DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT

shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/11/divine-long-ladies-skirt.html

Like the famous ABBA song goes, I had a dream, to

make a long flowing skirt.. and in that dream I thought
it would be with these little pineapples that just
exploded into larger and lighter ones , cascading all the
way to the floor.. well, thanks to Pinterest, someone
else had that dream too and wrote a convenient chart
for me.. so I’m saved the trouble of scrunching my face
up to make the chart.. I just enjoy the creative process
of making this lovely, long, flowing skirt.. so come along with me
and let’s smile while we make this super creation. J

Inspired by one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the

net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them
with you.

Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose metallic knitting
cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn
.. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d want it
to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.

Right off, I’m going to request you to please ensure that you do
share my blog when you make this exquisite creation… and when
you do share it, please share the actual URL / page link and not just my name. Thank you.

Materials used : Red Rose metallic knitting cotton (nearly 20 balls) ~ with a 3 mm crochet
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hook.
The amount of yarn needed depends on the length
and waist of the person intended. You can use any
yarn with a suitable hook to make this project. For a
good fall though, lighter yarns will work better.

Size : Waist 27" Length 37" ; Bottom flare ~ 170"

Skill level : Advanced

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way
of starting a project directly with a row of double
crochet stitches. This makes your whole project neat
and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to
agree! If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why
you never used this start before !
Do visit this lovely

link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-double-crochet-fdc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely
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way of starting a double crochet row. Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video
http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-
starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or
do not like it, do continue with the usual
ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all
instructions will be given assuming that
you are using this chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link

to refresh this procedure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc :
Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp :
Space
sl-st : Slip stitch
hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch
: Chain

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s
take a look at what we’re going to do here.

So we start our pattern from the waist and as we

move down, there is a small flare that is brought
on by the lovely hanging pineapple border. So if
there is a really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for this
skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :

a) Use a tie-cord to bring the waist together. This has two advantages – not only do you
avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for
your skirt. In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then you work
your counts for your start line stitches to go around your (or intended) hips. You will need a

st 3/16
line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.. so I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all
around. You can then loop your tie cord
neatly on completion.

b) Experienced crafters can work in an

even increase every alternate row to give
the finished skirt a slight “A”-lined effect
followed then by the border.

With this pattern, I am going to use the

lovely fdc to start. I personally feel that
the finish this foundation gives is worth all
the work. However if you wish to start
with regular chains, go ahead.

So our pattern repeat is 37. Work a small

swatch to check your gauge and see how
many repeats you need to get the waist
round for your project. J

We’re going to work in rows for the first

few rows, and then work in rounds. Now,
as each of us will have different waist / hip
sizes that we’re working with, please work
the opening at the back to suit your
requirements.
Now there are two ways to work the skirt
calculation. You can either calculate for
the round waist, and then keep the opening large enough to cover or go around the largest
part of the lower body and then you will work for these first few rows back and forth
or you could just work the top (round waist area) measure in such a way that it covers the
largest part of the body, and then affix an elastic tape along the top of the waist band – such
that it neatly stretches and then you can work in rounds all through.
I am also going to be giving the instructions per chart.

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I am going to work in rows back and forth for the first few
rows, making a small opening at the back to ease in the
hips. I will then work in rounds. My instructions,
therefore will be in rows and then rounds accordingly.
If you feel that you need several more rows to work the
hips in, then please continue working in rows till you have
the right measurement, and then work in rounds
thereafter.

One cheat / trick to increase width of your garment faster

is to increase the spacing between stitch groups. So if ,
for e.g, the pattern reads ch-5 , dc in etc, you just make
that a ch-6 and work the rest of the pattern. That way,
you will be increasing one ch per repeat without changing
the pattern, but increasing unnoticeably. Do note
though, that you will need to add this ch all through
the pattern else the shape of your skirt may change –
i.e you may not get the proper gradual shaping
desired.

Start with fdc as per your requirement. Turn.

We have the first of our “V”-sts from this row on.

Our “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-
sp.

Row 1 : “V”-st in 1st fdc ;

*(ch 5, sk next 6 fdc, “V”-st in next fdc) ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, sc in the next fdc ;
[ch 5, sk next fdc, sc in the next fdc] ;
rep [to] 7 times ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, “V”-st in the next fdc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

From now on, all “V”-sts will be done in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.
Row 2 : “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

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rep [to] 6 times ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 3 : “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st “V”-st

Note 1 : As I am happy with the back opening, I will work in

rounds here on, and join with sl-st at the end of every round. If
you still need a longer back opening, please work in rows back
and forth and join with a sl-st to that 1st “V”-st when you reach
the opening length you need.

Note 2 : You will notice that at that point where we’re joining
our two sides, we have four “V”-sts together, whereas all around
we have only three “V”-sts. In the round after you have joined,
(so for all those of you who are joining now in Row 5, this applies right now), you will work
your “V”-st over the two “V”-sts. This means that you will work 2 dc in one “V”-st and then
second half of the same “V” st, (i.e. ch 2 and then the 2 dc) in the next “V”-st. This will
conveniently reduce one “V”-st without changing the pattern at all.
Please check the round measurement at this point to ensure that you are going to be able
to get the skirt around the largest part of the lower body before continuing.

Note 3 : As all of us may be working different back opening lengths, I am not going to specify
where you need to do this “reduction start V-st” , so instructions below will not indicate it.

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Ensure though that you have only three “V”-sts between the filigree lacy work all around.

Note 4 : Our following row is an increase row. We will be

working 9 dc in the centre “V”-st. Now at the point where we
start, we have those 4 “V’-sts that we need to make into 3, and
we are also supposed to be working 9 dcs in that centre “V”-st.
So what I’ve done is work 9 dc over the existing two “V’-sts , thus
killing both these birds at one stone.

Round 6 : Increase row : *{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ,

5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Note : If you’ve joined at the back of this row (making this a

round), may I suggest, for your own convenience and for a neat finish, that you sl-st all the
way back to the first of the 9 dc on this first set.
Instructions will be given assuming that that is where you are.

Round 7 : dc in the 1 st dc ;
*{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 7 times ; (ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] once ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 8 : sc in the 1 st dc ;
{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ; rep {to} 7 times ;
(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] once ; rep (to) once ;
*rep {to} 8 times ; rep (to) once ; rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 9 : sc in the 1 st ch-5 sp ;

*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 6 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; (“V”-st in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ; “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

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Round 10 : sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 5 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 6 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 11 : sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 4 times ; (ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 5 times ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 12 : sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 3 times ; (ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 4 times ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 13 : sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 2 times ; (ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 3 times ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Our following row / round is a rep of Round 6 , in a way. So let’s break this down to make it
a little simpler.

In Round 13, you see that we have five sets of “V”-sts. Now in the following round, our
increases will be in the 2 nd and 4 th “V”-sts , and this is where we will be starting off our two
new pineapples. So “V”-st nos 1, 3 and 5 stay as “V”-sts.
Simple enough , right ?

Round 14 : Increase round : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} once ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
*{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , 5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ;
rep (to) once ; rep {to} once ; rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ;

st 8/16
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

The next round is also an increase round. In this round, we will increase in between the two
pineapples that we’re starting out. This is a preparation for the next set of pineapples which
will come in between these two pineapples we’re just creating.

So you see how we’re growing our pattern, and adding pineapples..

Round 15 : Increase round : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, dc in the 1 st dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 7 times ;
[rep (to) once ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same “V”-st] ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 7 times ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 16 : “V”-st in the 1 st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 2, sc in the 1 st dc ; {ch 5, sc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} 7 times ; [rep (to) once ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp] ;
* ch 2, sc in the next dc ; rep {to} 8 times ;
rep (to) once ; ch 5, “V”-st in next ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc ; rep {to} 8 times ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 17 : “V”-st in the 1 st “V”-st ; *[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 6 times ; ch 3, (“V”-st in next “V”-st) ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 7 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 18 : “V”-st in the 1 st “V”-st ; *[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;
rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to] once ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 6 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

st 9/16
Round 19 : “V”-st in the 1 st “V”-st ;
*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 4 times ;
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

Round 20 : “V”-st in the 1 st “V”-st ;

*[ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 3 times ;
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 4 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1 st st.

And we’ve successfully completed one repeat.

Our repeat is from Round 6 – 20.

So if you look at this pattern you’ll see that we are starting the new increase round here, in
between the earlier pineapple, and our next pineapple will start in between these
pineapples. I am sure you know what I mean.
Remember that as we’re increasing pineapples with each pattern repeat, we will need to
increase repeats within each round as we go around.. but I’m sure you knew that too.

Right then, continue these repeats till you have a skirt of the length you need. The beauty
of this pineapple pattern is that you can end it at any time… well, that’s what I’ve done.
Once my skirt reached the full length needed, I ended, without worrying about the pattern
at that point.

The only finishing that I’ve ended with is a picot on that last round. I used the ch-3 picot
which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch)… and in case you need it, there’s a video link on how to
do a picot at the top of this blog write up.

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Fasten off then and weave in the ends..
and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on
and show off.. you deserve to J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right

here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

People who like this skirt also looked at these free skirt patterns J

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/03/suchis-lil-skirt.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/03/zaras-skirt.html
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 https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/03/ems-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2014/10/a-lovely-3-in-1-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/10/gypsy-shelled-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/10/all-pineapples-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/08/simply-lovely-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/08/beautifully-simple-
shelled-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/oh-wow-such-lovely-
skirt.html

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