Scribd Logo
Upload

Welcome to Scribd!

  • Monerai

    Uploaded by

    Николай Муравский
    33 views50 pages

    Original Title

    monerai

    Copyright

    © © All Rights Reserved

    Available Formats

    PDF or read online from Scribd

    Did you find this document useful?

    Is this content inappropriate?

    Report this Document

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    Download as pdf
    33 views50 pages

    Monerai

    Uploaded by

    Николай Муравский

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    Download as pdf
    of 50
    monerai Index Aileron and Flap Assembly Bonding Techniques Canopy Assembly Construction - Manerai Control System Assembly FAA. Inspection . Frnishing and Painting . Flight Test Recommendations Power Pod Fuselage Truss Assembly ‘Gross Weight Rovison - Moneral Incidental Assemblies Introauchon (Monerai Power Pod Assembly Manual) Introduction Power Pod Maunt Assembly ‘Shell Assembly Specilivations ‘Specifications - Munerai Tall Boom Assembly taut Surtace Aasombly Test Flying Monerat Test Running Monerai 2-View Weight and Balance \woignt and Balance - Maneral Welding Notes Wing Assembly Copyright© 1979 Jobin T. Monnet Jr. 35 14 ay 3 10 a4 a et ett EW Introduction Congratulations, you have made your first step towards soaring into your future! Th jual is intended to aid you by offering a general outline of the procedures and alternatives In construction of MONERAI “S™. The methods described are by no means the “ultimate” or only way to do a particular jab, but reflect the exparionans of the author. The manual ‘should be augmented, for the inexperienced builder, with publications ‘on fabrication techniques available through the Experimental Aircratt Association. Membership in this organization is strongly advised, as well ag momporcnip in tho Soaring Society of America. Betore you begin construction, familiarize youirsalt with the plans and components. Note any corrections or additions tn the plans and mark the drawing sheets clearty to avoid confusion iater ‘Any deviations trom or modifications to the plans on structural components is considered the sole responsibility of the builder. Monnett Experimental Alrcraft will not comment on, nur provide eddilional analyaia on, modifications undertaken by the builder. Builders will he notified hy Monnett Experimental Aircraft of any authorized moditications or airworthiness directives on an immediate basis or through newsletters, Monnett Experimental Aircraft, Inc. reserves the right to amend the MONERAL plans specifications, and tanual as IL Leciren sincesnaty May this be an educational and pleasurable experience! MONERAI Specifications: Lenath Height . Area. ‘Span. Cod eeeeeeeeveree Cockpit Height Cockpit Width... Frontal Area... eesreeee Landing Gear .- Aspect Ratio Aitoil Emply 220 Ibs. Gross Weight ........... 450 Ibs. Wing Loading (Gross) ... 5.76 Ib./sq. ft Structural Limits (Gross). ‘+ or-8g. ‘Stall Speed (Clean) . . 40 m.p.n. Sinkwemeeetness «2.611, /sec./55 m.p.h. uD 28/1 at 60 m.p.n. VNE.. : + 120mpih. Vre . Wing Incidence - Tail Surface Travel Max. Note: Specifications may vary between individual MONERAI ‘Specitications subject to change without notice. Welding Note ‘Average weiding skills are required to bulld MONERAI. The F.A.A. prefers that the welding be done with Oxygen-Acetylene welding equipment. “Heli-Arc” is acceptable if the person welding Is very proficient. If you want to use “Heli-Arc”, it Is advisable to check with your local F.A.A., E.M.D.0., or G.A.D.0, office inspector before you start welding. Generally speaking, you will use a #1 welding tip for all of the tubing work. A #1 tip Is usually the smallest tip supplied with light duty or “aviation” style torch units. However, the sizes are not standard and will vary somewhat. Smaller tips are available from your dealer. (For instance, the Victor torch #1 tip is too hot so you would have to go to an “0” or even a “00” tip.) The only welding rod that is acceptable is #7. This is a general purpose Mild steel welding rod with a copper coating to prevent rust. Do not use Chrome-maly welding rod or rapidly cool any welds since both will produce very brittle walds. It Is poor practice to re-weld a joint to make it look better. This will reduce the strength of the Joint significantly. It you are apprehensive about welding Join # local E.A.A, chapter ard seek out some assistance from the members with bullding experience. Another good source of help are Adult Education courses at local high schools or Junior Colleges. Although the classes will not specifically cover aircraft welding, the general knowledge galned will be adaptable to your needs. You will never regret acquiring the akill of welding! When marking tubing for trimming or marking alignment points for wolded assemblies, use the silver colored pencil supplied. It has a Qrease base that will write on the oily tubing and show up well. even at high temperature. Fi. Fuselage Truss Assembly Tools Required: © Small tubing cutter © Left & right hand aviation snips * Hack saw Pliers ‘Small ball peen hammer Venus Paradise or Eagle silver colored pencil — Oxygen-Acetylene welding unit Build fuselage truss fixture as shown, Cut the 24” X 96” fixture base board. Mark the center line and former locations carefully - this will establish the fusclage alignment so double check your measurements. Cut and attach the fuselage formers and the two 3” X 27” boom alignment boards. ‘Temporarily attach the fixture to a level surface. Make sure all the formers are vertical “STATION E” 4) Cut the tubing for station “E". Note the two vertical 5/8 square tubes are tull length. The top horizontal tube is also one piece. The lower horizontal tube is cut in three (3) segments. Make sure the cuts are accurate and square. Use a Venus silver pencil to mark the tubing for the cuts. Since there nas nover beon a hack saw that can eut straight, be careful with the cuts. Note: A simple fixture may help you align station “E” for tack welding, Tack all the joints before finish welding. Some warping will take place when welding so double check the assembly when completa. A combination of heating the Joints to dull red and bending will help eliminate any warps. This section must be “true” as it becomes the backbone of the aitcratt - and alignment starts here! Add the 1/4 1D front boom mount bushings. It is easiest to use a piece tong welded in place, then cut out the center. This assures they will line up. en- vt8 fig’ aed (TEM? Foe MiCeMeH! Add rudder stops, motor mount bushings, and trim bellcrank bushings. Cap the open ends of the tubes with some .032 scrap Xmoly sheet. "GOD «058 WALL x MOLY TUBE Vz"L6. 2. REDO. IN-LINE. ze! Close TEP oF 5a, TUBE W/.033 THe. SCRAP Xe MOLY SHEET ~. or A BUSHING STOR STOCK sha. BPACES 7 AN 970-3 Fig. P- — + & So Iie (2. BUSHING STOCe 1° 6G. ON FAR SDE oF Tua F2. BUILDING THE BASIC TRUSS Place completed station "E” upside down in the fixture. Glamp it to the blocks if necessary (o make sure it remains vertical. Gut and bend the two 5/8” dia. keel tubes (for each side of wheel). It will be easiest to weld in the 5/8” dia. spreader tube off the fixture then heat the keel tube just forward of the spreader and bend them to meet the 1" dia, keel tube, The large keel tube must be fistmouthed and slightly flattened at the end to accept the two 6/8” dia. tubes. Hoat to red hot and use the ball peen to flatten to shape. Tack weld in place. (From now on tack weld everything before final welding.) Cut and tack the 5/8” dla. top longerons in place. Now you're ready to add the remaining tubes. When rough cutting a tube to fit, measure center line to center line of the tubes to be joined. Gut with the tubing cutter. Gareful planning will eliminate scrap! guna srariow 'E pr.08 70 ETAL OW ENTIRE FS. Rough cul all the remaining round tubes with a tube cutter. Mark fighmouth ends with the Venus or Eagle pencil and trim to fit with the land right hand aviation snips. The hall round tile-will help clean up the cuts. Gaps between the tubes should be 1/16” or less. Sometimes you'll miss - at no time should the gap exceed 1/8"! Take your time! ‘The rear boom mount bushing at station “K” are, best mads off of the fixture. The weld around the bushing to the washer should be completed and the bushing reamed before it is bolted on the fixture. Note: “All threaded” bolts are used to when you tack weld the tubes to the bushing you witl be able to remove the bolts even if the Bushing shrinks slightly « ‘a straight bait would be impossible to remove. Take the bolts out prior to final welding The main spar mount bushings can be welded in after the truss is removed from the fixture. Again the bushings should be welded in one piece with the centers cut out later. Carefully line up the axle mount bushing. ‘The YAW bar mount, vertical tubes at station “B", the tow hook mount, seat belt mount, and remaining bushings should be added after the basic truss is removed from the fixture and final welded. 45. Cut longerons areshown in “Fig. Q” and cap with .032 flat stock. Add all large dia. washers, trim, and brake cable mount bushings. Check the assembly for warping, (Almost unavoidable!) Stress relieve the. its by heating to a dull red with the torch. Let cool slowly! Do not quench a weld! (You don't want your fuselage to fall apart from brittle welds.) ur secrian our PETER WELING Me Feu “EPADED KagDaare 3 S28 pubs eae ALIGN MEN DOING AELING 132 “355 ACTER MEMOVNG TRUSS PROM ERE Control System Assembly Gut out all the Xmoly parts for the control system per the drawings. Dili tubrieation holes as shown. Weld subassemblies together. (All moving parts must have some clearance to avoid binding.) After welding the various assemblies carefully clean oul the slag on the |.D. of mating tubes, so there is no binding, Assembly bolt holes must be step drilled to assure a tight fit and minimize play in the controls. They must be drilled on assembly. Assemble the control components In the truss per assembly drawing. The slide tube mounts must be located and tacked in place with the flap and control stick on the truss. Check for smooth movement betore and after welding. Get the entire system up to the control mixer working smoothly before attaching the tall boom. (Work front to rear on the control system.) Note: Be careful not to weld around tha nylon fair leads because you can distort, melt, or even burn them up. Use temporary shims to align the fairlead ‘mounts while welding, then install the nylon fair leads to check operation. Use-temporery shims to-align-the-fairlead-mounte-while-welding,-thea instaltthe nylon fair leads-to-check operation. The optional independent tudder pedals are recommended for pilots 5°10” and above. REAR SPAR CARRY THROUGH... Cut out and file the flap drive horns, bearing supports, (full size template provided) and the remaining tubular sections . . . Weld the flap drive horns and splice tube to the two tubes that make up the tlap drive, Check tne angie of the pushrod hom to the drive horn. Drill the four bushing holes in the square rear spar carry-through. Install and weld the bushings. Note that the outer two bushings are welded flush with the rear face of the spar, this is to allow the rear spar fitting on the wing panels to fit flush against the rear spar carry-through Weld on the two bearing support brackets. Add the two 3/4” X .058 bearing tubes. You should use a length of 9/8" tubing to keep the two bearings in alignment when tacking the assembly. Remove the 8/8" tube before completing the welding or it will become a permanent part of the assembly! Weld the end caps to the square tube. Cut the two 1/4” I.D. bushings that will be welded to the fuselage truss for the rear spar carry-through. Bolt them to the rear spar carry-through with an All Threaded bolt and nut. Position the rear spar carry-through on the fuselage truss. Make sure It is vary level with the main longerons. Tack the mount bushings in place. Chock alignment again! Remove the rear spar earry-through and finish weld the mount bushings. Note: The center bolt connecting the two flap drive horn assemblies is Not installed until the final rigging of the control surfaces. Make the flap push rod, install, and check operation. Jrvoa al _ ~ = RAP PUSH-BOD __—— FEAR’ SPAR CARRY=THEU —_ LEFT FLAP HORN — RIGHT FLAP WORN 1 WHEEL AND BRAKE ASSEMBLY Trial fit the whee! to the fuselage truss. Measure and make bushings to center the wneel in the truss. Drill the axle retaining hole for the cotter pin when you are satisfied with the fit The aluminum axle should ba trimmed to fit flush with the outer edges of the axle mount bushings. Cut the various brake band parts. Fit and rivet. Attach the band to the truss and center It on the tira Weld two small “tits” on each side of the band mount tube to hold the brake band centered. Do not weld the hand to the truss! Check the cable alignment to the band and adjust. The band should ride just off tl ire. Painting the band will lead to a good deal of smoke in the cockpit the first time you apply the brake! y FAP ” BELL CRANK —=" COTTER PIL a BRAKE BANO- - hy SCLEN WITH “2p ELASTIC STOP NUTS ( WELO BEADS TO CENTER a&AKE- —— ALEL - Sg DA. ¥8°C6- ALU, GAR ASSEMBLE AND OBL Tiley 54° DU TUBE ANO AkEL FOR COFTER PNY S402, + 053 WALL 2 5g ts. XMOLY TUBE WHEEL SPACER, OWE OW Ektw SIDE OF HUB 2 THE INSTRUMENT PANEL The construction of the basle panel Is shown, Note: variations ot the basic panel will he necessary to suit your particular needs and type of flying. Thougnt given to your panel layout will greatly reduce fatigue on those long flights. The two panel overlays can be used to produce simple and effective panels for most flying needs. ‘Cut out the panel blank. Lay the panel overlay over the blank centerline. Center punch the instrument holes using the small dimples in the overiay as the quides. “Fly cut” the openings. Drill the mount screw holes. Check the instrument fit. Bend the panel to shape using a bending brake. Ample bend radius (178") must ba used to avoid cracking the aluminum. (A good choot etal shop should be able to do the Job for you.) The panel can be built using separate pieces for the face and sides if you desire. Trial fit the panel to the truss. Locate the best place for you for the tow release and trim controls. Drill and install ‘The overlay can be attached using double slick tape or simply screwed in place. Add placards to sul Placards required in the cockpit: * Airspeed red line at 120 m.p.h. * Flap arc 90 m.p.h. maximum « Flap detents labeled in dugrows + “Tow Release Fut + Trim - Pull for up + Brake Compass correction card. Canopy latch-open and locked. Cabin air. 13 Bonding Techniques ‘The key word in bonding is clean! Through out the process trom initial preparations through final clean up after bonding you will have to maintain absolute cleanliness in order to insure acceptable bonds. This cannot be stressed enough! The presence of one fingerprint on a bond line could cause failure of the joint so follow these instructions carefully. YOU WILL NEED: ‘+ Many rolls of whitepaper towel (no colors or borders!) *.M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) or a good grade of lacquer thinner. + 3M Scotch Brite medium grade (Scotch Grite “scuff pads” are available at automotive paint dealers). White cotton gloves (Cheap ones) “Throw-a-way” rubber gloves (Available at paint stores). Paper Hot Cups (Non Waxed Type!) ‘Small mixing sticks or equal. Epoxy scale (as shown or a good small scale). ‘Small Zip-Loc bags or equal. Several clean eottee cans. Good detergent soap for washing hands. A Fire-proo! wasie container for storing used thinner-sosked paper tenwal Once you have the parts to be bonded properly fitted and trimmed througnly cloan the eurtacea to be bonded with a now paper towol soaked in M.E.K. Clean the adjacent areas to help avoiding contamination of the bonding area. Remember, grease or oily substances are your arch enemy! Mark the bonding areas with a felt-tipped pan. For instance when the wing ribs and spar will contact the skin on the inside surtaces of the skin, Obviously you will nul have to mark the spar caps or the rib flanges. Use a Scotch Brite to throughly roughen the bonding areas. The initial rubbing will produce a rough surface but you really have to rub to get the Scotch-Brite to “bite”. The areas should be roughened 1/4” to 1/2” one each side of the bond area where possible; The old addage more is better than not enough. Note: when preparing the skins for the wings and tail surtaces place the skins tor the wings and tall surfaces on a smooth padded surtace. The vigorous rubbing will “burnish” the bonding area which will show up as ridges on the skin surfaces after bonding. Throughly ewab and dry the bonding arcas again using more M.E.K. and clean paper tawels. Don't you dare use any previously used towels! Clcan again! Note: Repeat stops above If the oloaned surfaoes aro exposed more than thrae hourst Miy the epayy ising the Reale to measure out the proper amount. Balance the scale with an empty cup at wach station, Fill the "A cup with the amount of epoxy part “A” you'll need to do the job, add enough part “B" to cup “B" to again balance the seale, carefully pour 8 to A and mix. Caution! Do not spill, splash, or ‘platter the part "B" catalyot. Gontact with your oyeo will certainly mean Permanent damage! Even immediate washing will have little effect on stopping tissue damage. Be extremely careful with the catalyst, wear safely glasses and rubber gloves when mixing the hysol and avoid e and skin contact. The mixing will go slowly at first because the “A” is very thick and tha "B" is thin. Try folding about half of the “8” until the two parts start to mix then add the remainder of the "B” “4 - WEIGHT, ADLOST 70 BALANCE BAR ITH CPS EMPTY a MING RATIO 94/0 ERKY 100 BARTS A” To 22.4. . PURTS BS OY WEIGHT ALUM. ANGLE. 20 CALE FOR MIXING EPOXY FIL @ small Zip-Loc bay with the mixture (Several bags will be necessary for bonding the skins). it would be wise to measure out several smaller batches in separate cups so your helper can mix them as you need them. This will “buy” you more time since the thermal Dulia-up in large masses of the epoxy speed up its cure time. Little organization helps here! Snip a bottom corner of the bag. Only enough should be trimmed off the corner to allow the epoxy to form a 3/16” bead as it is squeezed out. Apply the epoxy To the norizontal surfaces first. Although the epoxy is very thixotrophic it will have. some tendenoy to run. It is only necessary to apply the epoxy to one surface of the joint Check the alignment of the parts and welgh whore necessary, The weight is only used to hold the parts in contact, it Is not necessary to produce strength. Clean up excess epoxy with a layer of thinner. Allow the parts to cure for at least 24 livurs al 70” F. betore removing the parts from the fixtures or clamps. On the flaps, ailerons and tail surfaces install the 3/32" anti-shear rivets hofare daing any filing or sanding on the surfaces or edges. Note: Never chill or freere the epoxy to rotard tho cure timel Condensation will cause moisture to De absorbed Into the epoxy and prevent a good bond. NOTES ON INSPECTING BONDS: ‘When a bond is completed and the epoxy is cured only a visual inspection can be performed, The F.A.A. inspeotor should look over the bonded area for evidence that the bond line of the aluminum nas becn throughly svuffed and cleaned, There sliould by a nice little fillet, much like a welding fillet, around the cdgs of tho bonded parte. A check should be made to see that all of tho antl pool rivets have been installed in the control surtace trailing edge ronte and tips. A little more epoxy Is more desirable than not enough as long as one does not get carried away! Blobs or drips should be wiped away where accessible. ‘Sample bond strips are of little value unless you have access to lab test equipment 5 Tail Surface Assembly " Caretully cut out the tall fixture cradies using a band saw or routar and tha {ull size template provided. (A hand sabre saw will work but will probably 6- Quire more finishing on the cut surfaces. A simple routing jig works best tor the tail and wing cradles). Cut base and rear rail as shown on full size template. Use Elmer's glue and screws or nails to join the parts. little extra time spent making an accurate fixture will help make a much smoother when you're done. Cover the eradies with 1/4" X 2/4" weathor strippi SEF FUL SIZE TEMPLATE “PARTICAL x PD TAIL SURFACE FUTURE \ MPR IN WE x TH FOAM WEATHER SHIPPING TO EACH 8 FORM 1" Gut the .058 X 1 1/4 tall spar th. File te ends square and remove all saw marks. Slightly chi yor the 1.D. and 0,0, of the tube at each end. Cut and fit the 1 1/2” X .120 wall X 1 1/4” spar doubler. SAR TUGE

    You might also like