Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Wine Extra April
Wine Extra April
Wine Extra April
WineExtra
APRIL 2013
Terroir
what is it and why
is it important
W
A V IN
CLI EUV
C
HA QUOE
MP
ER T
Editor’s letter 5
Table Talk 23
Taste Team 6
Vibrant Viognier Now You’re
Cooking 28
Special Report 12
What is Terroir?
Livin’ the Life 30
Bubbles, Horses and Hotties... Polo
at Val de Vie
Competition 34
Win a Veuve Clicquot Hamper
We’ve Been
Drinking 35
Libby’s Pride Shiraz 2009
Exclusive
Interview 18
Jo-Ann Strauss, a free spirited
Aquarian who loves work and
putting things together, but
detests being told what to do!
Get Out 36
Our pick of the very best
Polo at Val de Vie with Veuve Clicquot
viticultural-based events
wine-extra.co.za
wineshow.co.za
Editor:
Maryna Strachan
maryna@wine-extra.co.za
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Editor’s letter
Maryna Strachan
maryna@wine-extra.co.za
Follow us @WineExtra Whilst many wine producers are already finished harvesting their grapes, many
others are still very much in the thick of it, working until the early morning
hours or starting well before sunrise to pick their grapes at the optimal ripeness.
Seemingly so, harvest 2013 looks like a success and I can’t wait to sample the
first releases.
As Easter is yet again around the corner, I’d like to take the opportunity to
highlight responsible drinking. Apart from the Christmas festive season, Easter
tends to see the most significant number of road deaths on South African roads.
Please, if you’re driving long distances, stop to rest and very importantly, don’t
drink and drive. These days there are many services like Goodfellas that ensure
that you and your car get home safely at a cost that won’t set you back an arm
and a leg… or a life…
In this issue we take a look at ‘terroir’. No, not like Osama Bin Laden, but the
actual site of where the grapes are grown. This has a rather large effect on the
overall taste of the wine and the article highlights those factors. The Taste
Team tuck into Viognier and I report back on a fabulous day at the polo with
Veuve Clicquot. As usual, there’s so much more too, so top up your glass, get
yourself all nice and comfy and enjoy the read.
From left to right: Ridgeback Viognier 2012, by Ridgeback Wines RRP: R75. Excelsior Viognier 2012, by Excelsior Wines,
RRP: R42. Saronsberg Viognier 2011, by Saronsberg, RRP: R90. Fairview Viognier 2012, by Fairview Wines, RRP: R72 Eagles
Nest Viognier 2012, by Eagles Nest Wines , RRP: R145. Gabrielskloof Viognier 2011, by Gabrielskloof, RRP: R90.
everything you would be looking for. The One of those “catch a hare” types. The
Daisy says: True to Viognier, this wine strawberry it then transcends into a litchi
was perfumed on the nose with hints of sorbet note on one’s palate with the
geranium pushing through. This didn’t sweet strawberry notes still very much
seem to dissipate but took on more of a present. There is quite a mighty kick
room spray element – not unpleasantly from the alcohol and after a few sips the
wine’s dryness becomes apparent. This
“…the ideal wine is definitely for those who prefer a more
in you. and chic finish, the Saronsberg came to a bit much. Peaches and cream fill the
the party, dressed to impress. air with subtle hints of Turkish delight
Charlotte says: It takes a lot to shut me perfume amongst other floral notes.
up – especially with wines - but this one This becomes a lime zest palate. Crisp
managed it! Soft, creamy citrus notes on and refreshing, it will go down a treat on
the nose with a waft of oak, but all just any hot summers day.
perfectly balanced. Strangely enough
it reminded me of those lemony cream
Fairview 2012 Charlotte says: Probably the most
biscuits, which, let’s face it, who can RRP: R 72 ; Stockists: Norman familiar of all of the lineup when it comes
resist? On the palate the balance of rich Goodfellows, Carolines and Johnny’s to what I was expecting from this lesser
vanilla with a green, minerally zing just Liquor known grape - namely flavours of white
works so well and it leaves the most www.fairview.co.za peach, Turkish delight and rose petals.
beautifully elegant, silk like finish. You With the first sip, this is quite a spritely
just have to admire it silently before wine, almost effervescent in character
saying “Wow” and reaching for another with a large dose of “twang” that is
glass. almost too much for the delicate aromas
to handle. I could still happily quaff a
Abby says: Easily mistaken for a bottle or two alongside a fish braai on
Sauvignon Blanc on the nose with all
the typical Sauvvie notes dominating. “This wine was like
A delicious creamy and acidic peach
prevails on one’s palate. There is an
a confident woman
element of nuttiness and caramel too. – forward yet
Brilliantly balanced. Be seduced by
this suave, elegant, stately and richly
elegant and with
satisfying Viognier. perfect poise”
Silas says: Special occasions call for the beach – perfect!
this type of wine. Apart from its creamy
nature it’s the fragrance that first gets Abby says: A basic, tart nose that is
my attention. I would happily smell this rather one-dimensional. The palate is
wine for long periods of time before I far more interesting as it is very smooth
even take the first sip. I learn from my Daisy says: This is a less pricey but good and mouth wateringly divine, but has
fellow tasters that the creaminess of the example of Viognier. I could smell green quite a bite to it. Think the contrasting
wine is from its contact with the oak. I melon on the nose and the palate was sweet and sour, but still smooth and full
am still unsure exactly what this means, fresh and racy with a feint lemon zing. of lemon curd flavour.
but I’m happy to go with it anyway. One could also pick up peaches and who
doesn’t love fresh peaches in summer? Silas says: I taste fruit right away. And
Angelo says: Fleshy peaches and We indulged in a host of cheeses though I know the fruit, I can’t put my
Turkish delight were cartwheeling alongside the wines, and the Fairview finger on it. This nags me to the point of
around in this glass. Once again, the went delightfully well with all of them, having to do a little cheating by sneaking
dainty floral petals were present, and the even the stronger white cheddar. a peek at the labelling. Turns out this
flavours were even more impressive on lovely wine is a winner for you if you like
the palate. Elegant and not over eager, Nathan says: All is “Fair” in love and war. apricots. I don’t myself, but that doesn’t
the balance between fruit and floral I love the array of fruits and floral notes make me disapprove of the taste.
made this pretty special. Dry with a long this wine shows off, but the acidity gets
Angelo says: Apricots and white peach butter and clementines on the palate - menthol tinge to it too.
were so prominent in the Fairview an absolutely scrummy combination.
Viognier on the nose and again I got a This Viognier would easily fare well with Silas says: Sometimes, as artists
wallop of acidity. This Viognier was very richer foods. (without gloating) like myself, we tend
much an easy drinking style of wine. to live off the need to be impressed by
There were no frills or spills, and quite Nathan says: Structurally it is perfect things and should things fall short of
honestly, it went down like a homesick and I really can’t fault it in any way. that need, we tend to forget about them
mole. The dessert-like, dried and Green apples, melons and peaches very easily. There’s not really much good
candied fruit flavours were delicious and express themselves through a subtle or bad I could say about this wine that
very moreish. nose that comes alive on the palate. A would sell it to you. Except to say that
slight creaminess comes to light, but is compared to the other wines it is very,
brilliantly layered due to the presence very neutral.
of fresh acidity. If you are looking for
something quite magnificent and a Angelo says: I found this wine slightly
Daisy says: What I loved about this Abby says: A wonderfully enjoyable
wine was the label – the back showed Viognier that is light and refreshing.
you the vintage block and the height It is nice, but nothing wow, as one
it’s grown at. Granny Smith apples and tends to expect something a bit more
winter melon wafted toward the nose, extraordinary from Eagles Nest. Notes
followed by subtle hints of melted that appear are key lime pie with a little
What is Terroir?
T erroir (pronounced ‘tear-wahr’) is not a new
concept. We know that the Egyptians (3000
B.C.) had an understanding of the importance of the
Terroir can be very loosely translated as “a sense of
place,” which is embodied in certain characteristic
qualities, the sum of the effects that the local
interaction between the environment and the vine environment has had on the production of the
as they built artificial hills in the flat Nile-Delta and product.
divided their wines into five categories, partially
based on the origin of the product. Whereas the great majority of wines made
from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, for example,
Georgic authors (200 B.C. – 200 A.D.) underlined demonstrate that variety’s characteristic deep
the role played by the environment in viticulture colour, blackcurrant flavour, and firmly tannic
both at a macro and microscale and the importance backbone, with regional variations on this
of choosing the site according to the cultivar to be theme, the Pinot Noir is chameleon-like, and, not
planted. This concept has formed the base of many surprisingly, a less adaptable international traveller.
geographical indication systems, not the least being If the climate is too cool, the wines tend to be weedy
the Wine of Origin System in South Africa. and pale; if too warm, they can turn out roasted,
even pruney, or overly tannic. Too-rich soils can
best express the wine nudges the vine on how In the final analysis, terroir has the potential to
to be and what to do. It sends signals: from early add greatly to a wine experience, but should not
pruning to cutting back bunches, de-leafing for be relied on exclusively to determine quality. For
ventilation, when to harvest (or let hang) and a many tasters, the joy of being able to distinguish
non-intervention philosophy in the winery. When such specific differences in a wine’s growing area is
the vines are loved and a project made with an eye unsurpassable, while for others, it couldn’t be less
to terroir and attention to quality, how can a wine important. Like so many concepts in the world of
NOT best express all that it was meant to be? A wine fine wine, terroir is only worth what you can get out
showing all that it can be: the soil, the place, the of it.
people, the origin... This is a beautiful confluence
and manifestation of two worlds.
Jo-Ann
Strauss
A free spirited Aquarian who loves work and putting things together, but
detests being told what to do, Jo-Ann finds solace in balance. This stunning
ex-Miss South Africa shines and inspires wherever she goes with class, poise
and oodles of sophistication… And she also LOVES wine!.
Images by: Mark Freeborough Shot on location at: Café Paradiso, Cape Town
Where did your career start? me, which might otherwise never have happened.
I’ve been in the TV industry for 12 years now, I do
You could say it started when I won the Miss South a lot of public speaking and have other business
Africa pageant, but then that can also be questioned. interests.
If I had to look back, I finished my high schooling
in Somerset West and initially wanted to study When did you start to enjoy wine?
medicine. As I was about to start, I was approached
by Koos Bekker of Media 24 who saw me doing a Well, I studied at Stellenbosch University, so wine
speech and coaxed me into the media industry. I is part of the environment there, but I am a strong
then did a BComm. Law degree and won Miss SA believer in the Latin phrase ‘In vinum veritas’,
in that time. It was one of those moments when which means ‘In wine is the truth’ and until you
everything came together, I moved to Jo’burg to do haven’t finished a bottle of wine with somebody, you
my duties, but then returned to finish my degree, can’t really know them. I think it is such a beautiful
which was tough, but I’m glad I did it. thing to enjoy. The winemakers put so much effort
and passion into the product and I love the social
We often see you on Top Billing. What else keeps you aspect of it as well as the taste. The other thing
busy? about wine is that I have a nice glass of wine on the
plane on a long haul flight and then I always have a
I would say that Top Billing is only about 10% of good sleep. Wine makes economy class bearable!
what I do, but it’s what people know me for. This
has been such a favourable experience for me as Which type of wine do you prefer?
people do business with people they ‘know’ and as a
public figure it has opened so many other doors for It’s definitely weather dependent. In summer I love
If you were out and about and had to pop into a local
supermarket to pick a bottle of wine of their shelf,
which wine would you choose knowing that it won’t
let you down?
I must add that I am a big advocate for safe driving foot in front of the other. It’s a very exciting project
and I’m glad that the general attitude of most South and has a talk show and magazine style show
Africans is changing for the better when it comes to element, so keep an eye out for that.
that.
Where is your favourite place to enjoy a glass of Jo-Ann’s thoughts on this wine
wine?
“This is such a
I got married at Camps Bay Retreat and to sit there, delightfully fresh and
watch the sunset and the beautiful scenery with a fruity wine. Perfect for
good glass of wine is pure perfection. Or in winter a beautiful summer’s
next to a roaring log fire with a glass of red wine, day like today.”
curled up on the sofa.
Ke n F o r r e s t e r P e t i t
What’s next for you? Chenin Blanc
www.kenforresterwines.
Well, hopefully I’ll be able to start a family soon! com
I’ve recently started to think “What is success?” and RRP: R72
for me, it is balance. I’m doing a lot of mentorship
projects where I talk to kids. I’m such a rich person
to have grown up in a fantastic home and loving
family and that has helped shape me to be the
person I am today. I’ve also got a brand new show
coming up, which celebrates African beauty and
women taking the world by storm, one stilletto’d
u c c e S S
After
enAl S ,
pheno
m
o n A l ly
e r n A t i
int em b e r t e
o th ,
n e w m n f A m ily
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ow Av
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on the fArm Allesverloren where DAnie mAlAn wAs born AnD breD - A pAssionAte mAn, he tries his hAnD At
Anything, be it fishing or mAking wine, hAlf meAsures simply Do not exist. (Just Ask his frienDs.)
but his biggest pAssion will AlwAys be wine, As the cupboArD full of AwArDs he hAs won over the
yeArs cleArly shows. Although he is internAtionAlly recogniseD As one of the wine-mAking greAts of our
country, DAnie remAins A humble fArm mAn At heArt. in fAct, he wAs once referreD to As “the nAkeD winemAker” (Ask
him why!). this unpretentious ApproAch to life shows in his bAckyArD blenD - no frills, Just fAntAstic.”
A
‘ m o d e s t ’ to contain 497 American $20 be held in Los Angeles in June
Champagne coins, minted between 1851 and – would go to the man who
worker who 1928, and untouched for nearly a found the coins. ‘The vineyard
chanced upon a century. has described him as a modest
US$1m collection How they came to be in a employee of the Lanson firm,
of gold coins stands to pocket half vineyard building in the south of who brought the collection to
the proceeds when the treasure is Champagne remains a mystery, the attention of the company
auctioned later this year. but Bonhams said the former not knowing that he would be
The employee of Champagne owner of the building was a wine entitled to half of the proceeds
Lanson was remodelling a former producer who had traded with under French law,’ he added.
grape - drying facility in Les the US in the 1930’s. According to the vineyard, this
Riceys last February when several Paul Song, director of the Rare anonymous individual will now
of the coins ‘rained down’ on Coins and Banknotes Department be able to buy or build a house
him, according to auction house at Bonhams, said half of the for his family with the auction
Bonhams. The collection proved proceeds of the auction – to proceeds.
I
f you forgot to check your of yet, neither has shamelessly
c e l e b r i t y- w i n e - r e l e a s e plugged the brand on Twitter
calendar on Wednesday, or an Andy Cohen–moderated
some disappointing news: reunion special.
B ra d P i t t a n d A n g e l i n a
Jolie’s new-old rosé, Miraval, Since we can no longer purchase
debuted online yesterday, and Miraval (or, as our budget and
within five hours, all 6,000 bottles restraining orders suggest,
had sold out. (For comparison’s visit the estate), we must live
sake: while Miraval is slightly vicariously through the select few
less popular than Taylor Swift– who have already sampled the
concert tickets, it is as popular celebrity rosé. Such as Thierry
as Book of Mormon tickets in Desseauve, the first wine critic in
Denver.) the world to taste Miraval, who
tells Reuters: “This one was very
The wine, which is produced on fresh, very fruity, very exuberant
the couple’s 1,000-acre estate in on the aroma side, but also round,
Southern France, was previously supple and fresh and energetic so
released by the property’s original for my standard of tasting wine,
owners under the name “Pink it was a very good wine. I gave it
Floyd,” after the iconic band that a 91 point out of a one hundred
recorded The Wall in Miraval’s s c a l e. . . It wa s a l s o a g o o d
recording studio. vineyard for years and maybe for
more than one century so it was
Although the idea of celebrities possible to do a good wine, to do
releasing wine sounds a little iffy, a better wine than before because
akin to something a Pinot Grigio– the owners before weren’t very
loving cast member of The Real focused on wine producing.”
Ho u s e w i v e s m i g h t d o a f t e r
Season One, the endeavour seems So it earned an A on its first
legitimate. Pitt and Jolie teamed effort. Congratulations, to the
with Famille Perrin, which owns Perrins and Pitt-Jolies. And for
Château Beaucastel, a winery the rest of us who were not lucky
famous for its Châteauneuf-du- enough to get in on the $140/case
Pape, and actively participated first sale, we will have to wait
in the wine-making process by until summer, when the wine-
attending rosé-blending sessions, makers are expected to introduce
switching to steel tanks, and their sophomore effort, a white
helping to develop a new shape wine.
and label for the bottle. And as Salut!
C
h i n a i s a l l ow i n g notification allows use of the are held back from the authorities
the sale of tonic bones of the captive-bred tigers when they visit to audit the
wine made using to justify the manufacture of farms. The EIA has called for the
tiger bones, despite tonic wines so no action can be Chinese government to destroy
the fact that the taken against manufacturers,” the stockpile of tiger bones at
p ra c t i c e h a s b e e n i l l e g a l i n Banks said. tiger farms across the country
the country since 1993. AFP and is seeking a ban on the farms
reports that the London-based B e l i e ve d t o h ave m e d i c i n a l altogether.
Environment Investigation properties in China, in the
Agency (EIA) has uncovered production of tiger tonic wines, In December 2011, the
evidence of a legalised domestic tiger bones are left to soak in the International Fund for Animal
trade in captive-bred tiger wine for varying lengths of time Welfare applauded a Chinese
products. and then removed before bottling. government order that stopped
The wines sell for between £65- the sale of hundreds of bottles
“The stark contradiction between £500 a bottle depending on how of tiger bone wine at an auction
China’s international posture long the tiger bone was in contact in Beijing. Auction house
supporting efforts to save the with wine for. Googut listed over 400 bottles
wild tiger and its domestic of tiger bone wine from various
policies which drive the poaching China is signed up to the UN traditional Chinese medicine
of wild tigers is one of the biggest Convention on International manufacturers in an auction
cons ever perpetrated in the Trade in Endangered Species e n t i t l e d “ B o u n c i n g D ra g o n ,
history of tiger conservation,” that forbids international Jumping Tiger”.
Debbie Banks, head of the EIA commercial trade in tiger parts
Tiger Campaign, told AFP. and derivatives. With over 200 Tigers are a critically endangered
tourist attraction tiger farms species, with as few as 3,500
The EIA report also presented housing around 5,000 tigers, remaining in the wild. Despite
evidence that traders are using China has the largest number of this, tiger products are frequently
“secret” government notifications captive bred tigers in the world. traded at auction in China, often
to legitimise the manufacture of According to Banks, when the disguised as “antiques” and
tiger bone wine. “A government tigers die at the farms, their bones “collectables”.
H
istorians in Germany “...it would not bring joy to the
are debating whether palate.”
or not to open what
is believed to be the
world’s oldest bottle
of wine. The 1,650-year-old bottle,
sealed with wax and containing a
white liquid, has been on display
at the Pfalz Historical Musuem for
more than a century.
“I had two priorities, one was to ensure that my glass was permanently
topped up with Veuve Clicquot and the other was to simply enjoy a glorious
day. I’m proud to say that I succeeded in both.”
The innovative
internal aluminum
protection also keeps
your bottle of Veuve
Clicquot Rosé fresh
for up to 2 hours.
Answers must be posted on the Wine Extra Facebook Page under the competrition post - Competition
closes 10 April 2013 at midday.
Terms & conditions 6. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash.
1. Only readers resident in the Republic of South Africa are eligable 7. Personal information collected will not be shared with any third
for entry. parties.
2. Competition entrants must be at least 18 years of age. 8. Staff members of TWS Media, and their agencies, as well as their
3. Prizes may not be redeemed for cash. immediate families may not enter.
4. The judges decision is final and no correspondence will be 9. If the prize is not clamed within 3 months of the prize winner
entered into. being announced, the winner forfeits the prize.
5. The prize winner will be notified via Facebook.
We’ve Been Drinking
Libby’s Pride Shiraz 2009
April 2013
+
This month: Spier Harvest Braai Franschhoek Summer Wines
+ A Wine Lover’s Dream +
Earth Hour Night Picnic at Steenberg
+ ATKV Franschhoek Oesfees +
Street Soirees celebrate the
Stellenbosch lifestyle + +
Taste of Cape Town Bot River Barrels &
+ +
Beards 2013 One & Only’s Wine & Dine Entertaining Elegance
at Nobu +
Catering Chef Wine Club dinner with Waterkloof
Catering Chef Wine Club dinner with Claime d’Or
+
Pre-booking of picnic baskets can be made on 021-713 2211 or email info@steenbrg.co.za. Bistro Sixteen82 will be open for
Tapas as usual until 20:00, along with the tasting room at the Winery, also open until 20:00 for wine purchases.
Booking is essential as seating is limited. For more information or to book, call 011-
453 9974 or email info@cateringchef.co.za.
The evening starts at 19:00 and booking is essential. For more information or to
book, call 011-453 9974 or email info@cateringchef.co.za.
To have your wine event listed in our ‘Get Out’ section in any of SA’s
major cities, please email details to maryna@wine-extra.co.za.
40 WINE EXTRA APRIL 2013
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