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Multi-Function Walking Stick - Converts to a Chair

by hpstoutharrow on September 25, 2009

Table of Contents

Multi-Function Walking Stick - Converts to a Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Multi-Function Walking Stick - Converts to a Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Staff Size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 2: Add the Copper Connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3: Drill Seat Pin Holes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4: Add Pivot Notches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 5: Sew the Canvas Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 6: Thread the Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 7: Assemble the Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 8: Form the Tripod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 9: Insert the Seat Pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 10: Seat Complete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 11: Seat in Action . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Intro: Multi-Function Walking Stick - Converts to a Chair
Wouldn't it be nice if your walking stick served double duty as a chair? This walking stick functions just as well as a stationary resting device as well as it does as a
mobility enabler.

Trying to find a place to rest on the trail can be a challenge; especially when the woods are wet.
Carrying a camp chair in your pack seems like an unnecessary luxury, however, if the hiking stick you were planning on carrying anyway could serve as a lounge chair,
you just might want to indulge.

This Instructable describes the steps for making a convertible walking stick with an accessory seat. At a height of 6 feet when fully assembled, the walking stick is really
more of a Hiking Staff however, the 3 piece design makes it easy to transport and allows it to convert into a seat.

But there's more...

This is the first in a series of Instructables demonstrating the versatility of this Hiking Staff. Subscribe if you don't want to miss the next two sequel Instructables:

- Decorative and functional copper shod finial staff ends with storage

- Staff-top provision for an illuminating torch

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 1: Staff Size
Walking Stick Material:
(3) 1” diameter hard wood dowels (each 2 feet in length). I used oak for this project.

1: Cut (3) three dowels 24 inches long. These will be referred to as the Upper Section, Lower Section & Middle Section.
Most of the new high tech walking sticks on the market today are the short (Trek) ski pole variety. Personally, I prefer a taller staff when hiking. For me, the trail challenge
is not so much the uphill incline, as it is the descent; especially while carrying a pack.

A grip near the top of a taller staff allows it to extend well downhill while the body remains upright during a descent.

The only negative I have found with a Hiking Staff is the inevitable accusation of sheep herding or the resemblance to Moses (which happens despite the lack
of beard credentials) .

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 2: Add the Copper Connectors
Connector Materials:
(2) 3/4" diameter sweat fitting to 1/2" threaded male copper plumbing fitting
(2) 3/4" diameter sweat fitting to 1/2" threaded female copper plumbing fitting

The outer diameter of the 3/4" sweat fitting matches the 1" diameter of the wood dowel. This creates a nice flush transition at the wood to copper interface.
(Be sure to use 3/4" sweat to 1/2" threaded reducer fitting. The diameter of 3/4" sweat to 3/4" threaded fitting will be too large to fit through the ring used to
assemble the seat.)

(1) Package of two part epoxy adhesive

- Brandname “JB Weld Epoxy” adhesive holds well on metal.
- Make sure to use the original JB Weld that requires 24 hours to cure.
- Do not use the quick cure (15 minute or less epoxies - including JB Weld Quick) as these
do not hold as well to metal

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
1: Use sand paper (or chisel, pocket knife, lath or beaver teeth) to reduce the diameter on one end of the Upper Section and Lower Section dowels to match the inside
contour of the female copper fittings. The dowel ends should insert to the bottom of the threads on the female fittings.

Both ends of the Middle Section dowel should be reduced to fit the male copper fitting. This dowel should insert all the way to the end of the male cooper fittings. (The
male fitting requires the dowel to have two step diameter reduction in order for the dowel to fit flush to the end of the fitting.)

Reference the last photo in this series.

2: Test fit the dowel in the copper fittings several times as you are reducing the dowel diameter. The dowel needs to press tightly into the fitting. Use a mallet to force the
fittings on (be careful to not damage the threads.)

Note: The fitting will ultimately have to be removed to apply the adhesive. This is where the wrench flats on the fitting come in handy. Use them to twist off the fitting.

3: Remove the fittings and “roughen-up” the inside of the fitting with something sharp (like the bent point of a nail or a file.) The deeper the gouges / scores on the inside
of the fitting the better the adhesive has something to grip onto.

4: Similarly,“roughen-up” the end of the wood dowel by making grooves to hold the adhesive.

5: Mix the adhesive per the package instructions. Protect the threads on the fitting with tape. Apply adhesive to the inside of the fittings, and the ends of the dowels. -
Make sure adhesive does not get on the threads.

6: Pound the fittings on the dowel ends and clean-up any adhesive that oozes out. Again, make sure the threads are free of adhesive.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 Image Notes
1. The Middle Section dowel is inserted to be flush to the threaded end of the male
fitting
2. The Upper and Lower Section dowels are inserted to the bottom of the threads
on the female fitting

Step 3: Drill Seat Pin Holes

Drill holes in the end of the dowels. This is required to accept the pins on the canvas seat.

1. Drill a 3/16" hole 2" deep into the center of the dowels at the fittings on the Upper Section and Lower Section .

2. Drill a hole in only one end of the Middle Section.

Image Notes
1. The Middle Section dowel is inserted to be flush to the threaded end of the male fitting
2. The Upper and Lower Section dowels are inserted to the bottom of the threads on the female fitting

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 4: Add Pivot Notches
Pivot Material:
(1) 2" inner diameter welded chrome ring. (Typically found in the hardware store near the chains.)

This is the Pivot Ring (reference the last photo in this series) it holds the center of the dowel sections allowing them to flare out.

Two notches are required In the center of each dowel section to accept the Pivot Ring.

1. Make the the first notch perpendicular, straight across the dowel. (I used a file to make the notch)

2. File the second notch at a 30 degree angle.

The notches should be about 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep.

the perpendicular notch is for the initial positioning of the dowels when they are loaded into the Pivot Ring. The angled notch accommodates the splayed position of the
legs when forming a tripod.

Image Notes Image Notes

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 1. 90 degree notch for loading the legs into the ring 1. 30 degree notch to angle the leg into a tripod

Step 5: Sew the Canvas Seat

Seat Materials:
(2) Pieces heavy canvas (approximately 14"x14")
Heavy duty Polyester thread

1: Cut two pieces of canvas into triangles (14" per side)

2: Sew the two pieces together along the three sides. Stop the sew lines about 2 inches short on each end
3: Turn the sewn together pieces of fabric inside-out through one of the openings at a corner of the triangle .
4: Fold over each edge of the triangle to a width of about 3/4 inch and sew. This will form a "sleeve" along each side of the triangle.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 6: Thread the Cable
Reinforcement Material:
1/8" Stainless Steel Cable (Approximately 24" in length)
(1) 1/8" Aluminum double Ferrule (reference last photo in this series)
(3) 2" long Stainless Steel Cotter Pins

1: Thread the cable through the "sleeves" in the seat fabric. The cable holds the top of the dowel sections in position preventing them from over splaying.

2: insert the ends of the cable into the ferrule and crimp. A 5lb sledge hammer worked well to compress the ferrule.

3: Open the three cotter pins and load over the cable at the tree corners of the triangle. These are the Seat Pins used to attach the seat fabric to the dowel sections.
(The open legs of the pin act like a spring to hold them in the dowel holes.)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 7: Assemble the Seat
Load the Upper Section, Lower Section and Middle Section through the Pivot Ring.

Make sure the ring is in the notch of each section as the next section is loaded.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 8: Form the Tripod
Rotate each dowel section in the same direction so that the Pivot ring aligns with the 30 degree notch in each dowel section.

The splayed dowels will form tripod legs.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 9: Insert the Seat Pins
Insert each of the three Seat Pins into the holes in the dowel sections

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 10: Seat Complete
This is the seat fully assembled, and ready to go...actually ready to stay.

I created a logo for our Boy Scout Troop using a graphics program and printed it out on iron-on transfer paper. (this paper is readily available at any office supply store.)
It bonded well to the cotton canvas fabric. (Remember that any iron-on transfer needs to be printed in reverse.)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Step 11: Seat in Action
The seat is sturdy enough to hold a decent sized adult. It is as comfortable as any tripod camp stool can be, but it serves its purpose well for a trail side break.

Now if only it reclined and had a foot rest....

Below you can see the Hiking Staff Seat in conjunction with the light weight Backpacking Table described in the following Instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Camp-Table-for-Backpacking/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
Related Instructables

How to Build a
Campfire by
stasterisk
How To Make A
Hiking Stick
Campfire by
Multi-Function Multi-function Multi-Function GPS Mount by
3leftturns lobo_pal
Walking Stick II Walking Stick III Walking Stick IV
- Storage - Torch Bearer - Grip Strap by
Compartment by by hpstoutharrow hpstoutharrow
hpstoutharrow

Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 72 comments

facklere says: Nov 21, 2010. 1:25 PM REPLY

Should the 24" cable length specification say 42"? You said to make the sides of the triangles 14", and 14x3=42.

facklere says: Nov 21, 2010. 6:33 PM REPLY

Never mind, I didn't take into consideration the loss during sewing.

jbrecken says: Oct 13, 2010. 5:26 PM REPLY

If you traded one of the male fittings on the middle section for the female on the bottom section, you'd be able to make a short stick from just the top and
bottom pieces.

Wazzupdoc says: Aug 19, 2010. 6:50 AM REPLY

Troop 5 is one lucky outfit! Love all three episodes. I did a variation on the traction end. I drilled a hole to accommodate the business end of an aluminum
arrow shaft. I then was able to thread in a field point for icy conditions and to get the point across ;) Great ibble

Data643 says: Aug 7, 2010. 4:04 PM REPLY

The seat is too small. I weigh 70 pounds and it's too small for me.

Data643 says: Aug 3, 2010. 9:30 AM REPLY

Mine works fine with the 3/4" - 3/4" pieces. I just have to insert the piece with the male ends first.

jrossetti says: May 23, 2010. 2:27 PM REPLY

The sections, when screwed together, don't screw flush; there is some threading exposed, correct?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 ThisIsIt says: Jun 12, 2010. 7:06 PM REPLY
That's what it looks like in all the photos I've seen, and further down this page someone else says theirs is like that too. I think as long as you pay
attention when fitting the couplers to the wood you should be able to avoid that. If not, just have to file down the couplers till they mate flush, and then fit
the wood.

ThisIsIt says: Jun 16, 2010. 7:15 AM REPLY

Upon finally finding some of the fittings to take a look at, there is no way to get them to not have a gap when screwed together. The threads on the
fittings are NPT, national pipe thread, which means they taper from smaller to larger as you thread the fitting in. The gap can not be helped...
However, you can sweat a piece of 1" copper pipe on to the fitting to cover the threads that are left exposed. Make a simple pattern on it and it should
look great. You can even size this cover so that when the two rods are threaded together, the flat spots on the fittings (where the wrench would go)
line up with each other and look even better.

ThisIsIt says: Jun 17, 2010. 6:15 PM REPLY

Correction, you can't fit 1" pipe over 3/4" threaded fittings. You can use a piece of a 1" coupler to cover the exposed threads. I would probably
sweat it on to the female portion, it mates up nicely.

ducttapehamster says: Jun 14, 2010. 12:15 PM REPLY

I think that a 16x16x16 triangle world work better because mine seems kinda small and hurts when you sit on it...

hpstoutharrow says: Jun 15, 2010. 7:19 PM REPLY

Just have to mind the splay angles of the legs. Given the 2' length of each segment a larger seat triangle would result in a splay angle greater than 30
degrees. The larger angle will transfer the load on the legs from less of a compressive load along the axis while increasing the bending stress on the legs
at the ring. Not saying it won't work but without compensating with longer segments the seat height would be lower and the legs may fail at the ring.

LoisLynn56 says: Mar 27, 2010. 3:18 PM REPLY

I ran into 2 little problems. First, my cable was not long enough to go around my triangle. Second, I am not able to figure out how to put 3 1" dowels into a
2" diameter ring. My kindly neighbor tried to help me with this project. After I went and got a longer cable, I'm still not able to get the 3 dowels into that 2"
ring. And the only rings I could find were brassed colored steel ones that I got at Hobby Lobby. I don't trust them to hold any weitght. I still think it's a really
cool idea, and I'd love to finish this project. Thanks!

Terrapathic says: May 20, 2010. 3:14 PM REPLY

I had similar problems, my long time hiking partner told me to just buy a Stikstool. If I can't get it to work I may buy one. I don't give up easily and I have a
friend that may be able to fabricate a ring for me. I may check with Tractor Supply for a ring.

LoisLynn56 says: May 20, 2010. 4:10 PM REPLY

Funny you reply today. Actually, my neighbor gave me back the completed thing yesterday. He weighs 190 and it holds him. The friend that sent
me the link for the thing in the first place went to her Lowe's and got the ring with no trouble. She lives in Everett, WA. He put off crimping the cable
because he hadn't read the instructions. It says to hammer the cable, not the connector. But, all is well. I've got the thing smack dab in the middle
of the living room, admiring it. LOL. Lynn

hpstoutharrow says: Mar 29, 2010. 4:06 PM REPLY

The notches in the center of each segment allow for all three dowels to fit into the 2" inner diameter ring.

Make sure you use a ring that has the ends welded together or, as you suspect, it won't hold enough weight.

Load the first dowel through the ring. Align the ring in the notch. Load the second dowel and make sure the ring is aligned in both notches. Next load
the third dowel.
Per the pictures below I tipped the third dowel up to allow the flared end of the fitting to pass through the ring. (make sure the female fitting is the last
one through the ring - it has a smaller flare on the end).

If you are still having trouble, try making the notches deeper in each dowel. You also can file down the flare on the female fitting so it doesn't have to be
"levered" through the ring.

Hope this helps.

Post a photo when you are done. I would like to see how it turns out. Especially the cloth seat part. I am not skilled at sewing and I'd like to see what
someone with sewing talent can do.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 LoisLynn56 says: Mar 29, 2010. 5:10 PM REPLY
Thank you ever so much. Don't we all just hate a project that gets shelved?
I hope Kindly Neighbor and I can finish this. What a hoot that would be. Thanks again.

Cyb3rt00th says: Apr 14, 2010. 4:33 PM REPLY

Super Awesome! Just got me an Alps Denali aluminium frame backpack for backpacking this summer. I plan on making one of these as soon as possible!
A+ :)

Duber says: Jan 28, 2010. 1:16 AM REPLY

ive noticed that you made two other staffs

is there a way to combine the funtions of all 3 staffs into one staff

and still have it be portable/easy to break down

hpstoutharrow says: Jan 29, 2010. 7:47 PM REPLY

Its only one staff! It just has different finial toppers (storage vs torch).

PastTheVoid says: Dec 22, 2009. 6:24 PM REPLY

Are you camera shy?

zascecs says: Dec 22, 2009. 5:56 PM REPLY

Great idea, I could use one of these for hiking. =)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 coops1387 says: Dec 17, 2009. 7:08 PM REPLY
very cool project. I stumbled upon the instructable and made one for my dad. The only thing is my copper fittings don't screw all the way together. No big
deal, but it looks more sleek when you can see no threads. Suggestions?

For the rope for the seat i bought some string from the hardware store and macrame'd a rope to go through the cotter pins and joined the two ends together
by doing anothe rset of macrame over the top of both. I also messed up and didn't read as in depth as i should and used 3/4 to 3/4 copper fittings instead of
the reduced thread size you recommended. To get around the ring not fitting over i had to dremel deeper cuts in each sections to accomodate for the larger
fitting passing through the ring.

thanks for the instructable

rallen71366 says: Dec 13, 2009. 4:01 PM REPLY

This is very beautiful, with a sweet steampunk feel. I feel another hiking staff coming upon me.

I've made a few staffs before, from red oak ("black jack oak" around here). I decorated them with copper inlay made from 12 & 14 gauge romex wire epoxied
in place. The inlays acted as a ruler with foot and inch markings, but I think it could be fun to do a metric one, also. I've seen one that was set up as a
balance scale: hang the object to be weighed on one end, and slide a loop up the staff until it's level. The location of the fulcrum indicates the weight (the
counter-weight is the body of the staff). You have to carefully calibrate the scale, but works a treat.

I've seen others that incorporated: range/height finder, flute, led lights in the head-piece and foot probe, concealed storage or blade, sundial, compass,
blowgun, martial arts weapons, etc...

Most of these were incorporated in a length of wood that was rather unwieldy, rustic, and fixed to their purpose. Much like a portrait on an unflattering
canvas. You have given us a great canvas to work on, now. A modular system of staff construction that doesn't need a freaking machine shop to use. I love
it!

Tim Temple says: Dec 7, 2009. 3:00 PM REPLY

A three-inch knife blade could be brazed onto a 3/16" rod two inches long. That would be a helpful addition.

d2j5 says: Nov 24, 2009. 4:32 PM REPLY

w00t thats awsome i like to make walking sticks as a hobby thanks for posting it!

daltonjcw says: Nov 20, 2009. 9:01 PM REPLY

is that troop 9 as in the national jamboree troop? also known as 2044 or 2017? that's my troop.

hpstoutharrow says: Nov 20, 2009. 9:26 PM REPLY

Look close. Two digits.

strangebike says: Nov 19, 2009. 8:38 AM REPLY

What a great project I love it and I'm sure to do something daft along these lines sooner rather then later. Where did you get the stainless ring from ?

hpstoutharrow says: Nov 19, 2009. 6:49 PM REPLY

I got the Chrome Plated steel, welded ring at the local hardware store. Sold near the chains and steel cable. In a pinch, search on-line for "welded
steel ring"

dawsonj says: Nov 16, 2009. 7:34 PM REPLY

ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssswwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeettttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

wiillii says: Nov 15, 2009. 8:31 AM REPLY

i need something like that thanks a lot

riverpirate says: Nov 11, 2009. 5:18 PM REPLY

Nice Job, I like the simplness. I have a "survival" staff that my dad made for me when I was wee ,that is tubing sections with storage inside each one. It
convervts to a seat but not as nice as yours.Mine uses a braided loop of para cord instead.He was a machinist and the bottom one is a flask for water or refill
of brandy for the rescue Bernard.Maybe you could use a hollow section for the seat ? Or how about canvas covers for the tips to keep dirt out?

Kinnishian says: Nov 12, 2009. 2:42 PM REPLY

That sounds awesome :), can you post some pictures if you have time? I would love to see how that worked out.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 riverpirate says: Nov 13, 2009. 9:27 AM REPLY
Ill put some together,but his really was not a easy one unless you play on a lathe,but I will work on an easier one out of ready available goods,also
im well bigger than I was then and I probally wouldnt trust it under my girth nowdays for a 150# or lighter it probally would still work and the flask only
holds about4oz's (1 round on the summit?) let me get out to the lab and play and I'll post somthing back.

RoosterSocks says: Nov 11, 2009. 10:44 PM REPLY

Love to see a picture of the one your dad made you, sounds fantastic !

happyluckyidiot says: Nov 12, 2009. 1:39 PM REPLY

Wow. Neat idea. Interesting comments on the steel wire alternatives. Have you thought about omitting it altogether? When I've seen this type of stool before
the seat is all fabric and the corners are sewn open pockets which the poles sit into. Does this make sense? It's hard to describe. For each corner cut a
triangle of fabric and sew the two sides which connect to the outer edge of the seat (you'll want to at least double stitch this for strength). This leaves the
third side open to take the pole.

hpstoutharrow says: Nov 12, 2009. 7:43 PM REPLY

Agree, Many good suggestions on alternatives to the steel cable. I like the chain dog leash idea mentioned earlier. The possibility of not having any
"hoop" structure you mention is tempting. I have seen something like that made from thick heavy leather. I was initially concerned about cloth stretch
(and my sewing abilities) so I took the belt and suspenders safe route.

Besides, I also thought the cable would act to hold the fabric taut for display as a flag without a breeze. (just like the flag on the moon). But that did not
work out as planned the sew pattern needs tweaking to keep the cable from wanting to fold over.

Ender3D says: Nov 12, 2009. 2:42 PM REPLY

LOVE IT!!

So much better then the one I was rolling around in my head. Never would have thought of using the copper fittings.

Brilliant!

jbicb3 says: Nov 12, 2009. 10:33 AM REPLY

Fantastic instructable! I wonder if adding the rubber feet from crutches, slit so they wrap around the cotter pin portion, might make the tops of the legs more
user friendly?

jsgraham says: Nov 12, 2009. 10:04 AM REPLY

Just a thought. Why not use 550-Paracord instead of the cable. It's light weight, and even strong enough to hold up my big behind. The point is, you would
be able to make the seat lighter, yet keep it's strength. Then you can carry it folded up in your back pocket or a side pocket on your pack.

pyrogoth says: Nov 12, 2009. 9:31 AM REPLY

ok i have to say, for something that seems so simple ... none had ever thought of this before (that i know of), so thats a great plus on your side! if i had this
while i was still a boyscout i might have had an easier time of toting around our huge flag up and down a mountain (lol).

so great idea!

Eagle Scout : Myles J. Troutt

Approved!

Smdmw says: Nov 12, 2009. 8:43 AM REPLY

Great Idea I'm making one to show the boys in my troop.

tinpusher says: Nov 12, 2009. 8:03 AM REPLY

Five Stars! Favorited and Subscribed!

Kiteman says: Nov 10, 2009. 11:40 AM REPLY

This is a great idea, but just one small question - where do the parts of the seat go when you are using it as a staff?

T3h_Muffinator says: Nov 10, 2009. 12:47 PM REPLY

Yeah!

It'd be really awesome if you could figure out how to store the canvas seat inside the staff while maintaining its integrity. Then you could use the ring as
an X holder (keys, water bottle, etc) and have no 'overhead' when carrying the staff.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/
 Kiteman says: Nov 10, 2009. 1:54 PM REPLY
I don't think it would work inside a wooden staff, but maybe a wrap-around or a pennant?

hpstoutharrow says: Nov 10, 2009. 3:08 PM REPLY

You guessed it... The original intent was to have the seat fabric attach to the staff like a flag. A boy scout troop is divided into smaller groups
called patrols. Each patrol has a flag that they design to represent their patrol they carry their flags to group activities. That was the intention
here (that is why the seat has the troop insignia). Ran into troubles with the steel cable (it distorts the cloth into a non-flag shape.) A true
seamstress could have done a better job of "patterning" the seat to prevent that (maybe on the next one). The second issue was attaching the
flag to the staff. I didn't have the heart to drill holes through the staff to use the cotter pins (and the cotter pins don't come off the seat readily. )

The one improvement I do want to make is to sew a small pocket with a velcro flap on the back side of the seat to store the Pivot Ring

Kiteman says: Nov 10, 2009. 3:13 PM REPLY

Maybe embed neodymium magnets in the staff to hold the pennant by attracting the cable or pins?

s0313098 says: Nov 12, 2009. 7:34 AM REPLY

Why not make another section of "hiking staff" from copper tubing? Sweat the fitting onto both ends to make is attach to the staff. Inside
the tubing you could put the seat and other items. When using as a seat, the copper tubing would be an extra piece. The copper tubing
could also be a staff topper, while still carrying the seat. As a topper the tubing could be shaped or formed to do all kinds of things.

Thanks for this really great idea.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Multi-Function-Walking-Stick-Converts-into-a-Cha/