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Proses f355 Oil
Proses f355 Oil
By:
Dave Lelonek
(Dave Rocks)
Created based on model year 1998 (355 F1 GTS), other model years may apply.
Disclaimer:
This document was created to assist others and has been created based on the procedure I
use and have proven successful. Others may use different procedures or variations to this
method.
This document is not copyright protected, please feel free to use and share with others.
If you would like to add to or comment on this document, please email me at:
dave.lelonek@amtny.com
Prices quoted in this document are from the time of creation - please realize they may not be
accurate at later dates.
Nomenclature Error: The owner's manual has the sump and tank reversed. Please note the
sump is the oil pan below the motor and the tank is the remote tank external to the motor.
Low profile floor jack and jack stands or a car lift (2-post, 4-post, scissors lift)
12mm male hex key, 3/8" or 1/2" Drive (for oil tank drain plug, "A")
[Not the easiest to find, check Harbor Freight Tools]
22mm socket, 3/8" or 1/2" Drive (for oil sump drain plug, "B")
1/4" and 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet with extensions, respective with above sockets
Note: I decided to purchase the Hill Engineering oil filter wrench from Ricambi. $86.00.
http://ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261231
3.1 Oil:
The owners manual specifies Shell Helix Ultra, SAE 5W-40. This is not always easy to find in
the US.
An equivalent and Ferrari approved oil is: Pennzoil Ultra Euro (Synthetic), SAE 5W-40, P/N:
550022576. It can be bought from Amazon.com ($39.09 per 6 quarts) or other online
resources.
NOTE: Many users state some oil foams - This oil DOES NOT FOAM!
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=75&products_id=261227
This kit contains the following parts as shown below: (quantity 1 each)
197654
178959 10300771
10257060
10261860
I recommend the Ricambi Kit, however, if you choose, parts may be ordered individually.
Note: Tank and Sump drain plugs do not require replacement each oil change. Filter and crush
washers should be replaced each oil change.
P/N: 197654
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=49 $43.48
P/N: 178959
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=207946 $13.68
P/N: 10261860
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=72 $0.90
P/N: 10300771
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=211817 $17.00
P/N: 10257060
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=194 $0.90
4.1:
Start engine and run to heat oil. It's very important to perform the oil change with hot oil as
contaminants and particles will become emulsified within the hot oil and come out of the
engine during the oil change.
Allow engine oil to exceed 158º F. If you don't have an oil temperature gauge, allow the
engine to idle for 15-20 minutes. If you have a Non-F1 model, you will have an oil
temperature gauge (F1 models do not have this gauge)
4.2:
Using a floor jack and jack stands (or car lift), raise the car to a comfortable working height.
4.3:
Rear of car
Remove Sump drain plug "A" and associated copper crush washer: (12mm male hex key)
NOTE: Have waste oil pan ready - oil will come out very rapidly!
Remove Tank drain plug "B" and associated copper crush washer: (22mm socket)
Caution! Be prepared for Niagara Falls of HOT oil! Loosen the plug and use your finger
or socket to spin it out of the last thread - do it fast and let the plug and tools drop in the
waste oil pan to avoid any burns.
Allow oil to drain from both Tank and Sump for 30 minutes to get as much out as possible.
Be patient! Allowing as much oil to drain will assure that the filter will not contain any oil upon
removal.
If you are fortunate and have a car lift, I recommend getting a large waste oil container like the
one I have as shown here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VZQYKQ/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
While waiting for oil to drain, it's a good idea to wash the under tray previously removed.
Reinstall Sump drain plug and associated copper crush washer. Be sure to always replace the
copper crush washer. Ferrari of Atlanta provided me the torque specification of 50nm (38.8 ft-
lbs).
4.9:
Reinstall Tank drain plug and associated copper crush washer. Be sure to always replace the
copper crush washer. Ferrari of Atlanta provided me the torque specification of 25nm (18.4 ft-
lbs).
Using shop towels / rags, wipe of any oil on the bottom of the tank, sump and associated parts
that may have become soiled.
4.11:
Reinstall the rear under tray. Hand tighten the nuts and screws.
4.12:
Oil filter
Using a clean shop rag, wipe any debris from the oil filter gasket seating area:
4.15:
Using fresh oil, smear a light coat of oil over the entire oil filter gasket:
Install new oil filter. The manual specifies "hand tight". However, the filter provided by Ricambi
comes with a label as shown and states to torque to 25nm (18.43 FT-Lbs). That label
corresponds with the Ferrari technical bulletin 1068 (October 2002)
Fill oil. The capacity is 10 quarts. Start off by adding 8 quarts: (You may use a funnel if you
prefer, however, it's not necessary)
After adding 8 quarts of oil, start the engine. It's a good idea to cover your driver's seat with a
seat cover or shop towel if you have been laying around the garage floor:
Watch the oil pressure gauge and be sure the pressure rises shortly after engine starting
(approx 1-3 seconds). It should read approximately 65 PSI.
Check the oil level via the dip stick, it should read "MIN".
4.19:
Add oil until the level is mid way between "MIN" and "MAX". When the proper level is reached,
replace filler cap and hand tighten.
Caution! If the filler cap is on while the car is warming up, the cap will become
extremely hot!
The system should require approximately 9 quarts of oil. Although the capacity is 10, not all oil
can be drained from the system and approximately 1 quart will remain un-drained.
Notes:
Some recommend disconnecting the Tank oil lines, however, I do not recommend this
since those connections are not designed for multiple removal cycles.
The owner's manual specifies to check the oil immediately after shutting the engine off.
This procedure is very difficult to obtain accurate, consistent readings since the time to go
from the cockpit to the oil tank will vary each time. This is a dry-sump system and their is no
harm whatsoever in checking the oil while the engine is at idle. Later model Ferrari's such
as the 430 state to check the engine oil at idle.