instructables

Brass and Copper Soldering

by lonesoulsurfer

Brass or copper soldering like most things is easy
once you know the basics. It’s a great skill to have as
it allows you to be able to fabricate and make things
out of relatively cheap materials.
I had to learn the hard way how to solder brass and
copper – by trial and error. I’ve made plenty of
mistakes though and I would have benefitted from a
simple guide ao I thought I would put this one
together for all those just starting out.
I have made a whole bunch of different projects with
brass and copper (see the long list below) but I
always assume that everyone knows how to solder.
By putting this ‘ible together, my hope is that even if
you are a novice, you will be able to make any of the
projects listed below.
The project that I made in this 'ible can be found here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhvaXLESKdM&t=12s

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 1

Step 1: Tools

The good news is you don’t need many expensive 3. Flux – eBay, Hardware store. Can be either paste
parts or tools to start soldering copper and brass or liquid flux.
together. In fact, all you really need is some flux, blow
torch and some solder. However, there are a few 4. Isopropyl alcohol to clean up any flux residue
other tools which can help you along the way.
5. Pliers
I’ll go into more details on the tools but for the
meantime, the list below is what you will need to 6. Vice
become an expert in soldering
7. Small files
Parts and Tool List
8. Wet/dry Sandpaper – from 300 to 1200 grit.
1. Silver Solder – eBay, Hardware store

2. Blow Torch – eBay, Hardware store

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 2

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 3
Step 2: Types of Blow Torches
Go to any hardware store and you will come across a
whole array of different types of blow torches. I have
a few different types that I use for different types of
soldering. However, in my opinion, you only need a
couple types, a mini one for delicate work, and a
larger one.
The blow torch you can see in the images with the
red gas cylinder was my go to for a long time.
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However, I recently got my hands on the brazing
torch which is the one with the blue canister and I
really like using this one. The flame is hotter and I can
control what area's I want to heat up. These are on
the more expensive side though so I would start with
one like with the red gas can. these take butane and
are great for most jobs that you will need to do.
Step 3: Why Silver Solder?
There are a few different types of solder on the
market. If you have done any electronic soldering you
probably used a lead based solder. This is fine for
soldering electronic components together but isn’t
really strong enough, nor does it give a great bond, to
copper and brass. Your best option is to use a silver
solder. There's only about 3.5% silver in the solder
(you can get higher amounts but it gets more
expensive) but that small amount helps with strength.
Step 4: Why Do You Need to Add Flux?
Basically, flux prevents oxidization of the metals
being soldered as well as moves it. If your metals are
oxidized, then you may have trouble soldering the
parts together. Without it, you probably won’t get the
solder to flow and join the metal parts together.
There are different types of fluxes that you can use
for the job. Some are specific to electronic soldering
whilst others are made for brass and coppers
soldering. You can get it in liquid or paste form. I
prefer the paste but both work fine.
If you go to the plumbing section of your local
hardware store, you will be able to find suitable flux to 3. Wipe away the baking soda and flux residue with a
use when soldering brass and copper.
Soldered joints using flux can become corrosive and
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 5
Silver soldering, also known as 'hard' soldering or
silver brazing, also has a higher melting point then
lead so it is important to heat-up the copper/brass
sufficiently to get the solder to melt into the joint.
More on this later
So to summarize - Silver solder in general has a
stronger bond, is less susceptible to mechanical
fatigue and creates a more reliable joint.
it’s important to clean off the excess flux to prevent
any corrosion from happening. Most of my projects I
use sandpaper or a polishing agent to remove the
excess flux but you can also use baking soda to
neutralize the flux.
Steps:
1. Make a paste from baking soda and warm water.
2. Apply the paste with a toothbrush to the flux and
leave for a couple of minutes
damp cloth
Step 5: Getting Started – Preparing the Brass/Copper
Soldering works by capillary action – the solder is
drawn into the joint by the heat and flux.
1. Place the 2 pieces of copper/brass you want to
solder on a hard surface. In this case I’m soldering a
copper reducer to a piece of copper pipe.
2. Make sure that you add some flux to the area to be
soldered. I use a paste flux which is self-cleaning
(although you should still wipe it with some Isopropyl
alcohol afterwards.
3. Some people here will say that it is imperative to
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clean the parts that are to be soldered together. I
honestly only do this when the metal is old or dirty,
otherwise I don’t bother. If however you want to clean
them, then some Isopropyl alcohol will do the job.
4. Place the flux right around the pipe and place the
reducer onto the end. Wipe off any excess flux.
5. The solder will want to be pulled downwards
(capillary action and gravity) so make sure whatever
you are soldering is sitting so the solder can flow into
it.
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 7
Step 6: Getting Started – Heating the Brass/Copper

1. As the area that you want to add the solder to is
relatively large, you can turn the blow torch up to full.
2. Ignite the torch and start to heat the metal up.
IMPORTANT
flux on the outside, then make sure you don’t have
the flame directly on the flux. It will burn and become
inactive. You need to add the flame around the flux to
get it melted and flowing and then you can start to
add the flame to the section that you want to add
solder to. More on this later.

- When doing this make sure you don’t just keep the 3. Continue to heat-up the metal until the flux starts to
flame on one area. It’s important to move the flame melt, bubble (if you are using a paste) and smoke.
around the area that you want to add solder to and
also heat up both the pipe and the copper cap. 4. Usually, once you see the flux start to smoke and
bubble, then the metal is usually hot enough to melt
- As the flux is inside the area that you want to solder, the solder.
it’s ok to add the flame directly to this section. If
however you are soldering something that has the

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Step 7: Getting Started – Adding the Solder
1. Continue to add heat to the metal. However, the
heat shouldn’t need to be added directly to the area
that you need to solder. If you do add heat to the area
whist trying to add solder to the joint, then the solder
will most likely melt before it touches the joint.
2. Place the solder on the joint. If it starts to melt then
the metal is hot enough, if it doesn’t add some more
heat to the area.
3. Move the solder around the joint and make sure
you get an even spread of solder. Heat up the area if
the solder stops flowing.
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4. In a joint like this one which needs to be air tight,
it’s better to add too much then not enough. Excess
solder can be cleaned-up and filed away.
This is probably one of the easiest joints to solder.
The part can easily sit straight, the joint is made to
take solder, and any excess solder is hidden mostly
inside the parts. However, this is great practice to
understand how hot the metal needs to be and also
how to get the solder flowing into the joint correctly.
What would happen if you had to clamp 2 parts
together sideways and solder these
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 10
Step 8: Getting Started – Cleaning and Finishing
As mentioned, the flux that I use is self-cleaning;
however, it’s good practice to remove any flux left
over. You can use a mixture of baking soda and
water to neutralize any of the flux that might be left as
it can be acidic. Make it into a paste and with a
toothbrush add it to the soldered areas. leave for a
minute and wipe away with a damp cloth.
As I usually file and sand the parts, I don't usually
worry about removing any left over flux as it usually
gets removed this way.
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There have been a few comments on this saying it is
a waste of time to worry about removing any flux and
you should just wipe it away. I've been scouring the
internet on this and it all depends on what type of flux
you use. I would err on the side of caution and
neutralize the flux just to be sure. Again, it really
depends on what flux you use and also what you are
making.
Step 9: Using a Vice - Part 1
The vice is your best friend when soldering. You can
use it as a hard surface, and also hold parts together.
The following will show how to solder a part that
needs to be clamped together.
1. The parts that I’m clamping together are a piece of
copper pipe and a small brass nut. It’s possible that I
could solder these parts standing up, but I need the
nut to be soldered precisely to the bottom of the tube.
2. Add some flux to the areas that need to take solder
3. Place the 2 parts in a vice. You don’t need to
squeeze these parts together tight, just make sure
that they are secure.
4. Heat up the metal until the flux starts to smoke and
bubble. Make sure you don’t add heat directly to the
flux when you initially start to heat the metal up. You
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 12
can however once the flux has melted.
5. Add solder to the joint. You will see that the solder
will start to pool at the bottom of the joint (damn you
gravity!). Don’t stress, you can fix this up later.
6. Once you have added enough solder to cover the
joint, remove the metal out of the vice (I do this whilst
it is still hot by using some pliers – be careful though),
and place it on top of the vice. You are now going to
re-flow the solder so it evens out on the joint.
7. Heat-up the soldered area until the solder starts to
flow. If you don’t bump the metal whilst soldering,
then it will stay in place.
8. Clean away any excess flux
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 13
Step 10: Using a Vice - Part 2
So what about soldering a part that has a small or
difficult joint to solder to? This can be tricky as you
need to find a way to clamp these two parts together.
A vice can work in most cases but you might have to
think creatively. Jigs are also another way to help
hold the parts together whilst you add the solder.
1. Place the parts in a vice. If necessary, you may
have to use something to help hold everything in
place. In this sample, I used a few bearings to sit the
pipe onto
2. Add flux to the area that you want to solder.
3. Heat up the section that you want to add solder to.
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As I have already soldered a few other parts to the
copper pipe, I don’t want to add direct heat to those
sections if I can help it as it might start the solder
flowing again.
4. To get a smaller, concentrated area of heat, turn
the blow torch down.
5. Add the solder to the joint. If it is only a small point
that you need to solder to, then make sure you add
enough solder to enable a secure fix. Be careful
though as the solder will have a tendency to flow
down and this could cause leakages of the solder.
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 15
Step 11: Soldering Small Pieces

Using a large blow torch isn’t feasible when you are 2. Heat-up the area with a mini blow torch.
trying to solder smaller, delicate pieces together. You Remember not to put the heat directly onto the flux
need to use a mini blow torch to control the heat and initially or you might burn it.
enable you to add solder to the joint.
3. Once the flux starts to smoke you are usually ready
One of the trickiest parts of soldering small pieces is to add the solder. Touch the end of the solder to the
how to hold them in place whist you heat-up the joint and keep the heat near the area (not on it
metal? You need to be able to heat it up with one though)
hand and add the solder with the other. I find that a
helping hand like the one in the image below will work 4. Once the solder has been added, I usually add
in most situations. Sometimes you need to improvise more heat to the joint to flow the solder and make
though with what you have around you. sure that the joint is secure.

1. Add a small amount of flux to the area you want to 5. Add more solder if necessary
solder

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 16

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 17
Step 12: Solder Leakage
These usually occur when you are adding more than
1 part to the piece you are soldering. The metal heats
up and the solder starts to flow again. If you have
added a lot of solder, then there is a good chance that
it will leak. You can try to avoid this by not adding
direct heat to the part soldered, although this doesn’t
always work.
1. If a drip of solder is running down an area that it
shouldn’t be, you can wipe it away with a rag whilst
still hot. Obviously be careful as it is molten metal.
Wiping it away will most likely leave a silver mark but
at least there won’t be a blob of solder to deal with
2. You will need to get rid of the solder mark by using
some small, fine files. Remove all traces of the solder
with the files and then smooth out with some wet and
dry sandpaper. I usually use 600 to get the metal
smooth again and remove any scratches from the
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 18
files.
3. If you have a leakage, and the part needs to be
airtight, then you need to check and make sure that it
still is. If not, then heat-up the area and reflow the
solder again. Obviously this could cause problems
with other parts soldered to the piece so reduce the
heat on the blow torch and take your time.
4. If it is air tight, then you can do a couple of things
a. Remove the excess solder with some small, fine
files. This will take some time but you will be able to
remove the excess solder. Clean-up with some
wet/dry sandpaper b. Use a homemade lathe like this
one I made and use a file to remove the excess
solder. It’s definitely a faster way to do it but you need
to be careful that you don’t scratch the metal too
much.
In step 8, your photo shows a container of baking powder, but your explanation says baking soda.
Do there two items work interchangeably? Is one better than the other?

Sorry for the confusion. It should be baking soda. I've been storing my baking soda in the baking
powder container! I'll clear that up in the step.
Thanks for the heads-up

I own a music store and so I solder on brass and silver plated instruments a lot. Here's a tip: If
there is somewhere that you absolutely DON'T want solder to stick, paint the area with old
fashioned white-out that you get in a bottle at the office supply store.

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 19

When you hit it with the torch the white-out turns black and carbonizes and solder won't stick there.
When you're done soldering and after the part has cooled, remove the white-out with a bit of
lacquer thinner.
Oddly enough, I learned this trick not from an instrument repairman, but from an old high school
class mate that makes tiny props and things for movies, including some award winners such as
Amelie.

This is a great tip - I'm going to try it out on my next copper project - thanks!

This is good... Covers the basic necessities, but after doing some (a lot?) you find that getting the
heat correct, as goldilocks said 'not too hoo, not too cold' is the key to it all. There's a lot to be said
here... Direction of flame,different torches,rising heat (and yes large thermal masses, like a vice
absorbing a lot of heat, etc.) but mostly you learn all that stuff with the flame burning, and the
solder flowing (or not as the case may be). Flux is needed when at the lower temps.
As a plumber, I always cleaned everything with sandcloth, then applied flux. Both remove oxides,
which interferes w/ good solder flow, the flux removes it chemically instead of mechanically. Later,
with refrigeration and high silver contents, the heat is high enough to drive off the oxides so the flux
is optional, except with oddball joints of dissimilar metals (steel is a pain!).
Like I said, good instructable... Practice and learn to control the heat

Very true. I'll add a few comments in the 'ible about the art of getting the right heat.
Thanks for the info (and reminder!)

This is NOT silver soldering. It's soft soldering with lead free solder. Silver solder has a silver
content of 40% upwards, not the 3.5% of the stuff you have in the plastic tube! The melting point of
'real' silver solder is over 600 degrees C, what you are using melts at 220 degrees C according to
the card. Your copper pipe should be glowing red! Flux for silver soldering usually comes as a
powder to be mixed with water when you want to use it. Silver solder is too expensive to be using it
in the way you are!

I agree with this Dick, and your advice is not at all nasty. The technique between lead free soft
solder as shown here and silver or hard soldering is also different. Hard soldering on jewelry
requires tighter joints and finer tolerances and the capillary action is the crux of the joint. Silver
solder also partially blends with the base metal whereas soft solder is like surface glue and sits on
the copper surface, and thus is a weaker joint. You could do silver soldering on the job you have
here but it would require tight fits and heating the copper to cherry red. That said, LSS you did do a
good soft solder demonstration.

NO it is NOT silver soldering. I DO however use solder that has 3.5% silver content as YOU have
indicated.
Come on man - If you are going to leave a comment - then at least try and make it constructive and
relevant to the Instructable.

I agree with Dick - he pointed at right detail: if you come at shop and ask "silver solder for copper",
people think you're the clown. TERMINOLOGY - study first, write next. And don't be that munny-
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 20
 nunny, who cries after every critic!

But you called it 'silver soldering' and said that it was 'hard' soldering. My comment was trying to
inform and be constructive. I wouldn't want anyone to believe that what you described was suitable
for anything that needed high strength joints such as a copper boiler for a model steam locomotive.

I really enjoyed going through this post. I have seen the terms soldering and welding used
interchangeably and would like to know the difference. I realize that they are not the same thing.
Can you please give a quick explanation? Thanks

My compliments

The vice would have been taking a lot of the heat away from the part.

True that - it does add like a heat sink. however, you can get the brass/copper hot enough, it just
take a little longer with the blow torch.

Hi, Really great Instructable! I've only applied solder to copper foil for St. Glass projects, so I'm not
terribly experienced.
I wanted to solder some copper jewelry pieces,...problem is the solder color, usually brass or silver.
But that's the reason I'm writing. I found a new product (copper colored), 18 ga copper hard solder!
Now I can stop "painting or patina-ing the joint afterwards.
(http://www.rings-things.com/Products/Hard-Jewelry-Solder-Flux-and-Pickle/Solder-Copper-
Wire.html).
Thought it might be of interest, if the final appearance/color of the solder joint is important, like it is
in jewelry work. I have no idea how strong the solder is. I just purchased some & haven't tried it
yet. But I thought this may be of interest to some!

Great stuff! This would be perfect to use on projects for copper or brass as it would blend in a
whole lot better than solder.

Man - are you making things hard for yourself...... Am surprised previous comments from plumbers
didn't pick up on a couple of things.:
* Prepping the surfaces: before flux - SAND THE PIPE/FITTINGS with plumber's cloth - & internal
pipe/tube surfaces with an appropriately sized wire brush. Plumber's cloth comes in small rolls - &
works better the longer you use a piece! ( Very economical! ) Wipe with a cloth to remove any
remaining grit on your mating surfaces.
* Joining the pieces: The flux adds the medium which will draw the solder UP or SIDEWAYS or
DOWN - in conjunction with capillary action.
* Cleaning the finished joint: Alcohol? Baking soda? Sandpaper? Files? How much time do you
have to WASTE???? Just as soon as you have finished drawing the solder into the joint - WIPE
WITH A CLEAN RAG!!! This eliminates fussing over finished appearance - as it will remove any
'tits' left by the solder - create a 45 degree bevel to the outside of the joint - as well as remove the
molten flux & leave a clean 'finished' look to the joint.
Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 21
Go find yourself a plumber or instrumentation fitter & learn the more satisfactory ( - & less time
consuming! ) method. You'll be MUCH happier with your finished product!
Good luck!!

Flux can be corrosive - removing it from the metal will ensure that the joint stays clean. I file and
sand to remove excess solder as I explained. The excess flux will also be removed when you file
and sand. You can do any of these or none - just depends on what type of flux you used.

Hands down the best article on soldering I have ever come across! I am a beginning jewelry
student and have had a terrible time learning to solder correctly. I was ready to give up and read
this article and now am ready to tackle the job again. Great explaaination and pictures. A++++
thank you so much!

Don't know about that but thanks anyhow!

A very nicely presented set of instructions. I've always had good luck using "lead" solder as a
previous commenter stated and the new "non-lead" works very well as a replacement. This for non
stressed joints, water plumbing and such. However silver soldered joints are needed for tasks such
as refrigeration plumbing. I've found sanding or brushing the solder area prior to using flux greatly
increases fully soldered joints. There manufactured brushes available designed to clean 1/2" and
3/4" copper tubing and they substitute for sanding. Don't forget to clean both male and female
ends.
bending the solder 90 degrees at a length equal to the tubing diameter assures you are using
enough solder.
Mape gas produces higher heat and speeds the work, use it the same as propane. It's almost a
must for silver soldering in my opinion.

Excellent tips - thanks. cleaning the parts prior to soldering is not something that I usually do well.
I'm going to get my hands on some of those brushes and will add the tips to the 'ible - thanks again

Hi, nice instructable. I must put you right on a couple of points though. I have been a plumber for
over 40 years, and we never ever use silver solder. Lead based is the one we use and as you
rightly say has a lower melting point making it easier to use and it’s also a lot cheaper! We often
have to solder connectors upside down, against the flow of gravity, but capilliary attraction is
enough to pull the molten solder into the joint.

Thanks for the info. For small projects like the lighter I made, I don't mind paying a little extra for a
stronger solder. If I was going to to a larger project though - I'd definitely just use a lead solder as
you have said.

We have installed numerous solar water heating systems. Nobody drinks the fluid, but we always
use tin & antimony solder, not lead solder. Lead is dangerous and is absorbed by exposure to skin,
drinking water and when aerosolized in fumes, causes brain damage even in small quantities,,

Brass and Copper Soldering: Page 22

especially to children. Its dangerous for the plumber, too, as all solder emits fumes while being
heated. Plumbers are especially exposed.

Actually I was talking about projects like yours where there is no water involved. In the U.K. we are
allowed to use leaded solder on heating systems, but where the water must be potable, we have to
use lead free solder as, as you rightly point out, it is dangerous.

Nice instructable! I would like to ad a tip that might be helpful when doing multiple solderings on
one part: Get silver solder that silver smiths use, it comes in different "hardness", from a low
melting point up to a high, and one uses the high one first and when you solder the next piece the
first one doesn´t melt. Very neat. Most tecniques used when working on silver or gold can also be
used on copper and brass. Don´t let nasty comments get to you, if your way works, then it´s fine!

I like it. It definitely can get a little tricky trying to solder a small piece to another which has also
been attached with solder.

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