Tyrannosaur Os With Wireframe

Crochet Amigurumi Pattern – No-sew Tyrannosaurus with
Wire Frame
This T-Rex
pattern requires
hardly any
sewing!
The legs, body

and head are all
made as a single
piece. Only the
arms and mouth
require sewing.
* Skill level – Advanced *
This pattern is written in US crochet terms
T-Rex made using this pattern measures about 14 inches (36cm) tall in the
pictured position
© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 1 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

Pattern Information
☼ This pattern is for personal use only.
☼ All rights to this pattern, including all images, are owned by Elena’s Times.
☼ Do not copy, share or resell this pattern.
☼ Do not post this pattern or any part of this pattern on the Internet, do not translate this
pattern to other languages, do not publish this pattern in any form or by any means without
written permission from Elena’s Times.
☼ Unauthorized distribution or duplication is a violation of law.
☼ You may sell your finished items providing they are handmade by yourself, in
limited quantities giving credit to the Designer in your item post or listing, e. g. “Pattern
designed by Elena’s Times”
☼ You must take your own photographs to represent your work.
☼ Follow me on Instagram at yelena.times
☼ Please Tag me if you post photographs of your work on Instagram, as I love
to see examples of my design brought to life by other fiber artists!
☼ You can find all of my other patterns in my Etsy store at: www.etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes
Materials List :
* 3.75mm (F) Crochet hook
* Approximately 410 yards of Medium / Category4 / Worsted Weight / Aran /10 ply yarn
* Approx 35 yards of Medium / Category4 / Worsted Weight /Aran /10 ply yarn in a
contrasting colour (Pink) for the mouth and tongue.
* Polyfil (polyester / fiberfill) stuffing;

* 2 x 8 mm (or larger) glass beads for the eyes or 1 pair of 10mm or larger safety eyes
* 12 gauge (2.00 mm) wire – 12 ft (145 inches)
* White craft felt for the teeth – like 9" x 12" Basic Felt by Creatology, and white glue
* PVA, craft or textile glue (to glue two layers of felt together to create the teeth)
* Needle + Sewing thread in body colour

* (Optional) Glass gems to add weight to the legs and tail of your work to help with balance.
These are sold online as decorative glass gems or as fish tank decoration.

* Strong 12 gauge wire for the frame – I use 2 mm plastic covered gardening wire, but the
strength is more important than the thickness. You may find brown paper covered craft wire in
your local craft store or online. You can add strength to wire by wrapping it in duct or
electrical tape. Using tape also means you can easily tape folded over wire ends to make
sure they don’t poke through your work. If you find working with long lengths of wire too
difficult, or you can’t find rolls of wire near you, you can work with shorter pieces and add
more with tape as you go along, just make sure that you overlap the wire by several inches
where you connect it so that it stays in place and retains its strength.
NOTE : It is not advisable to use wire or weights if the T-Rex is intended as for a child.
You can omit the wire completely and just stuff firmly as you work, but the T-Rex may not
stand on its own without wire.
* (Optional) Pliers to help bend wire.
* Stitch markers – optional – I use thin yarn of contrasting color (attaching it at the last stitch
of each round )
ABBREVIATIONS
Rnd(s) = round(s) Sl = slip stitch Dc = double crochet stitch

Mc = magic circle Sc = single crochet stitch Inc = single crochet increase
Ch = chain stitch St. Sc = standing single crochet Hdc Inc = half double crochet
stitch increase
St(s) = stitch(es) Hdc = half double crochet stitch Dec = single crochet decrease
PATTERN NOTATIONS
Work in a spiral unless otherwise indicated.
Pattern is written in US Crochet terms.
A T-Rex made using this pattern with a 3.75mm (F) hook and Medium yarn ( Category 4)
will measure approximately 14 inches/ 36 cm tall and 27 inches/ 70 cm long
Inc - single crochet increase. Make two single crochet stitches into one stitch.
All Inc stitches are single crochet unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
Hdc Inc - Make two half double crochet stitches into the same stitch.
Dec - single crochet decrease. I prefer the look of the invisible crochet decrease (worked into
just the front loops of the two stitches being joined) but the pattern will not be affected if you
prefer to use a standard decrease stitch. When it appears without a number, Dec stands for
one stitch decrease; a number after this symbol indicates how many times decrease is to be
made; e.g. Dec x 3 means make 3 decrease stitches in a row.

Standing Single Crochet (St.Sc) – used to neatly reattach yarn at a new starting point. With
a slip knot already on your hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop,
yarn over and pull through 2 loops. This creates a stitch with the same top shape as an
ordinary Sc that can easily be worked into in the next round. Tuck the yarn tail inside your
work. A St.Sc counts as 1 Sc for your stitch count.
Stitch Count – The number given in round brackets ( ) at the end of each round.
Shifting the end/beginning of rounds. In several rounds one or more stitches are added
after completing those rounds, but there is no increase in the number of stitches, this is done
to shift the starting point forward before the next round begins.
Examples notations:
Sc5 means make one single crochet stitch into each of the next 5 stitches
{Sc3, Inc} x 2 (10) means make 3 single crochet stitches followed by one increase twice in a
row (i.e. Sc, Sc, Sc, Inc, Sc, Sc, Sc, Inc). The total number of stitches at the end of the row is
10
Inc x 6 means make an increase (i.e 2 Sc stitches) into each of the next 6 stitches, meaning
you would make 12 Sc in total.
Crochet Pattern
Important: please note that some rounds have both increases and decreases – this is
not a mistake!
Leg x 2 Stitch
count
Rnd 1 Ch3, 2 Sc in second from hook Ch, 3 Sc in next (third from hook) (6)
Ch, working round the other side of the starting chain, Sc in next St
(note: this is the same stitch you made your first 2 stitches into)
Rnd 2 Inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3 Inc x 3, Sc3; { Sc in next St (Make a mental note of this St), Ch 9, (45)
see 2 Sc in second from hook St, Sc st in each of next 7 Ch Sts (working
photos back towards the main piece), Sc in same St (that you marked
below mentally a moment ago) of Rnd 2 } x 3, Sc3

Make 2 Sc in second from hook Ch (the red arrows in the left photo), the blue arrow point at
stitch you made mental note of. The yellow arrow in both photos point where to make next
stitch.
Round 3 completed:
Rnd 4 {Sc1, Inc} x 3, Sc4, { Sc in each of next 8 ‘free’ loops (i. e. the (74)
loops you didn’t work into in the previous round) of Chain Sts,
Sc10, Inc } x 2, Sc in each of next 8 ‘free’ loops of Ch Sts, Sc13

On the left – the red arrows point at the unused loops of 8 Ch , the yellow arrow points at the
first Sc that follows Chain stitches; the blue arrow points where to crochet stitch increase.
On the right – continuing Round 4, the green arrow shows where you crochet stitch increase,
the red arrow points where to crochet the next stitch after Inc (it is the first of the 8 chain
loops).
Rnd 5 Sc2, Inc, Sc5, Inc, Sc12, Dec, Sc18, Dec, Sc18, Dec, Sc11 (73)
the arrows point at the stitches to crochet

together (stitch decrease):
Rnd 6 Sc23, Dec, Sc17, Dec, Sc17, Dec, Sc10 (70)
Rnd 7 Sc23, Dec, Sc16, Dec, Sc16, Dec, Sc9 (67)
Rnd 8 Sc3, Dec, Sc3, Dec, Sc10, Dec x 3, Sc11, Dec x 3, Sc11, Dec x 3, Sc7 (56)

3 pairs of stitches marked for stitch
decrease in Round 8:
Rnd 9 Sc15, skip next 9 Sts, Sc5, skip next 9 Sts, Sc5, skip next 9 Sts, Sc4 (29)
On the left – shaping 3 toes: skipping 9 stitches and making 5 Sc in-between (the red arrows
point where to crochet these 5 stitches). On the right – Round 9 is completed. In the next
Round (Rnd 10) work only into the stitches made in Rnd 9, the toe stitches stay open.
Rnd 10 Sc6, Inc, Sc6, Dec x 2, Sc1, Dec x 2, Sc1, Dec x 2, Sc2 (24)
Rnd 11 Sc14, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc2 (21), Sc6 (to move starting point (21)
for the next round)

Add the wire to the feet at this point. Cut 2 sections of wire 26-27 inches (68-70 cm) each.
Bend wire to fit the toes but shorter than the toes. Or you can make a circle large enough to
fill the base of the foot and do not wire the toes. But I do feel that the T-Rex will stand better
with the toes wired.
Sneak peek:
This is how a finished leg will look, if you
start with 26-27 inches of wire.
You will add more wire later; then the wire

from one leg will eventually go up towards
the head and the wire from the second leg
will go down to the tip of the tail, making
both posable. When adding more wire,
make sure to overlap the join by several
inches and hold in place securely with tape
so it doesn’t come loose.
Stuff the leg gradually, but do not stuff the

toes (or stuff them very lightly): later you will
add glass gems and more stuffing before
sewing them shut.

Rounds 12 -15 are different for Left and Right leg:
Rnd 12 Inc, Sc6, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc4, Ch3, Sc into the same (23)
(Left leg) stitch that your last Sc was made into (red arrow in the photo below),
Sc2
The 3 chain stitches shape a rudimentary toe

in the next round: in Rnd 13 you can either
work Sc into each of the 3 chain stitches
individually or just work into the chain space.
It will work either way, but remember to do the
same on both legs!
Rnd 13 (Left leg) Sc5, Dec, Sc6, Dec, Sc8 (21)
Rnd 14 (Left leg) Sc1, Inc, Sc5, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc3, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc1 (18)
Rnd 15 (Left leg) Sc9, Dec, Sc2, Dec x 2, Sc1 (15)
*******
Rnd 12 (Right leg) Inc, Sc3, Ch3, Sc in same St of Rnd 12, Sc3, Dec, Sc1, (23)
Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc6
Rnd 13 (Right leg) Sc9, Dec, Sc6, Dec, Sc4 (21)
Rnd 14 (Right leg) Sc1, Inc, Sc2, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc2, Dec, Sc1, Dec, Sc5 (18)
Rnd 15 (Right leg) Sc5, Dec x 2, Sc2, Dec, Sc5 (15)
The following rounds are same for both legs:

Rnd 16 Sc15 (15)
Rnd 17 Sc1, Inc x 4, Sc10 (19)
Rnd 18 Sc19 (19)
Rnd 19 Sc1, Dec x 4, Sc10 (15)
Rnd 20 { Sc1, Dec } x 2, Sc4, Inc, Sc4 (14)
Rnd 21 Sc14 (14)
Rnd 22 Sc2, Inc, Sc6, Inc, Sc4 (16)
Rnd 23 { Sc7, Inc } x 2 (18)
Rnd 25-26 Sc20 (20)
Rnd 27 Sc2, Sl st 7 (in front loops only), Sc3, Dec x 3, Sc2 (17)
Sc2, Sl st3 (in front loops only), skip 1 St, Sl st3 (in front loops only) ,
Rnd 28 (19)
Sc3, Inc x 3, Sc2
Rnd 29-30 Sc3, Sl st6 (in front loops only), Sc10 (19)
Rnd 31 Sc2, { Inc, Sc1 } x 3, Inc, Sc3, Dec x 3, Sc1 (20)
Rnd 32 Sc16, { Inc, Sc1 } x 2 (22)
Rnd 33 { Sc5, Inc } x 2, Sc10 (24)
Rnd 34 { Sc4, Inc } x 3, Sc9 (27)
Rnd 35 Sc7, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc11 (30)
Sc10, Inc, Sc4, Inc, Sc14 (32), (you should now be back at your
starting point), Sc10 (to move the end of the round). Cut your yarn
Rnd 36 (32)
leaving approx 4 inch yarn tail, pull yarn end up through the last stitch
you make instead of fastening off

Body Stitch
count
Rnd 1 Ch7, starting from second from hook stitch, crochet along the chain: (14)
Inc, Sc4, Sc3 in last ch st; turn the work counterclockwise and
continue on the opposite side of the chain: Sc5
The blue arrow points where to crochet the last stitch of Rnd 1. Red arrow in the right photo
shows where to crochet the first stitch of Rnd 2:
Rnd 2 Inc x 2, Sc4, Inc x 3, Sc4, Inc

(20)
Rnd 3 {Sc1, Inc} x 2, Sc4, {Sc1, Inc} x 3, Sc5, Inc

(26)
Rnd 4 {Hdc2, Hdc Inc} x 2, Hdc1, Sc3, {Sc2, Inc} x 3, Sc5, Hdc1 , Hdc Inc
(32)
Rnd 5 {Sc3, Inc} x 2, Sc4, {Sc3, Inc} x 3, Sc6, Inc, Sc1 (38)
Rnd 6 Hdc3, Hdc Inc, Hdc4, Hdc Inc, Hdc4, {Sc4, Inc} x 3, Sc4, Hdc4, (44)
Hdc Inc, Hdc1
Rnd 7 {Sc4, Inc} x 2, Sc7, {Sc4, Inc} x 3, Sc11, Inc (50)
Rnd 8 {Hdc5, Hdc Inc} x 2, Hdc5, Sc2, {Sc5, Inc} x 3, Sc6, Hdc5, Hdc Inc,
Hdc1 (56)
Rnd 9 Sc6, Inc, Sc5, Inc, Sc10, {Sc5, Inc} x 3, Sc14, Inc
(62)

Rnd 10 Sc3, Inc, Sc6, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc15, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc6, Inc, Sc3, Inc, (70)
Sc15, Inc (70), Sc2 – to move starting point, this does not change
the number of stitches in the round
Rnd 11 – Sc6, Inc, Sc7, continue on the Left Leg only: starting from the 3-rd (92)
attaching stitch (counting from the last stitch of the Left Leg) Sc21 on the Left
legs: Leg only, skip 11 Sts of the body, then continue on the Body only:
Sc16, Inc, Sc16; then continue on the Right Leg only (starting from
see
the 18-th stitch counting from the last stitch): Sc21, skip 11 Sts of the
photos
body and crochet Sc stitch in the next body stitch
The arrow points at the 3-rd stitch, where you begin to attach Left Leg; in the photo on the
right – several stitches are made on the Left Leg only:
After making 21 sts on the Left Leg only, skip 11 sts of the body and continue on the body
only (photo on the left). In the photo on the right – the arrow points at the 18-th stitch, where
to start attaching the Right Leg:

On the left – first three stitches made on the Right Leg only. Continue to work around the leg
only; when you come to the stitch with yarn end, align the yarn with the leg’s edge and
crochet next stitch over this thread:
After making 21 Sc around the leg, skip 11 Sts

of the body and crochet Sc stitch in the next
body stitch (the red arrow points at this stitch):
Rnd 12 Inc, Sc12, Inc, Sc39, Inc, Sc38 (95)
In round 12 you will work around the

outer edge of the body and legs.
You can add wire at this point – add
27 inches of wire to each leg (make
sure the wires overlap by 3-4 inches
and tape them together with electrical
tape).

Bend the wires as shown: the wire from
one leg goes toward the neck and head;
the wire from the other leg goes to the tail.
You will need to attach another piece of
wire later (to the wire that points toward the
tail, the black arrows show where to attach
another piece of wire), when the back is
almost finished.
Rnd 13 – Sc49, Inc, Sc12, Inc, Sc30 (= 95 sts, that is 2 stitches short (97 Sts,
making of the point where the end of round should be normally), ch21, including 21
opening for skip next 21 sts, Sc5, place stitch marker on the last stitch, Chain Sts)
tail this is the new ending point of Round 13.
The red arrow shows

where the end of Round
13 would be normally; the
green arrow points at the
new end of Round 13.
There are 97 sts in this
round , 21 of them are
Chain sts)
Rnd 14 Sc33, Inc, Sc63 (Sc into each individual Ch St of the previous round) (98)

Connect open stitches between belly and legs. Align the open stitches
and crochet 13 Sc stitches through both belly and leg: there are 11 pairs
of stitches, but we are adding 1 st on each side, to avoid holes near the
first and last stitch: start with the pair of stitches to the right of the first
open stitch (the green arrows point at that pair) and finish with the pair to
the left of the last open pair:
Rnd 15 Sc71, Dec, Sc20, Dec, Sc3 (96)
Rnd 16 Sc33, Inc, Sc62 (97)
Rnd 17 Sc23, Inc, Sc22, Inc, Sc26, Dec, Sc16, Dec, Sc4 (97)
Rnd 18 separating an opening for the neck : (77)

Sc19, Ch16, skip 34 sts, Sc22, Dec, Sc14, Dec, Sc4
We are now only following the stitches in the previous round and working (75)
Sc into the chain to begin to close up the top part of the body before we
Rnd 19
add the neck and tail: Sc56, Dec, Sc15, Dec, Sc2
Rnd 20 Sc18, Dec, Sc15, Dec, Sc19, Dec, Sc13, Dec, Sc2 (71)
Rnd 22 Sc10, Dec x 2, Sc11, Dec, Sc11, Dec x 2, Sc10, Dec, Sc10,Dec, Sc1 (60)
Rnd 23 {Sc1, Dec} x 4, Sc5, Dec, Sc9, Dec, Sc4, {Sc1, Dec} x 4, Sc6, Dec, Sc6 (49)

Rnd 24 Sc18, Dec, Sc29 (48)
Cut another piece of wire – 26-27 inches long – and tape it to the end of the wire that points
toward the tail (overlapping by about 3 inches):
Rnd 25 {Sc6, Dec} x 6 (42)
Rnd 26 {Sc5, Dec} x 6 (36)
Rnd 27 {Sc4, Dec} x 6 (30)
Rnd 28 {Sc3, Dec} x 6 (24)
Rnd 29 {Sc2, Dec} x 6 (18)
Rnd 30 {Sc1, Dec} x 6 (12)
Rnd 31 Dec x 6, fasten off (6)
Add some stuffing; you will continue to stuff later, when some of the tail and the neck
are made, otherwise it would be difficult to stuff the piece with 2 openings on opposite
ends

Tail Stitch count
Rnd 1 St.sc in 11-th St of the skipped stitches in Rnd 12, Sc10, Sc in next St of
Rnd 12, turn the work counter-clockwise and work into Chain Stitches: Inc,
Sc19 (into chain stitches), Inc, turn work counter clockwise, Sc1 into the stitch
space before the first Chain stitch (effectively the corner space of the hole we
are closing, see photos), Sc10 (into skipped stitches from Rnd 12). (46)
Make St. sc in 11-th of the skipped Sts of Rnd 12 (photo on the left, the red arrow shows the
first of the skipped Sts); Sc10 (photo on the right), the red arrow points at the hole where to
make Sc in the next St of Rnd 12, the blue arrow shows where to make Inc (after turning
counter-clockwise)
After turning the work counter-clockwise, Inc in first of the Chain stitches (the blue arrow I
the left photo) and make Sc stitches into the following Chain (the “free” loops); Inc in the last
Ch , turn counter-clockwise again and Sc into the space before the first of the skipped
stitches (the red arrow in the right photo):

The round is completed; the arrow points at the
first stitch of this round, where you crochet the
first stitch of the next round
Rnd 2 Sc in each st around (46)
Rnd 4-5 Sc in each st around (44)
Rnd 7-8 Sc around Add more stuffing to the body; stuff the tail (42)
gradually
Rnd 18 Sc around. Start adding glass gems along with stuffing (32)

Rnd 23 Sc in each st around (26), Sc8 – to move starting point (26)
Rnd 44 Sc3, Dec, Sc3, Dec (8)
Rnd 48-50 Sc around. Fasten off. Bend the wire back on itself to (6)
the length of the tail and tape to cover the end. Use the
yarn tail to sew the end shut.

Neck and back of head Stitch count
Rnd 1 Using a St.Sc attach yarn at the 8-th stitch of the 16 Chain (54)
stitches (counting right to left; you will be working in the opposite
direction compared to previous rounds) of the back of the neck
(the blue arrow), Sc7 (into the chain stitches), Inc (into the last
Chain stitch, green arrow), turn the work counter-clockwise and
make 1Sc into the space at the edge of the hole (the last stitch
you made before skipping 34 in the earlier round, the red arrow),
Sc34, make 1Sc into the stitch space at the side of the gap we are
closing (see photo) turn the work counter-clockwise again, Inc in
the first skipped Ch St, Sc6
Rnd 3 Sc9, Dec, Sc5, { Dec, Sc2} x 6, Sc3, Dec, Sc7 (44)
Rnd 5 Sc1, Dec, Sc6, Dec, Sc9, { Inc, Sc1} x 4, Sc8, Dec, Sc6 (45)

Rnd 8 Sc7, Dec, Sc10, Inc, Sc5, Inc, Sc10, Dec, Sc3 (41)
Rnd 14 Sc3, Inc, Sc7, Dec, Sc18, Dec , Sc4 (36)
Rnd 15 Sc15, Sl st 16 (into front loops only), Sc5 (36)
Rnd 18 Sc16, ch28, skip 14 sts, Sc6 (22Sc + 28

Ch = 50 )
Rnd 19 Sc st in each of next 16 Sc sts, Sc st in each of next 28 ch sts, Sc (50)

st in each of next 6 Sc sts
Rnd 20 Sc13, Dec x 3, Sc22, Dec x 3, Sc3 (44)
Rnd 22 Sc in each st around (42), Sc7, to move your starting point (42)
forward
Rnd 23 {Sc5, Dec} x 6 (36)
Rnd 25 {Sc4, Dec} x 6 (30)
Rnd 27 {Sc3, Dec} x 6 (24)
Rnd 28 {Sc2, Dec} x 6 (18)
Rnd 30 {Sc1, Dec} x 6 (12)
Rnd 31 Dec x 6 (6) Use yarn end to close remaining gap.

On the left – the back of the head when finished. On the right – a sneak peek of the upper
and lower parts of the head; work each part around wires
Upper part of head stitch count
Rnd 1: Holding the work with the back of the neck facing you,
start in the 4th unused chain loop (from Rnd 18 of the Neck and back of head
section above). See photos below. The red arrows point at the stitches to skip.
The green arrow shows where to start the lower part of the head.
St.Sc (in 4th loop), Sc4, Inc x 2 , Sc8, Inc x 2, Sc5, Ch22 (48)

Start this round in the St.sc you made in the previous round and work
only into the stitches made in Round 1. This new shape will form the
upper jaw outline. Work into each of the chain stitches from previous
Rnd 2 row individually: (56)
Inc, Sc5, Inc x 3, Sc8, Inc x 3, Sc5, Inc, Sc22
Inc, Sc8, Inc, Sc1, Inc, Sc11, Inc, Sc1, Inc, Sc8, Inc, Sc6, Inc, Sc7,
Rnd 3 (64)
Inc, Sc6
Rnd 4 Sc, inc, Sc38, Inc, Sc23 (66)
Rnds 5-7 (3 rounds of) Sc in each stitch around (66)
Rnd 9 Sc in each stitch around (62)
Rnd 19 {Sc6, Dec} x 6 (42)
Rnd 20 {Sc5, Dec} x 6 (36)
Rnd 21 {Sc4, Dec} x 6 (30)
Rnd 22 {Sc3, Dec} x 6 (24)
{Sc1, Dec} x 12 (you will go past your starting point);
Bend the wire (along the middle of back/neck/top of head to give your
Rnd 23 T-Rex the desired shape, cut the excess wire if necessary, tape the tip (12)
with electrical tape
Rnd 24 Dec x 6 Fasten off (6)

Fold the work to form the jaw’s edge – along the increases and decreases.
Cut 2 sections of wire 14 inches (35 cm) each, insert one wire into the upper part of the head,
along the fold (edge of the jaw), push the wire close to the fold all around, and secure in place
by making a row of simple stitches, close to the edges, with body color thread, as shown
below.
Note that there are no folds or ridges on the inside of the piece.
Eyes
Make 2 round pads : Mc, Sc6, cut yarn leaving long end for sewing.
Sew glass bead/eye in the middle of the crocheted disk.
Pinch and create an eye socket space under the brow line (see photos). Sew on the circle if
you are using a glass bead or insert safety eyes
If you are using safety eyes, insert through the outer layer of the upper head only.
Safety eyes of any size between 8–20mm work well, depending on the type of expression you
wish to create.
If you wish, you can add additional defined shape to your finished head by using a needle and
body color yarn to soft sculpt the head by creating nostrils or ridges along the brow.

Lower part of head Stitch count
Hold the work with the back of the head pointing down, the upper half of the head is on the
right, the open neck stitches are on the left (see photo 1 below).
Rnd 1: St.sc in same St where you worked last Sc of Rnd 1 of Upper head,
Sc1, Inc, Sc18, Inc, Sc2, Ch26 (52)
Attach yarn with St.sc in Rnd 18 of the

Neck and back of head section above, in
the same Ch St where you worked last Sc
of the upper head (red arrow in photo 1),
Sc1, Inc, Sc1, continue on the stitches of
Rnd 17 of the neck: Sc in the space before
the first skipped st of Rnd 17 (red arrow
in photo 2), Sc14 (in front loops only), Sc
in the space after the last of the skipped
stitches, Sc1, Inc, Sc2 (the second of
these Sc stitches – into the same St where
you started the upper head, red arrow in
photo 3), Ch26 (52)
Rnd 2 Start this round in the St.sc you made in the previous round and (52)
work only into the stitches made in round 1. This new shape will
form the lower jaw outline. Work into each of the chain stitches
from previous row individually:
Sc st in each st around

Rnd 4 Dec, Sc24, Dec, Sc22 (48)
Rnd 5 Sc st in each st around (48)
Rnd 6 Dec, Sc22, Dec, Sc22 (46)
Rnd 18-22 Sc st in each st around (28)
Next repeat {Sc1, Dec} until you have 12 sts,
Bend the wire (middle of the belly and lower neck and jaw) to give
your T-Rex the desired shape, cut the excess of the wire if
necessary, tape the tip with electrical tape,
then Dec x 6, cut yarn, fasten off
Fold to form the jaw’s edge – where the increases and decreases are. Insert and secure the
wire for the lower jaw as you did for the upper jaw.
Secure the wire along the back of the neck and top of the head with several stitches, as
shown on page 22 with the red arrows.
Stuff the back of the head; do not stuff the jaws

Arm x 2 Stitch count
Finger 1
Rnd 1 Mc, Sc5 (5)
Rnds 2-4 Sc5 (5), cut yarn leaving a tail about 4-5 inches, pull the end
out of the loop (5)
Finger 2 – Repeat Rounds 1-4, do not cut yarn, proceed to connect fingers:
Rnd 5 Sc3 (on Finger 2); continue on Finger 1: Sc in sts number 2, 3 (6)
and 4; skip stitch 5, skip next two stitches of Finger 2, Sc1 into the
3rd stitch (you should have 6 stitches in this round)
after making Sc st in each of next 3
sts of the second finger, crochet
single crochet stitch in stitches #2, 3
and 4 of Finger 1, skip 2 first
stitches of Finger 2 and crochet next
stitch in the 3-rd stitch (the blue
arrow points at it). You have 6
stitches in this round. Use yarn end
of Finger 1 to connect the 2 pairs of
open stitches between the fingers.
Rnd 6-8 Sc in each st around (6), use the yarn end from the first finger to (6)
close the hole between the fingers
Rnd 9 Sc3, Inc x 2, Sc1 (8)
Rnd 10 Inc x 2, Sc1, Dec x 2, Sc1 (8)
Rnd 11 Sc1, Inc x 2, Sc1, Dec x 2 (8)
Rnd 12 Sc3, Inc, Sc4 (9)
Rnd 13 Sc4, Inc, Sc3, Inc (11)
Rnd 14 Sc11 (11), Sc2 to move the end of round, cut yarn leaving long (11)
end for attaching to the body.

Cut 4 pieces of wire, 6 inches (15 cm) each. Bend each wire back on itself about ¼ inch (1
cm), tape over with electrical tape and insert into the arms (2 in each, one in each finger),
bent ends going into the fingers. Stuff the wide parts of the arms lightly.
Place the arms anywhere you think looks correct between rounds 11 and 16 of the lower body
with 10 stitch spaces between the arms.
Push the wire into the body (covering the ends of the wire in tape may help to slide them in)
and sew securely in place using yarn ends.
Inside mouth ( Pink Colour yarn) Stitch count
Rnd 1 Mc, sc6 (6)
Rnd 2 Inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3 {Sc1, Inc} x 6 (18)
Rnd 4 {Sc2, Inc} x 6 (24)
Rnd 5 {Sc3, Inc} x 6 (30)
Rnd 7 {Sc4, Inc} x 6 (36)

Rnd 8 {Sc5, Inc} x 6 (42)
Rnd 9-10 Sc around (42)
At this point you will stop working in a spiral and continue in rows (upper part of the mouth),
turning the work as directed at the end of each row. Note that the chain 1 at the end of the
round is a turning chain and this should not be worked into and does not count towards the
stitch count.
Row 1 Sc20, Ch1, turn (20)
Row 2 skip first st, Sc17, skip next st, Sc1, Ch1, turn (18)
Row 7-9 Sc14, Ch1, turn (14)
Row 13 skip first st, Sc1, skip next st, Sc3, skip next st, Sc1, skip next (6)
st, Sc1, Ch1, turn
Row 14 skip first st, Sc1, skip next st, Sc1, skip next st, Sc1, finish (3)
with Slip stitch in next St, cut yarn

Lower part of mouth
Row 1 Using St.sc attach Pink yarn at 5-th stitch counting from the (14)
last stitch of Row 1 of the upper part (the red arrow),
Sc13,Ch1, turn
The blue arrow on the left points at slip stitch that is made to
complete the top part of the mouth.

Row 5-7 Sc10, Ch1, turn (10)
Row 13 skip first st, Sc1, skip next st, Sc1, skip next st, Sc1 (3), do not
cut yarn, continue to crochet Sc sts around the whole mouth,
crochet Hdc stitches in the corners (where top and bottom
parts of the mouth start and end, see photo below); cut yarn

Crochet Hdc stitches in the corners,
where the upper and lower parts of the
mouth begin and end, 4 Hdc sts
altogether.
The red arrow points at one half double
crochet stitch already made, and the blue
arrow points at the next corner for the
next Hdc stitch
Tongue ( Pink Colour yarn)

Rnd 1 Ch2, in second from hook stitch crochet 5 Sc sts (5)
Rnd 2 Sc4, Inc (6)
Rnd 3 {Sc2, Inc } x 2 (8)
Rnd 4 {Sc3, Inc } x 2 (10)
Rnd 5 {Sc4, Inc } x 2 (12)
Rnd 7 {Sc5, Inc } x 2 (14)
Rnd 9 {Sc6, Inc } x 2 (16)
Rnd 11 {Sc7, Inc } x 2 (18)
Rnd 14 {Sc8, Inc } x 2 (20)

Cut yarn leaving long end, stuff the tongue just a little, fold flat at the last round and sew the
edges together. Sew the tongue to the middle of the round part of the mouth.
On the left – this is the shape of the mouth before it is sewn into the head; bring all yarn ends
to the outside, as shown. To sew the tongue, turn the mouth inside out, as show on the right:
And turn the mouth back to look like in the photo above,
left.
Teeth
Cut 2 strips of felt, 8 inches (20 cm) by 2

inches (5 cm) each.
Fold in half and glue each strip
lengthwise and let dry.
For each strip, mark the middle and cut

out triangular pieces on the fold side,
starting from the middle, first smaller, then
making teeth bigger, leaving 1-2 mm of
felt for the teeth points (so the 2 layers of
felt do not separate).

Trim the non-spiky edge , making the
strips narrower in the middle and at the
ends, as shown in pictures below.
Pin the teeth inside the jaws and sew along the edges with simple stitches.
Insert the mouth into the head, align and pin and then sew in place with simple stitches along
the edges of the jaws.

And now, for the final step – return to the feet: add more stuffing to the legs if needed, through
the open toes. To stuff the toes, first put glass gems into toes and then stuffing to cover the
gems.
Connect open stitches on the feet – you can do it with crochet hook as shown or carpet
needle. Tuck the yarn ends into the feet.
This T-Rex is
14 inches (36cm) tall
in the pictured
position –
it is made with
crochet hook F/5 –
3.75mm
and
Impeccable Yarn by
Loops & Threads,
Tweed – 2 skeins
Weight: Medium (4)

Color: Camo
Contents: 97% acrylic,
3% other fibers
Skein Weight: 3 oz. / 85 g
Yardage: 190 yd. / 174 m

☼ Follow me on Instagram at yelena.times
☼ Please Tag me if you post photographs of your work on Instagram, as I love
to see examples of my design brought to life by other fiber artists!
☼ You can find all of my other patterns in my Etsy store at: www.etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

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Crochet Amigurumi Pattern – No-sew Tyrannosaurus with

The legs, body

* Skill level – Advanced *

This pattern is written in US crochet terms

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 1 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

* Polyfil (polyester / fiberfill) stuffing;

* Needle + Sewing thread in body colour

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 2 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

* (Optional) Pliers to help bend wire.

Rnd(s) = round(s) Sl = slip stitch Dc = double crochet stitch

Work in a spiral unless otherwise indicated.

Pattern is written in US Crochet terms.

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 3 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

Rnd 2 Inc x 6 (12)

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 4 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 5 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

the arrows point at the stitches to crochet

Rnd 6 Sc23, Dec, Sc17, Dec, Sc17, Dec, Sc10 (70)

Rnd 7 Sc23, Dec, Sc16, Dec, Sc16, Dec, Sc9 (67)

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 6 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 7 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

You will add more wire later; then the wire

Stuff the leg gradually, but do not stuff the

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 8 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

The 3 chain stitches shape a rudimentary toe

Rnd 13 (Left leg) Sc5, Dec, Sc6, Dec, Sc8 (21)

Rnd 15 (Left leg) Sc9, Dec, Sc2, Dec x 2, Sc1 (15)

Rnd 13 (Right leg) Sc9, Dec, Sc6, Dec, Sc4 (21)

Rnd 15 (Right leg) Sc5, Dec x 2, Sc2, Dec, Sc5 (15)

The following rounds are same for both legs:

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 9 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

Rnd 17 Sc1, Inc x 4, Sc10 (19)

Rnd 18 Sc19 (19)

Rnd 19 Sc1, Dec x 4, Sc10 (15)

Rnd 20 { Sc1, Dec } x 2, Sc4, Inc, Sc4 (14)

Rnd 21 Sc14 (14)

Rnd 22 Sc2, Inc, Sc6, Inc, Sc4 (16)

Rnd 23 { Sc7, Inc } x 2 (18)

Rnd 24 Sc3, Inc, Sc8, Inc, Sc5 (20)

Rnd 25-26 Sc20 (20)

Rnd 31 Sc2, { Inc, Sc1 } x 3, Inc, Sc3, Dec x 3, Sc1 (20)

Rnd 32 Sc16, { Inc, Sc1 } x 2 (22)

Rnd 33 { Sc5, Inc } x 2, Sc10 (24)

Rnd 34 { Sc4, Inc } x 3, Sc9 (27)

Rnd 35 Sc7, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc3, Inc, Sc11 (30)

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 10 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

Rnd 2 Inc x 2, Sc4, Inc x 3, Sc4, Inc

Rnd 3 {Sc1, Inc} x 2, Sc4, {Sc1, Inc} x 3, Sc5, Inc

Rnd 7 {Sc4, Inc} x 2, Sc7, {Sc4, Inc} x 3, Sc11, Inc (50)

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 11 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 12 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

After making 21 Sc around the leg, skip 11 Sts

Rnd 12 Inc, Sc12, Inc, Sc39, Inc, Sc38 (95)

In round 12 you will work around the

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 13 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

The red arrow shows

© 2021 Elena's Times – Amigurumi No-sew Tyrannosaurus – page 14 etsy.com/shop/ElenasTimes

Rnd 15 Sc71, Dec, Sc20, Dec, Sc3 (96)