Well here goes.

Never done this before so bare with me if it looks strange or pics are in
wrong order etc, etc.
Sorry for pic quality. I was trying to take pics of small things in a confined and
obstructed space but anyone who has a 2.7 CRD will get the idea!

This was the motor before I started!

Remove engine cover. Just pull it up trying not to snap any of the plastic legs off!
Something the PO failed to do but it still sits tight enough.

Remove this small bolt/bracket that is attached to coolant pipe that goes to the AC
compressor. You DO NOT need to remove this pipe, drain any water, remove the PAS
pipe or the serpentine belt or the low pressure pump or the vacuum pump (but see
later!)to remove the high pressure pump even though it says you do in the Jeep
workshop manual!

Remove this bracket/cable support from the idle pulley. Reinsert bolt in to pulley just
enough so it does not move and loosen the serp belt!

Bracket removed!
If you have no diesel handy (this was the point I realised I didnt!) then suck some out of
the bleeder valve before you disconnect any pipes and all the diesel runs back to the
tank! Put aside for later.

With the bracket removed you will be able to access the bolt and clamp that holds the
two low pressure pipes (in and return) to the left of the HP pump. I used a 3/8 inch drive
socket with a short extension and a UJ adapter as space, even with previous bracket
removed is still tight! Hope you can make out socket in this pic with the coolant pipe in
way!

This is what I used.

The torx bolts either side of the pump are easy to get to so are easily removed. NOTE
ALL THE BOLTS REMOVED IN THIS FEATURE ARE E10 SIZE TORX. So you
will need a small selection of torx sockets (£8 Ebay) before you attemp this (and just
about any othe job on this motor!)

And the other side, feeding the socket between the pipes etc.

Continued!
See less
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
Reply
Save
Like

alfaitalia

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 28, 2012

And going on!

This is the trickey bolt, the one underneath and the reason why the manual says to
remove the serp belt but its not nessecary. Just feel under the pump for the bolt with one
hand whilst positioning the socket on a short extension bar with the other hand. Hold it
there while you pop on the rachet and wind away...easy.....PROVIDING you have
already removed to low pressure pipes (see above) If you have not then you will not be
able to push down the pipes to give the required clearance to the socket.

Next release the high pressure outlet pipe using a 12mm spanner (wrench) to hold the
pump outlet and a 13mm one to release pipe collar. Do not worry about the high
pressure fuel coming out. If you have left the Jeep for more than 10 minutes there will
be no pressure and you will just get a small trickle of diesel/ the rest will be held in the
fuel rail by suction.

This is the point that I realised that although it would be just possible to remove the
pump without futher disassembly, space was very tight and would require an
uncomfortable amount of bend on the alloy coolant pipe and the pas pipe. So...

...vacuum pump was removed...just two bolts and plenty of length on hose so no need to
detach. Note photo taken out of order (forgot to do it on removal!) and pump already
removed in background.

Eh voila! Pump out. Note dirt on engine front. Combination of leaking engine oil
around pump (new seal comes with new pump) and leaking diesel from pump.. one of
the reasons I wanted to replace in the first place. Cleaned of with carb cleaner spray.

Check this for wear. Any marks...replace. Mine was fine. Its the drive piece that
connects the inlet cam to the pump. Some wear quicker than others due to machining
tollerences between cam drive and pump.

Replace the o rings on the low pressure pipe unless recently replaced. Failure of these
rings (throughout the low pressure side there are about ten) is VERY COMMON. It
allows air to be sucked into the fuel system causing anything from rough running to
slow starts and cutting out under load...plus other. Often not noticed as diesel rarely
leaks out- just air in. They cost pennys...well quite a few of them but must be done
whilst its apart.
Note that one is green and one is black. That is because I had one Jeep one (black) in the
stock box and only one Mercedes (green) item (far superior in shape and lifespan) in
stock. In the pic the pipes are the wrong way round to make them easier the photograph.
Make sure you put them back where they came from (they fit in either space!) or she
wont run!
New pump slotted in to place waiting to be bolted up. If the drive spigot in not lined up
the the cam drive then it will not sit flush with the block. Do not force it... slowly turn
the pump body until it slides in flush then turn it back til the bolt holes line up.

This is where the diesel you removed earlier comes in. Squirt it into all three holes (oo
err!) of the pump before you attach the hoses so it does not run dry for the few seconds
of cranking while it pressurises...the quickest way of killing these pumps which will
result in slow cold starts in winter and cutting out under full throttle. You can try to lube
it defore you fit it but in my experience most would have leaked away by the time you
have fitted it.

This is the plate that holds the low pressure pipes in place. Important to fit it the right
way round (will fit both ways) The hook end faces the front of the engine. Make sure it
seats properly in the pipe connectors BEFORE tightening the retaining bolt or you
WILL crack the brittle plastic ends and then getting them to seal will be impossible.
This will result on poor running/starting as a minimum. End pieces are not available on
there own so complete fuel lines need to be purchased and fitted. A pain, expensive and
easy to avoid.

So there you have it. About an hour and a quarters work (plus breaks!) for a smoother
running engine that no longer cuts out on full throttle (quite scarey), drops diesel on the
drive or smells like a HGV!
Any questions?? I will try my best to fabricate a believable answer! Dean (alfaitalia)
See more

10
Reply
Save
Like

alfaitalia
Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 29, 2012
Well 24 hours later and the car is like a new vehicle!! Smoother tickover with much less
hanging when you blip the throttle, far better in gear accelaration. I think the pump must
have been worn since i had the car (only done 96000miles though) but only recently got
bad enough to cause running problems as the engine never felt this strong. More
importantly I no longer have the P1130 fault code (low fuel rail pressure).. and after
nearly a year thats a great relief (sorted yours yet Madderthanmax???). I think that my
excellant fuel consumption my suffer though as I can now rev it to the govenor!!
Something I could not do before for fear of it cutting out due to fuel stavation (bloody
scarey on the motorway at 80 too!).
See more