ASSIGNMENT #4

NAME: FIONA LUZILLE A. VISCAYA

SECTION: BSCE-1B

ACRYLIC WATER-BASED PAINT

TOOLS NEEDED
Rags
Cleaning Agent (Like Rubbing Alcohol or TSD)
Sandpaper
Paint Stripper
Putty Knife
Acrylic Paint
Water-Based Primer (For The Type of Wall Material)
Paint Roller
Drop cloth
A Sealant or Clear Topcoat
Painter’s Tape

PROCEDURES
1. PREPARE YOUR WORKSPACE

First, prep your workspace. The result of a paint job might look attractive and clean, but
the process is anything but. The process gets messy so prepare your workspace to handle
that mess unless you want to spend the next few hours cleaning up.
To prep your workspace, place a large drop sheet or drop cloth on the floor and use a
tape to hold the sheet. So, the dust and spills that come off the wall will land on the drop
sheet instead of the floor. This protects your floors from any damage.
Also, everything in the workplace should be covered or removed.

2. CLEAN THE WALL

Regardless of its condition, the wall should be cleaned. They hide dust nibs and grease
well, so even if it doesn’t look dirty, it probably is. So, clean it with a clean rag.
For stubborn stains, use warm soapy water and a soft brush, or rubbing alcohol to get them
off. When the surface is clean, leave it to dry.
 ASSIGNMENT #4
NAME: FIONA LUZILLE A. VISCAYA
SECTION: BSCE-1B

3. STRIP OFF THE EXISTING FINISH

If the surface isn’t painted or has a water-based finish, skip this step.

If the surface is finished with oil-based paint or sealant, you must remove the
existing finish first. That’s because an old-based finish won’t allow the paint to
penetrate its coating, and will prevent it to stick.

To do so:

Use a scraper (metallic) to scrape as much paint as you can.

Apply a coat of chemical-based paint stripper over the surface.
Wait 15 minutes.
Use a scraper to remove the stripping compound (the finish will come off too).
You can also use mineral spirits, paint thinner, and chemical-based paint strippers
to remove an oil-based finish. To remove a water-based finish, use rubbing
alcohol, white vinegar, or warm water mixed with soap.

If you don’t want to remove the existing finish, you must sand the surface and
apply a coat of stain-blocking primer. However, the finish will be too thick, so it’s
best to remove it.

4. SAND THE WALL

After removing the old finish, sand the walls using sandpaper or a sander. For rough walls,
use coarse-grit sandpaper (80-100 grit), for fine walls, use fine-grit sandpaper (180-grit+).
Sanding evens out the grain, especially on wooden surfaces, and removes imperfections from
it.

5. APPLY TWO COATS OF PRIMER

A primer coating will cover imperfections on the surface, and provide a textured layer for
the next coating to stick to. It also seals tiny pores and holes that the surface may have.

Apply two coats of stain-blocking primer over the wall. Wait until one coat dries before
applying the other.

6. APPLY ACRYLIC PAINT

Once the primer dries, you can apply the acrylic paint. To apply it, use a roller or sprayer.
For small surfaces, you can also use a brush.

You need to apply 2-3 coats of paint. Wait until one coat dries before applying the next
one. It takes acrylic 2 hours to dry enough for a re-coat. However, its dry time depends on
the thickness of the coat and room temperature.
 ASSIGNMENT #4
NAME: FIONA LUZILLE A. VISCAYA
SECTION: BSCE-1B

7. SEAL THE FINISH

After the final coating fully dries (cures), seal the finish with a sealant. The
sealant will produce a glossy transparent layer over it and protect the finish from
moisture, water, and scratches. You can use polyurethane or spar varnish for this.

AUTOMOTIVE LACQUER
HARDENERS AND THINNERS
Most automotive lacquers still operate using traditional two-pack systems that require a
compatible hardener and thinner to establish fast drying times and effective flow from a
professional-standard spray gun. Generally, most two-pack clear automotive coverings are
mixed at a ratio of two parts lacquer to one part of hardener. Once mixed, up to 10 percent of
thinner can be added to establish good flow. Always ask for a technical data sheet when
purchasing automotive lacquer so you are fully aware of the correct mixing ratio.

PREPARATION
Before applying automotive lacquer, ensure that base colors have fully cured to prevent
the risk of chemical reactions. Use a paint strainer while adding lacquer to the spray gun to
rid the mixed product of any pieces of fiber, dirt, or grit. This will help produce a clean finish
that requires little in way of polishing or dirt removal once a vehicle has been painted.

Always run a tack cloth over the surface of the base color before applying automotive
lacquer. This will remove any foreign bodies from the surface of the painted panel as well as
ridding the base color of any metallic particles that may cause a paint halo if left unattended.

APPLICATION
Always spray vertical panels from the bottom, working your way to the top in a rhythmic
fashion, making sure that each application crosses the previous one by approximately two
inches. Horizontal panels, such as a hood, should be painted from one side to the other. Never
start in the middle as dry edges will form before you have the chance to apply automotive
lacquer to all areas of the panel.

Always apply the first coat lightly. This will effectively form a grip coat that the second
coat can adhere to without sagging or running. A coat of around 50 percent of the density of
the second coat is recommended. The second coat can be applied fully but try not to lay it on
to the panels too heavily. Automotive lacquer has a tendency to level out to a flat finish and
excess material will, once again, result in runs or sags.
 ASSIGNMENT #4
NAME: FIONA LUZILLE A. VISCAYA
SECTION: BSCE-1B

ENAMEL
ON METAL
1. PREPARE THE SURFACE

You need to prepare the metal surface for applying enamel paint and remove rust and
scales from the surface by scraping them. You should clean dust and other unwanted stuff
from the metal surface. It will ensure that the enamel paint can be applied in an even
layer.

2. APPLY PRIMER

Before applying enamel paint on metal, you need to coat the surface with a good
quality primer. This unique product will ensure that the topcoat can smoothly be applied
on the surface. Choose the shade of the primer according to the colour you have chosen
for your metal surface. Using a darker undertone of primer than the enamel will make
your metal surface look clumsy.

3. CHOOSE A BRUSH

A good brush is required to apply enamel paint on metal. The right brush is required
to achieve the finish you are looking for. A premium quality brush should be used to apply
each stroke uniformly. You need to ensure that the tip of your brush is properly drenched
in colour to apply the paint correctly. The brush strokes should not be visible when the
undercoat of the paint dries up.

4. USE A SANDPAPER

You have to scrape the metal surface once again with sandpaper. Any dust from the
metal surface needs to be removed if you want a smooth finish. Dust on your metal
surface can make the enamel paint look cakey and uneven.

5. USE PAINTER'S TAPE

Suppose you are in the mood to have some fun with different enamel paints, use
painter's tape. You might decide not to paint some portions of the metal surface. In that
case, you will have to stick painter's tape on the areas you don't want to paint. It will
ensure that the areas you don't want to paint remain clean.
 ASSIGNMENT #4
NAME: FIONA LUZILLE A. VISCAYA
SECTION: BSCE-1B

6. APPLY THE FIRST COAT

Apply the first coat of enamel paint to your metal surface. The first coat should
always be light. It will help create a heavy base on which you can apply enamel paint for
the second or third time.

7. GET READY FOR THE NEXT COAT

You should apply the subsequent coats of paint only after the previous layer dries
completely. Otherwise, you might end up smudging the paint.

8. PEEL OFF THE TAPES

If you have stuck tapes on the metal surface, you should gently remove the tapes
before the paint dries out. Removing the tape after the paint dries out might chip some
off the painted surface.