Plain Vanilla Sock Pattern

v1.3

More knitting patterns available on:

www.nimble-needles.com
Introduction
Dear Knitter,
I love knitting socks.
I do believe they are
one of the easiest fitted
garments you can knit.
Plus, they are usually
quite fast to finish and
it's super easy to adapt a
pattern to your style.
This plain vanilla sock pattern is my go-to pat-
tern. The one I always come back to whenever
I need or want to knit a fast pair of socks.
I learned to knit in the round on double-point-
ed knitting needles. I know, a lot of people are
intimidated by handling 5 needles at the same
time. If you are one of them, kindly check out
my detailed tutorial on how to knit in the round.
On my blog, you will also find a post with 10
tips and tricks that help me achieve neater re-
sults when knitting in the round.
If you know how to knit with the magic loop and
it suits you, you are more than welcome to finish
this pattern with the technique of your choice.
© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved
I personally believe dpns are easier to handle. But
hey, in knitting it all boils down to your personal
preferences and not to what other people say.
With that being said, this is a step-by-step reci-
pe and not a pattern that comes in 20 different
sizes. In my opinion that is a dead-end when it
comes to knitting (simple) socks.
The same amount of time you need to invest
in knitting swatches and trying to meet gauge,
can rather be used to adjust a recipe to your
individual body configuration.
Oh and one more thing, this pattern comes with
instructions for stripes. But you can also just
knit them in one color and skip those sections.
Happy knitting,
Norman
PS: I recorded a video of me knitting this pattern.
You can watch it here.
PPS: Remember to comment on the correspond-
ing blog post if you have any questions. That way,
other knitters can see my answers as well.
Page 2
Materials: Size & Gauge:
• 100-150 grams of a fingering weight sock yarn My shoe size is EU 41.5 (or a 9 US). And the
suitable for needles size 2.5 mm. I am using a base instructions will be for that shoe size.
very lovely yarn by Samelin Dyeworks*.
• Double-pointed knitting needles 2.0 mm; I
am using the Knitter‘s Pride Karbonz needles*
they are by far my favorite dpns for these small
Gauge for a 5 x 5 cm (2x2 in)swatch
diameter projects.
in stockinette stitch in the round:
• Scissors & a tapestry needle* 17 stitches x 25 rows
• a measuring tape*
• a crochet hook 2mm (optional)
• stitch markers*

Most sock patterns use very thin yarn and equally thin needles. If you want to wear your sock every
day (and not just in winter), then you have no other choice to produce a light and breathable fabric
that doesn't turn your shoes into a sauna. Still, this sock recipe will work out with DK weight yarn
(and 3.00 mm needles) just as fine. As a beginner, it might be tempting to buy even bigger needles
and heavier yarn. The result, however, will probably be not wearable as anything else but slippers.
Kindly note that these socks use three different colors. I did this so I can show you how to knit
the popular stripes. If you like the way that looks, then you need one 100 grams skein and two 50
grams skeins of the same yarn base (don't mix brands!!!). But you can also knit with just one color
and it will be even easier.
As a rule of thumb, I'd say you need a total of 100 grams for shoe sizes 42 (9.5 U.S.) or less. For
bigger feet, 150 grams will be needed. If you are doing stripes and the contrasting cuff/heal, you
will have to get at least 3 skeins anyway with probably plenty to spare.

*affiliate link

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 3

Knitting techniques used:
These plain vanilla socks probably don't require you to learn a lot of new techniques. You are just
using basic stitches and increases. If it's your first time knitting in the round, that will certainly be
your biggest challenge. With a bit of patience, you'll easily master the new technique. Just give it a
bit of time and don't give up after the first 3 rounds because those are always difficult.

K = knit Check this tutorial in case you don’t know how

P = purl to read knitting patterns yet. And here’s a help-
K2tog = knit two together ful and very detailed glossary of knitting terms
SSK = Slip, slip, knit with the most common (and uncommon) abbre-
St st = stockinette stitch viations.
A standard longtail cast on
And the kitchener stitch for finishing.
RS = right side Feel free to comment on the corresponding blog
WS = wrong side post in case you have any further questions
(that way, everyone can see your questions and
While I typically knit with dpns, you may also my answers).
finish this pattern using the magic loop technique
for knitting in the round. You might also check out
my tutorial on how to weave in ends in case that
is something you are struggling with.

Instructions between two asterisks (*) indicate you

have to repeat that section over and over again
until the end of a round or the indicated spot.

If you still require help with these or other knitting techniques, please visit my website where
you'll find step by step tutorials and videos for almost all important knitting techniques.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 4

Finding your size/cast on requirments
As a start, you need to figure out how many stitches you need to cast on. And THE ONLY WAY to find
your answer is knitting a swatch, and then do some easy calculations. While there are sock charts
(or patterns), you will have to knit a swatch to verify your gauge (and knit a second one, if you were
off). So, I think it's much easier & more reliable to do it yourself. I have a very detailed tutorial sho-
wing you how to figure out the cast on requirements for socks but here's the brief version:

Step 1: Cast on 30 stitches and knit 30 rows in
plain stockinette stitch using the same yarn and
needles you want to knit your socks with. Then
bind off.
Step 2: Wash and block your finished swatch
(important!).
Step 3: Count how many stitches you need to
cover 5 cm / 5 in.
Step 4: Measure your feet at their widest point
(typically around the ankle/heel).
Step 5: Do some easy math:
• Divide the number of stitches you've counted
by the width you measured. (e.g. 17st/5 cm =
3.4 st/cm)
• Multiply the resulting factor times the circum-
ference of your foot. (e.g. 3.4st/cm x 24 cm =
81.6 st
• Subtract ~15% to account for the negative
ease of the st st. (e.g. 81.6st x 0,85 = 69.4 st)
• Round down to the nearest number divisable
by 4. (e.g. -> 68 st)
Note: This is a simplified version. Normally,
you would have to knit a proper swatch in the
round, figure out the ease of your swatch, etc.
As this is quite difficult to get right, I feel it's
much easier to verify your results by trying on
your socks in the making after round 30. As a
beginner, that's still faster than trying to knit
the perfect swatch.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 5

Cuff & Leg
Once you've figured out how many stitches you need to cast on, pick up your double-pointed knit-
ting needles and start knitting the cuff.
Step 1: Cast on as many stitches as you need
plus one using two needles to create a really
stretchy edge using a standard long tail cast on.
Then distribute these stitches to four needles.
For reference: I am casting on 68 stitches for a
men's size 8.5 (U.S.)
Step 2: Join in the round by slipping the first
stitch on the first needle to the last needle.
Then pass the (now) second stitch on the last
needle over the first (a bit like a bind-off).
(here's a full tutorial on how to join knitting in
the round).
Rounds 1-24: *k2, p2*
This should produce a cuff that is around 5 cm
(2 in) high. If you are knitting with a different
gauge, you may need more or less rounds; Also
do consider that significantly bigger feet may
benefit from an even larger cuff.
Note: The first 1-4 rounds on double-pointed
needles will always feel extremely precarious.
That's normal (even for me), and I urge you to
persevere. Once you covered a centimeter or
so, things will stabilize tremendously!
Rounds 25-onwards: Knit across all stitches.
IMPORTANT: After 30 rows or so, you should
try on your sock in the making. You can either
slip all stitches to a spare circular needle or
thread a bit of scrap yarn on a tapestry needle
and pull it through all stitches (to create a ma-
keshift stitch holder).
© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved
That way, you can check if your cuff fits the
way it should, and whether you can get it past
your heel or not. If things don't fit (it feels tight
or slips down by itself), try to figure out how
much more (or less) fabric you would need,
unravel and adjust your cast-on accordingly.
Don't try on your socks after only 10 rows. Rib-
bing behaves quite differently before you cover-
ed a significant stretch. From here, I urge you
to frequently try on your socks after each major
step to verify the fit.
How long should you knit the leg?
Remember the measurements of your feet
at their widest point? You need that number
again. So, pick up your measuring tape, put it
around your calf, and go up to the point where
you have the exact same circumference. And
then, measure the distance towards the ankle
knuckle.
Now, obviously, you already covered 5 cm for
the cuff (or however many rows you've knitted).
So, you have to subtract that number.
In my case, I measured 20 cm which means I
have to knit 15 cm more in stockinette stitch.
Note: If you have very strong calves (or a very
narrow ankle) your socks might end up rather
short. To combat that, you would have to cast
on more stitches and then decrease to the origi-
nal calculation as you go down.
Page 6
 How to add stripes
Stripes can be a very fun way to make your
sock appear less plain without adding a lot of
knitting complexity. Basically, you only have to
join in a new yarn every couple of rows. There
are, however, some rules you need to observe:
1) If your stripes are only 4 rounds or less,
then you can carry the yarn on the backside.
2) If your stripes are above 5 but below 10
round, then you could carry the yarn on the
backside but you need to create floats on the
backside every 3 rows by crossing the yarn (like
in Fair Isle).
Note: Depending on your yarn this might still be
visible - especially if you are working with a very
slick or light yarn.
3) If your stripes are higher than 10 rounds, I
recommend breaking the yarn after you've fi-
nished each stripe. You will end up with a lot of
tails to weave in but it's the neatest and most
secure option. If your yarn allows it, you can
weave in those tails as you go.
fig. 1
© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved
Knitting stripes can be quite visible if you don't
pay attention. So, definitely read my guide on
knitting jogless stripes in the round.
Here's the gist:
Step 1: Change color wherever you want and
knit across one full round without any special
technique.
Step 2: When you start the next round, lift the
right leg of the stitch one row below the first
stitch in the new color (should be the old color)
and knit it together with the first stitch.
(Optional) Step 3: If your stripes are higher
than 4 rounds, you need to cross the yarns at
the beginning of round 3 or 4.
For these socks, I always knit 9 rows in pink fol-
lowed by 3 rows in the rust color. But feel free
to use any other combination you like.
One important note: Don't place the "jog"/
where you change yarn at the beginning or end
of a needle. That runs the risk of creating a
ladder. Instead, always do it somewhere in the
middle of your needle. Use a stitch marker to
mark the new beginning of your round.
Page 7
 Knitting the heel (Part I)
I always recommend knitting a reinforced heel After you've finished the heel-flap, you need to
with slipped stitches. Typically, the heel is the turn the heel. This is done using a very simple
region that sees the most wear & tear, and this short-row technique. Here are the instructions:
helps to prevent holes. You can also knit the Preparation: Knit to the exact center of your
heel holding a second yarn (like a thin nylon heel (in my case 16 stitches) continuing the slip
thread) together for even more durability. stitch pattern (*Sl1, k1*).
Either way, no matter how many stitches you've Row 1: K1, SSK, k1 <turn around; don't finish
cast on, you always knit the heel flap the row>
across half the number of stitches roun-
ded down to the next number divisible by Row 2: SL1, p3, p2tog, p1 <turn around>
4 (in my case, 32 stitches). You'll knit it flat. Ty- From here, continue like this until you've used
pically across the first, and second needle, and up all stitches:
then you turn around. Here's the repeat:
RS: SL1, knit up until 1 stitch before the gap,
RS: *SL1, k1* SSK, k1 <turn around>
WS: *SL1, p1* WS: SL1, purl up until 1 stitch before the gap,
Note: If you are knitting stripes, simply join in p2tog, p1 <turn around>
the new color at the start of the heel flap (but
keep the other yarn(s) attached). For a nea-
ter color transition, you may consider just
knitting the first row (So R1: knit, R2: *sl1,
p1*, R3: *sl1, k1*, etc).
fig. 3 Also, consider knitting the heel for the second fig. 4
sock across the 3rd and 4th needle. That way,
you can hide the "jog" on the inside of your
calves where it's less visible.
How high should the heel flap be?
The ideal heel flap is as long as the distance
from your ankle knuckle to your sole. In my
case, that's around 5.5 centimeters. So, take up
your measuring tape again, and check how long
you need to knit it.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 8
Knitting the heel (Part II)
The gusset is probably the only truly difficult part of knitting a sock. That's because you have to
pick up stitches, and a lot of beginners shy away from that (it sounds so complicated, right?). The
process is pretty straight-forward, though. Let's show you how to knit a gusset:

Step 1: Cut the yarn for the heel, pick up the
color you've knitted your last stripe with, place
a stitch marker, and pick up one stitch from
the gap between the heel flap & your (old) 4th
needle with a crochet hook. This will prevent a
hole from forming here at the top of your gusset.
The stitch marker marks your new begining of
your round.
Step 2: And then, pick up one stitch from
every edge stitch. Try to tighten up the stitches
ever so often.
Step 3: Knit across the heel (I always join in a
new needle in the middle).
Step 4: Pick up stitches from the other side of
the heel flap. One stitch through every (slipped)
stitch of the edge.
Step 5: Pick up one more stitch from the gap,
and place a stitch marker. Check whether
you've picked up an equal number of stitches
on both side, and that you didn't accidentally
skip a stitch.
Step 6: Knit across the remaining stitches on
your (old) 3rd and 4th needle, and join in the
round again.
If you are only knitting in one color, then simply
follow these steps in a different order. Start at
step 3 (so, simply knit across the heel one more
time), and after step 6, finish with step 1, and
3.
If you have problems picking up stitches, I have
a step-by-step tutorial on my patreon account.
Knitting the gusset
Once you've picked up all stitches, you can
start knitting the gusset. Basically, it boils down
to decreasing back to your original number of
stitches.
Round 1: SSK, knit across until 2 stitches
before the second stitch marker, k2tog, slip the
marker, and finish knitting the round.
Round 2: knit
Repeat these two rounds until you are back to
your original number of stitches.
If you are knitting in one color, your round
starts at the top of the heel. In this case, you
have to knit up to 2 stitches before your first
marker, k2tog, knit to the next marker, slip it,
SSK, and finish the round.
Note: Avoid knitting an SSK or K2tog as the last
or first stitch on a new needle. This will create
holes/ladders. Shuffle stitches around instead.
Adjusting the fit: Once you've finished knit-
ting the gusset of your socks, I recommend
trying them on one more time. Some people have
very flat feet. If you notice the fabric is still a bit
too loose across your instep, you may consider
decreasing for 1 or even 3 more rounds until it fits
(if it's too tight, simply unravel a round or two).

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 9
KNITTING THE LEG
Right after the gusset, you can simply cont- One method, that almost always works, is to
inue knitting in stockinette stitch. If you stop knitting the leg once you've reached the
added stripes, then continue your pattern. You middle of your pinky toe. By now you should be
don't need to do any decrease, etc. able to try your socks on without slipping the
stitches to a scrap yarn.
How long should you knit the foot?
Note: If you have rather long toes, then start
This depends on your size. The shoe size will once you reach the tip of your pinky toe.
tell you exactly how long your total foot should
be. However, you need to subtract the length
of the gusset & heel (should be easy), and the
toebox. And the latter is the problem as you
haven't knitted it yet.
Now, I could tell you that my leg (starting from
the gusset) is 11 m long, and the toebox 5 cm.
But depending on your size & yarn these mea-
surements WILL be different.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved Page 10

Knitting the toes
The start of the toe box marks the last stretch
before you cross the finishing line. So, take a
deep breath. From here, each round is going to
get shorter and shorter. Here's how to knit the
toes of a sock:
Preparation: Make sure you have an equal
number of stitches on the top two and the bot-
tom two needles. The gaps on the sides should
align exactly with the decrease lines from your
gusset.
Place your sock in front of yourself the way you
would wear them. The toes are pointing away
from you. There are two needles on top, and
two at the bottom. And you have to decrease
always one stitch before and one stitch after
the gap between the bottom and the top. There
are NO decreases in the middle.
© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved
I always start the toebox on the left bottom
needle. You may consider placing a stitch mar-
ker here.
Round 1-3: Change color (optional) knit
Round 4: K1, SSK, knit across until 3 stitches
before the end of your second needle, k2tog,
k2, SSK, knit across until 3 stitches before the
end of your fourth needle, k2tog, k1.
Round 5: knit
Continue repeating rounds 4+5 until you've
halved your number of stitches.
Then decrease in every row until you've halved
the number of stitches one more time.
Page 11
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 KITCHENER STITCH & WEAVING IN
Once you only have 16 or 20 stitches left, it's
time to finish your socks with a Kitchener sti-
tch. So, cut the working yarn leaving a tail of
25cm/10 in or so, and follow the instructions
(click on the link).
Theoretically speaking, you could also
decrease until you have only 8 stitches left,
and pull the yarn through these last stitches.
This will, however, create a very pointy toe
that doesn't have the ideal fit. So, I don't really
recommend it.
Next, you have to weave in the tails. Before you
do that, I have to mention two things. First of
all, I want to congratulate on finishing your first
sock. Be proud of yourself!
And then, you should instantly try them on.
I mean, you were probably going to do that
anyway, but I think it's important. If you notice
that your toebox is too big or needs to be a bit
© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved
roomier, you would have to unravel and ad-
just accordingly (by starting the toes earlier or
later).
Once you are satisfied, you only have to weave
in your tails. I always do it with a sharp tapestry
needle (see picture below). Read my full tutorial
on how to weave in ends here.
If it's a gift, you may consider blocking your
socks for an overall neater finish. I don't feel it's
entirely needed but I personally prefer to wash
my garments once before the first wear anyway
to remove possible spinning oils, etc. so it's
barely an extra effort - especially if you own a
special sock blocking board.
Page 13
Final notes
And that's it! I hope you enjoyed knitting my little sock pattern. Please, don't fret if your first sock is
not perfect. Mine wasn't either. I promise you, your second sock will look so much better, and your
next pair even better yet. It takes a bit of practice but it's so worth it. Big promise! Also, I do feel that
you have to finish the process once before you will be able to understand any tips and tricks.
Make sure to share your finished work with me. But you know how things are. If you look too
Simply add me on social media or add them as a long at the same thing, you stop seeing the
project on Ravelry. I‘d be delighted to see what most blatant blunders - especially since I am
other knitters create with my instructions. not a native speaker (but from Germany).

And while we are at it, feel free to contact me if Last, but not least, make sure to follow me on
you found a typo or think there‘s a little mistake social media and bookmark my blog.
in this pattern. I tried to check it diligently mul-
tiple times, and of course there was a test-knit
for this pattern.

happy knitting
Norman

© Copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved. No part of this pat-
tern may be reproduced in any form. This pattern is supplied for your personal and non-commer-
cial use only. This pattern was first published in June 2021.

© copyright Norman Schwarze, www.nimble-needles.com, all rights reserved

Page 14
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