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Food Fair 2022 Article
Food Fair 2022 Article
Food Fair 2022 Article
Introduction
Kenya held its first Indigenous Seeds and Food Culture Harvest Fair at the National Museums of
Kenya (Nairobi) on the 12th,13th, and 14th of October 2022. The key objective of the event was
to promote indigenous seeds and traditional food culture in Kenya. The event's key highlights
were; the exhibition of Indigenous seeds and traditional foods and dishes and the panelists'
discussions on various topics around Indigenous seeds and food (1,2).
The event was organized by Participatory Ecological Land Use Management (PELUM) association
in collaboration with; the National Museum of Kenya (NMK), Biodiversity and Biosafety (BIBA),
Inter-Sectoral Forum on Agroecology and Agro biodiversity (ISFAA), Africa Biodiversity Network
(ABN), HIVOs, Seed Savers Network (SSN) and Heinrich Boll Foundation (HBF). Farmers across the
country were invited to display traditional seeds, and nine communities’ representatives were
also invited to cook and display foods at the venue. Many schools, agricultural training
institutions, government institutions and leaders, local media and bloggers and traditional food
enthusiasts attended the fair.
The fair's theme attracted unusual attention as Kenya, early in the same month, had lifted a 10-
year ban on the cultivation and importation of GMO crops, which were seen as a threat to local
seed varieties. With support from the Alliance of Biodiversity International and CIAT, Kenya
Resource Centre for Indigenous Knowledge (KENRIK) section at NMK documented 32 traditional
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food recipes presented by the nine participating communities and also collected samples of
traditional seeds for seed bulking and educational purposes. This paper presents the results of
our documentation work on the event. It also highlights the significance of such gastronomic
events in promoting the use of underutilized wild edible foods for a healthier diet and better
nutrition.
Methodology
Two representatives from each of the nine community groups were invited to cook and showcase
their traditional foods (Table 1). This group's representatives were from different ethnic
backgrounds, including the Kamba, Busia, Teso, Maragoli, Marachi, Mbeere, Giriama, Tharaka, and
Borana. Various organizations sponsored these groups to attend the event. The foods were
prepared using traditional techniques, served in traditional utensils, and later displayed and sold
to event attendees in stands set up at the event. The exhibitors presented their prepared foods,
traditional utensils, and seeds. Two judges assessed the seed exhibition, two other judges
assessed foods on display for awarding based. We documented the traditional recipes and
exhibited items in videos, images, and interviews.
Outcome
29 Community based organizations and 2 government institutions participated in the
Indigenous seed exhibition. The 29 CBOs were assessed and top 5 exhibitors
awarded.
JIDIAC group from Kiambu county was awarded as the best traditional seed exhibitor,
VERMA from Busia County was awarded third and Strategies for agropastoral
development SAPAD from Tharaka Nithi county came third.
9 groups selected from 9 ethnic groups participated in the traditional food exhibition.
The top 3 cooking exhibitors were awarded at the event.
Jitahidi farmers women group from Vihiga county came first in the food exhibition,
Anyuon Iteso Cultural Dancers.from Busia County came second and Kagirimu African
cultural preservers embu County third
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Discussion
Experiences and lessons learned from the results.
Current food systems produce large quantities of food, but not enough of the required
nutrient-rich, plant-based foods needed for healthier and sustainable diets (Siegel et al.
2014; Willett et al. 2019).
Domination of wheat, rice, and maize at the expense of alternative staples such as
sorghum, millets, rye, cassava, sweet potato, and yam.
Domination of exotic vegetables like kale, cabbage and spinach.
Loss of traditional food system knowledge (seeds and foods preservation, food
preparation methods).
Documentation technologies
Value addition technologies (e.g. fruit drying by kyanika,)
References.
1. Ratemo, B. (2022, October 6). The indigenous seed and Food Culture Harvest Fair .
Participatory Ecological Land Use Management (PELUM) Association. Retrieved January 27,
2023, from https://www.pelumkenya.net/2022/10/the-indigenous-seed-and-food-culture-
harvest-fair-19177.html
2. TLC PRO (2022, October 12). 1st Indigenous Seeds and Food Culture Harvest Fair. YouTube.
Retrieved January 27, 2023, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4suUFcJ3Ds
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3. Hunter, D., Borelli, T., Beltrame, D. M., Oliveira, C. N., Coradin, L., Wasike, V. W., ... & Tartanac, F.
(2019). The potential of neglected and underutilized species for improving diets and nutrition.
Planta, 250, 709-729.
4. TLC PRO (2022, October 14). 1st Indigenous Seeds and Food Culture Harvest Fair .
Www.youtube.com. Retrieved January 28, 2023, from
https://m.youtube.com/live/zIkBvUDK9AQ?feature=share
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(Mbeere) soaked in warm water, mixture of flour and water and stir till ・Tamarind is an appetizer and used as a
resulting paste removing it produces bubbles and some sweetener and tangy flavouring.
fibers and seeds) fragrance.
・Finger millet flour 2. Add the tamarind paste and some
・Millet flour sugar and stir.
・Sugar
Spices Msherekha/Munyu ・Solar dried banana peels 1. On an iron sheet on fire burn the ・Used as a natural salt, tenderizer for meat or
(Vihiga) ・Water peels till they become ash. remover of bitterness.
2. Boil ash in water then let it sit - the ・Used for healing heartburn, hurting ulcer or
ash settles at the bottom and the hurting stomach/diarrhea.
clear water produced is called
Msherekha or Munyu.
3. Place it in a distiller and the munyu
is ready for use
Vegetable Mtere (Vihiga) ・Slender leaf (Mitoo) 1. Place washed vegetables into water • Accompanied by a meal of choice like ugali.
s ・Cowpea plant (Mkunde) and let boil till soft • Used for baby food because it is easy to
・Msherekha as a 2. Add Msherekha and wait until swallow.
tenderizer and seasoning wilted- this can take up to 30 mins. •Reduces bloating, provides protein and the
(Ash solutions) same vitamins as spinach.
・Msherekha is used for removing the bitter
taste of mitoo and adding salty taste.
Vegetable Vwova (Vihiga) ・Dried mushrooms 1. Soak dried muchrooms in water ・Serve with ugali/rice with traditional
s ・Oil and salt and repeat this process 3 times. vegetables.
・Tomatoes and Onions. 2. Fry with onions and tomatoes and ・Provides proteins like meat, natural fats.
・Msherekha (optional / keep stirring and tasting to ensure the (clearly wrong belief...)
traditionally used) mushrooms are no longer chewy. ・Where meat would harm with parasites
found in animal's blood, mushrooms don't
have this issue.
Bevarages Uji ya Imbudwe ・Finger millet flour 1. Mix boiled water with a smooth ・Take as is or accompany it with an item of
(Marachi) (Ovure), mixture of water and four and stir choice.
・Sorghum flour (Mavere), constantly
・Soya Bean flour 2. Once bubbles are formed and a
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Proteins Akiri Nakaunom - ・Msherekha (lye) 1. Soak dried meat into water and boil
Elumuchi (Busia) ・Elumuch (Dried beef, it for about 1 hour or more.
dried through being 2. Add onions and tomatoes directly,
placed on a source of fire.) cover and let them wilt, add salt.
・Pounded groundnuts 3. Add the mixture of fermented milk
・Fermented milk and pounded groundnuts into the
・Tomatoes and Onions cooking meat (the nuts provide any
・Salt as needed oil needed for frying) and let the meat
cook till little to no stew is remaining.
Proteins Panya buku (giant Unobserved at the event. ・Once caught, it's skinned and boiled ・Accompanied with choice like ugali.
forest/cave rat) (Busia) (the community set traps in water for 5 minutes. It is then dried ・Provides calcium and people suffering from
for panya buku (giant on a wire mesh atop fire for its arthritis would benefit from including it into
forest/cave rat)) preservation. their diet.
・Cooking procedure is the same as ・The community adores the giant rat, they
Akiri Nakaunom believe it to be sweeter than chicken.
Proteins Kunde ya Nazi (Giriama) ・Tui bubu (Coconut milky 1. Wash and boil cowpeas for over an ・Accompanied with rice or chapati
liquid that is wrined out hour, then drain any excess soup
from the blended mixture 2. Add salt and onions and pour the
of flakes of grated coconut boiled thick Tui bubu into the kunde
with a bit of water.) and mix.
・Red cowpeas
・Onions
・Salt
Staple Wali wa nazi (Giriama) ・Tui la pili (Coconut light 1. Add the washed rice into boiling ・Accompanied with any stew of choice
foods liquid that is produced Tui lapili and let cook.
during the process of 2. Before the rice is fully cooked add
wrining out Tui bubu 'Tui bubu' stirring occasionally.
(Coconut milky liquid)) 3. When remaining water is little,
・Tui bubu (Coconut milky place a cover on the pot and add
liquid that is wrined out onto it hot coals. This provides heat
from the blended mixture on the top and bottom to let the heat
of flakes of grated coconut dry up any moisture in the pot.
with a bit of water.)
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・Rice
・Salt
Proteins Nyirinyiri - Qoche meat ・Dried goat meat (being 1. Cut dried meat into small chunks ・The oil is used to preserve the meat for up
(Borana) done by fixing meat on a then place into a pot upon fire to 1 month.
slightly bent stick to allow without any water to let it boil using
for all the blood to drip it's own juices -cover pot.
away. The stick is then 2. Pour lots of oil into the pot with a
placed close to heat from little salt and cover, keep stirring to
a source of fire - not avoid burning.
directly.)
・Salt and Oil
1) The recipes were categorized based on its ingredients and accompaniments. 2) The wild foods are indicated as bold font. 3) All information is based on
interviews and its accuracy and evidence is not known.
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Kyai kya muti is prepared using the dried Kyanika Women Group preparing
leaves of the Mukanu (Zanthoxylum fermented porridge (Usuu wa Kukia).
chalybeum) tree combined with the ground Peninnah Mwangangi (L) and Rose Syovinya
bark of the Musemei (Acacia nilotica) Muema during the food culture fair at the
National Museums of Kenya, 2022
Starchy foods
Ugali (stiff porridge) an everyday food, made from maize flour was a favourite meal for lunch
and supper; in many parts of Kenya. Community attendees prepared stiff porridge using
starch foods like Sorghum, millet, and root tubers like cassava. The Maragoli group prepared
ugali (vuchima vorogoli) from cassava, millet, and finger millet flours. This meal is often
cooked and served to the bride on the wedding day and is eaten early in the morning so that
she can remain full all day.
The Teso group prepared Atap ugali from cassava flour mixed with millet flour. The Atap
could be eaten with vegetables or stew.
Jitahidi women group from Vihiga prepared Musenye, prepared by mashing sweet potatoes
with beans. Mrs Mary Aoko an exhibitor at the stand explains that the food can be taken
alone or used as an accompaniment for tea. Sorghum cake was exhibited by the SAPAD
group from Embu,
The Mbeere group prepared musandi, a traditional meal made by mashing cooked cowpeas
and Sorghum. According to Ms. Yvonne Mumbi, this meal offers an opportunity to
reconsider values of traditional food as a new diet, different from the rice and chapati that
have become common in many Kenyan households.
Ngunja kutu was also presented in the Mbeere group's stand. This is a meal made by mixing
beans, cowpea leaves, and maize flour to make a stiff meal commonly taken with tea in the
morning.
The Giriama group presented cassava and sweet potatoes spiced with grated coconut. They
also prepared pilau and chapatis, which were enjoyed by the public participants.
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Sweet potatoes and cassava tubers Atap ugali made by the Jitegemee womens
prepared by the Jitahidi Women group Ateso
Group to be taken with porridge and
tea.
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Muhogo wa nazi. Cassava spices with Cake made from sorghum exhibited by Strategies for
coconut milk (Tui) prepared by the Agro-Pastralists Development (SAPAD) Embu county.
Utamaduni conservation group from
Kilifi.
Vegetable meals
A wide range of traditional vegetables was prepared and exhibited. The Iteso group
prepared a vegetable meal ekidomoroche, a mixture of cowpea leaves, spinach, and
blackjack leaves cooked with fermented milk and pounded groundnuts. The Busia group
presented mboga za otwa made from a mixture of fermented amaranth leaves and managu;
this was served with stiff porridge kakima made from cassava and millet.
Figure 1; Mixture of Murenda (Corchorus sp), amaranth, and Cowpeas (Vigna unguiculata) prepared by the
Maragoli group.
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Protein foods
One of the striking beef stews exhibited was from the Iteso group in Busia County, which is
mixed with groundnut paste and fermented milk. This community believes that this meal
keeps one full of energy all day. Another highlight of indigenous meat sources from the Iteso
group was the giant forest or cave rat (panya buku), whose meat is believed to offer relief to
people with arthritis. The Iteso group also prepared mranda from dried beef, groundnut
paste, and fermented milk.
The group exhibited their meat (elumuchi) using a unique ceramic pot with a lid made of
banana leaves (apukenich kamoti kodi). The pot has a long handle to ensure that one does
not burn their hands with hot steam from the pot. Jitahidi women’s group exhibited Tsitswa
(Flying termites), according to Mrs Mary aoko an exhibitor at the stand, Tsitswa is collected
during the rainy season later and taken as a starter meal. The meal is tasty and offers and
nutritious protein food option. Borolle women Group from Marsabit exhibited Nyirnyir , the
animal protein is prepared by boiling cut pieces of goat meat which are preserved in oil.
(Borana)
Fruit vegetable
Kyanika women group had cherry tomatoes Nziithi, which are used for cooking other
vegetables and can also be consumed. Kilifi women exhibited Mbirambi, the cucumber like
fruit vegetable was used to make a meal delicacy that was served at the event.
Nziithi tomatoes exhibited by the Kyanika Mbirimbi fruit (Averrhoa bilimbi) vegetable
womens group is used in cooking vegetable exhibited by the Utamaduni Conservation
meal group from Kilifi
Fruits
For fruits Kyanika women group had a wide selection of fruits collected from the wild, on their
exhibition stand they had Matoo (Azanza garckeana), Ndului (Balanites aegyptiaca) and Muamba
fruits (Baobab fruits), Ngolokolo (Piliostigma thonningi). The women’s groups has also started
adding value to fruits like Mango and at their stand they offered a branded pack of delicious
mango crips product from their initiative. According to Mrs Penina Mwangangi the groups
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Chairlady, the womens group is now processing Ngolokolo ( Piliostigma thonningi) to make flour
that is used in making nutritious porridge.
Mrs Halima Jedessa from Borrole women Mrs Beatrice Kirundu from Vihiga
group in Borana community displaying an community displaying various ceramic pots
artefact worn by the mothers during a male and utensils used in the cooking of
child's naming ceremony. traditional foods.
Traditional food recipes are easy to prepare and effectively avail food to local households
when needed. For example, Mrs Penina Mwangangi from the Kyanika Adult Women's group,
says roasted cassava is a simple food to prepare and a good option for pupils coming home
during lunch breaks. 'You just need fire and a hoe', she says.
Use of milk products on leafy vegetables. It was observed that most women in the various
communities used fermented milk and other milk products as additives in their green
vegetables to make them more nutritious and tastier. At times the milk products could be
added to improve the palatability of some of the bitter vegetables like the spiderplant and
crotalaria.
In times of meat abundance, women in Ateso community soak the surplus meat in salty
water, then dry it as a storage method to avail it when the food is inadequate. The meat can
later be retrieved in times of urgency or starvation and reconstituted by boiling the meat.
Jitegemee womens groups use solar dries to dry their vegetables. Food preservation
education is needed to ensure that the foods are preserved correctly and that the local
communities benefit nutritionally
Caroline anyona from Jitahidi womens Banana leaves used to cover cooking Cassava and
groups and an award winner at the cooking sweetpotatoes
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Traditional seeds
Kenya is home to a diverse range of indigenous seeds. Traditional or indigenous seeds are
those selected and managed by local people in the community environment. For many years,
local communities have nurtured and selected seeds from crops for their subsequent
planting seasons. As custodians of both indigenous seeds and an endless seed knowledgee.
Kenyan communities’s are well deserved for the establishment of farmer-managed seed
systems that are suited to a wide range of environmental conditions.
Seed availability, vitality, accessibility, affordability, and diversity have a substantial impact on
climate resilience, women's empowerment, and food and nutrition security in communities
(TLC PRO 2022, October 14). 29 community-based organizations and 2 government
organizations participated in traditional seeds exhibitions. The seeds exhibited included a
wide range of leafy vegetables, fruit vegetable, spices, nuts, oil seed, grains, tubers /roots
and fruits seeds.
The use of local seeds and culture are inextricably linked. Indigenous seeds represent culture,
a people's way of life, and centuries of knowledge about conserving, changing, planting, and
guiding it to fruitful expression.
'With these traditional seeds, we won't borrow or wait for seed aid from the government. At
the onset of the rainy season, farmers in my community already have their seeds ready for
planting, with no delay. This ensures food security', says Evelyn Ripon of Smart initiative West
Pokot.
The advantages of indigenous seeds highlighted by farmers at the food fair are;
traditional seeds tend to be resistant to some environmental shocks e.g. caused by
extreme weather conditions.
they are highly diverse and often highly nutritious.
they save money because the seed is saved and replanted;
they reduce the need for costly inputs such as pesticides and fertilizers
Seeds are selected, saved, exchanged and traded – and this strengthens social
relationships in agricultural communities which acts as "insurance" in bad years.
traditional seeds are part of household assets because they may be exchanged.
Some of the concerns raised in the planery facing the seed sector in the country include.
Cooperate control and power over seed. -Seed companies have pushed the laws all
over the world, you can’t sell seeds unless you are a registered seed producer, to be a
seed producer you need millions of dollars and resource noted Prof Kihumbu thairu,
a panelist at the event.
We are already slaves to the seed companies, when it rains all farmers meet at the agrovet to
buy seeds, the alternative system being proposed will make us the worst prisoners. Especially
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with the threat of patenting of seeds (GMOS) making their use difficult to use. This will
worsen the situation (Mrs Sylvia kuria, a panelist at the food fair event)
Explaining the significance of farmer managed seed systems in Kenya, Miss Wanjiru Kamau a
panellist at the event noted that the formal seed sector only controls 20% of seeds used in
the country. 80% of the seeds used for farming in Kenya are derived from smallholder
farmers.
Evelyn Ripon of Smart initiative West Pokot Traditional seeds displayed by the smart
displays her varied maize varieties during the initiative
Indigenous foods and culture event at the
National Museums of Kenya
Mugoroke bean exhibited by seed savers Gourds used for storing seed displayed by
Strategies for agropastoral development
SAPAD group from Tharaka nithi
Awarding of teams
Two categories were awarded at the end of the event
a) Indigenous Seed Exhibitors
Total of 31 exhibitors participated in the indigenous seeds’ exhibition, 29 were representing
CSOs and two government institutions KEFRI and KALRO
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Conclusion
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Much knowledge was disseminated during the food fair, but the key concern was how this
knowledge can be effectively documented and used to educate the 'modern consumers'
because:
a. Traditional foods give us the privilege of enjoying tasty, nutritious foods with a
significant positive impact on our health and well-being.
b. Breaking monotony of our diets by increasing the variety of meals
c. Some indigenous foods have additional health benefits i.e., functional properties.
The team from KENRIK at the National Museums of Kenya documented the entire variety of
seeds exhibited and also the food preparations and presentation through videos and
photography. The team sought and gained consent from the exhibitors interviewed. It
recorded 32 indigenous food recipes and collected up to 105 local seed varieties currently
archived at the National Museums of Kenya. The intent for documenting this information
was to bring to the awareness of the Kenyan people the diversity of indigenous seeds and
foods available at the local community level. The team is imploring the media and the
society to take note of this area that is extremely important to the food and nutrition security
of the nation but often ignored. It is through such documentation, that we could educate our
society on eating healthier and more sustainable foods that are tasty and nutritious.
The team wishes echo most farmers who said that we should correct the widely disseminated
falsehood that indigenous seeds are inferior to hybrid seeds. The overall benefits from local
seeds in terms of environmental sustainability, inputs, taste, health, nutrition, culture etc. are
immense and cannot be monetized. The farmers, need support to conserve and sustain their
seeds and to publicize their value so as to build a healthier populace if incorporated into our
daily lives. The support needed could be in form of bulking, documentation e.g. of varieties
and recipes, marketing, value addition of local foods and food fairs (gastronomy). The local
communities indeed hold future food and nutrition security in their hands; the question is,
will we lie back and let these seeds disappear or join hands to make these resources
available to humanity.