Application of Dyes According to Fiber Characteristics | Names of Different Dyes and Their

Application

There are different types of dyes for dyeing textile goods. These dyes have different nature in fiber. It
depends on fiber characteristics. Application of dyes in different fibers are given below:

Basic Dyes

Basic dyes are called so since they are salts of organic bases. Basic dyes are also called cationic dyes
because in solution the basic dye molecule ionizes, causing its colored component to become an action
of positively charged radical. Basic dyes are used for dyeing wool, silk, and acrylic and mod-acrylic fibres.
Properties of Basic Dyes

1. The outstanding characteristics of the basic are brilliance and intensity of their colors.

2. The bright colors achieved from basic dyes do not usually occur with other dye classes.

3. Many of the basic dyes are sparingly soluble in water.

4. The addition of glacial acetic acid helps to dissolve the basic dye quickly in water.

5. Basic dyes are readily soluble in alcohol or mentholated spirit.

6. The basic dyes are poor fastness to light and vary with regard to washing fastness from poor to
moderate.

7. An important property of basic dyes is that they will combine with tannic acid to form an insoluble
compound provided mineral acid is absent.

8. The wet fastness of the basic dyes on protein fibres can also be improved by back tanning. This
consists of after treating the dyed material with tannic acid in order to form the insoluble complex
thereby reducing the tendency to migrate.

9. The basic dyestuff will combine with direct or sulphur or some acid dyestuffs. So they cannot be used
together in the same bath. But basic dyestuffs are used in after treating cotton or other materials dyed
with direct colors. Here the direct dyestuff acts as mordant.

10. When treated with a reducing agent most of the basic dyes get converted into their colors less leuco
compounds, return to their original color by oxidizing agents or even by exposure to air.

11. Basic dyes can be removed from the material by boiling it with dilute acetic acid or hydrochloric acid.

12. Basic dyes are used for woolen goods when particularly bright shades are required which cannot be
obtained with an acid dyes.

13. Basic dyes do not have affinity for cellulosic fibres like cotton. The use of basic dyes on cotton
involves the troublesome process of mandating with tannic acid. But, sometimes, bright shades are
demanded on cotton which can only be obtained with them.

14. Special cationic dyes are available for dyeing acrylic fibres.

15. Basic dyes are also used for making inks, typewriter ribbons and dyeing leather
What is Pigment Dyeing? | Pigment Dyeing Process | Process Flow Diagram for Pigment
Garment Dyeing Process

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Pigment Dyeing

Pigment dyeing is not really "dyeing" in it's truest form because the pigments stick on the fabric with the
help of binders.. Pigments are insoluble in water. They exist in the form of finely ground molecules,
milled for garment dyeing purposes into a paste. When anionic dispersing agents are added, a slightly
negative charge is present, thus the foundation for pigment dyeing is born.

When a positively charged cationic pre-treat is added to the fiber a magnetic bond is formed. The
process is complete when a cationic binder is added to "lock" the pigment into place.In pigment dyeing
no actual chemical reaction takes place between the dye and the fabric.

The pigment dyeing process is generally a three step process such as:

1.Cationisation of the Fabric

Or giving electric charge to the fabric by a powerful cationic pretreatment.

Pigment dyeing is an electrical process whereby the goods to be dyed are given an electrical charge
opposite that of the pigment. When the pigment is added to the bath, the opposite electrical charges
attract each other, much like the north and the south poles of two magnets. Because of the electrical
nature of the process.

A typical recipe for cationizing Step

• Cationic Imparting Agent

• Wetter

• Acetic Acid for pH control

The cationic agent is applied with a wetting agent and acetic acid onto the fabric in the batch or
commercial dyeing machine. After a period of time, the fabric is rinsed.

2. Pigment Exhaustion on the Fabric

The pigments are first mixed with water and a dispersing agent that imparts an anionic charge to the
pigments. This solution is added gradually to the dyeing machine. The temperature of the bath is slowly
increased and the machine is held at the dyeing temperature for up to 20 minutes. The fabric is held at
an elevated temperature to increase the adsorption of the pigments.

A typical recipe for this step

• Pigment colorants

• Dispersing agent

3. Binder Application

A binder used in the exhaust pigment dyeing procedure for fixing pigment colors.Binders are commonly
acrylic polymers with nonionic and cationic nature. It improves crock and wash fastness.After the
pigment is exhausted , the binder is fed into the dyeing machine and exhausted onto the fabric over a
period of time. Acetic acid is added to the bath, which facilitates binder polymerization, then the fabric
is rinsed, the dyeing machine is drained, and the fabric is extracted.

Advantages of Pigment Dyeing

1.Its applicable to a wide range of textiles and wide gamut of colors available. Some brilliant fluorescent
pigments are available for special applications and fashion items.

2.The process of pigment dyeing can also be relatively cheap.

3.The process chemicals are less toxic , environmentally friendly and least polluting.

4.The color fades with the repeated use , just like denims.

Limitations of Pigment Dyeing

1. Color fading could be a problem if not desired, and can only be kept intact with further chemical
treatments.

2. The abrasion resistance and hand could be unsatisfactory depending upon the pigment, binder and
softener used.

3.Dark and deep shades are better produced with other dyestuffs rather than pigments.

Pigment Dyeing Faults:

Listing Effects: It occurs along the width of fabric due to uneven pressure of padder rollers which cause
shade variation.

Tailing Effect: It occurs along the length of fabric due to changing concentration of pigment liquor . This
also causes shade variation.

Precaution of Pigment Dyeing:

1.The fabric to be dyed should not be alkaline.

2.Optical brightening agent should not be used because it may produce faulty shade.

3.Binder should not be allowed to form skein which ultimately give specky shade.

Advantages of Pigment Dyeing:

1. Applicable to natural and synthetic fiber.

2. Wide range of color can be produced.

3. Can be used for dope dyeing for filament yarn.

4. Easy applicable.

5. Less expensive.

6. No washing or rinsing is required after printing.

7. Speedy and fast process.

8.Less water consumption.

Disadvantages of Pigment Dyeing:

1. Not controllable for the binder film.

2. Use of solvent like kerosene, spirit etc can produce problems like flammability, odor, pollution etc.

3. The jumping up of equipment and air and water pollution in observed.

4. Rubbing fastness is average.

5. Bad fabric and aesthetic feeling.

Theory of Dyeing | Stage/Steps of The Dyeing | Physico-Chemical Aspect of the Dyeing

Process

Physico-Chemical Aspect of the Dyeing Process:

Physico-chemical aspect of the dyeing process is one kind of system or way which shows how to
a dye penetrates or enter into the fiber. It also describes how many process and time a dye
molecules follow to enter completely onto the fiber.

Successive Stage in the Dyeing:

Dye dispersed in the dye bath

↓↑(Convective diffusion)

Dye in the diffusion layer(boundary layer)

↓↑ (Molecular diffusion)

Dye in the electrical double layer

↓↑ (Adsorption)

Dye absorbed on the fiber surface

↓↑ (Diffusion)

Dye diffused in the fiber

↓↑ (Fixation)

Dye physically or chemically bond in the fiber

The dyeing process is essentially a distribution process. The dye is distributed over at least two phase
systems, the dye bath and textile materials. When equilibrium dyeing is reached, the following
subsidiary equilibrium is established.
1. Dye Dispersed in the Dye Bath:

Most of the dyes in solution are in molecular and partially ionized state or exist in the form of ionic
micells.

2. Dye in the Diffusion Layer:

When a substrate is brought into a dye bath, a concentration gradient is created which will-make the
dye molecules move or diffuse to the fiber. The dye which approaches the fiber surface must eventually
diffuse through a thin liquid layer, the so-called diffusion layer, towards or onto the fiber surface.

3. Dye in the Electrical Double Layer:

All textile fibers when immersed in water or aqueous solution, acquire an electrical potential after
referred to as Beta potential. At the fiber surface the dye molecules must pass the electrical double
layer, consists of non-solvated anions(mostly) and solvated cat ions. These positive and negative ions try
to approach the fiber surface as close as possible. This layer is about 1nm thin.

4. Dye Absorbed on the Fiber Surface:

The dye molecules reach the fiber surface ( and the first layer of the fiber ). This dye take-up at the fiber
surface (absorption) occurs very rapidly and leads to a reduction of dye molecules in the immediate
vicinity of this surface.

5. Dye Diffused in the Fiber:

After absorption, dye diffused in the fiber. Owing to the high temperature , there is always an
abundance of dye stuff molecules in the vicinity of the fiber and agitation has little effect upon the time
of half dyeing.

6. Dye Physically or Chemically Bond in the Fiber:

The last step of dyeing is fixation. In case of reactive dyes, the fixation is one-way. Because here dye
molecules become attached to the fiber polymer by strong co-valent bonds. In case of all other dyes this
fixation is two ways. Because they are fixed with fiber by weak hydrogen or salt linkage.

The following factors are responsible for the anchoring of the dye molecules to the fiber:

1.Salt linkage/ionic bonds for protein fibers.

2.Co-ordination linkage

3.Hydrogen bonds

4.Co-valent bonds ; for cellulose fibers

5.Physical forces

6.Dispersion forces.

History of Reactive Dyes

Reactive dyes first appeared commercially in 1956, after their invention in 1954 by Rattee and Stephens
at the Imperial Chemical Industries Dyestuffs Division site in Blackley, Manchester, United Kingdom.

Reactive dyeing is now the most important method for the coloration of cellulosic fibres. Reactive dyes
can also be applied on wool and nylon; in the latter case they are applied under weakly acidic
conditions. Reactive dyes have a low utilization degree compared to other types of dyestuff, since the
functional group also bonds to water, creating hydrolysis of Reactive Dye.

Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Cotton is
made of cellulose molecules which react with the dye .During reactive dyeing the H atom in the cellolose
molecule combines with the cl atom in the dyeing process and results in a bond. Trifunctional dyestuffs
also exist.

Uses of Reactive Dye

Reactive dyes are used to dye cellulosic fibres. The dyes contain a reactive group, either a
haloheterocycle or an activated double bond, that, when applied to a fibre in an alkaline dye bath, forms
a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fibre.