
hold of a chair or wall
for support.

QUADS: KNEELING
STRETCH
Start off in a high

lunge position with
your right foot
forward. Then,
slowly drop your left
knee to the ground.

SHOULDER
STRETCH
Reach your left arm

across your body at
chest height. Support
the left arm with your
right elbow.

RUNNER’S LUNGE
STRETCH
From standing, step

your right foot forward,
coming into a lunge.
Place your hands just
above your right knee
for support.

TRICEPS STRETCH
Reach your right arm
overhead to lengthen
the right side of your
body. Maintain the
length as you bend
your right elbow,
bringing your fingers
to the middle of your
upper back.

DOWNWARD STRETCH Begin in a plank
pose with your
hands under your
shoulders, then
lift your pelvis up,
making a "V" with
your body. Walk
your feet toward
your hands if you
need to.

• Increase flexibility, and
BENEFITS OF COOL-DOWN promote relaxation.
& STRETCHING • Body temperature, blood
pressure and heart rate.
• Reduce lactic acid
buildup.
• Joints increase, mobility
increasing. And improve
range of motion.
• Improve all of your body’s
function and flexibility.

COMMON CLIMBING
INJURIES
Some injuries during rock climbing are common. Some injuries are easy. Which can be
easily overcome. Some injuries can be more painful.

SUBLUXATION
One of the most common
injuries among climbers is a
subluxation, otherwise
known as a partial
dislocation, and it occurs
mostly in the shoulders.

ROTATOR CUFF TEARS
In fact, this is the most
common shoulder injury
among rock climbers.
Whenever we place our
arms above our shoulders
and attempt to perform
extensive or dynamic
moves we place
unnecessary stress on our
tendons.
PULLEY TEARS
Finger pulleys are
ligaments that compress
the finger flexor tendons
onto our bones in our
fingers. Pulleys are highly
susceptible to tears during
climbing because of the
massive amounts of
weight we require them to
carry.

PULLEY TEARS: THE BEST PREVENTION
EXERCISE FOR PULLEYS TO AVOID INJURIES
This exercise
strengthens the
muscles in the hand
and the muscles
that move the
fingers. This can
help oppose
pressure on the
finger pulleys.

TENDONITIS
As climbers, we spend an inordinate
amount of time pulling on muscles
instead of pushing on them, which
invariably leads to inflamed tendons or
tendonitis.

TRIGGER-FINGER
SYNDROME
Have you ever come off a hard
day’s climb only to find that
your finger seems to either lock
up occasionally or “pop?”
That’s called trigger-finger
syndrome .

REFERENCE
1. http://parenting.firstcry.com
2. https://savitarsfoot.com/average-running-stride-length/
3. https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/amazing-benefits-of-skipping-exercises-to-include-in-your-workout/
4. https://www.risephysicaltherapy.com/blog/static-vs-dynamic-stretching
5. https://www.active.com/fitness/articles/indoor-vs-outdoor-fitness-what-s-better
6. http://thebridge.in
7. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/copy-of-tech-tips-contact-2/
8. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/training-hangboard-ladders-for-finger-strength/
9. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/how-to-use-a-hangboard-to-train-for-rock-climbing.html
10. https://m.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/rock-climbing
11. https://www.sequenceclimb.com/
12. http://www.thresholdclimbinggym.com/
13. https://trailandsummit.com/what-shoes-are-good-for-rock-climbing/
14. https://www.planetmountain.com/english/gallery/img_d.php?keyID=52340
15. https://www.theboulderfield.com/blog/2019/6/6/climbings-great-hidden-benefits-for-kids
16. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/janja-garnbret-video-her-chalkless-climb-villars.html
17. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.popsugar.com/fitness/List-Stretches-44984979/amp
18. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/321902#treatment
19. https://pathologies.lexmedicus.com.au/collection/shoulder-dislocation-and-luxation
20. https://gripped.com/profiles/indoor-weekly-prevent-the-dreaded-finger-pulley-injury/
21. https://www.physiocheck.co.uk/condition/48/trigger-finger
22. https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-climbing-pulley-injury/
23. https://m.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/rock-climbing
24. https://www.oaidocs.com/2017/06/23/common-causes-of-tendonitis/
25. https://blog.theclymb.com/out-there/5-common-climbing-injuries-fix/

THANK YOU
THAT’S ALL ABOUT
GENERAL WARM-UP
SPECIFIC CONDITIONING
AND INJURIES

Wall Climbing Part 4

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INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY KANPUR

PHYSICAL EDUCATION SECTION

Online PE- 102AA Class On

WALL CLIMBING- Part 4

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Initially the blood flow in the

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

TWO MORE DIMENSIONS

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

In wall climbing you sometimes have

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How to do it: Grab the bar with an

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How to do it: Exactly the same as the

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How to do it: Take a narrow grip

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How to do it: As you reach the top of

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How to do it: Pull yourself to the top.

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

HALF CRIMP FULL CRIMP

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

STEP 1. Find an open-hand grip that

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Sample Hangboard Progression

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Sample Hangboard Progression

STEP 4. Do this session once more

Sample Hangboard Progression

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

STEP 5. After completing the fourth

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Don’t get pumped. If

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Before beginning any training

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Ability to continue long hours of hard labor. (Without

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Ifyou’ve been training local

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

How To Increase Your Power-endurance?

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur

Physical Education Online course (PE-102AA), IIT Kanpur