QUALIFICATION : AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Remove and Tag Transmission System

Components
MODULE TITLE : Removing and Tagging Transmission
System Components
MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This unit covers the competence to remove
and tag transmission components

NOMINAL DURATION : 10 Hours

LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Prepare to remove and tag transmission components
2. Remove transmission system components
3. Tag transmission components
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Nature and scope of work requirements are identified and confirmed
2. OH&S requirements, including individual National / Local / Territory
regulatory requirements and personal protection needs are observed
throughout the work
3. Procedures and information such as workshop manuals and
specifications, and required tools and equipment, are sourced
4. Method options are analyzed and those most appropriate to the
circumstances are selected and prepared
5. Dangers associated working with the removal and tagging of
transmission components are observed.
6. Transmission components for removal are identified
7. Methods for the removal and tagging are implemented in accordance with
manufacturer / component supplier specifications
8. Components are removed without damage
9. Inspection of components is carried out
10. Report is processed in accordance with workplace procedures on
communication.
11. Tagging procedures are identified
12. Material requirements for tagging are identified and support equipment
is identified and prepared.
13. Components are tagged without damage.

LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1 Prepare to remove and tag

transmission components
Contents:
1. Auto repair safety rules.
Assessment Criteria
1. Nature and scope of work requirements are identified and confirmed
2. OH&S requirements, including individual National / Local / Territory
regulatory requirements and personal protection needs are observed
throughout the work
3. Procedures and information such as workshop manuals and
specifications, and required tools and equipment, are sourced
4. Method options are analyzed and those most appropriate to the
circumstances are selected and prepared
5. Dangers associated working with the removal and tagging of transmission
components are observed
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Workplace
2. Vehicle/Equipment
3. Tools and materials
4. Training materials (CBC,CBLM,)
Methodologies
 Discussion
 Modular self-paced
 Video presentation
 Power point presentation

Assessment Method:
1. Written
2. Demonstration with Oral questioning
 Information Sheet 6.1-1
Auto Repair Safety Rules
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Familiarize the safety rules when working on a vehicle.

When you’re repairing a car or doing basic maintenance, practice these

safety methods to avoid injury to yourself and damage to a automobile and to
be prepared in case of a mishap:
• Don’t smoke while you’re working on a vehicle.
• Never work on a vehicle unless the parking brake is on, the gearshift is in
Park or Neutral, and the engine is shut off (unless it has to be running for
you to do the work).
• Be sure that the parts of the engine you’re working on are cold so that you
don’t get burned.
• Never jack up a car unless the wheels are properly blocked.
• Use insulated tools for electrical work.
• Before using a wrench or ratchet on a part that seems to be stuck, make
sure that if it suddenly comes loose, your hand won’t hit anything. To
avoid the possibility of bruised knuckles, pull on wrenches rather than
push them whenever possible.
• Before working on a car, take off your rings, tie, long necklaces, and other
jewelry, and tie back long hair.
• If you’re using toxic chemicals such as coolant, cleaners, and the like,
keep them away from your mouth and eyes, wash your hands thoroughly
after using them, and either store them safely away from pets and children
or dispose of them in a way that’s safe for the environment.
• Know that gasoline is extremely dangerous to have around. Not only is it
toxic and flammable, but the vapor in an empty can is explosive enough to
take out a city block.
• Work in a well-ventilated area. If possible, work outdoors in your, your
backyard, or a parking lot. If you must work in a garage, be sure to keep
the garage door open and the vehicle as close to the door as possible.
• Keep fire extinguishers handy. Place one in a garage and one under the
front seat of a vehicle. (Be sure to secure it with a bracket that will prevent
it from rolling under the pedals.)
LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 2 REMOVE TRANSMISSION
SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Contents:
1. Transmission removal procedure.

Assessment Criteria
1. Transmission components for removal are identified
2. Methods for the removal and tagging are implemented in
accordance with manufacturer / component supplier
specifications
3. Components are removed without damage
4. Inspection of components is carried out
5. Report is processed in accordance with workplace procedures on
communication
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Workplace
2. Vehicle/Equipment
3. Tools and materials
4. Training materials (CBC,CBLM,)
Methodologies
 Discussion
 Modular self-paced
 Video presentation
 Power point presentation

Assessment Method:
1. Written
2. Demonstration with Oral questioning
 JOB SHEET 6.2-1
Title: Remove transmission

Performance Objective: Given the equipment and materials, you should be

able to remove a transmission following correct procedures.

Supplies/Materials : Cinder blocks or 4-by-4 inch wood blocks

 Plywood sheet 1/4-inch or thicker

Equipment
 Hydraulic Floor Jack
 Jack Stands
 Wrench Set
 Socket Set w/Extensions
 Screwdrivers
 Pliers
 Pry Bar
 Hammer
 Fluid Drain Pan
 Shop Rags
 Drop Light
 Small containers and a marker for organizing and marking nuts and
bolts
 An assistant to help lower the transmission once it is ready to come
out
 Can of Penetrating Lubricant (optional)
 Transmission Jack (optional)
Steps/Procedure:
Transmission removal procedure.
The job of removing and replacing an automatic transmission is not
tremendously difficult - it's just a matter of being prepared, being safe, and following
instructions. Once the transmission is removed from the vehicle, contact several
transmission repair shops and/or independent transmission technicians to obtain
rebuild quotes for a "bench" job.  "Bench" job is the terms used for a transmission
rebuild only.
If you are ready to get started just follow the steps below:
1. Park the vehicle on a flat concrete surface, put the shifter in Park, set the
emergency brake, pull the hood latch and then open the hood.
2. Remove the negative battery cable.  Move the cable end away from the battery
post.  On some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove the black plastic air intake
components.  Now, locate the transmission fluid dipstick - pull it out and set it
aside.  The dipstick tube (also called transmission oil filler tube) is secured to the
transmission or engine using a single nut or bolt.  If you can see this nut/bolt and it
is easily accessible, go ahead and remove the dipstick tube now.  If not, you can
remove it later from underneath.
Note: In many newer vehicles, whenever the battery is disconnected a radio code is
needed to get the stereo working again.  Oftentimes the radio code is written in the
vehicle Owner's Manual.  If you are unable to find the radio code in the Manual,
contact the service department of any auto dealership that sells your make vehicle
and ask for assistance.  Have your vehicle identification number (VIN) readily
available before contacting the dealership as they will need this number to provide
the radio code.
3. Before jacking the vehicle up, check to see if any of the top bell housing bolts
or starter bolts can be removed from the top.  If so, remove these bolts and place
them in an appropriately labeled container.  Now look closely at the engine and
transmission and remove, unplug or detach anything that connects the engine and
transmission to each other.  Primarily, these will be electrical connectors and various
brackets.
Note: When removing brackets, mark their locations or make a simple drawing
 showing their locations.  When disconnecting hoses and cables, make a drawing
showing how each one is routed.  Taking photos before disconnecting brackets, hoses
and cables should serve the same purpose, which is to make the installation of these
components easier and quicker.
Tip: It is best to place the nuts, bolts, washers, clamps, etc. in separate "marked"
containers as you remove them.  This is easier to do if you already have the
containers labeled before you begin.  Here are the containers/labels you'll need:
 Brackets and bracket bolts/nuts
 Driveshaft Bolts/U-Joint Bolts
 Fluid Pan Bolts, Shifter Linkage Nuts/Bolts/Clips,
 Cross Member Nuts/Bolts
 Transmission Mount Nuts/Bolts
 Transmission Oil Filler Tube Bracket Bolt or Nut,
 Starter Bolts, Exhaust and Exhaust Heat Shield
 Bolts/Nuts, Bell Housing Bolts, Flywheel Cover
 Plate Bolts, Torque Converter Bolts
Miscellaneous
4. Place a wheel chock or a piece of wood (2X4) behind one of the rear wheels.
Now, using a floor jack, lift the front of the vehicle and secure with jack stands. 
Although it is not absolutely necessary, lifting the rear of the vehicle makes the job a
little easier.
Note: When jacking up the vehicle, be sure to give yourself ample
room to work underneath.  Also, keep in mind that once the
transmission is removed and lowered to the floor, the vehicle
must be high enough off the floor to allow the transmission to be
slid out from underneath the vehicle.

5. Remove the driveshaft.  To do this, remove the 4 U-joint

bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential.  Then, using
a small pry bar or screwdriver, pry the driveshaft forward to
release it from the differential.  Now, pull the driveshaft out of the transmission and
set aside.  Place the U-joint bolts and hardware in an appropriately marked
container.
Tip: When pulling the driveshaft out of the transmission, be careful not to allow it to
fall hard to the floor.  Also, wrap tape around the universal joint caps to keep them
from falling off and the pins from falling out of the caps.
6. Locate and disconnect all bottom-side electrical connectors, hoses and cables
that are attached to the transmission.
Tip: Use colored markers to mark connectors and hoses for easy and correct
installation. Mark the connector and its respective plug in with the same color. Do
the same with vacuum hoses and any other parts that might be confusing during
installation.

7. Unbolt the two transmission oil cooler lines at the

transmission.  It is best to use a line wrench when
loosening and tightening cooler lines (if you have one
available).  When you pull the lines out, be careful not to
lose the thin metal washer.  The fittings will leak if these
washers are not replaced.
8.Remove the starter bolts and then the starter.
Tip: In most instances, it is not necessary to remove the
starter wiring.  Once the starter bolts are removed, simply
move the starter out and away from the bell housing just
far enough so that it does not interfere with removing the
transmission.  Use a piece of wire or a bungee cord to
secure the starter so that it does not hang by the starter
wiring.

9. Remove the torque converter bolts to flywheel bolts/nuts.  To gain access the
converter bolts, remove the inspection plate/cover located at the bottom front of the
bell housing.  The cover is normally made of a thin piece of metal and is held in place
by a few 10 or 12 millimeter bolts.  Once cover is removed, using a flashlight or
droplight, look inside the bell housing to locate the bolts/nuts holding the torque
converter to the flywheel/flex-plate.  You can only remove one bolt at a time before
having to rotate the engine to gain access to the next bolt/nut.  You can rotate the
engine in one of two ways;
Use a breaker bar and large socket to rotate the center harmonic balancer bolt
on the front of the engine or by leveraging a small pry bar or large screwdriver
between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing in such a way that allows you
to turn the flywheel in either direction.
Note: If you are unable to access the torque converter bolts after removing the
inspection plate cover then your vehicle may be one that requires the converter
nuts/bolts be removed through the starter opening in the bell housing

Note: Be absolutely certain you remove all the torque converter bolts/nuts or else the
converter will hang to the flywheel/flex-plate as you are trying to pull the
transmission back away from the engine to lower it to the floor.  This situation will
create a real mess and can be potentially dangerous.
Tip: Rotating the engine/flywheel by hand can be difficult.  Reducing the engine
compression by removing some or all of the spark plugs will make the job much
easier.
10. Now, place the hydraulic jack (or transmission jack if you have one) under the
transmission pan and raise slightly.  With the weight of the transmission resting on
the jack, remove the transmission mount bolts that attach the mount to the cross-
member.

11. Remove the cross member bolts and cross member and set aside.  If the
transmission mount, which should still be bolted to the transmission, will hinder the
removal and/or lowering of the transmission in any way, unbolt it from the
transmission and set it aside now.
12. Remove all but one bell housing bolt. 
The bolt you leave in should be one that
will be easy to remove when the time
comes.  To remove the top bell housing
bolts, lower the transmission jack so that
the rear of the transmission drops down
and away from the undercarriage of the
vehicle.  This will increase the work space
on the top side of the transmission
enabling you to use a ratchet and long
extension to remove the upper bell housing
bolts.

Note: When lowering the transmission in

order to give you the work space needed to
remove the top bell housing bolts, the
weight of the transmission still needs to be supported by the jack.  If the jack is
lowered completely, the engine will tilt severely on its mounts, possible breaking or
weakening them.
Tip: Some hydraulic floor jacks are very sensitive when lowering and can drop
suddenly.  For added safety, place a jack stand directly under the rear of the
transmission to serve as a hard stop.
13. Before removing the last bell housing bolt, check to make sure nothing is
connected or bolted to the transmission that would interfere with removing it and
lowering it to the floor.  Now, remove the final bell housing bolt.  With the help of an
assistant, hold the transmission steady on the jack and move the jack back and away
from the engine just slightly so that the transmission separates from the engine -
then slowly lower the jack.  When the jack is fully lowered, carefully slide the
transmission off the jack and then slide it out from underneath the vehicle.
Once the transmission is separated from the engine, there is nothing holding
the torque converter to the transmission.  Therefore, it is crucial that the
transmission remain level (or slightly titled down in the rear) while being lowered to
the floor.  If it is allowed to tilt forward, the converter may slide out of the
transmission and fall hard to the floor.  The converter is heavy and filled with fluid –
if it falls, it could injure you or your assistant.  The converter could also be damaged
and it will surely create a huge mess.
14. Once the transmission is moved out from underneath the vehicle, pull the torque
converter out of the transmission and drain the fluid into a catch pan.
Note: The fluid will need to be drained from the converter regardless of whether you
plan to reuse it or replacing it.  In order to reuse it, you will need to drain all the old
from the converter.  If you plan to replace the torque converter with a new or rebuilt
converter, your converter must be drained of the fluid in order to use it as a core and
to receive the core fee.

LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3 TAG TRANSMISISON

COMPONENTS
Contents:
1. The transmission diagram of parts.

Assessment Criteria
1. Tagging procedures are identified
2. Material requirements for tagging are identified and support
equipment is identified and prepared
3. Components are tagged without damage
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Workplace
2. Vehicle/Equipment
3. Tools and materials
4. Training materials (CBC,CBLM,)
Methodologies
 Discussion
 Modular self-paced
 Video presentation
 Power point presentation

Assessment Method:
1. Written
2. Demonstration with Oral questioning
 Information Sheet 6.3-1
The Transmission Diagram

This diagram shows the sequence on how a certain transmission is

arranged after overhauling process. It is very important to familiarize the
proper order of the parts in order to organize the service conducted for
the transmission.
The transmission parts and/or components to be tagged

Input shafts - which are usually located in front

of the transmission.

Counter gear assembly – This integral part gives a

counter clockwise motion and submits to the speed
gears.

Set of bearings– are of different types,

and sizes but have the same functions. (E.g.
cone and roller needle or stick type, ball
bearing)

Reverse gear - gives backward

movement of the vehicle when shifted.

First speed gear – a gear that provide lowest forward

motion of the vehicle when shifted.

Second speed gear– a gear that provides higher forward

ratio than the first gear.

Third speed gear – one of the driven gears that provide higher speed ratio.

Drain plug – is used as a lock so that gear oil will hold inside the case.
This can be loosen to drain used gear oil when conducting a change oil

Set of gasket – these materials are usually made of rubber and used as a
sealing device to prevent leaking of gear oil.

Bell housing – an external part of transmission that in-

houses the clutch unit and provide a solid contact to the
engine. Also known as clutch housing.

Synchronizer hub – A component splined to the output shaft

of the transmission. It provides torque to the shaft when a
certain gear is shifted.
Synchronizer sleeve – A device used to lock a locking gear during
shifting action. It connects the locking gear to the shaft.

Synchronizer ring – A device used to synchronize two moving parts

such as the sleeve and a rotating gear. They prevent gear clash during
shifting.

Synchronizer spring - a spring that locks the hub key in place which
provide a slight forward force against the key.

Hub key – A locking key that butt

against the synchronizer ring and push
it toward a gear.

Shift fork – this device moves the sleeve which then

locks the selected gears to the transmission output
shaft.

Interlock shuttle – this lock are used to allow only a specific shift rail
for that gear can move.

Gearshift lever–a lever connected to the transmission

via linkage or cables and mounted on the floor,
dashboard, or steering column. Moving the lever
forward, backward, left, and right into specific
positions selects particular gears.

Transmission main shaft – a shaft

where forward gears including reverse are
assembled on it. These gears are floated
with a bearing to prevent friction between
the shaft.

Reverse switch – a switch that closes the reverse circuit and

lights the back-up light when shifted to reverse gear position.
Neutral switch – a mechanical operated switch installed in
the transmission. It closes a neutral circuit.

Dowel pins –these pins are installed and serve as a guide between
two parts installation such as bell housing to the engine.

Shift linkages – these are external

shift linkage used to operate the
desired gear to lock to the main-shaft.

Rubber/Dust boot – a rubber material used to protect

the gear shift lever from dust.
 Speedometer driven gear - a gear driven by the gear
(speedometer drive gear) in the output shaft. It is used to read
the speed of the vehicle when running.

Extension housing – one of the transmission housings

connected to the end of the transmission unit. Usually enclosed
some of the gears and the output shaft.

Gear box – it is the transmission case that has the

gears that transmit power.