Skin Preparations

Professor A B M Faroque
e-Mail: abmfaroque@yahoo.com
Cell: 0183 000 2826

1
 Skin Preparations
Cold Cream

First Cold Cream Formula from Galen (170 AD)

Purified Wax 1 Part
Olive Oil 3-4 Parts
Rose Petals q.s.
Water q.s.

Variations:
Water 5-37%
Almond Oil 50-70%
Beeswax 12-15% or
Mixed Beeswax and Spermaceti > 24%
2
BPC 1948 Formula of a Cold Cream:
(a) White Beeswax 18%
(b) Almond Oil 61%
(c) Borax 1%
(d) Rose Water 20%
(e) Oil of Rose 0.1%

1.Melt (a) in (b)

2.Dissolve (c) in (d).
Add with constant stirring (2) to (1).
Add the Oil of Rose and continue to stir
till cold.

3
In 1900, Mineral Oil to replace
Vegetable Oils:
- Ensure whiteness.
- Inhibition of rancidity.
- Uniformity of the finished product (or
Batch Homogeneity)
- Cleansing improved.
- But it modified emolliency.
Non-ionic Emulsifiers, either alone or with
beeswax-borax combination, are used.

4
 Cleansing Creams
Cleansing Creams remove soils, but do not
remove the natural oils of the skin. Thus
they do not cause 'drying' or 'defatting'
of the skin.
Properties Desirable in a Cleansing Cream,
Cleansing Milk or Cleansing Lotion:
- Leave the skin feeling "smooth" and
preferably, non-greasy.
- Readily cleanse make-up and other dirt
from the skin.
- Either be in liquid form or should readily
liquefy or soften at that temperature at
which it is used (body temperature),
in order to exert any undue "drag" on
the skin. 5
 Liquifying Cleansing Creams:
(a) Isopropyl Myristate 25.0%
(b) Mineral Oil 25.0%
(c) Petroleum Jelly 30.0%
(d) Paraffin Wax 20.0%
(e) Fragrance q.s.

1. Melt and mix together all the above

ingredients at about 65°C.
2. Cool, with constant stirring until the
mixture is a little over solidifying point.
3. Pour into jars.
6
O/W Cleansing Creams:
Mineral Oil 30.0%
Stearic Acid 10.0%
Triethanolamine 2.0%
Carbopol 934 0.5%
Water 57.5%
Preservative q.s.
Fragrance q.s.

7
W/0 Cleansing Creams:
Mineral Oil 50.0%
Paraffin Wax 5.0%
Bentone 38 0.7%
Arlacel 83 2.0%
Water 41.9%
Isopropanol 0.4%
Fragrance q.s.

8
 Cleansing Milk:
Mineral Oil 10.0%
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%
Stearic Acid 3.0%
Triethanolamine 1.8%
Preservative q.s.
Water 84.7%
Fragrance q.s.

9
 Cleansing Lotions:

Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulphate, Liquid 5.0%

Water 95.0%
Fragrance q.s.
Preservative q.s.

10
 Quality Control:
• pH
• Appearance and Smoothness
• Spreadability
• Non-Greasy
• Absence of Air Pockets
• Cleansing Property
• Emollient Property
• Absence of Allergic Ingredients
• Absence of Incompatibility
• Economy

11
 Packaging:
Cold Cream and Cleansing Cream :
• Wide mouth glass/plastic containers.
• Should be screw-type cap.
• Aluminum or plastic tubes.

Cleansing Milk or Lotion :

• Narrow mouth plastic bottles/containers.

12
 Vanishing Cream
• Contains a significant amount of oil phase,
but after rubbing the residue does not
feel greasy.
• Used as a facial cream, hand cream and
foundation cream.
• Water in the external phase.
• Although they contain soaps, pH is not
alkaline, but between 6-6.9. Because acid-
soaps are used.
• Emulsifying agent is Alkali-Stearate
and oil phase is Stearic Acid. 13
 Vanishing Cream ...............

• Jacketed Steel Kettles are better.

• Impure Steel or Copper utensils not to
be used.
• Stirrer to be used cautiously because of
aeration problem.
• Cooling by stirring is not a good practice.
• Vacuum is a must before packaging.

14
 Vanishing Cream ...............
(a) Stearic Acid 15.0%
(b) Pot. Hydroxide 0.7%
(c) Glycerin 8.0%
(d) Water 76.3%
(e) Preservative q.s.
(f) Fragrance q.s.
(1) Heat (a) to 75°C.
(2) Dissolve (b), (c) and (e) in (d) and raise the temperature of this
solution to 75°C.
Add (1) at 75°C to (2), with gentle but thorough agitation. Continue
stirring until the temperature of the mixture falls to about
40°C. Add the fragrance, stir and allow the cream to stand for
24-48 hours, occasionally turning over the top crust of cream
that forms.
Use a vacuum. After that pass the cream through a low-speed
homogenizer.
Pack in suitable containers and seal immediately to
make it air-tight. 15
 Vanishing Cream ...............
In this formula, about 3.8% of the fatty acids are neutralized.
If more (20-30% fatty acids) to be neutralized, stronger
emulsifiers are to be used.

There are many types of emulsifiers :

Sodium Hydroxide gives a harder cream.
Potassium Hydroxide gives softer cream & plenty of sheen.
Borax gives a white cream, but tends to grain.
Ammonium Hydroxide produces a soft cream, but is unpleasant to the
employees and causes discolouration (light, air, fragrance).
Triethanolamine gives a very soft cream with high sheen (Sod.
Hydroxide may correct it). Also causes discolouration of the
cream on long standing (metallic contamination, fragrance, light).
Isopropanolamines produce soft creams without any chance of
discolouration.

16
Vanishing Cream ...............
Quality Control :
Absence of gritty particles.
pH not alkaline.
Not darken on long storage.
Shiny/pearly appearance.
Absence of any black particles.
Easily absorbed by the skin.
Non-greasy or non-sticky.
Optimum viscosity.
Mildly fragrant.
Packaging :
Wide-mouth opaque plastic containers.
Air-tight non-metallic closure.
Tubes also can be used. 17
 Talcum Powders
Also called Body Powders/ Dusting
Powders/ Body Talcs.
It is popular for its sweat absorbing, cooling and fragrant
effects. Talc or Talcum is the major ingredient that
should have good slip characteristic, very fine
particles, body adhesion, absorbency and free of
bacteria.
To improve adhesion properties further, magnesium
stearate, zinc stearate, kaolin etc. are incorporated.
To improve absorbent properties magnesium carbonate,
starch, kaolin, precipitated chalk etc. are added.
Volatile oils are blended for fragrance.
Sometimes zinc oxide, ergason etc. are used
as prickly heat ingredients.
18
 Talcum Powders .........

Talc 75%
Kaolin 12%
Magnesium Carbonate 6%
Zinc Stearate 6%
Fragrances 1%

19
 Face Powders
Used to impart a smooth finish to the
skin, masking minor visible imperfec-
tions and any shine due to moisture or
oil from perspiration or from
preparations used on the skin.
It must adhere to the skin, be reasonably
resistant to the mixed secretions of the
skin, should serve as a vehicle for a
pleasing odour, should have a good
covering power, good slip, good
absorbency and effective bloom.
20
Face Powders .........

Talc 80.0%
Zinc oxide 5.0%
Zinc stearate 5.0%
Rice starch 10.0%
Fragrance q.s.

21
Thank you

22