Overhand Knot - Rope/Webbing

Webbing Overhand Loop on a Bight

 Water Knot
Overhand Bight with Webbing
 Figure 8 on a Bight
Figure 8 Follow Through
Figure 8 Stopper Knot
Figure 8 Bend
Double Fishermans
Triple Wrap Prusik Hitch

Triple wrap
Prusik Hitch
Butterfly Knot
Square Knot
Seat Harness
 Wrap 3 Pull 2
High-Strength Tie-Off
Radium Release Hitch
Break Bar Rack
Low Angle Litter tie-in
Belay Line System
Main Line Lower and Raise System
Main Line System from Lower to Raise
Main Line System from Raise to Lower
 Reference 1
Rope Construction
 Reference 2
Static Rope / Hardware
 Reference 3
Dynamic Rope use / Knot Strength
 Reference 4
Anchor Angle / Load
 Reference 5
Anchor Angle / Load
 Reference 6
Force on Anchors / Low & High Angle Risk
 Reference 7
Pulling Force
 Reference 8
Rope Fiber Chart

Rope Fiber Comparison Chart

Characteristics
Poly- Poly-
1=Best 6+Poorest Nylon Polyester Kevlar Spectra
propylene ethylene
Strength 3 4 5 6 2 1

Shock force absorption 1 5 3 4 6 2

Abrasion resistance 3 2 4 5 6 1

Flexing endurance 1 2 4 5 6 3

Wet strength (%) 85 98 100 105 100 100

Floats/sinks sinks sinks floats floats sinks floats

Specific gravity 1.14 1.38 0.91 0.95 1.44 0.97

Elongation at break (%) 15-28 12-15 18-22 20-24 1.5-3.6 2.7-3.5

Water absorbion (%) 6 <1 0 0 0 0

Low working temp (˚F) -70 -70 -20 -100 -100 -200

Sticky point (F˚) 250 275 200 150 350 150

Melting point (F˚) 480 500 330 285 800 297

Creep 4 2 5 6 1 3

Resistance to Degradation
Sunlight UV Good Excellent Poor Fair Fair Excellent

Acids Poor Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Excellent

Alkalis Good Poor Good Good Good Excellent

Oil and gas Good Good Good Good Good Good

Elect. conductivity resist. Poor Good Good Good Good Good

Source: Compiled from Cordage Institute Information and Wellington Puritan rope and fiber comparison
 Reference 9
Marin County Sheriff's Search and RescueTeam Technical Rescue Protocol

SYSTEMS
High angle evolution:
• lowering – use brake bar rack
• hauling – use Z-rig (pig-rig can be an option where necessary, with appropriate experience)
• belay – use tandem prusiks

Low angle evolution:

• litter going down – use brake bar rack
• litter going up – use single prusik

COMMANDS
• for a typical high angle evolution (individual situations may requires variations)

once rigging is complete

1) rescue team leader: stop, safety check
2) edge tender/rescue team leader: rescuer ready?
3) rescuer: ready?
4) edge tender: on belay?
5) belayer: belay on
6) edge tender: ready to lower?
7) lower (station): ready
8) edge tender: lower away slowly
9) lower: lowering
10) rescuer: stop, reached subject ADDITIONAL COMMANDS:
11) edge tender: stop • anyone at anytime: stop (+why stop)
12) edge tender: lock lower -everyone holds position, no rope movement
13) lower: lower locked -after a ‘stop’ and the situation is resolved, return to step 2
14) edge tender: lock belay • anyone at anytime: rock (refers to anything falling over the
15) belayer: belay locked edge/from above)
16) edge tender: rescuer ready? -those below hold head level so their helmets protect them; DO NOT
17) rescuer: ready LOOK UP
18) edge tender: on belay? • edge tender always relays commands between rescuer and rope
19) belayer: belay on team when direct communication between the two is not possible
20) edge tender: ready to haul? • slack: feed out rope (e.g. slack haul line, slack belay, tension lower)
21) closest hauler: ready • tension: pull on rope (e.g. tension haul line, tension belay, tension
22) edge tender: tension haul line lower)
23) edge tender: release prusik • rope: rope coil thrown (e.g. over a cliff edge)
24) prusik tender: prusik released • dead line: only those who are anchored go beyond this point
25) edge tender: haul away slowly
26) closest hauler: hauling
27) edge tender: stop
28) edge tender: set prusik
29) prusik tender: prusik set
30) edge tender: resetting
31) edge tender: slack haul line slowly
32) edge tender: take a bight
33) repeat steps 16-26
34) edge tender: rescuer(s) and subject safe (past dead line)
35) rescuer: off belay
36) belayer: belay off
 Reference of Illistrations and Information
Recommended Reading

On Rope North American Vertical Rope Techniques

by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett
Illustrations by Ron Buffington

Alpine Operations
by Mark V. Lonsdale

Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Edition

by The Mountaineers
edited by Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson

Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems

by Michael G. Brown

Rope Rescue Manual

by James A. Frank and Jerrold B. Smith

The Handbook of Knots

by Des Pawson

Technical Rescue Riggers Guide

by Rick Lipke

Rope Rescue Manual CMC Field Guide 3rd Edition

by CMC

The Complete Guide to Rope Techneques

by Nigel Shepherd