Florence Italy

The history of leather in Florence

lorence is well known as the birthplace of Renaissance
F art and humanist thinking, but it was the economic
power it wielded that made it possible for culture to
flourish. At the foundations of the city’s economic success
lay the “Arti” that worked kind of like unions in protecting
workers and the trade secrets that would make Florentine
craftsmanship (especially fabrics and leather) known
throughout Europe.

As you wander around Florence, it is impossible to miss the scent of all the leather jackets, bags and other products sold in
stores all around the city. Florence’s leather industry is a longstanding tradition that can be tracked back nearly a thousand
years.
.
Italy has worked in leather since the year 1000 when it was brought to Palermo by
the Saracens (the collective name for people in the Eastern Roman Empire, namely
Arab Muslims, and Persians). The industry has continued to grow and expand
throughout the land since then, with Tuscany being one of the main regions where it
operates. Its concentrated activity in the leather sector can be attributed to a number
of reasons:

Due to the fact that it was close to the Arno River, Santa Croce became a historic centre of leather tanneries during the 13th
century. To produce quality leather and tanning, a process whereby raw hides of the animals are transformed into leather
making them stable materials that may not break down, the river was necessary to transport goods and provided steady
supply of clean water. The tanning industry was one of the most unpleasant businesses, so it had been shut down at the edge
of town. You can see evidence of these old age manufacturers surviving street names in the east of Santa Croce, such as Via
delle Conce (tanning), Via dei Conciatori (tanners), and Corso Tintori (dyers).

Leather tanning in Italy has a rich social history dated from

the 8th century BC when it was founded by the Etruscan
civilization. The first people to explore and exploit
vegetable tanning techniques, the basic principles of
which are still in force today, were the Etruscans. Expert
footwear makers, who invented durable sandals that could
be used daily, were at the forefront of this rapid
development.
 As the leathers had been used in everything from transport to clothing and
warfare, their production became of great social importance during the Roman
period. During this period the art of vegetable tanning became a regulated
profession, and at that time complex leather production was beginning to take
root throughout the Roman Empire. The ruins of Pompeii, a ruined city in 79 AD
that was destroyed by the volcano eruption, have been discovered to be an
ancient tanning salon.

In 1282, the Arte dei Cuoiai (Leather Workers Guild) was born. It was one of many
professional guilds in Florence (others were present in developed cities like London),
secular institutions that protected trade secrets and enforced strict quality
standards. This has helped to maintain a high level of competition for the city's
leather industry at international level. Today, renowned leather craftsmen still
operate along the banks of the river Arno from Florence to Pisa.

At the beginning of the 20th century, a selection of now leading fashion houses began their commercial lives as leather goods
stores, including Prada (1913), Gucci (1921) and Ferragamo (1927). The Italian leather sector was able to gain a solid position
and profitability in the ensuing decades thanks to demand for its products.

The Genuine Italy Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium played an important role to preserve the tradition of Tuscan
vegetable tanned leathers, during today's times. A philosophy based on time-honored expertise, craftsmanship and
environmental responsibility has been shared by twenty tanneries in the organization. Some of the most beautiful leather in
the world continues to be produced by tanneries.

Summary

Italy's tanneries stay at the cutting edge of

leather production, thanks to their use of
techniques that have been developed
centuries ago and a commitment to
technical innovation. These factors,
coupled with the strict national rules
relating to the industry, ensure that Italian
leather remains a highly desirable
commodity in particular for its full grain and
vegetable tanned variety.

- YASMIEN DIANNE T. ESQUIVEL