Professional Documents
Culture Documents
British Vogue - February 2023 - British Vogue
British Vogue - February 2023 - British Vogue
British Vogue - February 2023 - British Vogue
ZO Ë K R AV I T Z ’ S C H O I C E
FEBRUARY
REGULARS
26 EDITOR’S LETTER
NOTICES
Behind the scenes of the issue
28 TRIBUTE
The true legacy of
Vivienne Westwood.
SHINING THROUGH,
page 140
By Sarah Mower
84 CHECKLIST
How to wear colour now
199 STOCKISTS
TRENDS
46 VIVID IMAGINATION
Play with proportion,
palettes and personality in
our accessories special.
Edited and styled by Jessica Gerardi.
Photographs by Maxime Imbert
JEWELLERY
SPOTLIGHT
61 THOUGHT PATTERNS
Duro Olowu collaborates
65 CROWN GLORIES
A new Boucheron collection
gets the royal treatment.
with Max&Co. By Rachel Garrahan
By Laura Hawkins
SUSTAINABILITY
66 GREENER PASTURES
Ecofriendly fashion, on film.
By Dana Thomas
68 SPINNING AROUND
Caroline Polachek releases
her wild side.
By Liam Hess
DARLING
72 SOPHIA BROWN
The actor’s favourite things.
By Radhika Seth
LIVING
Masterpiece Nude Eyeshadow Palette in Golden Nudes. Lips: Colour Elixir Lip
Cushion in Majestic Berry. Skin: Facefinity All Day Flawless Foundation and By Tilly Macalister-Smith
Facefinity Blush in Sunkissed Rose. Hair by KERASTASE. Mousse Bouffante.
79
Hair: TAMARA McNAUGHTON. Make-up: FARA HOMIDI.
Nails: KIMMIE KYEES. Set design: SPENCER VROOMAN. LIFE & STYLE
Photograph: ZOE GHERTNER. Styling: LAW ROACH By Julia Sarr-Jamois > 20
15
CONTENTS
VIEWPOINT
MAGNETIC CHARGE,
90 BACKSTAGE
CONFIDENTIAL
Go behind the curtain for
spring/summer 2023.
By Lauren Murdoch-Smith
92 DIRECTOR’S CUT
An array of flawless,
glow-giving make-up. FASHION & FEATURES
By Jessica Diner
95 HIGHER POWER
Skincare gets an upgrade.
100 WITH EVERY
HEARTBEAT
Priyanka Chopra Jonas on
By Twiggy Jalloh. Photograph surrogacy, marriage and her
by Thomas Brown new love: motherhood.
By Jen Wang. Photographs
96 BEAUTY MUSINGS
How best to rest and
recuperate this month.
by Zoë Ghertner. Styling by
Law Roach
By Lauren Murdoch-Smith
110 CHANGING DIRECTIONS
Set your sartorial course for
the new season ahead.
Photographs: Rafael Pavarotti.
Fashion editor: Grace Coddington
122
CHANGING DIRECTIONS, ABIDING VALUES
page 110 In celebration of all-American
godfather Ralph Lauren.
By Sarah Harris. Photographs
by Sharif Hamza. Styling by
Dena Giannini
162
RAFAEL PAVAROTTI; ELIZAVETA PORODINA
CELESTIAL BEING
Ring in the Year of the
Rabbit in style.
Photographs by Theo Liu. Styling
by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson
VOGUE ASKS
20
CLASSIC FUSION ORLINSKI
MEET & GREET Introducing the faces behind this month’s issue
26
EDITOR’S LETTER
27
RADICAL
CHIC
The late VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD was
a true revolutionary
at WORK, writes
SARAH MOWER
T
he near-impossible task of honouring Vivienne Westwood Sara Stockbridge and Susie Bick (now Cave) waltzing out,
has to begin by saying this: above all, she was a great throats dripping with pearls and bosoms bouncing above
Englishwoman – a unique designer who pushed fashion corsets printed with François Boucher’s rococo painting
history forward, and who then used all of her power to Daphnis and Chloe. Risqué bloomers bedecked in tassels
stand up for the future of the world. Her death, on and luscious bows flirted along. Hourglass dresses were
29 December 2022, sent waves of images reverberating gilded with elaborate 18th-century patterns. It was 1990,
through memory. Vivienne as the provocateur of punk. her Portrait collection. The astonishing thing – our mouths
Vivienne pioneering Pirates and mini-crinis. Vivienne were open in wonder, watching it – was how many times
as a modern-day Boudicca in a magnificent cape, riding one woman was capable of turning the tide of fashion,
a tank past the constituency home of then-prime minister eyes sparkling with conviction, against the travails of
David Cameron to protest against fracking in 2015. pennilessness and public derision. Instead of some
It feels only right to quote Vivienne’s call to action underground presentation, there we were under chandeliers
– one snippet of speech in her nonstop campaigning – in Pall Mall, in the grand home of the Institute of Directors.
which her family and husband, Andreas Kronthaler, It was something of a shock, in true Vivienne mode.
posted on their announcement of her death. “Stop climate She hadn’t, as she explained, “sold out”. Instead, she had
change. This is a war for the very existence of the human turned to high culture – studied at London’s Wallace
race. And that of the planet. The most important weapon Collection, and through deep classical and philosophical
Above, from we have is public opinion.” She commanded, “Become a reading – to introduce radical thinking to a dullard modern
left: Naomi freedom fighter!” At 81, Vivienne Westwood was as world dominated by minimalism. “Orthodoxy is the grave
Campbell on
the a/w ’93 aligned to what young people care about as ever; the of intelligence,” as she mellifluously quoted from Bertrand
runway. grandmother battling forward in her hand-scrawled Buy Russell in the introduction to Painted Ladies – her eye-
Vivienne Less T-shirt, and to hell with the establishment. opening documentary series on fashion, costume and art.
Westwood, As a young journalist, I had a crick in my neck looking That latest turn, as she saw it, was merely the intellectual
photographed
for Vogue, up to her. Partly, that was because she set her catwalks continuation of her life’s mission: “The only reason I’m
October 2009 high. It certainly was on the unforgettable day she sent in fashion is to destroy the word conformity.” By the time
28
TRIBUTE
Right: for the
September 2019
issue of British
Vogue, Vivienne
returned to the
primary school
where, as a
young woman,
she had worked
as a teacher
anybody, any size, any sex, and made them look incredible.”
Ever confident, Tarbard recalls, “She was convinced her
punk followers would swarm to be pirates overnight – and
they did.” He remembers too how the Pirate collection
was “rejected by everyone. They were all afraid of her –
except Grace Coddington, who photographed it in British
Vogue. That made a huge difference.”
Perhaps her self-conviction and resilience were there
from birth. Vivienne Swire was born in 1941, in Tintwistle,
Derbyshire. A northern war baby who grew up during
rationing, she taught herself to sew clothes from the
smallest amount of fabric. She moved to London with
her parents, and briefly went to Harrow Art School, but
diverted, needing to earn, to become a primary school
teacher. At 21, she married Derek Westwood, and had a
son, Ben, in 1963. Dissatisfied with domesticity, she left
to live with her brother, who fatefully introduced her to
McLaren. She gave birth to their son, Joe Corré, in 1967.
In the late ’80s, Vivienne was appointed a professor of
fashion at the Vienna Academy of Applied Arts. There
I came in, she’d already radicalised a generation of teenage she met Andreas Kronthaler, a student who she eventually
punks and scandalised the nation with the fetish and married. He would codesign on her label too, which, from
bondage suits, Naked Cowboy and God Save the Queen a/w ’16 onwards, became known as Andreas Kronthaler
T-shirts that streamed out of 430 King’s Road, the ever- for Vivienne Westwood. In 2006, Queen Elizabeth II made
changing shop she presided over with Malcolm McLaren. Vivienne a Dame Commander of the British Empire, an
First called Let It Rock in 1971, then Too Fast to Live, upgrade from the OBE she received in 1992, swirling
Too Young to Die a year later, it became Sex in ’74 and, knickerless in a circle skirt outside Buckingham Palace.
in 1976, Seditionaries. By the early 1980s, it was renamed How to encompass the vastness of her legacy? Her
Worlds End, as it remains – a place of pilgrimage where punk phase is eternally referenced, morphing onwards
teenagers have forged their identities, and found their through generations, and turning up through time in the
TIM WALKER; PAUL WETHERELL; GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK
people, for more than 50 years. safety-pinned collections of Gianni Versace and many more.
Yet it was only when Vivienne left McLaren that she In the days following her death, hundreds of people have
came into her own. Their breakup was a painful one. posted memories of how her clothes led to self-discovery.
McLaren had no scruple about dismissing her as his mere Fashion academics have told me that students today quote
seamstress; and she was to battle against disrespect and her as their inspiration, both as a designer and as an activist.
outright ridicule as an untaught designer – even as she Her allegiance to youth, and to what matters, passed on
continued to design collection after influential collection. her courage to so many designers to be themselves, from
Mark Tarbard, the expert pattern-cutter who Vivienne John Galliano to Matty Bovan. That radical power of
asked to help with 1981’s Pirate collection, saw the Vivienne’s will continue, undiminished, long into the future.
originality of her technique firsthand at her Clapham flat. The last time I saw her was in October. On a street
“She’d made everything herself, on herself. No drawings, in Kensington, I heard an unmistakable voice loudly
patterns. She had a mini-crini with one of her kid’s Hula discussing the politics of international finance following
Hoops as the boning. Her method was completely alien Liz Truss’s appointment as prime minister. I turned and
to classical fashion education. I was literally shaking as I saw it was Vivienne, strolling with Andreas. As they
watched,” he testifies. “Her genius was that her cut fitted walked away, I saw they were holding hands.
29
EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & EUROPEAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
FASHION CREATIVE
FASHION DIRECTORS JULIA SARR-JAMOIS, POPPY KAIN ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR EILIDH WILLIAMSON
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JEWELLERY & WATCH DIRECTOR RACHEL GARRAHAN VISUALS EDITOR KOFI PAINTSIL
FASHION CREDITS EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITOR ISABELLA BRUNNER
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR ENIOLA DARE
FASHION ASSISTANTS THALIA METALLINOU, HONEY SWEET ELIAS, PRODUCTION/COPY
JACK O'NEILL, LOIS ADEOSHUN, JULIA STORM EUROPEAN PRODUCTION DIRECTOR VICTORIA WILLAN
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SARAH RICHARDSON, MARIE-AMÉLIE SAUVÉ
CONTENT STRATEGY/OPERATIONS
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DIGITAL DIRECTOR KERRY M c DERMOTT
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EXECUTIVE FASHION NEWS & FEATURES EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD
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ACTING FEATURES EDITOR KATE LLOYD DIGITAL FASHION WRITER ALICE CARY
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ADWOA ABOAH, RIZ AHMED, LAURA BAILEY, SUSAN BENDER WHITFIELD, VIDEO
MUNROE BERGDORF, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON, DIRECTOR, DIGITAL VIDEO PROGRAMMING,
VASSI CHAMBERLAIN, ALEXA CHUNG, MICHAELA COEL, DEVELOPMENT & CREATIVE PRODUCTION MINNIE J CARVER
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BEAUTY & WELLNESS
SENIOR BEAUTY & WELLNESS EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
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VIVID
imagination
ACCESSORIES that are
emblematic of escape? See the
BRIGHT side all season with pieces
in a PRISMATIC PALETTE.
Photographs by
MAXIME IMBERT
“Add a pop of
COLOUR to
minimalist neutrals
with a RAINBOW
of SEROTONIN-
HAIR: SARAH JO PALMER. MAKE-UP: THOMASIN WAITE. NAILS: JENNI DRAPER. DIGITAL ARTWORK: PHILIPPE BASIC.
inducing accessories”
JESSICA GERARDI,
SHOPPING EDITOR
MODELS: ANNEMARY ADERIBIGBE, JAN BAIBOON, ALESSANDRA CAPORASO. PIXELATE.BIZ
Jacket, £2,600,
HERMES. Earrings,
from £255, SUNNEI
MIU MIU
STELLA McCARTNEY
FENDI
Clockwise from top right: micro bag, £250, SELF-PORTRAIT. Ring, £443, HOMER. Hi-tops, £125, NIKE.
Bag with feather trim, to order, HERMES. Ballet shoes, £450, TOD’S. Tote, from £170, TELFAR
47
TRENDS
Accessories special
Glow GETTER
MAXIME IMBERT; PIXELATE.BIZ
“A riot of
RHINESTONES
isn’t just for after dark.
Make MORE IS MORE
your daytime maxim”
LAURA HAWKINS, FASHION
FEATURES EDITOR
49
TRENDS
Accessories special
Headscarf, £460,
PACO RABANNE.
Coat, £5,760,
ERMANNO
SCERVINO
Clear
VISION
All eyes are on the
SEE-THROUGH
accessory. Cuff, scarf or
sandal, LAYER to
bare ALL or nothing
McQUEEN. Ring,
from £1,060,
BLEECKER &
PRINCE. Right: bag,
£795, ASPINAL
OF LONDON
50
ULLAJOHNSON.COM
TRENDS
Accessories special
Coat, £3,850,
MIU MIU.
Rollneck, £215,
WOLFORD.
Boots, £1,890,
DIOR
Leather, £825,
MANOLO BLAHNIK
Ripple EFFECT
MAXIME IMBERT; PIXELATE.BIZ
Leather, £1,530,
How to make style WAVES? Avoid a wardrobe wipeout and
BOTTEGA VENETA OSCILLATE towards shoes with UNDULATING heels
52
Minidress, £2,400.
Shoes, £1,400.
Both LOEWE
TRENDS
Surprise
Accessories special
MATTERS
Fixate on FLABBERGASTING style. The most
unpredictable pieces? Take your WILDEST guess…
“Embrace
your inner
CHILD with
this season’s
CROP of
whimsical
accessories.
Dressing
never felt
so FUN”
JOY MONTGOMERY,
SENIOR COMMERCE
WRITER
55
Dress, £3,500.
Bag, £2,700. Both
LOUIS VUITTON.
EPIC
Tights, £18, FALKE
scale
EXPAND your handbag
horizons. For the new season,
CLASSIC SILHOUETTES
get souped-up and
SUPERSIZED
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
GABRIELA HEARST
PETER DO
Clockwise from
above: leather,
from £1,680,
VERSACE.
Leather, £2,350,
BURBERRY. Left: leather, £2,165,
Coated canvas and LORO PIANA.
leather, £165, Above: nylon and leather,
LONGCHAMP £1,200, SPORTMAX
56
TRENDS
Accessories special
Full
Blazer, £1,800,
GIORGIO
ARMANI.
Shirt, £1,330,
CIRCLE
THE ROW.
Earrings, £620,
KHAITE
Sweater,
£1,950. T-shirts,
from £680 each.
All MIU MIU.
Earrings, £490,
ALAIA From top: £420, ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
£350, JIMMY CHOO. £380, BOTTEGA VENETA.
From £670, VERSACE
57
Meet your
MATCH
Be in it to TWIN it.
Forget prim or fusty,
COORDINATING
fashion makes
for the coolest
COMBINATION
Coat, £2,400.
Boots, to order.
Hat, £315.
All ETRO
TRENDS
Accessories special
ALTUZARRA
Dress, £4,200.
Tights, £250. Both
VALENTINO. Bag,
£1,690. Shoes, £910.
Both VALENTINO
GARAVANI
16ARLINGTON
MAXIME IMBERT; PIXELATE.BIZ
Above and
right: dress,
£3,980. Bag,
Clockwise from above: £750. Both
COPERNI, at
CHANEL
59
SPOTLIGHT
From left: Duro Olowu
with model Enya Davis,
who wears satin jacket
and stretch-satin
trousers, MAX&CO
& DURO OLOWU
THOUGHT PATTERNS
How one photographer’s ARTFULLY eclectic compositions led designer
DURO OLOWU to his latest COLLABORATION. By LAURA HAWKINS.
Photographs by ZOEY GROSSMAN. Styling by ENIOLA DARE
61
SPOTLIGHT
Cotton-canvas coat, satin
shirt, and satin skirt,
MAX&CO & DURO
OLOWU. Cashmere
rollneck, EXTREME
CASHMERE.
Tights, WOLFORD.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: KOTA SUIZU.
Make-up: LAURA
DOMINIQUE. Nails:
CHISATO YAMAMOTO.
Set design: PHOEBE
SHAKESPEARE. Digital
artwork: ZU STUDIO.
Model: ENYA DAVIS
62
approach to building prints using different references, such as
Moroccan carpets, graphic 1930s motifs and colours inspired by
Ghirri’s pictures,” says Max Mara Group board member Maria
Giulia Prezioso Maramotti, who worked closely on the project.
“We also took inspiration from silhouettes within our own archives
and built out the moodboards from there.”
Cropped biker jackets and shirtdresses, lightweight ribbed knits
and headscarves: pieces in the collection are designed not for the
staunch stylistic rigour of resort towns, such as Capri or St-Tropez,
but for a liberated and adventurous spirit, and someone who flings
espite being warmly invited to take a seat before my interview
time-honed clothes into a suitcase and books a one-way ticket.
with Duro Olowu in his curiosity-filled Mayfair studio – while
“We also incorporated an off-white inspired by the colour of a
the Nigeria-born, London-based curator and designer wraps up
keepsake T-shirt that’s been worn and worn and rewashed,” Olowu
a phone call – I find it impossible to do so. I have, it appears, a
says. “I was also listening to Sade a lot. And thinking about her
case of the fashion fidgets. So captivated am I by a boxy black
sense of sharp but thrown-together dressing.”
jacket accented with bold graphic florals hanging on a rail near
Ghirri’s playful and surrealist visual style saw him distort
the front door, I find myself moving instinctively towards it. When
proportion and place, and expand the nature and realms of physical
Olowu materialises, I am keenly inspecting his signature highly
possibility. The works dabble in the human ability to dream. In
Salisburgo (1977), four women stand facing a majestic mountain
saturated limes, lemon yellows and fuchsias, in a similar way, it
transpires, to how he’s been admiring the potent, sun-soaked
scene, which the reader comes to realise is not a real Alpine landscape
but an illustrated map or mural. In Parigi (1972), one of Olowu’s
compositions of Italian photographer Luigi Ghirri, the inspiration
behind his spring/summer 2023 collaboration with fellow Reggio
favourite compositions, Ghirri captures the back of a boy, a floral
Emilia-originating brand Max&Co. bandana tied around his Afro, sitting against an unidentified watery
“There’s a dark orange, almost terracotta, that I call ‘Ghirri
backdrop and holding a miniature model of the Eiffel Tower. Olowu
orange’,” he enthuses of a colour synonymous with the trailblazing
and Max&Co’s collection is equally transportive. It allows its wearer
1943-born artist, who created a visual style that mediated between
to travel even if only in the imagination, flitting between heat-drenched
reality and fantasy, the banal and the kitsch, the vivid and time-
Italian and Senegalese streets or the enclaves of any dreamt-up
tinged, before his death in 1992. Olowu, whose art-suffused
destination. Ghirri’s minimal journeys? Now they’re endless.
collections abound with photographer
references such as Eileen Agar, Beth Lesser
and Lee Miller, specifically alludes to Brest “LUIGI GHIRRI’s studio Luigi Ghirri’s Brest
(1972), a photograph of a woman with a was the city, the TERRAIN,” (1972). Left: Parigi
(1972) . Below:
dark bob wearing a rich orange coat. Her
face is invisible but the silhouette of her says DURO OLOWU. “I Salisburgo (1977)
palms and back appear to the viewer pressed thought, ‘What if he’d had the
into frosted glass. “My favourite Ghirri quote
is, ‘I take photographs in colour because the OPPORTUNITY to travel?’”
real world is in colour,’” says Olowu.
Ghirri preferred “minimal journeys”
when seeking out his subject material, and
most of his expansively imaginative oeuvre
– be it scenes of wind-whipped beaches or
studies of metal shop shutters – was lensed
within three kilometres of his home. Despite
this near distance, Ghirri was obsessed with
maps, and in 1973 he put together Atlante,
a photographic series that wittily blew up
the cartographical illustrations of atlases,
such as the tree symbols of forests and the
blue squiggles of rivers. For his Max&Co
collaboration, which launches in February and comprises 35 pieces,
Olowu imagined Ghirri leaving Reggio Emilia and whirling high
above the oceans, roads and hills of his photographs, capturing the
topography of Mali’s capital, Bamako, and the shore-lined Saint-
Louis in Senegal. “Ghirri’s studio was the city, the terrain,” Olowu
ZOEY GROSSMAN; EREDI DI LUIGI GHIRRI
63
Cuvée Rosé, chosen by the best.
champagnelaurentperrier www.laurent-perrier.com
Photo credit: Iris Velghe / Illustration credit: Quentin Blake / Conception Luma
JEWELLERY
CROWN
GLORIES
Boucheron’s latest collection
takes its lead from a ROYAL
favourite, writes RACHEL
GARRAHAN. Photograph
by FELICITY INGRAM.
Styling by JULIA BRENARD
er Majesty Queen Elizabeth II famously wore colour symmetrical design. “I love the strength and the purity
so well, and while she possessed a world-class collection of art deco but I also love how it’s balanced here by the
of diamonds there were few jewels she wore more often baby blue of the aquamarine,” she says.
during her 70 years on the throne than a matching pair The result is Boucheron’s first collection inspired
of sky blue aquamarine Boucheron clips. by a single jewel. Each piece began with the shape of
The brooches were of sentimental value, having been the originals but was refined in detail and altered in
a gift from the Queen’s father, George VI, on her 18th function. Oval aquamarines become round, high
birthday, in 1944. They had passed into the Royal cabochons framed by a flourish of deep blue lacquer
Collection after their original owner, the King’s younger on a dramatic cuff. A diamond and ruby brooch
brother, died in a military air crash two years earlier. mimics the original in one half, the other half
When Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative director, disappearing like a glitch in the matrix. And just as
came across the clips in the archive, she was immediately Choisne’s original moodboard was peppered with the
struck by two things: their emotional resonance for the Queen in all her colourful outfits, this collection is
Queen, whom she considers a style icon, and their an ode to Her Majesty in polychromatic glory.
65
SUSTAINABILITY
Greener PASTURES
In a new documentary, AMY POWNEY brings FASHION
sustainability out into the OPEN, writes DANA THOMAS
W
hen Amy Powney, creative director for the London-based and went to visit them to confirm their practices were
brand Mother of Pearl, won the BFC/Vogue Designer indeed humane and ecologically minded.
Fashion Fund in 2017, she decided to use the £100,000 Trudging across fields and interacting with agriculture
prize to underwrite the company’s pivot from conventional workers wasn’t foreign to Powney. She grew up on a farm
to sustainable practices. It was a major undertaking, Powney in Lancashire. “It wasn’t an easy life,” she told me. But it
states in Fashion Reimagined, a poignant and powerful was a good one, full of creativity and, in a way, fashion.
documentary, directed by Becky Hutner, about Mother Her mother worked for a stretch in a fabric mill, and
of Pearl’s journey to becoming an eco-responsible brand. would bring home remnants to make clothes. Through
“Everything you create has a footprint,” Powney says this, Powney developed a love of textiles. She enrolled at
on-screen, “and in fashion it’s huge. We produce a hundred Kingston University, earned a BA in fashion and landed
billion garments every year, and three out of five end up a job as a studio assistant for Mother of Pearl, which, at
in landfill.” The entire process, as the film’s title states, the time, was a small indie label that followed traditional
must be reimagined. To do her part, (read: polluting) practices. In a few short years, Powney
Powney set out to understand how worked her way up from sweeping floors to running the
our clothes are made. What she studio, and, in 2013, was appointed creative chief.
discovered was it’s not so clear. She Then came the BFC/Vogue prize and the chance to
wanted to use only organic cotton, take the company green. As we see in the film, Powney’s
but no mills could pinpoint determination paid off. “All the fabrics are fully
where their cotton came sustainable,” she said during an interview last autumn.
NICK PRENDIVILLE; DUCK PRODUCTIONS
from or guarantee that it was She also insists that Mother of Pearl’s clothes are made
chemical-free. Wool, the to last – the antithesis of fast fashion. “Durability is key,”
other material Powney she explained. Once the garments come to their end of
wanted for her eco- life, most can be recycled. As honourable as all that sounds,
conscious collection, called there is still work to be done. She pointed to the brand’s
Top and above: No Frills, was also tricky to signature hazelnut-size faux-pearl buttons. “They’re still
Mother of Pearl creative trace back to the original plastic,” she confessed, sounding slightly exasperated.
director Amy Powney.
Right: cardigan, £295, source. She eventually “We’ll figure something out.” Undoubtedly she will.
MOTHER OF PEARL found reliable suppliers, Fashion Reimagined will be in cinemas on 3 March
66
SPINNING
around
With a NEW album,
POP’s smartest princess,
CAROLINE POLACHEK,
unleashes her wilder SIDE.
By LIAM HESS
ARTS & CULTURE
n a drizzly grey October morning, I arrive at a nondescript address across a number of countries; wherever Polachek’s own headline
in a northeast London suburb where, I’ve been told, Caroline shows or her stint supporting Dua Lipa could accommodate a
Polachek is shooting the cover for her new album. Given the recording session. Along the way, she has also found the time to
musician’s knack for world-building – the delicately arranged burnish her image as a fashion favourite, appearing in campaigns
layer cake of Disney backdrops and ’90s Steven Meisel Versace for Loewe and Vivienne Westwood and walking the runway for
campaigns that informed the visuals for her 2019 record Pang, the likes of Chloé and Eckhaus Latta. “I think in some ways,
for example – I expect to arrive at a studio filled with extravagant I made peace with the chaos,” she reflects. “The jumbling up of all
sets and esoteric props. of it ended up feeling correct for the music.”
Instead, I find myself at an outdoor train museum, where Polachek’s instincts for pop songwriting have sometimes felt
Polachek is crouched inside an old Underground carriage, crawling almost mathematically precise; on Desire, they’re let off the leash
through a pile of sand. She’s wearing a dress covered in coffee to freakier and far more unexpected places.“I wanted to turn the
stains (intentionally, it’s worth noting), a lick of kohl across her volume up on this feeling of overflowing and overabundance,” she
eyelids, and she’s surrounded by extras playing oblivious commuters. explains. “Maybe even a bit more mania. I definitely hope there’s
“I wanted the cover to be a kind of explosion of being in the real humour in there, even if it’s just a sonic switch-up that catches you
world,” she explains – or at least her version of the rush-hour crush. off-guard,” she says, before adding, wryly, “or makes you scream.”
The cover Polachek is referring to is for her upcoming album, Polachek’s snap-crackle-pop energy relaxes a little when we
Desire, I Want To Turn Into You, out this February – the second chat about the music itself – even as she acknowledges the album
under her own name, though it’s technically her seventh. Now 37, is her most wilfully chaotic work yet. She talks of ancient Roman
she first came up as the lead singer of the Brooklyn indie duo cornucopias, of the ants and volcanoes and bottles of wine that
Chairlift, and when the group disbanded in 2017, Polachek found have become recurring visual motifs – emblems of her life’s
that success was far from guaranteed. A turbulent period in her unsteadiness over the past few years. Still, amid a relentless touring
personal life followed – divorce, moving from New York to London, schedule, she’s also managed to find a more grounded existence,
mysterious adrenaline rushes, bouts of insomnia – during which splitting her time between London and Los Angeles with her
she wrote Pang. An introspective and often self-deprecating partner, the British visual artist Matt Copson. (He codirects her
document of personal rebuilding, it served as one of 2019’s most videos, while she has soundtracked his laser projections and even
virtuosic pop records, earning Polachek an entirely new and fiercely contributed an aria to a recent Kurt Cobain-inspired opera he
loyal fan base, helped in no small part by the success of her sleeper directed in London; in their downtime, they play the collectable
hit “So Hot You’re Hurting My Feelings”. But a handful of shows card game Magic: The Gathering.)
into the tour, the pandemic arrived, throwing everything Polachek Polachek herself still hasn’t figured out the album’s title –
had planned into disarray. Desire, I Want To Turn Into You. “It could mean being in love and
What else was there to do, then, but wanting to fuse with someone, or the deep,
embrace the disruption? “It’s definitely an manic hunger that comes with being
extroverted album, and I’m playing a lot obsessed with someone,” she says. “But it
more with nonsense and abstraction,” says could also mean wanting to become desire
Polachek, framed by the whitewashed walls itself. Which is really the force that guides
of her home in Los Angeles when we us through our lives.”
reconnect over Zoom the morning before To her, that ambiguity makes the name
she’s about to head to South America on all the more accurate. “The moments of
tour. (That very afternoon – pending Jair sincerity, the moments of abstraction on the
Bolsonaro’s reaction to his defeat in the album, it’s all contained in that phrase,” she
Brazilian presidential election – she will be continues. With her second album, Polachek
LINDSAY ELLARY; AIDAN ZAMIRI
catching a flight to São Paulo; as it turns is ready to nudge her surreal, seductive strain
out her performance will end up being a of pop in a new direction. A little more
kind of celebration.) Typically, Polachek louche, a little lewder and a little rougher
would hole up in a studio for weeks on end around the edges? “I think I like that,” she
to write, she tells me, but this album was says, with a mischievous smile.
“I made peace with the chaos,” says
recorded in fits and starts and sporadic musician Caroline Polachek. Above: the Desire, I Want To Turn Into You is out on
bursts of creativity: across a number of years; cover artwork for her second solo album 14 February
69
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lavender and light a cast as Eile, the fearsome warrior at
DIPTYQUE Baies candle
[from £33]. I took one to the heart of Netflix series The Witcher:
Iceland with me because Blood Origin, she had decided to stop
I knew it was going to acting. “It was really affecting me,”
be a tough shoot.”
the 31-year-old says of the relentless
auditioning cycle, which led her to
consider becoming a teacher, like her
parents, instead. She submitted a tape
for the blockbuster prequel thinking
it’d be “the last one”. Two months
later, she was in Iceland, filming jaw-
dropping stunts alongside Michelle
Yeoh. “It was epic,” she says – and well
overdue for the ArtsEd and Identity
School of Acting graduate from
HAIR: LAURAINE BAILEY. MAKE-UP: KENNETH SOH. NAILS: AMI STREETS.
magical place where you than just being nostalgic about Black
can climb up a waterfall. history, I wanted to play different types
I can’t wait to go back.”
of people.” Her next two releases fulfil
that wish: Borderland, a ’70s-set thriller,
and the Russell T Davies-produced
romcom You & Me. Next, the goal is
to produce, particularly projects “about
Black and brown families set in the
“The last great thing I bought was my ADIDAS Midlands. We need more stories
& GUCCI trainers.” £575 like that.” RADHIKA SETH
72
YSLBEAUTY.COM
A PLACE FOR
EVERYTHING
In Manhattan, MARIA McMANUS’s
home strikes the perfect work-life balance,
finds TILLY MACALISTER-SMITH.
Photographs by KELLY MARSHALL
I
t’s unclear, at first, where the front door of Maria McManus’s New
York apartment is. Tucked between nondescript Tribeca shopfronts,
a lift buzzer offers a clue. A freight elevator clatters down, and
McManus, dressed in a grey wool double-breasted suit from her
pre-fall ’22 collection and nothing more – not even a scrap of make-
up – hauls open the heavy door. “Most people want the doorman,
the elevator, the gym,” she says by way of introduction. “But because
this wasn’t a full-service building, it was a great dollar-per-square-
foot, and we knew what we could do with the space.”
We journey up (although when she’s by herself she prefers to
conquer the five flights by foot). Upstairs, her open-plan apartment
is awash with a serene light, all the brighter thanks to white-oak
parquet floors. It’s no surprise this is a “shoes off ” home, a custom
she picked up while visiting Japan in her university days.
She and her husband, Mark, found their 3,000 sq ft home in
JEWELLERY, FROM A SELECTION, AGMES, AMBIE STAPLETON AND SOPHIE BUHAI
2018. Previously owned by a bachelor, it wasn’t, she explains, initially MARIA WEARS SHIRT AND SKIRT, MARIA McMANUS. MULES, BOTTEGA VENETA.
“organised in the way a family would live”. As a working mother of
two girls – Luella, 11, and Poppy Rain, nine – the Irish fashion
designer is a pragmatist. “I’m big into a floor plan and how you’re
going to live – the practicality of what life is like,” she says. “The
one thing I had said when we were buying is that we’re not doing
a renovation with two little kids, but of course, we walk in here
and…” Before McManus knew it, she was carving up the two-bed
layout, adding a third bedroom and a laundry room, while keeping
a sense of expansiveness with the corridor – equipped with flush
hidden storage – that runs the length of the property.
They enlisted architect Thomas W Ryan to carry out the gut
renovation, including uncovering the original beams and brick
walls. Ryan had already worked with the couple on their relatively
modest 1,000 sq ft Montauk home. “He’s so collaborative and I’m
not easy – what I want is so specific,” she admits.
After 20-something years working in the fashion industry, mostly From top: the kitchen cabinetry is by a boutique New York company called
Henrybuilt, while the arabescato corchia marble counter serves as a natural
as a merchandiser for larger American brands, McManus felt gathering place for guests; in the bathroom, charcoal-coloured plaster walls offset
compelled to launch her eponymous line – which will arrive at > the white-oak parquet floors, which run throughout the apartment
74
“What I want is so
specific,” says designer
Maria McManus,
of her multitasking
Manhattan apartment.
Styling: PATRICK
MACKIE. Hair:
SABRINA SZINAY.
Make-up: KIKI
GIFFORD. Production:
MARCUS CHANG
A pair of 1970s sofas –
one, a Mario Bellini
Camaleonda and the
other by Percival Lafer
– pull focus in the living
room. Below: on the
bedroom walls, Farrow
& Ball’s Cornforth
White paint works well
alongside bare brick
LIVING
77
LIVING
“Corsages were a
“Sun protection is blossoming trend on the
vital for glowing skin s/s ’23 catwalks. Swap
health, even in the conventional floral
winter. ULTRA prints for something
VIOLETTE Sheen more unexpected,
Screen Hydrating Lip courtesy of DRIES
Balm SPF 50 [£16] VAN NOTEN.”
protects, with an added Shirt, £1,165
pink tint.”
silver
a hand-beaten
“Take a sip from KE tumbler, inspired
C
ROSE UNIA eorgian design.”
by a classic G 420
Cup, £
LIFE &
“The trend for bedazzling party flats is
going nowhere. I’ll be pairing these
ALAIA Mary Janes with distressed denim
and an XL puffer jacket.” Shoes, £830
“I’m circling
in on this
artisan-made
STYLE
candle from
BONA FIDE, Chic PICKS for the season
ahead, chosen by
lacquered in “Maximilian Davis’s interpretation of
vibrant yellow.” FERRAGAMO’s Wanda handbag
PIXELATE.BIZ
Vittorio, 12, holidayed amid modernist glamour in Suddenly, I saw her treatment of me in a
Tuscany with three generations of his industrialist family. whole new light. I began to see a character,
When he did his school entry exams, his parents hired a Kata, and to see her as a woman held hostage.
reflexologist to massage his pressure points as he fell asleep. My novel, Queen K, is about to be
Maya’s parents had recently purchased a fourth home, published. Strange that the job I took on to
a villa on the Côte d’Azur. They didn’t like the trees so support my writing became the very
ripped them out and had five ancient dogwoods delivered inspiration I needed. On my last night, I sat
from Spain. These arrived by steamboat, weeping white on the deck of a superyacht with the mother
blossom into the small port, while Maya did maths for who wouldn’t let me use the washing
six hours a day, right through her Easter holidays. (Her machine, until long after everyone else had
mother fed her so many vitamin supplements at breakfast, gone to bed. She had married very young,
it was only mid-afternoon that her nausea would subside.) she told me, “before I knew how to read a
Lin Lin drank only ionised water at pH 9.0. Serving person’s character”. I confided a recent
her tap water was a sackable offence. Her mother bought heartbreak. “You are free,” she said. “Stay
her a shih-tzu puppy called Merry and hired a trainer open, but choose kindness.” She opened her
Queen K by Sarah Thomas
to come over with six show dogs and demonstrate to arms to encompass the ocean, stretching far (Serpent’s Tail, £15) is
Merry what he too might one day achieve. as the eye could see. published on 13 February
81
Stella Maxwell, Rita Ora, Lorraine Pascale, Jodie
Turner-Smith, Edward Enninful, Neelam Gill,
Ikram Abdi Omar, Adut Akech, Susan Bender Fran Summers and
Whitfield, Irina Shayk and Leomie Anderson Grace Elizabeth
Sabrina Elba
Leah Williamson
Bianca Jagger Nikkie de Jager and Maya Jama
Jodie Turner-Smith
Emma Thynn
Zoe Saldana,
Naomi Campbell,
Edward Enninful,
Victoria Beckham
and Eva Longoria
82
FORCES for CHANGE
Pierpaolo Piccioli
and Simona Caggia
RISING TO
THE OCCASION
British Vogue’s inaugural FORCES
FOR CHANGE gala honours the
women making a DIFFERENCE
With a delectable, star-studded dinner at The Londoner,
NIC FORD; DARREN GERRISH; ROWBEN LANTION; GERMAN LARKIN
83
Purse, £475,
SMYTHSON
Coat, £775,
MARC CAIN
Bag, £790,
GIORGIO ARMANI
Sunglasses,
£420,
BOTTEGA
VENETA
DIOR Rouge
Dior Forever
Lipstick, £35
Bag, £550,
PAUL SMITH
NICOLE MARIA WINKLER
MOUNT ST RESTAURANT
This modern London eatery brings together
food and drink, craftsmanship and culture,
alongside world-class contemporary art.
41-43 Mount Street, W1
Trainers, £760,
HERMES
CHECKLIST
FEELING BLUE
It’s the Baguette, just not as we
know it, as this season Fendi’s
beloved bag is reimagined
by Tiffany & Co. Rendered
in the brand’s signature blue,
with accents of white gold
and diamonds, this irresistible
update is sure to become
a girl’s best friend.
Colour
POP
Simple SHAPES in mood-boosting
HUES set the TONE for the SEASON.
Edited by HOLLY TOMALIN.
Photographs by COLIN ROSS
SPOT ON
First revealed on the cruise
2023 runway, this season
we see part two of the
Capucines BB collaboration
between Louis Vuitton and
Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.
Bringing the artist’s signature
dots to the house’s monogram
canvas, the bags become
magical pieces of art that
transcend time and space.
Absolute
CLASSIC
Go back to BASICS with hero pieces
in timeless BLACK and WHITE
CHECKLIST
Parka, £1,050,
MONCLER
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HUNTER
Vogue, March 2020
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CHAMPION
BEAUTY &
WELLNESS
EDITED BY JESSICA DINER
ERDEM
JAMES COCHRANE
ERDEM
Backstage
CONFIDENTIAL
HEALTHY skin, ULTRA-SHINY
HAIR and show-stopping touches are
the order of the day, as LAUREN
MURDOCH-SMITH reports from
behind the scenes of S/S ’23
FACIAL EXPRESSION
A skincare-first approach was apparent at the shows – with some
brands creating mini pop-up spas to provide facials for the models. At
CHLOE
Erdem, for example, 111Skin aestheticians executed bespoke facials
complete with multiple masks, depuffing cryo tools and lymphatic
drainage. Common techniques included mixing skincare with make-up
and using fine layers of foundation for a bare glow. “There was no
blanket, uniform trend,” explains Hannah Murray, who led the make-up at
Chloé. “We didn’t look to correct blemishes or pigmentation.” At Eckhaus
JW ANDERSON
90
BEAUTY
HALPERN
SIMONE ROCHA
Below, from far left:
ISAMAYA FFRENCH
Browlacq Brow
Laminator, £30. NARS
High-Pigment Longwear
POSTER GIRL
Eyeliner in Bright Cobalt,
£21. PAT McGRATH
LABS Dark Star
Mascara in Aquamarine
Dream, £28
VICTORIA BECKHAM
CATWALK COMEBACK
JAMES COCHRANE; GORUNWAY.COM; PIXELATE.BIZ
91
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If there is one thing that velvety-soft and subtly
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architecture and angles eyelids. Finish with a sweep of
of the face via make-up. the golden highlighter on the
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plays with how light
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IDOLE ULTRA WEAR
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is what makes it so THE VINYL-FINISH MASCARA CHRISTIAN
brilliant and brightening. LOUBOUTIN BEAUTY LES YEUX NOIRS
A medium-coverage LIFT ULTIMA MASCARA, £45
formula, it is best patted This mascara lengthens and lifts to the
into the skin with fingers extreme, which is apt from the house that
for an undetectable, brought us the most vertiginous of heels. But
natural effect. more than being just a happy coincidence,
it does what it says, creating a long, thick
lash fringe thanks to an expertly shaped
silicone wand that coats each lash in a rich
black lacquer to rival any patent shoe.
Texture TIME
JAMES COCHRANE; PIXELATE.BIZ
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Clockwise from top: ZUVI Halo Hair
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LED Neck Mask, £130. CHANEL Le Lift
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Homely COMFORTS – be they
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YEAR refresh we’ve been waiting for.
By LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
TRESS TECH
The “skinification” of hair continues to take hold, with some of
the biggest haircare brands taking inspiration – and
innovation – from buzzy skincare rituals. Ouai’s Anti-Dandruff
Shampoo, £28, has two per cent salicylic acid and
propanediol caprylate to relieve the symptoms of dandruff.
Similarly, Kérastase’s Symbiose Micro-Peeling Cellulaire
Treatment, £35.50, is part of a six-piece range dedicated to
sensitive, dandruff-prone scalps. And Pureology’s new
Nanoworks Gold Shampoo, £23.50, and Conditioner,
£27.50, have been created with very dry, brittle hair in
MARTA BEVACQUA/TRUNK ARCHIVE; PIXELATE.BIZ
PEAK PERFORMERS
If you find yourself skiing this season, after heading back from a day on the pistes,
you might be in need of some deep massage. Muscle percussion specialists Therabody
have teamed up with the newly renovated destination of Le Fitz Roy in Val Thorens, in
the French Alps, to offer Therabody products and treatments to guests within their spa,
such as the Theragun Mini, £155, and RecoveryAir JetBoots, £799, plus a Therabody-
specific massage treatment for focused post-ski recovery. Beaumier.com
96
PHOTOGRAPH: RAFAEL PAVAROTTI. FASHION EDITOR: GRACE CODDINGTON.
HAIR: EUGENE SOULEIMAN. MAKE-UP: ANA TAKAHASHI. MODEL: ANOK YAI
FASHION &
FEATURES
100
From BOLLYWOOD to Hollywood, actor,
producer and entrepreneur PRIYANKA
CHOPRA JONAS has always fought to
MAKE her MARK. Yet nothing could have
prepared her for her JOURNEY to
MOTHERHOOD, finds JEN WANG.
Photographs by ZOE GHERTNER.
Styling by LAW ROACH
101
t the end of a winding, two-hundred-metre long driveway, inside white sofa below the soaring ceilings of her living room (a series
a sprawling Los Angeles estate that could be mistaken for a modern of mezzanines on the house’s first floor give new meaning to the
mountaintop monastery, with walls upon walls of oversized steel- idea of “open-plan”). “But now I feel I have a centre, a sense of
framed windows to take in the commanding views of the San calm, because every decision ends up being about her,” she says,
Fernando Valley below, Priyanka Chopra Jonas is feeling rather nodding to the coffee table. Among the art books and orchids
penned in. Although there’s plenty of space to spread out across there, Chopra Jonas has positioned an iPad Mini, connected to a
the 23,000 sq ft home she shares with her husband, Nick Jonas, camera in the nursery, directly in her line of sight. “I have, like,
the 40-year-old actor, producer and businesswoman seems happiest seven cameras in her room,” she says. “There’s really nothing more
this afternoon confined, “crisscross applesauce”, within a baby satisfying than seeing her face as soon as her eyes open.”
playpen in the family room, while her 10-month-old, Malti Marie, Nick wanders in from the kitchen. The 30-year-old recording
energised from a second nap, barrel-rolls around her to reach various artist and actor looks boyishly rumpled in a Casablanca track
baubles scattered about the floor. jacket, dad jeans and sneakers. “Can I order you two lunch?” he
“Good job! You made it to your toys!” Chopra Jonas cheers. asks in a quiet voice, listing off a few options. Priyanka lets him
Nicknamed “M” by her famous parents, the baby girl puts a dummy, pick, which seems slightly uncharacteristic for someone brought
clipped to her shirt, in her mouth all on her own, which elicits up from birth to be a decision-maker. At seven years old, she was
another congratulatory response (“Yes, ma’am!”) from Priyanka, sent to an all-girls boarding school in Lucknow, India, for three
who has taken the past year off from acting to focus on her favourite years and then, at 12, to America, bouncing from Iowa to New
role to date: being a mother. York to Indiana to Massachusetts, to live with relatives. “My
It’s a big change of pace. As Bollywood’s most successful parents” – mother Madhu and late father Ashok, both physicians
crossover star, since a career-launching win at the Miss World in the Indian army – “were such a big part of me being able to
beauty pageant in 2000, Priyanka has been, in her own words, have autonomy in my life and choices at a time when other people
“grinding”. Audiences who discovered her eight years ago, when were like, ‘Really?’” she says, calling her independent upbringing
she secured the lead role of Alex Parrish in ABC’s FBI drama “atypical” for an Indian family.
Quantico, may not even be aware that she had already appeared in And yet – dressed in a cosy rust-coloured knit top and trousers,
more than 50 films before she arrived in Hollywood. With her wearing no discernible make-up, chestnut hair in a low ponytail
production company, Purple Pebble Pictures, she’s launched a dozen – she admits to feeling guarded about this inter view.
film projects and, in 2021, added New York Times bestselling author “Vulnerabilities are difficult for me. You see me all over socials
to her résumé with her memoir, Unfinished. and all over the world, talking about all the things, but if you
This May, she’ll star in romantic comedy Love Again, with Sam actually look, I’ve really just scratched the surface,” she says,
Heughan and Céline Dion, playing Mira Ray, a woman who finds smoothing the ends of her honey-blond-streaked hair.
new love after losing her fiancé. Chopra Jonas suggests audiences Chopra Jonas surprised her 80 million-plus Instagram
may be surprised by the beloved French Canadian diva’s performance. followers in January of last year with a simple, picture-less post
“She’s so funny in this movie,” she gushes. Then, later this year, heralding Malti’s arrival: “We are overjoyed to confirm that we
there’s the Russo brothers’ thriller series Citadel, in which she’ll have welcomed a baby via surrogate. We respectfully ask for
play a spy opposite Richard Madden. The show is being touted as privacy during this special time as we focus on our family. Thank
the first of its kind, with spinoffs set in other countries and character you so much.” This succinct, somewhat boilerplate disclosure
crossovers galore. Much of her character’s backstory, she says, will garnered more than three million likes, and a seemingly equal
be told in the Amazon Prime Video franchise’s Indian offshoot. amount of outrage, nasty speculation and misogynistic judgement.
She’s always thought big. “It’s been 20 years of hustling and The first-time mother was accused, among other things, of
working at breakneck speed. I’ve always been like, ‘What’s the “outsourcing” her pregnancy, “renting” a womb out of vanity, and
next thing?’” she says, at the start of our interview, while Malti is acquiring a “ready-made baby”, which one critic implied the
still napping. With the ease of a confident hostess, she kicks off global entertainer wouldn’t have the same maternal attachment
her woven leather slippers and tucks up her feet on a kidney-shaped to as her surrogate. Was she expecting that reaction? > 106
102
“Vulnerabilities are difficult
for me. I’ve been really
protective of this chapter of
my life with my daughter.
Because it’s not about my
life only. It’s hers too.”
103
Slashed viscose-knit
dress, ALEXANDER
McQUEEN
104
“I get affirmations from
Nick all the time, to
remind me of my value.
He just sees through the
fog for me. He sees the
best in people.”
105
“I was in the OPERATING room
when she CAME out.
She was so SMALL. I didn’t know
if she would MAKE it or not”
“I’ve developed a tough hide when people talk about me,” she At this moment, Nick pokes his head in from the kitchen to
says, naturally a little rattled still. “But it’s so painful when they announce the food has arrived. The edge softens. “Hi, Babu,” she
talk about my daughter. I’m like, ‘Keep her out of it.’ I know what says, sweetly. “What did you get?” One thing about hanging out
it felt like to hold her little hands when they were trying to find with the Jonases is that they won’t allow a guest to go hungry. In
her veins. So no, she’s not going to be gossip.” She pauses. “I’ve the first hour of our meeting they’ve offered me tea, water, a
been really protective of this chapter of my life with my daughter. charcuterie plate laden with fruit, nuts and meat, more tea, and,
Because it’s not about my life only. It’s hers too.” finally, a chicken salad and Mediterranean dip, ordered from Gwyneth
Neither Priyanka nor Nick addressed the internet mob directly Paltrow’s Goop Kitchen. “Gwyneth, take my money,” Chopra Jonas
at the time (never mind that most of the ire was directed, predictably, jokes of how often they order from the nearby takeaway spot.
at Chopra Jonas and not her husband). Their decision to stay quiet Naturally, Chopra Jonas has professionalised her gift for feeding
was due in large part to a set of much greater difficulties emanating people as part owner of Sona, a chic Indian eatery that debuted
from the circumstances surrounding their child’s birth. in 2021 in New York City’s Flatiron District. The fledgling
Malti had to be delivered preterm, a full trimester before her restaurateur points out that I’m drinking tea from a cup – painted
due date. Babies born this early are considered “extremely” with green palm trees – that’s part of Sona Home’s first collection.
premature and often incur significant, long-term health issues. “I “I didn’t want paisley as a representation of Indian culture. It’s so
was in the OR [operating room] when she came out. She was so stereotypical to me that I go in the opposite direction.” Yet food
small, smaller than my hand,” Chopra Jonas recounts, her voice is also one of the aspects of motherhood she’s been struggling with
halting as she holds out her palm for scale. “I saw what the recently. Malti has just begun eating solids, and even though she
intensive-care nurses do. They do God’s work. Nick and I were is now healthy and thriving, her rocky beginnings have left an
both standing there as they intubated her. I don’t know how they indelible mark. “The first time she had a solid morsel,” Chopra
even found what they needed [in her tiny body] to intubate her.” Jonas says, “she gagged and I thought I’d killed her.” Having the
For the next three months, the new parents had to shuttle support of her mother and her in-laws, Kevin Sr and Denise Jonas,
daily to the neonatal intensive care unit (NICU), first at Rady has been a balm. “They talk me through a lot of this. Like, ‘They’re
Children’s Hospital in La Jolla, a few hours south of Los gonna gag. It’s normal.’ But because I’m a NICU mommy, the
Angeles, and then at Cedars-Sinai in LA. Malti’s birth coincided stakes are so high,” she says. “And I have to shed that. I will,” she
with the first omicron wave in the US, which meant only Chopra promises, her take-charge attitude returning.
Jonas and her husband were allowed to visit their newborn, Malti starts to stir on the iPad monitor. “I’ll go up really quickly,
despite the fact that both of their extended families had flown if you don’t mind,” she says. She returns a few minutes later with
in to help. “We spent every single day with her on my chest, her baby, who’s wearing all black except for the cream-coloured
on my husband’s chest,” Chopra Jonas says tenderly. “I didn’t headband bow on her downy head, and an armful of toys and books.
know if she would make it or not.” Malti’s face, which has been mostly obscured in the few photographs
Despite the turbulence of those early days with Malti, Priyanka’s Chopra Jonas has publicly shared of her, looks a lot like her father’s,
gaze is steady – her warm, wide-set brown eyes don’t break eye but in miniature. “Most people say she looks like Nick,” Chopra
contact – and her smoky voice stays calm when she recounts what Jonas confirms. “I don’t believe it,” she says, with a laugh. With her
happened. She prefers to keep private the specific circumstances baby in her arms, Priyanka is a different person – softer, less guarded.
that led her and her husband to surrogacy. “I had medical She takes me over to the white marble mandir, or temple, on the
complications,” she explains, so “this was a necessary step, and I’m far side of the living room, which sits across from their towering
so grateful I was in a position where I could do this. Our surrogate Christmas tree, shimmering in shades of silver and ruby red. With
was so generous, kind, lovely and funny, and she took care of this Shiva at its centre, this mandir is the first place Priyanka and Nick
precious gift for us for six months.” led Malti after bringing her home from the hospital. Saying their
But for the internet trolls who made a sport of theorising prayers with their daughter remains a nightly ritual.
why the couple enlisted a surrogate, Chopra Jonas’s tone takes Aside from the occasional date night and travel – they went
on an edge. “You don’t know me,” she says. “You don’t know what to Cabo San Lucas in Mexico for Priyanka’s 40th birthday and
I’ve been through. And just because I don’t want to make my Arizona to golf for Nick’s 30th, celebrations they planned for one
medical history, or my daughter’s, public doesn’t give you the another – the star couple reconnects through another ritual called
right to make up whatever the reasons were.” “show and tell”, which began on their honeymoon. Although it >
106
Embroidered sheath
dress, OFF-WHITE.
White-gold, diamond and
sapphire ring, BULGARI
107
Cashmere sweater with tie
detail and cashmere sweater
scarf, MICHAEL KORS
COLLECTION.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information.
Hair: TAMARA
McNAUGHTON.
Make-up: FARA
HOMIDI. Nails: KIMMIE
KYEES. Set design:
SPENCER VROOMAN.
Production: CONNECT
THE DOTS. Digital
artwork: STUDIO RM
108
“Hopefully I’ll OPEN doors for the
next GENERATION of GIRLS. I want
to commemorate the SUCCESS of
SOUTH ASIANS outside of India”
sounds risqué, the game is more a “getting to know you” exercise. Madhu’s asleep upstairs, recovering from rotator cuff surgery, but
“We did go zero to 60,” Chopra Jonas admits, about their notoriously soon will be down in time to feed her first grandchild dinner.
brief two-month courtship that resulted in a multiday, multi-event Mealtimes are a family affair. “When Malti eats there are, like,
wedding in Mumbai and Jodhpur less than seven months later. seven people around her. There will be my mom and her brother,
“We didn’t know each other’s careers before we met. Like, didn’t and then Nick’s brother and their parents” – Nick’s older brother,
know them well. So we do a show and tell once in a while and Joe, and his wife, actor Sophie Turner, live in the same Encino
share random things that we’ve done to show the other person neighbourhood, while his parents have a home one state over in
what we were like when we were younger,” she reveals. Las Vegas. Family support is what allows Priyanka and Nick time
Recently returned from a trip to India with Unicef, for which to themselves. “I’m like, ‘Mom, you got her? Great. We’re going
she’s a global ambassador, Priyanka and Nick played the game the off for the weekend.’” (One of the more absurd theories circulated
night before. They watched YouTube clips of old press interviews about the couple’s decision to use a surrogate was that their “busy
Chopra Jonas had done years ago. “There were just so many videos schedules” didn’t allow them time to conceive.)
of my savage remarks,” she says, shocked. “I was like, ‘What was Malti starts to fuss and emits one lone cry. “She needs to roam,”
I on when I was in my 20s?’” As she details how she and Nick declares her mother, so it’s off to the playpen. While Chopra Jonas
have arranged their travel schedules so that one parent is always apologises on more than one occasion for having to continue our
at home with Malti while the other is away working, he returns interview in what is effectively Malti’s fun room, it’s clear that
to the living room, holding a mug. being with her child is her happy place. Her voice gets faster and
“What are you drinking?” she asks, as Malti swats at the pages more animated, toggling between cooing at her baby – “Do you
of The Little Engine That Could. want to walk? Run? What do you want to do?” – and talking about
“A ginger chai something,” he says, unsure. her upcoming projects. A deft ability to move back and forth from
“Wow, drinking tea, huh?” mum mode to work mode goes a long way towards explaining
“It’s nice, though. It’s like a gingersnap. Sweet,” he says. As why she has worn so many hats in her career. She’s recently begun
Malti wiggles in her mother’s grip and pushes her book aside for to regard acting as merely her “day job”.
her favourite toy, a Baby Einstein Take Along Tunes, which she “After 20 years, I’ve reached a place where I’m like, ‘There’s
waves at Nick, he says softly, “Hi, Malti.” Then he looks at Priyanka got to be more than this…’ I have my own production house
and the two lock eyes, and this feeling that, for months, it was the where I can tell other people’s stories, where I’m working with
three of them against the world, against the odds, becomes palpable. new filmmakers who want to jump off the diving board – and
I ask him how he feels about fatherhood. “Nothing better,” he says. my shoulders are the diving board. I’m getting to create stories
“Overwhelming. The joy, the anxiety, all of the things.” After Nick with women behind the camera, which I almost never saw when
repairs upstairs for a fitting, Priyanka tells me that he’s the mature I was growing up.” With a first-look deal with Amazon Studios,
one in the relationship, despite his being 10 years her junior. and a comedy with Mindy Kaling in the works at Universal
“He’s a wise man beyond his years,” she says. “I get affirmations Pictures, she wants to continue breaking down racial and ethnic
from him all the time, to remind me of my value when I forget barriers in entertainment.
or when I get insecure. He just sees through the fog for me. He “Hopefully I’ll open doors for the next generation of girls.
sees the best in people.” After decades spent going from one job Hopefully we’ll see more Indian or South Asian actors in
to the next without a break, she credits Nick for helping her stay Hollywood. I want to commemorate the success and achievements
grounded in the moment. “‘Take a second. Take tonight to be of South Asians outside of India, in the international sphere,
excited about this award or be excited about this new deal,’” she because we deserve that position,” she asserts. “Why shouldn’t
says of the encouragement he offers. we be on the main stage?”
She insists that though she and her husband are temperamentally For now, though, the most important audience to Chopra
different people – “I talk a mile a minute and my husband does Jonas is right beside her on that playpen floor. And that little girl
not” – their values align when it comes to parenting. There is no is signalling, with a look towards the kitchen, that it’s time for
live-in nanny and, after 10 months, the couple has yet to hire a dinner, an almost imperceptible cue only her mother observes.
babysitter for the night. Priyanka’s mother has been living with “I want her to be able to look back and be proud of my choices,”
them for the past six months to help out. “My mom doesn’t know Chopra Jonas says, her eyes lighting up as she lifts Malti into her
what’s happening in her own life, except for the baby,” she says. arms. “I want to do right by her.”
109
With the ARRIVAL of SPRING/SUMMER 2023,
the VOGUE team – led by photographer
RAFAEL PAVAROTTI and fashion editor
GRACE CODDINGTON – are on hand to
show you THE WAYS of the new season
Put your back into
s/s ’23! Photographer
Rafael Pavarotti lends a
hand as Anok Yai sports
knits from Raf Simons’s
final collection.
111
The ordinary gets
extraordinary. It’s no
surprise hairstylist
Eugene Souleiman can’t
let go of Miu Miu’s
layered-up basics.
112
Zip it! The inflated
fastenings of Louis
Vuitton’s matching crop
top and skirt emphasise
spring’s play on
extreme proportions.
113
Ready for your close-up?
Make-up artist Ana
Takahashi complements a
Chanel look inspired by
French New Wave cinema.
114
In the American psycho-
drama that inspired Maison
Margiela’s collection, the
sweeping opera coat signals
main character energy.
115
The classic white shirt
gets sheared into an
ultra-precise minidress at
Valentino. Vertiginous
platforms essential.
116
If the shoe fits…
styling assistant Bianca
Parisotto slips our star
into buckled Dior heels.
Seersucker jacquard
dress and patent-leather
shoes, DIOR
117
Camera shy? Like
videographer Michael
Cukr, turn heads towards
the bouncing silhouette of
Loewe’s polo-shirt dress.
118
Strike a pose in Prada’s
one-piece, and make your
move in Mary Janes.
119
Eyes on the prize.
There’s no missing the
blinking anatomical
elements that inspired
Alexander McQueen’s
asymmetric gowns.
120
121
“The reason it still works
is because I am who I am,”
is how Ralph Lauren sums
up his enduring success.
“If you like my style you
will like my clothes.”
122
After more than five DECADES at
the very top, RALPH LAUREN
is still FLYING the red, white and
blue for the AMERICAN Dream,
as he tells SARAH HARRIS.
Photographs by SHARIF HAMZA.
Styling by DENA GIANNINI
124
“It’s mine, and it’s
something I built,” says
Lauren of his empire. “I’m
proud of it because I built it
with integrity and taste.”
Silk-gaberdine trouser
suit and twill shirt
125
126
“I did know that if I
wanted something, then
other people would want
it too,” says Lauren, who
had no formal training in
fashion. “It was all instinct.”
127
“I LIKE things that last. CLOTHES, CARS,
I like life THAT LASTS. I know life is short,
and I ENJOY what I HAVE”
kind of actors who would wear my clothes.” It’s why there is always in Colorado, a home in Jamaica to holiday in, and a vast collection
a narrative to Ralph Lauren: he’s a storyteller who conjures the kind of sports cars to play with – “a bad habit”, albeit a brilliant
of optimistic world that the world wants to live, to belong, in. investment said to be worth hundreds of millions.
He has spent his five-decade-plus career as master purveyor of As far as his own celebrity is concerned, Lauren now prefers a
the American Dream but he’s also the embodiment of it. His story quieter life. “I used to like to be stopped, to be looked at, but I don’t
is well documented: an aspirational young man who started out like it now. Sure, it’s nice to get seated in a restaurant, but I like
designing and selling neckties and saying no to Bloomingdale’s more privacy these days.” Obviously his success has given him wealth,
when it wanted to place an order, but on condition that he made but he has given plenty back: he has a long history of supporting
the ties narrower. Most other start-up designers would have fist- organisations dedicated to the fight against cancer. The company
pumped the air and asked, “How has donated millions to breast
narrow?” Not Lauren. “I said, cancer care and research, from
‘I can’t,’ and then I walked out,” Harlem to London’s Royal
he recalls of the story he never Marsden Hospital, and supports
tires of telling. “They came back initiatives increasing access to
six months later and said, ‘We education and advocacy for
want to buy your ties.’”That small underserved communities.
collection of ties racked up sales It’s clear he has no interest in
of half a million dollars in its first slowing down. He goes to the
year. “So they said, ‘What else can office five days a week and
you do?’ I was only a kid but I remains as driven as he has ever
knew ties weren’t enough; I knew been. “I like building new things,”
someone would knock them off, is how he puts it, whether that’s
so that’s why I did shirts next, and collections, restaurants or stores.
then womenswear. It wasn’t “I still do it because I don’t feel
trendy, but it was new, and that’s like quitting. I love what I do, it
what I’m about,” he summarises. feels good.” Our conversation,
“I told Bloomingdale’s, ‘Give me unsurprisingly, turns to succession,
a shop. Let me do it.’” He opened but he’s vague on the details. “I
his store there in 1969. have a lot of good talent, some
For all of his classicism, it have been here for 30 or 40 years;
is easy to underestimate how they’re very loyal because I take
pioneering Lauren was. “I never good care of them. But I really
wanted to do what everyone else don’t think about how the brand
was doing. If someone has already will look when I’m no longer here,
done something, then it doesn’t what it might be like in 20 or 30
interest me. I didn’t know that years. I’m not concerned about it.
any of it was going to be successful I design for forever, it’s not for
but I did know that if I wanted ‘fashion’. The clothes get better
something, then other people with age. It’s not about newness
would want it too. It was all instinct,” he says. He was the first or oldness, it’s about timelessness and the way you wear it that makes
American designer to open a freestanding boutique in the US (in it better; not necessarily the clothes but how you put them together.
Beverly Hills, 1971), and he had a presence in Europe way ahead I like things that last; clothes, cars, I like life that lasts. I know life
of any other American designer. Furthermore, he has long embraced is short, and I enjoy what I have, and I’ve enjoyed my life.”
diversity and inclusion, “because I believed it was right”, and his Before leaving, I wonder what he might have done had he not
casting has always included all ages and races – a concept most of been Ralph Lauren. “I’d be the doorman in my building,” he answers
the industry is only now beginning to understand. He was also the without hesitation. “I think about it often,” he admits, smiling.
first fashion designer to launch homeware, in 1983, another innovative “It’s true. Every morning he says, ‘Hello, Mr Lauren,’ and I think,
move that he simplifies with a shrug: “I mean, I know I’m not an ‘That could have been me.’ Why not? I’m not a genius. He has a
interior designer but I know how I want my homes to look.” family, he has a life, he has his struggles, and he’s happy. I just had
SIMBARASHE CHA
Of these there are several. He spends weekends with his family the opportunity to do everything I wanted to do in my life. I
at their mansion in Bedford, New York. (When asked the secret wanted to do something great. I wanted to be great. Do I feel
to his 58-year marriage he answers with a knowing smile, “You fortunate? Yes. Am I satisfied? Yeah, I think so,” he says, pausing.
would have to ask Ricky.”) There is also their 16,000-acre ranch “I don’t have any regrets, I’m very lucky.”
128
“It’s not about newness
or oldness, it’s about
timelessness and the
way you wear it that
makes it,” says Lauren
(pictured opposite).
130
A lesson in luxuriation.
Goddesses shine in
body-gliding gowns,
particularly when
they’re by Fendi.
132
Alexander McQueen’s
gown is lit up by flashes of
frill and fierce sparkle.
135
Flair of the phoenix.
Alberta Ferretti’s
flame-licked folds imbue
after-dark dressing with
immortal energy.
136
Beyond the veil. Dare to
bare in Dior’s gossamer
delicates, inspired by the
sartorial leanings of
Catherine de’ Medici.
139
SHINING
THROUGH
Today’s most LUMINARY
performers take DELIGHT in
some OLD HOLLYWOOD
glamour. Photographs by
GREG WILLIAMS. Styling
by DENA GIANNINI
140
TAYLOR RUSSELL
Bones and All
Who is your Old Hollywood icon?
I’m very into Louise Brooks, a
1930s icon. I also love Dona
Drake. She’s a beauty icon and
also super smart.
Is there anyone you’d like to play?
My answer for this is not
from a film, it’s from OutKast’s
Speakerboxxx/The Love Below.
Rosario Dawson’s interlude
on that album is the one thing
I wish I could do.
Silk-chiffon gown with
embroidered cape, GUCCI.
White-gold and diamond earring,
DIOR JOAILLERIE. Diamond
necklace and chrysoprase and
diamond ring, TIFFANY & CO.
Hair: MUSTAFA YANAZ.
Make-up: TYRON
MACHHAUSEN. With thanks
to HOTEL CHELSEA, New
York. London production:
DIANA EASTMAN. Los
Angeles production: RHIANNA
RULE. New York production:
PAIGE VITI. Digital artwork:
DTOUCH LONDON
141
She is HYPNOTIC
– delivering STEELY
GRANDIOSITY
and twitching
PARANOIA
CATE BLANCHETT
Tár
The way Cate Blanchett plays
conductor Lydia Tár is so real that
viewers have found it hard to
believe that Tár is not a biopic. In
this intense, absorbing descent
into the world of a fictional
renowned musician with a
spiralling personal life, Blanchett
is hypnotic – delivering steely
grandiosity and twitching
paranoia in a performance that
ranks with the best of her career.
Bustier embroidered with sequins
and crystals and silk-faille trousers,
GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE.
Stylist: ELIZABETH
STEWART. Hair: EAMONN
HUGHES. Make-up:
MARY GREENWELL
JAMIE LEE CURTIS
Everything Everywhere
All At Once
What’s the best advice you’ve had?
I’m an old woman. The advice
would have been long ago,
probably from my mom. I think she
said, “Just be you, even though it’s
going to feel bad a lot of the
time,” which it did.
What advice would you give to
your younger self?
The same advice I give young
people who want to do what I get
to do: “It’s so f**king fast – you will
be shocked at how fast it all is. Try
to be in the present moment.”
Velvet and tulle dress, TOM
FORD. Bracelets, ALEXIS
BITTAR. Hair: SEAN JAMES.
Make-up: GRACE AHN. With
thanks to the GETTY VILLA
MUSEUM, Los Angeles
MICHEAL WARD
Empire of Light
What has been your most embarrassing moment on set?
I was really scared of the pigeon I had to work with in Empire of Light.
Obviously it was really tiny, but it felt like the biggest thing in the room.
Have you ever stolen anything from set?
On Empire of Light, I really wanted a top, but they wouldn’t give it to me.
Then my main costume woman bought me one that looked exactly like it,
which was amazing, so I didn’t need to nick it. But I was planning a heist.
Velvet jacket and silk bow tie, GIORGIO ARMANI.
Cotton shirt, CANALI. Grooming: EYESHA YATES.
With thanks to THE RITZ LONDON
143
NINA HOSS
Tár
What’s hardest about being a
creative in this decade?
Finding people to finance the
things you want to do, to be part
of good, challenging storytelling.
What do you dislike most about it?
Getting up at three o’clock in the
morning. And all the waiting.
Faille coat and faille catsuit,
DOLCE & GABBANA.
Crystal-embellished shoes,
GIANVITO ROSSI. Diamond
earrings and pink-sapphire, citrine
and diamond brooch, TIFFANY
& CO. Hair: BEN SKERVIN.
Make-up: MARY WILES.
Nails: SREYNIN PENG.
With thanks to CHATEAU
MARMONT, Los Angeles
HARRIS DICKINSON
Triangle of Sadness
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever received?
At a party once, I was nervous because I hadn’t been in that sort of
industry setting before. Denzel Washington walked in. He locked eyes
with me and walked over and said, “Hey, man, lighten up.” And I was
like, “Yeah, I do need to lighten up!”
What do you think you’d be doing if you weren’t an actor?
Carpenter. Less self-indulgent.
Velvet tuxedo jacket, CANALI. Silk shirt, DOLCE & GABBANA. Steel
watch, TIFFANY & CO. Ring, Harris’s own. Grooming: ELLE
FAVORULE. With thanks to CHATEAU MARMONT, Los Angeles
144
“If I weren’t an actor,
I’d be HOMESTEADING
on a coastal FARM on an
ISLAND off Vancouver”
STEPHANIE HSU
Everything Everywhere All At Once
Which actor do you most aspire to be like?
I love Joaquin Phoenix so much. He seems like someone who is able to
stretch his range with every project, and one of the few greats in this era.
What do you think you’d be doing if you weren’t an actor?
I’d be homesteading on a coastal farm on an island off Vancouver. I
won’t tell you which one because I don’t want you to buy property there.
Crystal-embellished jacket and tuxedo trousers, ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
Vinyl mules, GIANVITO ROSSI. Diamond earrings and diamond ring,
CHOPARD. Hair: DALLIN JAMES. Make-up: HINAKO.
With thanks to THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS
DIEGO CALVA
Babylon
Tell us about your first audition.
I was a boom operator. The actor
didn’t show up, so it was like,
“Diego, we can use an actor!”
Any embarrassing moments on set?
Shooting a violent scene, when my
mother was on set watching me in
the monitor for the first time. I heard
her screaming, “No, Diego! No!”
Who would you like to play you in
a movie about your life?
Me – why not?
Flannel suit, tie, and pocket square,
ANDERSON & SHEPPARD.
Cotton shirt, JOHN HENRIC. Tie
pin, TATEOSSIAN. Grooming:
HEE SOO KWON. With
thanks to CHATEAU
MARMONT, Los Angeles
KATE HUDSON
Glass Onion: A Knives
Out Mystery
Which actor do you most admire?
I just love Cate Blanchett so much.
She inspires me with her bravery.
What’s the best advice you’ve had?
As a successful woman, you are
tabloid fodder. My dad Kurt said,
“As long as they spell your name
right, just don’t listen. Put your
head down. Do good work.”
Sequined crochet dress, COPERNI.
Knickers, WACOAL. Satin shoes,
STUART WEITZMAN. Pearl
and diamond earrings, TIFFANY
& CO. Headscarf, stylist’s own.
Hair: CAMERON RAINS.
Make-up: TONYA BREWER.
With thanks to CHATEAU
MARMONT, Los Angeles
VIOLA DAVIS
The Woman King
As soon as you see Viola Davis – blade in hand, shoulders by her ears
– in the first moments of The Woman King, you know the Hollywood
trailblazer is about to tear through Gina Prince-Bythewood’s historic epic
about an all-female unit of warriors defending the historic African
kingdom of Dahomey. Davis plays war-hardened but emotionally
wounded leader General Nanisca with unstoppable swagger.
Faille corset gown, ALEXANDER McQUEEN. Ring, BOUCHERON.
Stylist: ELIZABETH STEWART. Make-up: AUTUMN
MOULTRIE. Hair: JAMIKA WILSON
146
MICHELLE YEOH
Everything Everywhere
All At Once
When was your funniest time on set?
In Everything Everywhere when I
had these frigging dildos being
slung in my face.
What’s your “I’ve made it” moment?
Arriving in London, and an
immigration officer asked, “What
are you doing here?” I said, “I’m
here to work.” He’s like, “What
are you working on?” “A Bond
movie…” “Oh, my God!”
Tweed jumpsuit and strass earrings,
CHANEL. Cotton shirt, TOM
FORD. Tourmaline, garnet, spinel,
onyx and diamond ring, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS. Ring (on
ring finger), Michelle’s own. Hair:
BERTRAND W DELACOURT.
Make-up: MAI QUYNH. With
thanks to THE PENINSULA
BEVERLY HILLS
When SPIELBERG
CASTS you as a
character inspired by
his MOTHER,
you know you’re going
to have to bring
YOUR A-GAME
MICHELLE WILLIAMS
The Fabelmans
When Steven Spielberg casts you
to play a character inspired by his
mother, you know you’re going to
have to bring your A-game. And
Michelle Williams does just that in
The Fabelmans. Her enchantingly
kooky performance, in the
director’s mostly autobiographical
film about coming of age, is
a scene-stealer.
Feather cape, DOLCE &
GABBANA. Silk gown,
GALVAN LONDON.
Archive diamond and emerald
necklace and archive diamond
bracelets, TIFFANY & CO.
Rings, Michelle’s own.
Hair: CHRIS McMILLAN.
Make-up: ANGELA LEVIN.
With thanks to THE
BEEKMAN, New York
148
LETITIA WRIGHT
Black Panther: Wakanda Forever
What’s the hardest thing about
being a creative in this decade?
Social media and having to keep
up with it. I love the way actors of
past generations could just do the
work and kind of disappear.
What’s your “I’ve made it” moment?
Going into the Apple Store to buy
a laptop – you know, full cash.
Slashed wool jacket and cotton shirt,
ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
Tights, AMINA MUADDI &
WOLFORD. Leather loafers,
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN.
Hair: ALEXANDER ARMAND.
Make-up: JORDANA DAVID.
With thanks to THE
MILLENNIUM BILTMORE
LOS ANGELES
JEREMY POPE
The Inspection
How would you describe your job?
Professional liar.
What’s your “I’ve made it” moment?
I went to my grandfather’s house
to surprise him, and on his coffee
table he had all the cuttings of my
New York Times articles and any
type of review. He had gone out,
printed them, got them laminated.
I was like, “He’s so proud.”
Mohair/wool suit, PRADA.
Corsage, stylist’s own. Grooming:
JAIME DIAZ. With thanks to THE
PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS
EDDIE REDMAYNE
The Good Nurse
What has been your most embarrassing moment on set?
In the Fantastic Beasts movie, doing the Erumpent mating dance. It was
humiliating anyway, but I managed to rip my trousers. My arse was on
show for everyone to see on a night shoot in the middle of Watford.
What’s the best piece of advice you've had?
What Chekhov wrote to his actress wife, Olga Knipper: “Take life step by
step, slowly, slowly, pace by pace, and leave the competition to others.”
Three-piece wool suit, POLO RALPH LAUREN. Neckerchief, RALPH
LAUREN PURPLE LABEL. Shirt, JOHN PEARSE.
Socks, PANTHERELLA. Vintage shoes, CONTEMPORARY
WARDROBE. Hat, LOCK & CO. Grooming: PETRA SELLGE.
With thanks to THE RITZ LONDON
150
“ I STOLE a necklace
– one of DIANA’S
from the set of
THE CROWN”
EMMA CORRIN
My Policeman, Lady
Chatterley’s Lover
What’s your funniest time on set?
Filming a miniseries called Retreat
in New Jersey. I was getting my
wisdom teeth, so they put me on
really strong US painkillers. I was
so out of it that I thought I was
being attacked by bees. They had
to send me home because, every
take, I was swatting bees away.
Have you stolen anything from set?
Yes, I stole a necklace – one of
Diana’s from the set of The Crown.
Cady top with feathers, cotton and
silk shirt, jersey knickers, and
leather loafers, MIU MIU. Tights,
WOLFORD. Rose-gold, onyx and
diamond earring and tricolour gold
ring, CARTIER. Hair: DANIEL
MARTIN. Make-up: GINA
KANE. With thanks to UNION
CHAPEL, London
DANIELLE
DEADWYLER
Till
Which person has been the most
influential on your career?
My mother. She’s the one who
noticed the intuitive spirit of
creativity. She’s the one who
harnessed it through childhood
and encouraged it into adulthood.
What do you dislike about acting?
I don’t think I dislike anything.
You’re supposed to have the nasty,
hurtful, wounding portion in the
ecstatic, erotic life of it all.
Jacquard body, top with bead
embroidery, and skirt, GIORGIO
ARMANI. Crystal-embellished
sandals, AQUAZZURA. Diamond
bracelet, TIFFANY & CO. Hair:
ARAXI LINDSEY. Make-up:
AUTUMN MOULTRIE.
With thanks to CHATEAU
MARMONT, Los Angeles
JESSIE BUCKLEY
Women Talking
Director Sarah Polley has described Jessie Buckley as magnetic on the set
of Women Talking – crew members would come to watch her perform.
The adaptation of Miriam Toews’s novel – a true story about a group of
women who try to escape an isolated religious community – stars Buckley
alongside Claire Foy, Rooney Mara and Frances McDormand. Buckley’s
raw, affecting turn as Mariche, a victim of abuse, proves that she’s
capable of incredible things.
Wool jacket, BOTTEGA VENETA. Jewellery, Jessie’s own. Hair:
GARETH BROMELL. Make-up: FLORRIE WHITE
152
THUSO MBEDU
The Woman King
What’s been the hardest thing about being a creative in this decade?
The self-tapes that were required during the pandemic. I hate self-tapes.
What do you dislike most about acting?
People thinking they can have an opinion about your personal life.
Embellished midi-dress and headscarf, PACO RABANNE.
Velvet shoes, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI. Hair: SHARIF POSTON.
Make-up: REBEKAH ALADDIN. With thanks to TCL CHINESE
THEATRE, Los Angeles
BEN WHISHAW
Women Talking
What do you love about acting?
Somehow forgetting yourself and
being lost in imagination.
Have you stolen anything from set?
Three or four pairs of socks that
belonged to the character Q.
They were very nice socks.
What advice would you give
your younger self?
I’d like him to give me some
advice. I feel a bit lost now. I think
I knew more when I was younger.
Wool suit, PAUL SMITH. Silk
shirt, OLIVER BROWN.
Cufflinks, TATEOSSIAN.
Grooming: JODY TAYLOR and
NATHALIE ELENI. With thanks
to THE LANGHAM, London
DEBORAH
LUKUMUENA
Last Dance
What’s the hardest thing about
being a creative in this decade?
Creating without much
representation, especially in
France – there’s not a lot of Black
women or men in the industry.
Who would you like to play you in
a movie about your life?
Oh, my God. Viola Davis.
Fringed crêpe dress, TALLER
MARMO, at Matchesfashion.com
and Net-a-porter.com. Velvet mules,
JIMMY CHOO. Headpiece,
EMILY-LONDON. Gold and
diamond earrings, gold and
diamond brooch, and diamond-set
vine motif rings, TIFFANY & CO.
Hair: KIERON LAVINE.
Make-up: ESTHER EDEME.
With thanks to THE
BEAUMONT, London
SADIE SINK
The Whale
Who would you like to play you in a movie about your life?
If we can manipulate time, a young Kate Winslet.
Have you ever stolen anything from set?
I’ve never stolen anything from set but I politely begged to take home the
Walkman my character Max uses in season four of Stranger Things.
Embroidered tulle top, EMPORIO ARMANI. Beaded hair accessory,
GUCCI. Gold and diamond ring, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY.
Hair: LACY REDWAY. Make-up: TYRON MACHHAUSEN.
With thanks to JW MARRIOTT ESSEX HOUSE, New York
154
CLAIRE FOY
Women Talking
Who would you like to play you in
a movie about your life?
156
GABRIELLE UNION
The Inspection
What do you think you’d be doing
if you weren’t an actor?
I was studying for law school
before I casually got into acting
and modelling. I guess I’d have
got into a second-tier law school
and be practising law, miserably.
Tell us about your first audition.
It was Saved by the Bell: The New
Class. I auditioned for “mistletoe
girl number two” and I got it. And
I had a made-up résumé.
Sequined gown with cape,
HALPERN. Diamond earrings
and diamond bracelet, GRAFF.
Hair: LARRY SIMS. Make-up:
VINCENT OQUENDO.
With thanks to JW MARRIOTT
ESSEX HOUSE, New York
PAUL MESCAL
Aftersun
Tell us about your first audition.
It was for The Phantom of the
Opera. I sang “I Can See Clearly
Now”. I was incredibly nervous
and was told to stand up straight
and look strong. My whole body
was shaking – I was a hot mess.
What do you think you’d be doing
if you weren’t an actor?
Gaelic football. I would’ve broken
many more bones in my body, so
I’m happy to not be going down
that avenue.
Embroidered wool suit and silk
poplin shirt, ALEXANDER
McQUEEN. Tie, THE SAVILE
ROW COMPANY. White-gold
watch, CARTIER. Grooming:
LIZ TAW. With thanks to THE
SAVOY HOTEL, London
“I was told to stand
up STRAIGHT and look
STRONG. My whole
body was shaking –
I was a HOT MESS”
VICKY KRIEPS
Corsage
Stomping, snapping and
finger-flipping, Vicky Krieps storms
her way through Corsage as
Austrian Empress Sisi as she turns
40. The unconventional biopic,
directed by Marie Kreutzer, has
been a standout with critics since it
landed at Cannes last year.
Following the 19th-century royal
as she sets fire to her public
image, Krieps’s trigger-happy take
on the empress is hard to tear your
eyes from.
Cotton-lace dress and straw hat,
DANIELA VILLA. Hair and
make-up: ATENEA TELLEZ
NAOMI ACKIE
I Wanna Dance with Somebody
What’s the hardest thing about
being a creative in this decade?
Social media. Not a big fan.
What has been your most
embarrassing moment on set?
When I forget my lines in front of
actors I admire. I did it with
Stanley Tucci on I Wanna Dance
with Somebody. I was like, “I’m
sorry, this has never happened
before,” and he was like, “Ugh,
don’t lie, you just didn’t learn it…”
Satin blouse, SAINT
LAURENT BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. Tulle gloves,
MISCREANTS. Crystal brooches
(worn as hair clips), BUTLER &
WILSON. Pearl and diamond
necklace and multistrand pearl
necklace, CHANEL HIGH
JEWELLERY. Hair: NICOLA
HARROWELL. Make-up:
KENNETH SOH. Nails:
CHIARA BALLISAI.
With thanks to THE MAINE
MAYFAIR, London
159
KERRY CONDON
The Banshees of Inisherin
What do you think you’d be doing
if you weren’t an actor?
I’d probably work with animals or
give facials – but I don’t know if I
could listen to my clients moaning
about their problems.
What’s your “I’ve made it” moment?
It happened really recently,
actually. I bought a farm. I’ve
always wanted to farm. I turned
my horses loose in the field and
you could see them thinking, “We
can run all the way down here!”
Silk-satin dress, ERMANNO
SCERVINO. Hair: DAVY
NEWKIRK. Make-up: KIRIN
BHATTY. With thanks to the
GETTY VILLA MUSEUM,
Los Angeles
BILL NIGHY
Living
What do you think you’d be doing if you weren’t an actor?
I was supposed to be a priest – my grandmother wanted to throw one
back for God. But they told me you’d hear a voice, and it never came.
Who would you like to play you in a movie about your life?
Julia Roberts, without question. She’s one of my favourite actors of all
time. If she were not available, then Scarlett Johansson would be a pretty
close second. And if neither of them was available, then maybe Zac
Efron? Or anyone else who’s impossibly good-looking. Paul Mescal?
Wool suit, THE ANTHOLOGY. Shirt, MARGARET HOWELL.
Glasses, CUTLER & GROSS. Tie, Bill’s own. Grooming:
NADIA ALTINBAS. With thanks to THE RITZ LONDON
160
“ When THEY
make me
ROLL in the
mud or put
FAKE BLOOD
on me…”
DOLLY DE LEON
Triangle of Sadness
What do you dislike about acting?
Scenes that make you physically
dirty: when they make me roll in
the mud or put fake blood on me.
Who is your Old Hollywood icon?
Bette Davis. I’ve adored her ever
since watching What Ever
Happened to Baby Jane? She’s
brave and strong and she’s such a
fighter but she also seems like a
cool person to be friends with.
Feather coat, CHRISTIAN
COWAN. Embroidered lamé dress,
GIVENCHY. Crystal-embellished
sandals, CHRISTIAN
LOUBOUTIN. Gold, platinum
and diamond bracelet and tsavorite
and diamond ring, TIFFANY &
CO. For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information. Hair:
ARTHUR JOHNS. Make-up:
KELLY GOLDSACK. With
thanks to THE MILLENNIUM
BILTMORE LOS ANGELES
CELESTIAL
BEING
162
A show of hands! It’s
time to inhabit the
Year of the Rabbit, and
commemorating wearing
Louis Vuitton – beside Cai
Guo-Qiang’s Snow Lotus
No1 (2020) – gets our vote.
163
Symbolic sparkle. Valentino’s
shimmering crimson and
aquamarine sequins denote
growth and prosperity.
164
Stroke of fortune.
Celebrate in the
featherlight folds of this
dress from Maximilian
Davis’s Ferragamo debut,
which is set against Cai’s
Welcoming Pine: Project
for the Winter Olympics
Opening Ceremony (2022).
165
Come into bloom. Like
orchids, peach blossoms
and Cai’s Pink Poppy No2
(2021), Simone Rocha’s
florals have festive flair.
166
Wishing-tree ready.
We’re making our offerings
to the future in the
merriest of dramatically
draped magenta Versace.
167
A (zodiac) sign of the
times? Keep your
personality out of the
shadows with Chanel’s
golden party dress.
168
Close observation. We’re
revelling in moon cycle
rituals in Peter Do’s
jubilantly draped dress,
as Poppy Hallucination:
Year of Rabbit (2022)
dominates Cai’s studio.
The striking shapes and
colours of the clothes in
this story are set off by
the work of artist Cai
Guo-Qiang, who hosted
the shoot at his 28-acre
property in New Jersey.
Born in Quanzhou, China,
Cai came of age amid the
gunfire and cannon blasts
of the Cultural Revolution
– an experience that would
later inform the explosion
events and inventive use of
gunpowder at the heart
of his practice.
169
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property? It’s time to get your skis on and explore the
finest homes across the Alps and beyond
CHALET ST CHRISTOPHE,
SWITZERLAND
One of Verbier’s largest private chalets, this
13-bedroom residence can be subdivided into
two halves or combined to create one huge
family home. With mountain views from all
sides, its interiors are warm and inviting, with
high, beamed ceilings, open fireplaces and
fantastic living spaces. POA.
Sphere Estates: 020 3617 1360
I
f you love to ski, the idea of owning Indeed, properties in the mountains within walking distance of the centre
a chalet in your favourite resort remain perennially popular, no matter of Verbier. At over 13,000 square feet,
is likely to be somewhere at the what the political or economic climate. it’s one of the resort’s largest private
top of your wish-list. There’s the ‘Prime residential ski property demand homes, and with 13 bedrooms, there’s
appeal of simply jumping on a plane has remained undeterred,’ says Jeremy plenty of space to host friends and
and arriving in a cosy home-from- Rollason, head of Savills Ski. ‘It’s an family. Set across four floors, it has
home, with no need to lug around attractive store for accumulated wealth, panoramic mountain views towards
cumbersome ski equipment or face the as well as a sentimental, life-aspiration the Trient Glacier and the French
prospect of booking accommodation purchase for many.’ and Italian borders. The generously
SILVERSTONE LODGE, FRANCE
Located in the smart resort of Val D’Isère, Silverstone
Lodge is a collection of seven apartments set on the slopes.
Ranging from three to seven bedrooms, they have high
ceilings and a rustic look, and their private ski rooms give
easy access straight to the slopes. From €4.8 million.
Savills: 00 33 629 382 668
CHAMONIX, FRANCE
Try a different approach to property
with August Collection’s shared-
ownership scheme. You can own
a share in five properties across
Europe – such as this elegant, newly
renovated apartment in Chamonix,
with a private sauna in the main
bedroom – for a single fee. August’s
prices start from €280,000.
augustcollection.co.uk
Annecy | Courchevel 1850 | Courchevel 1650 | Méribel | Morzine | Val d’Isère | Verbier | Zell am Zee
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THE LETTINGS
EXPERT
Based in Knightsbridge
and boasting an
impressive network
of contacts, Tunstall
Property is perfectly
placed to help
both landlords and
prospective tenants in
prime central London.
LORDING IT ‘The strength of the
Overlooking the historic Lord’s Cricket Ground and close to lettings in this area
Regent’s Park, One St John’s Wood is a collection of striking new (and indeed across the
apartments in one of central London’s most desirable residential UK) has been loudly
reported in the press
neighbourhoods. Built by Regal London, the 112 properties
this year, with Savills and
include an elegant penthouse that’s been decorated by the
Knight Frank reporting
interior design company Angel O’Donnell, with plenty of bespoke
annual growth of more than 12 per cent,’ says the company founder,
elements and a warm, contemporary atmosphere. Finishing Mark Tunstall. If you have a property that you’d like to rent out or
touches come from the special One St John’s Wood are looking for a place to live, he’s got the inside knowledge to help
home-accessory collection that has been curated by the you navigate this rapidly changing market.
homeware brand Kalinko – a fitting way to celebrate the launch For more information, visit tunstallproperty.co.uk
of this smart new project.
For more information, visit regal-london.co.uk
Describe your
fail-safe everyday
outfit. “A looser
pair of vintage
Levi’s and Dr
Martens loafers
with a cashmere
SWEATER. Oh,
and big Gucci
sunglasses that cover
half my face.”
Sweater, £1,330,
THE ROW, at
Net-a-porter.com
Chamberlain do?
What should I listen to
while working out? “I
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listen to sad music, so
I’d say Death Cab for
Cutie, on mint-green
APPLE AirPods
Max.” £549
Advice on LIFE and style from the Gen Z phenomenon