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Mikuni Carburetor Generic Tuning
Mikuni Carburetor Generic Tuning
There are basically three different types of Mikuni carbs you'll see on motorcycles. First, there are the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) carbs.
Mikuni engineers work with motorcycle manufacturers to adapt their carbs to a particular design to meet factory specifications. For instance, certain models
may need an idle screw on the left side rather than the right to make it more accessible - or maybe the choke lever needs to be operated from the right rather
than the left. Perhaps vacuum or oil injection ports are needed for a specific model. OEM carbs often have parts specific to the manufacture's design and
these parts are available only from the manufacturer. Suzuki has a VM34SS on their PE175 which is very similar to the aftermarket VM34-168 and VM34-
275. But there are subtle differences between these carbs.
The genuine Mikuni public release (a.k.a. aftermarket carbs) are designed to fit a wide variety of applications. These carbs often closely resemble OEM
carbs, but usually have some differences - like choke, idle screw or mixture screw location. These carbs can often be substituted for OEM carbs as long as
the jetting or other differences are accounted for to work on a particular model. The very popular, round slide, VM aftermarket series carbs can be found on
vintage street bikes, racing motorcycles, snowmobiles as well as experimental aircraft and farm equipment.
A counterfeit Mikuni
I mentioned a third group of Mikuni carbs - but they're not really Mikuni at all. They are cheap, imitation, Mikuni knockoffs. These fake Mikunis are being
built and distributed around the world. Most are manufactured in China, some are made in India and I'm sure, there are others being made elsewhere. You
usually see these carbs on eBay in the $25-65 range. They are poorly manufactured with cheap materials and don't work well - if at all. Genuine Mikuni
parts will not fit on these carbs even though the look very similar. My suggestion is to stay away from these carbs.
If you're looking to replace your OEM carb with a genuine Mikuni carb, you'll find Niche Cycle Supply and MAP Cycle will have what you need. MAP
Cycle has been providing vintage, British bike enthusiasts with parts (including Mikuni carb kits) for over 45 years, while Niche Cycle provides parts for
Japanese, German, Italian, Spanish as well as US brands. They also have parts for PWCs, ATVs and snowmobiles. They're one of the largest Mikuni
dealers anywhere and their prices are very reasonable. They also have a great selection of parts, fast shipping and superb customer service. They also offer
a wide assortment of kits and pre-jetted carbs for many applications.
Size does matter, but bigger isn't necessarily better!
Before you loosen the first hose clamp to remove those old carbs, there are a few things you need to figure out. First, you need to give those carburetors a
chance to work right by determining the correct carb size you'll need. If you put on too big or too small a carb, your bike is going to run like kaka - if at
all.
Let’s say your bike is basically stock. You pull off the old carb and determine that the venturi size is 28mm on that carburetor (this can be done by
measuring with a caliper). Let’s also say you haven’t made any radical changes to the bore size, head, valves, cams, air cleaner or exhaust. Then, in most
cases, it would be wise to take advantage of the knowledgeable engineers who designed this bike and replace that carb with a 28mm aftermarket carb of
similar specifications. If you decide you know more than the engineers, and you stick on a 30 or 32mm carburetor under the misguided precept that “bigger
is better,” you’ll quickly find you're bringing in more of a fuel/air mixture than your valves, cams and exhaust can handle. You can try to choke down the
carb with smaller jetting but that won't make it right. You're opening yourself up to a mechanical nightmare.
On the other hand, if you added a big bore kit, a nice street cam, and maybe less restrictive aftermarket air cleaners and exhaust, you’re probably going to
want to step up in size a bit - maybe to a 30mm carburetor. If you've had some professional head work done, adding larger valves and increased porting,
then maybe a 32mm would work. I'm sure you get the picture - don't go bigger unless your bike has been modified to accept the increased fuel/air mix.
Let's say you decided to go ahead and order a carb kit. While your carbs are being shipped, I suggest you do a little pre-installation prep work. First, you'll
want to make sure your motorcycle is maintained properly and ready for the new carbs, otherwise, your bike will still run like kaka - even with brand new
carbs. If you valves aren't opening or closing properly or if your spark plugs aren't firing at the right time, new carbs won't make any difference at all. So
before you you even think about putting on those great-looking new carbs, get out the tools and do a little maintenance. This is definitely not as exciting as
bolting on a new kit, but it’s an absolutely necessity if you want this project to go smoothly. Experienced mechanics know that if you go at this project
methodically and do what needs to be done, it will go a lot smoother and a lot quicker in the long run. Even if you feel your bike is running great, you’ll
want to start this project by checking your bike’s valve clearances and timing. It’s a good idea to have a shop manual handy so you can get the correct
specs you’ll need to make adjustments (rather than relying on information provided by some bonehead in a user group with little actual experience).
One of the things you're going to require to properly jet the bike is a box of new spark plugs. The spark plugs are the canary in the coal mine. They are the
first indicator that things are going right or wrong with your engine. If all is well, the ceramic tip on plugs should turn from white (when new) to are a
caramel color (after a few minutes of running). If you inspect the plugs and the tip is dark gray, black or worse, sooty, then you have a rich condition, or
too much fuel in the fuel/air mixture being provided by the carburetor. If it's a lean condition, the plugs will tend towards a bright white color. As you go
though the jetting and tuning process, be sure to compare your plugs to the chart we’ve provided below.
Not only will a spark plug tip color provide you a good indication of how well your bike is currently set up, it will also give you a baseline for comparison
after changes have been made. More on that later in the tuning section.
While on the subject of spark plugs, be sure to check out your high tension leads. That's the spark plug wires (originating from the coil) and and the spark
plug cap. Make sure the wires are not old or cracked in any place and make sure there is no cracking on the cap or a missing boot around the base of the
cap. Misfiring or jumping sparks can cause a real problem. Spark plug wires should be pliable (easily bent without cracking). If there are cracks in the
wires on on the cap, you will have to replace them. If you don't you're going to have arching and a restricted spark. If you’re in a place without bright light,
you should be able to see a bright blue spark coming from the plug’s electrode when it’s grounded against the head (while cranking the bike). And
hopefully, there will be no other sparks emitting from either the lead wire or from cracks in the cap. If you see sparks coming from anything other than the
spark plug, you need to replace the wires or caps. This needs to be done before you put on the new carbs.
You might be tempted to skip these checks, but it’s universally recommended in almost every good book or article on carburation and tuning. These
authors consider this a must-do procedure before you make any attempt to adjust your carburetors. It's just as critical, if not more, when converting to
different carburetors. One you know the the timing and valves are correct, if you have any problems, you can narrow it down to the carburation, rather than
looking all over the place for a cause. If you’ve had issues with the way your bike is running (down on power, etc.), you’re going to want to do a
compression check to make sure your engine is meeting minimal factory specifications.
When you start the project, have some additional fresh plugs standing by as well, in case your adjustments are off and you foul your plugs (you need them
for jetting anyway). Another suggestion, if you’re installing new, expensive new carbs, you might as well do the job right. Be sure to replace the manifold
gasket, fuel lines, hose clamps, fuel filter, control cables and air cleaner. If you're working on an old two stroke, clean out the exhaust system. A build up of
oil in the exhaust can restrict the flow of exhaust gasses. A problem with anyone of these items can marginalize performance and create an unnecessary
problems during the tuning process.
The very idea of installing and tuning a new motorcycle carburetor may at first appear daunting to anyone but an expert, but if you understand the basics of
how a these devices work, you’ll find it’s a lot easier than expected. As you probably already know, there are many types of carburetors, but for simplicity’s
sake, this article will focus primarily on the Mikuni VM and TM series. That being said, many of the concepts presented here can be applied to most
motorcycle carburetors.
A carburetor’s job is simple: mix fuel and air, and then deliver this explosive mixture to the engine’s cylinder where it’s compressed, ignited and finally,
exhausted. The trick is to adjust that mixture (ratio) almost instantly on the fly and deliver it consistently to the engine when needed. Mikuni carburetors do
a nice job of meeting these requirements and they also provide good performance, high efficiency and in most cases, decent fuel economy.
Mikunis were first noticed on 1960s-era Japanese motorcycles.
A Little History
Mikuni was founded in Japan in the early 1920s. During the 1930's they were reproducing carburetors under license by Amal. The new Mikuni round-slide
carburetor started hitting US and European shores in the mid 1960’s mounted on two-stroke, Japanese motorcycles. They quickly developed a reputation for
reliability. Racing tuners and mechanics loved them for their performance and ease of maintenance. They’ve became so popular they can now be found on a
wide variety of applications, including ATV’s, snowmobiles, boats, agricultural machinery, go-karts and all kinds of gas-powered equipment like
generators, welders and compressors. They are, without a doubt, the most popular motorcycle carburetors available. They come in a variety of sizes and are
highly adjustable, which makes them ideal for customized or racing applications.
A great place to start with the understanding that all carburetors require atmospheric pressure to function. That's why your vintage Bonneville wouldn't
start if it were parked outside the International Space Station - even with a new MAP Mikuni kit installed! You may not realize it, but as long as you’re on
this planet, you receiving constant atmospheric pressure applied to your body - almost 15 pounds per square inch at sea level. That's typically referred to
as one atmosphere in the diving community. Take a dive into the ocean and drop below 30-feet and things start to change. and scuba divers know that you
can increase the atmospheric pressure on your body by descending just below one meter or 33 feet. By the time you’ve dropped to 66 feet, you’ve doubled
that pressure to nearly 30 pounds. If you’re breathing though a regulator, you’ll find that pressure makes it much harder to breath.
Bikes in space? They said it couldn't be done! You can bet it wouldn't be
powered by an internal combustion engine.
You can go one step further into carburetor theory if you like. Inside every carburetor is a venturi. A venturi is a generally described as a tube with a
narrow section placed somewhere between two wider ends. This narrowing creates low pressure (and suction). Swiss mathematician and physicist, Daniel
Bernoulli, discovered this way back in the 1700’s. He discovered that was a direct correlation between the speed of fluid and the pressure that is exerted on
it. He observed that as fluid speeds up in the narrow section of the venturi, the pressure is lowered. Conversely as it slows down pressure is increased. He
went to to prove this theory with gas as well as fluids. The clever designers of the Mikuni carburetors use the venturi to their advantage to efficiently draw
air and fuel into the body of the carburetor. Next UP: The primary circuits of the carburetor (you’ll want to read this).
If you have an issue with jetting, you can use this method to determine where in the power-band the problem exists. Keep in mind, you may have more than
one issue and these issues may effect more than one area of the carb. But this exercise will help you narrow down the cause of the problem.
We will also use this exercise to identify what component of the carburetor effects any given segment of the power-band. We'll start with the pilot system
which regulates fuel when the throttle is completely closed and the engine is at idle.
The pilot circuit provides fuel to the carburetor primarily at idle (ID)
The carburetor can be adjusted for this part of the power-band by installing a throttle slide with a larger or smaller cutaway. The larger opening allows more
air into the fuel/air mixture which makes it leaner. A smaller cutaway does the opposite, making the mixture richer. Of course the needle jet can be changed
as well and there's more on that in the next segment.
The slide cutaway has an effect on airflow during early acceleration through the first part of the mid-range. After that, the slide is pulled up higher in
mixing chamber and air flow is increased to the point where the slide cutaway is no longer effective.
The slide cutaway begins work as soon as the throttle is cracked open and continues
through the first 25% of the power-band
Changing the needle jet would effect the lower to middle portion of the mid-range
The needle jet works in conjunction with the jet needle. The jet needle is a tapered cylinder that looks a lot like a sewing needle. It is suspended from the
bottom of the throttle slide and held in place by the slide return spring and spring plate.
A positioning clip at the top of the needle suspends the needle from the bottom of the slide. There are typically 5 clip positions on the Mikuni’s VM needle.
This clip determines how deep the needle penetrates through the needle jet. This clip can be easily adjusted up or down. Raising the clip drops the needle
and limits how much fuel can enter the venturi. This makes the mixture leaner. Conversely, dropping the clip to a lower notch will raise the needle inside
the needle jet. This allows more fuel in and makes the mixture richer.
The position and size of the jet needle has an effect on the entire midrange
Jet needles are avail in both single taper and double taper. This allows for precise tuning of the widest and must used part of the powerband.
There are a wide variety of needle sizes and shapes available. The Mikuni chart below provide a comprehensive listing of the needle jets available for their
round-slide carburetors.
It's important to note that the jet needle has and effect on the widest part of the powerband. This can be seen in the image to the right.
The Mikuni needle jet has five notches on the top of The positioning clip is moved to adjust the depth of This chart shows the many needle sizes available
the needle for adjusting the depth of the needle in the the needle and the fuel mixture
needle jet.
The main jet meters fuel use for the upper end of the power-band
The Main Jet
When you grab a handful of throttle and rev the engine to the top 25-percent of the power band there is a significantly greater demand for fuel. In this power
range, Mikuni carbs pull fuel from from the high speed circuit.
As the throttle slide is pulled up almost all the way, the jet needle protruding from the bottom of the slide clears the needle jet and opens up a direct passage
from the float bowl, through the main jet, directly into the mixing chamber. On round-slide carbs, this is the most direct route for the fuel, but it requires a
lot of vacuum to work. As it is with the pilot jet, it's important that the right ratio of fuel is being delivered to the engine. The size of the jet determines how
much or how little fuel reaches the mixing chamber. Mikuni offers a wide variety of main jet sizes.
The main jet and needle jet assembled outside the carb
If the engine has been recently run, the heat from the engine allows fuel in the carb to vaporize quickly. When the engine is warm you don't need a choke.
But, if the engine is cold, the fuel won't easily vaporize and it has to be enriched with more fuel than normal - that is the purpose of the choke circuit on the
Mikuni round slide carburetor. There are several way to accomplish this. Amal carbs (most often seen on bikes built in the UK), Bings (frequently seen on
German and northern European motorcycles) and Delorto (Italian and Spanish bikes) have in the past used a primer or tickler device to put more raw fuel
into the carb. This is essentially a device that bypasses the float system and allows an excess of fuel to flood into the float bowl enriching the fuel/air
mixture - this is called priming the carb. This flooding of the float bowl works when the engine is cold, but it would keep it from running if it was hot.
The arrows show the butterfly choke open and the inset shows the choke closed
Some carburetors utilize a simple butterfly valve that restricts air flow coming into the mixing chamber of the carb. By restricting air intake, the fuel side of
the mixture is increased, thus enriching the mixture. These butterfly valves are frequently seen on Kenhin CV carbs used throughout the 1970s and 80s by
Honda. You'll also find them on vintage Harleys and Indians and almost every car and lawnmower made prior to 1980. This device is simple, but it does not
provide an optimal, precise, mixture for starting an engine.
Of course, the simplest choke is the Redneck Choke. It's a bit of gas poured onto a rag and held over the opening of the carb. But, this exercise could be
fraught with potential bad outcomes. If the backfires, you could easily catch your bike on fire , or worse yet, yourself. It is not recommended. I'm sure my
attorney would advise me to tell my readers to NEVER, EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES DO TRY THIS. Consider yourself told!
None of the above methods is as effective as Mikuni's dedicated choke circuit. With Mikuni's enrichment circuit, fuel is delivered from the starter jet which
is near the bottom of the float bowl. As this fuel is drawn into the emulsion tube, it is broken into tiny, microscopic-sized particles. These particles flow into
the into the choke plunger area where it mixes with air in a precise ratio. When the choke lever is depressed (or cable pulled), a plunger moves up allowing
this fuel vapor mixture to pass into a fuel discharge passage where it is delivered to the engine. Since vacuum is necessary to draw the fuel up, it is
important that the throttle remain closed when using the starting system to start the engine. If you open the throttle on a Mikuni when you choke it, it
will defeat the choke every time.
Why is a precise air/fuel mixture ratio important? Well, if the ratio is too far off, the engine simply won't run. Before the days when fuel injection was
common in cars, you'd often witness the result of a someone over-enthusiastically pumping their gas pedal. First there would be the tale-tale smell of raw
gas the air, and maybe a small puddle of it under the engine. Then you'd hear the car turning
over...waawaawaawaawaawaa, waawaawaawaawaawaa, waawaawaawaawaawaa, without starting. Then someone would always say, "It's flooded. Let it
sit a bit." That mixture would be almost all gas and no air. Running out of gas would be on the other end of the spectrum with no fuel getting to the carb at
all.
But even small differences in the fuel mixture can make a huge What is the perfect fuel/air mixture?
difference in engine performance. A fuel mixture that is too lean will
sometimes make your bike feel like its performing better, but it can For those intellectually curious individuals, engineers have found the
also overheat the engine and do permanent damage very quickly. A lot ideal air/fuel ratio is approximately 14.7 grams of air to 1 gram of fuel
of race teams run their bikes with a lean mixture, but those engines (give or take a fraction of a gram). Unfortunately, this ideal ration can
only need to last one race. A mixture that is too rich will let the engine only be achieved when the engine is running and only for a short period
run cooler, but it will also cut way back on performance. Without of time. This is because at slow speeds the fuel can vaporize effectively
expensive, automotive diagnostic measuring equipment, the best way and when the engine is running at higher speeds more fuel is needed in
for the layman to tell if their mixture is spot-on is by the color of a new the ideal mixture. So, for practical purposes, a "real-world" operational
spark plug insulator after running the bike under certain conditions for air/fuel ratio is usually a bit richer.
a few minutes.
Take a look at the color of the ceramic insulators in the photo to the
photo below. The spark plugs with bright white insulators are
indicating a lean condition, or not enough fuel. The dark or sooty plugs
are indicating too much fuel in the mix. The plugs in the middle are a
nice caramel color. They indicate the correct fuel mixture. Ideally, you
want your plugs to be this color.
On most engines, a properly jetted Mikuni carburetor will typically deliver somewhere between 12-15 grams of air for every 1 gram of fuel. This "ideal"
mixture will provide maximum efficiency and performance.
But, within that ideal range, there are many variables that must be taken into account. It begins with type of engine and how it is cooled. It is known that air-
cooled engines do not operate as efficiently as water-cooled engines. Therefore, they require a richer mixture of between 10-12 grams of air for every one
gram of fuel to help keep the engine cool. While a water cooled engine can get by on a leaner mix, say 14 grams of air for every gram of fuel.
If you don't have a lot of diagnostic equipment attached to your bike, the tried and true method of determining the quality of the fuel mix is by examining
the electrode of a fresh spark plug during a test of the carb. We'll get more into that as we talk about tuning. But if you look at the chart above, you can see
a line of bright white plugs. They may look nice and clean, but if your plugs look like that, you may be on the verge of ruining your engine. Bright white
electrodes are an indicator of a lean condition. That means the mixture ratio going into your engine has too little air and not enough fuel. To get more fuel
into the mix, you'll would typically install larger jets, raise the jet needle (by dropping the clip) or install a throttle slide with a smaller cut away. Any
individual combination of those actions would bring more fuel into the mix. But you probably wouldn't need to make all of those changes. Again, more
about that in the jetting section.
Conversely, if the inspection of your spark plug electrodes reveal a rich condition, that means, your carb is delivering too much fuel to that all important
fuel/air mix. If that is the case, your plugs will look like those on the bottom line of the chart- dark gray, black or sooty. You'll want to reduce your jet size,
drop your needle or use a larger cutout on the throttle slide. But again, probably not all at the same time. We explore more about this in the tuning section.
Notes on fuel:
Because of possible fuel contamination, we always recommend you
drain any existing fuel from your fuel tank. One of the main causes of
Keep it clean - Keep your work-space neat, clean and carburetor failure is contaminants in the fuel. You don’t want to mess
organized. If you’re not in the habit of doing this, you’ll be up your new carb with dirty gas. If you question whether or not your
surprised how much easier the job will be. Put away tools you fuel is dirty, empty about a cupful from the petcock into perfectly
aren’t using. Clear out parts from other projects to keep them clean, glass container. Place the container on a level surface in a well-
from being confused with this one. Have plenty of clean rags ventilated area and let it sit for 30 minutes. If after 30 minutes, you can
handy. Print out instructions and keep them nearby for see sediment on the bottom of the container, you need to drain your
reference. Carburetors are precise instruments and you are fuel and add a new fuel filter. If you see what looks like a line in the
performing delicate surgery – so keep that operating room fuel with two different colors, that means you have water
clean! contamination. In either case, you need to drain your tank and get new
Use the right tool for the job - Yes, you read it before, but fuel. However, just draining your tank provides no guarantee that your
it's worth saying again. That's because any mechanic who's gas tank will then be completely clean. To have a clean tank, you'll
spent more than a few hours employed in a shop has had to need to empty all the fuel, wash out the tank with Dawn detergent and
waste time removing rounded off screws and nuts - just because water and then blow dry the tank with compressed air or clean, warm,
someone didn't use the correct tool. If you don't have the right blown air (not sucked) from a shop vacuum (vacuums must have
tool for the job, get it. If you don't know what the right tool is, blower feature to do this). If it's a metal tank, it can rust quickly. To
ask someone. Using the wrong tools with ultimately cost you prevent that, I usually pour in a couple ounces of cheap crankcase oil
time and money! (any weight is fine) or two-stroke motor oil, slosh it over every inch of
the tank and then drain any remaining oil before reinstalling the tank
Don't rush the job - Set aside the time you need to get the job and filling it with fuel. Make sure the tank is absolutely, completely,
done right. Don’t start the job Sunday night if you need to ride BONE DRY before adding any fuel. DO NOT USE ANYTHING
the bike to work Monday morning. A carb exchange will take WITH OPEN FLAME TO DRY THE TANK!!!
a professional several hours at best. It’s not just hanging the
carbs on the manifolds – it a series of dozens of small tasks that If your tank is rusted, you'll need to look at using a fuel tank sealer
all need to be completed for the project to be successful. Plan from a manufacturer like POR, Kreem or Red-Kote. POR has a really
for eight to ten hours for a first-timer. It’s also best to be goal good system and the motorcycle kit comes with everything you need.
oriented. Set reasonable, short-term objectives. Give yourself a
task and a sufficient amount of time to get it done. It might The Best Way to Transfer Fuel:
seem like a huge job, but if you break it down into a series of In a well-ventilated area, with the petcock in the off position, attach
easily attainable objectives, the project will go quicker than about 2 feet of hose to the petcock (the length of the tubing may vary
expected and you’ll be proud of the results. depending on size of the container being used). Place the other end into
Plug the manifold(s) - Would you like to eliminate a container designed and approved to hold fuel. Make sure there is
heartbreak, pain and suffering from your life? You can start by enough room in the container for the remaining fuel in the tank before
plugging up your manifold(s). If you have the carburetors off transferring the fuel. If the fuel capacity is two gallons on your bike,
the engine for more than a few moments, place a clean shop then use a larger container - like 2.5 gallons. Turn the petcock on and
towel or small, clean rag in the open intake port to prevent any stay with the container until the tank is empty. Seal the container.
objects from being dropped in or crawling in (yes, dead mice Check with your city or county waste service to find out how to dispose
have showed up in the tiniest spaces in an engine). It’s also a of the old gas properly. Do not smoke anywhere near an open
really horrible, sinking feeling to find that you have a missing container. Avoid any sparks while transferring fuel.
nut or washer, and then realize the only possible place it could
be is inside that intake port. Or, even worse, start the engine
after replacing a carb only to hear the sound of a foreign object
bending a valve and putting a hole in the piston. Keep this in
mind whether you're working on old cars, boats or lawnmowers
(really any thing that has an open cavity where something
might fall in and cost you hours of work). Remember this
mantra: It's easier to cover a hole than to try to find something
that might have fallen down it!
Eliminate potential air leaks - The best way to avoid air leaks is to install new manifold gaskets to perfectly clean manifold surfaces.
Remember, air leaks are the enemy of a successful carb installation. It seems whenever old paper gaskets are removed, they leave pieces of material
stuck to manifold surface. Sometimes it’s a pain to remove, but you have to do a good job. Use a razor blade (pressed flat and parallel to the
surface) to lift as much of the old gasket material as possible. Be careful not to gouge the aluminum surface of the manifold. DO NOT USE A
CHISEL OR SCREWDRIVER TO SCRAPE THE MANIFOLD SURFACE! Use a scrubbing pad with some lacquer thinner or acetone to clean the
surface and make sure all remnants of the old gasket are removed. Make sure you have blocked off the manifold so no gasket remnant drops inside.
You shouldn't need any kind of gasket sealer. Manufactures don’t use it with paper gaskets you shouldn’t need to either. Make sure the manifold
nuts (or bolts) are tightened equally, in stages. Don’t crank down one side and then the other. Rather, snug up one side and move to the other,
going back and forth until fully tightened. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You should always use a wrench or a small 1/4” drive ratchet and socket
to tighten the manifolds down. Never use an air impact or a larger 3/8 or ½” drive. The last thing you want to do is break off a stud or crack a
manifold. If you're using a rubber flange adapter or straight rubber adapter, make sure the carb is fully seated within the adapter. Mikuni
carbs have a groove cut in the spigot that fits into a raised rubber channel in the Mikuni flange and straight adapters. When a Mikuni carb is
properly seated in a Mikuni adapter, you can feel it pop in and it will often be accompanied with a clicking sound. If you pull back gently on the
carb, it will not pop out, even when if it's not clamped. Speaking of clamps, be sure to use the correct size clamps (usually provided with kits) and
make sure they are tightened to the point where the carburetor will not rotate if you try to twist it. Make sure the air box boot or pod filter is secured
to the intake bell of the carburetor and secured with the proper hose clamp. It’s imperative there are NO air leaks.
Set up cables correctly - Your throttle cable(s) must be the correct length, correctly adjusted without slack and must be routed properly. That
way, when you turn the handlebars it won't pull on the cable and raise the throttle slide (increasing RPMs). You also have to make sure your throttle
slide opens and closes fully without any hesitation or drag on the slide. It's not fun dealing with a wide-open, stuck throttle while you whizzing
down the street or through the woods. If you're using a choke cable, the same rules apply. If your choke is not opening or closing fully, you can will
never get the bike tuned correctly. If you have multiple carburetors, make sure they are synced and moving at the exact same time (more about that
later). Also, be sure to check the play in your throttle cable. Ideally, there should be minimal play, about 1mm at the throttle.
Eliminate potential for fuel leaks -. Be sure you replace old hose clamps with new ones. This will save you aggravation in the long run. Fuel
leaks can be just as problematic as air leaks when dealing with carburation. If your new fuel hoses aren't a very tight fit, you'll need some kind of
hose clamps to avoid leaks. Make sure your fuel drain lines are routed under the engine and away from hot exhaust. Not only can fuel leaks keep
your bike from running right, they are extremely dangerous.
Use clean fuel - If you try to take a short cut by using old fuel, this one will get you every time! Please see inset above on fuel this will save you a
lot of time and aggravation. By the way, this tip is so important, it gets its own section!
Use clean or new air filters - If you are using the stock air box, be sure the filters are new or like new. Old filters may sometimes look okay, but it
only takes a little dirt on the outer layer to restrict air flow, which in turn, can effect proper tuning. On a lot of vintage bikes, you might find it
difficult to replace the stock filters. Aftermarket pod filters are a good, inexpensive alternative. Whether you're using the stock air box or pod filters,
make sure the air box boot or pod filter is securely fitted around the intake bell. Clamp it using a good, stainless steel hose clamp. For those of you
using velocity stacks on the street: sure, they look cool, but they're just not practical. They suck up dirt better than a Dyson sucks cat hair off the
floor. And the moment it starts to rain, you'll finally know how well you engine runs with water injection. They also require specialized jetting
considerations. But if you insist, just like pod filters and air box boots, velocity stacks need to be secured to the carburetor. There are some carbs,
like Amals, with velocity stacks that screw directly onto the intake bell. With these carbs, you might want to use a drop or two of blue Loctite Blue
242.
This CB450 has a Niche Cycle - made, dual VM32, Mikuni conversion
Before you can even think about attempting to jet or tune a bike with multiple carbs, they first have to be synced or balanced. This is a static balancing
process which differs completely from dynamic balancing balancing. Dynamic balancing is a process that takes place with the engine running and utilizing
vacuum gauges. Static balancing should be performed before the bike is ever started.
The goal with static balancing is to ensure that all cylinders are receiving an identical fuel/air mix at the exact same time.
Why do carbs have to be synced?
A multi-cylinder motorcycle is essentially multiple engines sharing the same crankshaft. If one of those engines isn't running at the exact same speed as the
other, performance will suffer greatly. Yes, it will run, but it won't run right. Customers are often shocked at how different the bike runs when the carbs are
properly synced. If a carb is out of sync, performance will certainly be diminished, but the bigger issue is the potential damage that can be done to the
engine. So, this is not a step you can short cut.
The method demonstrated in this tutorial is for two-cylinder motorcycles (since we sell most of our carbs for that purpose), but similar methods can be
applied to three, four or even six cylinder bikes (shout out to you Benelli Sei and CBX owners).
This is the idle screw. Depending on what Mikuni you have, it may be on the right or left side
Syncing Procedure
The objective of this procedure is to get the throttle slides of the carbs moving at the exact same time. Smooth bore carbs with directly connected linkages
are done a little differently and we’ll publish a section on that later. This tutorial is primarily for Mikuni round or flat side carburetors that are not linked
mechanically.
Mechanical syncing is a three part process: First, we get the throttle cables sorted and adjusted; then we set the idle; and finally, we sync the carbs to each
other.
Many conversion kits come with new cables, but even factory-built cables require adjustment. Keep in mind that factory-built cables (with the same part
number) can also vary in length. It shouldn't happen, but it does. So, if your bike has more than one cable, the first step it so compare the lengths of the
cables. If they vary, you'll have to make adjustments to compensate for different sizes.
With the the throttle closed, there should be just the slightest amount of play (about 1mm) in the cable. If you're using dual cables, the cables must have the
same amount of free length. That's the amount of inner cable extending beyond the outer sheath. If you're using a cable with a junction (1-into-2, or 1-into-
3) make sure that all cable ends are seated in the junction as well as in the twist throttle and carb top. If one or two of the cables are a few millimeters
different from the others, don't sweat it. You can use the adjusters to make up the difference in the cable. If it's more than a few millimeters, you might have
to solder on a new end fitting to adjust the cable. But, if you do end up having to solder a new end on, don't fret, it's not that big of a deal. You can find out
more about that in the cable soldering tutorial.
Setting the Idle Position
If the carbs are already mounted on the bike, try to position yourself where you can look down the bell of the carburetor (the side where the air filter
attaches). If you can't look directly down the bell, try using a mirror (of course, if the carbs aren't already mounted, this is easy). While doing this, you’ll
notice the base of the throttle slide has an arched cutout at the bottom. We talked about that above, it's called the slide cutout (see The Throttle Slide or
Throttle Valve above). The idle adjustment screw on the side of the carb mechanically raises the throttle slide in very small increments. As you turn the
screw clockwise, the end of the screw slides further under the skirt of the throttle slide pushing it up and increasing the fuel/air mixture to the engine
- increasing the idle speed.
Getting the idle set identically between the carbs is pretty easy - but you need to come up with some kind of inflexible gauge that you can move from one
carb to the next to judge the height of the throttle slide. One easy way to do this is to pull out a box of drill bits (aka drill index). If you look at the drill bits
in an index, you'll see they increase slightly in size from the smallest to the largest. That makes them perfect for this purpose. Sure, you could use
something like a nail or screwdriver, but what if you need a slightly smaller size and don't have a slightly smaller nail or a screwdriver? The cool thing
about drill bits is, if one is too small or too big, you just pull out the next size up or down. Make sure you use the smooth shaft of the drill bit and not the
cutting edge.
I typically use a drill index like this one from Harbor Freight. It In this demonstration the idle height is being gauged with a drill bit
has any size I might need for setting the idle
First, make sure your throttle slide is at the very bottom of the slide passage in the carburetor. To do this, you must back off the idle screw until turning it
has no effect on the slide. Watch the slide as you turn the screw counterclockwise. You should see the slide drop just a bit. If not, turn the screw in the
opposite direction until you see the slide move up, then stop and turn the screw in the opposite direction bringing the slide down a bit. Do this until the slide
stops moving. The goal is for the slide to be just barely touching the bottom of the carburetor venturi.
Keep in mind that a poorly adjusted throttle cable can be holding up the side. So once again, check your cable to make sure there's about 1mm play on one
of the ends. If you don't have that much play, adjust the throttle cable until you can get that much play. Remember, you can't have the throttle cable
adjustment affecting the idle.
With the slide all the way down, find a drill bit that just barely slides under the throttle slide cutout, without lifting up the slide. You want to use
the shank or smooth end of the bit, not the cutting edge. Now, swap out that bit for the next larger size. It should lift the slide up just slightly. If not, grab the
next biggest size. One of those bits will typically be enough for the bike to idle. Be sure the drill bit is at a 90-degree angle to the slide - in other words,
directly in front of the slide. If you hold it off to one side or the other of the cutout, it will change how much the slide is lifted. Make sure you use the same
procedure with the other carb(s). Now, with the drill bit still holding up the slide, turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise (righty-tighty) to raise the slide
just enough to release the drill bit. If you make the bit too lose, just loosen the screw a bit (turning counterclockwise) until the slide starts to make contact
with the bit again. Then, tighten the idle screw again until it lifts the slide just a hair. This is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of a turn. With your carb height
set, use the same technique to set the idle on the other carb(s).
If you find the bike idles too low, you can either go up to the next size drill bit and repeat the process above, or adjust the idle by turning the idle screw on
both carbs the exact same amount (clockwise). For example, if you increase the idle on one carb but turning it exactly 1/4 turn clockwise, then do the same
to the other. You can also make small, incremental turns to lower the idle as well.
These are carbs that are clearly out of sync. With the slide fully open on the left, These carbs are set identically and will introduce the same fuel/air mixture into the
this carb with have a higher fuel/air mixture volume than the carb on the right engine. To visualize this easier, we allowed the cutout to drop just below the top
of the intake bell.
If you take a moment to look at photo on the above left, you'll notice Depending how long and accessible your throttle cable is, you may be
the throttle slide on the right carburetor is about ¼” lower than the slide able to sync the carbs off the bike. If you can easily remove the carbs
on the left carburetor. The throttle slide on the left carburetor is even and the throttle, you may be able to sync the carbs remotely, off the
with the edge of the intake bell. When installing new carbs, you'll find bike. This is known as "bench syncing." Either of these methods are
in almost every case, the throttle slide on one carb will be lower than preferable to syncing on the bike because you can look directly down
the other carb. It's usually easiest to adjust the carb with the lowest the bell of the carburetor to see what you are doing, unimpaired by
slide. frame tubes, battery boxes or air cleaners.
Note: If your carbs are opposite from the carbs in the picture If your throttle assembly has electrical switches incorporated into it, it
above, just close the throttle and reopen it until the slide on the may be too much trouble to disconnect the electrical to remove the
right carb just touches the top of the intake bell and use this throttle assembly for bench syncing, but you may still be able to sync
same procedure described below. off the bike as in the photo above.
In the situation shown in the above left photo, the twist throttle was released the throttle slides were checked for slack. It was found the right carb had about
3-4mm of play in the cable. The adjuster on the top of the carb was backed out (turned counterclockwise) until the adjuster was snug against cable. The test
was run again, slowly twisting the throttle until the base of the left slide touched the top of the intake bell. It was again compared to the slide on the right
and they were closer, but not perfect. It took one more adjustment of a turn or two on the cable adjuster to bring the right carb perfectly to the edge of the
intake bell. The right side was now identical to the left (see the picture on the right). The carbs were synced!
Note: Don't jump around, adjusting one side and then the next. Use whichever carb has the higher throttle slide as a baseline and do all your
adjustments on the other.
With the left slide even with the right, open and release the throttle several times and check your slide height again. If the slides require no more adjustment,
tighten the nut on the adjuster and pull the boots down. After the nut is tightened, open and close the slides several more times and check for any
movement. If there is none, consider the carburetors properly synced. With the carbs synced, you're almost ready to move onto jetting the carb. Attach the
air box boots to the intake bell and secure with a hose clamp. If you're using pod filters, install the pod filters and tighten the hose clamps.
A note on smooth bore carbs
With some of the banked, smooth-bore carburetor sets you see installed on inline 4-cylinder bikes (like the CB550), they can only be bench synced off the
bike. They cannot be vacuum synced on the bike. That is because the sync adjustments are under the top covers of the carb and the bike can't be run without
the carb tops on. What were these engineers thinking?
If a carburetor has this mixture adjustment screw located closer to the air intake side of the carb (air cleaner side), this will normally be referred to as the
air-mixture screw. If the screw is located nearer to the spigot or flange mount side of the carb (nearest to the engine), then it is called a fuel-mixture screw.
During the initial start up, if you find the bike is able to idle, then you're pretty close on your pilot jet setting. You should at this time go ahead and adjust
the mixture screw. The procedure will be explained below, first with a single-cylinder engine, and then with a twin-cylinder engine.
Carburetor Jetting
Unless you’re really, really lucky, the chances of you installing a new carburetor and having it work perfectly without any adjustments are slim – extremely
slim. Of course, if you’re buying a set of carburetors that have been pre-jetted for your specific make and model, then the chances are pretty good that the
jetting is close or even spot on, but the possibility still exists that some minor adjustments might have to be made to make the bike run right.
We stated back at the beginning of this tutorial that you don’t want to get carbs that are too big or too small for your bike. If you’re the first guy to put
Mikuni pumper carbs on a 1958 Ariel Square Four, you’re going to have to do some experimenting to get the jetting right. But the internet is a wonderful
thing. Information is available at our fingertips that years ago may have taken years to uncover. For example, if you decide you want your old Husky
CR400 to start quicker by installing a Mikuni aftermarket carb, you might very well be able to find someone in a Husqvarna or vintage motocross user
group who has made that swap before and figured out the necessary jetting. More than likely, they’ll be happy to share what they’ve learned. The
information you may be able to get from a user group could prove invaluable. Why reinvent the wheel if you don’t have too? Of course, you shouldn't take
information gleaned from a user's group as gospel. Even if your bike seems like it's running good on somebody's jetting recommendation, it is always a
good idea to perform tests (as described below) to make sure you are not running lean or rich.
Pre-Tuning Priority
This has been mentioned before, but it's worth mentioning again. Before you begin adjusting or re-jetting a carburetor, you have to be sure the engine is
mechanically sound. Otherwise, your attempt to adjust the carbs could prove unsuccessful and aggravating.
1. Using a compression gauge, check the cylinder compression of the engine to be sure it is meeting factory specs (or pretty darned close). If you're
dropping under a 90 pounds, you've probably are experiencing an issue. You also might have a problem if your bike is belching blue smoke or and
your spark plug is oily. On a multi-cylinder engine, check all cylinders and confirm that each cylinder is within 10 pounds of the others.
2. Check the clearance in the valves and if they are off, adjust to factory tolerances.
3. Ignition timing - If you're using a system with points, make sure the points are in good shape and set to factory specs. Your spark advance has to be
working correctly as well. If the springs are hanging on by a thread, you'll need to address that as well.
4. Make sure ignition system is in good shape - that means a fresh spark plug(s) that is gapped correctly. You'll also need to make sure the high tension
lead (spark plug wire) is in good shape. If it's cracked or if the spark plug cap is in poor shape, you should replace it.
5. Install a clean air filter and make sure air-box boots and other connections are secure. A dirty air filter can seriously restrict air flow. If your air box
boots are cracked or loose, you might be increasing air flow that isn't compensated for by the carb and that air also will not be filtered in any case.
6. Fuel System - make sure you are running clean and filtered fuel - see inset above "Notes on fuel."
7. Exhaust - Be sure to check for leaks around the exhaust manifold where it connects to the header. Also check for leaks between the header and
muffler. If you have exhaust leaks, you'll no doubt hear popping on deceleration. If you can hear your baffle rattling around in your muffler or if
your bike's been getting louder lately, you might need to check the packing around the baffle.
If during your inspection, you discover low compression, ignition out of time, valves set incorrectly, dirty air filter or fuel and any other performance issue
outside the carb, you really need to take the time to address these problems before you attempt to adjust the carbs. Each one of the items described above
can have a direct effect on how the bike runs.
The stages of adjustment
When dialing in your jetting you need to start with the idle circuit and build upon that. Once you finish the idle circuit, you can move on to jetting the mid-
range, and then the top end settings. You have to work in this progressive, bottom-up sequence because each circuit is additive. That means each component
works in concert with the component that precedes it. If the preceding circuit isn't correct, the one that follows likely won't be either.
Take a look at the diagram on the right. At the bottom of the diagram, you'll see the throttle is closed, and the idle range is being controlled by the pilot jet
and mixture screw. As soon as you begin lifting the throttle, the cutaway in the throttle slide begins taking over as the engine revs into the mid-range. The
idle circuit doesn't stop working. But, its affect is minimized because the cutout on the throttle slide is drawing in a much greater fuel/air mixture. Even
though the pilot jet is still providing fuel, the amount is so minimal, it has no real effect on on this end of the performance range.
When everything is marked you have a perfect gauge for determining what part of
the power band is in play and where you might be having issues (see illustration
below):
The Harbor Freight plug cleaner costs about $15 and does a great job
Keep in mind, your plugs are not always going to fall into the range of either black and white. Often, you'll find the color of the insulators are somewhere in
between black and white. For example, let's say your plug isn't a nice caramel, but it's a darker white maybe even a light tan. Close but not exactly where
you want to be. That color would indicate you're not far off from having the mixture dialed in, but you're still a bit lean. So rather than put in a larger pilot
jet, you might just try enrichening the mixture a bit with the mixture screw. Just make sure you turn the mixture screw in the right direction (see Adjusting
the Mixture Screw). The opposite would be true if you found an insulator that was a bit gray rather than black or sooty. In that case you would be slightly
rich and you'd want to try to lean the mixture out a bit with the mixture screw before re-jetting.
If you find you need to re-jet, you are going to have to run through the jetting test described above. And, that will require installing new spark plugs. This
can get expensive if you end up installing a half-a-dozen or more plugs (which you will). If you have a compressor, you can spend about $15 and get get an
inexpensive plug cleaner. Unfortunately, the insulators on spark plugs can't be properly cleaned by just dipping them in gas, spraying them off with carb
clean or running them under a wire wheel. The only way to make the insulator resemble a new plug is by bead-blasting the plug. Harbor Freight makes an
inexpensive, plug blaster you can buy on-line, or in one of their many stores across the country.
Please be aware that media used in a bead-blaster (even the little spark plug blaster) can seriously damage an engine. If you get this material in the cylinder
it can wear out the rings, piston and cylinder very quickly. That is why I recommend after blasting the spark plug, you spray if off with an alcohol cleaner
(like brake clean) and then blow it off with compressed air.
Even with a plug cleaner, you'll still want to have several new spark plugs standing by for the test.
This cart from Mikuni shows in detail the relationship between components and throttle range
Adjusting and testing the mid-range fuel mixture
As mentioned before, if you divided the throttle into four equal segments, the first 25 percent would be controlled by both the pilot circuit (at idle only) and
the cutaway in the throttle slide (valve). At the moment the throttle is lifted, the little crescent cutaway in the throttle slide begins to allow more air into the
fuel air mixture. This is indicated by the chart on the right that can be found in the Mikuni products catalog. Simultaneously, the needle jet is picking up
fuel from the float bowl and matching it to the increased air volume provided by the opening of the throttle slide cutaway.
As the RPMs climb, and engine moves from the first 25 percent to 50 percent power, the jet needle moves up through the needle jet exposing opening in the
jet and allowing more fuel to mix with increased air now flowing from a large opening in the throttle slide. If you were to look down the venturi of your
carburetor, you would see that it is about half blocked by the throttle slide.
As the throttle slide is lifted, the bike advances into the upper end of the mid-range. This is typically know as the "cruise" settings. When you're riding on
the highway (unless you're on a really small bike), the engine isn't normally being run at full throttle, it's usually in the 3/4 throttle range. During this time,
the jet needle has the largest effect on the fuel mixture. On most Mikuni carbs, the jet needle is adjustable.There are usually four or five positions where the
needle can either be raised or lowered using by moving the E-clip (more on that a little later). When the needle is lower in the jet, it allows less fuel and a
leaner mixture. When the needle is raised, more fuel flows through the needle jet and creates a richer condition.
It is important to note these components work together seamlessly so it can sometimes be difficult to pinpoint exactly what component is causing an issue.
That is why, when working within the mid-range, you often start with the easiest and cheapest method of adjustment - and that is moving the clip on the jet
needle. Let's talk a little more about this important component. To eliminate confusion, we'll refer to the jet needle as the needle, and we'll call the needle
jet, the jet. At idle, the needle sits inside the jet blocking fuel intake. The needle is attached to the throttle slide (throttle valve) and protrudes out the bottom.
As the slide is pulled up by the throttle cable, the needle follows. With the needle higher in the jet, the amount of fuel entering the mixing chamber is
increased until reaching 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 throttle to full throttle, the needle raised out of the jet, eliminating any obstruction and allowing the
maximum amount of fuel to flow through the main jet into the mixing chamber. On many Mikuni carbs, the main jet is either attached to or sharing the
same chamber as the needle jet. One more thing about the needle. These jet needles are available in many sizes to fine tune fuel flow. The are available in
both single taper and double taper with a wide variety of sizes available for most carbs (see the chart below).
Getting back to the jet, it's really easy to adjust how high or how low the needle sits in the jet. This is done by moving the e-ring or jet needle positioning
clip. This little clip fits inside the grooves on the top of the needle. There are usually 5 grooves in most Mikuni needles. The clips come installed in the
center groove from the factory.
As discussed before, to make the mid-range leaner, you would raise the clip to a higher notch, which would drop the needle deeper into the jet. This restricts
fuel flow. Conversely, to make the mixture richer in the mid-range, you would place the clip in a lower notch, which would raise the needle. This would
allow more fuel to pass through the jet.
Should you find that raising or lowering the needle does not have enough effect in the lower part of the mid-range (25-50 percent), you can often
compensate by installing a different throttle slide with either a larger or smaller cutaway. The larger cutaway will allow in more air, making the mixture
leaner. A smaller slide cutaway would enrich the mixture. Mikuni offer slides for their round slide carbs in 4 to 5 different sizes. Flat slide carbs generally
do not offer as many sizes.
If you find the mid-range is good between 25-50 percent throttle but is problematic between 50-75 percent throttle, a new jet or needle may be required.
Mikuni offers several needle jet sizes and as mentioned before, a wide variety of needles as well.
If at anytime during testing you change the position of the needle, the needle itself, the jet or the throttle slide, you will need to perform a plug check
relative and specific to that range of performance (i.e, low mid-range, cruise, etc). It is also highly recommended that you don't make more than one change
at a time, for instance lowering the needle clip and, at the same time, installing a smaller jet. Doing this can skew your test results. If you noticed a
significant change in the mixture, you wouldn't know if it was due to the needle position or the jet.
Throttle slides available from Mikuni
Note: this procedure should only be performed once you have achieved the correct setting for the pilot or idle circuit and verified with a plug check.
You will need a spark plug wrench and a fresh set of spark plugs. Since you be on the road for this test, don't forget to take them with you. Find an
area where you can safely work on the bike (away from traffic) and then ride the bike at mid-rpm levels (50-percent throttle) for 3-5 minutes. If
there are stop signs or traffic lights, this won't do. If your RPMs are limited by speed limits, you can use a lower gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to keep the
speed down. It is imperative with this test, that once the test has begun, you do not vary the mid-range RPMs for 3-5 minutes.
Start the engine (with the dirty plug from the previous test) and let it warm to operating temperature. If the plug is deeply fouled (very black) put in
a clean plug.
Once the bike is warm, install a new plug.
Take the bike out on the road, keeping the RPMs steady at about 50% throttle for approximately 3-5 minutes.
One you have a safe place to pull off, shut down the bike without backing off the throttle. This can be done using the using the kill switch or kill
button. Do not let the bike return to idle with the engine running. Coast to a safe stopping point where you can work on the bike (preferably a
parking lot or turn-out safely away from traffic).
Either let the bike cool for about 10 minutes or, if the bike is still hot, use a pair of leather gloves to remove the spark plug (careful, the plug, engine
and exhaust will be extremely hot and you can get burnt even with gloves on).
With the spark plug(s) out, and check the color. If you are on a multi-cylinder motorcycle, you will need to check all plugs.
If you find the spark plug insulator is a nice caramel color (see plug color chart above), your jetting is right where it needs to be. If you are leaning towards
the lean (white) side, you might try dropping the clip (and raising the needle) on your jet needle one notch and performing the test again with a fresh plug.
This will allow intake of more fuel in the mid-range. If you find you are on the rich side, you might try raising the clip (and dropping the needle) to limit
the intake of fuel in the mid-range. Remember, there are other components that alter the fuel/air mix of the mid-range including the slide cutout, jet needle
size as well as the needle jet size.
Once you have achieved that nice caramel color with the spark plug insulators, you can move onto adjusting the top-end rpm mixture.
Mikuni's main jet styles
Mikuni has several different styles of main jets. The most typical are the large hex style and the large round style. You can use the Mikuni chart on the
right to determine what type of jet you have. This chart also provide the various size ranges available for each style jet.
If you're working on a vintage motorcycle with a Mikuni OEM carb, you might be surprised to find your main jet is still available.
Note: this procedure should only be performed once you have achieved the correct settings for the pilot and mid-range components and have verified them with a plug check.
As you did with the mid-range check, you will need a spark plug wrench and several fresh spark plugs. Since you be on the road for this test, don't
forget to take them with you. Find an area where you can safely work on the bike (away from traffic) and then ride the bike at high-rpm levels (75-
percent throttle) for 3-5 minutes. If there are stop signs or traffic lights, this won't do. If your RPMs are limited by speed limits, you can use a lower
gear (3rd or 4th) to keep the speed down. It is imperative with this test, that once the test has begun, you do not vary the mid-range RPMs for 3-5
minutes.
Start the engine (with the dirty plug from the previous test) and let it warm to operating temperature. If the plug is deeply fouled (very black) put in
a clean plug.
Once the bike is warm, install a new plug.
Take the bike out on the road, keeping the RPMs steady at about 75-100% throttle for approximately 3-5 minutes. Be careful to obey all speed laws
and do not go faster than your ability to ride the bike safely.
One you have a safe place to pull off, shut down the bike without backing off the throttle. This can be done using the using the kill switch or kill
button. Do not let the bike return to idle with the engine running. Coast to a safe stopping point where you can work on the bike (preferably a
parking lot or turn-out safely away from traffic).
Either let the bike cool for about 10 minutes or, if the bike is still hot, use a pair of leather gloves to remove the spark plug (careful, the plug, engine
and exhaust will be extremely hot and you can get burnt even with gloves on).
With the spark plug(s) out, and check the color. If you are on a multi-cylinder motorcycle, you will need to check all plugs.
Once again, if you find the spark plug insulator is a nice caramel color (see plug color chart above), your jetting is right where it needs to be. If you are
leaning towards the lean (white) side, you will want to step up to a larger main jet. You should do this in relatively small increments. If you have a 150
main jet, you might want to try a 155 or 160 main. Do not make big jumps in jetting. For instance, don't jump from a 150 to a 175. Remember, you are
trying to narrow the scope of your search. Making big jumps doesn't help.
Once you have achieved that nice caramel color with the spark plug insulators, you can move onto adjusting the top-end rpm mixture.
Once you have have the fuel mixture dialed in, you'll notice your bike will perform significantly better. Please keep in mind, this is a generalized guide to
tuning and jetting a Mikuni round-slide carburetor. This does not provide all the answers to all carburetor issues. But, this is really valuable information for
anybody who works on motorcycles - from weekend warriors to pros. It's also good to note, that while the design of the carbs may differ, most of these
principals in apply to Kehin, Delorto, Bing, Hatachi, Weber or almost any other carburetor.
Carburetor tuning is a science - one that takes years to master. There are ways to fine tune a particular section of the power-band as well as some less-
critical components, like the air jet (a part of the high speed circuit which enriches the mixture as the RPMs increase), that aren't covered here. This is not a
course on mastering the carburetor, rather a straight forward guideline to help mechanics with the basics of tuning and jetting. There's enough information
here to satisfy most tuning needs. Not enough for those in racing circles or perfectionists, but enough for the average mechanic and layman.
You'll find there also isn't much information on diagnosing carburetor problems. This tutorial will note some of the easily identifiable carburetor symptoms,
but issues related to a poorly running motorcycle may be inaccurately linked to the carb when it is really rooted with ignition, valve timing, valve
adjustment or compression issues. Of course, a competent mechanic, through a series of tests, will eventually find the root case of these issues, but it's not
always straight forward or obvious. And, these types of issues are not covered in this tutorial.
Diagnosing Carburation Issues
Poor Idling:
Poor idling can be caused by too much or too little fuel or air in fuel/mixture. Perform a idle circuit spark plug test as described
in the “Adjusting and Testing the Idle Circuit” section above. That way you can determine if the symptom(s) you are experiencing are related to a rich or
lean condition
Symptom Solution
After testing the pilot circuit (described above), if the color of the spark Check the air filter to see if it is blocked or dirty. Remove the
plug insulator is a dark-colored to black, you have a rich condition and filter and put in new plugs to see if idle improves
may experience one or more of the following symptoms:
Adjust the mixture screw to lean the mixture (see above on how
to identify whether you have a fuel-mixture screw or air-
mixture screw and which way it should be turned to lean out
Engine floods easily when starting the mixture).
Uneven idle Install a smaller pilot jet. Move down to a marginally smaller
jet. It is better to work in small increments
Misfires and dies during idle
Check to see if the float lever is too high. If so, try lowering it
by 1/2mm
Check to ensure the choke is fully closed and not being held
open by the lever or a damaged cable
Symptom Solution
Lower the clip on the jet needle (one stop at a time for each
test)
Initial engine acceleration feels like it is lagging or slow -
behind the power curve Replace throttle slide with one that has a smaller cutaway (this
is a more expensive option, use this as a lot resort)
Under snap-throttle acceleration engine is slow to gain RPMs
and picks up speed as throttle is rolled off
Note: It is important to only try a single solution and re-test. Do not
Engine pops and spits in the carburetor as throttle is opened attempt multiple solutions at one time!
The engine surges and cannot find stable RPMs
The engine overheats and can include knocking or pinging
Engine performance gets worse when air filter is removed
Engine performance is worse in cold condition than in warmer
conditions
Poor Cruise Performance :
Review the instructions above for a top-end spark plug test. Proceed as you would for a top-end test except to reduce the RPM about 25 percent from wide
open setting. This will provide a good setting for a cruising-range spark plug test. That way you can determine if the symptoms below are related to a rich
or lean condition.
Symptom Solution
After cruise testing, if your spark plug insulator is dark-colored to
black, you have a rich condition and may experience one or more of the
following
Raise the needle E-clip one step and test again
symptoms:
Reduce needle jet by one size
Replace needle with one having a shallow taper
RPMs not steady and fluctuate
Poor response to roll-on throttle Note: It is important you only try a single solution and re-test. Do not
attempt multiple solutions at one time!
After cruise testing, if your spark plug insulator is dull to bright white,
you have a lean condition and may experience one or more of the
following
symptoms: Lower the needle E-clip by one step to raise the jet needle.
Test after adjusting the needle
Replace needle jet with the next larger jet
Engine generally runs well in the cruise range but is hotter Replace the needle with one having a sharper taper
than normal
Symptom Solution
After top-end testing (described above), if your spark plug insulator is
dark-colored to black, you have a rich condition and may experience
one or more of the following symptoms: