Woolmark Test Method

Test Method – TWC-TM31

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF WOOL TEXTILES

TO LAUNDERING

Version 2009
TWC-TM31
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY OF WOOL TEXTILES
TO LAUNDERING

1 SCOPE

This test method is applicable to all washable (hand wash, machine wash or
Total Easy care [TEC]) wool textile products. The test may be used to
determine the relaxation dimensional change, felting shrinkage and total
dimensional change of washable wool textile products. Products at
progressive points in the processing chain require different testing
procedures. Different assessment procedures shall also be applied to these
products as product construction affects performance.

2 PRINCIPLE

The test method is based on the 5A and 7A wash cycle programmes

described in International Standards Organisation standard ISO 6330: 1984,
as appropriate, with the load reduced to 1kg for both programmes. The
contribution of the drying method to dimensional change and appearance is
also assessed.
Note: Following established standard/procedure practice “shall”
denotes the procedure is compulsory and “should” denotes the
procedure is advisable but there may be alternatives.

3 DEFINITIONS

For the purposes of this test method, the following definitions apply:-

3.1 Dimensional Change

A change in length or width of a test specimen in fabric form.

3.2 Extension and/or Shrinkage

The increase in length and/or width induced by washing is expressed
as expansion[EX]. The reduction in length and/or width induced by
washing is expressed as a shrinkage[SH].

3.3 Relaxation Dimensional Change (Shrinkage/Extension)

The dimensional change caused by the release of strains introduced
during manufacture, assessed after the initial 7A wash cycle.
Relaxation dimensional change is an artefact of the manufacturing
process so is only reported and/or specified on finished fabrics and
garments.

3.4 Felting Dimensional Change

Irreversible dimensional change (normally shrinkage) caused by
progressive entanglement of the wool fibres induced by heat and
agitation in an aqueous solution.

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 3.5 Total dimensional change
The sum of dimensional change in relaxation and felting.

3.6 Cuff Dimensional Change

The dimensional change measured along a fold in the width or length
direction.

3.7 Differential Cuff Edge Shrinkage

The difference between the dimensional change at the cuff and the
felting dimensional change in either length or width direction.

3.8 Hand Washable

A wool textile material that can be satisfactorily hand washed for the
required wash/wear life.

3.9 Machine Washable

A wool textile material that can be satisfactorily washed in a domestic
washing machine (wool wash cycle) for the required wash/wear life.

3.10 Total Easy Care

A wool textile material that can be satisfactorily washed in a domestic
washing machine (wool wash cycle) and tumble dried in a domestic
drier for the required wash/dry/wear life.

3.11 Spot Felting

Areas of felted wool in an otherwise unfelted product. This may be
caused by uneven treatment or contamination of treated product with
untreated product.

3.12 Facing-up
Common term for a fuzzy appearance to the fabric. Facing up is
assessed by comparing the product with reference knitted standards.

3.13 Care Claim

A claim made by a manufacturer of a garment/product that relates to its
after-sales care eg Hand Wash only, Machine Washable, Tumble dry.

3.14 Fabric Smoothness

The visual impression of planarity of a specimen quantified by
comparison with a set of Woolmark Company photographic reference
standards (SM65).

3.15 Seam Smoothness

The visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified by
comparison with a set of AATCC photographic reference standards.

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 3.16 Crease Retention
The visual impression of an inserted crease quantified by comparison
with a set of Woolmark Company photographic reference standards.
(SM71).

4 APPARATUS

4.1 Wascator
Model FOM 71 Special or Microprocessor Laboratory washing machine
(Electrolux) with wash cycles programmed and according to ISO 6330:
1984.

4.2 Polyester Ballast, SM37

Pieces consisting of two layers of knitted polyester fabric, each 300 x
300 ± 30 mm square and of a total mass 35 ± 3 g, sewn together at the
edges.

4.3 ECE Detergent A

ECE detergent A, without optical brightening agent (OBA), enzyme or
sodium perborate.

4.4 Metal linear scale

Accurately graduated in 1 mm divisions and of suitable length to
measure tested specimens in one action, without moving the scale to a
new position.

4.5 Tumble drier

Tumble drier shall comply with the specification below:
Type 1 (European type)
Drum Volume 80-120 litres
Drum Diameter Minimum 55 cm
Cool Down Period Minimum 5 minutes

Type 2 (USA type)

Drum Volume 150 – 220 litres
Drum Diameter Minimum 65 cm
Cool Down Period Minimum 5 minutes

4.6 Oven
A fan forced drying oven capable of maintaining 50 ± 5°C

4.7 Measuring tray

Approximately 500 x 500 x 40 mm depth suitable for wet measurement.
Note: A plugged drain and attached hose aids emptying the tray.

4.8 Apparatus for converting intermediate products into test

specimens.
4.8.1 Spinning Equipment
A pin drafter suitable for producing a 2.8 ktex sliver.

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 A spinning frame and doubling unit capable of producing a yarn
from that sliver to the appropriate count (see Appendix A2).

4.8.2 Knitting Machine

A knitting machine capable of producing a plain knit fabric of
the appropriate cover factor (see Appendix A2).

4.8.3 Loop Length Measuring Device

Suitable apparatus is a Crimp Tester.

4.9 Domestic Steam Iron

Weight range between 1 and 2 kg, with multiple heat and steam
settings.

4.10 Reference Knitted Fabric Standards for Total Easy Care Knitwear
(SM64)
Graded knitted standards used to evaluate the surface appearance
change of knitwear after washing and tumble drying

4.11 Reference Woven Fabric Smoothness Photographs for Machine

Washable, Flat Hang or Tumble Dry Woven Fabrics (SM65)
Graded photographic standards for evaluating woven fabric
smoothness after washing and drying. There are two sets each of 5
photographs. One set of photographs for plain-weave fabric and one
for twill-weave fabric.

4.12 Reference Photographs for Seam Smoothness

AATCC seam smoothness standards photographs, prepared for rating
single and double needled seams. (See AATCC - 88B).

4.13 Reference Photographs for Crease Retention, (SM71)

Woolmark Company photographic crease retention photographs, set of
3 (plus reference fabrics for fabric weight evaluation).

4.14 Viewing Area, lighting conditions are as specified in AATCC 88B and
88C.

4.15 Total Water Hardness

A measurement kit with a precision dropper (Available from laboratory
suppliers).

5. STANDARD ATMOSPHERE

The standard atmosphere for conditioning and testing is:-

Relative Humidity: 65 ± 3% Temperature: 20 ± 2°

The standardised atmosphere for testing must accord with the descriptions in
IWTO-52. Specimens shall be conditioned from the dry side (specimens

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 having a regain less than 10% but not oven dry) as described in IWTO-52.
Each testing laboratory shall determine the time required to pre-condition
specimens prior to conditioning in the standard atmosphere.

6. PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMEN

Sampling procedures directly affect the confidence levels of all results so that
Woolmark sampling procedures shall be followed for each product. Precision
figures for the test are not available but will be included after round trials are
conducted. Tolerances are based on best industry knowledge.

6.1 Top
Yarn shall be spun and knitted as described in Appendix A2. The test
specimen is then prepared as described in Section A2.3 and marked
(with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread) as described in
Appendix A1 .

6.2 Hand and Machine Knitting Yarns

The yarn shall be knitted as described in Appendix A2. The test
specimen is then prepared as described in Section A2.3 and marked
(with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread) as described in
Appendix A1.
NOTE: HAND AND MACHINE WASHABLE YARNS : Following
knitting, the test specimen SHALL be given 1 x 7A wash cycle
before testing.

6.2 Knitted Fabric (not including garments)

For specimens produced according to Appendix A2 , or supplied from a
knitter in fabric form, the test specimen shall be of double thickness
with a preferred size of about 300mm x 400 mm. If necessary the
specimen size may be reduced but shall never be less than 225mm x
300 mm. In all cases the ratio of 3:4 (width : length) shall be observed,
the longer length being in the direction in which the specimen has been
produced, ie the direction of the wales.
NOTE: Specimens in excess of 300mm x 400 mm are not
desirable since their higher weight reduces the number of
specimens which may be tested in the machine.

The free edges shall be sewn together, so that the fabric is face-to-face
with the back of the fabric exposed on both sides, with a dimensionally
stable thread (eg polyester). In cases where unravelling is possible, an
overlock stitch should be used on the edges of the specimen.
Alternatively the specimen may be turned inside out prior to sewing;
before sewing the last few centimetres the specimen shall be turned
the correct way out. Care shall be taken to avoid distortion of the
specimen during sewing.

Mark the test specimens (with an indelible marker pen or sewing

thread) to allow three separate measurements in each direction

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 (Appendix A1: Fig 1). These marks shall be placed not less than 25 mm
from the edge of the specimen. Indicate the direction in which the
specimen has been produced (the wale direction) by means of an
arrow.
NOTE: For unfinished knitted fabric, manufactured from hand and
machine washable yarn, the test specimen shall be given 1 x 7A
cycle before testing.

6.3 Sweaters, Cardigans

The back of the garment shall be marked (with an indelible marker pen
or sewing thread) to allow three measurements in the length and three
measurements in the width direction (Appendix A1: Fig 2). These
marks shall be placed not less than 25 mm from the side seam.
NOTE: Knitted garments shall be turned inside out before
washing.

Additional measurements. Many retailers have their own in-house

specifications which shall be met in addition to Woolmark/Woolmark
Blend requirements. It is common for such specifications to refer to
measurements (a1), (a2), (l) and (w) shown in Appendix A1: Fig 2.

6.4 Socks and Stockings

The product shall be marked (with an indelible marker pen or sewing
thread) to allow four separate measurements in the length direction
only, ie. two on the leg and two on the foot (Appendix A1: Fig 3). The
marks should be placed not less than 25 mm (if possible) from any
point where fashioning takes place. The marks shall not be less than 10
mm from the fold.

6.5 Gloves
Three pairs of marks (with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread)
should be placed on the glove in the width direction and two pairs of
marks in the length direction using similar guidelines to those provided
above.
NOTE: If the shape of the gloves does not allow 3 pairs of marks
in the length and width, mark as reasonably practical.

6.6 Woven Fabric (not including garments)

• Cut a specimen 500 x 500 +/- 50 mm. The edges of the specimen
shall be overlocked to prevent fraying
• Form a cuff in the warp and weft directions on the specimen
originally measuring 500 x 500mm, by folding two sides of the
specimens along lines about 50 mm from the edge (Appendix A1:
Fig 4), with the face of the fabric to the outside.
• The specimen shall be ironed on these lines and sewn 30 – 35
mm from the cuff using a chain stitch or lockstitch.
• Mark (with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread) both the
warp and weft cuff on the fold line such that measurement is

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 unaffected by the specimen edge or the seam line (Appendix A1:
Fig 4).

6.7 Preparation of Woven Fabric into a Trouser Leg (for experimental

evaluation of woven fabrics only).
• Cut two specimens 500 +/- 50 mm in the warp direction and 500
+/- 50 mm in the weft direction.
• Place the two specimens together with the face of the fabric on
the inside and sew a seam at each side in the longer direction,
about 25 mm from the edges of the fabric to form a trouser leg.
Steam Iron or Press the seams open.
• Form a cuff by folding one end of the leg about 40 mm from the
edge (the face of the fabric to the outside). Steam Iron or Press
the cuff and then sew around the cuff 30-35 mm from the cuff fold
using a chain stitch.
• Turn the face of the fabric to the outside and Steam Iron or Press
the prepared trouser leg to give a crease at each side, with the
seams central.
• Mark (with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread) the
specimens to allow three separate measurements in each
direction from crease to crease. Mark the cuff as shown in
Appendix A1: Figure 5b
• After conditioning and initial measurement as described in Section
7, but before washing, offset the creases by about 25 mm and
secure to fix in position.

6.8 Trousers (Woven or Knitted)

The garments shall be marked (with an indelible marker pen or sewing
thread) as shown in Appendix A1: Figs 5a and 5b at the waist (a), knee
(b), cuff (c), outside leg seam (d1 and d2) of both legs, and inside leg
seam (e1 and e2) of both legs. Measurement (f) is only required if the
trouser has a turned up cuff.

6.9 Skirts (Woven or Knitted)

The front of the garment shall be marked (with an indelible marker pen
or sewing thread) as shown in Appendix A1: Figure 7 at the waist (a),
width (b), hem (c) and length (d).
NOTE: Width (b) measurements should be the width of the panel
and placed half way between the bottom of the hem and the
bottom of the waistband. If the panels are less that 250 mm wide,
more than one panel width shall be included in the 300 mm
measurement.

6.10 Blankets
A full adult single bed size product should be tested.
NOTE: If a full adult single bed product is not available the
minimum size shall be 1000x1000 mm.

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 The measured dimensions of the specimen are used; marks shall be
applied to allow three measurements in the length and three in the
width direction. Marks shall be applied near the edge of the specimen,
but shall not be less than 50 mm from any corner.

7. TEST PROCEDURE

NOTE the following is not applicable to Intermediate products see

Appendices A2 and A3

Mark the test specimens (with an indelible marker pen or sewing thread) as
indicated in the appropriate sub-section of clause 6. Each test specimen shall
have a traceable and unique number.

Prior to the test, specimens shall be pre-conditioned, then laid flat, and
separate, in the standard atmosphere to condition for a minimum of 24 hours.
A rapid condition technique may be used if demonstrated to fully condition the
specimen under the conditions used.

7.1 Original Measurement: (OM)

The conditioned, untested specimen measurements shall be taken at
the appropriate points marked (Appendix A1)
NOTE: Measure from centre to centre of the marks.

Calculate separately the mean of the measurements in each direction

and use these values for subsequent calculations of dimensional
change. In the case of cuff edge, measure the distance between the
two marks on each of the cuff edge fold lines (see Appendix A1: Fig 4
and 5b).

7.2 Relaxation Procedure

• Weigh the test specimen(s) and add sufficient SM37 dry ballast to
give a total wash load of 1 kg +/- 100g. Not more than half the
load shall be made up of test specimens EXCEPT where a single
specimen alone exceeds 0.5 kg.
• Where a single specimen exceeds 1 kg it forms the complete load
without the addition of ballast.
• Place the wash load in the Wascator.
• Dissolve the recommended amount of the detergent in water
(Appendix 9) at a temperature in the range of 40°C to 50°C. Add
the detergent solution to the Wascator during the first water fill,
when the water level is above the bottom of the washing drum.
• Set the temperature of the wash cycle to 40 ± 2°C.
• Carry out one 7A wash cycle as specified in Appendix 4.
• Remove the test specimen(s) after the wash cycle and dry as
specified in section 7.4 according to the care claim.

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 Condition the test specimen unless otherwise agreed. Re-measure the
points initially marked in 7.1.
Note: In some instances it may be possible to measure samples
wet or dry without conditioning. This is a non-standard procedure
and shall be reported in Section 9.

Relaxed Measurement: (RM) The relaxed specimen measurements

shall be taken following the 1 x 7A wash cycle, drying and conditioning.

7.3 Felting Procedure

• Weigh the test specimen and add sufficient SM37 ballast to give a
total wash load of 1 kg +/-100g. Not more than half the load shall
be made up of test specimens EXCEPT where a single specimen
alone exceeds 0.5 kg. This can be the same combination of load
and specimen used in the relaxation test.
• Where a single specimen exceeds 1 kg, it forms the complete
load without the addition of ballast.
• Place the wash load in the Wascator.
• Dissolve the recommended amount of detergent in water
(Appendix 9) at a temperature in the range of 40°C to 50°C. Add
the detergent solution to the Wascator during the first water fill,
when the water level is above the bottom of the washing drum.
NOTE: If the product specification requires more than one
washing cycle, a fresh solution of detergent shall be added at
the beginning of each new wash cycle.
• Set the temperature of the washing machine to 40 ± 2°C.
• Carry out the appropriate wash cycle (5A, 7A or other wash
cycles) as specified in the Woolmark specifications.
NOTE: Refer to the appropriate product specification sheet to
obtain the correct information regarding the number and type of
wash cycles to be used.
• For samples being tested to wash and tumble dry (Specification
for Total Easy Care) remove the test specimen after each wash
cycle(s) and tumble dry as specified in section 7.4.
• Repeat the wash (and tumble dry where appropriate) processes
until the required number of cycles have been completed.
• After the last wash cycle, dry the samples according to the
appropriate requirement and (as specified in 7.4) then condition
the test specimen and re-measure the points marked in 7.1.

Felted Measurement (FM): The washed specimen measurements

shall be taken at the appropriate points following the final wash cycle,
drying and conditioning.

7.4 Drying
7.4.1 Flat Dry (all products except tailored garments and
blankets)

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 Place the specimen flat, and separate, on a mesh tray or
screen and gently remove wrinkles without stretching. Place
the mesh tray or screen in an oven for preconditioning and then
condition to the standard atmosphere until the specimen weight
reaches equilibrium.

7.4.2 Hang Dry (all tailored garments and blankets)

Products shall be hang dried in an oven for preconditioning and
then conditioned to the standard atmosphere until the
specimen weight reaches equilibrium.
NOTE: Trousers and skirts shall be hang dried by the waist band
and secured at two points. Blankets shall be hang dried by folding
over the line and secured at two points.

7.4.3 Tumble Dry (Total Easy Care)

All fabrics and garments shall be tumble dried according to
Appendix A5.
NOTE: If garments/products require after wash appearance
assessment, this shall be carried out according to Appendix 6 for
knitteds and Appendix 7 for wovens. The Reference Standards
for Total Easy Care Knitwear (SM64) and Washable Woven
Fabrics (SM65) shall be used to assess the appearance change
after washing and drying

8 CALCULATIONS OF RESULTS

Calculate the mean width (WS) and length (LS) relaxation dimensional
change, felting and total shrinkages separately using the following formulae:

Relaxation dimensional change (%) = (RM - OM) x 100

OM

Felting dimensional change (%) = (FM - RM) x 100

RM

Total dimensional change (%) = (FM - OM) x 100

OM

where: OM = Original Measurements

RM = Relaxed Measurements
FM = Final (Felted) Measurements

NOTE: All measurements used in the calculations are means of length

or width measurements. Shrinkage of the specimen will yield a
negative dimensional change. Expansion or growth of the specimen will
yield a positive dimensional change

NOTE: If the shrinkage values are above the permitted specifications,

but there is no evidence of felting, specimens shall be hand steam

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 ironed setting after the appropriate number of wash cycles. Re-
measure after drying, ironing and reconditioning. ONLY IRON IF
THERE IS NO EVIDENCE OF FELTING (AREA FELTING OR CUFF
EDGE FELTING).

Calculate, as necessary, the Area Dimensional Change from the respective

width and length dimensional change as indicated below:
⎛ WS xLS ⎞
Area Dimensional Change (%) = WS + LS + ⎜ ⎟
⎝ 100 ⎠

where: WS = Mean Width dimensional change (%)

LS = Mean Length dimensional change (%)

NOTE: The correction factor WS x LS is applied to compensate for

100
the shaded area shown in Appendix 1: Fig 6

Calculate the cuffedge dimensional change (CS) and cuffedge differential

dimensional change width and length separately using the following formulae:-

Cuffedge dimensional change (%) = FCM - RCM x 100

RCM

Differential CuffEdge dimensional change (%) = CS – WS or CS – LS

where: RCM = Relaxed cuff measurement

FCM = Felted cuff measurement
WS = Mean Width dimensional change %
LS = Mean Length dimensional change %
CS = Mean Cuff dimensional change in Length or Width

NOTE: The measurements of garments are defined as follows:-

Length - trouser outside leg (both legs)
- skirt length
Width - trousers knee * and waist
- skirt waist or panel *
See Appendix A1. These measurements should be used when
calculating Edge Differential dimensional change.

9. REPORT OF RESULTS

Note: All specimens shall be identified by a traceable and unique

number that shall be recorded on the report.
Note: Report all dimensional changes as either extension[EX] or
shrinkage[SH] as applicable.

• Report that the test(s) was carried out according to Woolmark TWC-
TM31.

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 • Report the identification of the sample
• Report the test date.
• Report the relaxation dimensional change for length, width as
percentages.
• Report the length, width and area felting dimensional change as
percentages.
• Report the length, width and area total dimensional change as
percentages.
• Report length and width cuffedge differential dimensional change (on
woven fabrics as applicable) as percentage units.
• Report the assessments of after-wash appearance (as applicable).
• Report the number of 5A and/or 7A wash cycles carried out.
• Report any deviation from the procedure described (eg, no conditioning
before measurement).

10. REFERENCES

International Standards Organisation standard ISO 6330: 1984,

11. RELATED TEST METHODS

Woolmark TWC-TM254: Tumble Drying Performance After Washing

Woolmark TWC-TM281: Afterwash Appearance of Woven Fabrics and

Woolmark TWC-TM298: Knitwear Surface Appearance Assessed After

Washing and Drying

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12. APPENDICES

APPENDIX A1

Fig 1 KNITTED FABRIC Fig 2 SWEATERS AND

CARDIGANS

a1
a2

W
WW

Fig 3 SOCKS Fig 4 WOVEN FABRIC

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Fig 5a TROUSERS (WOVEN OR KNITTED) Fig 5b

d1 & d2

e2
e1
b

f
c

Fig 6 CORRECTION FACTOR Fig 7 SKIRTS (WOVEN OR

KNITTED)FACTOR

Width
Shrinkage

Length
Shrinkage

WS x LS
100

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APPENDIX A2:
SAMPLE PREPARATION OF INTERMEDIATE PRODUCTS
(Loose Stock and Tops)

1 Preparation of Yarns from Loose Stock

When the product has been shrink-resist treated in loose stock form, and if
specimen carding/spinning facilities exist, a suitably sized representative
specimen blend (Ref. Woolmark sampling procedures) shall be prepared with
lubricant, carded, spun and folded at the specified levels (see Table 1).

When specimen carding facilities do not exist, a specimen of slubbing shall be

taken from the bulk carding and a specimen spun and twisted at the specified
level (see Table 1). (Ref. Woolmark sampling procedures).
NOTE: In the case where specimen preparation machinery is used, this may not fully
reflect bulk production due to unavoidable differences in production
parameters.

TABLE 1: WOOLLEN YARNS

Count Twist (tpm*)

FIBRE
DIAMETER
Tex Metric Singles Folded
(Nm) (Ne)

Coarser R222/2 2/9’s Z 225 S 129

than 24
microns

22 – 24 R143/2 2/14’s Z 280 S 161

microns

Finer than R125/2 2/16’s Z 300 S 173

22 microns

*tpm = turns per metre

2 Preparation of Yarns from Wool Top

When the specimen provided is a top, draft the material on the pin drafter to
obtain a sliver of about 2.8 ktex

Note: If the sliver weight of the top and/or the configuration of the pin
drafter do not allow a sliver of 2.8 ktex, obtain the nearest weight
possible and adjust the draught on the spinning frame to achieve the

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 correct yarn count). Spin the sliver on the spinning frame and double it
to obtain one of the standard two-fold yarns specified in Table 2.

Note: A laboratory may use a single yarn if it can demonstrate that the
single yarn produced will achieve a knitted specimen without undue
spirality, at the correct count, correct cover factor and capable of
conforming to Woolmark Specifications.)

TABLE 2: WORSTED YARNS

Count Twist (tpm*)

FIBRE
DIAMETER
Tex Metric Singles Folded
(Nm)

25 micron or R364/2 2/5.5’s Z 164 S 94.5

coarser

Finer than R71/2 2/28’s Z 370 S 213

25 micron

* tpm = turns per metre

3 Knitting of Yarn

When the specimen is in yarn form (whether spun according to the

requirements of Table 1 or Table 2 or supplied from a spinner), knit the yarn
on the knitting machine (4.8.2) to the required cover factor. (Tables 3 and 4).

Knit the fabric and make appropriate adjustments to the loop length such that
the cover factor (measured as described in Woolmark TWC-TM169) is
produced to within ± 3% of the values indicated in Tables 3 and 4.

TABLE 3: WOOLLEN YARNS

Cover Factor Units Coarse Yarns Fine Yarns

ie 2/9’s Nm ie 2/14’s Nm

Inches worsted 0.85 1.0

cm metric 0.31 0.37
mm. tex 1.00 1.17

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TABLE 4: WORSTED YARNS

Cover Factor Units Coarse Yarns Fine Yarns

i.e. 2/5.5’s Nm i.e. 2/28’s Nm

Inches worsted 1.0 1.1

cm metric 0.37 0.41
mm. tex 1.17 1.29

NOTE: If yarns finer than 2/28 Nm will not knit at a cover factor of 1.1 inches
worsted, two ends should be run as one in order to achieve the desired cover
factor.
NOTE: If yarns coarser than 2/5.5 Nm will not knit at a cover factor of 0.85
inches worsted then knit to the most appropriate cover factor.

Preparation of the test specimens is described in Section 6.

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APPENDIX A3
WASHING OF INTERMEDIATE PRODUCTS

Specimen made from loose stock and tops do not require conditioning prior to testing
as they are measured in a wet state.

1 RELAXATION PROCEDURE

• Weigh the test specimen(s) and add sufficient SM37 dry ballast to give a total
wash load of 1 kg +/- 100g. Not more than half the load shall be made up of
test specimens.
• Place the wash load in the Wascator.
• Dissolve the recommended amount of detergent in water at a temperature of
40°C to 50°C. Add the detergent solution to the Wascator during the first
water fill when the water level is above the bottom of the washing drum.
• Set the temperature of the wash cycle to 40 ± 2°C.
• Carry out one 7A wash cycle.
• Remove the test specimen(s) after the wash cycle, lay each specimen flat in
the measuring tray (without undue stretching) under 20mm to 30mm of water
and measure at the appropriate points following the 1 x 7A wash cycle.
Alternatively the wet sample may be carefully placed on a flat surface
(avoiding distortions) and measured.
Record as: Relaxed Measurement: (RM)

2 FELTING PROCEDURE

• Replace the test specimens in the Wascator using ballast pieces of the same
number used for the relaxation cycle.
• Dissolve the recommended amount of detergent in water at a temperature
40°C to 50°C. Add the detergent solution to the Wascator during the first
water fill, when the water level is above the bottom of the washing drum.
• Set the temperature of the washing machine to 40 ± 2°C.
• Carry out the appropriate number of 5A wash cycles, as specified in the
Woolmark specifications. (Usually 5x5A for Intermediate Stock)
• Remove the test specimens after the appropriate number and type of wash
cycles, lay each specimen flat in the measuring tray (without undue
stretching) under 20mm to 30mm of water and measure at the appropriate
points following the 5 x 5A wash cycles. Alternatively the wet sample may be
carefully placed on a flat surface (avoiding distortions) and measured.

Record as: Felted Measurement: (FM)

Calculate as described in Section 8

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3. REPORTING OF RESULTS

Note: All specimens shall be identified by a traceable and unique

number that shall be recorded on the report.
Note: Report all dimensional changes as either extension or shrinkage
(as applicable).

• Report that the test(s) was carried out according to Woolmark TWC-TM31.
• Report the identification of the sample
• Report the test date.
• Report the number of 5A and/or 7A wash cycles carried out.
• Report the length, width and area felting dimensional change (as applicable)
as percentages.
• Report the assessments of appearance (as applicable).
• Report any deviation from the procedure described (eg, no conditioning
before measurement).

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APPENDIX A4

Washing procedures for Wascator

Defining ISO6330:
Standard 1984
Cycle 7A 5A
Fill Temperature 20C 20C
Heating None Gentle
Agitation Washing and
Gentle Normal
Rinsing
Temperature 40 ± 3 40 ± 3
Liquor Level cm 13 10
Washing Washing
min 3 12
time
Cool Down No No
Liquor Level cm 13 13
Rinse 1
Rinse Time min 3 3
Liquor Level cm 13 13
Rinse 2 Rinse Time min 3 3
Spin min 1 1
Liquor Level cm 13 13
Rinse 3 Rinse Time min 2 2
Spin time min 6 1
Liquor Level cm 13
Rinse 4 Rinse Time min 2
Spin time min 6

Version 2009 Page 21 of 32

APPENDIX A5
TUMBLE DRYING PERFORMANCE AFTER WASHING

1 SCOPE

This procedure is intended to determine the effect of tumble drying after

washing on a range of properties of wool textile products (woven and knitted
fabrics or garments).

2. TEST SPECIMENS

The tumble dry load should be 1 kg comprising the test specimen together
with polyester ballast (SM37) as described previously.

3. DETERMINATION OF TUMBLE DRY CYCLE TIME

NOTE: Determination of the final drying cycle time, for wovens and
knitteds, need only be established once for each tumble drying
machine and ambient condition.

Load (Knitted Products)

Use a 1kg load (+-100g) composed entirely of 100% wool knitted ballast
conditioned for a minimum of 24 hours in the standard atmosphere and weigh
[Mc] to the nearest gram.

Load (Woven Products)

Use a 1kg load (+-100g) composed entirely of 100% wool woven ballast
conditioned for a minimum of 24 hours in the standard atmosphere and weigh
[Mc] to the nearest gram.

Thoroughly wet the (either woven or knitted ballast) load in the Wascator at 15
± 5°C at high water level, agitate for about 2 minutes using gentle action,
static soak for about 28 minutes, drain and spin for about 6 minutes.

Remove the total load from the Wascator and weigh [Mw].

Determine the mass of the moisture retained in the load [Mr].

Place the load in the tumble drier and set the timer in excess of 80 minutes (to
avoid any cool down time) and switch on.

After 30 minutes stop the machine, remove the load and weigh it [M30].
Determine the amount of moisture evaporated [Me] and from this the drying
rate (a) is determined (see step 6).

Re-wet the load, then re-weigh [Mw2] .

Determine the mass of the moisture retained [Mr2].

Version 2009 Page 23 of 32

 From the moisture retained and drying rate (a), determine the preliminary
cycle time [PCT] (see step 9 below).

Return the load to the drier, set it to a time safely in excess of this determined
preliminary cycle time, and switch on

Stop the drying at the preliminary cycle time, remove total load and weigh it.
[Mw3]. Establish the mass of moisture evaporated [Me2] (see step 11.).

From this and the preliminary cycle time, calculate the final drying rate (b),
(see step 12 below).

Using the drying rate (b) and the test load mass of moisture [Mr] calculate the
final estimated dry cycle time [t], (see step 13). Perform test cycles using the
final estimated test cycle time calculated.

WOOLMARK TWC-TM254 DETERMINATION OF TUMBLE DRY TIME

Measured
Step Measurement required Unit Calculation
Value

1 Conditioned Mass of Load Mc Kg

2 Mass of Initial Wet load Mw Kg

3 Moisture Retained in Load Mr Kg Mw – Mc

Mass after drying for 30
4 M30 Kg
minutes
Moisture evaporated in 30
5 Me Kg Mw - M30
minutes
6 Initial Drying Rate a Kg/Hr Me x 2
Mass of Load after re-
7 MW2 Kg
wetting
Moisture Retained after Re-
8 Mr2 Kg MW2 - Mc
wetting
Mr2
9 Preliminary Cycle Time PCT Hours
a
Mass of rewet load after
10 MW3 Kg
drying for PCT
Moisture evaporated after
11 Me2 Kg MW3 - Mc
PCT
Me2
12 Final Drying rate b Kg/Hr
PCT
Mr x 60 + cool
Final Estimated test cycle
13 t Minutes down
time
b

Version 2009 Page 24 of 32

 If ambient conditions (temperature and relative humidity) are stable, the drying
rate (b), need be determined only once but if they are variable, the drying rate
be determined for the new conditions. A stable ambient condition equates to a
maximum range of temperature of 10°C and a maximum range of relative
humidity of 10%.

Cycle time estimated using this method has been demonstrated to be within
2% of the true time as measured using an accurate scale. This precision is
acceptable because of the subjectivity of the over dry factors due to drying
different fibre types in the same load.

The tumble drying machine shall be at ambient temperature before a repeat

test is done.

4. TEST PROCEDURE

After subjecting the specimens and load to washing in the Wascator turn the
test specimen inside out then transfer the washed test specimens plus the
polyester ballast to the tumble drier.

Tumble dry the load for the final tumble dry cycle time, for the fabric type ie
knitted or woven as pre-determined as above, or if a load cell is used, dry the
load down to the original weight of the wash load at ambient conditions.

Remove the dry load from the tumble drier.

Turn the test specimen the correct side out.

Condition the textile flat for a minimum of 24 hours in the standard

atmosphere.

If it is required to determine the performance of the test sample when

repeatedly washed and tumble dried, repeat the above stages for the required
number of 7A and/or 5A wash and tumble dry cycles.

Record any appearance changes eg creasing, fuzzing or colour change.

Assess the changes according to Appendix 6 for knitwear or Appendix 7 for
wovenwear.

An example of a sequence of 1x7A followed by 5x5A followed by tumble

drying is as follows:
• 1 x 7A followed by a tumble dry cycle
• Condition and measure.
• 1 x 5A followed by a tumble dry. This procedure is repeated to
give a total of 2 x 5A/TD cycles
• Visually assess the appearance
• Repeat 5A+Tumble dry cycles a further three times to a total of
5 cycles.
• Condition and remeasure after the 5th cycle.
• Calculate area dimensional change.

Version 2009 Page 25 of 32

APPENDIX 6
KNITWEAR SURFACE APPEARANCE ASSESSED AFTER WASHING AND
DRYING

1 SCOPE

This procedure is intended to assess the after wash and dry (flat or tumble)
appearance of individual knitted garments. This test can be carried out in
conjunction with Woolmark TWC-TM206.

2 PRINCIPLE

The appearance of a fully finished garment is assessed after subjecting it to

hand or machine washing followed by a flat dry or tumble dry, using a series
of Reference Knitted Fabric Standards under standard lighting conditions.
NOTE: It is recommended to use a minimum 3 assessors.

3 ASSESSMENT AND GRADING

The garment to be assessed is mounted under the standard viewing and

lighting conditions as given in AATCC 88B and 88C.

Mask the garment to leave a central assessment area the same dimensions
as the reference standards.

Grade the exposed garment area by comparison with the relevant reference
knitted fabric standards placed at the same height as the central assessment
area of the garment. Quote the number of reference standard which
corresponds most closely with the garment surface.

If the rating appears between two reference knitted fabric standards, report
the result as half a grade, ie 2-3.

Remove the mask and assess the overall afterwash appearance of the
garment according to the inspection criteria given in the Table below. For
each criteria, the assessment “Acceptable” or “Unacceptable” be given and
recorded as shown in Table below.

Afterwash Appearance Assessment

Inspection Criteria (Acceptable/Unacceptable)

Spot Felting (two or more)

Evenness of Colour
Spiralling
Garment Symmetry
Puckering at seams, welt, neck or
button band

Version 2009 Page 26 of 32

APPENDIX 7
AFTERWASH APPEARANCE OF WOVEN FABRICS AND GARMENTS

1 SCOPE

This procedure is applicable to machine washable woven fabric and garments

made from machine washable woven fabric. The test may be used to visually
assess the afterwash appearance in terms of:-
Fabric Smoothness (Fabrics or Garments)
Seam Smoothness (Garments only)
Crease Retention (Garments only)
and to subjectively assess other aspects of afterwash appearance.

This method is based on AATCC test method 88B for assessment of seam
smoothness and the use of Woolmark Company photographic standards for
crease retention.

2 PRINCIPLE

A fabric or garment is washed for the appropriate number and type of wash
cycles (according to the relevant product specification and the machine wash
claim) and dried. The fabric smoothness, seam smoothness and crease
retention are then visually assessed against reference standards under
standard lighting conditions.

3 PROCEDURE

A fully finished garment, representative of bulk production shall be used.

Note: When testing fabric samples, the assessment of seam
smoothness and crease retention may only be carried out if a
seam/crease representative of that to be used in the final garment is
made.

Ironing: If the fabric or garment claim is machine washable only, iron after
the wash, dry and measure cycle before assessing. If the claim is easy
care, minimum iron or has a durable or permanent crease claim, do
not iron after the washing, drying, measuring and assessing.

4 ASSESSMENT

Assessment is carried out on the fabric or garment after the completed

washing, drying and measuring procedure as referred to in Section 7. The
test specimens be assessed under the standard lighting conditions as
specified in AATCC test method 88B and 88C. For each fabric/garment, the
test report given below (as appropriate) must be completed.
NOTE: Additional assessments may be carried out between wash
cycles if required.

Fabric Smoothness: Assess the specimens against the appropriate fabric

smoothness photographs as follows:

Version 2009 Page 27 of 32

 • Skirts/Shirts/Blouses: Assess the front and back of the garment
separately.
• Trousers: Assess each leg (front and back) separately.
NOTE: In all cases, assess the front and back of the garment
separately, taking care not to include (as part of the fabric smoothness
grade) any puckering occurring from the seam or crease.
NOTE: Select the set of photographs appropriate to the fabric type, ie,
Plain or Twill weave.

Seam Smoothness: Assess the test specimen according to AATCC 88B

against the seam smoothness photographs. Two sets of photographs are
available; one for single and one for double needled seams. Select the set of
photographs appropriate to the seam being evaluated.
• Trousers: The inside and outside leg seams be assessed
separately.
NOTE:The seams inside the garment leg remain flat after washing.

Crease Retention: Assess the test specimen against the appropriate

reference crease retention photographs as follows:-
• Minimum Iron Claim: Assess the crease below the line of the crotch.
• Non-Iron Claim: Assess the full length of the crease.
NOTE: Assessment of crease retention is only applicable for minimum
iron and non-iron claims.

Additional Assessment for Fabrics and Garments

Assess the test specimen for : Facing-up
: Surface Change

Additional Assessments for Garments Only

The following areas should also be assessed:-
• Pocket edges (for stitch pucker).
• Waistband, trouser cuffs, collars, creases, back seam, pockets and any
other edges (for evidence of felting).
• The zip or fastener area.

Version 2009 Page 28 of 32

TEST REPORT : TROUSERS

DATE:

SAMPLE REFERENCE:

CLAIM: MACHINE WASH*

MINIMUM IRON*
NON IRON*

Fabric
Crease Retention
Smoothness Seam Smoothness (Grade)
(Grade) Additional
Number and (Grade)
Assessments
Type of
(see App7.4)
Wash Cycles Left Leg Right Leg
Left Right Left Right
Leg Leg Leg** Leg**
Inside# Outside Inside# Outside

reference
photographs N/A
used

OVERALL GARMENT ACCEPTABLE/UNACCEPTABLE*

APPEARANCE

# Seam remain flat after washing.

* Delete as appropriate
** Three separate areas of assessment should be used (hem to knee,
knee to crotch, crotch to waist band). An overall grade allocated
according to the performance of the worst section(s) of the crease.
These criteria are only applicable to minimum iron or non iron claims.

Version 2009 Page 29 of 32

TEST REPORT: GARMENT OTHER THAN TROUSERS

DATE:

SAMPLE REFERENCE:

GARMENT TYPE:

CLAIM: MACHINE WASH*

MINIMUM IRON*
NON IRON*

Additional
Fabric Assessment
Number and Type of Smoothness** Seam Smoothness** Crease Retention** (See Notes 7.4 and
Wash Cycles (Grade) (Grade) (Grade) 7.5)

photographs used N/A

OVERALL GARMENT ACCEPTABLE/UNACCEPTABLE*

APPEARANCE

* Delete as appropriate
** An overall grade allocated according to the performance of the worst
area(s).

Version 2009 Page 30 of 32

APPENDIX 8
APPARATUS AND MATERIAL SUPPLIERS

The ‘Wascator FOM 71 Special and Microprocessor Laboratory Washing

Machines’
Electrolux-Wascator
P.O. Box 87
S-341 00 Ljungby
Sweden
Tel: + 46 372 66313
Fax: + 46 372 13390

SM37 polyester ballast,

ECE detergent A (without OBA)

James H Heal & Co Ltd SDC Enterprises

Richmond Works Unit 29, Pitcliffe Way,
Halifax Upper Castle Street,
West Yorkshire Bradford BD5 7SG
HX3 6EP England
United Kingdom Tel : + 44 (0) 1274 750 160
Tel: + 44 (0) 1422 366355 Fax : + 44 (0) 1274 750 162
Fax: + 44 (0) 1422 352440

Tumble drier
The Crimp Tester

James H Heal & Co Ltd SDL International Ltd

Richmond Works PO Box 162
Halifax Crown Royal
West Yorkshire Shawcross Street
HX3 6EP Stockport SK1 3JW
United Kingdom United Kingdom
Tel: + 44 (0) 1422 366355 Tel : + 44 (0) 161 480 8485
Fax: + 44 (0) 1422 352440 Fax : + 44 (0) 161 480 8580

SM67 100% Wool Ballast

SM64 Reference Knitted Fabric Standards for Total Easy Care Knitwear and
SM65 Woven Fabric Smoothness photographs for Washable Woven Fabrics
The Woolmark Company
Level 30, 580 George St
Sydney, NSW
Australia
Phone: +61 (2) 9299 5155
Mobile: +61 (4) 3942 2131

Version 2009 Page 31 of 32

APPENDIX 9:
WATER HARDNESS

Before carrying out any washing cycle the water hardness shall be measured
using a total hardness determination kit with a precision dropper.

Ensure that at the end of the suds cycle of the washing stage, the suds height
in the Wascator is approximately 20-30 mm.

The following guide for detergent concentration for all wash cycles shall be
used:-

ppm CaCO3 Detergent Concentration (gl-1)

7A Cycle 5A Cycle
0 - 20 1.0 0.3
20 - 90 1.0 1.0
90 - 150 2.0 2.0
> 150 3.0 3.0

NOTE: These recommendations should only be treated as

guidelines since other components of water hardness can also
influence suds formation, and therefore the rate and degree of
shrinkage of wool during testing.

©The Woolmark Company Pty Limited 2008

All rights reserved. This work is copyright. Except as permitted under the Copyright Act 1968 (Cth),
no part of this publication may be reproduced by any process, electronic or otherwise, without the
specific written permission of the copyright owner. Neither may information be stored electronically
in any form whatsoever without such permission.

Version 2009 Page 32 of 32