Facial and Skin care Manual

Contra-indications

If the client has any of the following conditions the massage treatment should not be carried out.

 Swelling.
 Undiagnosed lumps and bumps.
 Skin disorders such as recent haemorrhaging and bruising.
 Recent scar tissue.
 Diabetes.
 Loss of skin sensation.
 Fractures or sprains.
 Defective circulation.

Contra indications restrict the treatment, for example the treatment may have to be adapted for the client eg if the client had a
small localised bruise, the area would need to be avoided.

 Non severe varicose veins.

 Cuts and abrasions.
 Heat rash.
 Sunburn.
 Warts.
 Hairy moles.
 Bruises.

Therapists must always inspect the area to be treated and check that there is no infection or disease present, which could
contra indicate the treatment.

Facial Equipment Checklist

A wide range of equipment and materials are required to carry out facial treatments.

Equipment

 Couch or chair – lie down and sit up positions.

 Trolley – to hold all required materials and equipment.
 Mobile Stool.
 Magnifying lamp – there are three types:
o floor standing
o wall standing
o trolley mounted.

Material
 Clean towels.
 Clean gown or towel drapes to protect the clients clothing.
 Head band.
 Spare pillows.
 Screens to ensure privacy.
 Disposable tissue roll – to protect the couch.
 Disposable wooden spatulas – to remove creams from their jars.
 Cotton wool.
 Tissues.
 Bowls.
 Mirror.
 Container for the client’s jewellery.
 Disposable spatulas.
 Skin cleansing preparations – the trolley should display facial products to suit all skin types.
 Surgical spirit – to cleanse the equipment.

1
  Disinfecting solution – to immerse small metal equipment.
 Bin – lined with disposable bin liner.

Treatment Procedure

TROLLEY SET UP FOR FACIAL TREATMENT

It is good practice to be set up for all your treatments at least 10 minutes before your clients are due
to arrive. . Equipment and products should be arranged in order of use, (if possible) on your trolley, so again this reminds
you of the procedure of the treatment. Metal equipment should be place in a bowl, with cotton wool soaked in surgical
spirit, to keep it sanitised. Only place bowls of water on a lower shelf of the trolley for safety. If you wish to have a paper
lined bowl for rubbish, place this on the lower shelf as well. Clean towels should be ready for your client and the couch
should be lined with couch roll. Use couch roll instead of towels whenever you are able for economy. You should only use
1- 2 towels per facial treatment.

Cleansing could be considered the most important part of a skin care routine. Throughout the day dirt, pollution, make-up
and dead skin cells build up and start to clog the skin. This build up must be removed effectively or the skin may develop
problems such as spots, excessive dryness, dehydration, premature ageing. Also, further treatments or products will not be
as effective if there is a barrier preventing their effects. A good cleanser will not strip the skin of it’s natural moisture or
leave it feeling taut and irritated. A cleanser can be either used on cotton wool or straight onto the face or mixed with water.
Use plenty of product and gentle stroking or circular movements should be used over the face so as not to drag the skin. Do
not put any pressure over the eyeball or area surrounding the eye.

TONING

Clients do not usually understand the reasons for toning the skin. Often they will just cleanse and then moisturise the skin.
You must explain that toning is actually part of the cleansing process - to finish off the cleansing routine a toner must be
used. A toner will remove excess cleanser, refresh the skin and close the pores helping to restore the acid balance of the
skin.

Beauty Therapists generally recommend a cleanser and toner of the same range if possible as these will have been designed
and formulated to work together.

A toning product is used on damp cotton wool and gently wiped over the face – if the cotton wool still has traces of dirt or
make-up the skin may need cleansing again. Within a facial treatment a toner may be used at various different stages ie.
after cleansing, after massage.

SKIN Analysis

The therapist carries out skin analysis after cleansing using a magnifying lamp. This is to establish if the client is suitable for
treatment and condition present on the skin.

There are four main skin types:

1. Normal

2. Dry

3. Oily

4. Combination

EXFOLIATION

After the initial cleanse and skin analysis, you can decide to carry out an exfoliation depending upon the skin type.
Remember not all skin types may be suited to exfoliation.

2
Heating or steaming the skin.

Hot towels or mittens are warmed with hot water and placed gently over the client’s face. Cool cotton wool pads can be
placed over the eyes for protection.

Self heating products are applied like a mask. They have special ingredients which cause a chemical reaction (heat) when
put on the skin.

Steaming the skin is the most effective heat treatment for most skin types. Steaming is carried out after an exfoliation
treatment. Steam can be used with ozone for an antibacterial, healing and drying effect.

PROCEDURE FOR STEAMING

1. Carry out cleanse, skin analysis, exfoliation as appropriate to skin type

2. Protect the client’s eyes with damp cotton wool pads

3. Explain the procedure to the client

4. Angle the steamer onto client’s face making sure the steam is not directed up their nose or into their eyes – the
steam should hit the chin and evenly spread over the face

5. Time steam for 2-10 minutes depending upon skin type:

Normal -

Oily –

Dry -

6. If ozone is to be used turn on nearer the end of the treatment for about 2-3 minutes and then turn off

EXTRACTION

Extraction of blackheads (comedones) should only be carried out after steaming when the skin has been softened and the
pores opened.

FACIAL MASSAGE

3
The facial massage is the most relaxing part of the facial and generally clients will prefer not to talk during this stage. Make
sure that the client realises that they are not under pressure to talk to you! The facial massage is performed over the chest,
neck and face area and sometimes the scalp can be incorporated. There are specialist movements based on the Swedish
technique of massage that will have different effects on the skin, underlying muscles, nerves and blood vessels.

Massage mediums are either a cream or oil. A cream usually has an high oil content so it stays on the surface of the skin
rather than being absorbed. An oil can be used which will give a better ‘slip’ than a cream but can be messier. Specially
blended oils that contain essential oils are a luxurious alternative. Use vegetable based oils on the skin and not mineral oils
as these often cause allergies.

FACIAL MASSAGE PROCEDURE

1. Apply cream / oil in 4 positions.

2. Effleurage to neck, chest, shoulders, up neck.

3. Thumb kneading to trapezius.

4. Knuckling to pectoralis muscles and to trapezius.

5. Alternate, deep lifting from chest up neck.

6. Alternate scissor effleurage to jaw.

7. Deep effleurage to jaw and cheek.

8. Rolling up cheek.

9. Circles around eyes.

10. Deep effleurage to forehead.

11. Scissors friction to forehead.

12. Tapotement to whole face.

4
13. Jaw brace, forehead brace.

14. Repeat 1.

MASKS

A mask is carried out at the end of a facial after a facial massage. The massage medium must be removed thoroughly with
water before applying the mask for maximum benefit. The main function of a mask is to reinforce a facial treatment through
a specific effect and as a ‘booster’ treatment within a facial. Masks can have many different effects depending upon the skin
type and condition you wish to treat.

MAIN TYPES OF MASK

Setting - clay

Non-setting - biological (fruit / herbs / plants)

Specialised - gel, latex

- wax

Prepare the mask ingredients for application using a sterile brush or spatula.

Apply the mixture neatly and evenly using long strokes with your mask brush. Some masks may be applied with a spatula.
Cover the neck and face evenly, avoiding the eyes and mouth.

Apply the mask quickly and evenly.

Apply dampened clean cotton wool pads.

When application is complete apply cool eye pads and ensure your client keeps warm by lifting the towel and/or blanket over
her shoulders.

Start timing the mask. Setting masks will start to dry out with the heat of the skin and the surrounding environment. These
are usually very beneficial for oilier skin types because of the drawing effect.

Do not apply the mask thickly, as this will be wasteful and harder to remove unless.

Although peel-off type masks do require a thicker border to enable the mask to be peeled off.

Remove the mask with warm water and mask sponges. Ensure all traces of mask have been removed.

Tone the skin with the appropriate toning lotion using dampened cotton wool, and blot dry with facial tissues.

Apply the appropriate moisturiser.

Remove the client’s headband.

Evaluate the treatment with the client.

5
Record the results on the client’s record card.

AFTERCARE / HOMECARE

You should not let your client leave the salon until you have given them aftercare and homecare. This is still part of the
facial treatment like the consultation at the beginning. When you have finished the facial routine, remove the headband and
tidy the client’s hair, give them a mirror to look at their skin

Contra-actions

The contra-actions that a client may experience are:

 Skin irritation – burning sensation which may be caused by facial products, in particular face masks.
 Sickness – which may be due to the increased circulation of the waste products, when carrying out the facial
massage treatment.
 Fainting – due to the blood pressure changing which is caused by the blood capillaries dilating.

If a client does suffer from any of the above contra indications you must:
 Ensure the room is well ventilated.
 Offer the client a drink of water.
 Remove the product immediately and apply a soothing skin care product.

If symptoms persist advise the client to seek medical advice.

Any reactions should always be noted down on the client’s record card so that any adverse reactions are noted for future
treatments.

The methods of sterilisation used in beauty therapy salons

Effective hygiene is necessary in the salon to prevent cross infection and secondary infection. Cross infection occurs through
micro-organisms that are contagious being transferred through personal contact, through touch or by contact with infected
equipment that has not been sterilised.

Secondary infection can occur as a result of the client having an open cut or wound and bacteria penetrating into the skin
therefore causing an infection, or by an injury caused during the treatment.

Sterilisation and sanitisation are methods used to destroy or minimise harmful micro-organisms that can cause infection.

Sterilisation
This is total destruction of all living micro-organisms.

Sanitisation

This is the destruction of some but not all micro-organisms.

Sterilisation and sanitisation techniques that are carried out in the beauty salons involve the use heat and also chemical
agents such as antiseptics, disinfectants and vapour fumigants.

UV Rays Cabinet, Barbicide container, Autoclave,

Heat: This is a very effective method of sterilising tools. It is created by the use of an autoclave. This is a piece of
equipment that heats water to a very high temperature – higher than boiling. It creates what is known as super-heated steam
and this is hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in salons. Doctors, dentists, etc use autoclaves. Small,
hand held, tools are put into the autoclave, it is sealed and the water inside it is brought to the required temperature. The
temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before
the tools are removed.

You must ensure that you have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use.
This is the main drawback of this method of sterilisation.

6
If you use this type of sterilisation methods then you must buy tools that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to
go into the autoclave.

Dry heat: This method of sterilisation is rarely used in salons. It is a method that uses an oven to create high temperatures.
Although bacteria are effectively killed by this method, tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an
extended time.

Radiation

UV light rays: This method of sterilisation uses Ultra Violet (UV) light rays to kill bacteria. Tools are cleaned then placed
into a UV cabinet and the rays sterilises only the surface areas that it touches. This means that you must turn the items so
that all surfaces are treated.

Many therapists tend to use the UV cabinet to store their tools in after they have been sterilised using other methods such as
the auto clave.

It is milder than a disinfectant and can therefore be used directly on the skin.

Chemicals: This method is often used in salons and is effective if used correctly. Tools must be washed before placing into
the chemical solution otherwise the dirt on them will contaminate the solution. The chemical must fully cover the item –
many therapists place their tools into a sterilising jar that is only ¾ full. The tools must be left in the chemical long enough
for it to do its job. This time varies, depending on the cleanliness of the item and the strength of the chemical solution, but it
can be as long as an hour. As with using an autoclave, this means that manicurist must have enough tools to allow for the
time to sterilise.

Disinfectants and antiseptics

If for some reason an object cannot be sterilised, it should be placed in a chemical disinfectant such as a quaternary
ammonium compounds or glutaraldehyde.

Antiseptic
This prevents the multiplication of micro-organisms, it does not kill all micro – organisms

Disinfectant
A disinfectant destroys some but not all micro-organisms If for some reason an object cannot be sterilised, they must be
wiped with surgical spirit and it be placed in a chemical disinfectant such as a quaternary ammonium compounds or
glutaraldehyde

Once implements have been removed from the disinfectant they must be rinsed in clean water to remove all traces of the
solution to avoid an allergic reaction occurring on the client’s skin.

The quickest method of sterilisation is cleaning with alcohol either by immersion or wiping over the exposed surface of the
implements with the alcohol before placing it in a dry steriliser. Alcohol wipes are easily used for this procedure.

Containers that are used for disinfecting should be washed out on a regular basis with hot soapy water and the disinfectant
should be discarded after one use as it will be unsterilised. All equipment must be washed first to remove surface debris, in
hot soapy water, rinse in plain ware, dry thoroughly, choose the correct method of sterilisation.

Antiseptic

This prevents the multiplication of micro-organisms; it does not kill all micro – organisms.

This is much milder than an antiseptic and can therefore be applied to the skin to cleanse at the beginning of the treatment,
but it does have limited effects.

Data Protection Act

The Data Protection Act is in place to protect client confidentiality.

 All information held must be kept in a secure place, whether held on a computer of record card.
 Must not be disclosed to a third party.
 Information held must be accurate.
 Information must be available for the person whom it is about to see at any time if they request to do so.
 The salon must be registered with the Data Protection Register if holding files on a computer.
 Any out of date information no longer required must be disposed of in a secure way (not just thrown into the dust
bin).

7
You must not divulge information about clients, whether that is personal details, service that has been provided or products
that have been purchased to a third party. The consequences of failing to keep client confidentiality would be, loss of clients,
bad reputation for the salon, client could sue, you would receive a warning may even loss your job.

Sample blank facial skin record card

Skin care record card

Name: DOB:
Address: Tel:

GP name & address: Date:

Contra indications: Details of CI’s

(GP referral):
Blood pressure Epilepsy

Diabetes Heart conditions

Skin diseases Eye disorders

Resent scar/op Inflammation

Client’s objectives:

Client’s homecare:

Skin analysis notes

8
Skin condition

Skin type

Treatment plan/needs/products
Cleansing / toning

Exfoliating

Massage medium

Moisturising

Steaming / extractions

Mask (type and setting / non-setting)

Specialized products

Modification to treatment (if any)

Other

Client signature:__________________ Therapist signature:_________________

9
Inspection and registration of premises

The local authority’s Environmental Health Department enforces the Health and Safety at Work Act. The environmental
health officer visits and inspects the premises. Any area of danger is identified by the inspector, and it is then the employer’s
responsibility to remove the danger within a stated period of time. If the employer fails to comply, this then can lead to
prosecution. The inspector has the authority to close the business until he or she is satisfied that all dangers to the public and
employees have been removed.

Code of Ethics

Members are obliged to uphold the dignity of the profession and shall conduct themselves in conformity with good taste and
professional decorum.

Members agree to act honourably towards their clients and fellow practitioners.

Members agree to maintain the confidentiality of their clients at all times.

Members must refrain from criticising the work of fellow practitioners.

Members must not undertake treatments which are beyond the scope of their professional training. Members who do not
hold a relevant medical qualification must advise clients to consult a medical practitioner in such cases.
Members must not treat any client for a condition which, to her knowledge, is at the time under the care of a medical
practitioner without the knowledge and consent of that practitioner. Members should enquire before treating a client for the
first time if the client is under the care of a medical practitioner.

Members must not give injections or prescribe pills, ointments or lotions which should be prescribed by a medical
practitioner.

Members must not engage in activities which are illegal or immoral. Members must not work in, or be associated with
establishments which offer services which are illegal or immoral.

10
Facial TREATMENT ASSESSMENT RECORD

Candidates must use this as evidence of treatments they have carried out with clients. This evidence will be used to
contribute towards assessment of units for certificate in Facial Treatment.

Candidate Name:…………………………………………………………………. Date:

………………………………………

Client Name…………………………

I would like to discuss and be assessed today.

Candidate Signature……………………………….. Assessors Signature………………….

I will cover the following ranges (circle)

11
1 Preparation: 5- Massage mediums are:
a) lighting
a) oil
b) heating
b) cream
c) ventilation
c) powder
d) general comfort & hygiene

e) Noise level, suitable music and

sound.

f) Privacy 6 - Massage techniques are:

a) effleurage

b) petrissage, e.g. kneading,

rolling, wringing

2. Clients are: c) tapotement body

a) Young to old
e.g. hacking, cupping, pounding
b) Nervous
d) vibration
c) Non- nervous
e) Friction

3 Consultation
a) client physical details 7 – Aftercare

b) Client expectations a) Rest

b) Postural exercise
c) Recent medical history c) Products

4. Outcomes

a) Relaxation & reduced muscle

tension

b) Lymphatic drainage

c) Stress relief

d) Sense of wellbeing.

Treatment details:

12
Can your client tell if she/he takes regular medication?

Yes □ No □ (please tick)

If yes – please could your client give details of the medication taken?

Detail products used at home for current face/ body care:

CONTRA-INDICATIONS

□ Skin disease □ Skin disorder □ High blood pressure □ Low blood pressure

□ Cuts/abrasions □ Swelling □ Bruising □ Recent scars

□ Loss of sensation □ Recent Surgery □ Recent fractures □ Pacemaker

□ Allergies □ Thrombosis □ Phlebitis □ Varicose veins

□ Metal plates/pins □ Sunburn □ Hypersensitive skin

Contra-actions during treatment: Action taken:

Treatment outcomes:

Give details of aftercare for treatments and products*:

13
Client Comment: We would welcome your comments on the treatment you have received today:

(please tick box)

Did you feel your treatment was professional? Yes □ No □

Did your therapist treat you with respect? Yes □ No □

Was the treatment explained clearly to you? Yes □ No □

Were your questions on treatments or products answered to your complete satisfaction?

Yes □ No □

Were you advised on retail products and future treatments Yes □ No □

Any other comments?

Client signature:…………………………………………………. .Date:

………………………………….

Candidate Feedback: (To be completed by Assessor)

Tick overall result: Competent □ Not yet competent □

Assessor feedback:

Assessor signature: Date:

Professional Indemnity Insurance

The Health and Safety (Display Screen Equipment) Regulations 1992

If you have an employee who is working with display screen equipment, such as a receptionist, you will need to pay for eye
tests given by an optician or doctor and special spectacles if required.

It is also the employer’s responsibility to provide information and training for display screen equipment users and ensure
there are regular breaks or a change of activity.

14
15