Lecture 1

Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed

Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics

sinaiuniversity.net
Cosmetics
 Definition:

Cosmetics defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured,

sprinkled, sprayed on, introduced into or applied to the human body
or any part for cleaning, beautifying, promotion attractiveness or
altering the appearance .
A cosmetic only cleans, beautifies, alters the
appearance, adds fragrance or stops the
development of bad odour.
It changes, lightens or even diminishes colour
but it does not prevent or cure physical
ailments or pathological conditions of the
body.
 The ordinary toothpaste and toothpowder are cosmetics since they are
intended to clean the teeth and impart a pleasant feeling to the breath. But in
case such a dentifrice incorporates anti- enzyme agents, antibiotics, fluorides,
ammoniated materials and other substances which bring about change in the
oral cavity and prevent cares then such preparations can be called drugs
although they may not case to be cosmetics.
 Official Cosmetics include:
Skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toenail polish, eye and facial
makeup, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays and gels and many other types
of products.
 Medicated cosmetics:
Products that are used as cosmetics, but are also used to treat or prevent disease, or affect the structure or
functions of the human body e.g. Anticaries toothpaste, hormone creams, , acne lotions and creams, bleaching
creams…etc
 Adulterated cosmetics:
 If it contains any poisonous or deleterious substance which may make the product harmful to users.
 If is contain decomposed substances

 If its container is composed of any poisonous substances.

 If it contains a non permitted color additives.

 Misbranded cosmetics:
 If its labelling is false, label doesn't contain all the required information.
Classification of cosmetic products:
1-Liquid preparations:
 Perfumes

 Hair sprays, hair setting lotions and colorants.

 Antiperspirants and deodorants

 Brilliantine oil, shaving lotions

 Sunscreen oils

2-Emulsified products:
 Hand creams, body lotions

 Hair dressing and conditioners

 Shaving creams

 Sunscreen creams or lotions

 Make-up preparations
3-Toiletries
 Talc and deodorant powders

 Feminine hygiene preparations

 Hair shampoos

 Toothpaste

4-Household products
 Polishes

 Cleaners
May be also classified according to the use into:
 Skin-care products

 Hair-care products

 Color cosmetics

 Baby-care

 Dental products

 Perfumery

 Personal hygiene products.

 Cosmetics are generally classified and considered under four main heads
depending upon their function.
 Decorative function: e.g. nail enamels,
hair lacquers, lipstick etc.
 Corrective function: e.g. day
creams and face powders.
 Protective function: e.g. Suntan products
 Curative or therapeutic function:
e.g. antiperspirants and hair preparations
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 Another classification of cosmetics according to
where theses cosmetics are applied :

 Cosmetics for the Skin  Cosmetics for the Nails

• Powders Nail Polish and Polish
removers
• Creams -Solid –liquid- Lotions
Manicure Preparations
• Deodorants
• Bath and Cleansing Preparations Make up  Cosmetics for the Teeth
and Mouth
• Suntan Preparations Dentifrices
Mouth Washes

Cosmetics for the Hair  Borderline and

Shampoos -Soap and Soapless Tonics Kindered Products
• Hair Dressings and Brilliantines Hair Waving Eye Products
Preparations Shaving media Foot Powders and
• Depilatories Applications
The Relation of Cosmetic Products to Drugs
The distinction between cosmetic and drug products is based on
the definitions of these articles.
 The FDC Act define cosmetic as;
1) Mentioned before
2) Articles intended for use as a components of any such articles except soap of alkali
salts of fatty acid.
 The FDA define drugs as
1) Articles recognized in the official pharmacopoeia ,official national formulary or
any supplement of them.
2) Articles intended for use in diagnosis, cure, treatment or prevention of diseases.
3) Articles intended to affect the structure or any function of the body.
 Borders in relation of drug and cosmetics
1. Cosmetics must be preparations NOT devices or toilet articles,
e.g. (razor, tweezers, combs,..).

2. Cosmetics include such cleansing agents such as shaving creams, shampoos,

cleansing creams and lotions but do not include toilet and bath soaps even when
they are packed as gift sets.

3. Cosmetics are generally used upon the human body ,hence room deodorants, air
refreshes, are not cosmetics.

4. Cosmetics may include drugs which used for their cosmetic effect, such as
antiperspirants in which the physiological effect of it makes them drug whereas
the purpose of their using makes them cosmetics.
 Stability of Cosmetics

 Isthe ability of the formulation in specified container

closure system to remain within the defined physical,
chemical, microbiological, therapeutic and
toxicological specifications till the end of the
recorded date, under specified storage conditions.
 Microbiological Testing

 During the development phase, attention should be paid to the

microbiological integrity of the formulation. Professional advice
should be sought from well-trained microbiologist.
 Safety Testing

 The product must be safe under the condition of use and misuse. Safe
products arise from a combination of careful formulating, good
background data and adequate testing. Most successful commercial
products have been adequately tested and have history of safe use.
 Safety data for each raw material should be available from the
manufacturer and should be reviewed.
 After a through background check, the finished products should be tested .
 THANK YOU
For any questions feel free
to contact me by mail
Osama.sayed@su.edu.
eg
Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed
Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics
 Lecture 2

Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed

Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics

sinaiuniversity.net
Raw Materials for Cosmetics
 1.Waxes
Waxes are one of the most important raw materials used
in the manufacture of cosmetics

Obtained from vegetable, animal and mineral sources

Hydrogenated oils
They are not true waxes but are waxy materials
e.g.,
Hydrogenated castor oil and Higher (cetyl) alcohols.

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Beeswax
 Bees wax is an ester of fatty acid and fatty alcohols
(myricyl palmitate) + little cerotic acid.
 It is of two types namely the yellow variety and white
beeswax (by bleaching from the yellow one).
 An important wax for cosmetics.
 It is an important constituent of creams, lipsticks, and
eye make-up.

Beeswax + borax give emulsifier of w/o

emulsion which use in many cosmetic creams.
Spermaceti

Obtained from sperm whale.

 Mainly cetyl palmitate.
Used in cold creams to improve gloss and to
stabilize the emulsion cream.

Carnauba and candillila waxes of vegetable type

Both are hard waxes of high melting point .

Both are used in lipsticks to give them hardness. “excess
imparts brittleness”.
So, high concentration should be avoid.
Other natural waxes

Chinese insect wax, shellac, Japan wax, sumac wax,

myrtle wax and raffia wax.

They can be used in place of beeswax due to their

hardness

Lanolin

 Obtained from sheep-wool.

 It acts as an emulsifier and emollient.

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Mineral waxes

 They are composed of hydrocarbons which are non-hydrophilic

and unsaponifiable.

 Paraffin, ozokerite, ceresin and petrolatum are important.

Ceresin

 It is purified crude ozokerite.

 It is used as an alternative to beeswax or hard paraffin to raise
the M.P. of lipsticks.
 Waxes are used in cosmetics
because

 Form a water-repellent film

 Are emulsifiers or auxiliary emulsifiers

 Are thickening agents improving the texture and

smoothness of emulsions

 Improve emolliency of film left on the skin, so they give

good gloss to cosmetic preparations.

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 2. Fatty Acids
Fatty Acids are main constituents of oils and fats

Found combined in an amount of 92-95% with glycerin.

Lower F.A. contain < 10 carbon atoms

Higher F.A. contain > 10 carbon atoms

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F.A. are classified according physical condition into:
saturated and unsaturated fatty acids.

Saturated F.A.: are solid at room temperature

e.g.: lauric, myristic, palmatic, and stearic acid.

Unsaturated F.A.: are liquid at room temperature

e.g.: oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and ricinoleic acids.

Saponification of fatty acid can be done with alkalis

(hydroxides, Triethanol amine TEA, even carbonates).

This is called the “saponification value”.

Myristic acid

 Used as a constituent of soaps and shaving creams.

 Its soaps are as soluble and free lathering as those from coconut
oil, and have a mild action on the skin.

Oleic acid

It is a yellowish syrupy liquid which solidifies in the cold

Vegetable and animal fats

 Termed glycerides, since they are combined with glycerin

and they are also known as tri-glycerides.

 Solid fats have high content of high melting point fatty

acids.

 Hydrogenation of unsat. F.A. improve the color and

eliminate the odor.

 E.g., : Olive oil, almond oil, and soybean oil

Castor oil

 An important constituent in cosmetics (lipstick), as it acts as a

solvent for eosin and imparts a quality of spreading.

Almond oil

 A colorless to pale yellow liquid;

 It lubricates the skin and gives it suppleness, and is used in the

preparation of skin nourishing creams and milks.
 3.Vitaminised Oils
 Vitamins as such are not permitted to be used by the
cosmetics but they can use natural oils rich in vitamins.

Turtle oil

 This oil is obtained from various organs of the huge sea turtles.

 It can be obtained as solids or liquids at room temperature.

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Avocado oil

 This is obtained from the dried fruits (avocado pear) in America.

 It is the most penetrating oil, so valuable in massaging the body.

 It is rich in phytosterol and lecithin which have good nourishing

properties. Vitamins A, B, C, and E are present in it.

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Iso-linoleic acid

 It is also called vitamin F, Linoleic acid occurs in some fats.

 Acid is absorbed by human beings in variable amounts according to

the more or less regular working of the digestive system.

 Source: linseed oil.

 Used in sunburn preparations as it heals and prevents erythema.

 Good for hair, so used in shampoos and other hair products.

 Lack of vitamin F leads to brittleness of nail, so used in nail polish

 4. Lecithin
 Animal type is present in egg yolks (8% - 16%), whereas
vegetable type is obtained from soybean.

 It has nourishing effect and acts as antioxidant.

5. Triethanolamine and its soaps (tea)

 A derivative of ammonia. Viscous, very hygroscopic liquid.

 TEA soaps give very stable emulsions.

 They are perfectly neutral, so does not cause skin irritation.

 It combines the properties of glycerin and ammonia.

 6. Cholesterol and lanolin
Lanolin is a fat of the wool of the sheep, It is also called wool fat.
It is a yellowish, tenacious substance, with a melting point varying from 40
to 44°C.
It is readily absorbed by skin and has no tendency to rancid.
Cholesterol or cholesterin is a white or faintly yellow odorless substance; it is
present as ester in lanolin.
It has water-absorbing properties, so useful as a stabilizer for w/o
emulsions.
Natural or pure lanolin has many disadvantages. Its odor is difficult to
mask and its stickiness is unpleasant, more so in massage creams.
Cholesterol is preferred to lanolin because it lacks these disadvantages.

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 7. BENTONITE

 Bentonite is a colloidal native aluminium silicate or

clay.

 There are two main types of bentonite namely 'sodium

bentonite' and 'calcium bentonite'.

 It absorbs 30% of its weight water.

 It is used in massage creams, lipstick.

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 8. Petroleum Jelly Vaso-sterols

• Petroleum jellies or vaselines are viscous decolorized

neutral petroleum oils and their long fiber varieties are
preferred.

• They form a protective layer on skin surface. They prevent

surface hydration and are regarded as desic

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 9. Alkaline Stearates

• Creams and other preparations should have as low PH-

value as possible, so that they do not absorb skin's acid
secretions and thus destroy the physiological acid covering.

• Thus in cosmetic products, minimum of alkaline stearate

should be used.

• Soda and ammonium stearate yield hard creams.

• Potash and TEA stearate yield soft creams.

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 10.Fatty Acid Ester

 Fatty acid esters are important new materials for

cosmetics; they are more hydrophilic than the fatty alcohols
and emulsions in which they are used have great stability.

Glyceryl-mono-stearate
 A white powder generally available with a
monostearate content of 40% and a maximum free
glycerin content of 7%.

 Available as a non-self-emulsifying grade and self-

emulsifying grade.
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Diglycol laurate

 (diethylene glycol monolaurate) is a pale yellow oily

liquid, insoluble in water.

 It is use as emulsifier in O/W emulsion.

Diglycol stearate

 A white wax-like substance having an important

application in cosmetics, as an emulsifying agent.

 It is very useful in the production of non-greasy cold

creams, skin foods and tissue creams etc…
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 11. Anti-oxidants

 Antioxidants are used to prevent oxidation of certain

materials in cosmetics.
 It should be odourless and non-toxic.
 Large number of various types of antioxidants are in use:
lauryl gallate and propyl gallate

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 12. Colors

 Color in cosmetics is very important from the point of

view of consumer appeal.
 The term pigment generally denotes a colored compound
which is insoluble in a particular solvent.
 The term dye denotes a chemical compound which is
soluble in certain solvents.
 Soluble colors may be water soluble, alcohol soluble or
oil soluble.
 Insoluble colors can be further divided into
 Organic compounds such as the lake dyes and pigments
 Inorganic dyes such as the oxides of certain metals e.g., ultramarines,
greens, blacks and the metallic colors.
 Titanium dioxide is white, opaque and gives covering
shade on skin, so helps in making makeup.

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 13. Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are the products which make it possible to unite aqueous
and oily liquids intimately to produce emulsions (creams or lotions).

Emulsifiers in general can be broadly divided in three categories:

Anionic, cationic and non-ionic.

Anionic emulsifiers

They are: fatty acid soaps (potassium, sodium, ammonium, and

triethanolamine stearates), polyol fatty acid esters eg. glyceryl
monostearate with soaps, sulphuric esters (sodium lauryl and cetyl
sulphates) etc.

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Cationic emulsifiers
Not used that universally but have unique properties.
They tend to produce emulsions with an acid pH and have germicidal
effect, e.g., cetyl pyrimidinium chloride.

Non-ionic emulsifiers

Show no tendency to ionize.

They are used, as they do not lend to produce a surface crust, e.g.,
sorbitan monostearate.

 Also Natural gums like tragacanth and alginates, cellulose gums like
methyl cellulose and sodium CMC, clays like bentonite and synthetic
polymers like polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) are also used as emulsifiers.
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 14. Preservatives

 Cosmetics contain oils and fats in contact with water, so they should be
protected against the growth of bacteria and fungus and from becoming
rancid.
 Preservatives should be: effective against all types of micro-organisms,
soluble, non-toxic, compatible with other ingredients, not change pH of
preparation, cheap, and its effect should last by storage.
 Various chemicals like benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium propionate
and salicylic acids etc. are used as preservatives but because of various
reasons they are not used in cosmetics.
 Esters of p-hydroxy benzoic acid are found to be excellent preservatives.
Methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl-p-hydroxy benzoates are generally used in
cosmetics as preservatives. (Methyl paraben, propyl paraben).

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 15. Perfumes
• Perfumes are used in almost all cosmetics. Commonly used essential
oils are: rose, bay, thyme, patchouli, lavender, orange blossom,
caraway, almond, sandal-wood, cedar, cinnamon, cascarilla, lemon
and nutmeg oils.

• Musk, civet, ambergus etc. are the commonly used perfumery

materials from animal source.

• Natural perfumery materials are quite expensive and thus synthetic

materials are nowadays being increasingly used.

• Perfumes are composed of various constituents called notes. Scale 1-

1oo is used based on volatility.

From 1-14: most volatile (citrus oil), from 15-60: blending agents
(terpenes), and from 60-100: least volatile (musk).
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• Perfumes are incorporated into cosmetics at the earliest period
of manufacture, after that heating should be avoided. Thus
perfume should be added into a cream or lotion during the

cooling stage.

• Selection of perfume for cosmetics and quantities used should be

carefully controlled as some of the perfumery chemicals cause
irritation to the skin ( e,g., terpenes, phenyl acetic acid,
hydroxycitronellol, benzoic acid, phenyl acetaldehyde).

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16. Pure Water (Distilled or Dematerialized
water)
It appears rather strange to include water in this
chapter of raw materials, but this is to emphasize the
need to use pure water in the preparation of cosmetics.
Because of :

The effect of lime-containing water on shampoos and

soaps formation of whitish lime salts and poor lather.

Stability of emulsion
Appearance of product, S0 it is needed to use pure water
in cosmetics product.
48
 THANK YOU
For any questions feel free
to contact me by mail
Osama.sayed@su.edu.
eg
Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed
Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics
 Lecture 3

Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed

Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics

sinaiuniversity.net
Skin-care products
CREAMS
 Creams
Definition of cream:

A solid or semisolid emulsion for skin application.

If an emulsion is of low viscosity flows under the influence of
gravity, it is called lotion e.g. NEVEA cream and lotion.
 Skin creams
Classification of Skin Creams:

From the point view of cosmetic science, there are

three methods of classification (functional,
subjective, and physicochemical) can be correlated
(see the following table).
•Functional Physicochemical Subjective
•Cleansing creams •Medium-to-high oil content •Oily

•Cold creams •Oil-in-water or water-in-oil •Difficult to „rub‟ in

•Massage creams emulsion •May be stiff and
•Neutral pH „rich‟.
•Night creams
•May contain surfactants to •Availableas
improve penetration and creams not lotions.
suspension properties
•Moisturizing creams •Low oil content •Easilyspreadable
•Foundation cream •Usuallyoil-in-water and „rub in‟ quickly

•Vanishing creams emulsion •Available

as
•Neutral to slightly acidic pH
creams or lotions

•May contain emollients and

special moisturizing
ingredients
•Hand and body •Low to-medium oil •Easily
protective content. spreadable but do
•Usuallyoil-in-water not „rub in‟
emulsion. •Very popular in
•May have slightly lotion form.
alkaline or acidic pH.
•May contain „protective
factors‟, especially
silicones and lanolin.

•All-purposes •Medium oil content. •Veryoften

creams •Oil-in-water or water-in-
slightly oily but
oil emulsion. should be easy to
spread.
 1-Cleansing Creams
•To remain healthy and of good appearance
the skin surface ,it is required to remove grime,
sebum, dead cells, crusts, and applying make-
up that can accumulate on the clean skin
surface.
•Water is a cheap agent for skin cleansing, but
can not remove oils.
•By emulsification, soaps are able to improve
cleansing effect of water, however, it may
remove too much oil from surface, leaving it
dry and rough due to alkalinity of the soaps,
also soaps is inconvenient to use outside
bathrooms.
•Cleansing creams and lotions can be prepared by the
combination of water and the oils, affecting the
cleansing of the skin surface efficiently and pleasantly.
•Moreover, if they are properly formulated they can
accomplish this without completely degreasing the
skin.

•In use, a cleansing cream or lotion is spread onto the

skin, using the finger-tips, and massaged onto the
surface.
• This action serves to loosen and suspend the
grime and soil in the emulsion. A subsequent
wipe with a tissue or wool pad removes the
majority of the applied cleansing emulsion.
• The cleansing power of cleansing creams
depends on concentration of the oily phase in
their composition.
• Related to cleansing creams is a group of
emulsions known collectively as „cold creams‟
(the name comes from the cooling effect of such
products on the skin).
• The inclusion of borax into the formulae
imparted increased stability since, by reaction
with the free fatty acids in the natural waxes,
it was able to form sodium soaps, thus
producing an emulsifier in suitable amount.
 Beeswax-borax emulsions
• Beeswax-borax emulsions are still popular and
commercially viable.

• Beeswax itself suffers from two disadvantages:

1. That it has a distinctive smell which usually has to be
masked in the final product.
2. Being a natural product, quality and price are variable
from batch into batch.

 When a borax solution is mixed with molten beeswax,

the sodium soap of the wax fatty acids will be formed at
the oil-water interface, thus producing the emulsifying
agent in a self-emulsified cream i.e. no emulsifier is
added in the formulation but it is formed by reaction of
two ingredients present in the formula.
The following is an example of water-in-oil
emulsion.

R/ Percent
• Beeswax 5.00
• Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) 45.0
• Borax 0.20
• Microcrystalline wax 7.00
• Water 32.8
• Perfume, preservative q.s.
N.B:
The emulsifier and the thickening agent
alternatives to waxes as thickeners for a
continuous oil phase are bentones (quaternary
hectorites)
R/ Percent
Beeswax 12.0
Mineral oil 53.0
Quaternium-18 hectorite 0.70
Borax 0.70
Water 33.2
Isopropanol 0.40
Factors which influence the type of emulsion
include :
a) The ratio of oil to water. It was found that 45
per cent was a critical level for the water
phase; below this level, the creams will be
water-in-oil, above it they will be oil-in-
water.
b) The incorporation of the beeswax that is
saponified.
c) The constituents of the cream which will
affect the HLB requirement.
a) The temperature.
 Phase Inversion of emulsion:
(conversion of w/o into o/w)
• Phase inversion may occur during processing.
• Also phase inversion may occur on the skin after
application when the emulsion is spread onto the skin
surface and the water begin to evaporate.
• Non-ionic emulsifiers can be used to supplement
beeswax-borax emulsions, adding increased flexibility
and stability to the emulsion. The most popular co-
emulsifiers are sorbitan fatty acid esters.
• Moving away from beeswax-borax as the primary
emulsifier system, these same nonionic emulsifiers can
be used on their own, although beeswax itself is
sometimes retained.
• The formula (1) is W/O emulsion, whereas (2) is O/W.

R/ (1) (2)
Percent Percent
• Beeswax 10.00 10.00
• Mineral oil 50.00 20.00
• Lanolin 3.10 3.00
• Borax 0.70 0.70
• Hydrogenated V.O. - 25.00
• Antioxidant 1.00 0.50
• Sorbitan sesquioleate - -
• Sorbitan stearate - 5.00
• Polysorbate 60 35.2 2.00
• Water q.s. 33.8
• Perfume, preservative q.s. q.s.
• Lighter creams of the oil-in-water type with a
medium oil content can function as cleansing
creams—indeed they are preferred by the
consumer in some sections of the market.

• Many successful products have been built

around conventional triethanolamine stearate
emulsifier systems or self-emulsifying glyceryl
stearate.
• Since the discovery that the pH of skin is acidic
and that buffered acidic cleansing creams allow
a more rapid return to normal skin pH than
their more alkaline counterparts.
• There are fewer emulsifiers available for acidic
formulations, the most popular being glyceryl
stearates, cetyl or stearyl alcohols, phosphated
fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol sulphates.
 2-Night and Massage Creams
• They are creams designed to be left on the skin
for several hours during night.
• Therefore, they must be composed with an oil
phase that will spread easily without
disappearing, but also without rubbing off
onto clothing or bed linen.
• Such creams tend to be high-oil-content, water-
in-oil, soft solid or viscous liquid creams.
‘Massage‟ :
The vigorous rubbing of the skin helps
prevent the build up of excessive numbers of
dead surface cells and keeps epidermal blood
supply in good condition. This has valuable
role in skin caring.
• The benefits to be expected from the use of night or
„overnight creams‟ :
1. Provide an occlusive layer for skin surface, which slows
the rate of trans -epidermal water loss and thus have
‘moisturizing’ effect .
2. UV-filtering effect.
3. Nutritive (hormones, so change from cosmetic to
pharmaceutical product).
 THANK YOU
For any questions feel free
to contact me by mail
Osama.sayed@su.edu.
eg
Ass. Prof. Ossama Sayed
Ass. Prof. of Pharmaceutics