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SERVICE
SERVICE
TMS900E CRANE
(SINGLE ECM ENGINE)
This manual has been compiled to assist you in properly operating and maintaining your Grove Crane.
The Grove Crane has been designed for maximum performance with minimum maintenance. With proper care, years of
trouble-free service can be expected.
Constant improvement and engineering progress makes it necessary that we reserve the right to make specification and
equipment changes without notice.
Grove remains committed to providing reliable products that enable users and operators to safely lift and position loads.
Grove has been an industry leader in the incorporation of operational aids into the design of its cranes. Federal law
requires that cranes be properly maintained and kept in good working condition. The manuals that Grove provides that
are specific for each crane and the manufacturer’s manuals for the operational aids shall be followed. If an operational
aid should fail to work properly, the crane user or owner must assure that repair or recalibration is accomplished as soon
as is reasonably possible. If immediate repair or recalibration of an operational aid is not possible and there are excep-
tional circumstances which justify continued short-term use of the crane when operational aids are inoperative or mal-
functioning, the following requirements shall apply for continued use or shutdown of the crane:
1. Steps shall be taken to schedule repairs and recalibration immediately. The operational aids shall be put back into
service as soon as replacement parts, if required, are available and the repairs and recalibration can be carried out.
Every reasonable effort must be made to expedite repairs and recalibration.
3. When aERRPDQJOH or UDGLXVLQGLFDWRU is inoperative or malfunctioning, the radius or boom angle shall be deter-
mined by measurement.
4. When an DQWLEORFN GHYLFH WZREORFNLQJ GDPDJH SUHYHQWLRQ or WZREORFN ZDUQLQJ GHYLFH is inoperative or
malfunctioning, the designated person responsible for supervising the lifting operations shall establish procedures,
such as assigning an additional signal person to furnish equivalent protection. This does not apply when lifting per-
sonnel in load-line supported personnel platforms. Personnel shall not be lifted when anti-two block devices are not
functioning properly.
5. When a ERRPOHQJWKLQGLFDWRU is inoperative or malfunctioning, the designated person responsible for supervising
the lifting operations shall establish the boom lengths at which the lift will be made by actual measurements or
marking on the boom.
6. When a OHYHOLQGLFDWRU is inoperative or malfunctioning, other means shall be used to level the crane.
ii
NOTICE TO OWNER/USER
Should this crane become involved in an accident, please
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recognize beneficial ways to improve it. Send in SMCARs to make suggestions for improvements to this service
manual in the areas of safety, operation correctness, and technical content. All SMCARs will be reviewed by the
responsible department at Grove Worldwide. Approved SMCARs will be immediately distributed in a service bulle-
tin and then incorporated into the next scheduled change to the service manual. Answers to submitted SMCARs—
whether they have been approved or disapproved—will be sent directly to the person submitting the SMCAR.
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manual in the areas of safety, operation correctness, and technical content. All SMCARs will be reviewed by the
responsible department at Grove Worldwide. Approved SMCARs will be immediately distributed in a service bulle-
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recognize beneficial ways to improve it. Send in SMCARs to make suggestions for improvements to this service
manual in the areas of safety, operation correctness, and technical content. All SMCARs will be reviewed by the
responsible department at Grove Worldwide. Approved SMCARs will be immediately distributed in a service bulle-
tin and then incorporated into the next scheduled change to the service manual. Answers to submitted SMCARs—
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recognize beneficial ways to improve it. Send in SMCARs to make suggestions for improvements to this service
manual in the areas of safety, operation correctness, and technical content. All SMCARs will be reviewed by the
responsible department at Grove Worldwide. Approved SMCARs will be immediately distributed in a service bulle-
tin and then incorporated into the next scheduled change to the service manual. Answers to submitted SMCARs—
whether they have been approved or disapproved—will be sent directly to the person submitting the SMCAR.
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recognize beneficial ways to improve it. Send in SMCARs to make suggestions for improvements to this service
manual in the areas of safety, operation correctness, and technical content. All SMCARs will be reviewed by the
responsible department at Grove Worldwide. Approved SMCARs will be immediately distributed in a service bulle-
tin and then incorporated into the next scheduled change to the service manual. Answers to submitted SMCARs—
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The carrier cab contains all controls and indicators necessary for traveling and
parking functions.
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The gauge cluster (5) is located in the center of the front console assembly and
contains a voltmeter, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge, and a fuel
quantity gauge.
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The voltmeter (VOLTS) is located on the lower right of the gauge cluster. With
the ignition switch in the RUN (1) position and before starting the engine, the
voltmeter indicates the condition of the batteries. With the engine running, the
voltmeter indicates output voltage of the alternator. The voltmeter scale is from
16 to 32 volts.
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The engine oil pressure (OIL) gauge is located on the upper right of the gauge
cluster. The gauge indicates the engine oil pressure on a dual scale calibrated
from zero (0) to 80 psi. It receives a signal from an oil pressure sending unit on
the engine.
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The engine coolant temperature (TEMP) gauge is located on the lower left of the
gauge cluster. The gauge indicates the engine coolant temperature on a scale
calibrated from 100 to 240×F. The gauge receives a signal from a temperature
sending unit in the engine cooling system.
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The fuel quantity (FUEL) gauge is located on the upper left of the gauge cluster.
The gauge indicates the quantity of fuel in the tank and has a scale calibrated
from empty (E) to full (F). The fuel quantity gauge receives a signal from a send-
ing unit in the fuel tank.
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The ENGINE diagnostics STOP indicator (23) is located at the top middle left of
the front console. It illuminates red when energized by a signal from the engine
ECM that signifies a serious engine problem that requires the vehicle and the
engine to be stopped as soon as safely possible. In addition, a warning buzzer
will also sound.
In addition to alerting the operator of system faults, the STOP light, in conjunc-
tion with the WARNING light, is used in the diagnostic operation of the engine
control system. The diagnostic mode begins when the IGNITION and TEST
MODE switch is on and the engine is not running. The amber light flashes at the
beginning of a fault code sequence, the red light flashes the three-digit or four-
digit code for the active fault and the amber light flashes again to separate the
previous red light sequence from the next one. Each code will be flashed twice
before moving to the next code. When all codes have been flashed, the
sequence will begin again. If no codes are present, both the Stop and Warning
Lights will remain on.
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The ENGINE diagnostics WARNING indicator (24) is located at the top middle
left of the front console. It illuminates amber when energized by a signal from the
engine ECM that gives the operator a signal that there is an engine problem
which must be corrected.
In addition to alerting the operator of system faults, the WARNING light, in con-
junction with the STOP light, is used in the diagnostic operation of the engine
control system. The diagnostic mode begins when the IGNITION and TEST
MODE switch is on and the engine is not running. The amber light flashes at the
beginning of a fault code sequence, the red light flashes the three-digit or four-
digit code for the active fault and the amber light flashes again to separate the
previous red light sequence from the next one. Each code will be flashed twice
before moving to the next code. When all codes have been flashed, the
sequence will begin again. If no codes are present, both the Warning and Stop
Lights will remain on.
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The tachometer (2) is located on the left side of the front console. The tachome-
ter is calibrated in RPM x 100 with a range of zero (0) to 35 and receives a signal
from the sender unit on the engine.
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The ENGINE BRAKE switches are located on the left side of the front console.
The two position (ON/OFF) switch (22) energizes the engine brake. When the
switch is in the ON position, the amber LED in the switch will be illuminated. The
two position (HIGH/LOW) switch (20) controls the amount of engine braking.
When the switch is in the HIGH position, the amber LED in the switch will be illu-
minated.
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The IGNITION SWITCH (14) is located on the right side of the front console. The
switch is key operated with four positions: accessory (ACC) (3), OFF (0), RUN
(1), and START (2). With ignition switches in both cabs in the (0) position, all
electrical power is off except for the headlights, marker lights, gauge lights, turn
and stop light, backup lights and alarm, carrier and superstructure cab dome
lights. The (3) position energizes all electrical components except the engine
ECM. The (1) position is the same as (3) except the engine ECM is energized.
The (2) position energizes the starter relay which in turn energizes the cranking
motor solenoid and cranks the engine for starting. The switch will return to (1)
when the switch is released after the engine is started. Turn the switch to (0) to
shut down the engine.
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The THROTTLE pedal (38) is the right most pedal on the cab floor. It is used to
control engine RPM. The foot pedal is electronically connected to the engine
and modulates engine speed proportionately to the foot pressure applied. The
pedal is angled for increased operator comfort.
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Two ENGINE DIAGNOSTICS switches are located on the right side panel.
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The TEST MODE switch (36) is used when servicing the engines electronic con-
trol system. It is a two position ON/OFF rocker switch used to activate the testing
mode.
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The IDLE switch (35) is used when servicing the engines electronic control sys-
tem. It is a two position (+/-) momentary rocker switch that provides idle-control
inputs or diagnostic mode inputs, depending upon operating conditions at the
time it is activated. It will also change engine idle speed from 600 to 800 rpm.
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The dual air pressure gauge (1) is located on the left side of the front console.
The gauge is a direct reading pressure gauge with two indicating pointers, red
for the primary system and green for the secondary system. The gauge has a
dual scale calibrated from 100 to 1000 kPa and 0 to 150 psi. The gauge is con-
nected to each air system separately through tubing.
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The low air pressure (AIR PRESSURE LOW) indicator (27) is located on the
upper center of the front console above the steering wheel. The indicator is a red
light that illuminates when the pressure in either or both air systems is below 75
psi (517 kPa). The indicator is controlled by two pressure switches electrically
connected in parallel. To determine which system pressure is low, observe the
dual air pressure gauge. In addition to illuminating the LOW AIR indicator, the
pressure switches also energize a warning buzzer.
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The speedometer (4) is located on the upper left side of the front console above
the steering wheel. The speedometer indicates road speed in mph (miles per
hour).
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There is an odometer (16) located at the bottom of the speedometer and shows
total distance traveled.
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1. Dual Air Pressure Gauge 31. Tire Inflator On Indicator
2. Tachometer 32. Inter-Axle Differential Locked Indi-
3. Left Turn Signal Indicator cator
4. Speedometer 33. Suspension Deflated Indicator
5. Gauge Cluster 34. Suspension Control
6. Right Turn Signal Indicator 35. Engine Diagnostics
7. Heater Air Temperature Control Idle Switch
8. Heater Fan Switch 36. Engine Diagnostics
9. Steering Column Tilt/Telescope Lever Test Mode Switch
10. Defrost Fan Switch 37. Brake Pedal
11. Trailing Boom Trailer Emergency Brake 38. Throttle Pedal
Control (Optional) 39. Transmission Range Control Button
12. Parking Brake Control 40. Transmission Shift Lever
13. Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch 41. Ash Tray
14. Ignition Switch 42. Beacon Light (Optional)
15. Inter-Axle Differential Lock Control 43. Fire Extinguisher
16. Odometer 44. Cab Dome Light
17. Cross-Axle Differential Lock Control 45. Steering Wheel
(Optional) 46. Horn Button
18. Tire Inflator Control Switch 47. Headlight Dimmer/Turn Signal
19. Beacon Light Switch (Optional) Lever
20. Engine Brake High-Low Switch 48. Seat
21. Headlights Switch 49. Sun Visor
22. Engine Brake On/Off Switch 50. Cab Circulating Fan
23. Engine Diagnostics Stop Indicator 51. Windshield Defroster Air Outlet
24. Engine Diagnostics Warning Indicator 52. Clutch Pedal
25. High Coolant Temperature (Not Req’d) 53. Cab Marker Lights
26. Cross-Axle Differential Locked Indicator 54. Circuit Breaker and Relay Panel
(Optional) 55. Hazard Light Switch
27. Low Air Pressure Indicator
28. High Beam Indicator
29. Park Brake On Indicator
30. Swing Brake On Indicator (Optional)
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The parking brake control (12) is located on the right side of the front console.
The control is a push-pull type air valve used to apply and release the parking
brakes on all four rear wheels.
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The PARK BRAKE ON indicator (29) is located at the top of the front console on
the right side. The indicator is a red light that illuminates when the crane parking
brakes are applied. It is energized by a pressure switch on the parking brake
valve. The pressure switch also controls the outrigger enable relay that permits
operation of the outriggers.
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The CROSS-AXLE DIFFERENTIAL lock control (17) is located on the lower left
side of the front console and is used to lock the right and left wheels in a tandem
set. The cross-axle differential lock increases traction on slippery roads. It is a
two position LOCK/UNLOCK lever actuated air valve.
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The INTER-AXLE DIFFERENTIAL lock control (15) is located on the lower right
side of the front console. In the LOCK position, both rear axles are locked
together and turning at the same speed. In the UNLOCKED position, the axles
operate independently of the each other. The control is a lever actuated air
valve.
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The brake pedal (37) is located on the cab floor, to the left of the foot throttle and
is used to apply the service brakes.
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The clutch pedal (52) is located on the left side of the cab floor. It is used to
engage or disengage the clutch.
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The transmission shift lever (40) is located on the right side of the cab. It is used
to shift the transmission gears.
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The transmission range control button (39) is located on the shift lever knob. It
provides for high and low range shifting.
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The SUSPENSION control (34) is a lever operated air valve located on the right
side console. When positioned to INFLATE, the suspension air bags are inflated.
When positioned to DEFLATE, the suspension air bags are deflated.
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The SUSPENSION DEFLATED indicator (33) is located on the right side con-
sole above the suspension control lever. The amber indicator illuminates when
the air is removed from the suspension air bags. It is controlled by four pressure
switches connected in series.
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The SWING BRAKE ON indicator (30) is located at the top of the front console.
The red indicator illuminates to warn the operator that the swing brake release
pressure is not enough to hold the swing brake disengaged during trailing boom
operation. In addition to illuminating the SWING BRAKE ON indicator, the pres-
sure switch also energizes a warning buzzer.
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The headlight HIGH BEAM indicator (28) is located at the top of the center front
console. The indicator is a blue light that illuminates when the headlights are on
high beam.
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The heater air temperature (HEAT) control (7) is located on the right side of the
front console. The control is a push-pull cable that opens and closes the valve in
the hot water supply line to the heater. Pull to open the valve for heat.
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The HEATER control switch (8) is located on the right side of the front console.
This rotary switch controls the speed of the heater fan (LOW, MED, and HI)
which in turn regulates the volume of heated air output. The middle position is
OFF. The next two positions at 90° increments are LOW and medium (MED).
The far right position is high (HI).
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The DEFROST control switch (10) is located on the right side of the front con-
sole. The rocker switch controls the defroster fan to regulate the flow of air to the
windshield for defrosting. When the switch is in the ON position, the amber LED
in the switch will be illuminated.
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The HEADLIGHTS switch (21) is located on the left side of the front console.
The switch is a push-pull type switch with a rheostat control. Pull the switch to
the first detent to illuminate the marker and gauge lights. Pull the switch to the
second detent to illuminate the headlights, the marker lights and the gauge
lights. Rotating the switch knob controls the brightness of the gauge lights.
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The beacon light switch (BEACON) (19) is a two position, ON-OFF rocker switch
located on the left side of the front console that controls the beacon light (42) on
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the top of the carrier cab. When the switch is in the ON position, the amber LED
in the switch will be illuminated.
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The headlight dimmer switch (47) is incorporated in the turn signal switch. It is
located on the left side of the steering column. The switch is activated by pulling
or pushing the turnsignal lever(s) toward you or away from you.
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The turn signal lever (47) is located on the steering column. Positioning the lever
down causes the indicator light on the column and the left front and left rear sig-
nals to flash. Positioning the lever up causes the indicator light on the column
and the right front and right rear signals to flash.
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The hazard light switch (55) is located on the steering column. Pushing forward
on the switch (in the direction of the arrow) causes all the turn signals and the
indicator light on the column to flash.
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The left turn signal indicator (3) is located on the top left side of the front console.
It is a green indicator light that flashes when the turn signal lever is pulled down.
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The right turn signal indicator (6) is located on the top right side of the front con-
sole. It is a green indicator light that flashes when the turn signal lever is pushed
up.
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The steering column tilt/telescope lever (9) is located on the steering column
behind the turn signal lever. Pulling back on the lever allows the steering column
to be tilted, and pushing forward on the lever allows the steering column to be
telescoped in and out.
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The horn button (46) is located in the center of the steering wheel (45). Depress-
ing the horn button energizes the circuit sounding the horn.
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The fire extinguisher (43) is mounted on the left inside rear of the cab.
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The cab circulating fan (50) is mounted on the left front of the cab and is con-
trolled by a two speed rocker switch on the base of the fan.
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The tire inflation (TIRE INFLATOR) switch (18) is located on the left side of the
front console. It is a guarded two position toggle air valve that activates the tire
inflation system.
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The TIRE INFLATOR ON indicator (31) is located at the top of the front console
panel. It is an amber light that is illuminated when the pressure switch in the tire
inflation system is activated. In addition to illuminating the TIRE INFLATOR ON
indicator, the pressure switch also energizes a warning buzzer.
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The cab dome light (44) is located in the center of the cab roof directly over the
seat. It is controlled by a switch on the light and by a door switch that powers the
light when the cab door is opened.
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A set of air horns are mounted on top of the cab and are controlled by a valve
manually actuated by a cable inside the cab.
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The circuit breaker and relay panel (54) is located on the right rear side of the
cab under a removable cover. It contains 24 circuit breakers and various relays
that protect and control the various electrical components of the carrier.
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There are two OUTRIGGER CONTROL panels located on each side of the
crane carrier. Each outrigger control panel contains the control switches for
extending and retracting the outrigger beams and for raising and lowering the
outrigger stabilizer (jack) cylinders on that side of the crane. Each control panel
also contains a control switch for raising and lowering the center front stabilizer.
The following paragraphs explain these controls.
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The CENTER FRONT STABILIZER switch (3) is located toward the outside
edge of the outrigger control panel and has two placarded positions; ACTIVATE
and OFF. It must be used in conjunction with the outrigger extension/retraction
switch to control the operation of the center front stabilizer. The center front sta-
bilizer will retract automatically when any of the other four stabilizers are
retracted, therefore it must be reset if lifting is to be continued.
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The daytime running lights are powered by the carrier ignition switch (14) acces-
sory circuit. When the PARK BRAKE control (29) is rolled to apply the park
brake, the daytime running lights lose power and turn off. This feature allows the
low beam of the headlights to automatically be on any time the crane is roading.
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The carrier engine is a Cummins ISM02.
This Service Manual does not include detailed information on these individual engines. A sepa-
rate manual, as prepared in detail by the engine manufacturer, is supplied with this Service
Manual. However, a short description and maintenance of certain components of the fuel sys-
tem, air intake system, and water cooling system are provided in this section.
Engine speed is controlled from the carrier cab by a foot throttle pedal connected electronically
to the engine ECM. Speed is electronically controlled in the same manner from the superstruc-
ture cab by either a foot throttle pedal or hand throttle.
The engine and its components are enclosed within a hood assembly. The hood has openings in
the front and rear to allow for adequate air flow over the engine. A door on the top left and right
side of the hood may be opened to provide easier access to the engine.
The air intake filter in located on the right side of the engine on the fender. The muffler is
located on the left side behind the cab. It is mounted to the boom rest support.
To aid in starting the engine in cold weather, an automatic cold weather starting aid injection
system is provided. When engine temperature is below 13°C (55°F) the automatic cold start
solenoid is activated when the engine is started, providing an injection of starting fluid to the
engine. The system consists of an engine temperature switch, solenoid valve, starting aid con-
tainer, and the necessary connecting tubing. The solenoid and container are mounted inside the
hood on the left side. An immersion type engine block heater is also provided.
/
5(029$/
1. Fully extend and set the outriggers and position the boom over the side to provide working
clearance.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Open the left and right hood access doors.
4. Disconnect the air filter tubing at the engine and air cleaner. Remove and lay aside.
5. Tag and disconnect the engine electrical harness connector from the carrier harness con-
nector, the starting aid valve connector, and the battery cables.
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6. Remove the bolts, washers, lockwashers, and nuts securing the start relay to the hood. Lay
the relay with the harness on the engine.
7. Drain the engine lubricating systems.
8. Drain the transmission lubricating systems.
10. Disconnect the starting aid tubing from the engine intake manifold. Cap or plug the open-
ings.
11. Tag and disconnect the transmission oil lines to the filter and oil cooler.
12. Remove the engine hood assembly, counterweight stowage frame work, and decking over
transmission.
13. Disconnect the muffler exhaust tubing at the engine and remove the tubing from the
engine. Remove the tubing clamp bracket from the rear of the engine. Locate the rear
engine lifting bracket bolted to the frame and install it where the tubing clamp bracket was
removed.
14. Disconnect and remove the drive line from the transmission. Refer to DRIVE TRAIN sec-
tion.
15. Tag and disconnect all lines to the radiator and air cooler. Remove the radiator assembly
and fan. Cap or plug all openings.
17. Tag and disconnect the fuel lines to the engine. Cap or plug all openings.
18. Tag and disconnect all air lines to the engine components and transmission. Cap or plug all
openings. Move the tubing out of the way so it is not damaged during the removal of the
engine and transmission assembly.
19. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines to both the engine and main pumps. Cap or plug all
lines and openings.
20. Loosen 4 hold down bolts and remove main pump installation from frame brackets.
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21. Remove driveline from the main pump adapter and lay on transmission.
22. Tag and disconnect all linkages and cables to the engine, engine components, and transmis-
sion.
23. Tag and disconnect any other hoses necessary for removal of the engine.
24. Attach an adequate lifting device to the engine and transmission sufficient to lift and sup-
port both the engine and transmission.
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25. With the lifting device supporting the weight of the engine and transmission, remove the
bolts, washers, lockwashers, nuts and shock mounts from the front engine mounting sup-
port and the transmission mounting brackets.
26. Carefully lift the engine assembly from the crane and move it to a clean work area.
27. If a new engine is to be installed, remove the transmission, and all engine installed compo-
nents, fittings, etc. from the old engine and install them on the new engine in the same
locations. Refer to DRIVE TRAIN in Section 12 for transmission removal and installation.
Ensure that the same grade hardware, torque values, and Loctite as were installed by the factory
are used.
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1. With all components and fittings installed on the engine, lift the engine assembly into the
crane.
2. With the engine assembly in position, install the bolts, washers, lockwashers, nuts, and
shock mounts on the front engine mounting support and on the transmission mounting
brackets. Torque the bolts 337 to 366 Nm (249 to 270 pounds-foot).
4. Connect all linkages and cables to the engine, engine components, and transmission as
tagged during removal.
5. Install the main pump to the frame brackets using four hold down bolts.
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6. Reconnect driveline to pump adapter with previous hardware. Retorque per factory specs.
7. Connect all hydraulic lines to both the engine and main pumps as tagged during removal.
8. Connect all air lines to the engine components and transmission as tagged during removal.
9. Connect the fuel lines to the engine as tagged during removal.
10. Connect the cab heater hoses as tagged during removal.
11. Install the radiator assembly and fan. Connect all lines to the radiator and air cooler as
tagged during removal.
12. Connect the drive line to the transmission. Refer to DRIVE TRAIN in Section 12.
13. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket from the engine and bolt it on the frame. Install the
exhaust tubing clamp mounting bracket where the lifting bracket was removed. Install the
exhaust tubing and connect it to the engine.
14. Connect the filter and oil cooler oil lines to the transmission as tagged during removal.
15. Connect the starting aid tubing to the intake manifold.
16. Install the engine hood assembly, counterweight stowage frame work, and the removed
decking.
17. Position the start relay on the inside of the hood and secure with the bolts, washers, lock-
washers, and nuts.
18. Connect the battery cables, starting aid valve connector, and engine electrical harness con-
nector as marked during removal.
19. Connect the air cleaner tubing at the engine and air cleaner.
20. Connect any other hoses that were disconnected during removal of the engine.
21. Service the transmission, engine lubricating system, hydraulic reservoir, and the engine
cooling system.
22. Prime the fuel system and start the engine. Check all hoses for leaks. Shut down the engine
and check all fluid levels.
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The proper operation of engine belt-driven components such as the alternator, fan clutch, and
water pump depend on the proper condition and tension of the engine drive belts.
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The engine drive belt should be inspected visually on a daily basis. The drive belt should be
inspected for cracks, frayed areas, and glazed or shiny surfaces. A drive belt that is glazed or
shiny indicate belt slippage.
Engine drive belt damage can be caused by various factors such as incorrect tension, incorrect
belt size, misaligned engine pulleys, incorrectly installed belts, or by oil, grease, or hydraulic
fluid on the belt.
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s manual for any special tools or belt tension specifications.
2.
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The engine control system is an electronically controlled fuel injection system that optimizes
fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions. It accomplishes this by controlling the torque and
horsepower curve, air fuel control function, engine high speed, low idle and road speed. The
system monitors critical engine temperatures and pressures, and will log diagnostic faults when
an abnormal operating condition occurs. If an out of range condition exists, and engine derate
action is to be initiated, the operator will be alerted by an in-cab warning light. The warning
light will blink or flash when out-of-range conditions continue to get worse.
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Four key switch phases govern the operation of the engine control system:
1. Ignition switch in the on position, IDLE/DIAGNOSTIC switch off, engine not cranking or
running.
2. Ignition switch in the on position, IDLE/DIAGNOSTIC switch on, engine not cranking or
running.
With the ignition switch on, the diagnostic test switch off and the engine not cranking or run-
ning, the electronic control module (ECM) performs diagnostic and status operations. It reads
the logic inputs from the brake, clutch, and cab switches and analog inputs from sensors such as
the engine coolant temperature sensor and the manifold boost pressure sensor. During this phase
the data link is active and can be accessed by the applicable service tools. The ECM opens the
fuel shutoff valve so the engine is ready to be started.
Additionally if the key switch is turned on but the diagnostic switch remains off, the indicator
lights illuminate for approximately two seconds to verify they are working and then go out. This
is part of the normal operation of the power-up sequence. However, if an active fault is present,
one of the lights remains illuminated, determined by the type of fault being sensed.
When the diagnostic test switch is turned on, the red and amber indicator lights illuminate and
remain illuminated if there is no active fault. If there is an active fault, the red lamp flashes in a
sequence of pulses to indicate that specific fault code.
The electronic subsystem and the starter motor are independent of each other. During the crank-
ing phase, with the ignition switch in the start position, the ECM commands all of the fuel
needed to start the engine. There is no need to use the throttle pedal while cranking the engine.
While the engine is cranking the ECM is performing additional diagnostic and status operations.
An active fault causes one of the two indicator lamps to illuminate and remain lit. Which lamp
is illuminated depends on the severity of the fault.
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The ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC IDLE switch is located at the right side panel. The switch is to be
used when servicing the engine’s electronic control system. It is a two position momentary
switch that provides idle-control inputs or diagnostic-mode inputs, depending upon operating
conditions at the time it is activated.
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The ENGINE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE switch is located at the right side panel. The switch
is to be used when servicing the engine’s electronic control system. It is a two position (ON-
OFF) switch used to activate the testing mode.
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The ENGINE STOP light is located at the top of the front console. It is a red indicator light that
illuminates to signify a serious engine problem that requires the vehicle and the engine to be
stopped as soon as safely possible.
In addition to alerting the operator of system faults, the ENGINE STOP light, in conjunction
with the ENGINE WARNING light, is used in the diagnostic operation of the engine control
system. The diagnostic mode begins when the ignition and TEST MODE switches are on and
the engine is not running. The amber light flashes at the beginning of a fault code sequence, the
red light flashes the three-digit code for the active fault and the amber light flashes again to sep-
arate the previous red light sequence from the next one.
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The ENGINE WARNING light is located at the top of the front console. It is an amber indicator
light that is a part of the engine’s electronic control system and when illuminated, gives the
operator a signal that there is a engine problem which must be corrected.
In addition to alerting the operator of system faults, the ENGINE WARNING light, in conjunc-
tion with the ENGINE STOP light, is used in the diagnostic operation of the engine control sys-
tem. The diagnostic mode begins when the ignition and TEST MODE switches are on and the
engine is not running. The amber light flashes at the beginning of a fault code sequence, the red
light flashes the three-digit code for the active fault and the amber light flashes again to separate
the previous red light sequence from the next one.
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The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, fuel filter-water separator, injection fuel pump, and the
fuel injectors. All components except the fuel tank and fuel filter-water separator are installed
on the engine or supplied with the engine for remote mounting.
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The fuel tank is an aluminum round tank located on the left side of the crane. The tank has a
draw capacity of 97 gal (367 liters). Two connections on the top of the tank provide for fuel sup-
ply to the engine and return of surplus fuel from the engine. The tank is equipped with a spin-
type filler cap and fuel quantity sender units which provide signals to quantity indicators on the
instrument panels in both cabs.
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The fuel oil is finely atomized as it is injected into the cylinder and ignited by the heat of com-
pression. It is metered also, before injection, to meet the load requirements imposed upon the
engine.
Surplus fuel, returning from the injectors, is bypassed back to the fuel tank. The continuous
flow of fuel through the injectors helps to cool the injectors and to purge air from the system.
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The fuel filter-water separator removes impurities from the fuel and also removes water from
the fuel before it reaches the engine. It is mounted under the decking forward of the fuel tank.
The fuel mixture passes through the outer wrap of the first stage of the filter paper, where large
droplets of water, removed from the fuel, are formed. The water droplets drain into a void
between the two paper elements and to a reservoir in the bottom of the housing, where it can be
drained through a petcock.
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The fuel tank should be kept filled, especially overnight, to reduce condensation to a minimum.
Refer to the applicable engine manual for the recommended schedule for draining any water or
sediment from the tank.
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1. Place a suitable container under the fuel tank and drain all fuel from the tank.
2. Tag and disconnect the two lines from the tank.
3. Disconnect the electrical lead from the fuel quantity sender unit.
4. Remove the hardware securing the tank in place and using a suitable lifting device, remove
the fuel tank.
5. If a new tank is to be installed, remove the two fittings, the fuel quantity sender, and steps
from the tank and install them on the new tank.
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1. Position the tank and install the hardware securing the tank in place.
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The sump of the fuel filter-water separator should be drained daily, 30 minutes after the engine
is shut down, to remove any water and sediment. Adhere to the following procedure.
1. Place a suitable container under the filter and open the drain plug.
2. Drain until fuel appears.
3. Close the drain plug.
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The engine air intake system consists of an air cleaner and associated piping for channeling the
air from the atmosphere to the engine intake manifold.
The air cleaner is the dry-type with a replaceable element. It is located on the right front fender.
A service indicator, designed to indicate red when servicing is required, is installed at the air
cleaner outlet.
The optional automatic cold weather starting system consists of a temperature sensor, atomizer,
valve assembly, and starting fluid bottle. The quick start system is activated when the engine
temperature is 13 °C (55 °F) or below to facilitate engine starting. When activated, the system
actuates the valve assembly, passing starting fluid from the bottle through the atomizer into the
air intake manifold where it mixes with the intake air to facilitate engine combustion.
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Dust passing the air cleaner, even through small holes, can cause rapid engine wear. Ensure all
connections between the air cleaner and the engine are tight and sealed. If these connections are
all well sealed, and there is still evidence of dust leakage, check the following places for possi-
ble trouble.
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As a dry cleaner element becomes loaded with dust, the vacuum on the engine side of the air
cleaner (at the air cleaner outlet) increases.
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The vacuum is generally measured as restriction in inches of water. The engine manufacturer
places a recommended limit on the amount of restriction the engine will stand without loss in
performance before the element must be cleaned or replaced. Cummins allows a vacuum of 6.2
kPa (25 inches of water) maximum with a dirty air cleaner at maximum governed RPM.
A service indicator on the air cleaner housing will indicate when the filter needs to be cleaned or
replaced. Reset the indicator each time the air cleaner is serviced. If the indicator’s accuracy is
suspect, a water manometer is the most accurate and dependable method of measuring vacuum.
To use the manometer, hold it vertically and fill both legs approximately half full with water.
One of the upper ends is connected to the restriction tap on the outlet side of the air cleaner by
means of a flexible hose. The other end is left open to the atmosphere.
Maximum restriction in the air cleaner occurs at maximum air flow. On this turbocharged diesel
engine, the maximum air flow occurs only at maximum engine power.
With the manometer held vertically and the engine drawing maximum air, the difference in the
height of the water columns in the two legs, measured in inches or centimeters is the air cleaner
restriction. Restriction indicators are generally marked with the restriction at which the red sig-
nal flag locks up.
If the initial restriction on a new or clean filter reads above the maximum allowed for the
engine, check the following items.
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1. Loosen and remove the wing nut, open the air cleaner body, and withdraw the element as
follows:
a. RELEASE THE SEAL GENTLY. The filter element fits tightly over the outlet tube,
creating the critical seal on the inside diameter of the filter endcap. The filter should be
removed gently to reduce the amount of dust dislodged. There will be some initial
resistance, similar to breaking the seal on a jar. Gently move the end of the filter up and
down and side to side or twist to break the seal.
11-14
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b. AVOID DISLODGING DUST FROM THE FILTER. Gently pull the filter off the out-
let tube and out of the housing. Avoid knocking the filter against the housing.
2. Clean the element as outlined in ELEMENT CLEANING. Replace the element after six
cleanings or annually, whichever comes first.
3. Inspect all parts of the intake system and air cleaner. Be sure to clean the sealing surface of
the outlet tube and the inside of the outlet tube.
4. Install the cleaned or new element into the air cleaner body as follows:
a. INSPECT THE FILTER FOR DAMAGE. Always look for filter damage, even if a
new filter element is being installed. Pay special attention to the inside of the open end
(sealing area). Do not install a damaged filter.
b. INSERT THE FILTER PROPERLY. The seal area is on the inside of the open end of
the primary filter. A new filter has a dry lubricant to aid installation. The critical seal-
ing area will stretch slightly, adjust itself and distribute the sealing pressure evenly. To
complete a tight seal, apply pressure at the outer rim of the filter, not the flexible cen-
ter. No cover pressure is required to hold the seal.
5. Install the cover on the air cleaner body with the two arrows pointing up. Secure the cover
with the latches.
6. Check all connections and ducts for an air tight fit. Make sure that all clamps, bolts, and
connections are tight. Check for holes in piping. Leaks in the air intake system may send
dust directly to the engine.
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Washing in a water-detergent solution or blowing out with compressed air are two accepted
methods for cleaning the element of the air cleaners. If the element contains substantial amounts
of soot or oil fumes, washing in water works better than compressed air. If the contaminant is
found to be mostly loose dust, either method works equally well.
Elements that are cleaned with compressed air can be put back into service immediately. Ele-
ments cleaned by washing must be dried before returning them to service.
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1. Direct a jet of clean, dry air from the inside of the filter element, perpendicular to the
pleats.
2. Move the air jet up and down along the pleats, slowly rotating the element, until no more
dust is being removed. Do not rupture the element with the nozzle or the air jet.
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1. The elements can be cleaned by washing with water and a good non-sudsing detergent.
Direct a jet of clean, dry air from the inside of the filter element. Wash the element after the
loose dust and soot are removed.
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6. Rinse the element with clean water until the water coming through the element is clean.
Air-dry the element thoroughly before using.
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After cleaning the filter element, inspect the element for damage. Look for dust on the clean air
side, the slightest rupture, or damaged gaskets. A good method to use to detect ruptures in the
element is to place a light inside the element and look toward the light from the outside. Any
hole in the element will pass dust to the engine and cause unnecessary engine wear. Replace the
element if holes are evident.
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Before installing the filter element, remove foreign material (leaves, lint or other foreign matter)
that may have collected inside the air cleaner body. Inspect the inside of the body for dents or
other damage that would interfere with air flow or with the fins on the element or inside the
body. Repair any body dents, being careful not to damage the sealing surfaces. Be sure to clean
the sealing surface of the outlet tube and the inside of the outlet tube, taking care not to damage
the sealing area on the tube.
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Vacuator valves are designed to expel loose dust and dirt from the air cleaner body automati-
cally, thus lengthening the element service life. The valve lips must point straight down and be
kept free from debris to operate effectively. Mud and chaff can lodge in these lips periodically
and hold them open during engine operation.
Check the condition of the valve and lips frequently and keep them clean. The valve lips should
be open only when the engine is shut down, or running at low idle speed. If the valve is turned
inside out, check for a clogged air cleaner inlet. Malfunction of this valve does not reduce the air
cleaner effectiveness, but does allow the element to get dirty faster and reduces serviceable life.
If a valve is lost or damaged, replace it with a new valve of the same part number.
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1. Check the intake pipe cap and screen for accumulation of leaves, trash, and other debris
that could restrict air flow. Repair the screen or replace the cap if any large holes are found
in the screen.
2. Check all mounting hardware for security to eliminate possible vibration of intake piping.
Such vibration leads to early failure of hoses, clamps, and mounting parts, and can cause
hoses to slip off the connecting pipes, allowing un-filtered air into the engine air intake.
3. Check hoses for cracks, chafing, or deterioration, and replace at the first sign of probable
failure.
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The cooling system consists of the radiator, coolant recovery tank, engine cooling circuit, and
the connecting hoses. Cooling system capacity is approximately 37.9 liters (52 quarts). The
temperature is controlled by a 83 °C (181 °F) thermostat located between the top of the engine
and the top of the radiator. At all times, the antifreeze/coolant should be properly inhibited
against corrosion. It is recommended that a 50/50 fully formulated antifreeze coolant be used at
all times.
The radiator assembly consists of the engine water cooler, charge air cooler, and the shroud.
A radiator coolant level switch is installed in the top portion of the radiator. Coolant level high/
low signals are supplied to the engine ECM.
The crane is equipped with cab hot water heaters. Hot water is supplied by the engine coolant
system through cable operated shutoff valves to each heater. The hot water to the superstructure
heater also passes through a strainer and two port water swivel. The strainer is a cleanable type
and is located on the right side of the carrier frame at the front corner of hydraulic reservoir.
Refer to Section 21 - LUBRICATION for service of the strainer.
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The cooling system includes the radiator, coolant recovery tank, thermostat, the fan, and water
pump. Radiator hoses are also included in this group.
The cooling system is often neglected because the effects or damage that result from an improp-
erly maintained system usually occur gradually. The cooling system needs to be maintained
with the same attention as other systems.
The circulation of water through the cooling system relies entirely upon the water pump. The
water pump draws water from the radiator and forces it through the water jacket and cylinder
head. There it accumulates heat and flows to the top radiator tank. Then the water flows down
through the radiator core and is cooled by air from the fan. This process of removing heat from
water as it circulates holds the engine to its efficient operating temperature.
The following paragraphs point out several facts about cooling system components, the effects
of cooling system neglect, and procedures to be followed for cooling system maintenance.
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Whenever an engine does not perform at top efficiency, a neglected cooling system may be at
fault even though the part directly responsible is not a part of the cooling system. Most of these
11-20
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problems can be traced to overheating; however, an engine that is running too cold can be just as
troublesome.
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1. Burned valves.
2. Pinging or knocking.
5. Sticking valves.
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To keep engines operating at newness efficiency, all forms of rust formation must be prevented.
The formation of rust in the cooling system is a result of the interaction of water, iron, and oxy-
gen, and can only be prevented by maintaining full strength corrosion protection at all times.
For maximum rust, freeze, and boiling point protection, a 50/50 blended, fully formulated
extended life antifreeze/coolant should be maintained at all times. Failure to use and maintain
the fully formulated coolant will increase maintenance needs.
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1. Fill the system with a 50/50 blended, fully formulated extended life antifreeze/coolant. Fill
to the bottom of the surge tank filler neck. Fill slowly. Flow exceeding 5 gpm (19 l/min)
can give a false reading.
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2. Wait one minute and recheck the antifreeze/coolant level. Refill as necessary repeating step
1.
3. Run the engine for 5 minutes and recheck the antifreeze/coolant level. Refill as necessary
repeating step 1.
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The cooling system level should be checked every 10 hours of operation or daily, whichever
comes first.
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Supplemental coolant additives (SCA) are recommended for this cooling system. Antifreeze
alone does not provide sufficient protection for heavy-duty diesel engines.
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DCA4 is the recommended SCA. Other brands can be used if they provide adequate engine pro-
tection and do not cause seal or gasket degradation or corrosion/fouling.
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• Change coolant filter (replace with Coolant Filter/DCA4 Corrosion Resistor Cartridge,
GROVE Service Part Number 9414101675).
• Check SCA Levels (use only the DCA4 Coolant Test Kit, GROVE Service Part Number
9414101675, to check the coolant additive concentration in the cooling system).
If SCA levels are less than 1.2 Units/Gal, add Cummins DCA4 to maintain desired level.
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• Change coolant filter (replace with Coolant Filter/DCA4 Corrosion Resistor Cartridge,
GROVE Service Part Number 9414101675).
• Test coolant for contamination.
Condemning limits are:
If condemned, flush the system using a commercially available flushing agent. Refill system
with fully formulated extended life coolant. Refer to Section 16 - LUBRICATION.
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1. Coolant shut-off valves to heaters and other accessories should be open to allow complete
circulation during cleaning, flushing, and draining. Run the engine with radiator covered if
necessary until temperature is up to operating range 71 to 82 °C (160 to 180 °F). Stop the
engine, remove the radiator cap, and drain the system by opening the drain cocks on the
radiator and engine block.
2. Allow the engine to cool, close the drain cocks, and pour the cleaning compound into the
surge tank according to the directions. Fill the system with water.
3. Place a clean drain pan to catch the overflow, and use it to maintain the level in the radiator.
Do not spill the solution on the vehicle paint.
4. Replace the radiator cap and run the engine at moderate speed, covering the radiator if nec-
essary, so the system reaches a temperature of 82 °C (180 °F) or above, but does not reach
the boiling point. Allow the engine to run at least two hours, or according to recommenda-
tions of the manufacturer of the cleaning compound, at 82 °C (180 °F) so the cleaning
solution may take effect. Do not drive the vehicle or allow the liquid level in the radiator to
drop low enough to reduce circulation.
5. Stop the engine as often as necessary to prevent boiling.
6. With the engine stopped, feel the radiator core with bare hands to check for cold spots, and
then observe the temperature gauge reading. When there is no change in temperature for
some time, drain the cleaning solution.
7. If clogging of the core is relieved but not fully corrected, allow the engine to cool, pres-
sure-flush the system (see Pressure Flushing) and repeat the cleaning operation.
8. If clogging of the core, indicated by low temperature spots on core, is not relieved, the radi-
ator core must be removed for mechanical cleaning. Mechanical cleaning requires removal
of the upper and lower tanks, and rodding out the accumulated rust and scale from the
water passages of the core.
35(6685()/86+,1*
1. Disconnect both radiator hoses that connect the radiator to the engine.
2. Clamp a convenient length of hose to the radiator core outlet opening, and attach another
suitable length of hose to the radiator inlet opening to carry away the flushing stream.
3. Connect the flushing gun to compressed air and water pressure, and clamp the gun nozzle
to the hose attached to the radiator outlet opening.
4. Fill the core with water. Turn on air pressure in short blasts to prevent core damage.
5. Continue filling the radiator with water and applying air pressure as above until the water
comes out clear.
11-23
(1*,1(706(
6. Clamp the flushing gun nozzle firmly to a hose attached securely to the engine water outlet
opening. Fill the engine block with water, partly covering the water inlet opening to permit
complete filling.
7. Turn on compressed air to blow out water and loose sediment. Continue filling with water
and blowing out with air until flushing stream comes out clear.
8. For badly clogged water jackets that do not respond to regular pressure flushing, remove
the engine cylinder head and core hole plugs, and with a suitable length of small copper
tubing attached to the flushing gun nozzle, flush the water jackets through the openings.
9. When the vehicle is equipped with a water heater connected to the cooling system, flush
the heater, following the same procedure as for the radiator core.
10. After completing the flushing operation, clean out the overflow pipe; inspect the water
pump; clean the thermostat and the radiator cap control valves. Check the thermostat for
proper operation before installation.
11. Blow insects and dirt from the radiator core air passages, using water, if necessary, to
soften obstructions.
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1. Top and Bottom Tanks - Look for leaks, particularly where the tank is soldered to the core.
Vibration and pulsation from pressure can fatigue soldered seams.
2. Filler Neck - The sealing seat must be smooth and clean. Cams on filler neck must not be
bent or worn so as to allow a loose fitting cap. Ensure the overflow tube is not plugged.
3. Radiator Cap - This is the pressure-setting type. Its purpose is to hold the cooling system
under a slight pressure, increasing the boiling point of the cooling solution and preventing
loss of solution due to evaporation and overflow.
The cap has a spring-loaded valve, the seat of which is below the overflow pipe in the filler
neck. This prevents the escape of air or liquid while the cap is in position. When the cooling
system pressure reaches a predetermined point, the cap valve opens and will again close when
the pressure falls below the predetermined point.
When removing the pressure type cap, perform the operation in two steps. Loosening the cap to
its first notch raises the valve from the gasket and releases the pressure through the overflow
pipe. In the first stage position of the cap, it should be possible to depress the cap approximately
0.13 in (3 mm). The prongs on the cap can be bent to adjust this condition. Care must be taken
that the cap is not too loose as this would prevent proper sealing.
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4. Tubes are very small and can become easily clogged by rust and scale. The general condi-
tion of the cooling system and operating temperature are indications as to whether or not
tubes are clean. Another good test is to feel the core for cold spots.
5. Fins are thin metal sheets that dissipate heat picked up by the tubes. They should be kept
free of bugs, leaves, straw etc., so as to allow the free passage of air. Bent fins should be
straightened.
11-24
706((1*,1(
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The water jacket permits coolant to be circulated around the cylinder walls, combustion cham-
ber, and valve assemblies. Some of these coolant passages are small and can easily become
clogged, if the cooling system does not receive the proper maintenance.
1. Core Plugs - These are sometimes mistakenly called freeze plugs. They do not provide pro-
tection against freezing expansion, but are only present because of engine block casting
methods. Remove and replace core plugs that show signs of leaking or rusting through.
Use an installation tool for core plug replacement.
2. Drain Plugs - The water jacket of each engine has one or more drain plugs. These should
receive seasonal care and be kept free of rust and scale.
3. Gaskets - Gaskets must be in good condition to prevent both internal and external leaks. If
there are external leaks around gaskets, there may also be internal leaks into the engine.
Proper tightening of the head bolts with a torque wrench is essential for preventing leaks
around the head gasket.
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The pump should be checked carefully for leaks and proper lubrication. Replace or rebuild if
leaking, cracked, or worn.
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The thermostat is of the nonadjustable type and is incorporated in the cooling system for the
purpose of retarding or restricting the circulation of coolant during engine warm up. Engine
overheating and loss of coolant is sometimes due to an inoperative thermostat. To check for this
condition, remove the thermostat and test by submerging it in hot water and noting the tempera-
ture at which the thermostat opens and closes. Use an accurate high temperature thermometer
for making this test.
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Hoses and their connections must be checked regularly because they are often the source of hid-
den trouble. Hoses may often times appear in good condition on the outside while the inside
will be partially deteriorated. If there are any doubts about a hose doing its job, replacement
should be made. The clamps should be inspected to make sure they are strong enough to hold a
tight connection.
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Heavy duty diesel engines require a balanced mixture of water and antifreeze/coolant. Fill the
system with a 50/50 blended, fully formulated extended life antifreeze/coolant at all times.
Refer to Lubrication section. Do not use more than 50 percent antifreeze/coolant in the mixture
unless additional freeze protection is required. Never use more than 68 percent antifreeze/cool-
ant under any condition. Antifreeze/coolant at 68 percent provides the maximum freeze protec-
tion; antifreeze/coolant protection decreases above 68 percent.
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The engine has a coolant filter of the canister or spin-on type that requires periodic servicing. It
is suggested that this be done when engine oil and filter are changed. Refer to “Cooling/SCA
Maintenance Summary”. There is a shut off valve located on the coolant filter head. Turn it to
the OFF position before removing the filter. After changing filter, be sure the valve is positioned
to the ON position Radiator assembly Removal AND Installation.
11-26
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1. Radiator
2. Shroud
3. Coolant Level Switch
4. Sensor Level
5. Overflow Hose
6. Baffle
7. Radiator Cap
8. Radiator To Recovery Tank Hose
9. Recovery Tank
10. Fan
11. Fan Guard
12. Cover Plate
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Radiator Installation
11-27
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1. Open the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant into a suitable con-
tainer. Dispose of the coolant in accordance with local and EPA regulations.
2. Set the outriggers and position the boom to over the side.
5. Disconnect the hoses from the coolant recovery tank and remove the tank from the top cen-
ter hood panel.
6. Remove the hardware securing the top center hood panel to the front and rear cowls and
remove the panel with doors from the crane.
7. Remove the hardware securing the left and right lower side panels to the front cowl.
8. Remove the hardware securing the front grill panel to the front cowl and remove the grill.
9. Remove the hardware securing the front cowl and remove the front cowl.
10. Disconnect the hoses from the top and bottom of the radiator assembly.
11. Remove the eight bolts, washers, and lockwashers attaching the fan guards to the shroud.
Remove the fan guards.
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1. Position the radiator/air cooler assembly in the carrier using a lifting device and secure to
the mounting brackets using the two mounts, hardened washers, and nuts.
2. Position the fan guards on the shroud and secure with eight bolts, washers, and lockwash-
ers.
3. Route the air cooler tube through the baffle on the right side and connect it to the top of the
turbocharger and the bottom tube on the air cooler using the bellows and clamps. Tighten
the clamps 35 to 45 in-lbs (4 to 5 Nm).
4. Connect the air cooler tube to the top of the air cooler using a bellows and clamps. Tighten
the clamps 35 to 45 in-lbs (4 to 5 Nm).
5. Connect the hoses to the top and bottom of the radiator.
11-28
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11-29
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The drive train consists of the manual transmission, clutch, and drive lines.
A 39.4 cm (15-1/2 in) - 2 plate pull type disc clutch is used between the engine and the trans-
mission.
The transmission is an 11 speed forward and three speed reverse and is controlled through a
remote shifter with mechanical linkage. Range shift is air controlled. The transmission oil is
cooled by an oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.
There are two drive shafts connected between the transmission and the front rear axle. An inter-
axle shaft connects the rear axles.
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,iÛ> 1. Support the drive line being removed so it does not fall when disconnected.
2. Remove the bolts from the bearing cap on each end of the drive line. Remove the drive line.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the drive line, install the bearing cap bolts and tighten bolts securely.
2. Torque the bearing cap bolts on the drive line 122 to 149 N·m (90 to 110 ft-lbs).
ÕLÀV>Ì Drive line U-joints are permanently lubricated and do not have any provisions for servicing.
12-1
'5,9(75$,1 706(
TORQUE
122 to 149 Nm
TORQUE (90 to 110 ft-lb)
122 to 149 Nm
(90 to 110 ft-lb)
$ TORQUE
122 to 149 Nm
(90 to 110 ft-lb)
TORQUE
122 to 149 Nm
(90 to 110 ft-lb)
TORQUE TORQUE
136 Nm 122 to 149 Nm
(100 ft-lb) (90 to 110 ft-lb)
12-2
706( '5,9(75$,1
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The clutch is a 39.4 cm (15-1/2 in), 2-plate, pull-type heavy duty unit. It incorporates a clutch
brake that stops the rotation of the transmission gears to facilitate quick engagement on the ini-
tial start. It also slows down the gears on the upshift so the next higher gear can be engaged
without gear clash. The clutch brake is engaged by pressing the clutch pedal through the last one
inch of pedal travel.
The lever on the shaft for the throwout bearing is actuated directly by mechanical linkage oper-
ated by the clutch pedal.
Periodic free-travel checks and adjustment, and lubrication of the throwout bearing with a small
amount of high temperature grease should be scheduled for trouble free clutch operation. Do not
use chassis grease. Refer to Section 21 - LUBRICATION.
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The 39.4 cm (15-1/2 in) clutch flywheel ring (cover) is attached to the engine flywheel by eight
7/16-inch capscrews. The pressure plate is driven by driving lugs extending into mating slots in
the flywheel ring (cover). The intermediate plate is driven by drive pins located in the engine
flywheel.
Depressing the clutch pedal pulls the release bearing assembly toward the transmission. The
release bearing, being connected to the release levers, thus retracts the pressure plate from con-
tact with the driven disc assembly. This relieves the pressure on the intermediate plate and the
forward driven disc assembly, which disengages the clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal allows
the release bearing assembly to move toward the engine, permitting the pressure plate, under
powerful spring pressure, to move toward the flywheel gripping the discs and causing engage-
ment.
12-3
'5,9(75$,1 706(
1. Clutch Assembly
2. Adjusting Lever
3. Governor Spring
4. Pilot Bearing
5. Crank
6. Lockwasher
7. Bolt
8. Clutch Release Shaft and Parts
Clutch Installation
12-4
706( '5,9(75$,1
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1. Chatter. a. Loose, broken, or worn a. Tighten or replace
engine mounts. mounts.
b. Loose or cracked clutch B. Tighten or replace.
housing.
c. Rear axle attach bush- c. Replace bushings.
ings worn.
d. Misalignment. d. Align.
e. Oil or grease on fac- e. Install new facings or
ings. disc assembly.
f. Warped or bent driven f. Replace,
disc assembly.
g. Improper disc facing g. Install proper disc
thickness. assembly.
h. Worn pilot bearing. h. Replace.
i. Wrong spring pressure i. Use correct cover
in the cover assembly. assembly.
j. Cross shaft bushings j. Replace the bushings.
worn.
k. Release levers not par- k. Recheck installation.
allel.
2. Aggressive (grabby). a. Excessive backlash in a. Worn parts.
the power train.
b. Warped driven disc. b. Install a new disc
assembly.
c. Worn hub splines. c. Install a new disc
assembly.
d. Worn splines on splined d. Replace shaft.
shaft.
e. Improper facing mate- e. Install proper driven
rial. disc assembly.
3. Insufficient release. a. Broken or loose engine a. Tighten or replace.
mounts.
b. Excessive idling speed. b. Adjust to factory speci-
fications.
12-5
'5,9(75$,1 706(
12-6
706( '5,9(75$,1
12-7
'5,9(75$,1 706(
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"6 1. Remove the transmission following the procedures in this section under TRANSMISSION
- REMOVAL.
2. Install two 19 mm (0.75 in) blocks of wood between the clutch flywheel ring and the clutch
release bearing housing as the clutch mounting bolts are loosened around the flywheel.
3. Remove the bolts and washers mounting the clutch to the flywheel.
5. If necessary, remove the setscrews and drive pins from the flywheel.
12-8
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2. Secure the dial indicator to the flywheel housing with the gauge finger on the flywheel near
the outer edge. Rotate flywheel.
3. The total indicated difference between the high and low joints must be 0.178 mm (0.007
in) or less for a 35.6 cm (14 in) clutch, 0.203 mm (0.008 in) or less for a 39.4 cm (15.5 in)
clutch.
4. Secure a dial indicator to the crankshaft. With the gauge finger against the housing pilot,
rotate the crankshaft. Use a marker or soapstone to mark the high and low points.
Total difference between high and low points should not exceed 0.203 mm (0.008 in).
5. Move the gauge finger to contact the face of the engine flywheel housing.
Again, rotate the crankshaft and then mark high and low points. The total difference between
the high and low points should not exceed 0.203 mm (0.008 in).
12-9
'5,9(75$,1 706(
6. Move the gauge finger to contact the pilot bearing bore surface. Again, rotate the flywheel.
The maximum total allowable runout is 0.127 mm (0.005 in). If these limits are exceeded, the
problem must be corrected or misalignment will cause premature wear to the drive train compo-
nents
-//" Ê
1. Insert two 12.7 cm (5 in) long 7/16 inch - 14 UNC guide studs into the two upper mounting
holes of the flywheel.
Insert the aligning tool through the release bearing sleeve in the new clutch.
3. Put the rear driven disc on the aligning tool with the side stamped “pressure plate” facing
the pressure plate.
4. Place the intermediate plate in the clutch cover and align the driving lugs of the plate with
the slots provided.
12-11
'5,9(75$,1 706(
FLUSH
PROTRUDING
5. Positive Separator (Roll) pins should be flush on the clutch side, protruding on flywheel
side.
12-12
706( '5,9(75$,1
6. Install the front disc on the aligning tool with the side stamped “flywheel” facing the
engine.
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The relative position of the buttons on the front and rear driven discs is not important.
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7. Position the clutch over the guide studs and slide it forward until contact is made with the
flywheel surface. The clutch assembly weighs approximately 68 kg (150 lb), so a hoist
may be required to lift it into place.
8. Start the eight 7/16 inch bolts with lockwashers and tighten them finger tight.
12-13
'5,9(75$,1 706(
9. Tighten the bolts in the cress-cross sequence to pull the clutch into its proper position in the
flywheel pilot. You must start with the lower left-hand bolt.
10. To achieve the final torque, progressively tighten all bolts 61 to 69 N·m(45 to 50 ft-lb).
As the bolts are tightened, the wooden spacers should fall out. If they do not fall free, remove
them. If necessary, lightly tap on the aligning tool with a mallet to remove it.
Bearing position should be approximately 9.53 to 15.88 mm (0.375 to 0.625 in) from the clutch
cover.
9.53-15.88 mm
0.375-0.625 in
MEASURE
BORE SIZE
If greater than 15.88 mm (0.625 in) check possible disc to flywheel bore interference.
Using a 6.35 mm (0.25 in) diameter flat nose drift, lightly tap each of the four positive separator
pins toward the flywheel. After tapping, the pins should be flush against the flywheel.
12-14
706( '5,9(75$,1
- Replace the shaft if any wear is noticed. The clutch won’t release if the shaft is
notched.
- Do not coat the shaft with grease or never seize. Install discs dry or wipe on a light
coat of oil.
If a clutch brake is used, be sure to install it on the input shaft of the transmission at this time.
12. Refer to TRANSMISSION - INSTALLATION in this Section, and install the transmission.
1/
Ê1-/ Remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the clutch housing and make the following
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inspections and adjustments if required.
12-15
'5,9(75$,1 706(
The release levers of new or factory exchange cover assemblies are properly adjusted and
locked at assembly and will not require further adjustment. However, after the transmission has
been securely attached to the engine, the release sleeve must be adjusted until the correct dis-
tance between the surface of the release bearing housing and the front brake disc is obtained.
1. Clutch brake squeeze should begin 25.4 mm (1.0 in) above the pedal stroke. This is con-
trolled by adjusting the rod end bearings evenly at each rod end. Lengthen the rod to
squeeze closer to end of pedal stroke.
2. Visually check the travel of the release bearing after working the pedal several times.
Release travel should be 12.7 to 14.3 mm (0.5 to 0.5625 in).
a. Insert a 3/4 inch socket (12 points) or a 3/4 inch box end wrench through the inspection
hole and depress the square headed bolt to adjust the clutch.
b. Turning the bolt M 2-1/3 rotations changes the adjustment 3.175 mm (0.125 in). The
Kwik-Adjust will re-engage at a quarter of a turn. The flat of the bolt will align with the
flat edge of the bracket.
4. Set the clutch pedal free travel to 25.4 to 38.1 mm (1.0 to 1.5 in) using the adjusting screw
on the clutch pedal adjusting lever.
5. After all adjustments are made, tighten all jam nuts to lock rod end bearings to the control
rods and pivot arms.
6. Install the inspection plate on the bottom of the clutch housing and road test the crane for
proper clutch operation.
1/
Ê1-/ 1. Remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the clutch housing.
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2. Depress the clutch pedal several times and check for the 9.525 to 12.7 mm (0.375 to 0.5 in)
release bearing travel. Readjust if necessary.
3. Check the clutch pedal for 38.1 mm (1.5 in) of free travel. Readjust if necessary.
4. Install the inspection plate on the bottom of the clutch housing and road test the crane for
proper clutch operation.
,Ê /
1. Never underestimate the necessity of perfect clutch balance. For example, just 3 inch
ounces of clutch unbalance at 300 RPM is enough to fracture a crankshaft!
2. Pressure plates dished as much as 0.060 inch (1.5 mm) are re-ground by some rebuilders!
Not enough metal remains to dissipate heat. That means quick failure.
3. You should never wait for a clutch to slip before adjusting! Regular inspection of the
release bearing clearance insures proper adjustment.
4. Misalignment will cause chatter, grab, drag, or vibration... or all four! Alignment of clutch
and all other drive-line parts should be checked before taking crane off dead-line.
12-16
706( '5,9(75$,1
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The remote location of the transmission from the shift lever in the cab requires a mechanical
linkage between the cab and transmission case.
A master control unit is attached to the bottom of the gearshift lever under the cab floor and is
mechanically connected by a universally jointed rod to a slave shifter unit on top of the trans-
mission case. All of the motions of the gearshift lever are, in this way transmitted to the shift
fingers that engage the shift bars and locks of the transmission case.
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1. Excessive lever travel a. Setscrews loose in con- a. Tighten or replace set-
or sloppy feel when trol shaft universal screws.
shifting. joints or shift fingers.
2. Hard shifting. a. Bent shift bar in a. Disassemble and repair
transmission. Damage as necessary
d cross shaft or bush-
ings in master or slave
unit.
3. Transmission locked in a. Shift control shaft bro- a. Disassemble and repair
gear or in neutral gear- ken, U-joints loose or as necessary.
shift lever moves disconnected, cross
freely; no detent feel. shaft in slave unit bro-
ken or shift fingers
loose.
4. Gearshift lever posi- a. Lever in master unit a. Shift transmission to
tions do not correspond and cross shaft in slave neutral. Disconnect U-
to transmission gear unit out of phase. joints at shift control
ranges. slave unit; place gear
shift lever in neutral
position. Connect U-
joints and tighten set-
screws.
12-17
'5,9(75$,1 706(
,
"6 1. Shift the transmission to neutral. Bleed the air reservoirs and tag and disconnect the nylon
tubing at the range shift valve on the gearshift lever. Tag and disconnect the tubing at the
splitter valve.
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2. Loosen the bolts and washers in the universal joints on the shift control shaft (at both ends
of the shaft) and remove the shift control shaft.
3. Remove the capscrews securing the master control unit to the bracket.
4. Loosen the locknuts on the slave control unit mounting flange studs. Loosen the hex nuts
on the mounting studs, remove all nuts, and lift off the slave control unit.
-//" 1. Route the shift control tower up through the cut out in the cab floor. Apply Loctite to bolts.
Install bolts and washers and secure the slave unit to the plate.
2. Install the slave unit onto the studs in the transmission shift bar cover, ensuring the shift
fingers engage properly with the shift bars inside the transmission.
3. Position the gearshift lever to the neutral (perpendicular) position and install the shift con-
trol shaft, being careful to maintain the exact position of the slave unit input shaft and the
gearshift lever.
4. After installing the shift control shaft and ensuring the master and slave unit are synchro-
nized in the exact neutral position, tighten the setscrews on the shift control shaft universal
joint yokes. There are two setscrews on each yoke mounted at 90 degrees to each other.
Lockwire these setscrews after tightening.
12-18
706( '5,9(75$,1
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The transmission provides 11 forward speeds and three reverse, consisting of a five speed front
section and a three speed auxiliary section. The auxiliary section contains the LO and HI range
ratios, plus the three deep reduction gears. The range button is used once during an upshift
sequence and once during a downshift sequence. Deep reduction ratios are selected using the
deep reduction button on the control knob.
One ratio in the front section is used only in low range as a starting gear. The remaining four
ratios in the front section are used once through the reduction (low) gear in the range section
and once through direct (high) in the range section.
The twin countershaft design splits torque evenly between two countershafts, reducing gear
tooth pressure and wear. The floating mainshaft gears of this design eliminate gear bushings and
sleeves as gears float between mating gears on the countershafts.
/
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-""/ Before attempting to determine a cause of transmission noise or trouble, note what position the
gearshift lever is in when the trouble occurs. If the noise is evident in only one gear position, the
cause of the trouble is generally traceable to the gears in operation. There are times, however,
due to abnormal conditions in other parts of the crane, when noises are transmitted from the
engine, power train, frame, or body to the transmission and will appear to originate there. All
such sources should be checked out before removing and disassembling the transmission.
Another source of trouble could be a faulty air system or in the actuating parts of the shifting bar
housing. This will be noticed when the transmission fails to make a range shift, or shifts too
slowly.
12-19
'5,9(75$,1 706(
12-20
706( '5,9(75$,1
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12-22
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Ê 1. Refer to ENGINE REMOVAL in Section 11 - ENGINE and remove the engine and trans-
/, ---" mission as an assembly from the crane.
2. Remove the hydraulic pump drive from the transmission and engine. Refer to Pump Drive
in Section 17 - HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
12-23
'5,9(75$,1 706(
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3. Remove the bolts and washers securing the transmission housing to the engine housing.
4. Carefully pull back on the transmission, keeping it level until the input shaft is clear of the
clutch assembly.
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iiÀ> In some cases in field repair it may be necessary to replace only the input shaft due to clutch
wear on the splines.
In these instances the input shaft can be removed without disassembling the transmission other
than removing the shifting bar housing. Removal of the clutch housing is optional.
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Ã>ÃÃiLÞ 1. Remove the gear shift lever housing and shift bar housing from the transmission.
3. Engage the mainshaft sliding clutches in two gears and remove the drive gear bearing nut.
4. Move the drive gear assembly as far forward as possible and remove the drive gear bearing.
6. From the front, remove the snap ring from the ID of the drive gear.
7. Pull the input shaft forward and from the splines of the drive gear.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Install the new input shaft into the splines of the drive gear just far enough to expose the
snap ring groove in the ID of the drive gear.
4. Move the fourth-fifth speed sliding clutch gear forward to contact the end of the input shaft
in the hub of the drive gear. Block between the rear of the sliding clutch and the front of the
fourth speed gear. When installing the bearing this will hold the input shaft in position to
seat the bearing properly.
5. Install the drive gear bearing on the shaft and into the case bore. Ensure the blocking
remains in place.
6. Remove the blocking from the mainshaft and install the drive gear bearing nut (left-hand
thread). Use Loctite sealant on the threads of the nut and shaft.
8. Install the front bearing cover, shifting bar housing and gear shift lever housing.
-//" Ê"Ê 1. Refer to CLUTCH in this section and install the clutch as well as perform the required
/
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2. Put a very light film of wheel bearing grease on the input shaft of the transmission.
3. Attach an adequate lifting device to the transmission and position the transmission so the
transmission housing aligns with the engine flywheel housing.
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4. Carefully move the transmission forward, ensuring the shaft aligns with the splines on the
clutch discs and the clutch release yoke rides up and over the release bearing while the
shaft goes into the pilot bearing.
5. Install the 12 bolts and washers mounting the clutch housing to the engine flywheel hous-
ing. Torque the bolts to 68 N·m (50 ft-lb).
6. Install the bolts and washers securing the engine flywheel to the flywheel ring cover.
7. Install the hydraulic pump drive. Refer to Pump Drive in Section 17 - HYDRAULIC SYS-
TEM.
8. Refer to ENGINE - INSTALLATION in Section 11 and install the engine and transmis-
sion.
1 ,
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iiÀ> The transmission is designed so the internal parts operate in a bath of oil circulated by the
motion of gears and shafts. Grey iron parts have built-in channels where needed, to help lubri-
cate bearings and shafts.
12-25
'5,9(75$,1 706(
Thus, all parts will be amply lubricated if these procedures are closely followed.
À>}Ê" Drain the transmission while the oil is warm. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the case.
Clean the drain plug before installation.
,iv}Ê" Clean the area around the filler plugs and remove the plugs from each side of the case. Fill the
transmission to the level of the filler openings. The exact amount of oil will depend on the trans-
mission inclination, always fill to the proper level according to the dipstick. Do not overfill. This
will cause oil to be forced out of the case through the mainshaft opening.
``}Ê" It is recommended that types and brands of oil not be intermixed because of possible incompat-
ibility.
"«iÀ>Ì}Ê/i«iÀ> It is important the transmission operating temperature does not exceed 120 °C (250 °F) for an
ÌÕÀi extended period of time. Operating temperatures above 120 °C (250 °F) will cause breakdown
of the oil and shorter transmission life.
The following conditions in any combination can cause operating temperatures of over 120 °C
(250 °F).
*À«iÀÊÕLÀV>Ì If the transmission operating angle is more than 12 degrees, improper lubrication can occur. The
operating angle is the transmission mounting angle in the chassis plus the percent of upgrade
(expressed in degrees).
12-26
706( '5,9(75$,1
2. &OXWFK+RXVLQJ0RXQWLQJ Check all capscrews in the bolt circle of the clutch housing
for looseness.
3. &OXWFK5HOHDVH%HDULQJ Remove the hand hole cover and check radial and axial clear-
ances in the release bearing. Check the relative position of the thrust surface of the release
bearing with the thrust sleeve.
4. &OXWFK 3HGDO 6KDIW DQG %RUHV Pry upward on the shafts to check wear. If excessive
movement is found, remove the clutch release mechanism and check the bushings in the
bores and wear on the shafts.
5. *HDU/XEULFDQW Change at the specified service intervals. Use only gear oils as recom-
mended.
6. )LOOHUDQG'UDLQ3OXJV Remove the filler plugs and check the level of lubricant at speci-
fied intervals. Tighten the filler and drain plugs securely.
The following check can be made with the drive line dropped.
The following checks can be made with the universal joint companion flange removed.
1. 2XWSXW6KDIW Check splines for wear from movement and chucking action of the univer-
sal joint companion flange.
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The shift air system controls the selection of the transmission ranges and is comprised of an air
valve, air regulator, air filter range control valve, a range shift cylinder, and the necessary con-
necting piping.
The range control valve is located on the shift lever in the cab, and the other valves and cylin-
ders are mounted on the transmission.
12-27
'5,9(75$,1 706(
The range control valve has two positions HIGH (button up) and LOW (button down). There are
two air lines connected between it and the air valve. One of these is the supply line from the reg-
ulator, while the other is the air return to the air valve.
When the range control valve is in the LOW position, air is exiting the range control valve and
enters the slave air valve where it shifts the piston. This allows the air from the regulator to exit
the bottom port of the air valve, enter the low range air port of the auxiliary shift cylinder, and
shift the low speed gear.
When the range control valve is in the HIGH position, air is prevented from exiting the range
control valve. This allows the air entering the slave air valve from the regulator, to move the pis-
ton routing the air out of the valve to the high range port of the auxiliary shift cylinder. This
moves the shift bar shifting the high speed gear.
In addition to the range control button, a LO-LO button is incorporated to select two extra low
gears.
12-28
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The carrier has two non-driving front steer axles. The front axle centers are built of tem-
pered seamless steel tube center sections with heat treated steel forged knuckle pin ends.
Each front axle is bolted to the walking beam of the suspension system. Each axle is
anchored against forward, rearward, and side ways movement by adjustable torque rods
attached to the axles and to brackets on the carrier frame.
-ÕëiÃ
The front axle suspension uses air bags with walking beams. The air bags along with
shock absorbers are mounted on saddle assemblies above the walking beams. They pro-
vide for cushioning of road shock. The saddle assemblies are connected at the front by
pivot blocks to carrier mounted brackets. The air bags and shock absorbers are bolted to
the rear of the saddle assemblies and to carrier mounted brackets. A walking beam center
is attached to each saddle assembly with the ends attached to each front axle.
Rubber bushings in the walking beam centers and ends, and torque rod ends, restrict
excessive movement but allows enough movement to relieve stresses on metal parts. The
rubber joints allow a certain amount of in and out axle movement which permits each
axle to follow its own natural course more closely through turns. Once a straight line is
resumed, the bushings square off the tandem so that the leading tires set the tracking pat-
tern. Torque rods along with the walking beam creates a parallelogram style linkage that
assure positive axle alignment.
Air for the suspension system is controlled by a control valve on the side console in the
carrier cab and by two height control valves mounted on each side of the frame by the air
bags. Each height control valve is mechanically actuated by a control lever attached to
its respective saddle assembly. The valve controls the amount of air in each set of air
bags thus controlling the height of the frame. To deflate the entire air suspension system
(front and rear), position the SUSPENSION control valve on the carrier cab side panel to
DEFLATE. This causes the four height control valves to shift and dump all air from the
suspension air bags. Four pressure switches sense the air pressure in each set of air bags.
Low air pressure in any of the four sets of air bags will trip the respective pressure
switch to illuminate the DEFLATED indicator on the side console.
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Proper preventive maintenance will help control repair costs and downtime. If a major
overhaul is required, remove the tandem suspension and axle assemblies from the car-
rier. However, torque rods, air bags, shock absorbers, walking beams, and other compo-
nents can be removed separately as required with the axles remaining on the carrier.
Refer to Section 21 - LUBRICATION for specified lubrication intervals. Check the
torque on all bolts at least once a year.
i>Ê
iÌiÀÊ
>«Ê Periodically check the bolts on the saddle cap to prevent wear of the beam center bush-
>ÃÌiiÀÃ ing into the saddle assembly. Check bolt torque. Torque should be 225 to 275 ft-lb (305
to 372 Nm).
i>Ê
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Every 10,000 mi (16,090 km) check the torque of the beam end bolts. Torque 450 to 600
iVÌÃÊ>`Ê ft-lb (610 to 813 Nm). Jack up under each beam end and check for movement of the rub-
ÕÃ
}Ã ber end bushing. Worn bushings will allow movement and the bushings should be
replaced. Periodically inspect the beam for a lowering in the hanger and distorted or
frayed rubber. A gap on each side of the visible rubber at the lower end of the end bush-
ing is normal because the end bushing are in compression.
->``iÊÃÃiLÞÊ Periodically check the bolt torque on the saddle assembly end caps. Torque should be
`Ê
>«Ê>ÃÌiiÀÃ 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 372 Nm).
i>Ê
iÌiÀÊ The beam center bushings control lateral movement of the axles during cornering. Nor-
ÕÃ
}Ã mal wear is evidenced by rubber shredding from each end of the bushing. Worn bushings
result in increased lateral movement on turns, causing the inside walls of the tires to rub
on the suspension saddle assemblies during turns. Replace the bushings before serious
tire damage results.
i>Ê
iÌiÀÊ The center cross tube connects the two walking beams and maintains axle alignment in
ÀÃÃÊ/ÕLi turns. Inspect the cross tube for damage and, if bent, it must be replaced. A bent tube will
result in axle misalignment and cause abnormal tire wear.
ÀÊ >}Ã Check for wear or road damage. Check for air leaks. Check tightness of nuts and bolts.
Torque to 30 ft-lb (41 Nm).
i}
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ÌÀÊ Check valve, fittings, and air lines for leaks. Check actuating linkage for bent or dam-
6>Ûià aged condition.
13-2
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1. Raise the crane on outriggers until the weight is off the tires and place jack stands
under the carrier frame.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies from both sides of the axles.
4. Place an adequate lifting/supporting device under the axles and suspension system.
5. Tag and disconnect the air lines to the four brake chambers and the four air bags.
Remove the fittings from the air bag connections. Cap all hoses and openings.
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6. Remove the bolts, hardened washers, and nuts securing each of the torque rods to
the carrier frame.
7. Remove the cotter pin and nut securing each vertical socket drag link to the axle.
8. Remove the cotter pin and nut securing each steer cylinder to the axles.
9. Remove the hardware securing the linage rod of each height control valve to its
respective saddle assembly.
10. Remove the nut, lockwasher, and hardened washer securing each shock absorber to
the carrier frame.
11. With the axles and suspension fully supported, remove the two nuts and washers
securing each of the four air bags to the carrier frame brackets.
12. Remove the two bolts and washers securing each of the four saddle assemblies cap
blocks to the carrier frame brackets.
13. Remove the axles and suspension assembly from under the carrier.
13-4
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Disassemble the axle and suspension assembly as necessary using the following proce-
dures.
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1. Remove the bolts, hardened washers, and nuts securing each torque rod to the axle
brackets.
2. Remove each shock absorber from the suspension saddle assembly by removing the
nut and two washers securing each. Remove the shock absorber(s).
3. Remove each axle from the walking beams by removing the two bolts, washers,
and nuts securing each end of the axle to the walking beam end bushings. Remove
the axle(s).
4. Remove the saddle assemblies from the walking beams by removing two bolts and
washers from each pivot block cap. Remove the caps. Remove the saddle assem-
blies and the trunnion tube from the walking beams.
5. Remove each air bag from the saddle assembly by removing the bolt and lock-
washer. Remove the air bag(s).
ÃÃiLÞ
As necessary, assemble the axle and suspension assembly using the following proce-
dures.
1. Position the air bag(s) on the saddle assembly and secure each with a bolt and lock-
washer.
2. Position the trunnion tube through the center bushing on each walking beam. Posi-
tion each saddle assembly over the center bushing and secure with the pivot block
cap and two bolts and lockwashers. Torque the bolts 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 373
Nm).
3. Position the axle(s) under the walking beams aligning the axle brackets with the bar
end bushings on the walking beams. Secure each end with two bolts, washers, and
nuts. Torque the bolts 450 to 600 ft-lb (610 to 814 Nm).
4. Position the shock absorber(s) on the saddle assembly and secure each with a nut
and two washers. Torque the nuts 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 373 Nm).
5. Position the torque rods in the axle brackets and secure each with two bolts, hard-
ened washers, and nuts.
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13-5
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2. Raise the assembly into position under the carrier aligning the saddle assemblies
pivot blocks and air bags with the mounting brackets on the carrier.
3. Install the four saddle assemblies cap blocks and secure each with the two bolts and
washers. Torque the bolts to 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 373 Nm).
4. Secure the four air bags to the carrier brackets with two nuts and washers. Torque
the nuts to 30 ft-lb (41 Nm).
5. Secure each shock absorber to the carrier frame with a nut, lockwasher, and hard-
ened washer.
6. Secure the linkage rod of each height control valve to its respective saddle assem-
bly with the attaching hardware.
7. Attach the steer 100 to 125 ft-lb (136 to 170 Nm). Tighten to nearest cotter pin hole
and insert cotter pin.
8. Attach the vertical socket drag links to each axle using the slotted nut and cotter
pin. Torque nut 100 to 125 ft-lb (136 to 170 Nm). Tighten to nearest cotter pin hole
and insert cotter pin.
9. Attach the four torque rods to the carrier frame using two bolts, hardened washers,
and nuts each.
10. Install the air fittings in the inlet of the air bags. Connect the air lines to the air bags
and brake chambers as tagged during removal.
11. Service the axles and suspension system. Refer to Section 21 - LUBRICATION.
12. Build up air pressure in the systems and check for leaks. Check operation of brakes
and air suspension system.
13. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to WHEELS AND TIRES in this Sec-
tion.
14. Retract the outriggers and check the axles for proper operation.
ÝiÊ}iÌÊ*ÀVi`ÕÀi
1. Place wood blocks between the saddle assemblies and the frame so that the top sur-
faces of the saddle assemblies is parallel to the bottom of the carrier frame.
2. Measure the longitudinal distance from the center of the rear axle saddle blocks to
the center of the king pin on the last front axle as shown in the figure titled Axle
Alignment. If necessary, adjust the shims in the walking beam ends. The correct
side to side location is achieved by adding or removing shims at the lateral rods.
3. Measure diagonally from the center of the rear axle saddle blocks to the center of
the opposite king pin on last front axle as shown in the figure titled Axle Align-
ment. If the diagonal measurements are not with in 0.50 in mm (12.7), check the
location of the suspension hangers and air bag hangers and adjust as necessary.
13-6
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Axle Alignment
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/iÊ`ÕÃÌiÌ Toe-in is having the wheels of a steerable axle closer together in the front than in the
rear. Toe-in is necessary for both tire wear and to keep the wheels from weaving side to
side.
Toe-In Adjustment
3. Adjust the tie rod as needed to provide between 0 to 0.06 in (0.0 to 1.5 mm) of toe-
in for each wheel. Double check to ensure both wheels have the correct toe-in.
4. Position the clamps on the tie rod beams so that they clear the axle when the wheels
are turned. Tighten the clamps and recheck toe-in measurement.
ÝiÊ-Ì«Ê-iÌÌ}Ã 1. Remove and discard the axle stop bolts on the last front axle.
2. Adjust the axle stop bolts on the first front axle the bolts should be adjusted in or
out as needed to obtain a measurement of 0.125 in (3.175 mm) minimum from the
rigid axle stop to the top of the bolt head. Refer to figure titled Stop Bolt Adjust-
ment.
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13-8
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1. Assemble front relay arm (Detail #9) and drag link (Detail #7). Install the assembly
on the carrier frame.
2. Attach rear relay arm (Detail #8) to the opposite end of drag link (Detail #7) and
then install the relay arm on the carrier frame.
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3. Install a 0.328 in (8.33 mm) diameter rig pin through the front relay arm mounting
bracket and the front relay arm. Adjust drag link (Detail #7) so that a 0.328 in (8.33
mm) rig pin can be installed through the rear relay arm mounting bracket and the
rear relay arm.
4. Check that the front wheels are aligned to the straight ahead position by using a
straight edge long enough to lay across the wheel mounting surfaces of both front
axles. Adjust drag links (Detail #5) to fit between the relay arms (Details #8 and #9)
and the axle steer arms.
5. Check the position of the pitman arm on the steering gearbox and adjust if neces-
sary. Attach drag link (Detail #6) to the pitman and adjust its length as needed to fit
between the pitman arm and the front relay arm (Detail #9) while keeping the pit-
man arm position fixed.
6. Remove the relay arm rig pins and secure all drag links.
7. Check that the rod ends on all drag links are within the limits shown in the figure
titled Drag Link Installation.
>Ê`ÕÃÌiÌÃ 1. Inflate tires to the pressure specified on the tire inflation chart located on the carrier
cab door.
2. Start the engine and allow both air systems to reach full system pressure. Ensure the
crane is on a flat level surface. Ensure the top surface of each saddle assembly is
parallel with the bottom surface of the carrier frame by measuring the distance at
the front and rear of the saddle assemblies. If necessary, adjust the height control
valves to raise or lower the saddle assemblies into a parallel position.
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13-9
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3. To ensure proper adjustment, drive the front wheels onto greased plates or a suit-
able turntable so that the friction between the tires and ground is reduced.
4. If greased plates are not available, raise the crane 1.5 in (3.75 cm) from the static
height by lowering the outrigger jack cylinders. This will allow adjustment of the
drag links without damage, but will require rechecking the alignment after the axles
are fully loaded.
5. Crack the fittings on each steer cylinder and turn the steering wheel from stop to
stop, bleeding the cylinders until there is no air. Tighten fittings.
6. Install the relay arm rig pins. Refer to paragraph titled Drag Link Installation and
Axle Synchronization
7. Partially extend the outrigger beams. Attach a string line to front and rear outrigger
beams as shown in the figure titled Axle Alignment. Ensure the string line is taut
and level.
13-10
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8. Referring to figure titled Axle Alignment, ensure that Dimension C equals Dimen-
sion D and that Dimension E equals Dimension F.
9. Referring to the Figure titled Drag Link Installation, adjust the drag links (Detail 5)
as required so that the distance from the string line to the front of each wheel is the
same as the distance from the string line to the rear of the same wheel within 0.06 in
(1.5 mm). Check that the rod ends of the drag links are within limits specified in
figure.
3. Adjust the axle stop as necessary to get the maximum cramp angle and proper
clearances.
4. Remove the pipe plugs from the tee fittings of the first front axle steer cylinder and
install a 0 to 3000 psi (0 to 21,000 kPa) pressure gauge in each location.
5. With the full weight of the machine on properly inflated tires and on a hard firm
surface, slowly drive the crane forward and turn the wheels to full left turn against
the axle stops.
6. Pressure on the left turn gauge should not exceed 900 psi (6206 kPa). If the pressure
is to high or the axle stop is not making contact with the axle, adjust the relief
plunger in the steering gearbox so the axle stop is making contact with the axle and
the pressure does not exceed 900 psi (6206 kPa).
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7. Refer to figure titled Setting Relief Plungers to determine which plunger to adjust
for the direction of travel. Recheck stops and pressure by driving crane slowly for-
ward while turning the wheels against the stops.
9. Ensure the plunger adjusting screws are a minimum depth of 0.16 in (4 mm).
10. Remove the pressure gauges and install the pipe plugs.
11. Ensure the top surface of each saddle assembly is parallel with the bottom surface
of the carrier frame by measuring the distance at the front and rear of the saddle
assemblies. If necessary, adjust the height control valves to raise or lower the saddle
assemblies into a parallel position.
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The steering system is comprised of the steering gearbox, steer pump, and two steer cyl-
inders. The steering gearbox provides for full time hydraulic steering, but still allows for
manual steering in the event of a system malfunction.
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13-14
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13. Wheel turns hard in a. Dirt or foreign matter a. Check pressure relief.
one or both direc- trapped in piston
tions. relief.
b. Bent or damaged king b. Repair or replace king
pins and tie rods. pins and tie rods.
c. Front end load too c. Lighten load.
great.
d. Low oil level in steer- d. Fill oil reserve as
ing system. required.
14. Wheel turns hard in a. Air in system. a. Bleed system and
one or both direc- check for cause of air.
tions.
b. Caster degree incor- b. Correct to specified
rect. degree.
15. Wheel turns hard in a. Metal or foreign mate- a. Remove and clean
one direction. rial in relief ball seat in relief valve seats or
piston of steering gear. replace damaged
parts.
16. No attempt to return a. No positive caster. a. Set caster to speci-
straight ahead from fied degree.
turns/should also be
hard steering com- b. Steering column bind. b. Check and repair U-
plaint. joints and support
bearings.
c. Steering gear mount- c. Shim mounting pads
ing distorted. to correct piston to
bore interference.
Make sure correct
bolt length is used on
the base mount gears.
d. Linkage ball sockets d. Check and repair or
seized or binding. replace.
e. King pins seized or e. Repair or replace.
binding.
f. Oil flow rate incorrect. f. Check and correct
supply pump.
17. Darting, wandering, a. Oil flow too high. a. Supply pump not to
oversteering. specifications.
b. Air trapped in steering b. Bleed system.
gear.
c. Looseness, worn front c. Check and repair as
end parts. required.
d. Front end alignment d. Align front end -
not correct. Caster.
e. Overloading. e. Reduce loads.
ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ
13-15
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iV A periodic functional check of the power steering system will generally be adequate to
ensure satisfactory service.
1. Check all fittings for leakage. Accumulation of moist, black dirt is a good indica-
tion of leakage
2. Turn the steering wheel through the full range with the engine running at both idle
and full throttle. Do this with the machine stationary and moving. Note any speed
irregularities and sticky sensation. This may indicate dirt in the fluid. If the steering
wheel continues to rotate when started and released, a condition known as motoring
exists. This may also indicate dirt in the fluid.
13-16
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3. Ensure the system has adequate power. If there is an indication of hard steering, this
can be caused by either a reduced oil flow to the control valve or a reduced system
relief pressure. Adequate oil pressure can only be determined by connecting a pres-
sure gauge at the pump outlet port or at the steering gear inlet port. With the engine
running at a medium speed, turn the steering wheel to one end of travel and hold at
the travel limit just long enough to get a pressure reading. Never hold the system
relief pressure for more than a few seconds at a time. The pressure gauge should
indicate a 2000 psi (13800 kPa) at the pump outlet.
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The steering pump is mounted on and driven by the engine. The pump is located on the
left side of the engine and provides the hydraulic flow necessary to power the steering
gearbox. The pump is a gear type pump and provides a priority flow of approximately 10
gpm (38 lpm) at 2000 psi (13,790 kPa). For additional information on the pump, refer to
Hydraulic Pumps in Section 17 - HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
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The steering gear box is attached to the frame and is located on the left side beneath the
cab. The gearbox provides full-time hydraulic steering and only enough manual effort to
overcome the torsion bar and turn the rotate valve is required. With the engine running,
there is a constant oil flow through the steering gear which provides an instant response
and absorbs road shock. There is mechanical back-up steering so that the vehicle can be
steered to the side of the road in the event of hydraulic pressure loss.
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,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines from the steering gearbox. Cap or plug all
openings.
2. Remove the steering shaft from the steering gearbox input shaft.
3. Remove the cotter pin and slotted nut securing the drag link vertical socket to the
pitman arm.
a. Using a punch and hammer, bend the retainer tab(s) out of the pitman arm
retainer nut.
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b. Using an allen head socket, remove the retainer nut, friction washer, and
retainer tab washer.
c. Using a 3-jaw puller, remove the pitman arm from the gearbox shaft.
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5. Support the weight of the gearbox. Remove the eight bolts and hardened washers
which secure the gearbox to the frame and remove the gearbox.
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1. Prior to installation, wind the relief plungers located at both ends of the gearbox
until they bottom out. Do not remove or wind out the plungers to a depth of less
than 4 mm (0.16 in). Reference the figure titled Setting Relief Plungers.
2. Position the gear box on the mounting and secure with eight bolts and hardened
washers. Apply Loctite #242 to the gear box mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 306
Nm (225 ft-lbs).
3. Turn the input shaft on the gearbox in one direction until it bottoms out.
4. Turn the input shaft in the opposite direction while counting the number of turns
until it bottoms out.
5. Divide the number of turns by two, then turn the input shaft back that number of
turns to center the steering gearbox output shaft.
6. After centering the steering gearbox output shaft, locate the pitman arm on the out-
put shaft by aligning the timing marks (arrow on shaft and letter ‘B’ on pitman
arm).
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7. Install the retainer nut, friction washer and tab washer onto the gear box shaft and
secure the pitman arm. Torque the nut to 613 Nm (450 ft-lbs).
8. After specified torque is reached, continue to torque until the notches in the retainer
nut are aligned with the next bend tab of the tab washer. Bend two opposing tabs of
the washer into the notches of the retainer nut.
13-18
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9. Attach the steering column to the steering gearbox input shaft.
10. Connect the drag link vertical socket to the pitman arm using a slotted nut. Torque
the nut to 136 to 170 Nm (100 to 125 ft-lb). Tighten the nut to the next cotter pin
hole and install the cotter pin.
11. Connect the hydraulic lines to the steering gearbox as tagged during removal.
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The steer cylinders are double acting hydraulic cylinders and are controlled by a steering
control valve located in the steering gearbox. The barrel of each cylinder is attached to
the carrier frame. The cylinder shaft is attached to a steering arm on the axle spindle. the
hydraulic oil entering one end or other of the cylinder pushes or pulls the tie rod to turn
the wheels left or right.
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,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines to the cylinder. Cap or plug all lines and
openings.
2. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and the retaining nut from each end of the cylinder.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the cylinder in position and secure it with the attaching nut and washers.
Torque the nut 136 to 170 Nm (100 to 125 ft-lbs). Tighten the nut to the nearest cot-
ter pin hole and install the cotter pin. Add additional washers as necessary to ensure
proper seating of cotter pin in nut.
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Tires are designed to operate with a certain sidewall deflection or bulge. Correct air pres-
sure ensures proper deflection which ensure proper traction, flotation, support of load,
and prevents excessive flexing of the tire. Over inflation increases rim stresses, which
results in lower rim life.
Refer to and adhere to the inflation pressures on the Tire inflation decal on the crane.
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1. Position the wheel assembly on the mounting studs. Install the lug nuts and tighten
them until they are just snug, rotating the wheel so the nut being tightened is in the
top position.
2. Ensure the wheel assembly is positioned properly on the hub. Tighten the lug nuts
in the sequence shown to a preliminary torque of 37 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
3. Torque the lug nuts 678 to 745 Nm (500 to 550 ft-lb) in the sequence shown in the
figure titled Lug Nut Torquing Sequence.
Maintain proper torque on wheel lugs and check for proper wheel mounting. Retorque
the lug nuts 80 to 160 km (50 to 100 mi) after the wheels are removed and reinstalled.
This will reseat the lug nuts. Check the torque every 800 km (500 mi) thereafter. An
alternative to retorquing after 80 km (50 mi) is to run the machine in large figure 8’s six
or seven times and then retorque the lug nuts.
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The rear axles have single reduction differentials. The differentials have hypoid drive pin-
ions, ring gear sets, and bevel gears. A straight roller bearing is mounted on the head of the
drive pinion and all other bearings are tapered roller bearings. If equipped with a differential
lock, the differential has the same gears and bearings as the standard differential. An air actu-
ated shift collar moves toward the center of the differential and when the splines of the shift
collar and axle shafts are meshed the differential is locked.
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The rear axle suspension uses air bags with walking beams. The air bags along with shock
absorbers are mounted on saddle assemblies above the walking beams. They provide for
cushioning of road shock. The saddle assemblies are connected at the front by pivot blocks to
carrier mounted brackets. The air bags and shock absorbers are bolted to the rear of the sad-
dle assemblies and to carrier mounted brackets. A walking beam center is attached to each
saddle assembly with the ends attached to each rear axle.
Rubber bushings in the walking beam centers and ends, and torque rod ends, restrict exces-
sive movement but allows enough movement to relieve stresses on metal parts. The rubber
joints allow a certain amount of in and out axle movement which permits each axle to follow
its own natural course more closely through turns. Once a straight line is resumed, the bush-
ings square off the tandem so that the leading tires set the tracking pattern. Torque rods along
with the walking beam creates a parallelogram style linkage that assure positive axle align-
ment.
Air for the suspension system is controlled by a control valve on the side console in the car-
rier cab and by two height control valves mounted on each side of the frame by the air bags.
Each height control valve is mechanically actuated by a control lever attached to its respec-
tive saddle assembly. The valve controls the amount of air in each set of air bags thus control-
ling the height of the frame. To deflate the entire air suspension system (front and rear),
position the SUSPENSION control valve on the carrier cab side panel to DEFLATE. This
causes the four height control valves to shift and dump all air from the suspension air bags.
Four pressure switches sense the air pressure in each set of air bags. Low air pressure in any
of the four sets of air bags will trip the respective pressure switch to illuminate the
DEFLATED indicator on the side console.
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Proper preventive maintenance will help control repair costs and downtime. If a major over-
haul is required, remove the tandem suspension and axle assemblies from the carrier. How-
ever, torque rods, air bags, shock absorbers, walking beams, and other components can be
removed separately as required with the axles remaining on the carrier. Refer to the LUBRI-
CATION section for specified lubrication intervals. Check the torque on all bolts at least once
a year.
%HDP&HQWHU&DS)DV Periodically check the bolts on the saddle cap to prevent wear of the beam center bushing
WHQHUV into the saddle assembly. Check bolt torque. Torque should be 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 372
Nm).
%HDP(QG&RQQHF Every 10,000 mi (16,090 km) check the torque of the beam end bolts. Torque 450 to 600 ft-lb
WLRQVDQG%XVKLQJV (610 to 813 Nm). Jack up under each beam end and check for movement of the rubber end
bushing. Worn bushings will allow movement and the bushings should be replaced. Periodi-
cally inspect the beam for a lowering in the hanger and distorted or frayed rubber. A gap on
each side of the visible rubber at the lower end of the end bushing is normal because the end
bushing are in compression.
6DGGOH$VVHPEO\(QG Periodically check the bolt torque on the saddle assembly end caps. Torque should be 225 to
&DS)DVWHQHUV 275 ft-lb (305 to 372 Nm).
%HDP&HQWHU%XVKLQJV The beam center bushings control lateral movement of the axles during cornering. Normal
wear is evidenced by rubber shredding from each end of the bushing. Worn bushings result in
increased lateral movement on turns, causing the inside walls of the tires to rub on the sus-
pension saddle assemblies during turns. Replace the bushings before serious tire damage
results.
%HDP&HQWHU&URVV The center cross tube connects the two walking beams and maintains axle alignment in turns.
7XEH Inspect the cross tube for damage and, if bent, it must be replaced. A bent tube will result in
axle misalignment and cause abnormal tire wear.
$LU%DJV Check for wear or road damage. Check for air leaks. Check tightness of nuts and bolts.
Torque to 30 ft-lb (41 Nm).
+HLJKW&RQWURO9DOYHV Check valve, fittings, and air lines for leaks. Check actuating linkage for bent or damaged
condition.
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1. Raise the crane on outriggers until the weight is off the tires and place jack stands under
the carrier frame.
3. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies from both sides of the axles.
4. Place an adequate lifting/supporting device under the axles and suspension system.
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5. Tag and disconnect the air lines to the four brake chambers and the four air bags.
Remove the fittings from the air bag connections. Cap all hoses and openings.
7. Remove the bolts, hardened washers, and nuts (lateral torque rod only) securing each of
the torque rods to the carrier frame.
8. Remove the hardware securing the linage rod of each height control valve to its respec-
tive saddle assembly.
9. Remove the nut, lockwasher, and two washers securing each shock absorber to the car-
rier frame.
10. With the axles and suspension fully supported, remove the two nuts and washers secur-
ing each of the four air bags to the carrier frame brackets.
11. Remove the two bolts and washers securing each of the four saddle assemblies cap
blocks to the carrier frame brackets.
12. Remove the axles and suspension assembly from under the carrier.
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Disassemble the axle and suspension assembly as necessary using the following procedures.
2. Remove the bolts, hardened washers, and nuts securing each fore and aft torque rod to
the axle brackets. Remove the torque rod(s).
3. Remove the nut securing each lateral torque rod to the axle brackets. Remove the torque
rod(s).
4. Remove each shock absorber from the suspension saddle assembly by removing the nut
and two washers securing each. Remove the shock absorber(s).
5. Remove each axle from the walking beams by removing the two bolts, washers, and
nuts securing each end of the axle to the walking beam end bushings. Remove the
axle(s).
6. Remove the saddle assemblies from the walking beams by removing two bolts and
washers from each pivot block cap. Remove the caps. Remove the saddle assemblies
and the trunnion tube from the walking beams.
6. Remove each air bag from the saddle assembly by removing the bolt and lockwasher.
Remove the air bag(s).
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As necessary, assemble the axle and suspension assembly using the following procedures.
1. Position the air bag(s) on the saddle assembly and secure each with a bolt and lock-
washer.
2. Position the trunnion tube through the center bushing on each walking beam. Position
each saddle assembly over the center bushing and secure with the pivot block cap and
two bolts and washers. Torque the bolts 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 373 Nm).
3. Position the axle(s) under the walking beams aligning the axle brackets with the bar end
bushings on the walking beams. Secure each end with two bolts, washers, and nuts.
Torque the bolts 450 to 600 ft-lb (610 to 814 Nm).
4. Position the shock absorber(s) on the saddle assembly and secure each with a nut and
two washers. Torque the nuts 225 to 275 ft-lb (305 to 373 Nm).
5. Position the fore and aft torque rods in the axle brackets and secure each with two bolts,
hardened washers, and nuts. Place two additional hardened washers on each side
between torque rod and bracket. Torque the nuts 567 to 615 ft-lb (769 to 834 Nm).
6. Position the lateral torque rods in the axle brackets and secure each with a nut and cotter
pin. Torque the nuts 175 to 225 ft-lb (237 to 305 Nm).
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14. Retract the outriggers and check the axles for proper operation.
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Tires are designed to operate with a certain sidewall deflection or bulge. Correct air pressures
ensures proper deflection which, in turn ensures proper traction, flotation, support of load
and prevents excessive flexing of the tire. Over inflation increases rim stresses which results
in lower rim life.
Inflate tires to the pressure specified on the tire inflation decal on the crane.
Unmatched tires on either tandems will cause wear, scuffing, and possible damage to drive
units. It is recommended that tires be matched to within 0.13 in (3.175 mm) of the same roll-
ing radius and 0.75 in (19.0 mm) of the same rolling circumference.
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In addition to matching individual tire rolling radii and circumference, match the total tire
tire circumference of one driving axle should match the other driving axle.The result will be
satisfactory axle lubricant temperatures.
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4. Tighten the lug nuts to a preliminary torque of 50 ft-lbs (68 Nm) in the sequence as
shown in the figure titled Lug Nut Torquing Sequence.
5. Torque the lug nuts 500 to 550 ft-lbs (678 to 746 Nm) in the sequence as shown in the
figure titled Lug Nut Torquing Sequence.
Retorque lug nuts 50 to 100 mi (80 to 160 km) after the wheels are removed and reinstalled.
Check the torque every 500 mi (804 km) thereafter.
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The front brakes are air actuated brakes which are cam operated. Each brake shoe employes two
19 mm (0.75 in) tapered block liners. The shoes are fabricated of steel, mounted on individual
anchor pins, and supported by open type spiders. Automatic slack adjusters maintain the proper
adjustment for the pushrod stroke and lining-to-drum clearance. The cam is actuated by the air
chamber.
The rear brakes are air actuated brakes which are cam operated. Each brake shoe employes two
19 mm (0.75 in) liners. The shoes are fabricated of steel, mounted on individual anchor pins,
and supported by open type spiders. Automatic slack adjusters maintain proper adjustment of
the pushrod stroke and lining-to-drum clearance. The brake actuator is a conventional chamber
with an emergency (parking) brake mechanism.
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Most brake linings no longer contain asbestos fibers. These fibers may be glass, mineral wool,
aramid, ceramic, or carbon. Current regulations do not cover non-asbestos fibers. Medical
experts do not agree about the possible long term risks of working with and breathing non-
asbestos fibers. But some experts think that long term exposure to some non-asbestos fibers
could cause pneumoconiosis, fibrosis, and cancer. Therefore, it is recommended that workers
use caution to avoid dust when working on brakes.
1. Whenever possible, work on brakes in a separate area away from other operations.
2. Always wear a respirator approved by NIOSH or MSHA during all brake service proce-
dures. Wear the respirator from removal of the wheels through assembly.
3. NEVER use compressed air or dry brushing to clean brake parts or assemblies. OSHA rec-
ommends that you use cylinders that enclose the brake. These cylinders have vacuums with
high efficiency (HEPA) filters and workmans’ arm sleeves. If such equipment is not avail-
able, carefully clean parts and assemblies in the open air.
4. Clean brake parts and assemblies in the open air. During disassembly, carefully place all
parts on the floor to avoid getting dust into the air. Use an industrial vacuum cleaner with a
HEPA filter system to clean dust from the brake drums backing plates and other brake
parts. After using the vacuum, remove any remaining dust with a rag soaked in water and
wrung until nearly dry.
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6. Cleaning the work area. NEVER use compressed air or dry sweeping to clean the work
area. Use an industrial vacuum with a HEPA filter and rags soaked in water and wrung
until nearly dry. Used rags should be disposed of with care to avoid getting dust into the air.
Use an approved respirator when emptying vacuum cleaners and handling used rags.
7. Worker clean-up. Workers should wash their hands before eating or drinking. Working
clothes should not be worn home. They should be vacuumed after use an then should be
laundered separately, without shaking, to prevent fiber dust from getting into the air.
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The front brakes are air actuated and cam operated. The brake shoes employ 19 mm (0.75 in)
tapered block liners. The shoes are fabricated of steel and mounted on individual anchor pins
which are supported by cast spiders. Automatic slack adjusters maintain proper pushrod stroke
and lining-to-drum clearance during normal service.
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1. Brakes are poor or do a. Insufficient air pres- a. Check for the correct
not apply. sure. pressure at the com-
pressor and brake air
chambers.
b. Restriction or leak in b. Check all lines,
lines, valves, etc. valves, etc., for leaks
or restrictions.
c. Brakes out of adjust- c. Adjust the brakes.
ment.
d. Leaking diaphragm. d. Replace the dia-
phragm.
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2. Raise the carrier so that the front wheels are off the ground.
3. Back off the automatic slack adjuster until the brake shoes are clear of the drum.
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5. Rock the drum and pull outward until the outer wheel bearing can be removed.
15-3
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6. To remove the drum, pull outboard while rocking from side to side.
7. Pry the roller retainer loops out of the shoe web holes. Pivot the roller retainer to swing the
loops clear of shoe webs.
Shoe Roller
Web Retainer
Disengage
retainer loops
from shoe web.
Pivot retainer to
swing loops clear of
shoe web.
8. With a large screwdriver or lever, lift the upper shoe and remove the roller and retainer as a
unit.
15-4
706(%5$.(6
10. If springs are connected by spring post (horse collar), push cam end of upper shoe toward
the cam. Otherwise push cam end of both shoes toward cam. With a spring removal tool,
hook onto the spring and pry to unhook the upper shoe return spring. Remove the spring
and discard.
11. Do the same for the lower return spring
12. Remove the shoes from the axle.
13. Remove the slack adjuster. Reference Slack Adjuster Removal this Section.
14. Remove the camshaft by grasping the camshaft head and pulling outboard.
15. Remove the bolts attaching the air chamber bracket to the spider and pull it away from the
spider.
15-5
%5$.(6706(
16. Remove spider-to-axle attaching nuts and bolts and remove the spider.
Remove all
Mounting Bolts
and Nuts
Spider
17. Remove screws and retaining clip securing dust shield to spider and remove dust shield.
Remove all
four
Dust Shield
2;,'$7,21 $1' ',57 21 7+( 2876,'( 2) %5$.( '580 $&76 $1
,168/$725 $1' 0$< +,1'(5 +($7 ',66,3$7,21 5(029( :,7+ $
:,5(%586+
1. Wire brush all parts exposed to mud, road dirt, and salt, to include the spider, air chamber
bracket, dust shield, and exterior of drum.
2. Following the recommendations at the beginning of this section, use a vacuum cleaner to
remove brake dust from drums. Wipe interior of drums with a greaseless solvent to remove
any spilled oil.
3. Clean all other brake parts thoroughly with a suitable shop solvent. Wipe dry with a clean,
lint-free cloth.
15-6
706(%5$.(6
ëiVÌ 1. Check drum for cracks, glazing, grooving, run-out and out-of-round. Cracked drums must
be replaced. Drums which are glazed, grooved, out-of-round, etc., may be returned to ser-
vice if they can be reworked without exceeding the manufacture’s specifications.
'212786('580,),7(;&(('60$;,080',$0(7(525581287
63(&,),&$7,216
2. Inspect the shoes for bent or cracked webs or table, broken welds, loose rivets, or elongated
rivet holes. Replace shoes if any are found.
3. Check the anchor pin and cam roller contact areas in the shoe webs for elongation or wear.
Replace the shoe if the diameter of the roller end exceeds 0.835 in (21.33 mm) or the diam-
eter of the anchor pin end exceeds 1.4 in (35.56 mm).
4. Check the linings and replace the shoes if contaminated, cracked, or worn to less than
0.25 in (6.35 mm) thickness at any point.
5. Inspect the spider for cracks around mounting bolt holes, cam area, or anchor pin and
replace if cracked.
6. Check the anchor pin and replace if loose or grooved more than 0.031 in (0.787 mm) below
original surface.
15-7
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15-8
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Move Camshaft
and note maximum
deflection.
7. Each time the brake shoes are removed, check camshaft radial play as outlined below:
a. Mount a dial indicator the with plunger on the cam head at the roller contact area.
c. Move the cam head up and down and note the maximum reading.
d. If play exceeds 0.035 in (0.9 mm), rebush the air chamber bracket. Refer to Repair/
Replacement in this Section.
e. After rebushing, recheck radial play. Replace the camshaft if play is still excessive.
8. Check spline the end of the camshaft for cracks and worn or deformed splines. Replace as
necessary.
9. Check the camshaft bushing journals for wear or corrosion. If the camshaft shows visible
wear or if roughness is felt in the journal, replace the camshaft.
10. Check the camshaft head for brineling, cracking or flat spots. Replace the camshaft if a
ridge can be felt between the worn areas and surface of the cam head.
7KHFDPVKDIWEXVKLQJVDQGVHDOVDUHPRXQWHGLQWKHDLUFKDPEHUEUDFNHW
DVVHPEO\
11. Check the camshaft bushings for deterioration or wear. The inner surface must be smooth.
Replace the bushing if surface is rough or abrasive.
12. Check the grease seals and replace if nicked, cut, or distorted.
13. Check the air chamber bracket for a bent, broken, or cracked arm and welds. Replace as
necessary.
14. Check the air chamber bracket mounting studs for looseness, damaged threads, or bent
studs. Replace as necessary.
15-9
%5$.(6706(
15. Check the air chamber for leaks, cracked housing, bent pushrod, loose clamp ring, clogged
vent holes, or loose air fittings. Repair or replace as necessary.
16. If the air chamber is replaced or repaired, check the distance from the clevis pin hole cen-
terline to the air chamber face. Reference Automatic Slack Adjuster in this Section for
adjustment.
17. If a new air chamber is installed, ensure that the cutoff pushrod does not project too far into
the clevis. Minimum clearance from the clevis centerline to pushrod end is 0.875 in (22.2
mm).
18. Check air chamber clevis pin for cracks and wear.
19. Check the automatic slack adjuster. Reference automatic Slack Adjuster this Section.
,i«>ÀÉ,i«>Vi Routinely replace lower cost items such as springs, seals, bushings, and heavily worn parts.
iÌ Damage caused by failure of worn parts is much more expensive than the cost of the parts.
2. Drive out the old bushing and grease seal with a suitable driver.
3. Clean and inspect the air chamber bracket. Reference Inspection in this subsection.
4. Install the new bushings in the air chamber bracket with a piloted driver. Both bushings are
nonmetallic and are labeled on one end. Install them with the labeled ends facing each
other. The cam head end is recessed 0.281 in (7.1 mm) and the slack adjuster end is
recessed 0.688 in (17.5 mm) from the ends of the tube.
15-10
706(%5$.(6
6($/6 0867 %( ,167$//(' :,7+ 7+( /,3 6,'( 635,1* 6,'( 2)
%27+ 6($/6 )$&,1* 72:$5' 7+( 6/$&. $'-867(5 (1' 2) 7+(
%5$&.(7 ,03523(5/< 25,(17(' 6($/6 0$< $//2: *5($6( 72
(;,7 7+( &$06+$)7 +($' (1' 2) $,5 &+$0%(5 %5$&.(7 $1'
&217$0,1$7(/,1,1*0$7(5,$/
15-11
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5. Install new grease seals with a piloted driver so the seals are flush with the end of the air
chamber bracket tube.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Position the spider on the axle flange and install attaching bolts and nuts. Place hardened
washers under the bolt head.
2. Position the dust shield against the spider. Install all attaching screws finger tight. Torque
screws 150 to 180 in-lbs (16.9 to 20.3 Nm).
3. Align the air chamber bracket with the holes on the spider and secure with the bolts and
lock washers. Torque 65 to 85 ft-lbs (88 to 115 Nm).
a. Check for correct camshaft by rotating the camshaft in the direction of the air chamber
push rod extension. The roller should start to ride up on the convex side of the cam
head.
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0867%()5((2)2,/*5($6($1'27+(5&217$0,1$76)25()),
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b. Apply a thin film of chassis grease on the inside of the camshaft bushing, seals, and
spline area.
c. Place the cam head washer on the camshaft under the cam head with the cast spider
arrow pointing toward the center of the spider.
5. Install the slack adjuster. Reference Slack Adjuster Installation in this section.
a. Lubricate the shoe roller recess with chassis grease. Do not get grease on the cam head
surface.
b. Hook the ends of the new retainer springs into the holes on both shoe webs with the
hooks pointing out.
c. Position the upper and lower shoes around the anchor pin. Install a new shoe return
spring.
e. Stretch the return spring and insert the roller and retainer on the lower shoe web.
f. Position the roller assembly in the recess. Squeeze the loops of the retainer and rotate
to snap loops into the web holes. Make sure that both loops are engaged in the web
holes.
15-12
706(%5$.(6
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,
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The automatic slack adjuster compensates for normal wear in the brake shoe linings by main-
taining a nominal clearance between the lining and drum.
When the brake is applied, the slack adjuster’s rotation moves the shoes and linings into contact
with the brake drum. This movement also lifts the actuation rod through a pre-set, free travel
dimension that is normal lining to drum clearance. Continuing the brake application rotates a
one-way clutch in its over riding mode, and at the same time causes the large coil spring to
deflect at a specific force. This spring deflection allows the worm to move axially. The clutch
movement is restricted by a machine step. This movement fully disengages the drive clutch
from the worm and prevents unwanted brake adjustment from occurring.
When the is brake released, the large coil spring resumes its original load and position, which
allows the drive clutch to re-engage. Simultaneous to drive clutch re-engagement, if any lining
wear has occurred, the actuation rod rotates the one way adjuster clutch an amount proportional
to lining wear. This motion rotates the worm, worm wheel, and the S-cam shaft resulting in
adjustment of the brakes.
>Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from the push rod clevis.
2. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from the actuator rod.
3. Turn the adjusting shaft hex until the slack adjuster is clear of the air chamber pushrod cle-
vis.
4. Remove the snap ring and outer shim washer(s) from the camshaft.
15-13
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15-14
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727+(6/$&.$'-867(5$1'25&$06+$)763/,1(60$<5(68/7
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2. Install the inner washer on the camshaft. The inner washer has a larger hole.
3. Apply anitseize type lubricant to the camshaft splines. Install the slack adjuster onto the
camshaft with the adjusting shaft hex pointing away from the air brake chamber. Secure
with outer shim washer(s) and snap ring.
4. Rotate the adjusting shaft hex nut clockwise until the slack adjuster arm and actuator rod
holes line up with the clevis holes.
6. Adjust the brakes by turning the adjusting shaft hex clockwise until the lining contacts the
drum. Then rotate the adjusting shaft hex counterclockwise 1/2 turn.
iÃVÀ«Ì
À>ià The rear brakes are air actuated and cam operated. Each shoe, which is steel fabricated, employs
two 0.75 in (19 mm) tapered block liners. The shoes are mounted on individual anchor pins and
supported by open type spiders. Automatic slack adjusters maintain proper adjustment of the
push rod stroke and lining the drum clearance.
The brake actuator is a conventional brake air chamber with an emergency (parking) brake
spring mechanism incorporated into the air brake chamber. The brake chamber has an alumi-
num body and pressure plate with a steel nonpressure plate that houses a service/emergency dia-
phragm, piston, and two springs.
15-15
%5$.(6706(
-«À}Ê À>iÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ The spring brake actuator, which is the upper part of the air brake chamber, is spring applied
VÌÕ>ÌÀ and air released. When an air pressure of 70 psi (482 kPa) or more is applied against the pis-
ton, the spring is compressed and braking is done with the service brakes. When the air pres-
sure is removed, the spring pushes against the piston and diaphragm plate to apply the brake.
Internal venting works in conjunction with a one-way breather cap that allows system air to
fill the vacuum behind the piston to keep out atmospheric air and contamination. The unit is
equipped with a manual caging bolt to permit safe handling and service work.
/
/ÀÕLiÃ
Ì}Ê
6<03720 352%$%/(&$86( 62/87,21
1. Brakes are poor or a. Insufficient air pressure. a. Check for correct pres-
do not apply. sure at compressor and
brake chambers.
15-16
706(%5$.(6
-«À}Ê À>iÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ The upper part of the brake air chamber containing the large spring is not serviceable; however,
VÌÕ>ÌÀ the lower part of the assembly is serviceable.
15-17
%5$.(6706(
>Õ>ÞÊ
>}}ÊÊÊÊ 1. Remove the caging bolt and washer from its storage hole on the outside of the brake cham-
Ì
iÊ-«À}Ê À>i ber.
2. Remove the dust cap from the bolt hole in the top of the chamber.
3. Insert the head of the caging bolt through the opening and turn bolt 1/4 turn clockwise.
4. Thread the nut and washer on the bolt and turn the nut clockwise about 18 to 21 turns. Air
pressure can be applied to the spring brake chamber through the parking port to compress
the spring while the nut is being tightened.
5. Do not force the nut beyond its normal stop. A torque of 30 ft-lbs (40.6 Nm) is the maxi-
mum that should be required. Reverse the procedure to uncage the spring.
5HPRYDO
Torque Rod
Axle #3
Drive Shaft
Brake Air
Chamber Mounting
Bracket
Differential Stabilizer
Beam
&$*( 7+( 635,1* %5$.( %()25( 5(029$/ 2) $,5 %5$.( &+$0
%(5
2. Tag, remove, and cap the air lines to the brake air chamber.
4. Mark the position of the clevis on push rod so that the clevis can be reinstalled in the same
position.
5. Unbolt the air brake chamber from the mounting bracket and remove the air brake cham-
ber.
15-18
706(%5$.(6
'LVDVVHPEO\
Caging Bolt
Spring Brake
Chamber
Caging
Bolt
Stowage
Air Ports
Clamp
Mounting Bolt
Service
Brake
Chamber
Push Rod
1. Remove the clamp securing the service brake chamber to the spring brake chamber.
3. If the push rod needs or spring to be removed, mark the position of the clevis on the push
rod. Remove the clevis and jam nut.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Insert the push rod through the spring and cover.
4. Push the lower cover assembly into the spring brake chamber and secure with the clamp.
15-19
%5$.(6706(
Clamp
Diaphrag
Push Rod
Spring
Shield
Cover
Mounting Nut
Jam Nut
The rear brakes are air actuated and cam operated with two shoes. Each shoe is mounted on sep-
arate anchor pins and has open anchor pin ends for easy removal. There are two shoe retainer
springs in addition to the shoe return springs.
Ã>ÃÃiLiÊÊÊ 1. Raise the crane on outriggers so that the rear wheels are off the ground.
À>iÃ
'2127$77(03772'2$1<7<3(2):25.81'(5$&5$1(7+$7
,66833257('%<21/<7+(2875,**(5625-$&.6
2. Place jack stands under the frame where the wheels are to be removed.
4. Fully release the slack adjuster so that the shoes retract allowing the drums to clear the lin-
ings. To retract the slackadjuster, do the following:
a. Remove the pawl assembly to keep the paw teeth from being damaged.
15-20
706(%5$.(6
b. Turn the manual adjusting nut until the brake shoe is fully retracted.
%UDNH6KRH 1. Push down on the bottom brake shoe and pull on the roller retaining clip to remove the bot-
5HPRYDO tom cam roller.
Cam Roller
and Retainer
Spring.
2. Lift the top shoe and pull on the roller retaining clip and remove the upper cam roller.
3. Lift the bottom shoe to release the tension on the brake return spring and remove the
spring.
Brake
Return
Spring
15-21
%5$.(6706(
4. Rotate the bottom shoe to relieve tension on the retaining springs. Remove the springs and
brake shoes.
Retainer Spring
&OHDQDQG,QVSHFW Clean all polished metal parts such as inner bore, gear, and worm with solvent cleaners.
3DUWV
62/9(17&/($1(56&$1%()/$00$%/(32,621286$1'&$86(
%8516
Use soap and water to clean all nonmetallic parts. Dry all parts with soft clean paper or cloth.
'212786(62/9(17&/($1(56211210(7$/,&3$576
Apply brake lubricant to all parts except the linings and drums to prevent rust.
,QVSHFW3DUWV 1. Check the spider for expanded anchor pin holes and cracks. Replace damaged spiders and
anchor pin bushings.
2. Check the camshaft bracket for broken welds, cracks, and correct alignment.
3. Check anchor pins for corrosion and wear. Replace damaged anchor pins.
4. Check brake shoes for rust expanded rivet holes, broken welds, and correct alignment.
Anchor pin holes must not exceed 1.03 in (26 mm) in diameter. The distance from the cen-
ter of the anchor pin hole to the center of the roller hole must not exceed 12.875 in
(327 mm).
5. Check the camshaft for cracks, wear, and corrosion. Check the cam head, bearing journals,
and splines.
15-22
706(%5$.(6
6. Check the slackadjuster for the gap between the clevis and collar. If the gap exceeds 0.060
in (1.5 mm), replace the clevis. Check the clevis pins and bushing in the slack adjuster arm.
Replace bushing if diameter exceeds 0.65 in (16.6 mm).
7. Rotate the slack adjuster adjusting nut through a 360 degree rotation (about 22 tuns of the
adjusting nut) with a torque wrench. Torque must be less than 25 in-lbs (2.8 Nm) for a new
or rebuilt slack adjuster.
8. Check the brake drums for cracks, severe heat checking, heat spotting, scoring, pitting, and
distortion.
9. Measure the inside diameter of the drum in several locations and replace if diameter
exceeds manufacturers specifications.
$VVHPEOH%UDNHV Each time the brakes are relined, the following parts should also be replaced.
• Springs
• Rollers
• Anchor Pins
• Clevis Pins
• Camshaft Seals
&DPVKDIW,QVWDOOD 1. Check all spider bolts for the correct torque as shown below.
WLRQ
%ROW6L]H 1P )W/E
7/16” -20 85 -102 60 -75
1/2” -20 115 -156 85 -115
9/16” -18 176 -224 130 -165
1/8” -18 244 -312 180 -230
2. Install new camshaft seals and, if required, bushings in both the spider and camshaft
bracket. Use a seal driver to install the bushings.
3. If the camshaft bracket was removed, install the gasket and bracket to the spider. Torque to:
,QVWDOOERWKVHDOVZLWKOLSVWRZDUGVODFNDGMXVWHU
Seal Lip
Seal Lip
Camshaft
Bracket
Spider
4. Put the cam head thrust washer on the camshaft. Apply O-617-A or B chassis grease to the
camshaft bushings or needle bearings and to the camshaft journals. Install the camshaft
through the spider and bracket so that the camshaft turns freely.
%UDNH6KRH,QVWDOOD 1. Put the upper brake shoe in position on the top anchor pin. Hold the lower shoe on the bot-
WLRQ tom anchor pin and install the two new retainer springs.
2. Rotate the lower brake shoe forward and install a new brake shoe return spring.
15-24
706(%5$.(6
Webs
Squeeze
3. Pull each shoe away from the cam to permit enough space to install the cam rollers and
retainers. Press the ears of the retainer together to permit the retainer to fit between the
brake shoe webs.
4. Push the retainer into the brake shoe until its ears lock into the holes in the shoe webs.
Web Hole
Push
5. Install the slack adjuster and adjust brakes. Refer to following Sub-Section - Slack
Adjuster.
15-25
%5$.(6706(
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15-26
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The air system provides the air supply to operate the service brakes, parking brakes, air suspen-
sion system, inter-axle and cross axle differential locks, tire inflation option, and other air acces-
sories such as engine fan clutch valve and V6 turbo controller.
The air system is pressurized by an engine-mounted air compressor and the pressurized air is
stored in six air reservoirs underneath the frame. The air system components are operated by the
air that is stored in these reservoirs.
An air dryer and governor is mounted under the center front decking behind the front bumper. It
is connected between the outlet of the compressor and the front primary supply reservoir. Oil,
water, and contaminates are removed from the air during the compression cycle and when the
governor is unloading, the contaminates are removed from the dryer.
The air system is split into a primary system and a secondary system. The systems are isolated
from each other so that in the event of a failure one system air is retained in the other system. By
means of pressure protection valves, check valves, and spring brake valves, a reserve of air pres-
sure remains to operate the spring brakes through normal use of the brake pedal. Any unusual
loss of pressure should be investigated immediately and corrected, so as to restore the full
backup capability of the system.
Through reciprocating motion, the piston in the compressor compresses air with every cycle.
The compressed air passes through the air dryer and onto the primary front supply reservoir
(tank #1). The primary front supply reservoir helps cool the heated air and contains an auto-
matic drain valve to vent off condensed water. A 1030 kPa (150 psi) safety valve is installed on
the supply reservoir for protection from excess pressure. The pressurized air flows to the pri-
mary rear service reservoirs (tanks #4 and #5) and secondary service reservoirs (tanks #2 and
#3) from the primary front supply reservoir. Both primary and secondary air reservoirs provide
the supply for the dual brake and spring brake control valves. Air to the service brakes on axles
#2, #3, and #4 is supplied by both primary rear service reservoirs. The secondary reservoirs pro-
vide the supply for the service brakes on axle #1. The auxiliary air reservoir provides the air
supply to operate all other air components.
The three pressure protection valves are set at 590 kPa (85 psi) and are basically check valves.
They open at 70 to 100 kPa (10 to 15 psi) above their closing pressure. These valves protect a
circuit if a line is ruptured to ensure a priority supply to the brakes.
The compressor, which is mounted on and driven by the engine, is regulated by an air governor
which vents the compressor when a pressure of 830 kPa (120 psi) is sensed in the air system.
When pressure drops to 690 kPa (100 psi), the governor will allow the compressor to supply the
air system to maintain proper system pressure.
16-1
16-2
1. Air Reservoir
2. Pressure Protection Valve
3. Air Reservoir
4. Supply Dump Valve
5. Quick Release Valve
6. Spring Brake Control Valve
7. Relay Valve
8. Reservoir
9. Double Check Valve
10. Air Dryer
11. Auto Drain Valve
12. Governor
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The top priority of the air system is to provide braking. Each rear wheel has a spring brake
chamber and a service brake chamber. The spring brake is applied by a spring and released by
pressurized air. The spring brakes on all four rear wheels are released by the parking brake
push-pull knob on the right hand console in the cab. Pushing in on the parking brake causes air
pressure to enter the spring brake chamber on each wheel and compress the spring, releasing the
brakes. At least 280 kPa (40 psi) is required to keep the parking brake valve engaged. If supply
pressure to the valve drops below 280 kPa (40 psi), the valve will release, applying the brakes.
The service brakes are applied by air pressure. Depressing the foot brake pedal on the cab floor
causes pressurized air to enter the service brake chamber on each wheel and apply the brakes. In
the event of a loss of supply pressure to the service brakes, the spring brake valve will allow the
operator to release or bleed off the air pressure in the spring brake chamber by depressing the
foot brake pedal to apply the brakes.
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If a leak is suspected, shut off the engine and note the air pressure reading of both circuits.
Acceptable air pressure loss is 40 kPa (6 psi) within 30 minutes. A hard to detect leak can be
found by wetting the suspected area with a soap solution and observing for bubbles.
16-4
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1. Park the crane on a firm level surface and apply the parking brakes.
2. Position the SUSPENSION control valve lever to the DEFLATE position to deflate the air
suspension bags. The amber DEFLATE indicator light should illuminate when the pressure
in all air bags drops below 28 ± 14 kPa (4 ± 2 psi).
5. Open the manual drain valves on the main air reservoirs to depressurize both air circuits. If
not already applied, the parking brake will be applied as the system is drained. Ensure the
parking brakes are applied on all rear wheels.
a. The AIR PRESSURE LOW light and warning buzzer should activate immediately.
b. The red (rear\primary) needle on the dual air gage should rise to about 590 kPa (85 psi)
at which time the green (front/secondary) needle will begin to rise.
c. The warning buzzer and light will stay on until both gauges show 410 to 480 kPa (60
to 70 psi).
e. Check that the outriggers cannot be operated with the parking brakes released.
f. Continue charging the system until the air dryer cycles and the compressor shuts off.
All system gauges should read 830 ± 70 kPa (120 ± 10 psi).
7. Turn off the engine and check that all wheels turn freely.
8. The air pressure should remain constant with no leaks. Any air pressure drop should be no
more than 7 kPa (1 psi) per minute.
a. Check for a drop in air pressure and then an equalization in pressure with no loss (less
than 14 kPa (2 psi) per minute).
c. Release the service brakes and check that the reservoir pressure is maintained.
11. With the engine running, simulate a full air leak in the rear air system by opening the man-
ual drain valve on the rear (primary) air reservoir.
a. The AIR PRESSURE LOW warning light and buzzer should come on when the pres-
sure in the primary circuit drops below 517 ± 34 kPa (75 ± 5 psi).
b. Air pressure in the front (secondary) system should not drop below 590 ± 34 kPa (85 ±
5 psi).
12. With the park brakes released, check that all wheels turn freely.
a. The front axle service brakes and the rear axles spring brakes should be applied and the
brake lights on the rear of the carrier should be on.
14. Close the drain cock on the rear (primary) reservoir and recharge the air system.
15. Simulate a full air leak in the front air system by opening the drain valve on the front (sec-
ondary) reservoir.
a. The AIR PRESSURE LOW light and warning buzzer will come on when the second-
ary air pressure drops below 517 ± 34 kPa (75 ± 5 psi).
b. The pressure in the secondary circuit should not drop below 590 ±34 kPa (85 ±5 psi).
a. The rear front axle and the rear axles service brakes should be applied and the brake
lights on the rear of the carrier should be on.
b. Release the service brakes and check that all wheels turn freely.
20. With the engines running and the PARK BRAKES APPLIED, position the SUSPENSION
control valve lever to the INFLATE position to inflate the air suspension bags. The amber
DEFLATE indicator light should go out when the pressure in the air bags goes above 28 ±
14 kPa (4 ± 2 psi).
16-6
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21. Continue charging the system until the air dryer cycles and the compressor shuts off. All
system gauges should read 830 ± 70 kPa (120 ± 10 psi).
22. Check that all suspension air bags are properly inflated. The top surface of each air bag
saddle should be parallel with the bottom horizontal surface of the carrier frame.
16-7
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«ÀiÃÃÀ The air compressor is mounted on and driven by the engine. It provides the source of com-
pressed air for the operation of the air system components. It is controlled (cycled on and off) by
an air governor. The compressor has a capacity of 0.53 cm/m (18.7 cf/m).
ÀÊÛiÀÀ The air governor is mounted with the air dryer behind the front bumper under the center deck-
ing. The governor senses the system pressure and when pressure reaches 830 kPa (120 psi) the
governor vents the compressor. When pressure drops to 690 kPa (100 psi), the governor signals
the compressor to start charging again.
ÀÊÀÞiÀ
Upper
Bracket
Lower
Control Bracket
Port
End
Cover
Supply
Delivery Port
Port
Female Purge Valve
Connector Housing
Air Dryer
The purpose of the air dryer is to collect and remove solid, liquid, and vapor contaminates from
the air system. Clean dry air increases the life of the air system and reduces cost.
The dryer consists of a desiccant cartridge and die cast aluminum end cover secured to a cylin-
drical steel shell. The end cover contains a check valve, safety valve, three threaded connections
and purge valve housing. The purge valve housing contains the purge valve and turbo charger
cutoff. The turbo charger cutoff prevents loss of engine “turbo” boost pressure during the purge
cycle of the air dryer.
16-8
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,iÃiÀÛÀÃ Six air reservoirs store compressed air for braking and auxiliary air devices. The first reservoir
in the system (front primary supply) also acts as a purge tank to remove additional moisture not
removed by the air dryer. It contains an automatic drain valve. The other five reservoirs have a
manual drain valve actuated by a cable lanyard accessible from the outside of the carrier.
ÜÊ*ÀiÃÃÕÀiÊ`V>The low pressure indicator switches are used to warn the operator of low pressure in the air sys-
ÌÀÊ-ÜÌV
ià tems. One switch is installed in each system and they are electrically connected in parallel to
illuminate the AIR PRESSURE LOW indicator on the front console in the cab. Observe the dual
air pressure gauge to determine which system is low. The switch contacts close when the pres-
sure in the system decreases to 517 kPa (75 psi).
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The stop light switches are installed in the ports of the dual brake valve and are used to illumi-
nate the stop lights on the rear of the carrier when the brakes are applied. There is one switch in
each system (primary and secondary) and they are connected electrically in parallel.
ÀÊ*ÀiÃÃÕÀiÊ>Õ}i The dual air pressure gauge is located on the left side of the front console. The gauge is a direct
reading pressure gauge with two indicating pointers, red for the primary system and green for
the secondary system. The gauge has a dual scale calibrated from 100 to 1000 kPa and 0 to 150
psi.
16-9
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Release
Pin
Exhaust
Port
Safety Valve
A safety valve is installed in the primary (front) supply reservoir to protect the air system
against excessive air pressure buildup. The valve consists of a spring loaded ball which exhausts
the system if the pressure rises above 1030 kPa (150 psi). A second safety valve is installed in
the tire inflation circuit and is set at 1207 kPa (175 psi).
ÕÌ>ÌVÊÀ>Ê The automatic drain valve is located in the bottom of the primary (front) supply reservoir and is
6>Ûi designed to collect and eject moisture and contaminates from the reservoir. The valve is oper-
ated by a difference in air pressure between the tank and valve sump cavity. If the pressure in the
tank is greater than the in sump cavity, the inlet valve opens and drains moisture into the sump
cavity. If the sump cavity pressure is greater than the tank pressure, the exhaust valve opens and
expels the moisture to the outside. Both valves are closed when the pressure is equalized.
Inlet
Air Tank Valve
Exhaust
Sump Valve
Manual Drain
Wire
To manually drain the valve, push the wire in the exhaust port up and hold until the valve is
drained. The valve has a die cast aluminum body and cover.
16-10
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Pressure
Regulating
Spring
Outlet
Inlet
There are three pressure protection valves in the air system. The purpose of the pressure protec-
tion valve is to isolate one system from the other by closing at a preset pressure. One valve iso-
lates the primary system from the secondary system, one valve isolates the auxiliary system
from the primary system, and the other isolates the tire inflation system from the primary sys-
tem. The valve is a normally closed valve which can also be referred to as a non-exhausting
sequencing valve. The valve has two ports: a supply port and a delivery port. The closing pres-
sure is 586 kPa (85 psi) and opening pressure is about 100 to 140 kPa (15 to 20 psi) higher than
the closing pressure. The valve is preset to the specified opening and closing pressures.
16-11
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iVÊ6>Ûi There are three double check valves used in the sir system. The double check valve is used when
a function or component is controlled by either of two sources. The higher of the two pressures
is transmitted to the output port.
Delivery
Supply
Shuttle
Valve
Supply
Delivery
,i>ÞÊ6>Ûi The purpose of the three relay valves is to speed up application of the parking and service
brakes. The valve is remote mounted and delivers air to the brakes in response to signals from
the parking and foot brake control valves. One valve controls the front #2 axle service brakes,
one valve controls the rear axle service brakes, and the other valve controls the rear parking
brakes. Air pressure, which controls the valve, enters through the service port to either deliver or
exhaust air pressure from the circuits serviced by the relay valve.
Service Port
Inlet/Exhaust
Valve
Supply
Port
Exhaust Cover
Relay Valve
16-12
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Õ>Ê À>iÊ6>Ûi The dual brake valve is a suspended, pedal operated brake valve which has two separate supply
and delivery circuits. The valve is located under the front console to the right of the steering col-
umn. The valve provides the driver with a graduated control for applying the service brakes or
the parking brakes through the spring brake control valve.
-«À}Ê À>iÊ
The spring brake control valve is located on the right side of the carrier frame. The purpose of
ÌÀÊ6>Ûi the valve is to supply a specific, limited hold off pressure to the spring brakes, and in the event
of loss of primary pressure, to modulate the spring brakes through use of the dual brake valve.
*>ÀÊ À>iÊ
ÌÀÊ The park brake control valve is an on/off push/pull control valve located on the front console.
Û>Ûi When the air pressure reaches 340 kPa (50 psi) and the button is pushed in, the park brakes are
disengaged. The button will pop out when the air pressure falls below 280 kPa (40 psi) exhaust-
ing the delivery line and engaging the brakes.
+ÕVÊ,ii>ÃiÊ6>Ûi There are two quick release valves used in the air system. One is used for front axle #1 service
brakes, and the other is used for right side only rear spring brakes. The quick release valve is an
air valve used to exhaust air pressure from the brake chambers to speed up the brake release by
reducing the distance the air would have to travel back to the operating valve exhaust port.
16-13
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,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and depressurize both primary and secondary air circuits.
3. Disconnect and tag the air lines connected to the air compressor.
ÀÊÛiÀÀ
,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and depressurize both primary and secondary air circuits.
3. Remove the two bolts, lockwashers and nuts securing the air governor to the mounting
plate on the air dryer bracket. Remove the air governor.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the air governor on the mounting plate on the air dryer bracket and secure with
two bolts, lockwashers, and nuts.
16-14
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"«iÀ>Ì>Ê/iÃÌ 1. Start the engine and pressurize the system. Check the governor cut-out pressure with either
the panel gauge or a test gauge (830 kPa (120 psi). At the cut-out pressure, the compressor
is unloaded and the air dryer is purged.
2. Apply a series of brake applications with the engine running until the governor cuts-in. The
cut-in pressure is 690 kPa (100 psi). Governor adjustment is as follows:
c. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise to raise the setting or clockwise to lower
the setting.
i>>}iÊ/iÃÌ 1. Leakage checks on the governor are made at the exhaust port with a soap solution in both
the cut-in and cut-out positions. In the cut-in position, the leakage can be through either the
inlet valve or bottom piston grommet. In the cut-out position, leakage can be through the
exhaust valve seat or upper piston grommet. The soap solution test on the exhaust port is
done to verify a leak and determine its location.
2. If the governor does not function properly or has excessive leakage, repair or replace the
air governor. Check the applicable Grove Parts Manual.
2. If cleaning, use a cleaning solvent that will not have a detrimental effect on metal or rub-
ber.
3. Always replace filters that are removed with new ones. Every operating 3,000 hours or
160,000 km (100,000 miles), disassemble the governor and clean all parts.
2. Turn the battery disconnect switch in the battery compartment to the OFF position.
4. Tag and disconnect all air and electrical lines connected to the air dryer.
16-15
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5. Remove the four nuts and washers securing the dryer to the carrier frame and remove the
dryer.
6. If the dryer is to be replaced with a new one, remove the fittings from the old dryer.
2. Position the air dryer on the mounting studs on the carrier frame and secure with the four
nuts and washers.
3. Connect the air and electrical lines as per removal tags. Run the lines downhill so that
pockets of water don’t collect in the lines and freeze.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi The recommended desiccant cartridge change is 3 years but can be shorter or longer depending
>Vi on conditions.
1. Every 900 hours, or 40,000 km (25,000 mi) check for moisture in the air system by open-
ing the reservoir’s drain cock or automatic drain valve.
a. An outside air source has been used to charge the system that has not been passed
through a drying bed.
b. Excessively high air demands, which is not normal, that do not allow the compressor to
unload in a normal fashion. Check for air system leakage.
c. The dryer has been installed in a system that has been previously used without an air
dryer. The system is probably saturated with moisture and it may take several weeks to
dry the system out.
d. In areas where the temperature varies 15° C (30° F) or more daily, small amounts of
water can accumulate in the air system due to condensation. This is normal and should
not be considered as an indication that the dryer is not performing properly.
e. Location of the air dryer is too close [less than 1.8 m (6 ft)] to the air compressor.
4. With the ignition switch ON, unplug the electrical connector at the air dryer and check for
power. If there is no power, check for tripped circuit breaker and broken wires.
5. Every 10,800 hrs, 500,000 km (300,000 mi), or 36 months rebuild the air dryer and replace
the desiccant cartridge.
a. Turn off the engine and let the air dryer end cover cool to below 4° C (40° F).
16-16
706($,56<67(0
b. Check the resistance across the pins in the female connector on the bottom of the air
dryer. The resistance should be 1.5 to 3 ohms for a 12 volt system.
c. Warm the end cover to over 32° C (90° F) and check the resistance again. The resis-
tance should exceed 1000 ohms.
d. If the resistance is outside the specified limits, replace the purge valve housing assem-
bly which includes the thermostat and heater.
i>Ê/iÃÌÃ 1. Test the outlet port check valve in the dryer by observing the pressure after the governor
cuts out. A rapid loss in pressure indicates a possible failed check valve in the outlet port.
2. Test the purge valve by applying a soap solution to the exhaust. Observe for bubbles during
the loading cycle.
3. Test the safety valve by pulling the stem while the compressor is loading. Air must exhaust
while the stem is held and stop when the stem is released.
4. Test all lines and fittings leading to and from the air dryer with a soap solution for leaking.
,iÃiÀÛÀÃ
3. Remove the clamping hardware and remove the reservoir from the clamping brackets. If a
new reservoir is to be installed, remove the fittings from the old reservoir.
>Ìi>Vi Maintenance of the reservoir is limited to inspecting the mounting hardware. If the tank is dam-
aged and cannot be used, it is more economical to replace it with a new tank than to repair the
old one.
i>} If the inside of the reservoir has become excessively coated with sludge that cannot be drained
off, remove the reservoir and clean with solvent, steam, or water. Aerate the reservoir before
reinstalling.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. If a new reservoir is being installed, install the fittings from the old reservoir on the new
one.
2. Position the reservoir in the mounting brackets and install the clamp hardware.
16-17
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"«iÀ>Ì}Ê>`Êi> 1. Shut down the engine and slowly reduce the pressure.
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iVÃ
2. The switch should activate at about 520 kPa (75 psi). The air gauges and indicators in the
cab can be used to test the switch.
3. With system pressurized, coat the switch with a soap solution and observe for bubbles. No
leaking is permitted.
2. Disconnect the electrical lead and unscrew the switch from the fitting.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Screw the switch into the fitting and connect the electrical leads.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 16,000 km (10,000 mi) or monthly do the procedures as outlined under Operating and
>Vi Leakage Checks above.
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"«iÀ>Ì>Ê/iÃÌ Depress the brake pedal and observe that the stop lights illuminate.
i>>}iÊ/iÃÌ With pressure applied, coat the switch with a soap solution and observe for bubbles. No leaks
are permitted.
,iÛ> Disconnect the electrical leads and unscrew the switch from the dual brake valve with a wrench.
ÃÌ>>Ì Screw the switch into the dual brake valve with a wrench and connect the electrical leads.
" ÀÊ*ÀiÃÃÕÀiÊ>Õ}i
2. Remove the hardware securing the cover to the front console and remove the cover.
3. Gain access to the rear of the air pressure gauge. Tag and disconnect the nylon tubes from
the rear of the gauge. Tag and disconnect the electrical connector.
4. Remove the hardware securing the gauge to the front console and remove the gauge.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the air pressure gauge in the front console with the attaching hardware.
2. Connect the two nylon tubes to the fittings in the rear of the gauge and connect the electri-
cal connector as per removal tags.
3. Install the front console cover and secure with attaching hardware.
ÕVÌ>Ê
iV Start the engine and observe the air pressure gauge. The red arrow on the gauge (primary)
should rise first until a pressure reading of about 590 kPa (85 psi) at which time the green arrow
(secondary) should begin to climb. Both arrows should level off at about 760 kPa (110 psi).
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"«iÀ>Ì}Ê>`Êi> With the system pressurized, pull the valve stem and air should exhaust from the valve exhaust
>}iÊ
iVÃ port. Release the stem and air flow should stop. Replace the safety valve if it does not pass the
operation test.
Coat the valve and fitting with a soap and observe for leaks. Replace the valve if excessive leak-
ing is present.
Check the valve every 160,000 km (100,000 mi), 3600 hrs, or yearly.
16-19
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2. Wipe clean all rubber parts and replace the filter if clogged.
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3. Place the valve guide over the inlet/exhaust valve. The wire will project through the
exhaust port.
4. Place the body on the cover and install the capscrews and lockwashers.
6. Install the adapter and filter assembly in the body and tighten.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Clean and flush the reservoir to prevent clogging of the drain valve filter.
2. Aerate the reservoir thoroughly if any solvents have been used to clean the reservoir.
3. Install the drain valve in the bottom port of the reservoir and tighten.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 1800 hrs, 80,000 km (50,000 mi) or 6 months remove, inspect, and clean the drain valve
>Vi as described above.
16-20
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"«iÀ>Ì}Êi>ÃÊ>`ÊSlightly depressurize the tank several times and check if air is exhausted through the drain valve
iVÃ exhaust port. If no air is exhausted, push up on the wire stem. If no air is exhausted, the filter is
plugged. Remove the drain valve and clean the filter.
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Replace the drain valve if the valve does not function as described above.
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,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and completely depressurize both air systems.
2. Tag and disconnect the two air lines from the pressure protection valve and remove the two
nuts and washers securing the valve to the mounting studs.
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3. Tag and disconnect the air lines from the valve. Unscrew the valve from the auxiliary air
reservoir.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the valve on the mounting studs and secure with two nuts and washers or screw the
valve into the auxiliary air reservoir.
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1. Install a pressure gauge and drain valve at both the supply and delivery sides of the pres-
sure protection valve.
16-21
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3. Slowly exhaust the delivery side of the valve. The gauge on the supply side should stop
while the gauge on the delivery side should continue to show a pressure loss. The closing
pressure should be 590 ±35 kPa (85 ±5 psi).
i>>}iÊ/iÃÌ 1. Apply a soap solution around the cap of the valve with the system pressurized and observe
for bubbles. A 25 mm (one inch) bubble in three seconds or longer is acceptable.
2. Disconnect the air line on the delivery side of the valve and apply a soap solution to the
delivery port. A 25 mm (one inch) bubble in five seconds or more is acceptable.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 900 hrs, 40,000 km (25,000 mi) or 3 months check for operation and leakage as described
>Vi above.
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iVÊ6>Ûi
,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and completely depressurize both air systems.
2. Tag and disconnect the air lines connected to the double check valve.
3. Remove the two nuts and washers securing the valve to the frame and remove the valve.
Ã>ÃÃiLÞ 1. Remove the end caps, O-rings, shuttle, and shuttle guide.
i>} 1. Clean metal parts in a cleaning solvent and inspect for cracks, wear, or deterioration.
Replace all parts not considered serviceable.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Install the shuttle guide, shuttle, O-rings, and end caps.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position valve on mounting studs on frame and secure with two nuts and washers.
"«iÀ>Ì}Ê
iV 1. Connect two separately controlled air lines to the inlet ports and a pressure gauge to the
outlet port.
2. Apply and release air to one of the inlet ports and observe that the gauge registers the pres-
sure.
16-22
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3. Repeat with the other line. Keep in mind that the outlet gauge will register pressure from
the highest pressure line.
2. Apply air to the other inlet port and observe for bubbles. A 25 mm (one inch) bubble in five
seconds is permissible.
3. Do the same to other side. Replace any valve that does not function properly.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 3600 hours, 160,000 km (100,000 mi), or yearly remove disassemble, clean, and inspect
>Vi the valve.
,i>ÞÊ6>Ûi
The inlet/exhaust valve assembly can be replaced without removing the valve. Replacement is
as follows.
,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheel and completely depressurize both air systems.
2. Tag and disconnect all air lines connected to the relay valve.
3. Remove the two nuts and washers securing the valve to the frame and remove the valve.
ëiVÌ Inspect all air lines for kinks, cuts, chafing, or deterioration. Replace lines showing these
defects.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the valve on the mounting stud on the frame and secure with two nuts and wash-
ers.
16-23
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"«iÀ>Ì}Ê/iÃÌ 1. Chock the wheels and pressurize both systems. Adjust the brakes.
2. Apply and release the brakes several time and check for prompt response of the brakes at
all wheels.
i>>}iÊ/iÃÌ 1. With dual brake valve released, coat the relay valve exhaust port with a soap solution to
check for inlet valve and O-ring leakage. A 25 mm (one-inch) bubble in five seconds is
permissible.
2. With the dual brake valve applied, check the relay valve exhaust port for leakage of the
exhaust valve.
3. Apply a soap solution around where the relay valve cover and body meet to check for seal
ring leakage. A 25 mm (one-inch) bubble in five seconds is permissible.
1. Disassemble the valve, clean and inspect all parts. Repair and replace as necessary.
,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and completely depressurize both air systems.
2. Tag and disconnect all air lines connected to the brake valve.
3. Remove the three nuts, washers, and lockwashers securing the valve to the mounting studs
and remove the brake valve and pedal assembly.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the brake valve and pedal assembly onto the studs under the front console and
secure with three nuts, washers, and lockwashers.
2. Connect all the air lines to the brake valve as per removal tag.
16-24
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"«iÀ>Ì}Ê/iÃÌ
1. Check the delivery pressure of both #1 and #2 circuits with a test gauge. Depress the trea-
dle to several positions between fully released and applied. Check the pressure on the
gauges to see if it varies equally and proportionately with the movement of the brake pedal.
2. After the brakes are released, the reading on the test gauges should fall to zero. The deliv-
ery pressure in #1 circuit should be 30 kPa 4 psi greater than #2 circuit with both supply
reservoirs at the same pressure.
i>>}iÊ/iÃÌ 1. Make and hold a high pressure application 550 kPa (80 psi).
2. Coat the exhaust port and body of the brake valve with a soap solution. A leakage of a
25 mm (one-inch) bubble in three seconds is permitted.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 300 operating hours, 16,000 km (10,000 mi), or three months.
>Vi
1. Clean dirt away from the heal of the treadle, plunger boot, and mounting plate.
2. Lubricate the treadle roller, hinge pin, and roller pin using a barium base lubricant.
3. Check the rubber plunger boot for deterioration and replace as necessary.
Replace inlet and exhaust valves, exhaust diaphragm, O-rings, and rubber graduating spring if
worn or deteriorated.
1. Disassemble the brake valve and clean and inspect all parts.
2. Remove the hardware securing the front console cover and remove the cover.
16-25
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3. Tag and disconnect the air lines connected to the park control valve. Tag and disconnect the
electrical leads from the pressure switch screwed into the valve.
4. Drive out the roll pin securing the knob to the valve stem.
5. Loosen and remove the valve mounting nut and remove the valve from the console panel.
2. Position the valve through the hole in the console and secure with the valve mounting nut.
3. Push the knob onto the valve stem and secure with the roll pin.
4. Connect the air lines to the valve and the electrical leads to the pressure switch as per
removal tags.
5. Install the front console cover and secure with the attaching hardware.
"«iÀ>Ì}Ê>`Êi>
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iV
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2. With the park brake valve plunger pulled out (exhaust position), coat the exhaust port and
plunger stem with a soap solution. A 25-mm (one-inch) bubble in five seconds is permissi-
ble. No leakage is permitted between the upper and lower body.
3. Push the park brake valve plunger in (applied position). A 25-mm (one-inch) bubble in
three seconds is permitted.
4. Reduce the air pressure and observe the park brake valve plunger. It should pop out when
the air pressure drops to about 280 kPa (40 psi) exhausting the delivery line and engage the
park brakes.
*ÀiÛiÌÛiÊ>Ìi Every 300 hours, 16,000 km (10,000 miles) or 3 months. Perform the procedures under the
>Vi Operating and Leakage Check.
16-26
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,iÛ> 1. Chock the wheels and completely depressurize both air systems.
3. Remove the two nuts and washers securing the valve to the mounting studs on the frame
and remove the valve.
Ã>ÃÃiLÞ 1. Scribe an index mark across the cover so that the cover can be reinstalled in the same posi-
tion.
2. Remove the four screws from the valve cover and remove the spring, spring seat, dia-
phragm and O-ring.
i>}Ê>`ÊëiV1. Clean all parts and inspect the threads, body, and cover for damage.
Ì
2. Inspect the exhaust seat for scratches or pitting.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Put the spring into the body and the diaphragm over the spring seat with the flat side of the
diaphragm toward the body.
2. Install the O-ring and cover. Secure the cover with the four screws.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the valve on the mounting studs and secure with the two nuts and washers.
"«iÀ>Ì}Ê>`Êi> 3.1. Apply and release the brake several times and check for prompt response of brake cham-
}Ê/iÃÌÃ bers.
4.2. Remove the exhaust port fitting and coat the exhaust port with a soap solution then fully
apply and hold the brakes. A 25-mm (one-inch) bubble in five seconds is permissible.
Remove the valve and replace the spring and all rubber parts.
16-27
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16-28
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This section describes the hydraulic system, the components which make up the hydraulic sys-
tem, and the components dependent upon the hydraulic system for their operation. This includes
descriptions of the supply pressure and return hydraulic circuit, hydraulic pumps, all hydraulic
valves, and all hydraulic cylinders. Detailed descriptions and operation of individual hydraulic
circuits are discussed within their individual sections as applicable.
17-1
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If a component has been changed because of a failure that might allow metal or abrasive parti-
cles to enter the system, all systems must be thoroughly checked, drained, and flushed.
1. Remove the reservoir drain plug. Allow about three minutes after hydraulic oil stops flow-
ing from the drain port for the side walls to drain.
2. Clean and install the reservoir plug and fill the reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of fuel oil
and clean hydraulic oil.
3. Cycle the crane through all functions several times. Then return the crane to its stowed
position and turn the front and rear wheels to the extreme left. Shut down the engine.
4. Remove the reservoir drain plug and drain the reservoir. Clean and install the drain plug
and fill the reservoir with clean hydraulic oil.
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5. Disconnect the return line from an outrigger extension cylinder and fully extend the outrig-
ger.
6. Connect the outrigger return line and retract the outrigger. Replenish the reservoir hydrau-
lic oil level as necessary.
17-4
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8. Disconnect the return lines from a pair of outrigger stabilizer cylinders and activate the cyl-
inders to their maximum down positions.
9. Connect the return lines and raise the outrigger stabilizer cylinders to the stowed position.
Replenish the reservoir hydraulic oil level as necessary.
10. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 for the remaining two outrigger cylinders.
11. Disconnect the return lines from both front steer cylinders and turn the front wheels to the
extreme right.
12. Connect the return lines and turn the front wheels to the extreme left and then back to cen-
ter. Replenish the reservoir hydraulic oil level as necessary.
When hydraulic oils are changed, recheck the reservoir hydraulic oil level after brief system
operation and add hydraulic oil as required. Working reservoir capacity (capacity to full mark)
is 507 liters (134 U.S. gallons). Ensure the crane is level and in the travel mode of operation
when the hydraulic system is being filled. The system must be filled with all cylinders retracted.
Fill the reservoir to the full mark on the reservoir sight gauge. After the reservoir is filled, oper-
ate all circuits and recheck the reservoir sight gauge. Add hydraulic oil as required.
,iÛ}ÊÀÊÀÊ/ iÊÞ`À>ÕVÊ-ÞÃÌi
Air entering the hydraulic oil will normally be removed automatically by passage of the hydrau-
lic oil over the baffles in the hydraulic reservoir. If a component has been replaced, the reservoir
level is too low, or a leak develops in the suction lines to the pumps, air can enter the system. If
air becomes entrapped in the hydraulic oil, it may be detectable in pumps and motor operated
components such as the swing mechanism and hoist(s), because it can cause these units to
become noisy during operation. If noisy operation occurs, first check the level of the hydraulic
reservoir and replenish as necessary. Then inspect for leaks in the suction lines leading to the
pumps.
Minute leaks may be hard to locate. If a leak is not readily detectable, use the following way to
check for it:
Seal all normal openings in the hydraulic system and the reservoir. Using a positive
means to control the pressure (like a regulator), pressurize the hydraulic system to 13.8
to 27.6 kPa (0.14 to 0.28 bar) (2 to 4 psi) and inspect all joints and fittings for evidence
17-5
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of leaks. A soap solution applied to the fittings and joints may also prove helpful in
detecting minute leaks while the system is pressurized. Remove the pressure, repair any
leaks found, and reopen any openings (such as a vent) closed for inspection. Refill the
reservoir after completing any repairs or service. Operate all hydraulic circuits several
times in both directions.
This action should return any entrapped air to the reservoir where it can be removed
from the hydraulic oil by the baffles.
Entrapped air may be removed from cylinders having wet rods by cycling. On certain
cylinders, a plugged port is provided on the rod end to bleed off entrapped air.
In the event that air entrapment should persist, bleeding of air by loosening various
clamp and screw type fittings may become necessary.
If the above procedures fail to eliminate air entrapment, contact your authorized Grove
Manitowoc Distributor.
*>ÀÌÃÊ,i«>ViiÌ
Parts found damaged or out of tolerance when maintenance is being performed should be
replaced. Refer to the Grove Manitowoc Parts Catalog for proper replacement parts.
17-6
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
iÃVÀ«Ì
The supply pressure and return circuit is made up of several circuits which route hydraulic oil
from the two hydraulic pumps to the directional control valves for the individual operating cir-
cuits. The supply pressure and return circuit consists of the reservoir and integral filter, two
hydraulic pumps, a hydraulic oil cooler, and a 7-port hydraulic swivel. Refer to HYDRAULIC
PUMPS in this section for descriptions and maintenance instructions for each hydraulic pump.
The supply pressure and return circuit uses Port 2 for pump supply and the dual Port 1 for
return. Each operating circuit’s description and components begin with the circuit’s directional
control valve.
Þ`À>ÕVÊ,iÃiÀÛÀÊ>`ÊÌiÀ
The reservoir, attached to the right side of the carrier frame, has a capacity of 564 liters (149
gallons) total, 507 liters (134 gallons) to the full mark. The all-steel reservoir has an internally
mounted full-flow filter and integral baffles that help cool the hydraulic oil and prevent hydrau-
lic oil foaming.
Hydraulic oil flows through the manifold at the lower rear of the reservoir to the hydraulic
pumps. Almost all of the return flow goes through the filter at the top of the reservoir. The return
line that goes directly into the reservoir (instead of through the filter) is from the No. 1 port
(drain) of the 7-port swivel.
A magnetized drain plug in the bottom of the reservoir collects metal particles from the hydrau-
lic oil if it becomes contaminated.
A sight gauge is located on the side of the reservoir to indicate hydraulic oil level.
A filler cap on the top of the reservoir is for filling the reservoir. The filler cap includes a
strainer for catching contaminants and gaskets to prevent leaking. A breather cap (vent) is
located on top of the reservoir to allow air to enter or exhaust from the reservoir. It is most
important that the breather be kept clean to prevent damage to the reservoir.
A large access cover on the top of the reservoir provides access for cleaning. The cover is
secured to the top of the reservoir with a band clamp and has a gasket to prevent leaking. The
access hole can also be used to fill the reservoir after it has been completely drained.
The hydraulic oil filter is located in the reservoir. It bolts to the top of the reservoir, and its
bypass outlet fits into a tube welded in the reservoir. The filter housing contains a replaceable
filter element. Returning hydraulic oil flows through the filter head, through the filter element,
and into the reservoir.
17-7
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A remote mounted gauge connected to the filter head indicates how restricted (clogged) the fil-
ter element is. When back pressure caused by a dirty filter element exceeds 170 kPa (1.7 bar)
(25 psi), the filter head’s bypass feature functions to allow the hydraulic oil to bypass the filter
element and flow into the reservoir through the bypass outlet instead. (Filter changing instruc-
tions are in MAINTENANCE.)
°Ê£Ê*Õ« The No. 1 hydraulic pump is frame mounted above the transmission and is driven by a drive-
shaft attached to the rear engine PTO to which is attached a 38.02 cm3 (2.32 cubic inch) with an
output of 78.95 l/min (20.86 gpm) at 2070 rpm gear pump.
The axial piston hydraulic pump supplies the hoist, lift, and telescope directional control valve.
The valve sections control the following functions: main hoist, boom lift, boom telescope, and,
when equipped, auxiliary hoist. Hydraulic oil flowing from this valve bank returns to the reser-
voir filter.
A gear pump is mounted on the rear of the axial piston pump supplying the outrigger selector
valve and swing.
Pump No. 2 supplies the front axle steering gear and the charge air cooler.
17-8
706(
1. Breather 8. Bolt
2. Hydraulic Reservoir 9. Lockwasher
3. Magnetic Plug 10. Flatwasher
4. Temperature Sender 11. Screw
5. Oil Level Gauge 12. Washer
6. Return Manifold 13. Access Cover
7. Strap Weld 14. Carrier Frame
17-9
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2. Wipe any dirt from the filter head and cap assembly.
3. Remove the four screws and washers securing the cap assembly to the filter head and
remove the cap assembly.
6. Ensure the new filter element is correct by comparing their part numbers with the part
numbers of the used filter element.
iiÌÊÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the new element into the filter bowl (housing).
4. Install the cap assembly on the filter head and secure the cap assembly to the filter head
with four washers and screws.
5. Activate the hydraulic system and check for leaks. Make repairs as needed.
17-12
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
1. Head
2. Cap
3. Bowl
4. Bypass Spring
5. Bypass Valve
6. O-ring
7. Gasket
8. Filter Element
9. Spring
10. O-ring
17-13
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The No. 1 hydraulic pump is frame mounted above the transmission and is driven by a drive-
shaft attached to the rear engine PTO to which is attached a 38.02 cm3 (2.32 cubic inch) with an
output of 78.95 l/min (20.86 gpm) at 2070 rpm gear pump. The No. 2 hydraulic pump is
mounted on a drive pad on the engine and is directly driven.
The purpose of these pumps is to convert the mechanical energy of the engine and the torque
converter into fluid energy for the operation of the crane’s hydraulic components.
The No. 1 hydraulic pump consists of an axial piston main pump with a thru drive.
Pump No. 2 is a 43.8 cm3 (2.67 cubic inch) section with an output of 106.0 l/min (28.0 gpm) at
2300 rpm. An integral flow divider/relief valve ensures a constant 37.9 l/min (10 gpm) at 13,790
kPa (138 bar) (2000 psi) at the primary port.
>Ìi>Vi
°Ê£Ê*Õ«Ê,iÛ>
1. Remove the counterweight support structure to gain access to the pump. It is bolted to the
pump drive.
2. Tag and disconnect the two supply lines from the pump. Cap or plug the line and port.
3. Tag and disconnect the pump distribution lines from the pump. Cap or plug the lines and
ports.
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17-14
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4. Remove the four bolts and hardened washers attaching the No. 1 pump to the drive pad.
Remove the pump.
5. Clean the gasket material from the drive pad and the pump.
°ÊÓÊ*Õ«Ê,iÛ>
1. Remove the right side engine access panel to gain access to the pump. It is bolted to the
engine.
2. Tag and disconnect the supply lines from the pump. Cap or plug the line and port.
3. Tag and disconnect the pump distribution lines from the pump. Cap or plug the lines and
port.
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4. Remove the two bolts and hardened washers attaching the No. 2 pump to the drive pad on
the engine. Remove the pump.
5. Clean the gasket material from the drive pad and the pump.
17-15
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1. Operate the pump for at least two minutes at zero pressure and moderate speed (not over
1500 rpm).
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2. Touch pump to verify it has not become hot from binding. Listen for abnormal noises indi-
cating low hydraulic oil level or internal pump problems. If the pump appears to be operat-
ing satisfactorily, increase the rpm by steps, until reaching governed rpm. Operate pump
about five minutes while checking for proper operation and leakage. Fix leaks; make
repairs as needed.
3. Cycle the components the pump powers to verify the pump drives them all properly.
*ÃÌÊ*Õ«Ê-Ì>ÀÌ 1. Ensure the reservoir is filled with the proper hydraulic fluid to the high level mark on the
Õ«Ê*ÀVi`ÕÀi reservoir sight gauge.
2. Ensure no air is entering the pump inlet, and that the pump suction or inlet fluid is not
bleeding back to the reservoir when the engine is stopped, by making sure all suction or
inlet lines are air tight.
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3. Remove adapter and hose from “T1” port, and check to ensure “T2” port on the opposite
side of the pump is plugged. Fill housing full of hydraulic oil through “T1” port. Re-install
the adapter and hose into the “T1” port.
17-16
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
a. Idle engine for two to three minutes with no functions actuated. Check for leaks and
repair if required. Lay hand on pump to check for excessive heat build-up. If the pump
section is too hot to keep your hand on, stop immediately. If the pump makes excessive
noise it is probably sucking air. Keep the pump from priming. If this occurs, stop
engine, and inspect all connections of the suction hose/tube for a loose connection, or a
missing or damaged O-ring. Re-start the engine and run until the pump takes prime for
a maximum of 30 seconds. If the pump does not prime in 30 seconds, stop the engine
and repeat until the pump primes.
b. Increase the RPM to 1500-1800 for 1 to 2 minutes with no functions actuated and
make checks again as outlined in step a. Incrementally increase throttle to full RPM
and then cycle the functions that the pump supples to verify proper speed. Verify pump
flow.
17-17
+<'5$8/,&6<67(0 706(
1. Hydraulic Pump
2. Shaft
3. Pump Support Weldment
4. Distributor
5. Pump Drive
6. Transmission
7. Bolt
8. Washer
9. Hex Nut
10. Bolt
11. Washer
12. Washer
13. Bolt
14. Slave Unit
17-18
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
66 -
iiÀ>
This subsection provides descriptive information for all the hydraulic valves used on this crane.
For a listing of all valves, the circuit they are used in, and their physical location, refer to the
Valve Usage Table. Refer to the figure titled Valve Locations for valve locations. The descrip-
tion of each valve given here is for the valve itself. For information on how each valve functions
in the individual circuits, refer to the description and operation procedures of that circuit.
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17-19
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17-20
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The charge air cooler directional valve is a solenoid operated two position two way valve. It is
plumbed in parallel with the charge air cooler motor. In its normal (unenergized) position, the
valve is closed forcing all of the oil flow to run through the charge air cooler motor. When the
valve is energized, oil can flow through the valve allowing it to bypass the motor. Energizing of
the valve is controlled by the engine ECM.
>Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Remove the two bolt/nut assemblies securing the charge air cooler valve assembly mount-
ing plate to the frame wall.
2. Remove the bolt/nut assembly securing the directional valve to the mounting plate.
3. Loosen the tube nut and reducer fitting nut. The valve should fall away from the mounting
plate.
ÕVÌ>Ê
iV 1. Unplug wires from the charge air cooler directional valve.
3. Start engine and run at 1600 RPM. Charge cooler fan should turn slowly or not at all.
4. Disconnect terminal #1 from battery “x”. Charge cooler fan should increase in speed.
17-21
+<'5$8/,&6<67(0 706(
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The outrigger valve directionally controls the outrigger circuit. The valve is mounted on the
front face of the carrier frame member forward of the swivel.
The inlet station contains a 24,100 kPa (241 bar) (3500 psi) relief valve and a two position two
way solenoid valve that is normally open bypassing oil from the inlet port to the pressure
beyond port. Activation of the outriggers will energize the solenoid valve to close pressurizing
the pressurized sections. The next station controls the outrigger extend and retract. It contains
two bolt-on three position four way solenoid directional control valves, internally connected in
parallel, two pilot operated check valves with integral 27,586 kPa (276 bar) (3800 psi) thermal
relief valves.
! >Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the electrical connectors to the outrigger valve.
2. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines to the outrigger valve. Cap or plug the lines and
ports.
3. Remove the four bolts, washers and nuts securing the outrigger valve to the crane. Remove
the valve as a complete assembly.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the outrigger valve on its mount. Secure the valve with the attaching washers, nuts
and bolts. Torque the bolts 40.6 to 43.3 N·m (30 to 32 lbs-ft).
2. Connect the hydraulic lines to the outrigger valve as tagged during removal.
3. Connect the electrical connectors to the outrigger valve as tagged during removal.
ÕVÌ>Ê
iV 1. Cycle an outrigger cylinder several times. Verify the cylinder extends and retracts properly.
17-22
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There are two outrigger control manifolds utilized on the crane, one for the front outriggers and
one for the rear outriggers. The front manifold consists of five normally closed two position two
way solenoid valves and the rear consists of four normally closed two position two way sole-
noid valves. They are mounted inside the frame of their respective outrigger box.
When energized, the solenoid shifts the spool to open allowing extension or retraction of the
outrigger cylinders.
" >Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines to the solenoid valves; cap all lines and openings.
3. Remove the bolts, nuts and washers securing the manifold to the outrigger box; remove the
manifold.
ëiVÌ Visually inspect the valves and hydraulic connections for any evidence of leaks or other dam-
age. Check security of the electrical connections. Inspect the wiring for any evidence of cracks
or breaks.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Position the manifold on the mounting; secure with the washers, nuts and bolts. Torque the
bolts 40.6 to 43.3 N·m (30 to 32 lbs-ft).
ÕVÌ>Ê
iV Activate the hydraulic system and cycle the affected cylinder(s) several times. Observe for
proper functioning of the affected cylinder(s). Ensure the solenoid valve hydraulic connections
are secure.
17-24
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The pilot operated relief valve is installed on the right inside frame of the front outrigger box
under the right bottom side rail. Its purpose is to limit the piston pressure of the front center sta-
bilizer not allowing it to raise the crane. The valve consists of a manifold and cartridge. When
pressure at the inlet port exceeds the bias spring force or setting holding the valve closed, the
valve will open directing pressurized oil to the reservoir.
>Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines from the valve and cap or plug all openings.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the valve with the bolts and nuts. Torque the bolts 23.0 to 25.7 N·m (17 to 19 lbs-ft).
3. Check the valve and hydraulic connections for leaks. Make repairs as needed.
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17-26
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iÃVÀ«Ì
A pilot operated (PO) check valve is located in each outrigger stabilizer cylinder port block. The
check valve functions as a holding valve for the stabilizer cylinder. Oil flow is directed from the
“V” port to the “C” ports, while blocking flow in the opposite direction. Flow is reversed from
“C” to “V” when pressure pilot oil is applied to the opposite side “V” port.
>Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Unscrew the check valve from the stabilizer cylinder port block.
ÃÌ>>Ì 2. Check the inside of the port block for any sharp edges or burrs and remove as necessary
with emery cloth.
4. Lubricate the check valve and O-rings with clean hydraulic oil.
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5. Carefully install the check valve into the port block until fully seated.
6. Test the check valve and port block by operating the affected outrigger’s stabilizer cylinder.
Verify it extends and retracts without problems; verify there is no leaking. Make repairs as
needed.
17-27
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The charge air cooler flow control valve is located on the left inside frame wall above the trans-
mission. It provides a minimum flow of 6 gpm of oil to the charge air cooler motor/bypass loop
(see Charge Air Cooler Directional Valve). The excess flow is returned to the hydraulic reser-
voir.
>Ìi>Vi
,iÛ> 1. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines from the valve
3. Remove the bolts and washers that secure the valve assembly to the frame mounting plate.
17-28
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Install the valve to the frame mounting plate with the bolts and washers. Torque the bolts
10.4 to 12.2 N·m (7.7 to 9.0 lbs-ft).
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17-29
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9
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This subsection provides descriptive information for all the hydraulic cylinders used on this
crane. The description of the cylinder given here is for the cylinder itself. For information on
how the cylinder functions in the individual circuits, refer to the Description and Operation of
that circuit.
>Ìi>Vi
iiÀ> There must be a gap between the ends of each wear ring when it is installed onto the piston (as
applicable) or head. In addition, each wear ring gap is to be located as follows: Divide 360
degrees by the number of wear rings on the component. The resulting value is the number of
degrees each wear ring gap is to be located with respect to each other.
:($55,1**$3
,QFK PP ,QFK PP
1 to 4.75 25.4 to 120.7 0.125 3.18
5 to 10.0 127.0 to 254.0 0.187 4.75
greater than 10.0 greater than 254.0 0.250 6.35
i>>}iÊ
iV A hydraulic cylinder should not be disassembled unless it is essential. The following checks
will provide a means of determining if a cylinder has a faulty or leaking piston seal.
1. Extend the rod to its maximum stroke. Remove the retract hose from the cylinder. Cap the
retract hose.
17-30
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
2. Apply hydraulic pressure to the piston side of the cylinder and observe the open cylinder
port for leakage. If leakage is observed, the seals in the cylinder must be replaced.
3. Fully retract the cylinder rod. Remove the extend hose from the cylinder. Cap the extend
hose.
4. Apply hydraulic pressure to the retract (rod) side of the cylinder and observe the open cyl-
inder port for leakage. If leakage is observed, the seals in the cylinder must be replaced.
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vviVÌÃÊHydraulic oil expands when heated and contracts when cooled. This is a natural phenomena that
"ÊÞ`À>ÕVÊ
Þ happens to all liquids. The coefficient of expansion for API Group 1 hydraulic oil is approxi-
mately 0.00043 cubic inches per cubic inch of volume for 1°F of temperature change. Thermal
`iÀÃ contraction will allow a cylinder to retract as the hydraulic fluid which is trapped in the cylinder
cools. The change in the length of a cylinder is proportional to the extended length of the cylin-
der and to the change in temperature of the oil in the cylinder. For example, a cylinder extended
25 feet in which the oil cools 60°F would retract approximately 7 3/4 inches (see chart below).
A cylinder extended 5 feet in which the oil cools 60°F would only retract approximately 1 1/2
inches. The rate at which the oil cools depends on many factors and will be more noticeable
with a larger difference in oil temperature verses the ambient temperature.
Thermal contraction coupled with improper lubrication or improper wear pad adjustments may,
under certain conditions, cause a “stick-slip” condition in the boom. This “stick-slip” condition
could result in the load not moving smoothly. Proper boom lubrication and wear pad adjustment
is important to permit the boom sections to slide freely. Slow movement, of the boom may be
undetected by the operator unless a load is suspended for a long period of time.
If a load and the boom is allowed to remain stationary for a period of time and the ambient tem-
perature is cooler than the trapped oil temperature, the trapped oil in the cylinders will cool. The
load will lower as the telescope cylinder(s) retracts allowing the boom to come in. Also, the
boom angle will decrease as the lift cylinder(s) retracts causing an increase in radius and a
decrease in load height.
This situation will also occur in reverse. If a crane is set up in the morning with cool oil and the
daytime ambient temperature heats the oil, the cylinders will extend in similar proportions.
17-31
+<'5$8/,&6<67(0 706(
The chart below has been prepared to assist you in determining the approximate amount of
retraction/extension that may be expected from a hydraulic cylinder as a result of change in the
temperature of the hydraulic oil inside the cylinder. The chart is for dry rod cylinders. If the cyl-
inder rod is filled with hydraulic oil, the contraction rate is somewhat greater.
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3 3
Coeff. = 0.00043 (in /in / °F)
STROKE Temperature Change (°F)
(FT.) 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
5 0.26 0.52 0.77 1.03 1.29 1.55 1.81 2.06 2.32 2.58
10 0.52 1.03 1.55 2.06 2.58 3.10 3.61 4.13 4.64 5.16
15 0.77 1.55 2.32 3.10 3.87 4.64 5.42 6.19 6.97 7.74
20 1.03 2.06 3.10 4.13 5.16 6.19 7.22 8.26 9.29 10.32
25 1.29 2.58 3.87 5.16 6.45 7.74 9.03 10.32 11.61 12.90
30 1.55 3.10 4.64 6.19 7.74 9.29 10.84 12.38 13.93 15.48
35 1.81 3.61 5.42 7.22 9.03 10.84 12.64 14.45 16.25 18.06
40 2.06 4.13 6.19 8.26 10.32 12.38 14.45 16.51 18.58 20.64
45 2.32 4.64 6.97 9.29 11.61 13.93 16.25 18.58 20.90 23.22
50 2.58 5.16 7.74 10.32 12.90 15.48 18.06 20.64 23.22 25.80
55 2.84 5.68 8.51 11.35 14.19 17.03 19.87 22.70 25.54 28.38
60 3.10 6.19 9.29 12.38 15.48 18.58 21.67 24.77 27.86 30.96
3 3
Length change in inches = Stroke (Ft.) X Temperature Change ( °F) X Coeff. (in /in / °F) X 12 in/ft
17-32
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
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The steer cylinders are mounted on the front axles. The steer cylinders each have a 5.08 cm (2.0
inch) diameter bores. The steer cylinders each have a retracted length of 52.15 cm (20.53
inches) from end to end. The steer cylinders each have an extended length of 82.63 cm (32.53
inches) from end to end. Each cylinder has a stroke of 30.48 cm (12.0 inches). A wiper ring pre-
vents foreign material from entering each cylinder. O-rings and other seals prevent internal and
external leakage.
>Ìi>Vi
Ã>ÃÃiLÞ 1. Place a spanner wrench in the drilled holes on the gland end of the cylinder.
2. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the gland end of the barrel. Pry up on the lock wire and
rotate the spanner wrench to remove the wire from the barrel.
3. Pull the rod with piston and gland out of the barrel.
6. Check the rod and barrel for nicks, burrs, and scratches. Stone out minor defects.
ëiVÌ 1. Clean all parts with solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts for serviceability.
2. Inspect the barrel carefully for scoring. If barrel is scored, it must be repaired or replaced.
3. Check rod’s piston area for damage. If it is damaged, determine if it can be repaired or
must be replaced.
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17-33
+<'5$8/,&6<67(0 706(
5. Stone out minor blemishes and polish with a fine crocus cloth.
6. Clean with solvent and dry with compressed air any parts that have been stoned and pol-
ished.
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Install the seals on the piston and gland. Do not stretch seals or twist seals in the grooves.
2. Lubricate all parts and inside of barrel with new clean hydraulic oil.
4. Push the gland into the bore until the shoulder of the gland contacts the barrel.
6. Push the lock wire through the slot in the barrel and rotate the spanner wrench until all the
wire is inserted into the slot.
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7. Pressurize and cycle the cylinder with hydraulic oil pressure. Test the cylinder at 25,865
kPa (259 bar) (3750 psi). Check for proper operation and any leakage. Make repairs as
needed.
17-34
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
1. Barrel
2. Rod
3. O-ring
4. Lockwire
5. U-cup Seal
6. Rod Wiper
7. Piston
8. Bronze/Teflon Seal
9. Wear Ring
10. Nut
11. Holes for Spanner Wrench
Steer Cylinder
iÃVÀ«Ì
The four extension cylinders have 6.4 cm (2.5-inch) diameter bores. Each cylinder has a
retracted length of 183 cm (71.9 inches) from the center of the rod bushing to the center of the
barrel bushing. Each cylinder’s extended length is 433 cm (170.44 inches). The stroke of one
cylinder is (119.4 cm) 47.00 inches and the other cylinder is (130.8) 51.50 inches. A wiper ring
prevents foreign material from entering each cylinder. O-rings and other seals prevent internal
and external leakage.
17-35
+<'5$8/,&6<67(0 706(
>Ìi>Vi
Ã>ÃÃiLÞ
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1. Using a screwdriver, pry out one end of the retainer wire from the groove in the barrel.
Using a second screwdriver, rotate it around the wire to free the wire from the groove.
Remove the retainer wire from the rod.
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2. Rapidly pull the rod against the head to free it. Remove rod and attached parts from the
barrel.
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3. Remove the two hydrolock seals from the outside of the piston.
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4. Remove the head from the rod. Remove the O-ring and the backup ring from the outside of
the head. Remove the wear ring, the buffer seal, the deep Z rod seal and the wiper ring
from the inside of the head.
17-36
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
ëiVÌ 1. Clean all parts with solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts for serviceability.
2. Inspect the barrel carefully for scoring. If barrel is scored, it must be repaired or replaced.
3. Check rod’s piston area for damage. If it is damaged, determine if it can be repaired or
must be replaced.
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$1' &$5()8//< 5(029( %8556 $1' 1,&.6 3$576 ',63/$<,1*
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5. Stone out minor blemishes and polish with a fine crocus cloth.
6. Clean with solvent and dry with compressed air any parts that have been stoned and pol-
ished.
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17-37
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1. Barrel
2. O-Ring Plug
3. Hydrolock Seal
4. Cylinder Rod
5. O-Ring
6. Back-Up Ring
7. Wear Ring
8. Buffer Seal Assembly
9. Cylinder Head Assembly
10. Deep Z Rod Seal
11. Retaining Wire
12. Wiper Ring
13. Piston
1. Install the replacement wear ring, buffer seal, deep Z rod seal and wiper ring in the inside
of the head. Make sure the buffer seal’s step is away from the wear ring. Make sure the
deep Z rod seal’s rim groove is closer to the wear ring.
2. Install the replacement O-ring and the backup ring on the outside of the head.
4. Slide the head, wear ring end first, onto the rod.
17-38
706( +<'5$8/,&6<67(0
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5. Install the replacement hydrolock seals on the outside of the piston. Make sure the “vees”
on the two hydrolock seals point at each other.
7. Remove the cover from the barrel. Insert the rod and attached parts into the barrel with a
slight twisting motion.
8. Push the head into the barrel. Install the retaining wire over the rod. Compress the retainer
wire and push it into the groove in the barrel
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'(5
9. Pressurize and cycle the cylinder with hydraulic oil pressure. Test the cylinder at 20,700
kPa (270 bar) (3000 psi). Check for proper operation and any leakage. Make repairs as
needed.
iÃVÀ«Ì
The four outrigger stabilizer cylinders each have a hollow rod for internal porting. Each cylinder
has a 14.0 cm (5.5 inch) diameter bore. A port block is welded to the rod of each cylinder and a
pilot operated check valve is threaded into each port block. The retracted length of the cylinder
from the end of the barrel to the center of the rod’s port block rod bushing is 109.05 cm (43.12
inches). The extended length of the cylinder from the end of the barrel to the center of the rod’s
port block rod bushing is 160.3 cm (63.12 inches). It’s stroke is 50.8 cm (20.0 inches). A wiper
ring prevents foreign material from entering the cylinder. O-rings and other seals prevent inter-
nal and external leakage.
17-39
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2. Loosen the head’s set screw. Using a chain wrench, unscrew the head from the barrel.
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4. Remove a hydrolock seal from the outside of the piston to gain access to the set screw.
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5. Loosen the piston’s set screw. Unscrew the piston from the rod.
6. Remove the other hydrolock seal from the outside of the piston.
7. Remove the O-ring and the two backup rings from the inside of the piston.
9. Remove the head from the rod. Remove the O-ring and the backup ring from the outside of
the head. Remove the two wear rings, the buffer seal, the deep Z rod seal and the wiper ring
from the inside of the head.
ëiVÌ 1. Clean all parts with solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts for serviceability.
2. Inspect the barrel carefully for scoring. If barrel is scored, it must be repaired or replaced.
3. Check piston for damage. If piston is damaged, determine if it can be repaired or must be
replaced.
4. Inspect rod for straightness. Determine if it can be straightened or must be replaced. Verify
internal passages and ports are clean and undamaged.
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5. Stone out minor blemishes and polish with a fine crocus cloth.
6. Clean with solvent and dry with compressed air any parts that have been stoned and pol-
ished.
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1. Cylinder Barrel
2. Cylinder Rod
3. Check Valve
4. Cylinder Head
5. Wiper Ring
6. Deep Z Rod Seal
7. Buffer Seal
8. Set Screw
9. Wear Ring
10. Back-Up Ring
11. O-Ring
12. Spacer
13. Back-Up Ring
14. O-Ring
15. Hydrolock Seal
16.
17.
Piston
O-Ring Plug
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1. Install the replacement wear rings, buffer seal, rod seal, and wiper ring in the inside of the
head. Make sure the buffer seal’s step is away from the wear rings. Make sure the deep Z
rod seal’s rim groove is closer to the wear rings.
2. Install the replacement O-ring and the backup ring on the outside of the head.
3. Install the replacement O-ring and backup rings in the inside of the piston.
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4. Install one replacement hydrolock seal on the outside of the piston. Leave the other
hydrolock seal off for now so there is still access to the piston’s set screw hole.
8. Screw the piston onto the rod until it can go no farther. Hold the piston in place with the set
screw.
9. Install the other replacement hydrolock seal on the outside of the piston over the set screw.
Make sure the “vees” on the two hydrolock seals point at each other.
11. Remove the cover from the barrel. Insert the rod and attached parts into the barrel with a
slight twisting motion.
12. Clean all oil from the threads of the head. Coat the threads with an anti-seize compound
(Never-Seez paste lubricant or similar lubricant). Using a chain wrench, screw the head
into place on the barrel so its larger OD end is flush with the end of the barrel.
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13. Retract the cylinder. Adjust the head as needed until the center of the rod’s port block bush-
ing is 16.99 cm (6.38 inches) from the head’s close flat end. Hold the head in place with
the set screw.
14. Check the inside of the port block for any sharp edges or burrs and remove as necessary
with emery cloth.
16. Lubricate the check valve and O-rings with clean hydraulic oil.
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17. Carefully install the check valve into the port block until fully seated.
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18. Pressurize and cycle the cylinder with hydraulic oil pressure. Test the cylinder at 25,856
kPa (259 bar) (3750 psi). Check for proper operation and any leakage. Make repairs as
needed.
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The center front stabilizer cylinder has a 8.9 cm (3.5 inch) bore and is double acting. A port
block is welded to the end of the cylinder rod and a pilot operated check valve is threaded into
the port block. Internal seals are used to prevent leaks and a wiper ring in the cylinder head
wipes dirt from the rod as it is retracted. The cylinder has a retracted length of 115.6 ±0.030 cm
(45.5 ±0.012 in) and an extended length of 179.1 ±0.030 cm (70.5 ±0.012 in) from the center of
the mounting fixture to the end of the ball on the barrel. The cylinder weighs approximately
42.5 kg (113.8 lb) dry.
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1. Remove all dirt, grease and other contaminants from around the ports and the head.
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2. Retract the cylinder fully to avoid damaging the rod during removal.
3. Support the base of the cylinder to avoid sudden extension. Secure cylinder in work area
with clamps or a chain vise to prevent rolling.
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4. Position the rod mount with the ports facing down. Use a a means of collecting the oil,
remove the port plugs and the check valve and allow cylinder to drain.
5. Support the rod with a hoist sling and pull the rod to full extension to remove additional
oil. Keeping the rod supported, tap the rod back in 1 inch after all oil has drained.
6. Place protective padding around the rod near the head to prevent damaging the chrome dur-
ing head removal.
7. Insert a spanner wrench into the holes provided and turn the head counter clockwise to
remove. If the head is difficult to remove, tap the head with a plastic mallet while turning.
8. With the rod still supported, gently pull the piston from the barrel being careful not to dam-
age the internal threads. Place the rod on a surface that will not damage the chrome.
10. Insert a spanner wrench into the holes on the face side of the piston.
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12. Remove the wear rings and ring seal from the outside of the piston.
13. Remove the o-rings, backup ring, wear rings, ring seal and wiper ring from the head..
ëiVÌ 1. Inspect the rod. There should be no scratches or pits deep enough to catch the fingernail.
Pits that go to the base metal are unacceptable. Chrome should be present over the entire
surface of the rod. If lack of chrome on rod, the rod should be replaced.
3. Inspect the head. Visually inspect the inside bore for scratching or polishing. Deep
scratches are unacceptable. Polishing indicates uneven loading, and the bore should be
checked for out-of-roundness.
4. Inspect the piston. Visually inspect the outside surface for scratches or polishing, Deep
scratches are unacceptable. Polishing indicates uneven loading, and the diameter should be
checked for out-of roundness.
5. Inspect the barrel carefully for scoring. If barrel is scored, it must be repaired or replaced.
17-46
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6. Thoroughly rinse parts, allow to drain, and wipe with a lint-free rag. Inspect all parts for
serviceability.
7. Flush the barrel and fluid tube. Drain and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth. Compressed air
may be used to blow out barrel port.
8. Inspect the bore of barrel for nicks, gouges or scratches. Replace barrel assembly if any of
these conditions exist.
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4. Wear Rings
5. Rod Seal
6. Wiper
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1. Using round nose pliers or special installation tools, twist the dual lip u-cup seal into a “C”
shape and allow it to snap into groove.
1
2 3
3
1. Sealing O-rings
2. Piston Seal
3. Wear Ring
3. Install the static o-ring and backup ring into the static seal groove verifying that the backup
ring is closest to the threads.
4. Install the sealing o-ring into the groove between the threads and the flange lip.
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5. For easiest installation of the piston seal assembly, warm the teflon outer ring in 120° to
150° F hydraulic oil or water. Lubricate the piston and all components with hydraulic fluid.
6. Stretch the inner ring into the seal groove. Do not use sharp edged tools and verify that it is
not twisted.
10. Install the head followed by the spacer, then the piston onto the rod. Note proper orienta-
tion of each component.
14. Brush piston seals and head seals with hydraulic oil and install rod assembly into barrel.
Alignment is critical. Make sure the seals are not damaged during rod installation. If neces-
sary use a sleeve to cover the seals.
15. Slide the head into the barrel and engage the threads. Turn the head counter clockwise until
the first thread just passes the engagement point, then turn the head clockwise until it is
hand-tight or fully seated. When the head becomes tight, use a mallet or dead blow ham-
mer to knock the spanner wrench an extra 1/8 of a turn.
16. Brush the check valve with hydraulic oil and thread into cavity. Torque to 135.5 to 149.1
(100 to 110 pounds-foot).
ÃÃiLÞ 1. Set test stand pressure to 24,132 kPa/241.3 bar (3500 psi).
3. Connect a ball valve to the “test extend” port (marked “PC” on rod mount) so that the pres-
sure can be released after testing and is not trapped in the valve. Test cylinder through
working ports with ball valve closed.
4. The cylinder shall be stroked its full length in both directions to fill it with oil and remove
trapped oil.
5. Pressurize to recommended test pressure at each end, beginning with the rod end for a min-
imum of 10 seconds per end. While under pressure, cylinder shall be checked for leaks at
weld, SAE fittings, valve, and all external static and dynamic seals. Cycle cylinder com-
pletely (retract and extend) three times under pressure.
6. When testing is complete, relieve pressure on working ports. Slowly open ball valve on PC
port to relieve trapped oil pressure. Plug the extend port (marked “EXT”) and retract the
cylinder with air using a regulator at the RET port and a return line connected to the PC
port. Reclaim all oil. Carefully bleed off air pressure once cylinder is fully retracted.
7. Seal ports with port plugs to prevent contamination from entering cylinder.
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1. Remove cap and install pressure gauge on Port 1 test port (see figure 1).
2. With the Engine running at ,GOH530, Fully Extend the Front Stabilizer, fifth jack.
3. While Pressing the Extend switch and the front stabilizer, activate switch on the outrig-
ger control box, check the pressure and adjust the relief valve to +50/-0 PSI (1.4 +.4/-0
MPa) (see figure 1).
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1. Remove cap and install pressure gauge onto test spud at Front Steering Gear IN port
(see Figure 2).
2. Rev engine to 2000 PRM, steer full right and hold. Adjust relief valve to 2000 ± 50 PSI
(13.8 ±.4 MPa).
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1. Remove cap and install pressure gauge onto test spud at Flow Divider test port (see
Figure 4).
3. Remove and plug hose from REG port Flow Divider. Install cap on open adapter.
4. Run the engine at )8//530 for only 5 - 10 seconds since the flow will be “hot-
looped”. Check Flow divider relief 2300 PSI ± 50 PSI (15.8 ±.4 MPa). (If adjustment is
required, use shims). If this step needs to be repeated, make sure pump is not hot to touch.
If it is, leave cool before proceeding.
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1. Install pressure gauge on Outrigger Selector Valve Test Port (see Figure 5).
2. Run the engine at )8// 530, press the Extend Switch and adjust the Outrigger
Selector Relief Valve to ± 50 PSI (24.2 ±.4 MPa).
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The outriggers, when properly extended and set, provide a rigid four point platform which is
capable of supporting the crane and its maximum load capacity. The outriggers consist of
inverted stabilizer (jack) cylinders with two stage outrigger beams to allow for fully retracted,
partial extension and fully extended operation. A center front stabilizer is provided for stabiliza-
tion during over the front lifting. The front outrigger box is mounted behind the front axles
while the rear outrigger box is mounted behind the rear axles. The front stabilizer is mounted on
the center of a cross member at the front of the crane.
The outrigger beam assembly consists of two separate beams; the jack beam and mid beam.
Both beams retract into the outrigger box. The beam assembly contains the extension cylinder
and the stabilizer cylinder, which is mounted in a tube at the end of the jack beam.
The outrigger circuit consists of an outrigger selector valve, four extension cylinders, five stabi-
lizer (jack) cylinders, a relief valve, a pressure switch, and check valves. Each stabilizer cylinder
has a port block mounted on its side with the pilot-operated check valve threaded into the port
block. The pressure switch is mounted in a port on the center front stabilizer cylinder.
There are three outrigger control panels on the crane. One outrigger control panel is located in
the superstructure cab on the right hand side console. There is also a control panel on either side
of the crane behind the front outriggers.
A sight bubble level is mounted on the right side console in the cab and on each of the side con-
trol panels. The sight bubble level provides the operator with a visual indication of crane level
attitude.
When the outrigger extension cylinder is activated, it extends or retracts the outrigger beam
within the outrigger box. The jack cylinder is mounted to the end of the beam. The jack cylinder
applies force to the outrigger beam vertically. This sequence of events provides for lifting and
stabilizing the crane for operation.
When the selector switch is in the RETRACT position, the flow through the selector valve is to
the rod side of the cylinder. The oil in the barrel side flows through the open solenoid back to
the selector valve and through the swing bank on the way to the reservoir.
The front stabilizer functions similar to any of the other outrigger cylinders. A pressure switch
is used to sense pressure in the barrel end of the cylinder after extension. When the pressure
reaches 31,028 kPa/310.3 bar (4500 psi), the switch causes a red light to be illuminated on the
superstructure front console. This alerts the operator that the center stabilizer is approaching an
overloaded condition.
The inline relief valve prevents over pressurization of the center front stabilizer cylinder. The
valve is installed in line between the solenoid valve and the cylinder, and is set at 1379 kPa/13.8
bar (200 psi).
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,iÛ> 1. Extend the outrigger slightly to facilitate attaching a lifting device to the outrigger beam.
2. From the opposite side of the outrigger housing, remove the end cover.
3. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic lines to the cylinder end of the extension cylinder. Cap all
lines and fittings.
4. On the side of the outrigger housing, remove the two setscrews from the side adjustable
wear pads and back off the wear pads from the housing. Outrigger Beam (with adjustable
Wear pads).
19-7
19-8
2875,**(56
1. Stabilizer Cylinder
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5. Remove the setscrews from the bottom adjustable wear pads and back off the wear pads
leaving approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in) protruding.
6. Remove the bolt, washer, lockwasher and nut securing each hydrualic tube to the outrigger
housing.
7. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin securing the rod of the extension cylinder to the out-
rigger housing.
8. After attaching a suitable lifting device of straps or belts instead of chains to prevent nick-
ing the bottom edges of the outrigger beam, pull the outrigger beam out of the outrigger
box, re-adjusting the lifting attachment to prevent the beam from tipping.
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10. If necessary, remove the wear pads from the bottom of the outrigger box.
Ã>ÃÃiLÞ 1. Remove the two cotter pins and clevis pins securing the extension cylinder barrel lugs to
the brackets on the mid beam.
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2. After attaching a suitable lifting device of straps or belts instead of chains to prevent nick-
ing the bottom edges of the outrigger beam, pull the outrigger jack beam out of the outrig-
ger mid beam, re-adjusting the lifting attachment to prevent the beam from tipping.
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4. Remove the wear pad from the bottom of the outrigger mid beam.
19-9
2875,**(56 706(
5. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin securing the cylinder rod to the jack beam.
6. Slide the extension cylinder from the jack beam being careful not to damage the two hoses.
7. Tag and disconnect the hoses from the tubes in the top of the jack beam. Cap or plug all
openings.
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9. Remove the two clamps, nuts, washers, and lockwashers securing each tube assembly to
the top inside of the jack beam. Remove the tube assemblies.
10. Tag and disconnect the stabilizer cylinder hoses from the tube assemblies in step. Cap or
plug all openings.
11. Tag and disconnect the hoses from the tubes in the trays on the extension cylinder. Cap or
plug all openings.
12. Tag and disconnect the tubes from the cylinder ports and remove the tubes from the trays.
Cap or plug all openings.
13. Remove the bolts, washers, and lockwashers securing the trays to the extension cylinder
and remove the trays.
14. Tag and disconnect the hoses from the stabilizer cylinder. Cap or plug all openings.
15. Remove the stabilizer cylinder from the jack beam. Refer to OUTRIGGER STABILIZER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL in this Section.
ëiVÌ 1. Inspect the hoses, couplings, and end fittings for cracks, chafing, cuts, or other damage.
2. Inspect the outrigger beams for bends, evidence of cracks, or other damage. Check the out-
rigger beam internally for hydraulic fluid, which may indicate a leaking cylinder or dam-
aged hydraulic line.
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1. Install the stabilizer cylinder in the jack beam. Refer to OUTRIGGER STABILIZER CYL-
INDER - INSTALLATION in this Section.
19-10
706( 2875,**(56
2. Connect the hoses, as tagged during disassembly, to the stabilizer cylinder and route them
into the jack beam.
3. Coat the inside of the tube trays with Never-Seeze. Attach the trays to the extension cylin-
der with bolts, washers, and lockwashers.
4. Install the tubes in the trays. Connect the hoses to the tubes as marked during disassembly.
Connect the tubes to the extension cylinder ports.
5. Position the two tube assemblies in the top inside of the jack beam and secure each with
two clamps, nuts, washers, and lockwashers.
6. Position the extension cylinder at the end of the jack beam and connect the hoses to the
tubes in the top of the jack beam as marked during disassembly.
7. Slide the extension cylinder into the jack beam using care not to damage or trap the hoses.
8. Secure the extension cylinder rod to the jack beam using the clevis pin and a cotter pin.
9. Position the wear pad in the pocket in the bottom of the mid beam.
10. After attaching a suitable lifting device of straps or belts instead of chains to prevent nick-
ing the bottom edges of the outrigger beam, slide the outrigger jack beam into the outrigger
mid beam.
11. Place the extension cylinder barrel lugs in the brackets of the mid beam and secure each
with a clevis pin and cotter pin.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Apply grease (EPMPG) to the bottom of the outrigger beam assembly.
2. Install the bottom wear pads with approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in) protruding. This will
prevent the beam side plates from riding on the bottom of the box.
3. Attach a suitable lifting device of straps or belts instead of chains to prevent nicking the
bottom edges of the outrigger beam.
4. Slide the beam into the outrigger housing and align the cylinder rod with the mounting
hole.
5. Secure the cylinder rod to the housing with the clevis pin and cotter pin.
6. Secure the tube assemblies to the housing using bolts, washer, lockwashers and nuts.
19-11
2875,**(56 706(
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9. Adjust the wear pads, refer to Wear Pad Adjustment paragraph that follows.
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1. Adjust the bottom wear pads (approximately 1/4 turn) until a gap of 1.5 mm (0.06 in) is
obtained at the tightest point during full extension. Install and lock set screws against wear
pads.
2. Adjust outrigger box side wear pads until a gap of 1.5 mm (0.06 in) is obtained at the tight-
est point during full extension. Install and lock set screws against wear pads.
19-12
706( 2875,**(56
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The outrigger extension cylinder is a combination unit with two rods, one for extending each
direction. Each “half” of the cylinder is a double-acting type cylinder. The barrel end is attached
to the mid beam. The lower rod is attached to the outrigger box and the upper rod is attached to
the jack (fly) beam.
Each barrel has a 6.4 cm (2.50 inch) diameter bore. Internal seals are used to prevent internal
and external leakage. A wiper ring is mounted to the front of the barrel to wipe dirt from the rod
as it is retracted.
The overall retracted length of the cylinder assembly is 71.94 inches (182.7 cm) from the center
of the rod mounting hole to the center of the other rod mounting hole. The lower barrel has a
stroke of 119.4 cm (47.00 inches) and the upper barrel has a stroke of 130.8 cm (51.50 inches).
The fully extended length is 433 cm (170.44 inches).
19-13
2875,**(56 706(
" /
, "6 1. Remove the outrigger beam. (Refer to OUTRIGGER BEAM REMOVAL in this section).
2. Remove the bolts, pipe clamps, and bolt inserts, securing the hoses to the inside of the
beam.
3. Remove the shaft securing the rod end of the extension cylinder to the outrigger beam.
5. Tag and disconnect the lines to the jack cylinder. Cap all lines and openings.
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3. Secure the hoses in place with the bolts, pipe clamps and bolt inserts.
4. Install the shaft securing the rod end of the extension cylinder to the outrigger beam.
5. Install the outrigger beam. (Refer to OUTRIGGER BEAM INSTALLATION in this sec-
tion).
1
/" Ê 1. Activate the hydraulic system; extend and retract the outrigger.
2. Observe the operation of the outrigger beam.
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The stabilizer cylinders have 14.0 cm (5.50 inch) diameter bores and are the double-acting type.
The cylinders are pinned into tubes welded onto the end of the outrigger beams. A port block is
welded to the end of the cylinder rod and a pilot-operated check valve is threaded into the port
block. Internal seals are used within the cylinder to prevent internal and external leakage. A
wiper ring is mounted to the front of the cylinder barrel to wipe dirt from the rod as it is
retracted.
The cylinders have a retracted length of 109.5 cm (43.12 inches) from the center of the mount-
ing fixture on the barrel to the end of the rod. The fully extended length is 160.3 cm (63.12
inches). The stroke is 50.8 cm (20.00 inches)
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"6 1. Extend the outrigger beam slightly for improved access to the stabilizer cylinder. Shut
down the engine.
2. Tag and disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the stabilizer cylinder.
4. Place a jack capable of supporting the weight of the stabilizer cylinder at the base of the
cylinder barrel. Jack up the cylinder just enough to relieve any pressure on the cylinder
retaining pin.
5. Remove the cotter pins securing the cylinder retaining pin and remove the cylinder retain-
ing pin.
6. Jack the stabilizer cylinder up just enough to insert the retaining pin back into the cylinder.
Insert the retaining pin into the lugs on the cylinder and secure in place with the cotter pins.
19-15
2875,**(56 706(
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7. Fasten a nylon strap onto the cylinder retaining pin and use an adequate lifting device to lift
the stabilizer cylinder out of the tube on the beam assembly.
-//" 1. Place a jack beneath the cylinder tube on the outrigger beam. Using the same method as
described under REMOVAL, lower the stabilizer cylinder into the cylinder tube on the out-
rigger beam until the retaining pin is just above the tube. Position the jack so that it will
support the cylinder in this position. Remove the lifting device from the cylinder.
2. Remove the retaining pin and cotter pins from the cylinder.
3. Lower the jack until the holes in the cylinder rod align with the holes in the outrigger
beam. Secure the cylinder in place with the retaining pin and cotter pins.
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5. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the stabilizer cylinder as marked during disassembly.
1
/" Ê 1. Activate the hydraulic system.
2. Extend and retract the stabilizer cylinder.
19-16
706( 2875,**(56
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The center front stabilizer cylinder has a 8.9 cm (3.5 in) diameter bore and is the double acting
type. The cylinder is pinned into a tube which is welded onto a special cross member on the
front end of the carrier frame. A port block is welded to the end of the cylinder rod and a pilot
operated check valve is threaded into the port block. Internal seals are used within the cylinder
to prevent internal and external leakage. A wiper ring is mounted to the front of the cylinder bar-
rel to wipe dirt from the rod as it is retracted.
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, "6 1. Remove the screws, washers, flatwashers, and hex nuts securing the plate. Remove plate.
2. Remove the bolts, lockwashers, and nuts securing the float pad to the cylinder ball and
remove the float pad.
5. Place a jack capable of supporting the weight of the stabilizer cylinder at the base of the
cylinder barrel. Jack up the cylinder just enough to relieve any pressure on the cylinder
retaining pin.
6. Remove the cotter pins securing the cylinder retaining pin and remove the cylinder retain-
ing pin and cylinder cap retaining bracket.
7. Jack the stabilizer cylinder up just enough to insert the retaining pin back into the cylinder.
Insert the retaining pin into the lugs on the cylinder and secure in place with the cotter pins.
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8. Fasten a nylon strap onto the cylinder retaining pin and use an adequate lifting device to lift
the stabilizer cylinder out of the tube.
19-17
2875,**(56 706(
9. Remove the wear ring from the groove of the cylinder. Remove the wear ring from the
groove in the bottom of the tube.
-//" 1. Apply grease (EPMPG) to the ID of the stabilizer cylinder support tube.
2. If removed, install wear ring in groove in bottom of support tube and in groove at top on
stabilizer cylinder.
3. Place a jack beneath the cylinder tube. Using the same method as described under
REMOVAL, lower the stabilizer cylinder into the cylinder tube until the retaining pin is
just above the tube. Position the jack so that it will support the cylinder in this position.
Remove the lifting device from the cylinder.
4. Remove the retaining pin and cotter pins from the cylinder.
5. Lower the jack until the holes in the cylinder rod align with the holes in the tube. Apply
anti-seeze to the retaining pin. Secure the cylinder and cylinder cap retaining bracket in
place with the retaining pin and cotter pins.
7. Install the cylinder cap and secure with the washers and nuts.
8. Position the float pad on the cylinder ball and secure with bolts, lockwashers, and nuts.
Torque the bolts 97.6 to 105.7 Nm (72 to 78 pounds-foot)
9. Position the plate on the mounting bracket and secure with the screws, washers, flatwash-
ers, and nuts. Torque the screws 40.6 to 43.3 Nm (30 to 32 pounds-foot).
1
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iiÀ> The electrical system is 24-volt operation with 24-volt starting, consisting of an alternator and
two lead-acid batteries. The system is the single wire ground return type, using the machine’s
structure as ground.
Electrical power is transferred to and from the carrier and superstructure through the electrical
swivel.
ÌiÀ>ÌÀ A 100 ampere 24 volt alternator is mounted on the engine and is belt driven. When the engine is
running, and the alternator is turning, the alternator’s 24-volt output terminal supplies the
crane’s electrical circuits. The output terminal also supplies the voltage to recharge the batteries
and maintains it at a full state of charge.
>ÌÌiÀÞ The batteries are located in a box on the left side of the carrier behind the cab. The battery is the
maintenance free type and is completely sealed except for a small vent hole in the side. The vent
hole allows what small amount of gases that are produced in the battery to escape. On some bat-
teries, a test indicator located on the top of the battery is used to determine if the battery can be
tested in case of a starting problem.
In addition to the batteries, the battery box also contains a manual disconnect switch, two 100
amp fuses, one 30 amp fuse, and one 30 amp circuit breaker. The fuses and circuit breaker pro-
tect all electrical circuits except the starter circuit and alternator.
>ÀÀiÀÊÕÃiÊ>`Ê,i Most carrier electrical circuits are protected by the components of the relay and the fuse panel
>ÞÊ*>i located to the rear of the side console in the carrier cab. Access is gained by removing the cover.
The fuse and relay panel contains 13 relays, a flasher, a buzzer, and 24 fuses. A decal in the
cover identities each fuse and its function. Fuses 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 12, 17 and 18 are energized
when the batteries are connected. Fuses 2, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24 are energized when the bat-
teries are connected and the headlight switch is on. Fuses 5, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15, and 16 are ener-
gized when the batteries are connected and the ignition switch is in the ignition (run) or
accessory (ACC) position.
-- Fuse 4 protects the outrigger control circuit and daytime running lights.
-- Fuse 5 protects the console lamps, gauges, buzzer, switch LED’s, fan clutch, and the
charge air cooler circuit.
-- Fuse 7 protects the windshield washer/wiper and optional beacon light circuits.
-- Fuse 11 protects the air conditioner condenser fan circuit (S/S mode).
-- Fuse 13 protects the air conditioner condenser fans (carrier), air conditioner clutch/fan,
heater/defroster circuits.
20-2
706( (/(&75,&$/6<67(0
-- Fuse 19 protects one half of the marker and clearance lights, cab I.D., and License
lights circuit.
-- Fuse 20 protects the one half of the marker and clearance lights and the rear I.D lights
circuit.
-- Fuse 24 protects the left headlight high beam and the high beam indicator light cir-
cuits.
-- Circuit breaker 25 is inside the battery box compartment. It protects the headlights,
marker lights, and gauge lights circuits.
-- Fuses 52 and 53 are inside the battery box compartment. These fuses protect the elec-
trical power system.
-- An in-line fuse (F3) downstream from the start relay (K301) protects the optional auto
cold start circuit.
-- An in-line fuse (F54) is located in the battery compartment. It is an in-line fuse to pro-
tect the direct battery input to the engine ECM.
,i>ÞÃ The carrier has 13 relays which control many of its functions. Relays K101 and K103 through
K116 are located in the cab fuse and relay panel assembly. Relay K301 is located on the left side
of the engine hood. When any relay coil is energized, its contacts either open or close. This
allows power to go to or be removed from the related circuits.
For any relay coil to energize, the battery must be connected. The coil of the start relay (K301)
is energized when the transmission is in neutral and either ignition switch is at START (2) posi-
tion.
The coil of the accessory relay (K101) is energized when the ignition switch is at the RUN (1)
or ACC (3) position. The coil of the charge air cooler relay (K103) is energized by the engine
ECM. The coil of the power select relay (K104) is energized when the carrier ignition switch is
in RUN (1) or ACC (3) position. The coil of the outrigger enable relay (K105) is energized
when the park brake on indicator pressure switch contacts are closed. The coil of horn relay
(K106) is energized when the horn button is depressed. The coil of the air dryer heater relay
(K107) is energized when the contacts of accessory relay K101 are closed. The coil of back up
relay (K108) is energized when the contacts of back up switch on the transmission are closed.
The coil of the superstructure APS relay (K113) is energized when the superstructure ignition
20-3
(/(&75,&$/6<67(0 706(
switch is in run or ACC position. The coil of relay (K114) is energized when the ignition switch
is in the run or ACC position.
The coil of the superstructure carrier relay (K109) is energized when the superstructure ignition
switch is in the run or ACC position. The coil of the daytime running lights relay (K110) is
energized when the carrier ignition switch is in run or ACC and the park brake is not on. The
coil of the superstructure AC relay (K116) is energized when the superstructure ignition switch
is in the run or ACC position.
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2. Test the suspect component per instructions in this section. The instructions identify the
fuses and components and guide you from the easiest and most likely problems to the hard-
est and least likely problems.
3. Using a multimeter, test the circuit for continuity if you suspect a broken circuit or for volt-
age if you suspect a power problem. Check the electrical schematic and wiring diagram for
most accurate wiring information.
4. If the component proves faulty, replace it with a known working component. If wiring
proves faulty, replace it with wiring of equal wire gauge.
5. After troubleshooting, if the circuit proves faulty, repair and then test to ensure the circuit
works properly.
1. Verify the battery terminals are connected and clean, the transmission is in neutral, and the
machine is fueled.
3. Try to turn on the head lights, tail lights, marker lights, dome light, work light, or gauge
lights and panel lights to verify the batteries have at least some charge. If none of these
lights comes on, suspect the batteries. Charge batteries as needed, or replace the batteries if
you can jump-start the crane from another crane.
4. If you hear the starter relay clicking repeatedly, power is reaching the starter, but not
enough. Suspect the batteries. Charge batteries as needed, or replace the batteries if you
can jump-start the crane from another crane.
20-5
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5. Turn the ignition switch(es)) to RUN (1). Using a multimeter, check for 24 volts on the “I”
post of ignition switch(es). If there is not 24 volts (but the head lights, tail lights, marker
lights, dome light, work light, or gauge lights and panel lights will come on), suspect the
ignition switch(es) and the power circuit to it starting at the ignition switch(es) fuse (F3).
Repair or replace circuit, switch, or fuse as needed.
6. If the batteries, fuses, ignition switch(es), and power circuit to the ignition switch check
out, do one of the following:
a. If you hear no noise when you try to turn the starter, troubleshoot the start circuit (igni-
tion switch, electric shifter, neutral start switch and wiring from ignition switch to
starter relay). Make repairs as needed.
b. If the engine still won’t start, and you hear no noise or just a single click, suspect the
starter. Troubleshoot the start circuit from the starter relay through the starter solenoid
to the starter motor and ground. Make repairs as needed. If the starter solenoid or the
starter motor is faulty, replace the starter.
c. If the starter engages but can’t turn the engine (and the lights dim, signaling power
drain during start attempt), check the starter’s feed circuit from the batteries for resis-
tance. If the resistance is high, make repairs. If the circuit checks out, replace the
starter. If the engine still won’t start, suspect a seized engine.
d. If the starter turns the engine, but it still won’t start, suspect a faulty engine control sys-
tem. Refer to the engine manual for further instructions.
e. If the engine starts, then shuts down, suspect a faulty engine control system. Refer to
the engine manual for further instructions.
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1. Verify battery terminals are connected and clean and all wires in the charging system are in
good repair and are connected properly.
2. Verify the alternator belt is properly installed and is under proper tension.
3. Verify the batteries put out 24 volts minimum. Charge battery as needed so the battery can
supply a minimum excitation voltage to the engine’s charging system.
4. Verify there is a minimum of 24 volts at the alternator from the batteries, and that the alter-
nator is properly grounded.
20-6
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If the crane’s engine starts and charges properly, but none of its components except the horn or
lights work, the accessory circuitry may be faulty. Check as follows:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC (3) position. Try to turn on the cab circulating fan, the
heater fan, the defroster fan, or the windshield wipers or washer. If none of these come on
(but the head lights, tail lights, marker lights, dome light, work light, or gauge lights and
panel lights will come on), there is an accessory circuitry problem.
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2. Check the primary power circuit to the accessory relay K101. Make circuit repairs as
needed.
3. If the problem remains, check the ignition switch and the accessory control circuit from the
ignition switch through the coil of the accessory relay K101 to ground. Turn the ignition
switch to the ACC (3) position and listen for audible click of relay K101. If the relay does
not click on, then there is no power through the switch when it is in the ACC (3) position.
20-7
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Replace ignition switch if there is no power through it when in the ACC (3) position. Make
circuit repairs to accessory control circuit as needed.
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4. If the problem remains, check the accessory relay K101 contact and the accessory power
circuit. Replace relay if its contacts stay open when the coil is energized. Make circuit
repairs as needed.
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Many crane component electrical troubles can be traced to the electrical swivel. Troubles com-
mon to the swivel are improper mounting, foreign material between the brushes and slip rings,
incorrect wiring from the swivel to the components, incorrect wire size, worn brushes, improper
spring tension on the brush assembly, and loose setscrews on the slip ring assembly. Refer to the
electrical schematic and wiring diagram for slip ring connections and amperages.
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The cause of an electrical problem may be a loose or corroded connection in the pin or socket
connectors. Check the connectors to ensure that the pins and sockets are properly seated and
engaged. If the pins and sockets show any signs of corrosion, use a good quality electrical con-
tact cleaner or fine sandpaper to clean them. When the pins or sockets show signs of arcing or
burning, it will probably be necessary to replace them.
20-8
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Refer to the following tables listing tools necessary for connector maintenance.
Because the pins and sockets are crimped to the wires, it is not possible to remove them. Using
the proper extraction tool, remove the pin(s) or socket(s) from the plug or receptacle. Cut the
wire as close to the pin or socket as possible. After cutting the pin or socket off, the wire will
most likely be too short. Using a wire that is too short will allow pressure to be applied to the
pin or socket and wire where they are crimped when the pin or socket is inserted in the plug or
receptacle. Add a short length of the same size wire to the short wire by crimp splice or solder.
Use heat shrinkable tubing or other suitable material to insulate the splice.
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2. If all lamps in a circuit do not work, suspect circuit breaker and switch. Reset circuit
breaker if tripped.
3. Check the switch and circuit for continuity problems and other problems. Repair any faulty
switch or other component. Repair wiring if faulty.
The following carrier circuit designs apply (connecting wiring and passage through swivel
slip ring -- as applicable -- is understood):
20-9
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-- Head lights. CB25, HEADLIGHTS switch, dimmer switch, F21, F22, F23, or F24,
lamps, grounds.
-- Turn signal lights. F17, flasher, turn signal switch, lamps, grounds. Suspect turn signal
switch if hazard light circuit functions properly.
-- Hazard lights. F17, flasher, hazard lights switch, lamps, grounds. Suspect hazard lights
switch if turn signal lights circuit functions properly.
-- Stop lights. F18, stop light switches, turn signal switch, lamps (suspect stop circuit
problem if turn signal or tail light function works), grounds.
-- Beacon light. F7, BEACON light switch, lamp, ground. Parallel circuit to LED indica-
tor in switch to ground.
-- Cab dome light. F10, switch on dome light, parallel circuit through door switch, lamp,
ground.
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1. Check all other gauges and meters (besides the suspect). If none of them are working,
replace F5 (carrier) or F9 (superstructure).
2. Check the gauge or meter, its sensing component, and circuit for continuity problems and
other problems. A sender is probably at fault when it shows infinite resistance, or resis-
tance out of specifications for condition. Repair any faulty gauge, meter or other compo-
nent. Repair wiring if faulty.
The following carrier circuit design apply (connecting wiring and passage through swivel
slip ring -- as applicable -- is understood):
-- Fuel level gauge. F5, gauge. Gauge is grounded. Branch from gauge to sending unit in
fuel tank to ground.
20-10
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-- Engine oil pressure gauge. F5, gauge. Gauge is grounded. Branch from gauge to oil
pressure sending unit to ground.
-- Engine coolant temperature gauge. F5, gauge. Gauge is grounded. Branch from gauge
to coolant temperature sending unit to ground.
-- Speedometer. F5, gauge. Gauge is grounded. Branch from speedometer to sending unit
on transmission and back to speedometer.
3. Repair is straightforward. For a gauge or meter, replace fuse if blown, remove gauge or
meter, install new gauge or meter, install new circuit breaker, then test gauge or meter. For
a sender, reset circuit breaker, remove sender, install new sender, install new circuit
breaker, then test sender and gauge or meter. See INSTRUMENT REPLACEMENT in this
section for details on removing and installing gauges and meters.
1. If an indicator won’t work when it is supposed to, check its lamp first. Replace any defec-
tive lamp. Then check and replace fuse as applicable, especially if all other components
downstream from the fuse are not working. Also, check and replace its relay as applicable.
2. If an alarm or an emergency component won’t work when it is supposed to, check and
replace its fuse, especially when all other components downstream from the fuse are not
working. Also, check and replace its relay as applicable.
3. Check the alarm or indicator or emergency component, its sensing component, and circuit
for continuity problems and other problems. Repair any faulty alarm or indicator or emer-
gency component or sensing device (switch, relay, sending unit). Repair wiring if faulty.
The following carrier circuit designs apply (connecting wiring and passage through swivel
slip ring -- as applicable -- is understood):
-- Backup light and backup alarm. F14, backup switch, relay K108, then to backup lights
in parallel with backup alarm; then from lights and alarm to grounds.
-- Park brake indicator. F5, indicator, normally closed park brake pressure switch on cab
front console control valve, ground.
-- Steering wheel horn. F6, horn relay K106 coil, horn switch, ground. Parallel branch
from horn relay contacts, horn, ground.
-- Low air pressure indicator. F5, to indicator or buzzer to two parallel normally closed
pressure switches on the dual brake valve.
-- Tire inflation on indicator. F5, to indicator or buzzer to the normally open pressure
switch on the cab front console control valve to ground.
20-11
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-- Swing brake on indicator. F5, to indicator or buzzer to the normally open pressure
switch on the cab front console mounted trailer brake control valve to normally open
pressure switch on the trailing boom swing brake valve on the superstructure to
ground.
-- Suspension deflated indicator. F5 to indicator to four (one at each air bag suspension)
normally closed pressure switches connected in series to ground.
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1. If a crane component or accessory won’t work when it is supposed to, check and replace
fuse. Also check and replace its relay as needed.
2. Check the component or accessory, its control or triggering component, and its circuit for
continuity problems and other problems. Repair any faulty component or accessory or trig-
ger. Repair wiring if faulty.
The following carrier circuit designs apply (connecting wiring and passage through swivel
slip ring -- as applicable -- is understood):
-- Windshield wiper motor and windshield washer pump motor. F7, wiper/washer switch,
motors in parallel, grounds.
-- Auto cold start. starter solenoid, inline 15 amp fuse, engine temperature switch, auto
cold start solenoid valve, ground.
-- Air dryer heater. F9 to air dryer relay (K107) contacts to air dryer temperature switch,
to heating element to ground.
-- Outrigger enable circuit. Carrier F5 to outrigger enable relay (K105) coil to park brake
on indicator circuit pressure switch contacts to ground.
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3. Tag and disconnect the electrical leads from the terminals on the alternator.
4. Turn the tensioner above the alternator clockwise to remove tension from the belt. Slip the
belt off of the alternator pulley, then let the tensioner return to its normal position.
5. Remove the two bolts attaching the alternator to the mounting bracket. Remove the alterna-
tor.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Inspect the belt. Verify it has no cracks or other damage. Replace damaged belt as needed.
2. Place the alternator on the mounting bracket. Secure the alternator with the bolts. Torque
bottom bolt to 47 Nm (35 ft lb). Torque top bolt to 80 Nm (60 ft lb).
3. Install the belt on all engine pulleys except the alternator pulley for now.
4. Turn the tensioner clockwise. Slip the belt onto the alternator pulley, then carefully return
the tensioner to its normal position so it puts tension on the belt. Make sure the belt is cen-
tered on the tensioner.
iV 1. Run engine. Verify reading of voltmeter on front console is 24 volts or greater. Make
repairs as needed.
20-13
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3. Tag and disconnect the electrical leads from the terminals on the starter.
4. Remove the bolts holding the starter to the mounting pad. Remove the starter.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Place the starter on its mounting pad. Secure the starter with the bolts.
iV 1. Try to start the engine. Verify the starter starts the engine.
2. Start engine again, and listen for starter noises. Verify there is no abnormal noise indicating
the starter’s gear is meshing improperly with the flywheel, that the starter’s gear hasn’t dis-
engaged from the flywheel after the ignition switch is in the ignition (run) position, or
some other problem. Install starter properly as needed.
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2. Make sure all key switches have been off for two minutes before disconnecting the batter-
ies.
4. Disconnect all harness and cable connections to the battery positive posts.
5. Disconnect all harness and cable connections to the battery negative posts.
6. Remove the nuts and washers from the bracket hold-down rods. Remove the hold-down
bracket.
2. Install the hold down bracket so it can hold down the batteries. Secure the bracket (and bat-
teries) to the bracket hold down rods with nuts and washers.
3. Make sure the battery disconnect switch is in the disconnect position and all key switches
are in the “OFF” position.
4. Connect all harness and cable connections to the battery negative posts.
5. Connect all harness and cable connections to the battery positive posts.
7. Verify replacement batteries work by starting crane’s engine and operating various crane
components.
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3. Tag and disconnect the electrical leads from the suspect relay or flasher.
4. Remove the hardware securing the suspect relay or flasher to the relay panel assembly.
Remove suspect relay or flasher.
5. Install replacement relay or flasher on relay panel and secure it with attaching hardware.
6. Connect the electrical leads to the relay or flasher as tagged during removal.
20-15
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9. Verify proper installation by operating all components involved with the replacement relay
and verifying they all work. Verify proper operation of the flasher by operating the turnsig-
nals or hazard lights.
3. Unscrew the plastic collar ring from back of the panel and remove the buzzer from the hole
in the panel.
4. Install replacement buzzer through the hole in panel and secure with the plastic collar ring.
7. Verify proper operation by positioning the ignition switch to RUN (1). Buzzer should
sound when engine is not running.
5. Verify proper installation by operating all components involved with the replacement relay
and verifying they all work.
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2. Remove the hardware securing the console cover and remove the cover.
3. Tag and disconnect the electrical wiring or air lines from the instrument.
4. Remove the hardware securing the instrument to the console panel. (Typically, remove nuts
and lockwashers, and then a bracket or clamp.) Pull the instrument through the front of the
console panel and remove it.
20-16
706( (/(&75,&$/6<67(0
ëiVÌ 1. Examine the instrument for cracked and broken lenses. Check instrument terminals,
bracket or clamp, and mounting studs for damage. Replace damaged instrument; repair or
replace damaged connecting hardware.
2. Check wiring for damaged insulation or damaged connectors. Make repairs as needed.
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Put the instrument in place on the console panel and secure it with the attaching hardware.
2. Connect the electrical wiring or air lines to the instrument as marked during removal.
3. Position the console cover on the console and secure with the attaching hardware.
iV 1. Start the engine and verify that the instrument works. (Refer to Operator’s and Safety
Handbook.)
2. As needed, troubleshoot further any system malfunction not corrected by repair or replace-
ment of the instrument or associated wiring.
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2. Remove the hardware securing the console cover and remove the cover.
4. Depress the plastic tabs on top and bottom of switch and pull the switch through the front
of the console panel to remove it.
ëiVÌ 1. Visually check the switch for evidence of cracks, damaged connections, or other damage.
Replace damaged switch as needed.
a. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the switch terminals with switch at
ON or activated position(s). Ohmmeter should register zero ohms (continuity).
20-17
(/(&75,&$/6<67(0 706(
b. Place switch at OFF or deactivated position. Ohmmeter should register infinity (no
continuity).
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Place the switch on the console panel and secure it by pushing the switch into the panel,
until it snaps into place.)
3. Position the console cover on the console and secure with the attaching hardware.
iV 1. Operate the switch per the Operator’s and Safety Handbook. Verify each of its functions
works.
2. As needed, troubleshoot further any system or circuit malfunction not corrected by repair
or replacement of the switch or associated wiring.
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2. Remove the hardware securing the console cover and remove the cover.
4. On the front of the console panel, remove the nut securing the switch to the panel. As nec-
essary, remove the knob from the switch first.
ëiVÌ 1. Visually check the switch for evidence of cracks, damaged connections, or other damage.
Replace damaged switch as needed.
a. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the switch terminals with switch at
ON or activated position(s). Ohmmeter should register zero ohms (continuity).
b. Place switch at OFF or deactivated position. Ohmmeter should register infinity (no
continuity).
20-18
706( (/(&75,&$/6<67(0
ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Place the switch through the hole in the front console panel and secure to the front of the
panel with the nut. Install the knob on switch as necessary.
3. Position the console cover on the console and secure with the attaching hardware.
iV 1. Operate the switch per the Operator’s and Safety Handbook. Verify each of its functions
works.
2. As needed, troubleshoot further any system or circuit malfunction not corrected by repair
or replacement of the switch or associated wiring.
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3. Disconnect the washer hose on the wiper arm (also called the pantograph arm assembly)
from the washer nozzle fitting assembly.
4. Remove the cap nut and washer securing the wiper arm to the pantograph adapter kit. (The
nut and washer are part of the pantograph adapter kit.) Remove the cap nut, washer, and
tapered sleeve securing the wiper arm to the pivot shaft kit. (The nut, washer, and sleeve
are part of the pivot shaft kit.)
5. Remove the wiper arm from the pantograph adapter kit and the pivot shaft kit.
6. Remove the flanged sleeve, nut, and two flat washers from the pivot shaft kit. (The sleeve,
nut, and washers are part of the pivot shaft kit.)
7. Remove the two capscrews and lockwashers securing the pantograph adapter kit’s adapter
to the cab exterior. Remove the pantograph adapter kit’s adapter and gasket.
8. Remove attaching hardware to free the windshield wiper motor bracket from the cab inte-
rior. Remove the bracket, with motor and pivot shaft connected, from the cab.
20-19
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9. Remove the nut to free the wiper motor’s shaft from the wiper motor kit crank. Remove the
three screws and washers to free the wiper motor from its bracket. Remove the wiper motor
from its bracket. Leave the other parts attached to the bracket for now.
ëiVÌ 1. Visually check the motor housing for evidence of cracks or other damage. Check for exces-
sive shaft end play indicating worn or damaged bearings. Replace motor if damaged.
2. Inspect the wiper blade for serviceability. Replace wiper blade when worn.
3. Inspect the wiper arm and parts of the linking component kits (pantograph adapter kit,
pivot shaft kit, wiper motor kit link and crank, wiper motor bracket) for damage. Replace
as needed.
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ÃÌ>>Ì 1. Verify the pivot shaft and the wiper motor kit link and crank are in place on the motor
bracket. (Washers and clip springs fasten the link to the pivot pins on the crank and the
pivot shaft. The pivot shaft’s pivot pin mounts in the hole nearest the end of the pivot
shaft’s lever.)
2. Connect the wiper motor to the motor bracket with screws and washers. Connect the wiper
motor’s shaft to the wiper motor kit crank with the nut and washer.
3. Secure the adapter and the gasket of the pantograph adapter kit to the cab exterior with cap-
screws and lockwashers.
20-20
706( (/(&75,&$/6<67(0
4. Install the motor bracket and attached parts in the cab interior with attaching hardware.
Ensure the pivot shaft sticks through the hole in the pantograph adapter kit.
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5. Secure the pivot shaft to the pantograph adapter with the pivot shaft kit’s nut and washers.
Install the flanged sleeve on the pivot shaft.
6. Install the wiper arm on the shafts of the pantograph adapter kit and the pivot shaft kit.
Secure the wiper arm to the pantograph adapter kit shaft with the kit’s own washer and cap
nut. Secure the wiper arm to the pivot shaft with the pivot shaft kit’s own tapered sleeve,
washer, and cap nut.
7. Connect the wiper arm’s washer hose to the washer nozzle fitting assembly.
8. Connect the electrical leads to the wiper motor as marked before removal.
iV 1. Squirt some cleaning fluid onto the windshield with the windshield washer.
2. Operate the windshield wiper. Verify it works. (Replace wiper blade as needed if it streaks
or otherwise wipes poorly.)
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3. Tag and disconnect the pump’s electrical lead and ground wire.
4. Disconnect the hose from the windshield washer pump. Point it so it won’t spill cleaning
fluid. Catch cleaning fluid from the windshield washer container with a suitable container.
5. Remove four self tapping screws securing the windshield washer container. Remove the
windshield washer container and pump.
ëiVÌ 1. Visually check the pump for evidence of cracks, leaks, or other damage. Replace pump if
damaged.
2. Inspect the container for leaking. Replace pump seal if it is leaking. Replace container if it
is damaged and leaking.
3. Inspect spray nozzle on the wiper arm. As needed, clean the nozzle with a fine piece of
wire and compressed air.
2. Install windshield washer container. Secure the container with four self tapping screws.
4. Connect the pump’s electrical lead and ground wire as tagged during removal.
iV 1. Squirt some cleaning fluid onto the windshield with the windshield washer.
20-22
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Following the designated lubrication procedures is important in ensuring maximum crane life-
time and utilization. The procedures and lubrication charts in this section include information
on the types of lubricants used, the location of the lubrication points, the frequency of lubrica-
tion, and other information.
The service intervals specified are for normal operation where moderate temperature, humidity,
and atmospheric conditions prevail. In areas of extreme conditions, the service periods and
lubrication specifications should be altered to meet existing conditions. For information on
extreme condition lubrication, contact your local Manitowoc/Grove distributor or Manitowoc
CraneCARE.
ÀVÌVÊ
`ÌÃÊ In general, petroleum based fluids developed especially for low temperature service may be
iÜÊ£ncÊ
ÊäcÊ® used with satisfactory results. However, certain fluids, such as halogenated hydrocarbons, nitro
hydrocarbons, and phosphate ester hydraulic fluids, might not be compatible with hydraulic
system seals and wear bands. If you are in doubt about the suitability of a specific fluid, check
with your authorized Manitowoc/Grove distributor or Manitowoc CraneCARE.
Regardless of temperature and oil viscosity, always use suitable start-up procedures to ensure
adequate lubrication during system warm-up.
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A regular frequency of lubrication must be established for all lubrication points. Normally, this
is based on component operating time. The most efficient method of keeping track of lube
requirements is to maintain a job log indicating crane usage. The log must use the engine hour-
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meter to ensure coverage of lube points that will receive attention based on their readings. Other
lubrication requirements must be made on a time basis, i.e. weekly, monthly etc.
All oil levels are to be checked with the crane parked on a level surface in transport position,
and while the oil is cold, unless otherwise specified.
On plug type check points, the oil levels are to be at the bottom edge of the check port.
On all hoists with a check plug in the drum, the fill plug shall be directly on top of the hoist, and
the check plug level.
All grease fittings are SAE STANDARD unless otherwise indicated. Grease non-sealed fittings
until grease is seen extruding from the fitting. 0.28 kg (1 oz) of EP-MPG equals one pump on a
standard 0.45 kg (1 lb) grease gun.
Over lubrication on non-sealed fittings will not harm the fittings or components, but under lubri-
cation will definitely lead to a shorter lifetime.
On sealed U-joints, care must be exercised to prevent rupturing seals. Fill only until expansion
of the seals first becomes visible.
Unless otherwise indicated, items not equipped with grease fittings, such as linkages, pins,
levers etc., should be lubricated with oil once a week. Motor oil, applied sparingly, will provide
the necessary lubrication and help prevent the formation of rust. An Anti-Seize compound may
be used if rust has not formed, otherwise the component must be cleaned first.
Grease fittings that are worn and will not hold the grease gun, or those that have a stuck check
ball, must be replaced.
Where wear pads are used, cycle the components and relubricate to ensure complete lubrication
of the entire wear area.
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AFC Antifreeze/Coolant - SAE J1941, Cummins Engine 90T8-4, ASTM D6210
EO Engine Oil - SAE 15W-40, API Service Classification CH-4.
EP-MPG Extreme Pressure Multipurpose Grease - Lithium Soap Base, NLGI Grade
2.
SGL-5 Synthetic Gear Lubricant - SAE 50, API Gravity 23.
HYDO Hydraulic Oil - Must meet John Deere Standard JDM-J20C, Allison C4,
and ISO 4406 level.
SSGL-5 Semi-Synthetic Gear Lubricant - SAE Grade 80W-90, API Service Desig-
nation GL-5.
ASC Anti-Seize Compound - MIL Spec MIL-A-907E
01930670 Hydraulic Oil - ATF 66 M Avia Fluid
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EP-OGL Open Gear Lubricant, CEPLATTYN 300 Spray, NLGI Class 1-2
RO-PAG Refrigerant Oil (Polyalkylene Glycol)
R-134a HFC Refrigerant (Hydrofluorocarbon)
High-Lub SW 2 Spray, Oil Base, NLGI Grade 2-1
The following describe the lubrication points and gives the lube type, lube interval, lube amount
and application of each. Each lubrication point is numbered, and this number corresponds to the
index number shown on the Lubrication Diagram.
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Lube Amount - Apply lubricant whenever wheels are removed for service
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Lube Amount - Capacity - 57 pints (27 liters) Normal makeup - less than 0.5 pint (0.23
liter)
Application - Fill to bottom of hole in the housing.
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DSSURYHGE\ $UYLQPHULWRU7KHVHOXEULFDQWV DUHOLVWHGLQ$UYLQPHULWRUIRUPHUO\
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Lube Amount - Capacity - 37 pints (17.5 liters) Normal makeup - less than 0.5 pint (0.23
liter)
Application - Fill to bottom of hole in the housing.
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Drain water trap every 10 hours or daily and change filter every 500 hours or 6 months.
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Replace air cleaner filter element when indicator shows red (25” H2O).
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Lube Interval - Check and fill every 50 hours. Drain and fill every 1000 hours or 12 months
thereafter.
Lube Amount -
SOM Gearbox - Capacity - 5.28 quarts (5 liters)
Application - Fill mark on dipstick
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70. Inner Mid Upper Wear Pads 80. Boom Extension Sheave
71. Center Mid Upper Wear Pads 81. Mast Sheave
72. Outer Mid Upper Wear Pads 82 Tele 4 Boom Locking Pin
73. Fly Upper Wear Pads 83. Tele 3 Boom Locking Pin
74. Telescope Slide Faces 84. Tele 2 Boom Locking Pin
75. Derricking Cylinder Pivot Pin 85. Tele 1 Boom Locking Pin
76. 10 M Section Pivot Pin
77. Hookblock Sheaves
78. Hookblock Swivel Bearing
79. Headache Ball Swivel Top
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The following items used in this procedure can be ordered from Manitowoc CraneCARE:
*Ài«>À}Ê/
iÊ
À>i Due to a risk of overturning the crane when the boom is in the horizontal position, the following
guidelines must be followed:
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Before lowering or extending the boom, the following conditions must be met:
2. Configure the crane with full outrigger span and at least 4.0 ton of counterweight installed.
3. Enter the SLI rigging code for the current rigging mode of the crane.
ÕLÀV>Ì}Ê/iiÊ 1. Set the boom angle to horizontal (0 degree) and unlock the locking pins of tele 4. Gain
V}Ê*Ê{ access to the left hand locking pins behind the superstructure cab.
2. Turn the curved end of the spray nozzle extension piece horizontally to the side (refer to
figure titled, Tele 4 Left Hand Side Pin) so that it is pointing rearwards and insert it through
the access hole (situated in front of the step on the boom section) until it contacts the con-
necting link, then retract the spray nozzle extension piece by about 1 to 2 cm (refer to fig-
ure titled, Spray Nozzle Extension - Tele 4 Pin). The nozzle is now in position to be able to
lubricate the pin.
3. Apply 2 shots of lubricating oil onto the locking pin and then withdraw the spray nozzle
extension piece from inside the access hole. Repeat the process for the right hand locking
pin.
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4. Unlock and lock the pin several times to enable the oil to spread around the pin and into the
bore.
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ÕLÀV>Ì}Ê/iiÊ 1. Set the boom angle to horizontal (0° degree) and unlock the locking pins of tele 3. Gain
V}Ê*ÊÎ access to the left hand locking pins behind the superstructure cab.
2. Turn the curved end of the spray nozzle extension piece vertically down and insert it
through the access hole (situated behind the step on the boom section) until it contacts the
connecting link, and then retract the spray nozzle extension piece by about 1 to 2 cm (refer
to figure titled, Tele 3 Left Hand Side Pin). The nozzle is now in position to be able to
lubricate the pin.
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3. Apply 2 shots of lubricating oil onto the locking pin and then withdraw the spray nozzle
extension piece from inside the access hole (refer to figure titled, Spray Nozzle Extension -
Tele 3 Pin). Repeat process for the right hand locking pin.
4. Unlock and lock the pin several times to enable the oil to spread around the pin and into the
bore.
ÕLÀV>Ì}Ê/iiÊ 1. Raise the boom until the left hand side access holes for tele 1 lock pin and tele 2 lock pin
V}Ê*Ê£Ê>`ÊÓ are accessible behind the cab. Unlock the locking pins of tele 2.
2. Turn the curved end of the spray nozzle extension piece vertically down and insert it
through the access hole (situated directly behind tele 3 access hole) until it contacts the
connecting link, then retract the spray nozzle extension piece by about 1 to 2 cm. The noz-
zle is now in position to be able to lubricate the pin.
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3. Unlock and lock the pin several times to enable the oil to spread around the pin and into the
bore. Repeat this procedure for tele 1 (through the access hole situated directly behind tele
2).
4. Lubricate all of the right hand side locking pins using the same procedure. If there is a
swingaway mounted on the side of the boom, then it must either be removed or erected on
the boom head following the correct procedure in this manual.
7ÀiÊ,«iÊÕLÀV>Ì
Wire rope is lubricated during manufacturing so that the strands, and individual wires in strands,
may move as the rope moves and bends. A wire rope cannot be lubricated sufficiently during
manufacture to last its entire life. Therefore, new lubricant must be added periodically through-
out the life of a rope to replace factory lubricant which is used or lost. For more detailed infor-
mation concerning the lubrication and inspection of wire rope, refer to HOIST ROPE in Section
8 - DESCRIPTION OF MAINTENANCE ON THE SUPERSTRUCTURE in the Service Man-
ual.
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