Textile

1. Fibre :Textile Fibre May Be Found In Nature Or Created

Through Technology.

 A Fibre Is A Hair Like Strand Whose Length Is Greater

Than Its Width. It Is The Basic Unit Of All The Fabric.

 They Have Length At Least 1000 Times To That Of Their

Diameter Or Width.

 It Is The Smallest Textile Component Which Is

Microscopic Hair Like Substance That May Be Man Made
Or Natural.

Fibres

Classification Of Fibres :
1. NaturaL Fibres : Natural Fibres Are Those Fibres That Are In
Fibre Form As They Grow Or Develop & Come From Animal,
Plant, Mineral Sources That Can Be Convertible After
Spinning Into Yarns & Then Into Fabric.
2. Manufactured Fibres/Man Made Fibres : Manufactured
Fibres/Man Made Fibres Are Made From Chemical
Compounds Produced In Manufacturing Facilities.
 Yarn :
1. Yarn : Yarn Is A Continuos Strand Of Fibres Which Is Made
By Twisting Together These Fibres.

Textile Process
Spinning

Weaving

Knitting

Dyeing

Finishing

Fabric
 Filament Fibre :Filament Fibre Are Natural & Man Made
Fibres Of Continuos Strands Of Indefinite Length, Measured
In Yards Or Meters.

They May Be Either Monofilament & Multifilament Yarn.

1. Monofilament Yarn :Monofilament Yarn Consist Of Only

A Single Continous Filament .
2. Multifilament Yarn :Multifilament Yarn Is A Filament
Yarn Made From Multiple Filaments Assembled With Or
Without Twist. Eg : Silk

Silk And All Man Made Fibres Are Filament Fibres.

 Staple Fibres :Staple Fibres Are Short Fibres Measured In

Inches Or Centimeters. They Range In Length From 2 to 46
cm.

 Size :
 Fibre Size Plays A Dig Part In Determining The
Performance & Land Of A Fabric.

 Large Fibre Gives Crispness, Roughness, And Stiffness.

Large Fibres Also Resist Crushing – Property Is Important
In Product Like Carpets.

 Fine Fibres Gives Softness & Pliability. Fabric Made With

Fine Fibres Drape More Easily.
Finess Is mEasured In Micrometers :
(A Micrometer Is 1/10,oo millimetre 1/26,400 Inch)
Standard Size :
Cotton 16-20
Flax 12-16
Wool 10-50
Silk 11-12
Six Fibre Finess

Cross Sectional View Of Fibres

1. Fibre Tenocity :Word Tenocity Means It Is Defined As
Weight In Grams Require To Break A Fibre Of 1 Denier
Tearing Strength.

 Denier : Denier No. Of Fibres In 9000 Metre Of Yarns.

 Tex :No. Of Grams 1000m Of Yarn.

 1 Denier :Denier Gives You Thickness Or Finess Of A

Fibre.

The Tenocity Of A Wet Fibre May Differ From The Tenocity

Of That Same Fibre When It Is Dry.

2. Fibre Absorbency :Fibre Absorbency Is Calculated In Terms

Of Moisture Regain. Is The Ability Of A Fibre To Take Up
Moisture From The Body Or From The Environment.

Moisture IS Expressed – Standard Condition :

Condition – 65% +/- 2%
Relative Humidity
And 21.1 C +/- 2 C
 Hydrophilic Fibre –Absorb Moisture

 Hydrophobic Fibre –Fibres Have Little Or No

Absorbency

 Hydroscopic Fibre –It Absorb Moisture Without Feeling

Wet. Eg : Cotton.
3. Fibre Elongation :It Need The Amount Of Stretch The Fibre
Can Withstand After Which It Breaks.

Elongation Should Be Consisdered In Relation To Elasticity.

 Softening Point And Stickening Point Is Imp. To Set The

Width Of The Fabric. It Is Also Called Heat Setting.

Fabric Soften But Doesn’t Melt

Glass Transition Temperature For Diff. Fibre Is Different.

This Is A Part At Which The Molecule In The Fibre Just Start
Moving Or Vibrating When Provides Any Energy.

Density (Gravity) -Measure Of Fibre Weight Per Unit

Volume.
Lower Density -Made Into Thick Fabric That Are More
Comfortable.
Higher density -Made Into Heavy & Thick Fabrics.

Resiliency :Resiliency Is The Ability Of A Fabric To Return

To It’s Original Shape After Bending, Crushing Or Twisting.
(Wrinkle Resistence Fabric)
Eg : Nylon – Excellent

Elastic Recovery :Elastic Recovery Is The Ability Of A

Fabric To Return To It’s Original Dimension Or Shape After
Elongation. It Is Measured As The Percentage Of Return To
Original Length.
 Effects Of Acids & Alkalis –

 All Protein Fibres Are Resistance To Acids.

 All Cellulosic Fibres Are Resistence To Alkalis
 All Protein Fibre Are Resistance To Acids But Not
Resistance To Alkalis
 All Cellulosic Fibres Are Resistance To Alkalis But Not
Resistance To Acids

Vegetable Fibre

Cotton :
 Cotton Plant

Production And Sources :

1. 1930 – 80 Wide 1950 – 1980 – 48 %
2. China, USA (Cotton)
3. Cotton Plant Is The Member Of Mallow Family.
4. It Obtain From Of Bottanical Grossypium.
5. From Planting To Maturity It Takes Between 175 And
225 Days Of Planting Endurity Its Growth Cotton Means
Plenty Of Water For Rising And Its Need Heat.
6. Its Height Range From 25 cm To Over 2 Metre
Depending Upon Variety, Climate Soil Fertilizer.
7. Cotton Is Shortest Fibre In All Textile Fibres Is
Technically Known As Short Staple And The One With
Long Fibre Is Called Long Staple.
 Types Of Cotton :
1. Uplant Cotton –90 % Of Us (Fairy White,Strong And
Dull Different Staple Length)
2. Egyptian Cotton –
 Import Into The U.S In Small Quantities.
 In The Southern States Of U.S.A Large Machines Are
Utilized In Poor Countries Auxan Or Buffaloes May
 Be Use For Traction, Harvesting Is Either By Hands Or
By Picking Machine.
 Hand Picking Extends Over A Several Weeks It Has
Advantage That Only The Fill Repined Balls Are
Collected And No Leaves Are Included.
 A Picking Machine With Usually Harvest The Whole
Crop In One Passage To Remove All The Leaves, The
Plants Are Defoliated By Spraying Them With A
Chemical Causing The Remaining Leaves Fall.
Gining :
1. Gining Is The Separation Of The Fibres From The
Seeds It Is Done By Special Machines. The Separated
Fibres Called Lint Have A Staple Length Between 15
To 50 mm. There Are Some Very Short Fibres Called
Linters.
Utilization :
1. Cotton Fibres Are Made Into Staple Fibres From Either
By Using Ring Spinning Or Rotor Spinning.
Commercial Qualities :
1. Different Varieties Are Grown In Different Countries
About 46 % In U.S.A. The Famous Giza Cotton Of
Egypt Are In Fact Of A Various A Long Staple
Varieties.
2. Sea Island Cotton Is Very High Quality Type Produced
In Very Small Quantities Staple In Most Aspect Of
Qualities Of Lies Between 20 mm To 40 mm.
Spinnable Fibre Have A Staple Length Greater Than
16 mm.
 3. Sea Island Cotton Can Be As Long As 16 mm.
4. Giza And Pema Are About 36 mm Uplant Is 28mm.
5. Cotton Fibre Are Find Weight Per Unit And Their
Length Is Between 1 To 4 DT (Denier Tex)
6. A High Quality Of Cotton Will Have A High Strength
Related To Its Fineness.
Colour Lustre :
1. The Colour Of Cotton, White Uplant Through Creamy
Giza And Pema To White Yellow And Brown.
2. Lustre Usually As Mat Have A High Quality Type
Silky Lustre.

The Linen :

Linen Plant Linen Fabric

Linen Fibre

 Flex (LINEN) :
1. Linen Has Been Known In Civilized Societies In Thousand
Of Years. Flex Was Already Been Cultivated
Systematically By Ancient Egyptians, Babylon And Other
Civilization Between 5000 And 4000 B.C.
2. Mummies From The Pyramid Of Egypt Are Wrapped In
Linen, Cotton Was Known In Ancient Egypt Until About
400 B.C.
3. Linen Was Specially Popular In The Middle Ages.
Production And Sources :
 World Production Of Flex Has Been Almost Constant For
The Last 25 Years Between 6 Lakh To 7 Lakh Terms. This
Represent About 1.5 % Of World Fibre Production.
 The Main Production Countries Are China, Russia, France,
Egypt, Belgium, Ukraine & Netherland.
 All Together There are About 20 Countries That Grown
Flex.
The Flex plant :
 Flex Fibres Are Extracted From The Stalks From The Flex
Plant For Extraction Which May Be Grown Either For Its
Fibre Or For Its Seeds.
 For Fibre Extraction Tall Varieties With White To Light
Blue Flowers At A Height Of 80 To 120 cm Are Grown
The Shorter Types Of Grown Are Lyneid Oil (Gummy
Substance) Flex Is A Annual Plant Its Must Be Reseeded
Every Year.
 Planting Is In March And April And Growth Takes 90 To
120 Days. The Plant Has Side Branches Only At The Top
Of The Stem From Which The Flowers Are Grown.
 After Flowering The Mature Plant Develop Seed Capsules
The Size Peas The Seeds Are About 2 mm And Very Rich
In Oil Harvesting July And August.
 Flex Plant

Harvesting IN Fibre Extraction :

 Pulling :Traditionally The Plant Are Harvested Whole
Including Roots In Order To Preserve The Full Length Of
The Fibre. Nowadays Machine Harvested Method Are
Also Used.
 Roughing :Roughing Out Remove The Seeds And Others
Extra Material From The Stem.
 Retting :Retting Degrades The Woody Parts So That The
Fibre Are Loose In The Flex Is Placed In The Tanks Of
Warm Water Where It Lasts For 5 To 8 Days.
 Drying :Drying Of The Flex Stalks Is By Mean Of Warm
Air Ovens.
 Breaking And Scutching :After Losing The Fibre From
The Woody By Retting The Flex Straw In Broken Th
Woody Parts Are Removed By Scutching The Products
 Are Line Fibre With The Length 45 To 90 cm And With
Length Of 10 To 25 cm.
 Hacking :It Is The Process Combing Out The Bast Fibres
Into Spinnable Fibre Bundle The Remaining Woody
Particle And Short Fibres Are Removed At The Same
Time.
Usages :
1. Clothing Comfort
 Thermal Isolation :
1. Yarns And Fabric Made From The Smooth Flex Fibres Do
Not Enclose Much Air And Have Relatively Poor
Insulation Properties. Linen Fabric Feel Fresh And Cool A
Distinct Advantage For Summer Clothing.
 Moisture Absorption :
1. Linen Is Highly Absorbent It Takes A Water Rapidly And
Release And Quickly Again To The Surrounding In Hot
Weather It Helps This Regulating The Micro Climate
Between Body And Clothing.
2. Next To Skin Comfort Flex Fibre Asked Stiffer And
Hardly Then Cotton And Are Their For Less Supple.
 Other Important Properties :
a. Strength :Flex Has A Very Good Tenacity And Durability
It Is Stronger Then Dry.
b. Elasticity :Flex Has A Low Elasticity It Creases Very
Badly.
c. Surface Lustre :Because Of A Smooth Surface Linen
Fabric Was A Subduded Lustre Does Not Soil Easily And
Does Not Soil Easily And Does Not Shed Lint.
 d. Fineness, Handle :The Coarse Fibre Bundle Give Linen
A Firm Handel.
e. Application :
Apparel Fabrics Accessories Household Industrial
Textiles Textiles

Leisure In Pockets, Bags, Bed Clothing, Ropes, Swing

Summer Wear – Shoes,Strimming. Table Clothes, Threads.
Blouses,Shirts, Drapes,
Trousers, Furniture, And
Jackets, Wall Covering,
Interline For Mattress Lining.
Stiffening.

Washing Chlorine Ironing Dry Cleaning Drying

Linen Can Be Can Be Can Be Iron Linen Can Be Can Be

Boiled Lower Bleached Upto 220 Clean With Tumbled
Temperature With C. All Of The Dried.
For Coloured Chlorine. Usual
Items. Solvents.

 Linen Seal :
 Linen Seal

1. Linen Industry Of Western Euro Has Created A Linen Seal

For Its Product And Registered Is Marked World Wide.
The Seal May Be Used To Identify Pure Linen And Half
Linen Textile. Linen Industry Regulation Specify That The
Linen Content Of Blend Must Be Atleast 50 % The Linen
Seal IS A Guarantee Of Quality.

Fibre Source Appearance Properties &

Name Application
Kapok Hair Cell From The Kapok Fibre Can’t
Kapok Fruit. Origin Be Spun Into Yarn
– India, Brazil, Because There Are
Indonesia, Mexico, Very Weak Their
East And West Density Only 0.35 g,
Africa. cm3 Due To Large
Air Luman The
Fibres Are Water
Repellent Fine, Soft,
& Lustures. Kapok
Are Used As
Stuffing And
Wedding For Eg.
Cushion, Bolster,
And Matresses In
Addition. Kapok Is
Suitable As Filling
To Life Jacket.

Hemp Bast Fibre From Hemp Fibres Are

The Stem Of The Very Strong
Hemp Plant. Origin Extensibility And
– Italy, Poland, Elasticity Are
Former, Similar To Flex The
Yugoslavia,USSR, Fibre Are Coarse
Romania, Spah. And Stiff They Rot
Only Slowly
Cultivated Of Hemp
Was Banned For A
While But
Nowadays Specific
Varieties Are
Allowed For Fibre
 Production. Hemp Is
Used For Ropes,
Tarpolins, & As
Making For Carpets
Apparel Uses Are
Being Developed.

Jute Bast Fibre From Jute Fibres Are Very

The Stems Of The Woody And
Plant. Origin – Irregular Strength Is
India, Bangladesh, Lower Than Flex
Pakistan. But Extensibility
And Elasticity Are
Similar. Jute Has A
Strong Aroma Jute Is
Manufactured Into
Packing Fabric, Wall
Covering, Base
Cloth For Belts.

Remi Bast Fibres From Remi Fibres Are

The Stems From Strong And High
The Remi Plant Grade Fibre Similar
Oriental Linen. To Flex They Are
Origin For East. Smooth And
Uniform Easy To
Tie And Resistant
To Light The Fibres
Are White With A
Durable Lusture.
Remi Used To Make
Fine Light And
Durable Fabric For
 Kitchen And Table
Clothes.

Sisal Hard Fibre From Sisal Fibres Have A

The Leaves Of The High Strength And
Sisal Plants. Origin Abbression Resistant
– Brazil, Indonesia. They Are Easy To
Dye And Are
Resistant To Water
They Are White In
Colour It Is Used For
Ropes, Carpets, Nets
And Matting.

Manila Of A Type Of A Manila Fibres Are

Banana. Origin – Very Resistance To
North America. See Water They
Have Relatively Low
Density It Used For
Marine Cables And
Ropes.

Coir Hard Fibre From Coir Fibres Are

The Coconut. Have A Very High
Origin – India, And Are Very
Indonesia, Sri Durable And Have A
Lanka. God Elasticity And
Good Insulator. Coir
Is Used Primary For
Stare Carpets, Stuff
Furniture Bakings.
They Are Often
Used For Raw Form.
 Wool :

Wool

 History :
 Wool Felts Were Known 7000 Years Ago In China, In
Babylon, And In Egypt. Shearing Of The Wool, Rather Than
Pulling, Was Made Possible By The Invention Of Cutting
Tools In The Iron Age. The Merino Sheep, Which Has The
Finest Wool, Was Bred In The 14th Century, In Spain. Sheep
Breeding Began In Australia At The End Of The 18th
Century . Today, Australia Rears About 160 Million Sheep –
About 14% Of The World Sheep Population.
 Production And Sources :
 Since The Turn Of The Century, The Production Of Wool
Has Roughly Doubled Production Of Scoured Wool Is About
1.5 Million Tonnes ; Unscoured Wool Is About 2.5 Million
Tonnes. This Represents About 3% Of Total World Fibre
Production. Sheep Are To Be Found In Almost Every Country
In The World.
  The Most Important Wool Producers Are :
1. Australia
2. Former USSR
3. New Zealand
4. China
5. Argentina
6. Uruguay
7. South Africa
8. Turkey
9. Great Britain
10. Pakistan

 Wool Production :
 Shearing :The Sheep Are Shorn Using Electric Shears. Care
Must Be Taken To Avoid Injuries And To Ensure That The
Coat Is Separated Intact. This Coat Is Called The Fleece.
Wool From The Legs Is Short And Coarse. Because Of Its
Lower Quality, It Is Separated From The Fleece During
Shearing.

Shearing
 Classing : After Shearing, The Fleece Is Graded Into
Essentially Four Qualities (1 = Best, 4 = Worst). The Grader
Classifies The Wool According To Fineness, Crimp, Length,
Impurities, And Colour. Heavy Contamination Is Found In
The belly Area.

Classing

 Scouring :An Unscoured Fleece Weighs Between 1 And 6 Kg.

The Average Australian Fleece Weighs 4,5 Kg. About 40%
Of This Weight Is Grease (Lanolin), Dirt, And Burs. The Dirt
And Most Of The Grease Are Removed By A Gentle
Scouring.
 Scouring

 Carbonising :Vegetable Impurities Are Removed, When

Necessary, By Treatment With Sulphuric Acid.

Carbonising

 Processing :Wool Fibres Are Spun Into Fine, Smooth Yarns

By The Worsted Process, And Into Coarser, More Bulky
Yarns By The Woollen Process.
 Processing

 Shearing – Lambswool :From The First Shearing, After Six

Months. It Is Fine, Not Very Strong, And Has Fine Tips.
Yearling Wool : From The First Or Second Shear After 10 -12
Months.
Six Month, Eight – Month, Twelve – Month Wools : Shorn At
Intervals Of 6, 8, Or 12 months.
 Source – Australian, New Zealand, Capeetc.
 Origin – Virgin Wool : Fibres Shorn From Living, Healthy
Sheep Or Lambs. Dead Wool, Fallen Wool : Wool Taken
From Sheep That Have Died From Natural Causes. Skin Wool
:Wool Removed From The Skin Of Slaughtered Sheep.
Recovered Wool : Wool That Has Been Recovered
Mechanically By Teasing Apart Production Waste And
 Second-Hand Clothing. Recovered Wool Is Damaged And Is
Of Low Quality.
 Spinning – Worsteds :Usually Fine Merino, Spun Into Fine,
Smooth Uniform, Combed Yarns. Woollens : Heavier, More
Voluminous Yarns Prepared On The Woollen Spinning
System. Carpet Wools :Long, Coarse Wools For Carpet
Yarns.
 Construction Of The Wool Fibre :
 The Wool Fibre Is Made Of Protein Molecules (Keratin). It Is
Very Similar To Human Hair. The Long-Chain Protein
Molecules Are Formed Into Fibrils. These Combine Into
Fibrillar Bundles Which Form The Mass Of The Spindle
Cells. This Construction Gives The Wool Fibre An
Extraordinary Elasticity. The Bulk Of The Fibre Is Made
From Two Separate Components. These Have Different
Chemical Constitutions, And They Wind In A Spiral Around
Each Other (Bilateral Structure). Moisture And Temperature
Have Different Effects Upon The Two Components, Which
Swell To Different Extents, Causing Changes In The Overall
Fibre Shape. It Is The Bilateral Structure Which Causes The
Fibres To Be Crimped. Heat And Moisture Together Can
Relax Bonds Between The Protein Chains. The Bonds Are
Re-Formed During Cooling And Drying And This Is The
Source Of The Good Smoothing And Shaping Properties Of
Wool.
 Wool Absorbs Moisture (Is Hygroscopic). It Can Absorb
About ½ Of Its Mass Of Water Vapour Without Feeling Wet.
The Moisture Is Released Only Slowly. In Spite Of The
Strong Affinity For Water Of The Fibre Interior, Its Surface Is
 Water Repellent (Hydrophobic)Because It Is Covered By An
Extremely Thin Skin, The Epicuticle. This Skin Causes
Liquid Water To Roll Up Into Droplets Whilst Allowing The
Passage Of Water Vapour.
 The Scales On The Fibre Surfaces Are Capable Of Hooking
Onto One Another To Cause Felting, Under The Influence Of
Water, Heat, And Mechanical Action.

 Clothing Comfort :
Thermal Insulation
In Smooth Yarns, The Fine Wool Fibres Are
Tightly Constrained; They Can Scarcely
Crimp. Fine Combed Yarns Enclose Less
Air And Therefore Provide Less Insulation
(Cool Wool). Bulky Woollen Yarns Have A
Looser Structure. The Fibres Can Develop
Their Crimp Inside The Yarn And; Due To
The Large Amount OF Entrapped Air, Offer
Excellent Protection Against Cold.

Moisture Absorption Wool Is Hygroscopic. It Can Absorb Up To

A Third Or Its Weight In Moisture Vapour
Without Feeling Wet. Perspiration (Weak
Acids, Alkalis, Salts) Will Be Chemically
Bound, And Neutralised. Water Vapour Is
Absorbed Very Rapidly. But Water Droplets
Are Repelled. Liquid Water Is Absorbed
Only Very Slowly. Such Behaviour Is
Called “Hydrophobic” . Wet Wool Dries
Very Slowly.

Next-To-skin Comfort The Softness Of Wool Depends On Its

Fineness. Lambswool And Fine Merino
Wool Are Especially Soft. Wools Which
 Are Coarser Than About 30 μm Can Irritate
The Skin.

 Other Important Properties :

Strength Wool Has Adequate Strength Which,
Nevertheless, Is Lower Than That Most Normal
Apparel Fibres. Textiles Made From Wool Are
Not Particularly Durable.

Extensibility The Fibres Have Very Good Extensibility, Which

Is Greater When Wet Than Dry. Dripping Wet
Wool Garments Should Be Laid Flat To Dry, To
Avoid Stretching.

Elasticity Elasticity And “Springiness” Are Excellent.

Creases Soon Drop Out Of Wool Clothing
(Especially Under The Influence Of Steam).

Formability The Molecular Chains In The Wool Fibre Can Be

Re – Oriented Under The Influence Of Heat And
Moisture. In This Way, Wool Fabrics Can Be
More Or Less Durably Shaped.

Felting Felting Is The Matting Together Of Fibres, Under

The Influence Of Mechanical Action, Heat And
Water. It Is Facilitated By The Scales On The
Fibre Surface Which Can Hook Onto Each Other.
The Effect Is Utilised For The Production Of
Felts But It Is A Disadvantage In The Aftercare
Of Wool Clothing.

Fineness, Handle Wool Fibres May Be Fine Or Coarse, Depending

On The Type. The Very Finest Merino Wools
(Less Than 16 μm) Are Designated As Super
100’s. They Are Sold At Special Auctions And
Made Into Extremely Fine, Soft Fabrics.

Electrostatic Charge Wool Fibres Develop Only Small Electrostatic

 Charges, Because They Always Contain Some
Moisture Which Conducts The Charge Away.

Flammability Wool Does Not Burn Easily. It Is Suitable For

Protective Clothing.

 Improvement Of Properties By Finishing :

Anti-Felting Treatment Wool Can Be Made Machine-Washable By
Chemical Treatments Which Greatly Reduce The
Tendency Of The Fibres To Felt.
Carbonising Removal OF Vegetable Impurities Using
Sulphuric Acid .
Decatizing Application Of Heat, Moisture, And Pressure
Stabilises And Smoothens Wool Textiles. Fabrics
Have Improved Handle And Lustre, And Are
Then Ready For Making Into Clothing.
Flame Retardance Protection Against Heat And Flames Can Be
Improved By Treatment With Chemicals Which
Combine With The Wool Protein Molecules.
Fulling Deliberate Felting Of Wool Materials. The
Material Shrinks And Becomes Denser.
Moth Proofing Impregnation Of The Fabric With Chemicals
Which Make The Fibres Inedible And To Which
The Moths Are Averse.
Permanent Creasing Ironed Creases Can Be Durably Fixed Through
Heat, Pressure And Chemicals (Siroset Process).
Raising Fibre Ends Are Teased Out Of The Textile
Material. The Weave Structure Is Obscured Often
Follows Fulling.
Water Repellency Wool Textiles May Have Their Water Repellency
Enhanced By Treatment With Chemicals.

 Applications :
Apparel Fabrics Accessories Household Textiles Industrial Textiles
Suits, Costumes, Ties, Scarfs, Hats, Blankets, Carpets, Fire Protection Clothing,
Pullovers, Socks, Stockings. Drapes, Industrial Felts.
Waistcoats, Furnishings.
Overcoats,
Dresses, Winter
Blouses.

 AfterCARE properties And Labelling :

Washing Chlorine Ironing Dry Cleaning Drying
Washable Should Not Iron At Can Be Cleaned Should Not Be Dried
Wool Can Be Be Chlorine 150ºC, With Using In A Tumble Dryer,
Machine- Bleached. Steam Or A Perchloroethylene. Or In Direct Sunlight,
Washed. Use Damp Cloth. Or Over Direct Heat.
Wool
Detergents.

 Textile Labelling :
 The Regulations Governing Product Labelling Allow The
Terms New Wool Or Virgin Wool To Be Used Only For
Fibres Shorn From A Living Sheep Or Lamb. Virgin Wool
Products Must Be Made From Wool Fibres Which Have Not
Previously Been Spun Into Yarn Or Felted, Nor Previously
Been Incorporated Into A Finished Product. Textiles Made
From 100% Virgin Wool May Be Labelled As Pure New
Wool, Or Pure Virgin Wool, An Allowance May Be Made
For 0.3% Of Adventitious Foreign Fibres, And Of 7% For
Visible Ornamental Effects. New Wool And Virgin Wool
Descriptors May Also Be Used In Blends Where There Is
Only One Other Fibre Present, And Where The Proportion
Of Virgin Wool Is At Least 25%. The Term Pure Wool May
Also Be Used For Products Made From Recovered Wool.
 Wool Mark :
 The Wool Mark Is Applied To Pure New Wool. As Well As
The Fibre Content, The Mark Guarantees A Certain Product
 Quality Level: Colour Fastness, Strength, And Dimensional
Stability.
 Wool Blendmark :
 The Wool Blendmark Is Applied To Blends Where There Is
Only One Other Fibre, And A Virgin Wool Content Of At
Least 60%. It Guarantees The Same Quality Levels As For
The Wool Mark. Both The Wool Mark And The Wool
Blendmark Are Strictly Regulated And Controlled.

 Fine Animal hairs :

Fibre NAme Appearance Description
 Alpaca, Llama,  Alpaca, Llama, Vicuna, And
Vicuna, Guanaco. Guanaco Are All Types Of
Llama, Both Wild And
Domesticated, Which Live In
The Andes Mountains Of
South America. They Are
 Shorn Every Two Years And
The Hairs Are Sorted By
Colour And Fineness. They
Are Fine, Soft, Lightly
Crimped And Very Warm.
They Are Used In Expensive
Knitted Fabrics, Jackets,
Overcoats, And Blankets.

 Camel  Camel Hair Is The Downy

Undercoat Of The Bactrian
(Two-Humped) Camel. It Is
Moulted Every Year, Is Very
Fine, Soft, Lightly Crimped
And Beige In Colour. Camels
Under One Year Old Are
Blonde, Almost White. Their
“Baby Hair” Is Especially Soft
And Valuable. Camel Hair Is
Used For Outerwear, The
Coarser Guard Hairs, And
Those Of The One Hump
Camel Are Used For
Interlinings.

 Cashmere  The Cashmere Goat Lives In

Mongolia And The
Himalayan Mountains At
Altitudes Of Up 5000m. The
Withstand The Cold, It Has
An Unusually Fine
Undercoat. At The Yearly
Coat-Change, The
Underhairs Are Separated
From The Coarser Guard
Hairs And Are Sorted By
 Colour. Textiles Made From
Cashmere Are Very Soft,
Light And Lustrous; It Is The
Most Expensive Hair Fibre.

 Mohair Yak  Mohair Is The Hair Of The

Angora Goat, Which May Be
Shorn Twice Each Year. The
Best Quality Comes From
Texas, South Africa, And
Turkey. The Hairs Are Long,
Lightly Curled, And Have A
Silky Lustre. They Are White,
And Do Not Felt Easily, And
Are Well Suited For Dyeing.
Mohair Is Used For
Outerwear.
 Yak Is The Hair Of The
Domesticated Tibetan Ox.

 Angora Rabbit  Angora Fibre Is The Hai Of

The Angora Rabbit, Which
Is Farmed In Europe And
East Asia. The Name
Derives From Ankara, In
Turkey. The Rabbits Are
Shorn Up To Four Times
Each Year. The Fine, Very
Light Hairs Are Very Good
At Absorbing Moisture
Vapour. They Are Used For
Thermal Underwear And Ski
Underwear. In Outerwear,
Inclusion Of The Coarse
Guard Hairs Gives Angora
Fabrics Their Typical Spiky
Appearance.
Within The Wool Mark, And The Textile Labelling Regulations, Fine Animal Hairs Have
Equivalent Status To Wool, Because They Have Similar Properties. So Long As They
Confirm To The Quality Requirements, Fine Hairs Can Be Labelled With The Wool Mark.

 Coarse Animal Hairs :

 Coarse Hair Are Used Mostly For The Manufacture Of Resilient And Stable
Interlining Materials. The Most Important Are Horse Hair, Camel Hair (Guard Hairs),
Cattle Hair, And Goat Hair.

Silk :

Silk Worm
Silk Fibre
 Silk Fabric

Silk Yarn
 History :
 According To Legend, Almost 5000 Years Ago The Chinese
Empress Si Ling Shi (Or Lei Zu) Observed A Silk Caterpillar
Spinning Itself Into A Cucoon. She Unravelled The Filaments
And Made A Fabric From Them.
 The Romantic Paid One Pound Of Gold For A Pound Of Silk
Fabric. Caterpillar Eggs Were Smuggled Into Europe In
About 555 AD And, From Then On, It Was Possible To
Produce Silk In The Mediterranean Region.
 Production And Sources :
 The World Production Of Raw Silk Is About 70,000 Tonnes.
This Is Less Than 0.2% Of World Textile Fibre Production.
 Silk Can Be Produced Only Where The Mulberry Tree Crows.
 The Most Important Producing Areas Are :
1. China
2. India
3. Japan
4. Former USSR
5. Brazil
6. Korea
7. Thailand
8. Turkey
9. France
 The Mulberry Silkworm :
 On Emerging From Its Egg, The Mulberry Silkworm Is Only
About 2mm Long. It Feeds On A Large Quantity Of Mulberry
Leaves.
 After About 30 Days, And After Moulting Four Times, It Will
Be As Large As A Middle Finger And Begins To Pupate.
Straw Or Twigs Are Supplied At This Stage For The
Caterpillars To Use. The Silk Fluid (Fibroin, An Animal
Protein) Is Extruded From A Spinneret Located Under The
Lower Lip. The Spinneret Located Under The Lower Lip. The
Spinneret Is Fed By Two Glands And The Emerging
Filaments Are Coated With Silk Gum (Sericin). Spinning
Takes About 3 Days, During Which A Twin Filament OF
About 3000 m Is Produced. The Silkworm Moves Its Head In
A Figure-Of-Eight Pattern To Create A Cocoon About The
Size Of A Pigeon’s Egg. The Tangle Of Loose Silk With
Which The Silkworm Originally Secured Its Position In The
Straw, Is Called Floss, Or Blaze.
 The Transition From Pupa To Moth Takes About 14 Days.
The Moth Dissolves A Portion Of The Cocoon Wall And
Crawls Out. The Moth Mate, The Female Lays, And Both Die
Immediately.
 The Harvest From 50000 Silkworms Is About 1000 Kg Of
Cocoons, Which Yield About 120 Kg Of Raw Silk.
 Wild Silk :
 Beside The Mulberry Silkworm, There Are Many Wild
Species. The Most Important Of These Is The Tussah. So Far,
This Type Of Silkworm Has Not Been Bred In Europe.
 Construction Of The Silk Filament :
 The Basic Fibre Substance Is Fibroin. Like Wool, It Is Made
From Long-Chain Protein Molecules. Each Of The Two
Individual Fibroin Filaments Is Constructed From Fibrillar
Bundles (Tiny Fibres) Which Themselves Are Made From
Microfibrils. The Microfibrils Are Built From The Protein
Chains.
 The Physical, Chemical And Clothing-Comfort Properties Of
Silk Are Determined By The Molecular Chains, And Their
Orientation In The Fibre Interior. These Are Disposed In
Crystalline Layers, Somewhat Like The Leaves Of A Book.
This Results In High Strength And Good Resilience.
 The Silk Gum, Or Sericin, Surrounds The Two Filaments And
Holds Them Together. It Is A Transparent, Water-Soluble
Protein, Which May Be More Or Less Pigmented In The
Usual Silk-Cocoon Colours Of Natural White, To Yellow Or
Orange-Yellow, For Mulberry Silk, Or Light Brown To
Reddish-Brown OR Dark Brown, For Tussah.
 Production Of Cultivated (Mulberry) Silk :
 Raw Silk (net Silk) : The Silk Cultivator Needs To Have
Undamaged Cocoons. He Kills The Pupa With Steam Or Dry
Heat. The Cocoons Are Placed In Hot Water, To Soften The
Gum, And The Filament Ends Are Found. The Filaments Are
Then Wound Up Onto A Reel. An Individual Filament Is Too
Fine To Be Wounded Separately, So 7 To 10 Of Them Are
 Collected And Wound Together To Form The Raw Or Greige
Silk. The Reeled Silk Is A Bundle Of Continuous Filaments,
About 1000 m Long, Coming From The Middle Part Of The
Cocoon, And Still Cemented Together By The Gum. Later,
Several Of These Bundles Will Be Twisted Together In The
Silk Throwing Process.
 Spun Silk :Unwindable Remnants From The Cocoons,
Together With Other Waste Silk, Are Converted Into Spun
Yarns By The Usual Methods. Spun Yarns Are Made From
The Longer Fibres, Separated At A Combing Machine. They
Are Fine, Smooth And Regular. Also Known As Schappe
Silk.
 Noil Silk :The Shorter Waste Fibres, In The Form Of Comber
Noils From Spun Silk Processing, Are Spun Into Coarser,
Irregular, Neppy Yarns Using The Woollen Spinning System.
Also Known As Bourette Silk.
 Recovery Of Wild Silk (Tussah Silk) :
 The Wild Tussah Cocoons Are Gathered From Trees And
Bushes. Wild Silk Is Not Easy To Degum And Usually Can
Not Be Reeled. Therefore, It Tends To Retain Its Natural
Reddish Or Brownish Colouring. The Filaments Exhibit
Variations In Their Fineness, Which May Look Like Irregular
Penciled Streaks.
 Wild Silk Has A Different Cross-Sectional Shape From
Cultivated Silk.
 Clothing Comfort :
Thermal Insulation Silk Is Seen As Both Cool And Warm. Filament
Silk Is Made Into Fine Fabrics, With A Small
 Volume Of Enclosed Air, Which Lie Smoothly on
The Skin. This Gives A Cooling Effect.
Nevertheless, These Fine, Compact Silk Fabrics
Are Good Insulators Because The Layer Of Warm
Air, Which Lies Between Fabric And Skin, Is Not
Able To Escape Very Easily.
Moisture Absorption Like Wool, It Can Absorb And Hold About 1/3
Of Its Weight Of Water Vapour Without Feeling
Wet. Liquids Are Absorbed Rapidly Into The Non
– Crystalline Regions Of The Fibre Interior.
Next-To-Win Comfort Silk Is Very Pleasant To Wear, Because Of Its
Fineness And Softness.

 Other Important Properties :

Lustre, Fineness, Handle The Most Important Properties Of Degummed
Silk Are Its Typical Lustre, Its Fineness And Its
Pleasant Handle.
Strength Silk Has A Very Good Tenacity.
Extensibility Extensibility Is Very Good; It Lies Between 10%
And 30%.
Elasticity Silk Has Outstanding Resilience. With The
Exception Of Very Fine, Smooth, Weighted
Woven Fabrics, It Does Not Crease Badly And
The Wrinkles Tend To Fall Out.
Electrostatic Charge It Builds Hardly Any Electrostatic Charge,
Because It Always Contains Moisture Which
Conducts The Charge Away.
Sensitivity Perpiration, Deodorant Sprays, And Perfumes
Can Cause Colour Changes, And Can Embrittle
The Fibre. Therefore Arm Linings Should Be
Used.
Scroop When A Silk Fabric Is Compressed By Hand, It
Makes A Rusting Sound Somewhat Like The
Crunching Of Fresh Snow.

 Improvement Of Properties By Finishing :

Degumming The Natural Silk Gum Makes Knitted And Woven
Raw Silk Fabrics Harsh And Rough. The Sericin
Gum Is Removed By A Gentle Boiling A Mild
 Soap Solution.
Weighting The Degummed Silk Is Made Heavier And Firmer
Again By The Addition Of Metallic Salts, Or
Other Chemicals.

 Properties of Different Of Silk :

 The Properties Given Above Apply Mainly To Degummed Net
Silk. These Properties May Vary According To The Source
(Cultivated Or Wild) The Fibre Type And Processing (Net
Spun, Bourette) And The Finishing (Raw, Degummed,
Weighted). The Table Gives An Overview Of The Most
Important Differences.

Degummed, Weighted, Wilk Silk

Cultivated Silk Cultivated SIlk
 Wrinkles Little.  Full  Coarse (Thicker Fibre, Different
 Supple.  Heavy Cross-Section)

 Fine Lustre  Stiff

 Is Seldom Degummed.

 Net :  Wrinkles
 Harsh Handle

 Smooth , Finest  Less Durable

 Heavier Than Cultivated Silk
 Spun, Schappe :  Stronger Lustre
 Darker, Duller Colours
 Fine, Smooth,  Dull Lustre
Regular The Burning Test Will  Not So Uniform
 Noil Bourette : Indicate Whether Silk
Has Been Weighted
 More Sensitive To Perspiration
 Coarser, Neppy,
With Metallic Salts.
Irregular.
 Man-Made Fibre

 Polyester :
I. Fibre And Source :
 Polyester IS A Man-Made Fibre.
II. Properties :
 It Is Strong
 It Has Very Poor Absorbency.
 It Rolds Body Heal.
 Resist From Shrinkage, Wrinkle, Stretching Smooth.
 It Cannot Be Dyes.
 It Has Excellent Crease Recovery.
III. Uses :
 Wife Variety Of Fabric Are Available In Many Weights.
  It Is Used For Making Dresses, Sports Wear Saris, Curtain,
Pillow Covers Etc.
IV. Care And Maintenance :
 Mostly Polyester Are Was Able In Warm Water By Hand
Or By Machine.
 It Requires Very Little Or No Ironing.
 Acetate :
 Fiber Acetate Is A Man Made Fiber.
I. Properties :
 It Is Relatively Weak.
 It Is Moderately Absorbent.
 It Holds Body Heat.
 It Tends To Wrinkle.
 It Dyes Well.
 It Is Resist By Shrinkage & Moath.
II. Uses :
 It Is Luxurious.
 It Has Excellent Draping.
 It Is Used For Making Dress etc.
III. Care And Maintenance :
 It Is Usually Dry Cleaned.
 It Is Washed By Hand On Gently Cycle Of Machine At
Low Setting.
 Iron At Synthetic.
 Rayon :
I. Properties :
 It Is Relatively Weak.
  It Has Fair Absorbency.
 It Holds Body Heat.
 It Has Good Attinity For Dyes.
 It Resist From Wrinkle Shrinkage Moth & Mildew.
II. Uses :
 It Is Used For Making Dresses, Blaise, Suits, Lining
Material Of Dress etc.
 It Is Available In Many Weights & Texture.
III. Care And Maintenance :
 Most Of The Rayon Must Be Dry Cleaned.
 Some Of Them Can Be Washable At Home Gentle
Machine Cycle.
 It Has They Should Be Ironed At Low Setting.
 Nylon :
I. Properties :
 It Is Strong.
 It Is Excellent Creases Recovery.
 It Has Good Absorbency.
 It Hold Body Heat.
 It Resist Form Shrinking, Moath &Mildew.
II. Uses :
 Wide Range Fabric Are Made By Blended With Other
Fabric.
 It Is Used For Making Dresses, Suits, Lining Material etc.
III. Care & Maintenance :
 It Can Be Washed By Hand Or Machine.
 Iron At Low Temperature.
  Lycra :
I. Properties :
 It Is Strong.
 It Is Non-Absorbent.
 It Has Great Elasticity.
 It Is Light Weight.
II. Uses :
 It Is Great Flexibility That Is Why Is Used For Making
Swim Wear & Dresses.
III. Care And Maintenance :
 It Should Be Washed By Hand Or Machine Using Gentle
Cycle.
 Chlorine, Bleach Should Be Avoid.
 Yarn

YArn

 Simple Yarn :
 Simple Yarn Are Characterized By Uniform Size And
Regular Surface. They Can Be Broadly Divided Into Single,
Ply, Cord, Rope Yarns.
1. Single Yarn : Single Yarn Is The Simplest Type Of Yarn. It
Is Commonly Produced By Twisting Together Staple Or
Filament Fibre.
2. Ply Yarn : PlyYarn Are Produced By Twisting Two Or More
Single Yarns Each Strand Of Single Yarn Is Referred To As
Ply.
3. Cord Yarn : Cord Yarn Are Produced By Twisting Two Or
More Ply Yarns.
4. Rope Yarn : Rope Yarn Are Produced By Twisting Two Or
More Rope Yarn.
5. Textured Yarn : Textured Yarn Are Made Of Fully Drawn
Filament Fibres With A Changed Surface, Shape And
Texture Developed By Using The New Spinning Technique
Eg. Nylon & Polyester.
 Yarn

 Yarn Is a Generic Term For A Continuous Strand Of A

Textile Fibre. Filament Or Material In A Form Suitable For
Knitting Or Weaving. Yarn Plays An Important Role In The
Fabric Manufacturing Process. Since, The Majority Of A
Textile Material And Constructed With A Yarn. Yarns Are
Also Used For Product Such As Swing And Embroidery
Thread, String And Rope.
 Fibre Length Is Used To Broadly Divided Yarn Into –
1. Spun Yarn (Made From The Short Staple Fibre).
2. Filament Yarn (Made From The Continuous Filament
Fibre).
Yarn Processing Methods For Spun Yarn Are Very
Different From Those Are Filament Yarn.
 Yarn Twist :
Yarn (Specially Spun Yarn) Are Twisted To Hold The Fibre
Together. The Number Of Twist Per Unit Length Is Used
To Measure Twist. Some Use The Common Used Of The
Yarn With Different Twist Are Given Below :
1. Filament Yarn Used For Smooth Fabric Have Low Or Very
Low Twist.
2. Yarn Used For Bulky Sweater And Pilled In Towels.
3. Most Spun Yarn Used For Woven Fabrics Have Average
Twist.
 Direction Of Yarn :
1. Yarns Are Twisted To Hold The Fibre Together.
S-Twist
Z- Twist
2. Direction Of Twist Fibre Can Be Twisted Together In The
Clockwise Due To Form Yarns. Yarns Are Twisted In The
Clockwise Direction For S-Twist And Counter Clockwise
For Z-Twist.
Yarn Numbering :
 The Yarn Numbering For Yarn Count. It Gives Thickness
Or Fineness Of Yarn. It Is Measured In Terms Of Linear
Density.The Word Lines Means Length.The Word Density
Means Weight.
 Yarn Numbering :
o Direction System
o Indirection System
o Direction System : Mass/Length Indirect System Length
Remains Constant Direct System Is Used For Long
Filament Fibre. Filament Fibre Measured In Metre.
 Denier : Number Of Grams Of 9,000 Metre Of Yarns.
 Tex : Number Of Grams Of 1,000 Metre Of Yarns.
 Deci Text : Number Of Grams 10,000 Metre Of Yarns.
Higher The Yarn Number Thickers Is The Yarn.
o Indirect System : Length Per Unit Mass Indirect System
The Weight Remain Used Constant. It Is Used For Staple
Fibre. Staple Fibre Measured In Inches.
Tpl = Twist Per Inch
Tm = Twist Multiplication
Ne = Yarn Count

 Tm :- For Weaving Yarn Is Different & Knitting Yarn Is

Different.
 Formula = No. Of Yarns x Length Of Yarns
169 Constant x Weight In Grams

Denier : 5315
NE

Tex :590.5
NE

 Yarn Spinning :
 Yarn Spinning Is The Process Of Making Or Connecting
Fibre Material Into Yarn Since Few Centuries Ago,
Spinning Have Been Known As A Process Of Converting
Raw Material Such As Cotton, Wool Yarns For Making
Textile Fabric.

Two Classes OF Spinning Processes

Hand Spinning Machine Spinning

 The Size Of Yarn Is Determined by Unit Of Tex, Count &
Denier.
 Hand Spinning :
o Process :
Carding – Twisting – Park (Rowing).
1. Carding : A Tool Such As Wool Card Will Be Used To
Remove Impurities On The Surface And Reduce Dump To
Ensure The Evenly Spun During Twisting Process.
2. Twisting : The End Of Wool Fibre Will Be Tied With The
Hook Of The Spindle, Twist. Spindle Is Clockwise
Direction.
3. Rowing : The Yarn Will Be Wrapped At The Below Section
Of The Spindle.
 Machine Spinning :
o After Industrial Revolutions, Many Development Have
Been Done By The Industry To Ease The Process
Effectively.
o These Are The Time Classifications Of Yarns That Will Be
Produced By Spinning Which Are Filament & Staple Yarn.
o Filament : These Yarns Are Made From Long And
Continuous Strands Of Fibre. Most Of Them From
Synthetic And Only Silk Represent For Natural Fibre Is
Filament.
o Staple : Staple Or Spun Yarns In Other Hands Are Made
From Short Length Of Fibre. It Can Be Found From N.F.
 As It Is Short Length, Staple Fibres Need To Be Held
Together With Others In Order To Get The Long &
Continuous Yarns.

Steps In Making Fibre Into Yarns

 For Making Yarns, There Are Few Stages Or Process Need

To Be Done, Each Staple And Filaments Have Different
Stages And Size For The Productive Process.
 Filaments :
 Several Common System Used By The Manufacturive Is
Spinning Industry For Filament Yarns.
o Wet Spinning
o Dry Spinning
o Melt Spinning
 Several Common System Is Used By The Manufacturers In
Spinning Industry For Staple Yarns.
o Conventional Ring Spinning.
o Air Jet Spinning.
o Open End Or Rotor Spinning.
 Yarn Manufacturing Process

Blow Room

Carding

Drawing

Combing

Roving

Ring Frame Yarns

Blow Room :
 The Blow Room Is A Facility Which Is Primarly Used For
The Cleaning, Mixing And Opening Of Cotton For Yarn
Production.
 Cotton Is Process Through Various Stages In As Areas
Through Different Machines And The Main Objective Is To
Refine The Cotton Bring Used In Yarn Production.

Carding :
 The Main Fun Of Department Is To Transform The Cotton
Into Sliver The Main Objective Hair Is To Maintain.
Uniformly, Element And Stretchebility Of The Fibre As Pen
The Desired Standard.

Combing :
 The Main Fun Of As Department Is To Transform Of The
Cotton Sliver Into More Fine And Also Putting Shout Fibre
To Get More Longer Fibre For Durability.

Drawing :
 At Stage It Will Be Pull The Sliver Length Wise Direction
Over Each Other Thus It Will Cause It To Be Stronger And
Thinner In Production Which Is Very Important In Evenness
Of Yarn. Most Of The Time Used Blending Process Where
Two Or More Different Types Of Fibre Will Be Blended To
Form A Yarn.

Roving :
 This Is The Final Stage Where The Prepartory Steps For
Insulation Of The Twist Enough Twist Given To Hold The
Fibre. The Main Process Involved Are Grafting, Twisting
And Winding The Silver And Shaping It Like Thin Role.

Ring Frame :
 This Is The Function Where The Yarn Is Finally Produced
The Roving Are Put On Machine Used Here And Passing
The Roving Through The Machine To Produce Yarn Once
TheCotton Thread Is Produced It Is Collected In The Form
Of The Bobin.
 Classification Of Yarns :

Simple Yarn Novelty Yarn Textured Yarn

Sketch Bulk
Single Thread Stub Yarn  Heat Set  High
Yarn. Flock Yarn Thermoplas Bulk
Ply Yarn. tic Yarn. Yarn
Spiral Yarn
 Chemical  Loop
Cord Or Cable Tweed Yarn Treated Yarn
Yarn. Chenille Yarn Natural
Double Yarn. Fibre.

Simple Yarn :
 Simple Yarn Are Characterised By Uniform, Size, And
Regular Surface. The Can Be Broadly Divided Into Single
Ply, Cord Or Cable Yarn.

Textured Yarn :
 Textured Yarn Are Made Of Fully Drawn Filament Fibre
With Changed Surface, Shape, And Textured Developed By
Using The New Spinning Technique Eg. Nylon,Polyester.
There Are Three Types OF Textured Yarn :
1. Stretch Yarn :Stretch Yarn Have Extremely High Level,
Elasticity, Extensibility And Recovery.
2. Modified Stretch Yarn :Modified Stretch Yarn Have
Some Degree Of Stretch But They Have Been Stablished
By Processing To Control The Stretch.

3. Bulk Yarn :Bulk Yarn Are Special Texture Yarn Designed

To Contribute Bulk To The Fabrics Then Flupy And Bulky
And Are Used For Sweators, Carpets And Wools Like Nits.
These Have Very Little Or No Stretch.

Fibre Blend :
 A Blend Is An Entimate Mixture Of Different Generic
Type, Composition, Length Diameter Or Colour Spunt
Together Into 1 Yarn. In Entimate Blends, Both Fibres Are
Present In The Same Yarn In Plent Propotion. Fibres Types
Cannot Be Seperated They Are Next To Each Other
Throughout The Yarn.
Mixture y. (l Yarn In Weft And Another In Moft)
 Mix Refers To Yarns Of Different Generic Types Within A
Fabric. In A Mixture Yarns One Fibre Type Are Used In
The Moft And Yarns Of Another Type Used In The Filling.
 Blends Mixtures And Combinations Produce Fabric Mid
Properties That Are Different From Those Obtained With 1
Fibre Only.
Blending Is Done For Several Reasons :
 It Helps In Positive Performance Of 1 Fibre :
 Compensate For Poor Perform.
 To Improve Spinning, Weaving And Finishing
Efficiency.
  To Obtain Better Texture, Hand Or Fabric Appearance.
 To Minimize Fibre Cost.
 To Obtain Cross Dyes Or Unique Colour Effects.

Spinning

 These Procedures Shorten And “” Yarn Spinning By

Eliminating Or By Passing Some Of These Steps In The
Conventional Ring Spinning System Most Process Focus
On Eliminating One Or More Of These Steps :
A. Draving
B. Rowing

 Ring Spinning :
 The 2 Dominant Spinning Systems Are :
1. Ring And Open End Spinning/Rotor Spinning.
 Open End Spinning :
 Open End Spinning Elements & Roving And Twisting By
The Ring. Notes Are Eliminating Larger Packages Of Yarn
Are Forms, Less Operator Super Vision Is Needed.
A. Ten Times Faster Than Ring Spinning.
B. Air Jet Spinning Is Similar To Rotor Spinning, Regular
Yarn Is Formed By Moving Air Rather Than A Rotor.
 By Moving Air Rather Than A Rotor.
 Air Jet Yarns Are Weaker, Less Elastic And Rougher Than
Either Rough Spinning Yarn.
Eg : Polyester Blund.
 Disadvantages :
 It Can Spin Short Fibres.

 Advantages ( Ring Spinning) :

 Fine Yarn Count
 Low Production Rate
 Soft Test Hand
 Widest Yarn Count Range

Weaving

Basic Weave :
 Plain
 Twill
 Satin
Decorative Weave :
 Pile Weave
 Dobby
 Sport
 Jacquard
 Leno/Quaze
 Slivel

 Most Of The Fabrics Are Made On Simple Room The

Wooven Fabrics Consist Of 2 Sets Of Yarn Intersects At
Right L At Each Other 2 Sets Of Yarn Used As.
1. Weft (Horizontal)
2. Warp (Vertical)
 The Manner In Which The Sets Of Yarn Interlace
Determine The Type Of Weave & Also The Characteristic
Of Cloth.

 Plain Weave :

Plain Weave

 Appearance : The Plain Weave Is The Simplest Form Of

Weaving In Which The Yarn Look Completely And Closely
 Packed .Each Weft Yarn Goes Alternatively Over And
Under Each Weft Yarn.Simple One Up And One Down
Interlacing Can Be Seen Very Clearly In The Fabric. They
Are Reversible If Not Printed.
 Construction : It Consist Of Interlacing Of Warp Or Weft
Yarn (One Up One Down). Plain Weave Fabric Is A Strong
Cloth And Its Thread Are Interlaced Tightly Because The
Upper And Under Passage Of Alternate Yarn Give Firmness
And Rigid.
 Uses Of Plain Weave : It Is A Strong Weave Fabric Made
Mid This Weave Are Not So Expensive. It Is Mostly Used
In Dress Mat, Table Clothes And In Hankies.
 Variations :The Plain Weave May Also Have Variations
Including The Following.
 Rib Weave (2 Up And 1 Down) :

Rib Weave

 The Feeling Yarns Are Larger In Diameter Then The Warp

Yarns A Rib Weave Produces Fabrics In Which Fever
Yarns Per Sq. Cm. Due Visible On The Surface Filling
Ribbed Fabric In This Group Include Broad Cloth, Poplin
Taffeta Etc.
  Basket Weave :

Basket WEAVE

 The Variations Of The Plain Weave Known As The Basket

Weave Or Check Board Pattern Contrasting Are Often Used
In Expensive Less Durable Than Plain Weave. The Basket
Weave Uses Double Yarns To Produces The Design That
Resembles The Familiar Patterns Of The Basket. Here Two
Or More Yarns Are Used In Both Warp And Filling
Directions. The Weave Used In Oxford. Skirting Various
Slightly From The Regular Basket Weave.
 Household Weave :
 Draperies, Table Clothes, Upholestry, Wall Hangings,
Pillows.
 There Are Two Types Of Weave Come Under This
Category Ex. Regular Or Irregular Weave.
I. Regular Weave : This Is Commonly Used For Edges In
Drapery Or As A Bottom In Very Small Weave Repeats
Because The Texture Is Too Loose Fitting For Big Weave
Repeats.
II. Irregular Weave : This Is Generally A Combination Of
Irregular Warp And Weft Ribs. Eg. Of Basket Weave :
1. Monk Cloth : Heavy Cotton Cloths In A Coarse
Basket Weave Chiefly Used For Draperies.
2. Oxford : Oxford Weave Fabric Consists Of Two,
Their Warp Yarns Woven The Very Soft, Thicker
Yarn In The Filling Direction. The Primary Use Of
Oxford Weave Fabric Is In Cotton Shirting.
 Twill Weave :
 Appearance : This Weave Is Characterized By A Diagonal
Effect Like Chevron, Hounds Tooth, Corkscrew Or Other
Designs. The Design Is Enhanced With Colored Yarn Is
Strong And May Developed A Shine. Twill Weave Is
Characterised By Diagonal Ridges Formed By The Yarn
Which Are Visible In Front And Back Of Fabric. They Can
Be Produced Infancy Design.
 Construction :
o The Warp Yarn Goes Own Weft Yarn. As Soon As The
Weave Is Completely The Diagonal Effect Is Visible The 2
Types Of Twill Weave.
o Twill Weave Is Made.
 Towards Right Hand
 Towards Left Hand
o If The Diagonal Move From Upper Right To Lower Left
Them It Will Be Right Hand Twill Weave.
2 x 1 Right Hand Twill Weave
2 x 2 Right Hand Twill Weave
o If The Diagonal Move From Upper Left To Lower Right
Then It Will Be Left Hand Twill Weave.
o The Characteristics Of Twill Of Their Density (Relative
Width Of A Fabric).
2 x 1 Left Hand Twill Weave
2 x 2 Left Hand Twill Weave
 Uses :Twille Weave Have Distinctive And Attractive
Appearance. This Weave Is Very Strong And Durable
Fabrics Are Used For Making Jeans, Pants, Jackets etc.
Fabric Use Denim, Gabardine.

Left Hand Twill Weave Right HAND Twill Weave

 Satin Weave :
 Satin Weave

 Appearance : They Have Characterised By Long Floats

Surface. Its Surface Is Very Smooth. In Satin Weaves
Long Floats Of Warp Threads Or Closely Seam.
 Construction : Long Floats Are Closely Seam On The
Graph As Well As On Fabric. In Satin Weave Warp
Threads Are More Prominent .
 Uses : Fabric Made With This Weave Are Not So Durable
As Plain Or Twill Weave. These Fabrics Are Used For
Making Dress, Lining Material. Sometimes Curtain
Material Used For Ribbons, Trimmings etc.
 Satin Weave :It Is The Reverse Side Of Satin Weave. This
Position Is Not So Smooth. Its Not Lustures Also, Long
Floats Are Seen On This Side Also.

A. Micron’s :Wool Is Sold In Micron Higher The Micron

Thickness Will Be Wool. Lower The Micron Finer Will
Be The Wool.
B. Cotton :Microns Value Diameter Is Calculated.
 Basic Weave Chart

Weave Structure PRoperties Typical Fabric

1. Plain  Each Weft  Easily  Batiste, Cheese Cloth
Passes Produced Genghan, Voil.
Alternatively Inexpensive,
Over And Under Durable &
Each Warp In A Adoptable
Square Pattern Dyeing.

2. Basket  Two Or More  Inexpensive,  Monk’s Cloth Oxford.

Warps Simu” Durable,
Interlaced With Absorbent
One Or More Soils More
Weft. Easily.

3. Ribbed  Plain Weave  Drapes Well,  Poplin etc.

Mid Wales Or Durability
Cards In Warp Effected By
Or Weft. Pronounced
Rips, Yarn
 Slippage.

4. Twill  Warp Or Weft  Strong,  Denim, Drill, Tweed.

Floats Over Increased
Two Or More Drapability,
Counterpart Flexible And
Yarns In “”
Progressively
Stepped Up
Right Or Left
Direct.

5. Satin  Four Or More  Lustrons,  Satin, Slipper etc.

Shaft With Drapability
Warp Floats In
Interrapted
Diagonal.

6. Sateen  Four Or More  Similar To  Sateen

Shafts With Satin.
Weft Floats In
Interruted.

Loom :

Loom
 A Mechanical Device Which Interweaves Yarns Into A
Fabric. Usually There Are Two Sets Of Yarns ( Warp &
Weft) Which Are Interlaced To Make The Fabric.
 The Classification Of Loom In Shown Below.
1. Conventional/Shuttle Loom :
 Plain Loom
 Twell Loom
 Dobby Loom
 Jacquard Loom
 Special
2. Automatic Loom
3. Modern/Shuttle Less Loom :
 Missile/Projectile Loom
 Rapier Loom
 Airjet Loom
 Water Jet Looms
Weaving And Essential Weaving Operation :
 A Measure Method Of Fabric Construction Is Weaving.
However, The Process Of Interlacing Warp yarn With The
Instead Weft Yarn In A Definite Order To Form A Fabric
Suitable For Use As A Dress Material Or Industrial Purpose
Is Called Weaving. The Machine Used For This Purpose Is
Called Loom.
 In A Woven Fabric The Length Wise Yarns Which Run
From The Back To The Front OF The Loom And Form The
Basic Structure Of The Fabric Are Called The Warp Or End
 The Crosswise Yarns Are The Weft Also Referred To As
The Weft Or Pick.
Note :
 Warp Are Called Ends
 Weft Are Called Picks
 Ends /Inch x Pick x Inch Is EPI x PPI ( Warp x Weft)
 Fabric Construction :
 Fabric Construction Is Defined As Number Of Warp Yarn
And No. Of Weft Yarn In 1 Square Inch.
 In Any Type Of Weaving Process For Operations Are
Fundamentals They Are Perform In Sequence And Are
Constantly Repeated And Must Be Synchronized. So That
The Operations Occur In Their Sequence And Do Not
Interfere With One Another.
 SHedding :
 Alternate Warp Yarns Are Raised To Insert The Filling
Yarn Into The Warp To Form A Shedd. Shedding Is
Automatically Performed By The Harness On The Modern
Weaving Looms. Harness Is The Rectangular Frame
Through Which A Series Of Wire IS Called Headers Frame
As Each Warp Yarn Comes From The Warp Beam In
Passes Through And Opening In The Middle.
 Picking Up :
 As The Warp Yarn Are Raised Through Shedding The Weft
Yarn Inserted Through The Shed By Device.
 Beating Up :
 This Weaving Operation Is Also Called Batning. In It All
Warp Yarns Are Passed Through The Heddle Ilets And
Through Opening In Another Frame That Looks Like A
Comb And Its Known As Reed.
 Taking Up And Lighting OFF :
 As The Shedding, Picking And Battening Process Are
Being Operated. The New Fabric Is Wound As On The
Cloth Beam Binding The Finish Fabric On The Cloth
Beam And Releasing More Of The Warp From The Warp
Beam.
 Shuttle Loom :
 The Shuttle Loom Is Oldest Type Of Weaving Loom
Which Loses Are Shuttle Which Contains A Bobin Of
Filling Yarn That Appears Through A Hole Situated In A
Side. The Shuttle Is Batted Across The Loom And During
This Process It Leaves A Try Of The Filling At The Rate
OF About 110 To 225 Picks Per Minute.
 Shuttle Less Loom :
 Many Kinds Shuttle Less Loom Arrived For Weaving Such
As Projectile Loom, Air Jet Loom And Water Jet Loom.
Projectile Loom :
 It Is Sometimes Called Missile Loom As The Picking
Action Is Done By A Series Of Small Bullet Like
Projectile Which Hold The Weft Yarn And Carried It
Through The Shed And Written Empty. All Filling Yarn
Are Inserted From The Same Side Of The Loom And
Special Tucking Device Holds The End Of The Weft In
Place At The Edge Of The Cloth To Form The Selvage.
 This Loom Need Smooth Uniform Yarn Which Properly
Size In Order To Reduce Friction. Projectile Loom Can
Produce Upto 300 PPM And Is Lest Nozier Than The
Shuttle Loom.
 Rapier Loom :
 Rapier Loom Comes In Many Types Easy Models Of It.
Used One Long Rapier Device That Travels Along The
Width OF the Loom To Carry The One Side To The Other
Another Type Of Loom Has To Rapiers One On Each Side
OF The Loom Rapier Looms Are Very Efficient And
There Speed Ranges From 200 To 260 PPM These Looms
Can Manufacture Are Variety OF Fabrics Ranging Muslin
Fabric To Drapery Fabrics
 Water Jet :
 A Pre Measured Length Of Weft Yarn Is Carried Across
The loom By A Jet Of Water This Loom Are Very Fast
With Speed Upto 600 PPM And Very 1000 Noice. Also,
Only That Are Not Readily Absorbent Can Be Used To
Make Fabrics On Water Jet Looms Such As Filament Yarn
Of Acetate, Nylon, Polyester And Glass.

 Airjet Loom :
 In The Airjet Weaving Loom A Jet Of Air Used To
Proper The Weft yarn Through The Shed Of Speed Of UP
600 PPM. Uniform Weft Yarns Are Needed To Make
Fabrics On This Loom. Also Heavier Yarns Are Suitable
For Air Jet Looms As The Lighter Fabrics Are Very
Different To Control Through Shed.
 CircularLoom :
 These Looms Are Particularly Used For Making Tubular
Fabrics Rather Than Flat Fabrics. A Shuttle Device In IT
Circulator The Weft In A Shed Form Around The
Machine. A Circular Loom is Primartly Used For Baging
Material.