Subject: Clothing Selection, Purchase and Care

Module: 4 (Care of Clothing)

Lesson: 1-5 (18 Hours Credit/Weeks 13-18)

LEARNING OUTCOMES
At the end of this module, you are expected to,
a. Discuss the care of clothing Daily, Weekly, and Seasonal,
b. List down and discuss the 10 ways to take care of clothes and make them last longer,
c. Discus proper cleaning, mending, and pressing,
d. Explain how to prevent unnecessary soil and wear,
e. Explain the different points to remember in removing any stain.

INTRODUCTION
In this lesson, you will learn the right care of clothing, daily, weekly, and seasonal. You
will also learn the 10 ways to take care of clothes and make them last longer. It is also important
to discuss the proper cleaning, mending, and pressing Please read the materials in this module
and be sure to follow the instruction of each activity so that you will achieve your learning goals.

ELICITING CONCEPTS
Before you proceed into the learning content of this module, be familiarize yourself first
with the necessary words that you will encounter in the entire lesson by getting the meaning of
the following words below.

1. Mending
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

2. Bleaching
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

3. Pressing/ironing
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.
 Learning Activities

Learning Activities
Asynchronous
Content Synchronous
(Google Classroom/messenger
(via Google Meet)
group chat/Printed Module)
Lesson 1. Activity 1
Care or clothing Activity 1 Read appendix 1.1
- Daily Discussion of caring clothes in Care or clothing, Daily, Weekly,
- Weekly daily, weekly and seasonal. Seasonal.
- Seasonal.
Activity 2
Discuss the care of clothing: Create an informative audio
- Daily visual presentation of caring a
- Weekly clothes, daily, weekly and
- Seasonal seasonal.

Lesson 2.
Ways to make clothes last
longer
- List down and discuss the
10 ways to take care of
clothes and make them last
longer.
Activity 1
PowerPoint presentation “10
ways to take care the clothes and
make them last longer”.
https://www.slideshare
.net/UseLondri/how-to-take-care-
of-your-clothes
Activity 1
Read appendix 2.1
Ways to take care clothes and
make them last longer.
Activity 2
Answer worksheet 1.1.

Lesson 3. Activity 1 Activity 1

Cleaning, mending and Class discussion of different Read appendix 3.1
pressing. kinds of clearer, quick stitching, Cleaning, mending and pressing
mending and different method of
Discuss the following: pressing/ironing. Activity 2
Answer worksheet 2.1
- Cleaner
- Quick stitching
- Mending
- Method of pressing/
ironing.
Lesson 4 Activity 1 Activity 1
Prevention of unnecessary soil PowerPoint presentation of the Read appendix 4.1
and wear different Preventions of Mending – Darning and
unnecessary soil and wear. Patching
- Explain how to prevent
unnecessary soil and Activity 2
wear. Answer worksheet 3.1

Lesson 4 Activity 1 Activity 1

Renewal of garments Discussion of the different points Read and study appendix 5.1
to remember in removing any Renewal of garments
- Explain the different stain.
points to remember in Activity 2
removing any stain. Answer the given activity on the
module. Worksheet 4.1

References:
Care of Clothing. Daily •Weekly •Seasonal
By MARTHA ULRICH, Clothing Specialist. https://docplayer.net/99137393-D-34-care-of-clothing-
daily-weelcly-seasonal.html
How do you make sure your clothes last longer?Money Crashers.
https://www.moneycrashers.com/take-care-clothes-last-longer/
 Module 4
Appendix 1.1

Care or clothing, Daily, Weekly, Seasonal

Day-to-Day Care of Clothing·

1. Hang u,p garments as soon as taken off:

a. Coats, dresses, blouses keep shape best if hung on coat hangers that fit the garments.
b. Bias-cut skirts, or skirt,s with 'bias seams, sweaters, and other loose knits are best kept in
boxes.
c. Cover garments s€ldom used with protectors.
2. Wear an apron over dress at home.
3. Look over elotlhing before retiring.
a. Remove spots that need early attention.
b. Brush woolens and silks (brush with nap-silk cloth for silk) .
c. Air in breeze (by window) or leave closet door open; sun occasionally.
d. Place undergarments in laundry bag (hamper in room keeps closet from retaining stale
odor of soiled garments) .
e. Make simple repairs (hooks, buttons, rips, new collar, and cuffs).
4. Rinse hose nightly.
5. Wipe off shoes.
6. Closet and dresser-drawer suggestions:
a. Window and electric light.
b. Hangers padded.
c. Others -Racks -Garment covers
-Boxes -Drawer pockets
-Shelves -Shoe bags, boxes, or rack

Weekly Care

1. Mend clothing before laundering.

2. Darn stockings.
a. Darn on right side, smooth, diamond-shaped to permit stretching.
3. Tears in woolen, use unraveled thread or hair.
4. Spot garments-USDA bulletin "Spot and Stain Removal."
5. Launder clothes.

Basic Rules for Laundering Better Garments.-Manny fabrics in garments in the present-day \vardrobe
are, washable if basic rules are followed. However some finishes are removed by laundering, and styles
render garments difficult to iron.

1. Lukewarm soft water-98° F. Soft water should be used for laundering better garments.
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate is a good "water softener.
2. Neutral 'soap or sulfonated alcohol.
3. Quick, gentle handling (squeeze suds through garn1ellts); handle by lifting.
4. Rinse until water is clear-at least 2 rinses.
5. Remove moisture quickly.
6. Press with moderate iron.
Cotton.-Follow basic rules.
1. Most kinds of cotton are washable; read the label for facts about colorfastness.
2. Colored kinds of cotton need to be tub and sunfast.
3. Cotton should not shrink more than 2 percent to retain the fit of the garment.
4. Cottons that are not colorfast may "bleed" onto other garments as well as fade, so handle quickly,
wash in warm water, do not soak, dry quickly. Place paper between folds to prevent further bleeding during
drying.
5. There is no point in soaking clothes in a salt solution to set
color.
a. Waste of salt
b. May soak out some of the colors.
6. The Bureau of Home Economics of the U. S. Department of Agriculture recommends ways to keep cottons
attractive after washing.
a. To restore crispness to voile, batiste, and organdy, dip in gelatine solution after washing. Buy
cheap, unflavored, unsweetened gelatin. Soak 1 oz. in 1/2 cup water to soften. Add 11/ 2 cup boiling
water. If not dissolved, boil. Add a little borax if mixture is to 'be kept on hand. Add 1 part gelatin
to 5 parts water. Dip fabric and dry. Damp€n and iron. Do not use too hot an iron or too much
pres-sure.
b. Sizing. One-third cup oil added to 1 cup starch and 5 parts water gives required softness and
excellent finish. Turkey-red oil, palm oil, cocoanut oil, or cottonseed oil are all good.
c. Gum arabic can be used to size dark garments. Pour ½ pint boiling water on 1 oz. gum arabic; let
stand, stirring frequently, then strain.

Fine Fabrics.-Follow basic rules. Spun rayons can be treated like fine wool,s. Not all rayons and silks are
wasahabIe. Observe label and washing instructions.

1. If washability is questioned, m a k e color and shrinkage test.

2. Slight shrinkage can be overcome by stretching back to shape during drying and ironing.
3. When rolling in towel to blot moisture, protect contrasting colors by fold of towel. (Don't wring).
4. Crepes need stretching; jersey sneed blocking.
5. Do not soak.
6. Dry on hanger or roll in towel.
7. Use mo·derately hot iron. Try first on back of hem.
8. Use lower temperature for acetates. Avoid pressing nylon. If it must be pressed, use a warm iron.
Do not try to press viny-on ties.
9. Seams on rayon may fray; buy wide or finished seams, or finish them yourself.
10. Don't dry silks, rayon, or nylon in sunlight or over artificial heat.

Foundation Garments.-Worn next to the skin, these garments absorb perspiration which injures
fibers and elastic.

1. Wash frequently to prevent deterioration and restore shape.

2. Follow basic rules for washing of fine fabrics.
3. Pull into shape after blotting out moisture.
4. Layout flat or hang evenly to dry. Do not place near artificial heat.
5. Press only lace or fa1bric, part \vith moderately hot iron.

Lingerie.-These garments are mostly made of rayon, silk, or nylon in plain, crepe, or satin "reaves, or
knitted jerseys.

1. Wash frequently.
2. Follow basic rules for washing.
3. Turn satins inside out to prevent fuzzing.
4. Be careful with colored bindings.
5. Knitted garments pulled into shape need no ironing.
6. Press lace over turkish towel.
Gloves.-Wash gloves, leather especially, b€fore they become too soiled. Hard scrubbing will injure
surface of glove.

1. Wash only those gloves marked or sold as washable.

2. Do not wash leather gloves that have been dry-cleaned.
3. Follow basic rules for \va-shing for both fabric and leather gloves.
4. Wash leather gloves inside and out. Use sponge or soft bruslh on spots.
5. A void rub-bing ,vool gloves.
6. A, light suds rinse for doeskin and chamois. Otherwise rinse thoroughly.
7. Blow in gloves after rolling in to\vel to remove excess moisture.
8. Stuff glove with tissue if various colors are used on same glove.
9. Dry away from heat.
10. Before entirely dry, ,vork leather ,vith fingers.

Hosiery.-
1. Follow 'basic rules for fine fabrics.
2. Wash after eac~ wearing.
3. Avoid rubbing "'oolen hose-dry on frame.
4. Roll in towel.
5. Rayon hose are weak when wet so allow extra drying time since they will not dry over night.

Press and Iron Garments.-

1. Iron dark colors and piques on wrong sides.
2. Iron cotton garments and hang on hanger to keep sllape.
3. Brush an,d remove stains before pressing "voolens. (Fine sandpaper followed by a soap-suds-and-
ammonia rinse will remove shine.)
4. Use woolen pressing cloth on woolens.
5. Hang woolens to dry don't press completely dry!

Accessory Care.-
1. Save your shoes.
a. Have at least two pairs ,of shoes; don't wear the same pair every day. Nylon
hose do not absorh perspiration but the leather of shoes does. They need time to dry
thoroughly before wearing again.
b. Improve their good appearance with regular polishings. This also helps preserve and keep
the leather soft.
c. Place shoe trees whieh do not stretch shoes out of shape, in shoes immediately after
wearing.
d. Stuff slhoes with paper when wet.
e. Dry wet shoes away from heat.
f. Wear rubbers and galoshes to protect shoes from rain or snow.
g. Use shoe bags and ,sh.oe racks to protect shoes from dust.
h. Watch soles for ·breaks. Resole only if the uppers justify the expense.
i. Retip soles before they are too run-down.
j. Have heels straightened as soon as they begin to wear unevenly.
k. Run-down heels may twist shoes out of shape and shorten their life.
2. Brush hats (keep in covered box).
3. Stuff purses with paper.
4. Wash and starch collar-and-cuff sets and other lingerie touches.
5. Keep gloves neat.
6. Keep hankies spotless.
Seasonal Care

1. Inventory wardrobe to determine condition of clothing and changes needed that might involve:
a. Dry-cleaning. b. Dyeing. c. Remodeling.
2. Wash summer clothes
a. Do not starch or iron but fold or roll to store for winter.
b. Soft, crepe-like fabrics should be folded with layers of tissue paper and placed in boxes.
3. Winter clothing or woolens
a. "Out flank" the moth.
b. Collect all ,vinter items.
c. Inspect for soil, then dry clean, or launder.
(1) Two or three inches of soap suds increases efficiency of suds.
(2) Don't leave soap in woolens.
(3) Dry-clean garments. Air, but d,o not press when
preparing for storage.

d. Bruslh and hang on line to air and sun, all garments not soiled enough to clean.
e. Clean felt hats before storing. Ca.re as for woolens.
(1) Carbontetrachloride is safe to use as solvent.
(2) Store hats in separate -boxes.
f. Shake fur trim, turn out pockets, turn up collars, inspect seams and hems, and brush or sha.ke.
g. Pack carefully and lightly in mothproof box with large amount of paradichlorobenzine between folds.
h. Place in dustproof containers.
(1) The right hangers are important.
(2) Stuff sleeves with tissue.
(3) Tape folds of cardboard dress boxes.
i. Store in cool, dry spot.

4. Care of fur.
a. Hang on hanger.
b. Don't perfume.
c. Wear away from neck.
d. Air frequently but not in strong light.
e. Clean frequently.
f. Storage in refrigerator vaults is best.
g. GU111 camphor discolors fur.
h. Wet fur sould be "riped , with turkish towel along flow of fur.
(1) Hold hen1 and shake.
(2) Dry so air can eirculate.
(3) If drenched take to furrier.
i. Clean fur by:
(1) Sawdust, redcedar dust or sifted cornmeal mixed with solvent can be rubbed into the
fur and then brushed out.
(2) Sprinkle fullers earth on garment and leave for 24 hours. Beat out. Glaze fur with
water.
(3) Clean in naphtha and treat with paraffin.
5. Protect rUlb'ber clothing, overshoes, boots, raincoats.
a. Clean with soap and water.
b. Wash with clear water.
c. Dry thoroughly away from heat.
d. Never use oils or solvents.
e. Stuff overshoes and boots with crumpled paper.
f. Pack loosely in boxes.
g. St,ore in cool, dark place.
6. Care of leather
Increase wearing qualities by keeping articles clean, pliable, and water resistant.
a. Shoes should be cleaned, oiled, sunned, and dried before storing.
(1) Saddle soap or neutral soaps may be used on washable leathers.
(2) Waterproof dressings such as unsalted tallow or fat or recommended oils may be
applied when the leather is dry.
(3) Clean g,ood shoes with shoe cream.
(4) Soles may be oiled with castor oil to keep them pliable.
b. Calfskin belts and purses may be cleaned in the same manner.
c. Unlined leather jackets may be cleaned out-of-doors as follows:
 (1) Dissolve 2 T. vaseline or 4' T. finely shaved paraffin in one pint of solvent Stoddards
Specifications.
(2) Wipe smooth side with dry cloth, and brush unfinished side to remove dust.
(3) Use one-half of vaseline or paraffin mixture in solvent sufficient to 'cover coat.
(4) Soak one-half hour.
(5) Scrub inside and out with brush.
(6) Rinse in two solvent baths, each containing one·· half the remaining solution.
(7) Blot solvent from coat.
(8) Put on hanger and dry. Polish when dry; brush nap side.
d. Clean kid gloves in same manner.

ACTIVITY Level 1
The multimedia element lacks a
clear point of view and logical
sequence of information.
Content Missing requirements. Does not
(40%) address aspects such as one
objective focus, visual images,
written words, and self
contained.
Multimedia element is unclear.
If sound is included, it is not
Quality
easy to hear/understand. If
(20%)
video is included, it cannot be
seen and/ or cannot be heard.
Description does not include the
Included
main parts of a lesson (intro,
Description
objective, content, and
(20%)
assessment).
APA
Formatting Uses little to no correct APA
(as needed) formatting.
20%
Module 3
Appendix 1.2
Rubric for Audiovisual Presentation
Level 2
The multimedia element is vague
in conveying a point of view and
does not create a strong sense of
purpose.
Includes some of the
requirements. Somewhat
addresses aspects such as one
objective focus, visual images,
written words, and self contained.
Multimedia element is mostly
unclear. If sound is included, it
is not easy to hear/understand. If
video is included, it cannot be
seen and/ or cannot be heard.
Description includes some
information regarding the main
parts of a lesson (intro, objective,
content, and assessment).
Reflects incomplete knowledge
of APA formatting.
Level 3
The multimedia element reflects
a fairly logical progression of
ideas.
Includes ALL assignment
requirements. Addresses aspects
such as one objective focus,
visual images, written words,
and self-contained
Multimedia element is
somewhat clear. If sound is
included, it is easy to
hear/understand. If video is
included, it can be seen and/ or
can be heard.
Description somewhat addresses
the main parts of a lesson (intro,
objective, content, and
assessment).
Documents most sources using
APA formatting with minor
violations.
Level 4
The multimedia element is clear
and concise, with a very logical
progression of ideas.
Includes ALL assignment
requirements. Clearly addresses
aspects such as one objective
focus, visual images, written
words, and self-contained
Multimedia element is clear. If
sound is included, it is easy to
hear/understand. If video is
included, it can be seen and/ or
can be heard.
Description clearly and
concisely addresses ALL of the
main parts of a lesson: intro,
objective, content, and
assessment.
Documents sources using APA
formatting accurately and
consistently.
 Module 4
Appendix 2.1
10 Ways to Take Care of Your Clothes and Make Them Last Longer

Whether you’re a total fashionista or you avoid the mall at all costs, you probably spend a lot
more than you think on clothing. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average
American family spent $1,736 on clothes in 2012. Although kids outgrow their clothing fairly quickly,
adults can hang onto theirs for years – as long as it doesn’t wear out.

Since longer-lasting clothing means more money in your pocket, be sure you do all you can to
preserve your wardrobe. Of course, it may require changing a few habits. Luckily, you don’t need
special products to keep your whites sparkling and your dark garments looking sharp.

Making Clothes Last

1. Start With Quality
While I don’t recommend buying overly expensive brand-name garments, it’s always a good
idea to purchase quality clothing. By spending more on quality pieces that never go out of style, you
create a solid base wardrobe with longevity in mind. You can then add in cheaper, trendier pieces for a
season or two without feeling guilty. Those quality investment pieces last longer thanks to thicker
fabrics and better construction.

It’s also a question of quantity versus quality. When purchasing kids’ clothes, you usually want
to go for quantity, since the items are only going to fit for a few seasons. However, when purchasing
professional clothes for yourself or a pair of jeans to wear daily, it’s better to invest in one quality item
than five poorly made pieces that may need to be replaced in a few months.

Decide where to allot your clothing budget. Set some money aside for trendy, fun items, and
reserve some cash for pieces that are bound to stand the test of time. Some of the clothes and items I
don’t mind investing in include the following:

• Two-piece business suit

• Classic trench or pea coat
• Comfortable, well-made shoes
• Well-fitting jeans
• A few crisp button-up shirts or blouses

When clothes shopping, look for clues that an item is made to last – and remember, price isn’t
the only indicator. Instead, try to spot attention to detail, as well as tight seams and buttons. If the
material is overly thin, or you see loose threads, buttons, or snags, those are clues that an item may not
be very well made.

2. Pay Attention to Laundering

That tag found on the neck or down the side seam of your shirt is not for decoration: It gives
you a garment’s laundering instructions, which are designed to ensure that it stays in great shape.

If you know you hate hand-washing and line-drying, avoid buying clothes that require special
care. You’d be better off spending your money on sturdier items. In fact, looking at laundering
instructions is part of my shopping process. Even if it’s a steal, a piece that requires dry cleaning could
cost more in the long run – especially if you choose to ignore care instructions and end up ruining it.

Some other laundering tips can help keep your clothes in great shape. While you should always
check the instructions on the tag, these are some general techniques to keep in mind as you hang out in
the laundromat or laundry room.

• Wash Dark Clothing Inside-Out. Dark-wash jeans, black blouses, and other darker material
can become faded in the wash, particularly as it rubs up against other garments. Always launder
your washer-safe dark clothes inside-out to ensure they hold their color.

• Invest in a Clothesline or Drying Rack. If you don’t have a place to line-dry your clothes, they
usually end up in the dryer – a death knell for line-dry-only garments. A clothesline only costs a
 few dollars and it can also help you save on energy costs. If you don’t have the yard or the
climate to dry clothes outside, a drying rack for your laundry room is only about $20.

• Wash Metal Separately. Buttons and zippers often find their way into the wash, but can become
seriously hot in the dryer, which can lead to scorching and melting on your other clothes. Wash
clothing with metal components separately and never with delicate clothes, such as silks or knits.

• Go Color-Safe. Is there anything more frustrating than ruining clothes with bleach? While it
helps make your whites whiter, it can also stain colored clothes and damage delicate fibers.
Swap your regular bleach for a color-safe alternative, which is also gentler on fabric.

• Wash Your Clothes Less. The washing process is famously tough on clothes. Agitating,
tumbling, and coming in contact with other garments can leave garments faded, stretched,
pilling, and damaged. Unless your outerwear is visibly dirty, you probably don’t need to wash it
after each wearing. See if you can extend washing to every other wear, or even three wears,
before you toss your garments in the laundry.

• Get to Know Your Settings. While each make and model of common: They come with
instruction manuals. Read up on your model so you know when to use “wrinkle release” as
opposed to “delicate.” Delicate settings traditionally work well for lingerie, but they’re also
effective for clothes that you want to preserve and treat gently. The delicate cycle uses less
agitation, so there’s less wear and tear. This setting is perfect for lightly soiled stuff that requires
a little extra care, or for items that specify the “delicate” setting on the tag.

3. Practice Good Hygiene

It may sound simple, but practicing good hygiene – such as showering daily, wearing
deodorant, and using proper undergarments – can help keep your clothes cleaner and in better
condition. Don’t forget that sweat also causes stains. By insisting that your family members treat their
clothing with cleanliness and care, you should get some extra uses out of each piece.

It also pays to make sure you wear the right clothes for the right events. If you know things are
going to get messy at a birthday party, don’t send your daughter wearing an expensive lace dress. Or, if
you’re going out to a bar where people smoke, opt for your cheaper wardrobe items.

4. Learn Basic Repairs

Learning to complete basic repairs on your clothing – such as replacing a loose thread or a
missing button – can make them last longer and save you a ton of money. Even if you’re perfectly
careful with your garments, fallen hems and buttons that pop off can take shirts and pants out of
commission. You can always bring your clothes to a tailor for a fee, but why spend the money if you
can do the repair on your own?

A simple sewing kit – which you can find at many big box retailers – costs just a few dollars
and contains scissors, a variety of needle sizes, and thread. Even if you’ve never sewed before, online
videos can teach you everything you need to know, from buttonhole stitching to repairing a zipper. If
you can tie a knot in the end of the thread and weave the needle in and out of the fabric, that’s enough
to get started
5. Iron With Care

When you iron, you’re using heat to loosen fabric fibers and press them flat. Unfortunately,
there’s also a good chance you can end up burning or yellowing the fabric if you’re not doing it
properly. Using too much heat on delicate fabrics can completely ruin them, so make sure you always
use the right heat level for the type of fabric you’re ironing.

Many irons have different levels for various fabrics on the heat dial, but here’s a general guide:

• Linen: 445° F
• Cotton: 400° F
• Viscose/Rayon: 375° F
• Wool: 300° F
• Acrylic: 275° F
• Polyester: 300° F
• Silk: 300° F
• Acetate: 290° F
• Lycra: 275° F
• Nylon: 275° F

Another option is to invest in a steamer for about $25 to $50. It uses moisture and heat to
release wrinkles while clothes are on the hanger, and it can be a lifesaver for the perpetually time-
crunched. Because you don’t have to continually reposition your clothes like you do when ironing,
steaming can save a lot of time. I love steamers for items that need to be deodorized and straightened,
but don’t require clean creases.

6. Rotate Your Clothes

The idea of “last in, first out” doesn’t only apply to produce, but to clothes as well. We all have
a favorite pair of jeans that are snatched out of the dryer as soon as they’re clean, but rotating your
clothes means less wear and tear.

One way that I track my garments is by rotating them in my closet. After laundry day, the clean
stuff goes to the back, while the items still in the closet are moved forward where they’re easier to see
and grab. Eventually, my favorite items rotate from the back to the front of the closet, where they can
be seen and worn again.

This can be especially helpful for kids’ clothes. Children are traditionally pretty hard on their
gear, so rotating it can mean fewer holes in their jeans and less fading on their shirts. Unless, of course,
your little one has a “favorite shirt” – in which case, you might just be out of luck.

7. Practice Good Storage Habits

Whether you have a walk-in closet or a couple of shelves, the way you store your clothes can
make them last for years or, alternatively, leave them looking misshapen and damaged in just a few
months. Here’s how to store your clothes to make sure they last as long as possible:

• Fold Heavy Sweaters on a Shelf. While you might think that hanging is best for your expensive
sweaters, heavier garments such as wool sweaters can actually stretch out when you hang them
in your closet. Your best bet is to stack them folded on a shelf so they keep their shape – and
save that precious hanger space.

• Button Buttons and Zip Zippers. I can’t count the number of times a wayward zipper on one
garment has snagged or scratched the fabric on another while hanging in my closet. Sharp zipper
teeth, studs, and even buttons can catch on clothes and result in damage, so make sure they’re
fastened when you hang them in your closet.

• Invest in Better Hangers. Sure, you can score wire hangers from your dry cleaner for free, but
they’re not made for long-term storage. Wire and plastic hangers can stretch out the shoulders of
your garments, which means they won’t lay nicely on your body. Consider investing in better
hangers with wood or plush arms, which help garments keep their shape.
 • Give Clothes Some Breathing Room. Even if you’re short on space, resist the urge to pack
your closet full of clothes. Squishing a ton of items next to each other can result in wrinkling and
fading as the fabrics are constantly mashed together. If you’re having to squish hangers and
garments just to squeeze in another shirt, it may be time to look into other storage solutions. For
example, a standalone armoire can help reduce some of the pressure on a bulging closet.

• Think Cool and Dry. Excess moisture and heat can encourage mold growth – even on clothes.
The mantra for your closet should be “cool and dry.” Never store clothes in a humid bathroom or
moist basement closet.

8. Dye Faded Clothes

I have a pair of black skinny jeans that fit like a glove. Of course, after near-constant wash and
wear, those black jeans are beginning to look gray and worn-out.

While looking for laundry soap at my local grocery store, I came across some easy-to-use
clothing dye for just a few dollars. Simply add it to your sink or a bucket, add water, and follow the
package directions for getting the best color. It usually takes 20 to 30 minutes of stirring to ensure even
coloring. After the garment has been colored, rinse it with cool water and hang to dry.

Typically, garment dyes work best on solid colors, and can help to bring faded or stained
clothes back to their former glory. A box of dye costs around $6 and contains two treatments. Just make
sure that you wash your newly dyed item with like colors the first time you run it – the dye can come
off on other items.

9. Dress After Your Hair and Makeup

Women’s clothing often takes more of a beating when compared to men’s. Why? Because
women use cosmetics that can stain and fade garments. By doing your hair and makeup before you get
dressed, you can avoid those pitfalls. Buy a robe to wear while you go through your daily routine to
prevent things like lipstick and bronzer from getting on your garments.

Unfortunately, hair dye and hairspray can seriously damage clothes. Hairspray is a main culprit
for fading, so resist the urge for a final spray before you head out the door. Also, if you dye your hair at
home, make sure to wear old shirts while you’re doing it. Hair dyes are generally permanent and can
easily ruin a favorite shirt. You can also wrap a thin towel around your shoulders to protect your
clothes from your various cosmetics products if you don’t want to mess up your hair by putting on a
shirt after it’s done.

Don’t forget about deodorant and antiperspirant. When you apply, make sure it’s completely
dry before putting on a shirt. The aluminum contained in many antiperspirants can turn clothes yellow
and cause brittleness.

10. Adjust Your Dryer

If you were to name the appliance in your home most damaging to clothes, it would definitely be the
dryer. The heat can scorch clothes and cause shrinking, fading, and even pilling. However, it’s hard to
argue with the convenience it offers – you use the appliance because it saves you time.
 If you want the best of both worlds, check your dryer settings – many allow you to configure
temperature, timing, and dryness. You can try lowering the overall temperature and keeping the same
dry time, taking clothes out while they’re still damp. Or, if you don’t have temperature settings, you
could just set the timer for 15 minutes fewer than normal, then transfer your clothes to dry on a laundry
rack. Taking clothes out of the dryer before they’re done also minimizes shrinking in many fabrics such
as denim – so your jeans might actually fit better.

Final Word

Unfortunately, not all clothing items are meant to last forever. They’re bound to wear out, fade,
and change shape after repeated use. Still, by being a little more careful in the way you clean, handle,
and store your clothes, you can get months and even years of extra wear out of each piece. When you
multiply those results by the number of members in your family, it adds up to big savings.
 Module 4
Appendix 3.1

Cleaning
10 Powerful Stain Removal Products You Should Always Have On Hand

Stains are inevitable, but that doesn't mean you have to toss out your favorite shirt or fabric item
when accidents happen. With the right stain removal products, you can easily lift out stubborn fabric
stains, including those caused by grease, paint, and even rust. Keep these items on hand in your laundry
area to combat spots and marks on clothing and linens as they happen. Follow the label instructions for
use on fabric, and keep all products on upper shelves or in locked upper cabinets, out of the reach of
children. It's also important to never leave any of these products on your washing machine or dryer, as
drips could damage machine surfaces. Before using any stain-removal product, experiment with the
cleaner on an inconspicuous part of the fabric item. Here are some of the best stain removal products you
should always have in your laundry arsenal.

1. Chlorine Bleach and Color-Safe Bleach

Diluted household bleaches are among the most effective stain removers for clothing and linens.
Always check clothing labels for directions on the use of bleach. When diluted properly, bleaches are safe
for fabrics including cotton, linen, rayon, and synthetics such as nylon and polyester. Be sure to use color-
safe bleach on anything that isn't white.

2. Color Remover

Color-removal products are designed for situations when a color runs onto a nearby lighter color
on the same garment or transfers to other items in the laundry. Although bleaches are included in this
family of products, color removers, such as those from the Rit brand, are designed lift out dye stains on
clothing without damaging the fabric. They are also sometimes used to lighten the color of a garment
before it's redyed. These products typically contain sodium hydrosulfite or sodium carbonate anhydrous.
Always work with transfer stains or discoloration before drying or ironing the garment. Heat typically sets
the color.

3. Dry-Cleaning Fluid or Petroleum-Base Pretreatment Solvent

Petroleum-base solvents, such as K2r Spotlifter, are specifically designed for stains caused by
grease, gasoline, or other petroleum products. These solvents come in sticks, gels, squeeze bottles, pump
sprays, and aerosol sprays. Some pretreatment spot-lifters have a detergent or surfactant base, rather than
a solvent base.

Dry-cleaning fluids are often used for pretreating stains from ballpoint ink, candle wax, crayons,
eye makeup (such as mascara, pencil, liner, or shadow), lipstick, and tar. Common dry-cleaning fluids
contain perchloroethylene or trichloroethylene and can be extremely flammable; they should be used only
as directed.

4. Mild Dishwashing Detergent

For hand-washing stained fabrics, turn to dishwashing liquid (not dishwasher liquid).
Some dishwashing liquids can help break up grease and separate it from the fabric. This cleaning product
is also effective for loosening food stains (such as those from fruit). Dishwashing liquid is sometimes
combined with glycerin (1/4 cup each) and 1-1/2 cups water as a general stain-removing mixture.

5. Nonsudsing Household Ammonia

Nonsudsing ammonia, such as the kind used for cleaning glass doors and windows, works great
for stains that have odors, such as urine or perspiration, as well as fatty or greasy stains. For most fabrics,
dilute the ammonia with an equal amount of water. Nonsudsing ammonia can be used on wool and silk.
Although ammonia can be used on latex-paint stains, it should never be used on garments containing latex
because the ammonia can dissolve it.
 Important Safety Tip: If you're using liquid ammonia with another cleaner, always make sure
the other product does not contain any type of bleach. Ammonia and bleach combine to form an
extremely toxic gas that can be deadly.

6. Paint Remover

Select the type of paint remover you need based on the type of paint that caused the stain.

For latex paints: Treat the area while the stain is wet. Soaking in cold water can help remove
water-based latex paint. Latex-specific spot removers are available for stubborn stains.

For oil-based paints: Treat the stain while it is wet. Use a paint thinner recommended for the
type of paint. Petroleum-base solvents can be used as a pretreatment before laundering.

7. Petroleum Jelly

Petroleum jelly can help when water-based glues or adhesives are stuck to clothing.
Rubbing petroleum jelly into the glue spot will help loosen its hold on the fabric. Rinse the fabric and
reapply the jelly until all traces of the adhesive are gone, then wash in hot water. For ink stains, petroleum
jelly can be used to form a barrier around the ink stain while it is being treated to avoid spreading the ink
to adjoining threads. Blotting petroleum jelly onto lipstick stains is also effective.

8. Prewash Spot Removers

Prewash spot removers are applied to garment stains before laundering. These removers work in a
variety of ways. Cleaning agents or surfactants loosen stains and improve their ability to be carried away
by water. Enzymes work on protein stains, such as blood, to make it easier for the laundry detergent to
clean. Other pretreatments make the stain more alkaline so it can be more easily cleaned, while
pretreatment bleach improves whiteness.

Prewash products are available in an aerosol, spray, stick, liquid, gel, foam, powder, or wipe.
Some are meant for laundry room use, while others can be carried as convenient, immediate stain
treatments, such as the Tide To Go Stain Remover Pen, when away from home.

9. Rust Removers

Rust is one of the most difficult stains to remove. As with many other stains, it is important not to
set the stain. Do not subject the fabric to a dryer or other heat. Most rust-removing products, such
as Whink stain remover, contain oxalic or hydrofluoric acids, which are poisons. Because the products
suspend the iron-oxide particles in the water, it is especially important to rinse the fabric well because
those particles can be toxic. Most rust removers should only be used on white or colorfast fabrics.

10. White Vinegar

Common white vinegar offers a number of solutions for stains in the laundry room. Here are
some handy recipes to keep on hand to fight specific stain problems.

Collar rings: Make a solution of 1/4 cup salt, 1 cup vinegar, and 3 quarts warm water. Soak the
stained garment for an hour.

Cough syrup: Use a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent,
and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Soak the stain for 15-30 minutes, then rinse and launder as usual.

Salt stains: Mix one part vinegar with three parts water, and wipe salt stains off shoes and leather
garments with a cloth dipped in the solution.

Urine stains on mattresses: Sponge the area with a mixture of water and detergent. Rinse with a
mixture of vinegar and water; let dry. If an odor remains, sprinkle with baking soda and let stand
for 24 hours. After the mattress is dry, vacuum to remove the baking soda.
 Mending

Mending of tears in fabric {10 best methods including invisible mending}

Best ways to deal with Fabric tears and holes

Repairing clothes is not the happiest of all sewing jobs I know. But it is sometimes a necessary
thing you ‘have’ to do, when you see holes in a favourite garment you do not want to lose yet.

You could have had that hole due to several reasons – some acidic thing fell on the garment, moth
ate away fabric fibers and left small holes, seam stitching frayed the fabric, you snagged the clothing on
something sharp, buttons and other fasteners strained the fabric and tore the area. Another common cause
of holes is something like the belt buckle or the purse edge or the kitchen sink continuously touching a
particular area and in time wearing down the place to make holes (you will never notice this till you get
that hole gradually).

In our house most of the time, clothes get holes because of incorrect pressing – the iron box burns
holes in the fabric very easily when the temperature is not compatible. This happens with synthetic
clothing than ones made with natural fabrics. Actually, polyester clothing is more likely to get these holes
than cotton, linen etc – just prevent before they are even made. More of that below.

Let us look at the different ways you can repair those holes to make the garment almost like it
was earlier. You may want to learn some easy hand stitches and some sewing techniques that teach you
how to sew if you are a sewing novice.

1. Simple adjustments

If you have a knit fabric dress/top/leggings whatever, small holes (pinhead sizes) are a given.
Simple small holes can be repaired fast on these fabrics. Just turn the clothing inside out. Take a big
needle and carefully arrange the nearby threads to cover the small hole. Ever so lightly, stretch the fabric
in all the directions and the hole most probably will repair itself.

2 Mending with fusible web/ iron on mending fabric

If the tear is very small and is on thin fabrics like t-shirt knits an immediate solution is to keep a
thin lightweight fusible interfacing under the tear and press with hot iron. The small hole will mend, as
the cut thread will fuse to the interfacing underneath.

You can use the iron-on-mending fabric available in stores for this same purpose. This fabric
comes with adhesive on one side. The disadvantage is that this method is not suitable for synthetic fabrics
like polyester, nylon or even rayon (or use with extreme caution).

You will have to ever so lightly stretch the hole as you press so that the loose threads will adhere
to the interfacing underneath

Use a pressing cloth between the fabric and iron to prevent press marks.
Mending with fusible web & stitching

If the tear is longer without too much depth you can use the fusible interfacing underneath and
then use joining stitches to join the edges together as in a butt seam. Use a very closely matched colour
thread to stitch this. You can use zigzag stitches to butt the seam

If you have a long tear, another option is to keep the fabric edges right sides together and sew
them together as if it is a seam. This works better with patterned or textured fabric as the seam will not be
very visible.

You will have to stitch very close to the fabric edges and even closer near the tips, like you are
sewing a dart. Now open it up and press. Finish the fabric edges with fray check sealant or small whip
stitches, otherwise, before long the tear will open up again.

3. Use mending glue for fabrics

Sometimes you cannot bother to sew or the rip is in an area you simply cannot sew, like in a sofa,
car seats.The mending glue can be used to mend seam rips like that of a ripped open pocket. You will
have to keep the area tightly clamped overnight after a generous application of the glue and not wash it
for a day or so for proper adherence.

There are special fabric glues that can seal the small tears on fabric almost invisibly. A
waterproof layer is formed by the glue as soon as it is applied on the fabric surface. This can be a solution
for repairing small tears when you have no option to use any of the options given above and below.
4 Seam repair – Mend a Rip in the seam

If the rip is on a seam, you can machine stitch easily enough – just sew the seam with a straight
stitch remembering to anchor thread with back stitches at the starting and ending so that stitching would
not get undone. If your seam is anything other than the normal variety you will need to read the post.

But what if you are in a place with no sewing machine in sight – just take out your sewing
emergency kit -thread your needle and make a ladder stitch.

Ladder stitch is a pretty cool hand stitch which makes your stitching invisible.

5. Darning and other stitches

When you say Invisible mending, it is invisible darning that is at the heart of it. Darning is used
when the hole is bigger – when the fabric has singed/frayed due to thin fibers etc you may have to cut
away the scorched/frayed portion and this makes it too big for the above solutions. Darning will replace
the fabric fibers which are missing.

Darning involves sewing the rip/tear and covering it with very small stitches in the same colour as
the background fabric. You can use hand sewing needle and thread or a sewing machine with a darning
foot to make the darning stitches.

You can also use decorative stitches like an arrowhead stitch or other filling stitches to cover the
rips and tears.
6. Mending with clothing patches

This involves getting a fabric piece from the same garment or a store bought one like the above
picture and then using it to repair the tear/hole.

There are many ways you can sew hand cut / hand made clothing patches on to the fabric and
many ways to make those clothing patches. 8 ways to attach them are described in the post ” different
ways to sew clothing patches“mest clothing patch is fabric taken from the garment itself. Self-fabric for
the patching can be taken from anywhere there is excess fabric like a wide turned hem, facing, extra-wide
seam allowance. If you can somehow cut a little of the fabric to cover the hole/tear this can be used to
cover up the hole perfectly. With clever invisible stitching, no one will be the wiser about the hole after
you have done patching

Calico patching refers to patching fabric with a similar cloth as the base fabric. Print patching
involves patches which have to be matched and is done on patterned and chequered fabric

The best method of machine darning.

My favourite method of sewing the clothing patches involves combining darning stitches with the
patch. Keep a correctly matching colour fabric (of the same weight) or a knit fabric under the hole, use
your free motion stitching skills ( or straight stitches or zig zag stitches) and a matching thread – run the
stitches over the hole ( stitch from the top) just like the thread is woven in the fabric- till you are sure the
whole hole is covered.If it is a matching fabric it will look almost invisible.

But they are not very durable and peel off after a few washes, unless you sew them in place. You
cannot use them on fabrics like nylon or rayon or fabrics made of monofilament polyesters which can get
damaged by heat. But it is a quick fix to mend holes on other fabrics -cotton, denim etc.

7. Decorative applique /ornamental patching

Applique is a fabric embellishment technique of using other fabric pieces to decorate a fabric.
You will be using decorative stitches to sew applique. When used to mend holes in fabric it is also called
ornamental patching.

The advantage of this method is that you are decorating your fabric at the same time mending it;
the disadvantage is that an applique is a very conspicuous as a method of mending holes (unlike the
almost invisible repairs mentioned earlier)
 There are many ways that you can use applique. You can hand sew applique or do machine
applique. Check out the tutorials for more instructions. You will need an applique piece which is at
least 1/2 inch bigger all around than the hole/ tear. An embroidered fabric patch can be made following
this tutorial and used to cover the hole.

Reverse applique is another technique which is as effective. This involves keeping the applique
fabric under the hole; you can get a wonderful texture and beauty by using different kinds of fabrics with
this technique. Keeping net/lace or other open weave fabrics can give a peekaboo look.

8. Embellish with trims/ beadwork/sequins/fabric flowers

If the hole is in an appropriate place you can use some embellishments over the hole to cover it
up. You may have to replicate the design on other areas of the garment for it to look natural.

9. Cut and alter to avoid the tear

If the cut or hole is beyond repair or you cannot summon the energy to repair it carefully, you can
make some alterations to the clothing so that the hole is stitched/cut away. For example, if you find a hole
in the sleeve hem, cut the hem away and sew a new hem or add some extra fabric there as a band or cuff
to add the length you lost. Where is the hole now???.

10. Wear the tear aka ripped clothes/peekaboos

Alright, But the holes have to be in the right places. Find out the different ways people make
ripped jeans and the best places for the rips

Some holes may need some finishing at the fabric edges otherwise the hole will keep on getting
bigger and you may not want the frayed edge look. You can sew a facing and turn the facing to the inside
or just whip stitch the edges for a simple look or just make a running stitch inside the edge, leaving the
frayed thread as it is.

Prevent holes and tears

Prevention is the best solution to all these, of course.

Just be careful – a small fire from a cigarette lighter could leave a burnt hole, buttons hastily
pulled can make a hole, walking carelessly near projecting things like door handles could tear clothes;
And the worst of all and the most common of all – iron setting kept in linen/cotton when pressing nylon is
disastrous. The birth of a lot of holes in clothes in our house.

One way to prevent holes and tears if you are sewing the garment is to use a double thickness of
fabric in places where you know there will be a hole – like knees of kids pants, under the armpit, elbows
of work clothes etc. Interface behind buttons, buttonholes and other fasteners to prevent holes that result
from constant pressure there.
 A stitch in time saves nine. Maybe the hole is now a very small one or just started as a small tear-
but waiting for repairing it is waiting for a catastrophe in the life of that clothing. Tears inevitably grow.
Diligent people darn even before a hole is formed. When you feel that a hole will be inevitable by the
look of a worn-out place like the knee of a kid’s pants you can start the darning. This will prevent the
actual hole from forming.

Fraying near the seams in case of thin fabric can be prevented by using interlining or even
attaching interfacing tape on the seams.

When you wear the same clothes, again and again, holes are inevitable. Rotating clothes so that
all are worn equally can make sure that this is prevented.

The last but not the least important point is to clean and maintain the clothing so that you do not
get tears and holes. ie some of the wear and tear is inevitable but most can be prevented with basic
garment care. Check out the posts on hand washing clothes for longevity, using a laundry wash bag for
delicate snaggable clothes etc. Rubbing clothes with hard brushes to remove stains will eventually lead to
holes. Use other gentler solutions for stains.

Mending is time-consuming but yields good results and a feeling of satisfaction of having done
something towards sustainable living. I promise myself I will do it more often, rather than throw away
good clothing at the first sign of a hole or two. What about you?

Sometimes a whole section of the clothing is replaced with another piece of clothing (Patch) –
others will never guess that this was done because you wanted to mend a tear. They will just think you are
fashionable or quirky, depending on the way you have sewn it or the way they look at it

Ready made patches

You can also buy the ready made assorted clothing patches available at stores. These come in
sizes like 5 x 5 inches and can be applied easily enough. You just need to iron on them.
 THE IMPORTANCE OF IRONING & PRESSING YOUR SEWING CREATIONS

I think that ironing is a hugely important factor in determining whether your creations will
inevitably look polished & professional or home sewn & amateurish. I’ve seen so many gorgeous designs
that never lived up to their potential – that looked homemade rather than amazing. And it breaks my heart
to see that. So I’m just going to say it right off…. if you don’t like ironing, sewing probably isn’t the craft
for you (sorry hehe).

I’m a bit of an ironing super fan, so please forgive me if I geek out on you. Firstly, I think it’s
important to note that ironing and pressing are different actions – and as such have different uses. How I
define them:

• Ironing is when you slide your iron back & forth on the fabric to removed wrinkles

• Pressing is when you place your iron on the fabric and then lift it repetitively, rather than pushing
or sliding it.

It sounds like a lot of effort. But there are a couple of good reasons why sewing &
ironing/pressing go hand in hand:

1. It’s impossible to make your items look polished without a good pressing. Especially when
making tailored pieces and using fabrics like wool or tweed. Seams simply will not lie flat unless
pressed, and you cannot achieve clean lines if your seams & hems are bubbling.

2. Not ironing your fabric before cutting can result in inaccurate cuts, and as a result affect the
overall fit and of course appearance of the garment.

3. There are some techniques and projects you will never master if you refuse to iron. For
example replacing darts with ease can only be done properly if you press (I will post on this
technique later, because i freaking love it), and you will not get a good pleat if you don’t press it.

4. Manipulating fabric. You can permanently change the shape of fabric through ironing &
pressing. Of course this could be good or bad, depending on whether you meant to do it or not!!!
For example ironing your fabric too much, can stretch it out, but ironing can help fix your
mistakes. Yep it’s true. You wouldn’t believe how many of my mistakes I’ve fixed through
pressing or ironing. Recently I was feeling lazy at the end of sewing a dress so instead of lining it
or using facings, binding or whatever to finish the armsyces, I simply turned in the edges. It was a
stupid decision as it resulted in the seams sticking up unattractively. But after a little pressing
they shrunk into shape and looked perfect. Problem solved, butt saved!
Tools
Obviously I think you need an iron. Not all irons are created equal and what kind of iron you use
is up to you – but thats the object of another post. Though I currently use the ridiculously expensive and
completely awesome beast pictured above – I did a post wayyyy back at the beginning of this
blog recommending a budget iron I really loved, you may enjoy reading (though beware it is outdated).

Aside from an iron, there are a host of ironing related doodads you might find useful. I’m a bit of
a minimalist when it comes to sewing/tailoring tools. I think that there is so much junk out there that
retailers try to convince you to buy, when in fact you don’t really need it. Don’t get me wrong, I love
tools and gimics, but there’s wisdom in not going overboard. Anyway, I started rambling. These are some
ironing related things that I cannot live without:

• Tailors Ham. Mine was a gift from my mother in law and I love it! You could quite easily make
a ham, you would just need to stuff it very firmly.

• Pressing cloth. I prefer store bought pressing cloths, but you could quite as easily use a clean
handkerchief or piece of cotton muslin. When using a pressing cloth you need to put it over the
area to be pressed, dampen (not wet) the cloth with some water, and then press on and off until
the cloth is dry. I promise you, a pressing cloth will change your life.

• Spray bottle of water. I like to use a spray bottle of water to dampen my pressing cloth with.
You could just use the spray function on your iron, but when i had an iron with a small reservoir I
found I ended up constantly filling up the iron with water, so I prefered to have a separate source.
Even now that I use a steam generator i still keep a spray bottle of water handy, and like it better
than steam in some situations. You may want to consider keeping a spray bottle of vinegar/water
mix instead of plain water. I’ve only just started doing this (a few weeks ago!) and i’m really
happy with the results.

Tips

Some tips to remember:

• Press your garment as you are sewing. And always press seams & darts either open or to the
side before you sew over them. Pressing at the end of your project is not the same as pressing
each seam after you sew it. I promise. The difference is visible.

• Do not iron/press over pins. Not only is there the risk of them melting, but you can permanently
distort the fabric in the places where the pins were.

• Prewash & iron your fabric before you cut it, trying not to change the shape of the fabric too
much.

• Make sure that you are using the right temperature. You’d be surprised how much difference
this makes. You can destroy a delicate fabric if you iron too hot, but some things like linen will
never look neat unless ironed hot hot hot.

• If you intend to manipulate your fabric, then test the technique out on a scrap piece first
 Module 4
Appendix 4.1

Washing Soiled Clothes and Linens

Keeping clothes and bed linens clean can take time, but it's worth the effort. It can help
the person you're caring for stay healthy and feel clean. Clothes and bed linens become soiled
when they come into contact with things like urine, stool, or vomit. Washing soiled clothes and
linens right away can help reduce infection from germs.

Soiled clothes and linens can cause infection when they come into contact with people or
with any items around the home. So be sure to handle them with care and wear gloves. Hold
them away from you, and keep them from touching clean surfaces or other clean linens.
If you can't wash dirty clothes or linen right away, store them in a container with a lid and wash
them as soon as you can.

How to wash soiled clothes and linens

You can clean clothes and linens in a washing machine, using laundry detergent. Always
wear disposable gloves when handling soiled clothes or linens. And always wash them separately
from other items.

1. Using disposable gloves, wipe off any stool with paper towels. Put the used paper towels
in a plastic trash bag. Small amounts of easily removed stool can be removed with toilet
paper and flushed down the toilet.
2. Put the soiled linens in a large plastic bag. The bag should prevent moisture from leaking
through. Take the bag to the washing machine.
3. Put the linens in the washing machine. Wash items in a pre-wash cycle first. Then use a
regular wash cycle with detergent. Use the warmest temperature recommended on the
labels.
4. Take off your gloves and wash your hands right away after you handle the soiled clothes
or linens.
5. Dry clothes and linens in a clothes dryer. Use the warmest temperature recommended on
the labels.

10 tips to prevent clothes from fading

1. For the love of all that is washable, look at the tag. Those washing instructions on your
shirt's tag isn't just to make you itchy. They're there to let you know how to wash the
garment so that it will have a long and colorful life. Read the instructions and follow
them.
2. If you absolutely need to wash all of your garments together because you only have
enough quarters for one load, then wash in cold water. Warm water breaks down fibers,
which can cause fading and cold water prevents colors from bleeding. For the best
results, choose a laundry soap that is made to work well with cold water washes.
3. Separate lights from darks. Dark items, no matter what you do, tend to bleed color a little
when you wash them. This bleed can turn a bright orange pair of leggings into a rusty,
faded color, for instance. So, always wash darks with darks, lights with lights and wash
whites separately.
4. Use the right soil settings on your washer. If your clothes aren't very dirty, don't click on
the heavy wash option just to make sure they get extra clean. All you're doing is putting
extra wear and tear on your garment, which will make it fade much faster.
5. Skip the dryer as much as possible. The tumbling of the dryer makes the surface of
garment fibers rough, which in turn makes the colors appear faded, even if they aren't.
6. Skip washing all-together. The more you wash an item, the more faded it becomes. If
you've only worn a garment for a few hours, don't toss it in the washer. Hang it up and let
 it air out. Or never wash them. Levi Strauss CEO Chip Bergh says to never machine wash
jeans and just spot clean them with a sponge.
7. Turn your garments inside out. This protects the outer fibers from wearing down when
you wash. Worn fibers equally fade, and since no one sees the inside of your garments,
it's no big deal if they wear a little more.
8. Add a fabric conditioner to your wash. Think of fabric conditioner like a magical force
field. It lubricates the fibers of the fabric during the wash, so they don't wear down as
easily. Once again, wear equals fading, so anything you can use to prevent friction is a
good thing.
9. Add half a cup of vinegar (118.3 milliliters) to each wash load to prevent fading. As a
bonus, vinegar acts as a natural fabric softener and the smell washes away with the rinse
cycle.
10. While you're adding cooking ingredients to your load, add a half a cup of salt (118.3
milliliters) to a new garment's very first wash to lock in the color and prevent bleeding.

Cleaning Flood-Soiled Clothing and Bedding What To Salvage And How To Clean It

Unfortunately, cleaning your flood-soiled clothing and bedding is not the same as doing
the usual family wash. Items need to be sanitized as you wash them. And your washing machine
may be flood-damaged, making machine washing out of the question until you can get to a
laundromat or friend's house. Nevertheless, you can help prevent mildew damage to clothes and
bedding by sorting and drying items as soon as possible.
 Even if your washing machine was not flooded, avoid using it until you know that the
water is safe enough to drink and that your sewer line works. Before you wash clothes in the
machine, run it through one full cycle. Be sure to use hot water and a disinfectant or sanitizer,
such as chlorine bleach.

CLOTHING

When cleaning flood-damaged clothing:

• Separate wet items as soon as possible to keep clothing colors from running together.
Sort out clothing that should be drycleaned.
• Take clothes and linens outdoors and shake out dried mud or dirt. Hose off extremely
muddy items to avoid clogging your drain when you wash. If you don't have access to
water, simply dry things out.
• If possible, soak badly soiled items overnight in cold water and detergent. Wring out and
air dry if you're unable to machine wash right away.
• Check the labels on clothes and linens, and wash them in detergent and warm water if
possible. Adding chlorine bleach to the wash cycle will remove most mildew and will
sanitize the clothing. Because bleach fades some fabrics and damages others, use other
sanitizers, such as pine oil cleaners, as necessary.
• If an item is still stained after washing, rewash before drying. Drying may make some
stains more difficult to remove.
• Items to be drycleaned should be air-dried and taken to a cleaner as soon as possible.
• Furs and leathers are usually worth the cost of professional cleaning. If you want to clean
leather yourself, wash the mud off and dry the leather slowly. Keep it away from heat or
sunlight while drying.
•

BEDDING

Bedding should be hung out to dry as soon as possible. Once dry, brush off excess soil
and dirt. Pillows, while washable, usually should be discarded if soaked with contaminated
floodwater.
• Sheets and pillow cases. Put sheets and pillow cases through two complete washing
cycles. Use diluted liquid chlorine bleach to help kill germs. Follow your usual drying
procedure.
• Blankets. Put washable blankets (acrylic, cotton) through two complete washing cycles.
Air dry or use an automatic dryer at proper temperature settings. Put wool blankets
through a drycleaning process either at a commercial coin-operated facility or
drycleaning plant. Shrinkage and the difficulty of thorough cleaning make wool blankets
troublesome to wash.
• Quilts and comforters. Wash or dryclean depending on fiber content of the bedding.
Usually, it is best to wash cotton quilts.

MATTRESSES

As a general rule, inexpensive mattresses are not worth the expense of professional
sanitizing and reconditioning. They should be discarded.
• In some cases, a good inner spring mattress may be worth the cost of reconditioning. Get
an estimate from commercial facilities.
• If the outside of the mattress is only slightly damp, brush off surface soil and wipe with a
cloth wrung out of a solution of one cup denatured or rubbing alcohol and one cup water.
 Module 4
Appendix 5.1

Renewal of clothes

Recycle Old Clothing

RESELL

“Recycling” clothing doesn’t necessarily mean only sending it to get shredded up and
turned into something new. Recycling can simply mean passing items on to be used and loved by
someone else.

If you’ve got items in great condition, and want to make a little extra cash, take them to a
local consignment shop or thrift store, or try a trusted online reseller like Poshmark or thredUP.

DONATE

If you want your clothing to live on, but don’t want to mess with reselling, donating your
items to a local homeless shelter or community center in your town is an amazing option to help
others while keeping your clothing out of landfills. First though, make sure there is an actual
need for the clothing items you have before just dropping them off. Donating isn’t an excuse to
just pawn your unwanted clothing onto someone else that also doesn’t want or need them.

Also, make sure to only donate items in good, wearable condition though. Don’t just use
a clothing donation drop off as your “trash can” for your smelly old gym socks with holes in the
toes. Though the practices vary between organizations, they might end up sending unwearable
items to landfills, defeating the whole the purpose of why we’re here in the first place, right?
So what do you do with your items that just can’t even anymore? I recommend two options:

UPCYCLE

Old t-shirts, cotton dresses, jersey lounge pants, etc. make amazing cleaning cloths. If
you don’t want to go out and buy reusable rags or washcloths, make your own!
Simply cut up old clothing into squares or rectangles (or pentagons, or hexagons, or whatever
your shape of choice is) and clean your dirty ass apartment with your new nifty upcycled rags.
Already got rags on rags on rags?

RECYCLE

There are tons of amazing sustainable resources and organizations that will take your too-
far-gone clothing, accessories and textile items, and repurpose them for other uses. Uses like
making home insulation, pillow stuffing, car seat stuffing, and even “new” fabric made from
recycled fibers.
 How to Dispose of Old Clothes

1. Selling Your Old Clothes

A. Choose an online retailer or mobile app to sell your clothes. These days there are so
many ways to sell clothes online. With a quick Google search, you can find a variety of
websites that allow you to post your items for sale. Sites like Craigslist and Facebook
allow you to sell clothes locally. With these sites, you don’t have to worry about shipping
your items. Other sites, like eBay and Poshmark, allow you to post your clothing
worldwide. You can post your clothes online and ship them without worrying about
meeting up with people you don’t know.

• Certain online retailers (Craigslist, ThredUp) will take a percentage of your sales. Keep
that in mind when choosing an online seller.
• When selling online, make sure your clothes are in excellent condition. You don’t want
an unhappy customer to request a refund.
• Include detailed descriptions for your clothing items, such as their size, fabric, and any
defects the clothes may have.
• Post photos of your items that have adequate lighting and a clean background.

B. Throw a garage sale to sell your old clothes. If you want to sell your clothes quickly,
have a garage sale at your home. This is a great way to get cash fast. When selling a large
number of clothes, separate them by category and organize them by color. For example,
put all of the t-shirts together, and group them with similar colors. This will make it
easier for your customers to find what they need.

• Advertise your garage sale by word of mouth and with plenty of signs around your
neighborhood. To attract more customers, advertise in the local newspaper or online.

C. Price your clothing items appropriately. When selling your clothes online or at a
garage sale, you want to make sure your prices are reasonable. Since they’re used and not
brand new, you’re not going to sell them for the same price that you bought them. If the
clothes are fairly new, you may be able to sell them for half of their original cost. If
they’re a few years old, sell them for 25% of the original cost. Anything older than that,
sell for about 10%. Before making your final decision on cost, check online to see what
similar items are going for. Your clothing items may be worth more than you thought.

• Some designer items, especially vintage ones, may be worth more than what you
originally bought them for. Check online to see what other people are selling similar
items for as an idea of pricing points.
• If you’re shipping your clothing, factor in postage costs. Make sure you charge your
buyer for shipping as well, so you’re not losing any money.

D. Make money at a consignment shop. A consignment shop is a store that sells used
items on behalf of the owner. The owner of the consignment shop will decide how much
 your clothing is worth, sell it for you, and then give you a percentage of the sale. Make
sure your clothing is clean and wearable, or the consignment shop won’t take it.

• On average, stores will charge you between 25% and 60% commission.

E. Sell your clothes to a local second-hand store. You may be able to find a local store
that will purchase your old clothing up front. Search Google for second-hand stores in
your area. Depending on the store and type of clothing you are trying to get rid of, the
store will pay you cash. Some stores, like the Buffalo Exchange, pay an average of $15
per clothing item.

• Check out the store’s website or call in advance to learn about their policies and what
type of clothing they accept.

2. Donating Your Clothes

a. Bring your clothes to a non-profit organization for donation. Popular non-profit
organizations, such as Goodwill and the Salvation Army sell clothing to raise
money for charitable causes. Find a non-profit charity near you to donate your
clothing. Most of these organizations accept almost anything, even if they aren’t
in great condition. They will recycle clothes that are worn, torn, or stained.
- Make sure you ask for a tax receipt when you donate to these organizations. You may be
eligible for a tax break, depending on the size of your donation.

b. Take your old clothes to a for-profit company. Some large for-profit companies
will also take your used clothing. Stores like H&M and The North Face will reuse
or recycle old clothing. Some even donate the clothes to smaller non-profit
organizations.[

• Do your research to find out what type of clothing they will take and where you can drop
them off. Also, check to see if you can get store discounts or other rewards for your
donations!

c. Give your used clothing to a family member or friend. You’ve probably heard
of hand-me-downs, especially regarding children’s clothing. Your clothes may
not fit you anymore, or they’re just not your style. If your old clothes are in good
condition, give them to someone you know that’s in need. This will save you the
time and energy of trying to sell them or figuring out which organizations will
take them.
- Giving your old items to a family member or friend will allow you to know exactly who
your clothing is going to and give you confidence that they’ll take good care of them.

d. Bring unwearable items to a clothing and textile recycling facility. If your old
clothing is torn, soiled, or particularly worn, you won’t be able to sell or donate it.
Luckily, you can drop off these unwearable items at a textile recycling location.
These textile collection companies will find ways to repurpose old clothing items
 into usable materials, such as wiping rags or insulation products. Search Google
for a collection location near you.
3. Repurposing Old Clothing
a. Make new outfits and accessories from old clothing. If your old clothing is still
wearable, consider using it to make new clothing or accessories. This is a great
way to refresh your wardrobe. For example, cut denim jeans into a cute pair of
shorts. Or, take an old shirt that doesn’t fit you well and make it into a tube top or
belt.
- Look online for patterns and ideas for reusing old clothing. There are plenty out there.

b. Create home décor items from old t-shirts. Fabric from old t-shirts can be used
to make a variety of household items. If you have a sewing machine, you can use
a cloth to make children’s toys, such as teddy bears or doll clothing. If you have
sentimental graphic t-shirts that you would like to display or fabric colors you’re
particularly fond of, make a quilt.

• Old t-shirts also make great pillowcases.

c. Cut up old clothes into squares for rags or washcloths. Making your own rags
and washcloths from old clothing is a great way to save money. Use a pair of
fabric scissors to cut your unwanted items into squares or rectangles. They can be
whatever size you choose, depending on how you’re going to use them. Consider
cleaning rags that you can use all over your house.