My Hyundai i30 CRDi 1.

6 litre 2009 model

Engine oil and engine filter replacement that I performed.
You want the oil warm for draining so do this when you come back from a drive.

OK so this is what we see when we open the bonnet

Diesel fuel filter

(just out of interest)

Engine oil filler cap

2 x bolts use 10 mm
socket to remove.
There are two unseen
Engine oil dip stick engine cover clips at
the back, just pull the
cover up when the
bolts are undone and
they will pop off. (See
in the next slide)

Engine oil filter cover

The electrical connection on this solenoid is
going to get in the way, so push the wire clip
down and slide the plug out of the socket. It’s
tempting to get a screwdriver under the wire and
try to pull it up, but you push it in. Never force
anything.
Wire retaining clip sits
proud of the plastic
plug main body

The two unseen

engine cover clips.

This is a clearer view of the engine oil

filter cover, this needs a 28mm socket
to undo it – the two clips hold the
cover in the socket when you’re done.
Close up of the engine oil filter cover.
The symbol is 25Nm, this is telling
you to tighten it to 28 Newton metre’s
of torque when you put it back. This is
a plastic cover so take care.
Here we go then – don’t need a
torque wrench to get it off.
Put a rag around the area to catch
drips and have a container handy.
I used a 4 litre ice-cream carton to
keep the oil contained.
And here’s the element in all it’s glory
after 15,000 kms.
I need to check which element it is to order the right part
since two are possible, one is 104mm the other is 122 mm
Let’s call this 104 mm.
So I need a Ryco R2695P (Repco ROF142) or contact
Hyundai or Hyspares.
So here’s my new filter Ryco R2695P, always a good idea to Just for reference (never know when you might need it). Old
check measurements, use a ruler or even just stand side by filter from last service (Done by local service centre – not
side to see if it looks right – you’d be surprised how often you Hyundai) was marked “Mahle OX351 26330-3C300 made
can get a wrong part. The Ryco looks to be finished a little in Australia”
better than the Mahle filter but performance wise – I wouldn’t
know. Cost for 2 x R2695P plus delivery (as they weren’t in
stock) was AU$52.84 from Supercheap Auto Rowville.
Excellent service and next day delivery, very professional.
Two o’rings and a washer came with the
filter.
Again, old vs. new, always check
dimensions. If it’s not the right size I
wouldn’t be fitting it.

So in a pack along with the filter was an

aluminium washer and two o’rings. The
small one is to replace the existing o’ring on
the end of the plastic guide. You’ll change it
because it’s your car but will the service
centre? Pinch the old one round the outside
of the slot and push the lose bit up over the
rim – I didn’t need to use a screwdriver.
Note – that little hole in the end is where the
out flows out of back into the engine, it isn’t
very big is it.
Clean all oil from the inside of the lid with a
clean cloth.

Remove the o’ring from the groove, replace

with the large o’ring supplied in the pack
with the new filter.
I pushed the filter home in the plastic cover, it was
a fairly tight fit as the white felt section of the filter
slid up the guide and then I pushed a bit more and
it went over a retaining clip on the inside of the cap,
I was left with 80mm from the face of the filter to
the shoulder of the cap where it will seat on the
housing rim below

This white felt sealing section is

a number of mm smaller than the
solid plastic support behind it.
Presumably the felt is designed
to give and seal on the round
aluminium casting in the bottom
housing. It’s neat and I believe
it’s effective.

I then put a steel rule over the oil filter recess

face and measured down to the 3 x webs you can
see in the bottom of the filter housing, it was
80mm – a perfect match.

No O’rings here, the white felt section of the filter

will seal on the extended aluminium circular
section rising well proud of the 3 x webs. OK all
good.
Old oil is left in the filter housing, I used a
syringe to suck up a total of 7ml before wiping
out the remainder with a clean cloth.

Rub a little bit of new oil onto the new o’rings

first (big and small)
This is the cleaned housing where you now
put the pointy end of the filter/cap assembly
into the hole and screw down firstly by hand.

Remember this is a plastic cap, be careful not

to cross thread, if it’s tight at the beginning
then it’s not right – don’t force. Once a few
threads are engaged and the o’ring is coming
up to the housing you will need a socket.
I used a torque wrench at 25Nm to tighten it up.
Put the plug back on the solenoid – it just pushes on.

OK then let’s drain the oil and refill with new.

This is a view from behind the front right hand side wheel.
The cardboard is just for me to lie on when I get under the
car. The oil drain plug is through this hole in the engine
shield.
Here’s the drain plug (sump plug) use a 17 mm socket to undo. I’ve got a vacuum pump that
sucks the oil out of the dipstick hole and contains it nicely - so I’ll use that.

Note – the sump plug isn’t right at the very very bottom of the sump – it’s up a bit, so maybe
100 or 200 ml of oil won’t drain out?

I bet the aluminium washer supplied with the filter is a new sump plug washer – nice touch.
A dozen pumps on the handle of my vacuum
pump and the warm oil comes pouring into
my oil drain tool.

A good check to see that it’s drained is to

look at the volume, I’ve sucked exactly 5
litres out. I’ve used this device on my other
two cars, the first time I did it on each car I
then removed the sump plug to see if there
was any significant amount of oil that it didn’t
remove – in both cases nothing more than a
few drips came out of the sump plug. I’m
confident that this has removed as much oil
as I would by removing the sump plug – if not
more. (Remember the position of the sump
plug)
The spec says 5.3 litres of oil, so you’re going to pour your selected oil
in here. I use a funnel with a filter on the bottom. I poured the full 5 litre
bottle in and checked on the dip stick. It was at the top hole which was
around 4 mm short of the scribed “Full mark” Put it like this – it was full
enough.
I went for a drive round the block for a few kms and then let the car stand
on level ground for 5 minutes. Checked again, same result.
I did buy a second bottle of oil but I’m not adding any more, I’ll use this
for the next service.
This now raises the question, do we need 5.3 litres or is 5.0 litres
enough. Since bottles come in 5 litres it’s a shame to have to buy
another bottle just to use 300ml’s. I’m not going to, but that’s up to you to
decide.
I wonder if the service centre charges you for 2 bottles or they just put
the 5.0 litres in? Remember I only got 5.0 litres out.
Put the engine cover back on, locate and push down on the two clips on at the back and tighten the two bolts at the front with a 10
mm socket. Job done, 1 hour once you have the parts..
Cost to me - Oil filter Ryco R2695P from Supercheap Auto AU$26.21, 5 litres Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 on special at Repco
AU$ 51.99. It will cost me a further AU$5.00 to dispose of the 5 litres of oil at the recycle center which is the right thing to do.
Total = AU$83.20

Price for a “Service Center” to do this???? You’ve just saved yourself at least $100

You know - I’ve voided my warranty by doing this myself. (2 year, 30,000 km oil change, Note - I’ll be documenting the rest of the
service later) Do you think the Service Centre would take this much care, would they change the o’rings, would they clean out any
residual oil, would they check it’s the right part, would they use the best oil, would they put 5.3 litres of oil in or just the 5.0 same as
me?

If anyone in Melbourne finds this of use and wants to treat me to a day out on Port Phillip Bay fishing in their boat, then send me
an email, I’m available most of the time. Cheers
Steve R