AATCC Journal of Research

DOI: 10.14504/ajr.8.1.4 Accepted: 03/23/2020

Improvement of Elastic Property of Circular Weft

Knit Three-Thread Fleece Fabric by Changing
Stitch Length
By Md. Shakhawat Hossain, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology, Shah Alimuzzaman, Bangladesh Univer-
sity of Textiles, and Abu Naser Md Ahsanul Haque, Daffodil International University and Deakin University

Abstract
The market demand for three-thread fleece fabric is increasing steadily due to its soft and bulky texture. Garments made
from knitted fleece fabric, such as sweaters and jackets, are generally used for outdoor wear, especially in the winter season
because of their warmth, moisture, and absorption properties. However, the elastic properties of three-thread fleece fabric
is reduced significantly after the raising operation. This study aimed to increase the elastic recovery of three-thread fabric
by changing the stitch length during the manufacturing process in industrial-scale production. The results showed that by
varying the stitch length, the elastic recovery was improved by around 9%. Hence, the developed method can be used in
textile knitting industries to improve the elastic recovery of fleece fabric.

Key Terms
Base Yarn, Elastic Recovery, Fleecy Yarn, Loop Length, Three-Thread Fleece

Introduction entangled by raising and become hard to differentiate from

Demand for knit fabrics has grown gradually since the 1970s
due to some of its special properties, such as comfortability,
easy-care, stretchability, excellent wrinkle resistance, and
fashion features.1–3 Single jersey cotton knit fabric has the
attribute of a soft hand, which makes it skin-friendly and
comfortable to wear.4 Different types of single jersey knit
fabric (commonly called derivatives) are available in the
market, such as pique, lacoste, normal terry, cross miss,
fleece, and so forth.5–8
Generally, fleece fabric has a very high GSM (gram per square
meter) when compared to other kinds of knit fabrics. Jackets
and sweaters, used commonly in cold weather, are made from
fleece. Fleece is a soft and bulky knitted fabric, defined by its
thick, soft nap and deep-pile. Technically, fleece fabrics are not
truly of pile construction. However, it can provide warmth,
and if desired, moisture-wicking and absorption as well.9 It
can insulate from the weather and drive the moisture away
from the body by wicking at the same time.
There are mainly three layers of three-thread fleece fabric:
the upper, middle, and bottom layers (Fig. 1). The upper
layer is called the face yarn or base yarn, the middle yarn is
called binding yarn, and the bottom layer is known as the
fleecy yarn. Three yarns are fed consecutively from three
different yarn positions around the cylinder of the knitting
machine.10 After fabric manufacturing, raising is mainly con-
ducted on a fleecy yarn surface, as the human body contacts
this side and provides warmth. The fleecy yarn fibers are
the base yarn on the effect side despite having been sepa-
rately supplied during knitting.11
Among the different combination of fibers, cotton-polyester
blends are very popular for producing yarn and fabric.
Polyester-cotton blended yarn is often named Chief Value
Cotton (CVC) yarn as cotton is higher than the percentage
of polyester in this particular yarn. Customers show more
attention to their suppliers who can ensure quality fabric at
a reasonable cost. In general, most fleece fabric industrially
manufactured are 260 to 420 GSM.8
A common complaint from consumers and manufacturers is
fleece’s poor elastic properties, since the elasticity of fleece fab-
ric is significantly reduced by the raising operation. Though
industrial engineers are working on this issue, there is no
reported improvement regarding this until now. The purpose
of this study was to improve the elastic recovery of three-
thread CVC fleece fabric during the industrial manufacturing
process. To address this, fleece fabrics were prepared from
different combination of stitch length and passed through
regular industrial operation (i.e., scouring-bleaching, dye-
ing, finishing, raising, stentering, and compacting) and the
changes in elastic behavior were observed.
Experimental
Materials
To manufacture three-thread fleece fabric, base yarn of 30
Ne 60/40 CVC (Square Spinning, Bangladesh), binding yarn

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 AATCC Journal of Research

of 100 Denier, 36 filament polyester (Alok, India), and fleecy from Samuda, Bangladesh. Caustic soda, hydrose, and acetic
yarn of 10 Ne, 100% carded (Square Spinning, Bangladesh) acid were purchased from Transfer Chemicals, China.
were purchased.
Fabric Manufacturing
Chemicals Cotton (70%) and polyester (30%) three-thread CVC fleece
For pretreatment and dyeing of the produced fabric, several fabrics were knitted on a single jersey circular knitting
dyes and chemicals were used. The disperse dyes Terasil Yel- machine (Gong Lih, Taiwan) at Impress-Newtex Compos-
low W6GS (C.I. Disperse Yellow 114), Terasil Red WW 3BS ite Textile Limited, Tangail, Bangladesh. The fabrics were
(C.I. Disperse Red 343), and Terasil Blue WBLS (C.I. Dis- made according to a set of values for count (for base, 30 Ne
perse Blue 165:1) were purchased from Huntsman, Germany. 60/40 CVC, for binding, 100 denier filament polyester, and
Synozol Ultra Yellow DS, Synozol Ultra Red DS, and Synozol for fleecy yarn 10 Ne 100% carded yarn) and stitch length
Ultra Navy DS dyes were purchased from Kisco, South Korea. range (for base, 4.50–4.60 mm,
Univadine DFM (levelling agent for polyester dyeing), Albatex for binding, 3.00–3.10 mm,
Table I.
AB 45 (buffer solution), Eriopon R (soaping agent), Invatex and for fleecy yarn, 1.55–1.95 Specifications of Three-Thread
AC (neutralizing agent), and Sapamine CSN (softening agent) mm), in a GLF/3.2-3T single Fleece Fabric Yarns
were purchased from Huntsman, Germany. Iglalevel BIP jersey circular weft knitting Sample Stitch Length (mm)
(levelling agent for cotton dyeing) was purchased from ANJ machine (Gong Lih, Taiwan). No. Base Binding Fleecy
chemical, Singapore. Jintexyme OEM (peroxide killing agent) The diameter of the machine Yarn Yarn Yarn
was purchased from Jintex, Taiwan. Tuscour HLF-18 (deter- was 34 in. and the machine S01 4.50 3.00 1.55
gent) was purchased from Tubingen, Bangladesh. TranSlip gauge was 20. About 10 kg S02 4.55
TF 208C (anti-creasing agent) was purchased from Transfer of each sample was made. A S03 4.60
chemicals, China. Shuntex XPA (sequestering agent) was total of 32 sample varieties S04 4.65
purchased from Shun Cheer Enterprise, Taiwan. Iglastab NSA were made and the combi- S05 4.50 1.70
(stabilizing agent) was purchased from Zebec company, Singa- nations of stitch length are S06 4.55
pore. Soda ash and 50% hydrogen peroxide were purchased shown in Table I.
S07 4.60
S08 4.65
S09 4.50 1.80
S10 4.55
S11 4.60
S12 4.65
S13 4.50 1.95
S14 4.55
S15 4.60
S16 4.65
S17 4.50 3.10 1.55
S18 4.55
S19 4.60
S20 4.65
S21 4.50 1.70
S22 4.55
S23 4.60
S24 4.65
S25 4.50 1.80
S26 4.55
S27 4.60
S28 4.65
S29 4.50 1.95
S30 4.55
S31 4.60
Fig. 1. (a) Knitted structure, (b) notation diagram, (c) needle arrangement, and (d) cam arrangement of
S32 4.65
three-thread fleece fabric.

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 AATCC Journal of Research

Fabric Pretreatment Table II.

The samples were scoured-bleached using an Athena S2 50H Fabric Diameter and GSM at Different Operation Stagesa
sample dyeing machine (Sclavos, Greece) maintaining a Sample Diameter (in.) GSM (g/m2)
No.
1:6 fabric/liquor ratio (LR). The auxiliaries (0.2 g/L of sta-

After Compacting

After Compacting
After 2nd Stenter

After 2nd Stenter

bilizing agent, 0.5 g/L of detergent, 0.5 g/L of anti-creasing

After 1st Stenter

After 1st Stenter

Greige Fabric

Greige Fabric
After Raising

After Raising
agent, 0.8 g/L of sequestering agent, and 5 g/L of soda ash)
were injected into the bath at 40 °C. Then, 0.5 g/L of caustic
soda was added at 60 °C for 5 min and run for 5 min. The
temperature was then raised to 70 °C, and 4 g/L of hydrogen S01 85.5 73.0 66.5 73.7 74.0 264 295 320 340 305
peroxide (50%) was added for 5 min and run for another S02 86.0 74.6 67.0 74.5 75.0 269 289 312 335 299
5 min. Then, the temperature was raised to 100 °C and the S03 87.0 75.3 67.5 74.0 75.5 274 283 306 330 291
bath run for 50 min more. After that, subsequent washing S04 88.5 76.4 69.5 75.6 76.3 280 278 300 325 286
of the fabric was performed, followed by neutralizing and S05 86.0 74.5 67.5 74.0 75.5 274 304 335 320 312
peroxide killing using 1 g/L of acetic acid and 0.2 g/L of
S06 87.5 75.0 68.5 74.5 76.0 279 298 331 315 306
peroxide killing agent, respectively.
S07 88.0 75.5 69.5 75.3 76.5 283 292 327 310 301

Fabric Dyeing S08 88.5 76.6 70.0 75.0 77.8 288 287 320 303 297
Dyeing of the polyester part of the fabric was done using S09 89.0 75.0 68.0 72.5 76.0 283 306 348 320 315
the disperse dyes while maintaining a 1:6 LR. The pH of S10 89.0 75.5 69.0 73.5 76.4 287 300 345 315 310
the bath was maintained at 4–4.5 and dosing with dyes S11 89.5 76.0 69.5 74.0 77.6 291 296 340 310 305
was performed for 15 min at 80 °C. The temperature was S12 90.5 77.2 70.0 75.5 78.5 296 292 335 304 300
then raised to 130 °C and dyeing continued for 40 min. S13 86.5 75.0 68.5 75.2 76.5 289 316 346 327 321
After that, the bath temperature was reduced to 80 °C S14 88.5 76.7 70.0 76.5 77.0 293 309 342 319 317
and hydrose (2 g/L) and caustic soda (2 g/L) was applied S15 90.0 77.5 70.5 77.6 77.8 297 303 335 310 310
for 20 min. After draining the bathwater, new water was S16 91.0 78 .3 71.5 78.0 78.5 302 299 330 306 304
used for neutralizing, which was performed using 1 g/L of
S17 86.5 74.5 67.5 74.0 75.0 259 295 316 295 305
acetic acid. For dyeing of the cotton part, 1 g/L of level-
S18 87.5 75.0 68.0 75.0 76.0 267 289 311 290 299
ling agent was injected at 60 °C. Then, 80 g/L of Glauber
S19 88.4 76.2 68.5 75.8 76.4 274 283 306 285 291
salt was dosed for 10 min and the machine run for 10 min
S20 89.0 77.0 70.0 76.0 77.0 278 278 300 278 286
more. After that, the dyes were added for 20 min and run
S21 88.0 75.0 68.5 74.5 76.0 271 304 335 307 312
for another 20 min. Subsequently, 20 g/L of soda ash was
S22 88.5 76.0 69.0 75.0 77.0 275 298 325 302 306
dosed at 60 °C for 5 min. Then, dyeing was continued for
20 min and the bathwater was drained. After that, neutral- S23 89.4 76.8 70.5 76.5 77.5 280 292 319 297 301

izing, soaping, and softening were conducted, and finally, S24 90.2 77.0 71.0 76.0 78.0 285 287 314 293 297

the fabric was unloaded from the machine. S25 88.5 76.5 69.5 75.5 77.0 278 306 343 316 315
S26 89.0 77.0 70.0 76.0 77.5 283 300 338 310 310
Fabric Finishing S27 90.0 77.4 71.0 77.2 78.2 287 296 333 304 305
The fabric samples were slit using a TGR FP00005B0325
S28 91.0 78.0 71.5 78.0 79.0 293 292 328 298 300
slitting machine (Bianco, Italy). After that, the samples were
S29 85.5 76.5 68.8 76.2 77.0 284 316 355 322 321
dried and finished using Platinum, an open stenter machine
S30 87.4 77.0 70.1 77.2 78.0 289 309 350 315 317
(Ehwha Glotech, South Korea) using 15% overfeed, 120 °C
S31 91.0 78.0 71.0 78.0 78.8 294 303 345 304 310
temperature, and 8 m/min speed to maintain proper diameter
S32 92.2 79.0 72.5 79.0 79.5 299 299 325 300 304
and GSM. Raising was done for all the samples at the same
a
Standard deviations for diameter and GSM were less than 0.5 and less than 2.7,
setting using a double drum GRV90 duplex raising machine respectively for all the listed data.
(Lafer, Italy). The samples were again dried and finished in
the open stenter with 40% overfeed, 120 °C temperature, and
8 m/min speed. Then, 4% compaction and 35% overfeed
were applied on all samples at 120 °C and 20 m/min speed
by a KSA 500 runner compactor machine (Lafer, Italy). The
average values (measured three times for each sample) of the
diameter and GSM of the fabric at different stages of opera-
tion are listed in Table II.

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 AATCC Journal of Research

Measurement of Elastic Recovery, Shrinkage, Table III.

and Spirality Extensibility of Three-Thread Fleece Fabric Prepared from Different
Stitch Length Combinationsa
The samples were tested on a GT-C13B CRE (constant rate of
Sample Stitch Length (mm) Extensibility at Extensibility at
elongation) elastic recovery testing machine (Gester, China) No. 15 N Force 15 N Force
Base Binding Fleecy
using the BS EN 14704-1:2005 method applying a 15 N load.12 Yarn Yarn Yarn
(%) (mm)
Since all samples were weft knitted, both extensibility and
S01 4.50 3.00 1.55 43.9 ± 0.30 a 143.9 ± 0.30 a
recovery percentages were measured in the weft direction.
S02 4.55 43.0 ± 0.36 b 143.0 ± 0.36 b
Sample shrinkage was tested using ISO 6330:2012 standard
S03 4.60 44.2 ± 0.26 c 144.2 ± 0.26 c
method.13 The spirality of the fabric samples was measured
S04 4.65 44.0 ± 0.26 c 144.0 ± 0.26 c
following the technique reported in the previous study.8
Briefly, two fabric pieces of one sample were cut in 30 × 30 cm S05 4.50 1.70 45.5 ± 0.10 d 145.5 ± 0.10 d

dimensions and stitched together on three sides. The sample S06 4.55 46.8 ± 0.10 e 146.8 ± 0.10 e

was then washed and dried. The spirality was then calculated S07 4.60 46.5 ± 0.10 f 146.5 ± 0.10 f
as the percentage of displacement of the side seam at the end S08 4.65 46.2 ± 0.26 g 146.2 ± 0.26 g
to the total side seam length. All tests (elastic recovery, shrink- S09 4.50 1.80 48.5 ± 0.10 h 148.5 ± 0.10 h
age, and spirality) were conducted three times for each sample S10 4.55 48.8 ± 0.17 h 148.8 ± 0.17 h
and average and standard deviation values were reported. To S11 4.60 49.8 ± 0.17 i 149.8 ± 0.17 i
measure the statistical significance, a two-tailed t-test was S12 4.65 49.0 ± 0.17 j 149.0 ± 0.17 j
conducted between the datasets and p values were derived, S13 4.50 1.95 54.0 ± 0.17 k 154.0 ± 0.17 k
where p > 0.05 indicated no significant difference and
S14 4.55 54.5 ± 0.10 l 154.5 ± 0.10 l
p ≤ 0.05 indicated a significant difference between the datasets.
S15 4.60 55.0 ± 0.00 m 155.0 ± 0.00 m
Microscopic Imaging S16 4.65 55.5 ± 0.26 m 155.5 ± 0.26 m
Microscopic images of either side of one fabric sample (S32) S17 4.50 3.10 1.55 44.7 ± 0.17 c 144.7 ± 0.17 c
were taken by a BX51TRF optical microscope (Olympus, S18 4.55 43.0 ± 0.17 b 143.0 ± 0.17 b
Japan) at three different points. Since the behavior was found S19 4.60 45.0 ± 0.17 n 145.0 ± 0.17 n
similar at each point, one representative image is shown. S20 4.65 44.2 ± 0.17 c 144.2 ± 0.26 c

Results and Discussion S21

S22
4.50
4.55
1.70 46.0 ± 0.26 g
46.6 ± 0.26 f
146.0 ± 0.26 g
146.6 ± 0.26 f
Effect of Stitch Length on Fabric Extensibility S23 4.60 46.5 ± 0.30 f 146.5 ± 0.30 f
The extensibility of the fabric samples (after applying S24 4.65 47.0 ± 0.20 f 147.0 ± 0.20 f
15 N load) of different stitch length combinations is listed S25 4.50 1.80 48.0 ± 0.17 o 148.0 ± 0.17 o
in Table III. When the stitch length of fleecy yarn was S26 4.55 49.5 ± 0.10 p 149.5 ± 0.10 p
1.55 mm, widthwise elongation was near 43%–45%. When the S27 4.60 49.0 ± 0.10 j 149.0 ± 0.10 j
stitch length of fleecy yarn increased to 1.95 mm, widthwise S28 4.65 50.0 ± 0.10 i 150.0 ± 0.10 i
elongation was near 53.0%–54.0%. For all samples, it was
S29 4.50 1.95 53.0 ± 0.20 q 153.0 0.20 q
observed that by increasing the stitch length of fleecy yarn
S30 4.55 54.0 ± 0.10 k 154.0 ± 0.10 k
in the three-thread CVC fleece fabric, a significant increase
S31 4.60 54.5 ± 0.10 l 154.5 0.10 l
in extensibility occurred in the width direction. This was
S32 4.65 55.0 ± 0.17 m 155.0 ± 0.17 m
probably due to the extra space produced in the widthwise
direction by the increase of stitch length of the fleecy yarn. Different superscripts showing datasets are significantly different (p ≤ 0.05).
a

However, when the base yarn stitch length increased from

4.5 to 4.65 mm, by considering binding yarn stitch length
(3.00 mm) and fleecy yarn stitch length (1.55 mm) to be
constant, the extensibility of the fabric increased from 43.0%
to 45.0%. A similar result was also observed when the bind-
ing yarn stitch length was 3.10 mm, the fleecy yarn stitch
length was 1.55 mm, and the stitch length of the base yarn
was increased from 4.5 to 4.65 mm.
When the binding yarn stitch length increased from 3.00 to
3.10 mm, by keeping the base yarn stitch length (4.50 mm)
and the fleecy stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, the exten-
sibility was increased from 43.0% to 45.0%. Similarly, by
keeping the base yarn stitch length (4.65 mm) and the fleecy
yarn stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, the extensibility
ranged from 44.0% to 45.0% by increasing the binding yarn
stitch length from 3.00 to 3.10 mm.
Changes in elongation were statistically significant, mostly
because of the influence of the fleecy yarn (p ≤ 0.05), whereas

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 AATCC Journal of Research

Table IV. Table V.

Elastic Recovery After 1 Minute of Three-Thread Fleece Fabric Prepared Elastic Recovery After 30 Minutes of Three-Thread Fleece Fabric
with Different Stitch Length Combinationsa Prepared from Different Stitch Length Combinationsa
Sample Stitch Length (mm) Recovered Elongation Sample Stitch Length (mm) Recovered Elongation
No. After 1 min (%) No. after 30 min (%)
Base Yarn Binding Yarn Fleecy Yarn Base Yarn Binding Yarn Fleecy Yarn
S01 4.50 3.00 1.55 82.5 ± 0.44 a S01 4.50 3.00 1.55 86.0 ± 0.36 a
S02 4.55 81.5 ± 0.35 b S02 4.55 86.5 ± 0.10 a
S03 4.60 82.6 ± 0.26 a S03 4.60 87.0 ± 0.46 a
S04 4.65 83.5 ± 0.30 c S04 4.65 87.0 ± 0.26 a
S05 4.50 1.70 87.3 ± 0.30 d S05 4.50 1.70 90.5 ± 0.26 b
S06 4.55 87.9 ± 0.17 d S06 4.55 90.0 ± 0.26 b
S07 4.60 87.6 ± 0.20 d S07 4.60 91.5 ± 0.30 c
S08 4.65 88.8 ± 0.35 e S08 4.65 91.0 ± 0.17 c
S09 4.50 1.80 90.0 ± 0.20 f S09 4.50 1.80 93.5 ± 0.26 d
S10 4.55 89.3 ± 0.26 g S10 4.55 92.0 ± 0.26 c
S11 4.60 90.8 ± 0.26 h S11 4.60 93.5 ± 0.26 d
S12 4.65 89.5 ± 0.17 g S12 4.65 92.5 ± 0.17 c
S13 4.50 1.95 91.5 ± 0.00 i S13 4.50 1.95 94.2 ± 0.26 e
S14 4.55 91.5 ± 0.26 i S14 4.55 95.0 ± 0.26 f
S15 4.60 93.8 ± 0.17 j S15 4.60 96.5 ± 0.17 g
S16 4.65 92.5 ± 0.10 k S16 4.65 95.4 ± 0.12 f
S17 4.50 3.10 1.55 83.2 ± 0.10 c S17 4.50 3.1 1.55 86.0 ± 0.23 a
S18 4.55 82.5 ± 0.10 a S18 4.55 87.5 ± 0.17 a
S19 4.60 83.0 ± 0.20 c S19 4.60 87.0 ± 0.20 a
S20 4.65 83.5 ± 0.36 c S20 4.65 88.4 ± 0.21 h
S21 4.50 1.70 87.4 ± 0.35 d S21 4.50 1.70 90.5 ± 0.17 b
S22 4.55 88.0 ± 0.20 f S22 4.55 90.2 ± 0.15 b
S23 4.60 88.6 ± 0.20 e S23 4.60 91.5 ± 0.06 c
S24 4.65 88.2 ± 0.26 f S24 4.65 91.3 ± 0.17 c
S25 4.50 1.80 89.2 ± 0.20 g S25 4.50 1.80 93.5 ± 0.12 d
S26 4.55 89.5 ± 0.36 g S26 4.55 92.5 ± 0.17 c
S27 4.60 90.8 ± 0.30 h S27 4.60 93.5 ± 0.40 d
S28 4.65 89.2 ± 0.26 g S28 4.65 92.5 ± 0.17 c
S29 4.50 1.95 91.3 ± 0.17 i S29 4.50 1.95 95.0 ± 0.23 f
S30 4.55 92.5 ± 0.36 k S30 4.55 95.4 ± 0.17 f
S31 4.60 93.8 ± 0.06 j S31 4.60 96.0 ± 0.26 g
S32 4.65 92.8 ± 0.52 k S32 4.65 96.5 ± 0.23 g
Different superscripts showing datasets are significantly different (p ≤ 0.05).
a
Different superscripts showing datasets are significantly different (p ≤ 0.05).
a

changing the stitch lengths of the base yarn and the binding
yarn did not enhance elongation significantly in every case.
Effect of Stitch Length on Elastic Recovery constant, the elastic recovery after 1 min was 81.0%–84.0%. For
(1 Minute)
The elastic recovery percentages of the fleece fabric samples
1 min after releasing the 15 N force are listed in Table IV.
When the stitch length of the fleecy yarn was 1.55 mm, elas-
tic recovery was 82.5%. When the stitch length of the fleecy
yarn was increased to 1.95 mm, elastic recovery after 1 min
was near 91.3%. However, when the base yarn stitch length was
increased from 4.5 to 4.65 mm, while keeping the binding yarn
stitch length (3.00 mm) and the fleecy stitch length (1.55 mm)
the similar increase in the base yarn stitch length, while keeping
the binding yarn stitch length (3.10 mm) and the fleecy yarn
stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, the elastic recovery after
1 min was 82.0%–84.0%. When the binding yarn stitch length
increased from 3.00 to 3.10 mm, while keeping the base yarn
stitch length (4.50 mm) and the fleecy yarn stitch length

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 AATCC Journal of Research

(1.55 mm) constant, the elastic recovery after 1 min was at the binding portion, whereas no base yarn was present
82.0–84.0%. When the binding yarn stitch length increased in the fleecy portion of the fabric.10 As the face and binding
from 3.00 to 3.10 mm, with the base yarn stitch length yarns interlock with each other, the fabric gets little space for
(4.55 mm) and the fleecy yarn stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, extension after increasing the stitch length of the base yarn.11
the elastic recovery after 1 min was 81.0%–83.0%. When the As a result, the fabric showed very little or minor elastic
binding yarn stitch length was increased from 3.00 to 3.10 mm,
recovery. If the stitch length of the binding yarn is increased,
while keeping the fleecy yarn stitch length (1.55 mm) and the
keeping the face and fleecy yarns unchanged, the fabric had
base yarn stitch length (4.60 mm) constant, the elastic recov-
ery after 1 min was 81.0%–83.0%. Similarly, when the binding a very small amount of yarn on the face and no yarn stayed
yarn stitch length increased from 3.00 to 3.10 mm, with the on the lower side of the fleece fabric, although the maximum
base yarn stitch length (4.55 mm) and fleecy yarn stitch length
(1.55 mm) kept constant, the elastic recovery after 1 min was Table VI.
83.5%. Statistical analysis also showed the effect of changing Shrinkage of Three-Thread Fleece Fabric Prepared from Different
Stitch Length Combinationsa
the stitch length of either the base yarn or the binding yarn was
Fabric Stitch Length (mm) Shrinkage
not always significant (p > 0.05). However, changing the stitch Type
length of the fleecy yarn significantly affected (p ≤ 0.05) the Base Binding Fleecy Lengthwise (%) Widthwise (%)
Yarn Yarn Yarn
recovery property of these fleece fabrics.
S01 4.50 3.00 1.55 –2.5 ± 0.36 a –3.5 ± 0.17 b

Effect of Stitch Length on Elastic Recovery S02 4.55 –2.6 ± 0.17 a –2.5 ± 0.10 a

(30 Minutes) S03 4.60 –4.3 ± 0.26 b –2.8 ± 0.10 c

The elastic recovery of the fleece fabric samples of different S04 4.65 –2.5 ± 0.20 a –2.0 ± 0.17 a
stitch length combinations 30 min after releasing the 15 N S05 4.50 1.70 –3.5 ± 0.26 b –3.5 ± 0.17 b
force is listed in Table V. S06 4.55 –3.5 ± 0.30 b –2.5 ± 0.26 a
S07 4.60 –3.0 ± 0.26 c –3.5 ± 0.17 b
Results showed that when the stitch length of the fleecy yarn
S08 4.65 –3.6 ± 0.35 b –2.0 ± 0.17 a
was 1.55 mm, elastic recovery was 86%. When the stitch
length of the fleecy yarn was increased to 1.95 mm, recov- S09 4.50 1.80 –4.0 ± 0.44 b –1.0 ± 0.26 d

ered elongation was ~95%. However, when the base yarn S10 4.55 –3.5 ± 0.26 b –2.0 ± 0.17 a

stitch length was increased from 4.5 to 4.65 mm, by keeping S11 4.60 –2.0 ± 0.20 a –1.5 ± 0.10 d
the binding yarn stitch length (3.00 mm) and the fleecy yarn S12 4.65 –3.0 ± 0.26 c –2.0 ± 0.17 a
stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, the recovered elongation S13 4.50 1.95 –3.0 ± 0.20 c –3.5 ± 0.17 b
after 30 min was 86.0%–87.0%. Similarly, when the base S14 4.55 –3.5 ± 0.30 b –2.5 ± 0.26 a
yarn stitch length increased from 4.5 to 4.65 mm, by keeping S15 4.60 –3.5 ± 0.17 b –3.0 ± 0.10 c
the binding yarn stitch length (3.10 mm) and the fleecy yarn S16 4.65 –2.5 ± 0.26 a –2.0 ± 0.20 a
stitch length (1.55 mm) constant, the recovered elongation S17 4.50 3.10 1.55 –3.0 ± 0.20 c –3.0 ± 0.10 c
after 30 min was 86.0%–89.0%. When the binding yarn S18 4.55 –1.5 ± 0.17 d –1.0 ± 0.17 d
stitch length increased from 3.00 to 3.10 mm, by keeping the
S19 4.60 –4.8 ± 0.26 e –0.8 ± 0.30 d
base yarn stitch length (4.50 mm) and the fleecy yarn stitch
S20 4.65 –2.0 ± 0.20 a –2.5 ± 0.10 a
length (1.55 mm) constant, the elastic recovery after 30 min
S21 4.50 1.70 –3.0 ± 0.20 c –3.3 ± 0.10 c
did not change. Similarly, by keeping the fleecy yarn stitch
S22 4.55 –3.0 ± 0.20 c –3.5 ± 0.10 b
length (1.55 mm) constant, with base yarn stitch lengths of
4.55, 4.60, and 4.65 mm, recovery after 30 min was 86.0%– S23 4.60 –4.0 ± 0.26 b –3.2 ± 0.17 c

88.0%, 87.0%, and 87.0%–89.0%, respectively, by increasing S24 4.65 –4.0 ± 0.26 b –4.0 ± 0.20 b

the binding yarn stitch length from 3.00 to 3.10 mm. Similar S25 4.50 1.80 –2.0 ± 0.46 a –1.5 ± 0.17 d
to the results observed in the previous section, the elastic S26 4.55 –3.5 ± 0.36 b –3.0 ± 0.10 c
recovery was not always significantly affected by changes S27 4.60 –2.5 ± 0.36 a –3.5 ± 0.10 b
in stitch length of base or binding yarns, and was affected S28 4.65 –4.0 ± 0.20 b –1.0 ± 0.36 a
mostly by the stitch length of the fleecy yarn (p ≤ 0.05). S29 4.50 1.95 –3.5 ± 0.17 b –3.0 ± 0.20 c

Influence of Fleecy Yarn on Elastic Properties of S30 4.55 –2.5 ± 0.20 a –1.5 ± 0.10 d
S31 4.60 –3.3 ± 0.30 c –4.3 ± 0.26 b
Fleece Fabric
S32 4.65 –2.0 ± 0.36 a –4.0 ± 0.30 b
In the case of the base yarn, the maximum amount of yarn
Different superscripts showing datasets are significantly different (p ≤ 0.05).
a
stays at the face portion, and a small amount of yarn stays

January/February 2021 Vol. 8, No. 1 | 30

 AATCC Journal of Research
Fig. 2. Microscopic images of the front (a) and back (b) side of three-thread fleece fabric at (i) the initial stage,
(ii) recovery after 1 min, and (iii) after 30 min of applying 15 N force.
amount of yarn stayed on the binding side of the fleece fab-
ric. As the binding and face yarns interlock with each other,
the fabric had little space for extension after increasing the
stitch length of the binding yarn. As a result, fabric showed
very little or minor changes in elastic recovery.
However, in the case of the fleecy yarn, the maximum
amount of yarn stayed on the fleecy portion (back side of
the fabric), but a small amount of yarn stayed on the bind-
ing portion, and no yarn was present in the face side of the
fabric. For this reason, the fabric had more space for extension
after increasing the stitch length of the fleecy yarn. Moreover,
the binding yarn held the leg portion of the fleecy yarn and
helped to return the fabric to its original stage after removing
the load. As a result, the fabric showed greater elastic recovery
from varying the stitch length of the fleecy yarn.
Microscopic Image
The microscopic images of representative sample S32 before
and after elongation is shown in Fig. 2. It was observed that
the loop size recovered after 1 and 30 min were almost similar
to the initial size of the loops in the fabric. This was found fol-
lowing the result reported earlier where elastic recovery after
1 and 30 min were 92.8% and 96.5%, respectively. There was
also not any significant difference observed on the backside of
the fabric. The back of fabric showed fleecy fibers randomly
distributed on the fabric surface due to raising.
Effect of Stitch Length on Shrinkage Properties
The purpose of this study was not only improving the elastic
properties of CVC fleece fabric but also keeping the other
mechanical properties unaffected. For this reason, shrinkage
31 | Vol. 8, No. 1 January/February 2021
of the CVC fleece fabric was checked. The test results of fabric
shrinkage are shown in Table VI.
Results were very random and did not show any specific
trend, though some changes were significant. However, the
acceptable range for shrinkage percentage is within ±5% for
both lengthwise and widthwise.14 All of the data stayed within
the shrinkage limit (±5%) for both lengthwise and widthwise
shrinkage, probably because of its construction and heavy
GSM.15 Therefore, it was concluded that the effect of both
lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage while changing the stitch
length of base yarn, binding yarn, and fleecy yarn was within
the acceptable limit.
Effect of Stitch Length Variation on Spirality
The spirality test results of the fabric samples are shown in
Table VII. Similar to the shrinkage properties, the changes in
spirality by the alteration of yarn stitch length were random
without any specific trend. However, all values were below
5%, which was within the acceptable range.16 This might
have resulted from the heavy GSM of three-thread fleece
fabric, which generally shows good resistance to spirality.17
Conclusions
Improvement of mechanical properties of weft knit fabric
is an important area of research for textile and knitting
industries to meet customer demands in the global market.
The main objective of this study was to improve the elastic
properties of three-thread CVC fleece fabric by varying the
stitch length of the base, binding, and fleecy yarns. The elas-
tic recovery increased mostly with the increase of the fleecy
 AATCC Journal of Research

Table VII. References

Spirality of CVC Fleece Fabric Produced from Different Stitch
Length Combinationsa 1. Ibrahim, N. A.; Khalifa, T. F.; El-Hossamy, M. B.; Tawfik, T. M. Journal
of Industrial Textiles 2010, 40 (1), 49–64.
Fabric Type Stitch Length (mm) Spirality (%)
2. Haque, A. N. M. A.; Smriti, S. A.; Farzana, N.; Siddiqa, F.; Islam, M. A.
Base Yarn Binding Yarn Fleecy Yarn AATCC Journal of Research 2019, 6 (1), 29–37.
S01 4.50 3.00 1.55 3.5 ± 0.20 a 3. Haque, A. N. M. A.; Farzana, N.; Smriti, S. A.; Islam, M. A. AATCC
S02 4.55 3.5 ± 0.30 a
Journal of Research 2018, 5 (3), 8–14.
4. Chen, P. -L.; Barker, R. L.; Smith, G. W.; Scruggs, B. Textile Research
S03 4.60 4.0 ± 0.17 b Journal 1992, 62 (4), 200–211.
S04 4.65 3.0 ± 0.17 c 5. Anbumani, N. Knitting Fundamentals, Machines, Structures and
S05 4.50 1.70 4.0 ± 0.10 b Developments, 1st ed.; New Age International: New Delhi, India, 2007.
6. Pavko-Čuden, A. Tekstilec 2015, 58 (2), 108–120.
S06 4.55 3.5 ± 0.17 a
7. Smriti, S. A.; Belal, S. A.; Haque, M. A.; Hossain, M. I.; Farzana, N. F.;
S07 4.60 4.5 ± 0.30 d Haque, A. N. M. A. Tekstilec 2019, 62 (3), 166–180.
S08 4.65 4.0 ± 0.26 b 8. Islam, M. A.; Haque, A. N. M. A. Research Journal of Science & IT
Management 2014, 3 (3), 50–55.
S09 4.50 1.80 3.0 ± 0.20 c
9. Fouda, A. E. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR) 2018,
S10 4.55 3.5 ± 0.30 a 43 (2), 247–251.
S11 4.60 4.0 ± 0.20 b 10. Spencer, J. D. Knitting Technology, 3rd ed.; Elsevier: Amsterdam,
Netherlands, 2001.
S12 4.65 3.5 ± 0.30 a
11. Ozcan, G.; Candan, C. Textile Research Journal 2005, 75 (2), 129–133.
S13 4.50 1.95 3.0 ± 0.23 c 12. BS EN 14704-1:2005, Determination of the Elasticity of Fabrics,
S14 4.55 3.5 ± 0.18 a British Standards Institution, 2005.
13. Saville, B. P. Physical Testing of Textiles; Woodhead Publishing Ltd.:
S15 4.60 4.5 ± 0.20 d
Cambridge, UK, 1999.
S16 4.65 3.0 ± 0.20 c 14. Adidas Group. Dimensional Change in Home Laundry (International),
S17 4.50 3.10 1.55 4.5 ± 0.00 d September 2007.
S18 4.55 4.0 ± 0.00 b 15. Safdar, F.; Hussain, T.; Nazir, A.; Iqbal, K. Journal of Engineered Fibers
and Fabrics 2014, 9 (3), 155892501400900300.
S19 4.60 4.5 ± 0.26 d
16. Adidas Group. Approval on Spirality Measurement, September 2007.
S20 4.65 3.0 ± 0.20 c 17. Kalkanci, M. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2019, 27 (133),
S21 4.50 1.70 4.0 ± 0.20 b 59–66.
S22 4.55 3.0 ± 0.21 c
S23 4.60 3.5 ± 0.21 a Author
S24 4.65 4.5 ± 0.00 d A. N. M. A. Haque, Dept. of Textile Engineering, Faculty
S25 4.50 1.80 4.0 ± 0.20 b of Engineering, Daffodil International University, 102,
S26 4.55 2.5 ± 0.30 e Shukrabad, Mirpur Rd. Dhanmondi, Dhaka 1207, Ban-
S27 4.60 4.0 ± 0.20 b gladesh; phone +88.01.71.558.0985; fax +88.02.913.1947;
S28 4.65 4.5 ± 0.26 d anmahaque@gmail.com.
S29 4.50 1.95 3.0 ± 0.20 c
S30 4.55 3.0 ± 0.25 c
S31 4.60 3.5 ± 0.30 a
S32 4.65 4.0 ± 0.10 b
Different superscripts showing datasets are significantly different (p ≤ 0.05).
a

yarn stitch length. Elastic recovery was increased by around

9% when the stitch length of the fleecy yarn was increased
from 1.55 to 1.95 mm while removing 15 N load after
30 min. However, the other two yarns showed minor effects
on the all over elastic behavior of the fabric, and the changes
were not always significant. Therefore, it was concluded
that the fleecy yarn stitch length had the main effect on the
elastic recovery of three-thread fleece fabric. In the knit-
ting industries, this technique can be successfully applied to
improve the elastic property of fleece fabric.

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