Date of publication: October 2014

Tokyo Gourmet Guide: The Expert Edition

HOT TOKYO EATERIES RECOMMENDED BY
METROPOLIS MAGAZINE & ALL ABOUT
Sushi

A
s the sun rises in Tokyo, sushi chefs from restaurants across the city head to the world-renowned Tsukiji Fish
Market to select freshly caught fish for the day’s menu. Every tiny detail is considered, and for chefs who’ve
spent their entire lives perfecting the craft, only the best-quality ingredients are considered acceptable.
Today’s internationally recognized form of sushi was created at the end of the Edo era (1603-1868) and is
considered an early incarnation of fast food. For those unfamiliar with the various types of sushi, you can let the
chef know your budget then say, “Omakase” (which means “up to chef’s choice”) in order to be served a selection of
recommended items for that day. Ordering like this will have you eating like a local in no time!

Numazuko Otaru Masazushi Ginza

Recommended by
Numazuko offers a great
kaitenzushi experience.
Kaitenzushi is an affordable and
relaxed alternative to traditional
sushi shops where sushi plates
rotate from seat to seat on a conveyor and customers simply pick
up a dish—or order one directly from a chef. Tucked underground
near Shinjuku station’s west exit, Numazuko's extensive menu
boasts over 100 varieties of sushi and also offers a wide selection
of beer, sake and Japanese white wine. B2 MY Shinjuku Bldg.
1-10-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. Tel: (+81) 3-5321-6008
Recommended by
Otaru Masazushi Ginza is one of two Tokyo branches of an
Otaru, Hokkaido-based 76-year-old sushi restaurant. The
restaurant literally goes to great lengths to bring the taste
of Otaru to their Tokyo customers, shipping in area fish
and other local ingredients by same-day air delivery. While
not necessarily a budget-minded choice for a sushi dining
experience, it’s certainly cheaper than a trip to Hokkaido—and
the seafood is just as fresh. Pola Ginza Building 10F, 1-7-7
Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-3562-7711

Rokuroku
Recommended by
Rokuroku is a traditional
edomae sushi restaurant
located in one of Tokyo’s
premier hotels, the Grand Hyatt
Tokyo, in the international area
of Roppongi. The master chefs there take pride in their craft,
selecting only the highest quality ingredients and ensuring the
entire culinary experience is a treat for all five senses. The interior
design at Rokuroku is a piece of art in itself, perfectly blending
nature with the cityscape. 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku. Tel: (+81)
3-4333-8788
Tokyo Ramen
T
hough ramen
noodles originally
came from
China, they’ve become
synonymous with
Japanese cuisine.
The much-loved
dish varies greatly
between prefectures,
cities and even local
neighborhoods, and is
such an integral part of
Japanese culture that
instant ramen was once
voted the most important
invention of all time.
Each of the four main
types of ramen has its
own base ingredient:
shoyu (soy sauce), shio
(salt), tonkotsu (pork bone soup) and miso (fermented soybean). Within these four categories are countless minor
variations—such as tsukemen, which consists of ungarnished noodles with a separate broth for dipping. Most of
Tokyo’s estimated 20,000 ramen shops specialize in a specific flavor of soup, and some are even known for their
specialty noodles, which you might see being made fresh on-site. Explore to discover your favorite flavor!
Most shops make ordering a breeze: just put a few coins in the machine by the door, make your selection and
hand the paper slip to the staff. Regardless which type you choose, a filling bowl of ramen is inexpensive fuel for a
long day of sightseeing.

Rokurinsha Hope-Ken Taishoken

Recommended by
Rokurinsha is the crown jewel of Tokyo
Ramen Street, where the best ramen joints
in Japan have set up branches. The shop is
famous nationwide for tsukemen, a ramen
variant where the noodles are dipped in a
separate bowl of broth. The tsukemen here
features thick, dangerously chewy noodles
and a hearty signature broth, crafted from
a blend of meats and fish, that has both
regulars and critics alike raving. Tokyo
Station First Avenue Tokyo Ramen Street,
1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (+81) 3-3286-0166
Recommended by
Hope-Ken is famed for its traditional
tonkotsu ramen recipe that has remained
in the same family for over 70 years. The
main store, at Kichijoji station’s north
exit, has an atmosphere that captures
the store’s yatai (pop-up food stall) roots.
The classic recipe evokes a bygone day in
Japan when ingredients were fresher and
dishes simpler—a welcome change from
the tang of contemporary ramen, and well
worth a try.
1-14-12 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino-shi.
Tel: (+81) 422-20-0530
Recommended by
Taishoken’s founder first opened a
ramen shop with his brother in Nagano
before the war. Not ones to waste
their daily, hand-made ingredients, the
brothers would dip leftover noodles
in the remnants of the day’s soup
before eating. Customers noticed, thus
tsukemen was born. While it’s has
become standard fare at many ramen
shops, Taishoken is the one that started
it all—and a worthy pilgrimage for all
ramen fans. 2-42-8 Minamiikebukuro,
Toshimaku. Tel: (+81) 3-3981-9360
Wagashi & Sweets
T
okyo is a haven for any visitor with a
sweet tooth. The capital is home to an
abundance of fine patisseries filled
with edible temptations. From fresh whipped
cream mousse cakes and fruit tarts to
exquisite macarons and chocolate parfait,
Tokyoites are spoiled for choice when it
comes to indulgences. Visitors will find a little
difference from their customary tastes, as
the capital’s food artisans imbue each piece
with a local sensibility of nuanced sweetness.
The icing on Tokyo’s cake is its wagashi—
traditional Japanese sweets that have been
perfected over generations. All Japanese
food places an emphasis on color and
presentation, but perhaps none more
so than wagashi—which come intricately
designed in every color imaginable. The most
popular ingredients are mochi (rice cake), anko (azuki bean paste), fruit, sweet potatoes, sesame, agar and chestnuts,
with the favor leaning toward, smooth natural sweetneners.
The appreciation for seasonal changes evident in cultural events is also an important part of wagashi and sweets in
Japan, something tourists can enjoy no matter what time of year they visit.

Baikatei
Recommended by
In Tokyo’s upscale
Kagurazaka, Baikatei
offers an introduction
to the world of wagashi.
The family-operated
candy shop, which turns
80 next year, clearly
knows their stuff—and it’s evident in the flavor. All of Baikatei’s sweets
are handmade and contain no additives or food colorings including its
original take on traditional wagashi. Among its best sellers is a fish-shaped
“tempura”—basically a lightly oil-fried monaka (bean jam-filled wafer). 6-15 Toshi Yoroizuka
Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-5228-0727 Recommended by
Toshi Yoroizuka’s café is an excellent

Sweets
place to experience Japan’s pursuit
of perfection applied to Western-
Paradise style sweets. A variety of cakes and
Recommended by other desserts can be purchased
Sweets Paradise is a for takeout, but it’s best to order
restaurant specializing in treats directly from the menu, as
an all-you-can-eat buffet the European-trained Yoroizuka or
of desserts, with non- his chefs will whip up their heavenly
sweet food options such creations before your eyes. The 14-
as pizza and pasta also seat counter fills up fast, so plan
available. Stepping through the colorful entrance of its Shinjuku branch, accordingly when visiting during
the phrase “like a kid in a candy store” comes to mind. Here, pudding is prime meal times. Tokyo Midtown
the main course, and patrons of all ages can revel in the ability to ignore East 1F, 9-7-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku.
mom’s admonitions and fill up on dessert first. Tel: (+81) 3-5413-3650
B1F Shinjuku FF Bldg. 3-26-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
Tel: (+81) 3-5925-8876
Izakaya

I
zakaya are the Japanese equivalent of local pubs. Originating from sake stores that allowed customers to stay and
drink on the premises, they’ve grown to be cultural cornerstones where people of all stripes congregate to eat, drink
and enjoy each other’s company. From cheap, family-friendly chains to uber-modern spots featuring the latest in
high-end design, Tokyo’s best izakaya cater to all tastes, and are considered more representative of “real” Japanese
food for those in search of an authentic taste of Tokyo. Adventurous visitors might even want to slip down an izakaya
yokocho (izakaya alley), filled with classic old shops such as Shinjuku’s Golden Gai area. You usually need only one word
of Japanese: a strident “Sumimasen!” will have the staff zipping over to take your order or bring your bill. With their lively
atmospheres and heavy focus on drinking, the city’s izakaya offer a completely unique experience.

Shinjuku Awaodori Genka Bar Umanami-ya

Recommended by
Join in on fun, festival shenanigans at
the matsuri-themed Shinjuku Awaodori
restaurant near bustling Shinjuku station.
With its paper lanterns, tatami floors and
dark wood-framed interior, it’s the permanent
home of awaodori—the cheerful and high-
spirited folk dance traditionally performed
each August. With standard izakaya fare
including sukiyaki, sushi rolls and yakitori (all
presented with an easy-to-read menu and
large pictures) plus two dance performances
daily—it’s festival season every night!
5F Seno Building, 3-18-4, Shinjuku,
Shinjuku-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-3226-2855
Recommended by
Located near Gotanda station, Genka
Bar is an easygoing establishment that
operates differently from most watering
holes. Patrons pay a ¥1,600 entry fee,
after which they can enjoy all menu
items at a significantly reduced price—
and without a time limit. The word genka
in Japanese means “wholesale” price,
and this venue affords customers a wide
variety of top-shelf liquor brands, modern
cocktails and even food, without straining
their wallets.
Nozu Bldg. 2F&3F, 2-5-8 Nishi Gotanda,
Shinagawa-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-6417-9909
Recommended by
In the mood for a culinary adventure
or feeling so hungry you could—quite
literally—eat a horse? Then Umanami-
ya in Shimbashi is an excellent choice.
It’s been serving patrons horsemeat for
half a decade now, and the practice is
catching on. Umanami loosely translates
to “the power and stamina of a horse,”
and the restaurant uses high-quality meat
brought from the northern city of Aomori
and focuses on energizing dishes.
2-9-17 Shimbashi, Minato-ku.
Tel: (+81) 3-3508-5131
Fine Dining

I
n Japan, there’s a profound appreciation for the
finer things in life—especially when it comes to
dining. Some restaurants in Tokyo (as well as shops
that sell items like kimonos, fans and knives) have
provided the same high-quality food and service for
over 100 years. Known as shinise (old shop), these
traditional spots provide dishes that have been served
to patrons for over three generations. Dining at these
places, one can literally savor a piece of history.
Tokyo’s fine dining scene isn’t just limited to old-
fashioned recipes served at prestigious addresses.
Across a modern metropolis that’s constantly
reinventing itself, newer international eateries with
innovative techniques are dishing up some of the
finest cuisine in the world. Whatever your gastronomic
desire, the city’s great chefs await. Faro
Recommended by
For a taste of luxury in a relaxed atmosphere, look no further than
Faro, an Italian restaurant located in the heart of Ginza—Tokyo’s
most famous shopping district. Though there’s a dress code at
this entirely non-smoking, one-star Michelin restaurant, children
from the age of 10 are welcome. Staff members are used to
dealing with English-speaking, international customers and will
always look out for your needs. 10F Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Bldg.
8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-3572-3911
Quintessence
Recommended by
For a real three-star Michelin dining adventure, look no further than
French restaurant Quintessence. This truly original eatery boasts
a menu that changes daily according to seasonal ingredients and
the chef’s own imagination. Using French techniques but with
a Japanese mindset and ingredients, its carte blanche menus
tantalize guests with a uniquely tailored, sensory experience
enhanced with an element of surprise. Reservations are required at
least one day in advance. 1F Garden City Shinagawa Gotenyama,
6-7-29 Kita Shinagawa. Tel: (+81) 3-6277-0485
Tokyo Shiba Tofuya Ukai
Recommended by
For a uniquely Japanese experience, step into the Edo style of
Tokyo Shiba Tofu-ya Ukai, a restaurant imbued with the traditional
aesthetics, service and fare of old Japan. Located at the foot of
Tokyo Tower and just a stone’s throw from popular tourist spot
Zojoji Temple, its exclusively tofu-centered menus are available
in English, Chinese and Korean. Be sure to make a reservation to
guarantee yourself a spot for this one-of-a-kind dining experience.
4-4-13 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku. Tel: (+81) 3-3436-1028
Keyakizaka
Recommended by
Keyakizaka is a teppanyaki (iron grill) restaurant, located in
Roppongi Hills on the fourth floor of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo,
where chefs prepare fresh meat, seafood and vegetables on a
large grill in front of your seat. Keyakizaka stocks several types
of high-end Japanese wagyu beef, but is recently offering a
taste of hard to find Olive Beef from Kagawa Prefecture, which
is produced from pressed-olive fed, Japanese black cattle. 4F
Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku.
Tel: (+81) 3-4333-8782
Vietnamese Cyclo
Recommended by
Hidden away in the underground of Roppongi lies Cyclo—a
sophisticated and exotic haven for locals and tourists alike.
Colorful and sumptuous dishes tantalize eyes and stomach for
an authentic Vietnamese cuisine experience in Tokyo. Standard
dishes like pho and fresh spring rolls are coupled with selections
often unheard of outside Vietnam, making the cuisine a breath of
fresh air for veterans and newbies alike.
B1F Roppongi Green Bldg, 6-1-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku.
Tel: (+81) 3-3478-4964
Depachika
I
n Japanese department stores, the basement is referred to as “depachika,” a combination of the words depato (department
store) and chika (basement). Unlike Western countries, where the food court is usually located on the top floor of these retail
establishments, Japanese shoppers head downstairs to eat.
The selection of food in depachika is separated into small, specialized stalls and ranges from everyday delicatessen-style items to
desserts and treats like wagashi that are so beautifully designed you’ll enjoy just gazing at them. You can even find food so stylish it's
reserved for gift-giving. Fresh vegetables, meat and fish are sold in the perishable goods section, and bento (pre-prepared meals) of
all kinds and sizes are also available—so you can take food back to your hotel or a nearby park to enjoy. Or why not explore food from
around the world in the imported goods section?

Isetan Hikarie
Recommended by Recommended by

Among Tokyo’s premier Hikarie is a massive

department stores, department store
Isetan Shinjuku stands located in Shibuya.
out for its discerning It can be accessed
taste in products directly from
ranging from trend- various train lines
setting high fashion that run through
to household goods. Shibuya station via
Japanese artisans showcase their sophisticated craftsmanship a network of clearly marked and easily navigable underground
by adding their fine-spun interpretation to traditional objects. The passageways. The second and third basement floors are
basement levels are a sprawling section comprising food and dedicated to the gastronomical arts. You can find the satellite
drink from all over the world. Plus, Isetan Shinjuku has a multitude shops of world famous Japanese confectioners amongst a
of foreign language-speaking staff ensuring an enjoyable multitude of other stores offering delicacies from across the
shopping experience for all. 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. globe. 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku.
Tel: (+81) 3-3352-1111 Tel: (+81) 3-3461-1090

METROPOLIS MAGAZINE TAKAMI IWAYA, ALL ABOUT

Metropolis boasts the largest
distribution of any English-
language magazine in Japan. Its
print and online services track hot
bars and restaurants in Tokyo,
as well as entertainment and
lifestyle all over Japan. The iconic
cover is one of the first sights to
greet every new arrival at Narita
International Airport.
GOURMET FOOD EXPERT
Takami Iwaya is a freelance writer and
gourmet food expert for one of Japan’s largest
internet media company’s All About, Inc.
(http://allabout.co.jp) Her food expertise
covers a wide span of genres, from Japanese cuisine
(washoku) to Italian, French and Ethnic. Almost every day, she
goes out for location hunting, participates in tasting events,
conducts interviews and joins private dinners such that eating
a full course three times in one day is not uncommon for her.

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