Seraphin Amigurumi

Seraphin Dragon 1
A Pattern by Manic Yarn
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Seraphin Dragon 2
Stitch Guide Seraphin Dragon!

Note: Not all stitches listed are used in every Seraphin is a masculine name of French origin,
pattern. meaning “The Burning One”.
ch: Chain.
MR: Magic ring.
slst: Slip stitch. This guy is all kinds of bad and a little bit of an
sk: Skip.
st(s): Stitch(es). arsonist! He spends his days perched on a
sc: Single crochet.
hdc: Half double crochet.
mountain top dreaming of crispy critters. The
dc: Double crochet original inventor of fire, he enjoys every
inc: Sc, hdc, or dc inc as indicated: (2
stitches are placed in the same opportunity to burn things to a crisp! His
space). favorite food is bacon. Seraphin has a bad habit
dec: Single crochet decrease: (This can
also be hdc dec or dc dec). of starting unintended wildfires. Whatever the
inv. dec: Invisible decrease: (Pick up the FLO of case, he does have good manners and makes a
the next 2 stitches and crochet
through both loops as if they were fantastic house-guest. He enjoys the company
one stitch). Use whenever possible for a of Humans and tries to keep his antics confined
clean finished look.
(xxxx): Repeat the same group of stitches as to uninhabited areas.
indicated.
[xxxx]: Stitches are placed into the same st
* to *:
or body part.
Repeat entire sequence between
Materials Needed:
asterisks. Size: 48” x 31”!
FLO: Crochet in front loop only. Yarn: Any worsted weight yarn: MC for body and 1 or more
BLO: Crochet in back loop only. CC for additional details (horns, claws, scales, wing webbing,
YO: Yarn over.
tail). ILTY Metallic and RH stripes “Retro Stripe” for details.
FO: Fasten off.
Inv. Join: Invisible join technique. MC 1600 yards
LS: Loop stitch: Extend yarn guide finger CC: Horns, Wing webbing: 450 yards
to create desired loop size. Insert CC: Claws, Scales: 300 yards
hook through stitch, weave hook 21mm oval or slit pupil safety eyes.
behind nearest strand, around to the
front of the far strand, grab far strand
Hook- Size: Susan Bates (D) 3.25mm
with hook and pull strand to the back Stuffing: 3 lbs. Poly-fil (I used Poly-fil brand Crafters Choice
around the nearest strand and dry polyester packing fiber fill) its stuffs solid and sturdy.
through stitch, pull yarn tail to adjust Darning needle.
loop size as needed, finish stitch as
1 3/4-inch T-pins for joining. (Recommended)
you normally would.
hdc LS: Half double crochet loop stitch (yarn Wings: 12-gauge galvanized wire (hardware store) and needle
over, then regular LS). nosed pliers.
BOB: Bobble stitch: (3dc are joined
together in the same stitch unless
otherwise indicated).
Seraphin Dragon 3

The Nose and Head: Worked in Rounds in MC.
Round 1: sc x 6 in MR. (6)
Round 2: sc inc x 6. (12)
Round 3: (hdc inc x 1, sc x 3) x 3. (15)
Round 4: sc x 1, (hdc inc x 1, sc x 4) x 2, hdc inc x 1, sc x 3. (18)
You will now be shaping nostrils using inc, dec, and hdc stitches. Nostrils should curve inward over rows 9-10 and you
will see a dip underneath the nose after round 11. You will really begin to see the nose take shape after round 14.
Round 9: sc x 3, (begin shaping nostrils) hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 1; sc x 4 (top of nose), hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc
inc x 1 (nostrils), sc x 11. (30)
Round 10: sc x 3, (nostrils) hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 1, sc x 5 (top of nose), hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 1 (end
nostrils) sc x 10. (30)
Round 11: sc x 3, sc inc x 2, hdc inc x 2, sc inc x 2, sc x 6 (top of nose), sc inc x 2, hdc inc x 2, sc inc x 2, sc x 5, sc dec x 1, sc
x 2. (41)
Round 12: sc x 8, hdc x 4, sc x 14, hdc x 4, sc x 11. (41)
Round 13: sc x 3, sc dec x 6, sc x 6 (top of nose), sc dec x 6, sc inc x 1, sc x 7. (30)
Round 14: sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1; sc dec x 3 over top of nose; sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 9.
(24)
Round 15: sc x 24. (24)
Round 16: sc x 6, hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, hdc inc x 1, sc x 11. (24)
Round 17: sc x 3, hdc inc x 1, sc x 3, hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 1, sc x 11. (25)
Round 18: sc x 4, hdc inc x 1, sc x 3, hdc inc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, hdc inc x 1, sc x 3, hdc inc x 1, sc x 6. (27)
Round 19: sc x 4, hdc inc x 2, sc x 3, hdc inc x 2, sc x 4 (top of nose), hdc inc x 2, sc x 3, hdc inc x 2, sc x 5. (35)
Begin stuffing. You should have a dip on each side of the midline for a nostril, and a dip under the chin. You will also
have a small dip between and slightly behind the 2 nostrils.
• Stuff firmly along front and midline of nose and around upper edges of each nostril.
• Stuff remaining areas of nose, taking care to not overstuff the “dips” described above.
• Push nostrils inward and upward and pinch down behind to shape nostril edges. Continue stuffing head
as you go.
Rows 20-25 have multiple hdc increases on top of each other. Instead of
using the top loops like normal, place hdc increases BETWEEN the hdc
stitches (in the previous row). This creates a smooth compact look,
flattening out the eye area and aligning the stitches on top of each other.
Here are some tips:
• Don’t overthink this; just shove your hook in between the actual hdc
stitches rather than the top loops.
• You will then catch the top loops and also the horizontal loop in the
back (3rd loop) as you draw your yarn through to complete your stitch.
Seraphin Dragon 4

Round 20: sc x 6, hdc inc x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, hdc inc x 2, sc dec x 2, sc x 1, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, hdc
inc x 1, sc x 6. (35)
inc x 1, sc x 6. (39)
inc x 1, sc x 6. (45)
Round 23: sc x 12, sc dec x 1, hdc inc x 5, sc dec x 1, sc x 5, sc dec x 1, hdc inc x 5, sc dec x 1, sc x 8, sc dec x 1. (50)
Round 24: sc x 12, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 6, sc dec x 2, sc x 2, sc dec x 2, hdc inc x 6, sc dec x 2, sc x 8. (54)
Round 25: sc x 12, sc dec x 3, hdc inc x 7, sc dec x 4, hdc inc x 7, sc dec x 3, sc x 8. (58)
You will now be sculpting eyebrows; hdc’s are done normally in the top 2 loops now unless otherwise noted.
Round 26: sc x 15, hdc x 14, sc dec x 2, hdc x 14, sc x 11. (56)
Round 27: sc x 15, hdc x 14, sc dec x 1, hdc x 14, sc x 11. (55)
Round 28: sc x 15, sc dec x 6, sc x 1, sc3tog [using inv. dec as follows: place hook under FLO for next 3 st, YO, draw
through all 3 loops, YO, draw through 2 loops], sc x 1, sc dec x 6, sc x 11. (41)
Round 29: sc x 11, sc dec x 2, sc x 6, sc3tog, sc x 6, sc dec x 2, sc x 7. (35)
Round 30: sc dec x 2, sc x 14, sc 3tog, sc x 14. (31)
• Continue stuffing.
• Note the horizontal ridge you shaped across the bridge of the nose; stuff to emphasize.
• There is a vertical ridge between the two eye areas, emphasize this as well.
• Find the top row of hdc’s before the eyebrow begins to curve (approx. rounds 25-26), count down from there to
the space between the 3rd and 4th row of hdc’s.
• Count 3 sets of hdc increases to the side from middle front and place eyes in that space.
• Eyes should be centered in the flat area and slightly toward the side.
• Make sure eyes are even and you like the placement prior to attaching backs
Round 31: sc x 31. (31)
Round 32: sc dec x 1, sc x 4, sc dec x 2, sc x 13, sc dec x 2, sc x 4. (26)
Round 33: sc dec x 4, sc x 14, sc dec x 2. (20)
Round 34: sc dec x 2, sc x 14, sc dec. (17)
Stuff as much as you can before you close up the head, especially the back. Do not overstuff or sculpted areas will not
take form.
Round 35: sc dec x 1, (sc x 1, sc dec) x 5. (11)
Round 36: sc dec x 5, sc x 1. (6)
Cut yarn leaving a long strand to sew head to neck later. Weave end through BLO of opening and pull shut.
Seraphin Dragon 5

Raised eyebrow (2). In MC (Please read carefully before beginning).
• Eyebrows are created using surface crochet, beginning toward center of the face, at a diagonal, toward and past
the top of the eye.
• Locate the area that is even with the bottom of the eye and 1-2 st away from the middle. Use surface crochet
around the posts of the stitches.
• You will be working one eyebrow toward the back of the head then turn around so you can work the second
side the same way (beginning in front).
• [] indicates [around the same post].
• NOTE: Eyebrow placement will depend on your own personal preference and the size and placement of your
particular eyes.
• If you are unsure of eyebrow placement, make a loose chain of 12; Use this as a guide to see how they will
appear and mark your location.
• Join with a slst, [hdc x 2], [dc x 3] x 3, [tr x 3] x 2, (you should be about to curve closely over the top of the eye at
this time); [tr x 3] x 3, pull last tr around to frame other side of eye and sl st to join. (27 incl. 2 slst) Repeat for
second eye. Stitches around the post should align next to each other front to back, rather than all spread out.
This gives it a nice serrated texture.
Ear: Make 2. In MC; Use a running yarn stitch marker along the edge of the ear to help locate the center front for
placement.
Round 2: sc x 4. (4)
Round 3 sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 1. (5)
Round 5: sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 2. (6)
Round 6: (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2. (8)
Round 8: sc x 3, sc inc x 2, sc x 3, sc inc x 2. (14)
Round 9: sc x 5, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc inc x 2. (16)
Seraphin Dragon 6

Rounds 16-21: Repeat round 15.
Round 22: sc x 10, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 6, sc inc x 2. (24)
Round 23: sc x 10, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 5, sc inc x 2. (23)
Round 24: sc x 10, sc dec x 3, sk next st, sc dec x 3. (16)
Round 25: sc x 16. FO leaving a long end for sewing to head.
• Stuff ears, between Rounds 22-25 only.
• Find center front stitches (the sc between the decreases), pinch edges (increases) to curve forward with center
remaining flat. You may have to slide the front one way or the other until both sides are even, that’s okay.
• Look at the side of the face with the nose toward you, FRONT of ear should face forward.
• Pin ears to the side of the head 2 rows back from the forehead, leaving room for horns of the same width
between them.
• Ears should naturally angle out over the stuffed area and then toward the back.
• Wait until horns are in place before sewing ears.
Horns: Begin with MC, changing to CC.

IN MC:
Round 4: in BLO: hdc x 18. (18)
Round 5: in FLO sl st x 18, FO MC with an invisible join, leave a tail end to sew to the head. (18)
IN CC:
Round 1: Third loops only:
• Flip piece inside out for this row if you need help to make third loops visible (you will be working toward the
closed end in the same direction you normally would).
• Join to the THIRD loop of a hdc from round 4 (these should now be the uppermost loops visible to you).
• sc x 18; flip piece back to right side facing. (18)
Round 2-6: In BLO; sc x 18. (18)
Round 7: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 3, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 3. (18)
Round 8: sc x 18. (18)
Round 9: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 3, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 3. (18)
Round 10: sc x 18. (18)
Round 11: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 3, sc x 9. (15)
Round 12: sc x 15. (15)
Seraphin Dragon 7

Round 13: sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 3, sc inc x 1, sc x 1, sc inc x 1, sc x 3. (15).
Round 14: sc x 15. (15) Begin stuffing and continue throughout, following curve.
Round 15: sc dec x 3, sc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 4. (13)
Round 16: sc x 13. (13)
Round 17: sc inc x 3, sc dec x 5. (11)
Round 18: sc x 5, sc dec x 3. (8)
Round 19: sc x 8. (8)
Round 20: sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 2. (7)
Round 21: sc x 7. (7)
Round 22: (This is tricky, I went from the inside toward the outside for the last two sets of stitches to make it easier. This
is the point of the horn.) dc3tog x 1; from inside-dc2tog x 2.
• Pull yarn end through and cut, leaving a long end. Weave end through point of horn if needed to close any gaps
and FO. Point should continue curving up and back.
• Horns are sewn to head between and approx. one row forward from the ears using available back loops.
• The points should be directed slightly outwards and upwards (11:00 and 1:00 position)
• Finish sewing ears.
Neck: In MC.
Round 2: sc inc x 6 in MR. (12)
Round 3: (sc inc, sc x 1) x 6. (18)
USE YOUR FANCY HDC FOR THIS PART (Same as eye shaping).
Round 6: sc x 1, hdc inc x 1, sc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 4, hdc inc x 1, sc x 9, hdc inc x 1, sc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 3. (35)
Round 7: sc x 2, hdc inc x 1, sc x 5, sc inc x 1, sc x 5, hdc inc x 1, sc x 10, hdc inc x 1, sc x 5, sc inc x 1, sc x 3. (40)
Round 8: In BLO: sc x 3, hdc inc x 1, sc x 6, sc inc x 1, sc x 6, hdc inc x 1, sc x 11 (this is the front), hdc inc x 1, sc x 6, sc inc
x 1, sc x 3. (45) The front loops on this round are a guide for where to sew the head on to the neck. The neck is as wide
as the head; He is a stocky guy!
Rounds 9-11: In both loops: sc x 45. (45)
Round 12: sc x 19, sc inc x 1, sc x 14, sc inc x 1, sc x 10. (47)
Round 13: sc x 10, sc dec x 1, sc x 8, sc inc x 1, sc x 14, sc inc x 1, sc x 8, sc dec x 1, sc x 1. (47)
Round 14 -16: sc x 10, sc dec x 1, sc x 8, sc inc x 1, sc x 15, sc inc x 1, sc x 8, sc dec x 1. (47)
Rounds 17-21: sc x 47. (47)
Round 22: sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 8, sc inc x 2, sc x 14, sc inc x 2, sc x 8. (47)
Round 23: sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 3, sc dec x 1, sc x 10, sc inc x 2, sc x 16, sc inc x 2, sc x 9. (49)
Round 27: sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc3tog (do as an inv. decrease over 3 st.), sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 11, sc inc x 2, sc x 24, sc inc x
2, sc x 9, sc dec x 2. (59)
Round 28: sc x 17, sc inc x 2, sc x 26, sc inc x 2, sc x 9, sc dec x 1, sc x 1. (62)
Round 29: (sc dec x 1, sc x 1) x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 14, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 4, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 4, sc x 14, sc dec x 1. (66)
Round 30: sc3tog x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 14, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 4, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 4, sc x 15. (71)
Seraphin Dragon 8

Round 33-35: sc x 69. (69)
Round 36: sc x 25, (sc x 3, sc dec) x 2, (sc dec, sc x 3) x 2, sc x 20, sc dec x 2. (63)
Round 39: sc dec x 2, sc x 49, hdc x 1. (52)
Round 40: hdc x 1, sc x 51. (52)
Rounds 41-45: sc x 52. (52)
Re-center 46: sc x 2 to re-center work (center back); Move marker. (2)
Round 47: sc x 1, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 4, (sc x 2, sc dec) x 3, sc x 2, (sc dec, sc x 2) x 3, (sc inc, sc x 2)
x 4, sc x 1. (54)
Round 48: sc inc x 1, sc x 6, sc inc x 2, sc x 6, sc inc x 2, (sc x 3, sc dec) x 2, (sc dec, sc x 3) x 2, sc inc x 2, sc x 6, sc inc x 2, sc
x 6, sc inc x 1. (60)
Round 49: sc x 60
Rounds 50-53: sc x 20, hdc x 20, sc x 20. (60) FO leaving an extra-long end to sew to body.
Finishing: Stuff neck firmly.
• Note the curved areas with the increases and decreases, stuff increases first; Stuff the curved back area and the
wide part VERY FIRMLY. You should have an S shape that gets wider toward the bottom.
• Squish neck into its curved form. The neck is not totally round it is somewhat flattened in front at the top and
extends out sideways to meet the body.
• You will finish filling out the very bottom part as it is joined to the body later.
Joining Head to Neck:
• FLO stitches of neck act as a guide; you will be joining through
the row AFTER these stitches (they will be hidden). The neck is
meant to curve up and cup the back of the head, around ears and
face, which is why it appears wide. Pull edges up and pin into place
with T pins before sewing as follows:
• Pin center front of neck between rounds 23-24 of the head.
• Pin center back of neck over the middle of the finishing round
on back of head.
• Pin neck edge to area meeting up with bottom of ear.
• Note an imaginary diagonal line between ear and front of neck
pin along this line.
• Take a second look and make sure the front of the face is
centered and the head is level side to side.
• Sew all the way around, placing your needle under one stitch of
the neck, then one stitch of the head, pulling tight every few
stitches; this will create a seamless join. Take care to check
placement every few stitches as well.
Seraphin Dragon 9
Body: in MC.
Round 10: (sc x 8, sc inc) x 6. (60)
Rounds 11-15: sc x 60. (60)
Round 16: sc x 7, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 2, sc x 3, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2, sc x 16, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 2, sc x 3, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2, sc x 7.
(68)
Round 17: (sc inc, sc x 1) x 3, sc inc x 1, sc x 54, sc inc x 1, (sc x 1, sc inc) x 3. (76)
Rounds 18-31: sc x 76 for 14 rounds. (76)
Re-center: sc x 3 (or as needed) to re-center work; Move marker and keep it there until next re-center point. (3)
Round 32: sc x 10, (sc dec, sc x 2) x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 36, sc dec x 1, (sc x 2, sc dec) x 2, sc x 10. (70)
Round 33: sc x 25, sc dec x 1, sc x 3, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 3, sc dec x 1, sc x 25. (65)
Round 35: sc x 27, (sc dec x 1, sc x 2) x 2, sc3tog, (sc x 2, sc dec x 1) x 2, sc x 25. (65)
Round 36: sc x 1, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 46, sc inc x 1, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 2. (71)
Rounds 39-40: sc x 71. (71)
Rounds 43-44: sc x 71. (71)
Rounds 47-52: sc x 71. (71)
Round 53: sc x 47, hdc 24. (71)
Round 54: hdc x 28, sc x 43. (71)
Round 55: sc x 48, hdc x 23. (71)
Round 56: hdc x 29, sc x 42. (71)
Round 57: sc x 49, hdc x 22. (71)
Round 58: hdc x 30, sc x 41. (71)
Rounds 59-64: sc x 71. (71)
Round 65: (sc dec, sc x 3) x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 47, sc dec x 1, (sc x 3, sc dec) x 2. (65)
Round 66: sc x 25, (sc inc x 1, sc x 2) x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 1, sc inc x 1, (sc x 2, sc inc x 1) x 2, sc x 25. (71)
Seraphin Dragon 10

Rounds 67-68: sc x 71. (71)
Rounds 71-72: sc x 71. (71)
Round 78: sc x 65. (65)
Round 79: (sc dec, sc x 3) x 13. (52) Stuff at this point and continue stuffing as you go.
Round 80: sc x 52. (52)
Round 81: sc x 18, sc dec x 2, sc x 8, sc dec x 2, sc x 14, sc dec x 2. (46)
Joining Neck to Body:
• The back end of the body is round 83. The top of the back is the area with the hdc stitches you made in rounds
53-58.
• Pin center front of neck to round 7 BELOW the starting MR.
• Pin center back of neck at or near round 19 on the top of the back.
• Pin side edges evenly, stretch tightly into a curved line between center front and center back.
• Take a second look and make sure all edges are neatly placed. You will be adding bits of stuffing around bottom
edges as you go to stabilize neck.
• Sew all the way around, placing your needle under one stitch of the neck, then one stitch of the body, pulling
tight every few stitches; this will create a seamless join. Take care to check placement every few stitches as well.
Secure yarn, and FO.
Seraphin Dragon 11

Tail: Make 1 in MC. The tail is worked from the end of Round 58: (sc inc, sc x 12) x 2. (28)
the piece forward and added to the body after Rounds 59-62: sc x 28. (28)
completion. Round 63: (sc inc, sc x 13) x 2. (30)
Round 1: sc x 4 in MR. (4) Rounds 64-71: sc x 30. (30)
Rounds 2-4: sc x 4. (4) Round 72: (sc inc sc x 14) x 2. (32)
Round 5: (sc inc, sc x 1) x 2. (6) Rounds 73-80: sc x 32. (32)
Rounds 6-8: sc x 6. (6) Round 81: (sc inc sc x 15) x 2. (34)
Rounds 10-12: sc x 8. (8) Round 90: (sc inc, sc x 16) x 2. (36)
Rounds 24-27: sc x 14. (14) Attaching tail: Note, there is no “Top” or “Bottom” to
Round 28: (sc inc, sc x 6) x 2. (16) tail; This makes joining much easier.
Rounds 29-32: sc x 16. (16) Attach tail to body as follows. Line up edges of body and
Round 33: (sc inc, sc x 7) x 2. (18) tail so you are looking at them next to each other. Using
Rounds 34-37: sc x 18. (18) leftover length of yarn from the body or tail and a
Round 38: (sc inc, sc x 8) x 2. (20) darning needle, insert needle sideways under the POST
Rounds 39-42: sc x 20. (20) of one stitch on the edge of body, then the
Round 43: (sc inc, sc x 9) x 2. (22) corresponding post of the tail, do this around each post
Rounds 44-47: sc x 22. (22) (not the loops at the edge) for each stitch around body
Round 48: (sc inc, sc x 10) x 2. (24) and tail opening, pull yarn tight every inch or so and
Round 49-52: sc x 24. (24) they will line up and join invisibly!
Round 53: (sc inc, sc x 11) x 2. (26) Add stuffing before the final few stitches to fill out both
Rounds 54-57: sc x 26. (26) body and tail at join area. Secure yarn and FO.
___________________________________________
Seraphin Dragon 12

Tail Tip Décor: Worked in rounds in CC
Round 1: sc x 4 in MR. (4) Round 12: sc x 12. (12)
Round 2: sc x 4: (4) Round 13: (sc x 5, sc inc) x 2. (14)
Round 3: sc inc x 1, sc x 3: (5) Round 14: sc x 14. (14)
Round 4: sc x 5. (5) Round 15: (sc x 5, sc inc x 2) x 2. (18)
Round 5: sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 2. (6) Round 16: (sc x 7, sc inc x 2) x 2. (22)
Round 7: (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2. (8) Round 18: (sc x 11, sc inc x 2) x 2. (30)
Round 9: (sc x 3, sc inc) x 2. (10) Round 20: (sc x 15, sc inc x 2) x 2. (38)
Round 11: (sc x 4, sc inc) x 2. (12) Rounds 22-25: sc x 42. (42)
Finishing tail piece in sections: At this point the piece will be divided
into THREE separate parts; one spike trail off each edge, and the
middle section which will join over the tip of the tail. Flatten tail piece
so top edges line up evenly. Divide as follows:
• Count 8 stitches over from working edge; place one marker
through both sides at 8th st. This is one spike.
• Count 8 stitches over from opposite edge, place one marker
through both sides at 8th st. This is the second spike.
• You should have 5 stitches remaining on each side in the center
(between stitch markers). This will be your tail join section.
• You will be crocheting each section separately in rounds.
• sc from current location including stitch marker in 8th stitch on
the first side. End round and move to First Edge.
• Stuff lightly as you go
First edge:
Round 1: Turn work so you are looking at the second stitch in the stitch marker (second side); sc x 16, place marker. (16)
Round 2: sc x 16.
Rounds 3-5: sc dec x 1, sc x 5, sc inc x 2, sc x 5, sc dec x 1. (16)
Round 6: sc dec x 2, sc x 3, sc inc x 2, sc x 3, sc dec x 2. (14)
Rounds 9-10: sc x 10. (10)
Round 11: (sc dec, sc x 3) x 2. (8)
FO, weave tail end through remaining 4 stitches and pull closed, hide end.
Seraphin Dragon 13

Second edge:
Round 1: Join yarn at stitch marker, sc x 16, place marker. (16)
Round 2: sc x 16.
Rounds 3-5: sc dec x 1, sc x 5, sc inc x 2, sc x 5, sc dec x 1. (16)
Rounds 9-10: sc x 10. (10)
FO, weave tail end through remaining 4 stitches and pull closed, hide end.
Center piece join:

Round 1: Join yarn with sc x 1 through BOTH sides (where edge piece is also joined) at one edge of center stitches; sc dec
x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 1 through BOTH sides of second edge piece, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1. (8)
Rounds 2-5: sc x 8. (8) FO leaving an end for sewing.
Center piece should slide over end of tail. Sew over end of tail, FO and hide end.
Basic Scales: Make one entire piece in CC.

YOU TUBE LINK for 1st five rows: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5MWZCSBCfq2rqtN_lnQMdw
Make 4 in MC using Scale rows 1-5 for leg décor.
Croc rules: Please read!
• Scales are made using crocodile stitch. Each row has 2 parts; the setup row, then turning
and going back over the setup row to make the actual croc (crocodile stitch)
• Chain 3 counts as a dc throughout. Crocs are 5dc for each side (ch 3 and 4 dc on first
side of new row) there is no ch 1 in the center, this provides a more rounded scale.
• All “V” stitches/crocs are made on the EDGES of the croc below them.
• All sets of ONE dc are made in the center of the croc below.
• Always ch 2 between dc and “V” stitches of your setup row. “V” stitch does NOT have a
chain 1 in the center but will be referred to as [V st] regardless.
• Decrease rows begin with a ch5/sl st. to get to the inner edge of the 1st croc.
• Increase rows begin on the same stitch where you left off (at the outer edge of the
croc).
• Turn at the end of each row.
Row 1 (1 croc): ch x 4, dc in the beginning (4th) chain from hook (1 V made), ch x 3. Turn work so the SIDE edge of the last
dc is facing you, dc x 4 (place hook under the post and through the center of the V, yarn over and pull through a loop,
complete dc normally). Now rotate work so the second dc (chains in this instance) is facing you (same side is facing up),
dc x 5 using the same method.
Row 2 (2 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1] at edge of last croc made, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of croc, ch x 2, [V st] at 2 nd edge of croc.
Turn, ch x 3, complete 1 croc, sl st to top of next dc, complete 2nd croc.
Seraphin Dragon 14

Row 3 (3 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1] at edge of last croc made, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 1st croc, ch x 2, [V st] between 1st and
2nd crocs, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 2nd croc, ch x 2, [V st] at edge of 2nd croc. Turn, ch x 3, complete 1 croc, sl st to top of
next dc, complete 2nd croc, sl st to top of next dc, complete 3rd croc.
Row 4 (4 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1] at edge of last croc, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 1 st croc, ch x 2, [V st] between 1st and 2nd
crocs, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 2nd croc, ch x 2, [V st] between 2nd and 3rd crocs, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 3rd croc, ch x 2,
[V st] at edge of 3rd croc. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 3, croc x 1.
*** At this point, center the middle of the crocs from row 4 directly on top of your tail join seam. Round 1 should be
near round 11-13 of the tail. If your piece is way too long, you may have a looser tension and should use a size smaller
hook to adjust. You can stretch or scrunch the piece somewhat but if you are way off this won’t be possible. ***
Row 5 (3 crocs): ch x 5, sl st between edges of 1st and 2nd croc, [ch x 3, dc x 1], ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 2nd croc, ch x 2,
[V st] between 2nd and 3rd croc, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 3rd croc, ch x 2 [V st] between 3rd and 4th croc. Turn, ch x 3,
(croc, sl st) x 2, croc x 1.
Row 6 (4 crocs): repeat row 4.
Row 9 (5 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1] at edge of croc, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 1 st croc, ch x 2, [V st] between 1st and 2nd crocs,
ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 2nd croc, ch x 2 [V st] between 2nd and 3rd crocs, ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 3rd croc, ch x 2, [V st]
between 3rd and 4th crocs, ch 2, dc x 1 in center of 4th croc, ch x 2, [V st]. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 4, croc x 1.
Row 10 (4 crocs): ch x 5, sl st between 1st and 2nd croc, [ch x 3, dc x 1], (ch x 2, dc x 1, ch x 2, [V st]) x 3. Turn, ch x 3, (croc,
sl st) x 3, croc x 1.
Row 11 (5 crocs): Repeat row 9.
Row 14 (6 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1], (ch x 2, dc x 1, ch x 2, [V st]) x 5. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 5, croc x 1.
Rows 16-17(6,5, crocs): Repeat rows 14-15 x 1.
Row 19 (5 crocs): [ch x 3, dc x 1] at edge of croc, (ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 1st croc, ch x 2, [V st]) x 4. Turn, ch x 3, (croc,
Rows 20-21 (4,5 crocs): Repeat rows 18-19 x 1.
Rows 24-27 (6,5,6,5 crocs): Repeat rows 22-23 x 2.
****You should be near the neck join area here. If you need to make an adjustment before or after this point do so by
adding or removing 2 rows in rows 24-27 or 30-35****
Row 28 (4 crocs): ch x 5, sl st, [ch x 3, dc x 1], (ch x 2, dc x 1, ch x 2, [V st]) x 3. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 3, croc x 1.
Rows 30-35 (4,5,4,5,4,5 crocs): Repeat rows 28-29 x 3.
****You should be near the skinny part of neck here**** If you need to adjust for the length over the skinny part of the
neck, do so by adding or removing 2 rows in rows 38-41.
Seraphin Dragon 15

Row 36 (4 crocs): ch x 5, sl st, [ch x 3, dc x 1], (ch x 2, dc x 1, ch x 2, [V st]) x 3. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 3,
croc x 1.
Row 37 (3 crocs): ch x 5, sl st, [ch x 3, dc x 1], (ch x 2, dc x 1, ch x 2, [V st]) x 2. Turn, ch x 3, (croc, sl st) x 2,
croc x 1.
Rows 38-41 (4,3,4,3 crocs): Repeat rows 36-37 x 2. FO leave a long end for sewing.
Scales placement:
• Line up row 41 with top front of neck.
• Lay piece over body so that Row 4 (4 crocs) is centered on top of the join for body/tail.
• Pin in place and tack to body as follows: Sew the edges through TOP CENTER and OUTER CORNER of crocs to
keep piece from looking bunchy and to keep the “scale” texture; leaving the bottom of the scales to take their
own shape.
• Tack down the middle of the piece to keep it close to the body through center of crocs.
• ***If you are not happy with the look feel free to tack “strays” I recommend completing the edges first to make
sure your placement is neatly done***
Leg décor placement:
• Front legs: Lay leg décor across back of front legs with the top edge even with the narrow part of upper leg and
the bottom edge about half way down the elbow. Secure in the same fashion as other scales.
• Back legs: Position piece as for front legs, but with lower end of the piece meeting the bend of the heel after the
foot.
Tail décor: Make 1 in MC using crocodile stitch. You will be placing single crocs on top of each other for part of this
piece. Turn after each row.
Row 1: Complete row 1 from scales. (1 croc)
Rows 2-3: ch x 2, sl st to center, [ch x 3, dc x 1]. Turn, ch x 3, complete 1 croc over “V” st. (1 croc)
Rows 4-7: Repeat rows 2-5 from scales. (2,3,4,3 crocs)
Row 8: ch x 5, sl st between edges of 1st and 2nd croc; [ch x 3, dc x 1], ch x 2, dc x 1 in center of 2nd croc, ch x 2, [V st]
between 2nd and 3rd croc. Turn, ch x 3, complete 1 croc, sl st to top of next dc, complete 2nd croc. (2 crocs)
Row 9: ch x 5, sl st between edges of first and second croc; [ch x 3, dc x 1]. Turn, ch x 3, complete 1 croc. (1 croc) FO
leaving an end for sewing to body.
Tail décor placement:
Place tail décor over join for tail/body on TOP of the tail. The row with 4 crocs should sit over the seam, with the 3 single
crocs along the top of the tail. Pin in place; sew to body/tail in the same fashion as scales and FO.
Seraphin Dragon 16
Claws: Make 12 in CC.

Round 2: sc x 1, sc inc x 2, sc x 1. (6)
Round 3: sc dec x 1, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 1. (6)
Round 4: sc inc x 1, sc dec x 2, sc inc x 1. (6) FO with an invisible join. Stuff claw with yarn end.
Toes: Make 3 for each foot in MC. Do not fasten off on the 3rd toe for each set.
Round 1: Note the downward curve to the claw. Flatten claw from sides (you will have 3 st on each side) Join MC at
bottom so you are working up the 3 stitches for one side; sc inc x 6. (12)
Round 2: sc x 12. (12)
Round 4: sc x 3, sc dec x 6, sc x 3. (12)
Round 5: sc x 12. (12)
Round 6: sc inc x 1, sc x 3, sc dec x 2, sc x 3, sc inc x 1. (12)
Rounds 7-8: sc x 12. (12)
Round 9: (beg. of knuckle) sc dec x 2, sc x 1, hdc inc x 4, sc x 1, sc dec x 1. (13)
Round 10: sc x 13. (13)
Round 11: (end of knuckle) sc inc x 3, hdc dec x 2, sc x 1, hdc dec x 2, sc inc x 1. (13)
Round 12: sc inc x 4, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 1, sc dec x 1, sc x 2. (15)
Round 13: sc x 15. (15)
Round 14: Using the 4 sets of hdc inc from round 9 as a guide (beg. of knuckle), flatten toe from sides to locate center
bottom; sc x 5 (or the number of st. needed) to get to center bottom. (5/varies). Place a stitch marker in this stitch and
FO with inv. join (if this is the third toe of the set, place marker and move on to foot/leg). Stuff toes.
Seraphin Dragon 17

Foot: There are 4 feet that are all made the same way through Round 9; Front and Back legs will be continued upwards
from each foot. There are three styles of legs, one style for the front and TWO for the back (stitch pattern varies near
the end for Right/Left).
Rounds 1 and 2 of toes will use chains to join each toe with a sc at the bottom. You will be crocheting over the top of
the toes and the top side of the chain in round one, then under the toes and the bottom side of the chain in round 2.
Use extra stitch markers if needed to keep track.
Round 1: Working toe is toe one. To join: (ch x 4, sc x 1 in center bottom) x 2 (toe two and then toe three), sc x 14
around toe three, sc x 4 over top side of chain, sc x 14 over toe two, sc x 4 over top side chain, sc x 15 over toe one,
place marker for end of round and move up as you go along. (53 sc + 8 ch sp = 61)
Round 2: (sc x 4 over bottom side of chain, sc x 1) x 2, (sc x 14, sc dec x 2) x 2, sc x 15. (57)
Round 3: sc x 23, sc dec x 2, sc x 12, sc dec x 2, sc x 14. (53)
Round 6: sc x 19, sc3tog, sc x 10, sc3tog, sc x 10. (41)
Round 7: sc x 19, sc3tog, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc3tog, sc x 10. (35)
Round 8: sc x 18, sc3tog, sc x 2, sc3tog, sc x 9. (31)
Round 9: sc x 4, sc dec x 1, sc x 5, sc dec x 1, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 2, sc inc x 3, sc dec x 2, sc inc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 1. (31)
Re-center: sc x 5 (or as needed) to re-center work; Move marker and keep it there until next re-center point. (5) Stuff
firmly and continue stuffing every 2-3 inches until finished.
Start Legs: Move to Front Leg or Back Leg instructions.

Front Leg: Make 2 in MC.
Round 1: hdc inc x 1, hdc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 4, sc inc x 1, sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 1, sc inc x
1, sc x 1, sc inc x 1, sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 4, sc inc x 1, hdc x 4, hdc inc x 1. (40)
Round 2: hdc x 6, sc x 8, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 2, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2, sc x 8, hdc x 6. (44)
Round 3: hdc x 6, sc x 32, hdc x 6. (44)
Re-center: sc x 2 (or as needed) to re-center work; Move marker and keep it there until
next re-center point. (2)
Round 4: hdc x 4, sc x 10, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 2, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 2, sc x 10, hdc x 4. (48)
Round 6: sc dec x 2, sc x 10, (sc x 4, sc inc) x 2, (sc inc, sc x 4) x 2, sc x 10, sc dec x 2. (48)
Round 16: hdc dec x 3, sc x 2, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 4, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 4, sc x 2, hdc dec x 3. (50)
Round 18: hdc dec x 3, sc x 7, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 3, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 3, sc x 7, hdc dec x 3. (50)
Seraphin Dragon 18

Round 20: hdc3tog, hdc inc x 2, sc x 43, hdc inc x 2. (52)
Round 21: hdc x 4, sc x 48. (52)
Round 22: sc inc x 3, sc x 49. (55)
Round 23: sc x 55. (55)
Round 25: sc x 55. (55)
Round 27: sc x 55. (55)
Round 28: sc x 15, (sc dec, sc x 5) x 4, sc x 12. (51)
Round 30: sc x 20, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 2, sc inc x 2, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2, sc x 20. (60)
Round 36: sc x 54. (54)
Round 37: sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc dec x 1, sc x 17, sc inc x 1, sc x 2, sc inc x 2, sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 17, sc dec x 1, sc x 2, sc
dec x 1. (54)
Round 38: sc x 54. (54)
dec x 1. (54)
Round 40: sc x 54. (54)
dec x 1. (54)
Round 42: sc x 54. (54)
Round 44: sc x 56. (56)
Round 45: sc inc x 1, sc x 54, sc inc x 1. (58)
Rounds 46-48: sc x 58. (58)
Re-center: sc x 3 (or as needed) to re-center work; Move marker and keep it there until next re-center point. (3) Make
sure your leg is stuffed up to this point.
Round 49: sc x 2, (sc dec, sc x 7) x 3, (sc x 7, sc dec) x 3, sc x 2. (52)
Round 52: (sc dec, sc x 2) x 10 (30)
Round 53: (sc x 3, sc dec) x 6. (24)
Round 54: (sc x 2, sc dec) x 6. (18) Stuff your shoulder – medium firmness for ease of sewing!
Round 55: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 6. (12)
Seraphin Dragon 19

Round 56: (sc x 1, sc dec) x 4. (8). Finish with bits of stuffing around the edges. Cut yarn, leaving a long end to sew leg to
body; Weave end through opening and pull closed.
Front leg join *NOTE-all legs are joined AFTER the scales for the chest and abdomen. It’s much easier without legs in
the way and crocs are used to help with placement.
• Pin inner side of round 55 to NECK JOIN approx. 7 stitches away from center back.
• Lay Seraphin on his side
• Angle back of leg to run parallel with rows on the body and pin narrow part of leg next to edge of crocs.
• Flatten leg by pressing down firmly so you can pin as close to midline of the front and back shoulder as you can.
• Pin side edges evenly, following the curved line formed by the leg.
• Take a second look and make sure all edges are neatly placed.
• Sew all the way around, including under the leg along the croc edge. Place your needle under one stitch of the
leg, then one stitch of the body, pulling tight every few stitches; this will create a seamless join. Take care to
check placement every few stitches as well.
Back Leg: Note-the first finishing row (Row 44) is different for each side. Make one of each in MC.
Round 1: hdc x 7, sc inc x 1, sc x 2, (sc inc x 1, sc x 1) x 2, sc x 2, (sc x 1, sc inc x 1) x 2, sc x 2, sc inc x 1, hdc x 8. (37)
Rounds 2-11: sc x 37 (37)
Re-center: sc x 11 (or as needed) to reach one side of the leg. This is your new
starting point for now; ch x 1, Turn.
Begin working in rows to form the heel area; ch x 1 and turn at the end of each
row.
Rows: 1-3: sc x 18. (18)
Row 4: sc dec x 1, sc x 14, sc dec x 1. (16)
Row 5: sc x 6, sc dec x 2, sc x 6. (14)
Begin working in rounds again.
Round 12: (You should have the right side facing you), sc dec x 1, sc3tog x 2, sc dec x 1 across the back of the heel; sc x 6
in ends of rows 7 through 2;
sc3tog pulling up one st in row 1, one in corner, and one in the top of foot. Sc x 17across top of foot, sc3tog on other
corner, sc x 6 in ends of rows 2-7. (35)
***Re-center: sc x 2 to reach center back***, place marker.
Round 13: sc dec x 1, sc x 6, sc dec x 1 at corner, (sc x 2, sc inc) x 2, sc x 1, sc inc x 1, sc x 1, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 2, sc dec x 1 at
corner, sc x 6, sc dec x 1. (36)
Seraphin Dragon 20

Round 14: sc dec x 1, sc x 4, hdc dec x 1, (sc x 3, sc inc) x 2, sc x 1, sc inc x 2, sc x 1, (sc inc, sc x 3) x 2, hdc dec x 1, sc x 4,
sc dec x 1. (38)
Round 15: hdc dec x 2, hdc x 4, (sc inc, sc x 4) x 2, sc inc x 2, (sc x 4, sc inc) x 2, hdc x 4, hdc dec x 2. (40)
Round 17: sc x 40. (40)
Round 18: sc dec x 3, (sc x 4, sc inc) x 3, sc x 2, (sc inc, sc x 4) x 3, sc dec x 1. (42)
Round 20: sc dec x 2, (sc x 6, sc inc) x 2, sc x 2, (sc inc, sc x 6) x 2, sc dec x 2. (38)
Round 21: sc x 38. (38)
Rounds 22-25: (Repeat rows 20-21) x 2. (38)
Round 26: sc x 14, (sc inc, sc x 2) x 3, sc inc x 1, sc x 14. (42)
Round 27: sc x 42. (42)
Round 28: sc x 15, sc inc x 1, sc x 3, sc inc x 1, sc x 2, sc inc x 1, sc x 3, sc inc x 1, sc x 15. (46)
Round 29: sc x 46. (46)
Re-center: sc x 2 (or as needed) to re-center work; Move marker and keep it there until next re-center point. (2) Make
sure your leg is stuffed up to this point and keep stuffing as you go.
Round 30: sc inc x 1, sc x 18, (sc inc, sc x 1) x 2, (sc x 1, sc inc) x 2, sc x 18, sc inc x 1. (52)
Round 31: sc x 52. (52)
Round 32: sc x 1, sc inc x 1, sc x 20, (sc inc, sc x 1) x 2, (sc x 1, sc inc) x 2, sc x 20, sc inc x 1, sc x 1. (58)
Rounds 33-36: sc x 58. (58)
Round 37: sc dec x 2, sc x 21, (sc inc, sc x 1) x 2, (sc x 1, sc inc) x 2, sc x 21, sc dec x 2. (58)
Round 38: sc x 58. (58)
Round 39: sc x 27, hdc x 8, sc x 11, end round, ch x 1, turn. (46)
Begin working in rows for the time being to shape the knee, ch x 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Row 1: sc x 11, hdc x 8, sc x 11. (30) (8 hdc’s should be at center front, adjust if needed).
Row 2: sc dec x 1, sc x 9, hdc x 8, sc x 9, sc dec x 1. (28)
Row 3: sc x 10, hdc x 8, sc x 10. (28)
Row 4: sc dec x 1, sc x 8, hdc x 8, sc x 8, sc dec x 1. (26)
Row 5: sc x 9, hdc x 8, sc x 9. (26)
Row 6: sc dec x 1, sc x 7, sc dec x 4, sc x 7, sc dec x 1. (20)
Row 7: sc x 20. (20)
Row 8: (sc dec, sc x 1) x 2, sc dec x 4, (sc x 1, sc dec) x 2 (12)
Row 9: sc dec x 6 (6)
Begin working in rounds again; right side should be facing you.
Round 40: Stitch around opening to begin upper thigh as follows:
• sc3tog x 2, sc x 8 down edge of rows 9-2 (1 in each row).
• sc3tog at corner (one loop through row 1, one loop at corner, one loop in first st of back).
• sc x 26 around back.
• sc3tog in the same fashion at second corner.
• sc x 8 up edge of rows 2-9. (46)
• ***sc x 1 to get to center front*** (1) Place marker.
Round 41: sc x 8, sc3tog, sc x 9, sc inc x 6, sc x 9, sc3tog, sc x 8. (48)
Rounds 42-43: sc x 48. (48)
Seraphin Dragon 21

Leg one and Leg two (Right and Left) differ from this point for the first row (one for each side). Make one of each.
Leg one: Round 44: (Partial round) sc x 28, ch x 1, turn, end rounds. (28)
Leg two: Round 44: (Partial round) sc x 4, ch x 1, turn, end rounds. (4)
Both Rear Legs
• Begin Working in rows to form the hip as it meets the body.
• ch x 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Rows 1-10: sc x 32. (32)
Row 12: sc dec x 1, (sc x 2, sc dec) x 3, (sc dec, sc x 2) x 3, sc dec x 1. (20)
Row 13: sc dec x 1, (sc x 2, sc dec) x 2, (sc dec, sc x 2) x 2, sc dec x 1. (14)
Row 15: sk 1st st, sc x 1 in 2nd st, hdc x 1, dc x 2, hdc x 1, sk next st, sc x 1 in last st. (6) FO leaving a long end for sewing.
Back leg join: *NOTE-all legs are joined AFTER the scales for the chest and abdomen. It’s much easier without legs in
the way and crocs are used to help with placement.
• Place Seraphin on his side.
• Pin front corner of back leg (where rows become rounds) to body at the intersection of 1st hdc row on body
(counting from front to back) and just above edge of scales.
• Pin top center of leg over the 2nd hdc row on body, pulling up to form a smooth look.
• Pin side edges evenly, following the curved line formed by the leg.
• Stand Seraphin up to make sure he is standing on his toes only and that his hip is not wrinkled. His heel should
angle upward and not touch the ground. Adjust if necessary.
• Take a second look and make sure all edges are neatly placed.
• Sew all the way around, stuffing hip and top of leg firmly as you go using the following technique:
• Begin at first corner, sew in the row NEXT TO the edge so the edge folds into the leg: Place your needle under
one stitch of the leg, then one stitch of the body, pulling tight every few stitches; this will create a seamless join.
Take care to check placement every few stitches as well.
Seraphin Dragon 22
Spikes: There are 3 large, 5 medium and 3 small spikes; stop point, total and placement for each size are noted in the
instructions. Use MC or any CC for spikes.
Rounds 4-6: sc x 6. (6)
Rounds 8-10: sc x 8. (8)
Round 11: (sc inc, sc x 3) x 2. (10)
Rounds 12-14: sc x 10. (10) Small: stop here (make 3)
Round 15: (sc inc, sc x 4) x 2. (12)
Rounds 16-18: sc x 12. Medium: stop here (make 5)
Round 19: (sc inc, sc x 5) x 2. (14)
Rounds 20-22: sc x 14. (14) Large: stop here (make 3)
Spike Placement:
Neck: Begin 3 rows behind head join and end just in line with front of shoulder: Space out MED-LARGE-LARGE-MED-MED
spikes in that order. Pin in place and take a second look – make sure they form an arc shape down the neck. Sew using
the seamless technique.
Body: Begin just behind shoulder and end just behind rear hip: Space out SM-MED-LARGE-MED-SM-SM spikes in that
order. Pin in place and take a second look – make sure they form an arc shape down the back. Sew using the seamless
technique.
Wing Arm:
• Consists of Base, Wing-Elbow, and Third section which is added separately after wire insertion.
• May be stuffed or with wire.
• ***Note, using stuffing only may result in a floppier wing due to its large size***
Base of wing-arm: (Make 2 in MC).

Round 1: ch x 50 taking care to avoid twisting, join; sc x 50. (50)
Round 2: sc x 50. (50)
Round 3: (sc x 8, sc dec) x 5. (45)
Round 4: sc x 45. (45)
Round 6: sc x 36. (36)
Rounds 8-10: sc x 30. (30)
Round 11: (sc x 3, sc dec) x 6. (24)
Rounds 12-28: sc x 24. (24)
Round 29: sc x 18, ch x 1, turn (end round). (18 plus 6 stitches left alone)
Seraphin Dragon 23

Begin working in rows to form the wing-elbow; ch x 1 and turn at the end of each row.
Rows 1-4: sc x 18. (18)
Row 5: sc dec x 9. (9)
Row 6: sc dec x 2, hdc x 1, sc dec x 2. (5)
Begin working in rounds again:
Round 30: Crochet around opening including edges of rows and open stitches from round 29 to begin 2nd section of
wing-arm.
• sc x 5 over the side edge of each sc from rows 2-6.
• sc dec x 1 over the side of row 1 and the first stitch left from round 29.
• sc x 4 over stitches left from round 29.
• sc dec x 1 over the last st from round 29 and side of row 1.
• sc x 5 over the side edge of each sc from rows 2-6.
• sc x 5 over stitches left from row 6. (21) Place marker.
Rounds 31-36: sc x 21. (21)
Round 37: (sc x 5, sc dec) x 3. (18)
Rounds 38-43: sc x 18. (18)
Round 44: (sc x 4, sc dec) x 3. (15)
Rounds 45-52: sc x 15. (15)
Round 53: (sc x 3, sc dec) x 3. (12)
Rounds 54-59: sc x 12. (12) FO.
You have completed the first 2 sections of the wing-arm. Get ready to measure and insert wire (if applicable) and
stuff. If you are not using wire, stuff firmly.
Measuring 1 piece of wire for each wing (2 total): Due to the variations in yarn, hooks and tension among users, it is
hard to give an exact measurement that works for every circumstance. Instead, the measurement is based on the actual
piece as it is crocheted by the user.
• Using wire (or a tape measure), measure for the base. This should be the same circumference as wing arm at
round 12, plus half the diameter (to allow wire to bend into the center of the circle base before going upwards).
This does not have to be exact, it will sit on the body within the wider part so just make sure it isn’t too wide.
Note measurement: ________
• Measure for wire along the wing-arm, matching curve as needed to run down the center of the piece. Note
measurement: ________
• Measurement after wire exits the top opening should equal approximately 1.5 times the length you just noted.
This will eventually be inside the final piece of the wing support. Note measurement: _________
• Cut wire after determining total length (Add your three measurements).
Seraphin Dragon 24

• Make a “ring” for the base using the first measurement, bending free wire toward the center of the ring, then
upwards.
• Bend exposed piece of wire slightly as it exits (toward the wing-elbow at about the same angle). Once the
membrane is added, the wire will bend a bit more to fit snugly, do not over-do it at this time
• NOW make your second piece to match this one before placing it inside the arm.
• Place wire inside piece, with the base sitting at the lower opening and stuff from both sides all around the wire (I
used my scissors to get my stuffing in there). You can stuff the wide part of the opening later as you are getting
ready to attach it.
Third section of wing-arm: (Make 2 in MC; this piece will be joined after it is complete); Stuff firmly every 2 inches or
so if not using wire.
Both Pieces:
Rounds 4-9: sc x 6. (6)
Rounds 11-16: sc x 8. (8) *If you are not using wire: continue to “no wire” section and stuff firmly as you go. *
Wire: Rounds 17-86.
Rounds 17-85: sc x 8. (8)
Round 86: (sc x 3, sc inc) x 2. (10) Continue to round 87: End cap
No Wire: Rounds 17-86.
Round 17: (sc inc, sc x 3) x 2. (10)
Rounds 18-86 sc x 10. (10) Continue to round 87: End cap.
End cap: both wire and non-wire
Round 88: sc x 15. (15)
Joining third wing-arm piece:

Wire:
• Measure piece against your remaining wire, bend wire at end point, trim, wrap with electrical tape to secure
sharp end.
• Slide piece over wire, with increase side toward the inner angle (bend) in the wire.
• Sew pieces together. This third piece will sit at a sort of diagonal over the top and inner edge of the wing-arm,
forming the bend. Stuff end cap as you go to ensure a smooth transition between sections.
No wire:
• Pin pieces with increase side toward bend in the wing arm.
• Sew pieces together. Stuff end cap as you go to ensure a smooth transition between sections.
Seraphin Dragon 25

Wing membrane, there are 3 membranes, made in a CC: ***Special Stitch Alert
(see below) ***
• Two large membranes join to make up the end of the wing, one wing-to-
body membrane which joins the larger ones to the lower wing-arm and
body.
➢ The stitch used for the majority of the membrane is an extended
single crochet (esc). This stitch has a neat and more uniform look
to it; it is also just slightly taller so it is important to use this stitch
for the pattern to work.
➢ ***Insert hook through st, YO and pull through a loop (2 loops on
hook) YO and pull through ONLY the first loop on your hook (as if
you were making a ch 1, 2 loops still on hook), YO and complete
the sc***
➢ Link to tutorial for extended sc stitch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJKVvd-1V-o
Large and Small Membrane: Make two large, one small; worked in rows.
• Ch x 1 at the end of the row do not count as a stitch.
• Increases are made every other row on the MARKED side of your work.
• Be SURE to count your stitches regularly, it’s easy to forget that last stitch!
• Ch x 1 and turn at the end of the row.
Row 1: ch x 3, dc x 4 in 3rd ch from hook. (4)
Row 2: esc x 4. (4)
Row 3: esc inc x 1, esc x 2, esc inc x 1. (6) Place marker on this side. Side inc are done when this marker is facing you.
Row 4: esc x 6. (6)
Row 5: esc inc x 1, esc x 4, esc inc x 1. (8)
Row 6: esc x 8. (8)
Row 7: esc inc x 1, esc x 6, esc inc x 1. (10)
Row 8: esc x 10. (10)
Rows (9-17, small membrane), (9-39, large membrane): Can you see the pattern? Continue 2 row repeat as follows:
esc inc x 1 at the beg and end of the row when you see your stitch marker, do not increase next row. Number of esc
between esc inc will go up by 2 every pattern repeat.
Continue pattern until you complete the INCREASE row where your total stitch count ends with 20 (small) or 42
(large). (FO and weave end-small membrane, ch x 3 and turn-large membrane).
Finishing large membrane: 3 rows, ch x 3 counts as a tr.
Row 1: tr x 5, dc x 6, hdc x 6, sc x 6, hdc x 6, dc x 6, tr x 6, ch x 3 turn. (42)
Row 2: tr inc x 1, tr x 5, dc x 6, hdc x 6, sc x 6, hdc x 6, dc x 6, tr x 5, tr inc x 1, ch x 3, turn. (44)
Row 3: tr x 6, dc x 6, hdc x 6, sc x 6, hdc x 6, dc x 6, tr x 7. (44) FO and weave in end.
Seraphin Dragon 26

Putting it together! ***Special Stitch Alert (see below) ***
• You will be stitching the membranes together using crab stitch (reverse sc) along the top edge of membranes
(CC) and along the join areas (MC). ***Link to tutorial for crab stitch: www.planetjune.com/rsc ***
• You are essentially working backwards with crab stitch (important for positioning).
EDGING
Large membrane IN MC:
• With front side facing (this will be different for each wing),
join with sl st at one outer edge to stitch down the ends of the
rows. sc x 3 in the end of 1st three tr rows, sc x 1 in the end of
each esc row, sc x 2 in dc row.
• ch x 2 at inner edge, continue around the second edge with sc
x 1 in the end of each esc row and sc x 3 in the end of last
three tr rows. (49 sc, 2 ch, 49 sc) FO and weave in end.
Small membrane IN MC:
• With front side facing, join with sl st at one unfinished edge,
sc x 18 down one side (sc x 1 in each esc, sc x 2 in dc).
• ch x 2 at inner edge, continue around the second edge; sc x
18. FO and weave in end.
Free edge (Both) in CC:
• Place large membranes as they will be positioned in the wing
for each side.
• Pin membranes together at outer edges.
• Crab stitch along the entire outer edge of large membranes with front side facing you, joining them at corners.
FO and weave in end.
• Crab stitch along the outer edge of small membrane with front side facing you. FO and weave in end.
JOINING
Joining large membranes together:
• Place membranes together front sides facing out. Starting at one edge, use both loops from each side and crab
stitch x 50 to join membranes. FO and weave ends. This is your wing vein!
Joining small and large membrane:
• Pin end of small membrane to large membrane matching outer edge of
small membrane between row 1 and 2 of tr stitches on large membrane.
Hold pieces together with front sides out. Use both loops of trim from each
side and crab stitch from outer end of large membrane to point of small
membrane. FO and weave ends.
Seraphin Dragon 27
Secure membrane to wing-arm:

Fasten piece along the center inside edge of wing-arm. Lower edge is near the base, upper edge is along the arm
extension. Pin into place beginning at the “V” and working outwards. With front side of wing facing, sew stitch for stitch
as you have with the other pieces. Your wing-arm may be slightly longer than your wing membrane; this is totally fine.
All dragons are different!
Secure wing to body:

Part of this is a matter of preference. The wing is designed to seat over the top several rounds of the shoulder and part
of the back. Pin wing into place before sewing and feel free to try different angles to see what you prefer. Make sure to
stretch base tightly against the body/shoulder. Lower edge of small membrane is sewn to back of dragon for support.
Once your look has been achieved, secure to body stitch for stitch, stuffing the base firmly as you go.
Congratulations! You are the

proud owner of your very own
Seraphin Dragon!
Check out my Facebook group,

Amigurumi Everything: Manic
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Seraphin Dragon 1

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Stitch Guide Seraphin Dragon!

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Horns: Begin with MC, changing to CC.

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Center piece join:

Basic Scales: Make one entire piece in CC.

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Claws: Make 12 in CC.

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Start Legs: Move to Front Leg or Back Leg instructions.

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Base of wing-arm: (Make 2 in MC).

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Joining third wing-arm piece:

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

A Pattern by Manic Yarn

Secure membrane to wing-arm:

Secure wing to body:

Congratulations! You are the

Check out my Facebook group,

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