Albert the Scientist

© IlDikko

IlDikko patterns are All rights reserved.

You may sell any item made personally by you according to my pattern.
Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have
their own copy of the pattern. Items for sale must state in the item
description that they are designed by IlDikko and also include a link to
my website (www.ildikko-crochet.com).

If you have questions about this pattern, please feel free to contact me!

Thanks and enjoy!

E-Mail: ildiko.struening@gmail.com
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Materials
• Yarn/wool: I have used Catania yarn from Schachenmayr in beige (0263 – 50g),
white (0106 < 50g), grey (0242 < 50g), red (0115 < 50g), light brown (0383 < 50g),
brown (0157 < 50g), black (0110 < 50g), pink (0246 < 50g) and Brazilia yarn from
Schachenmayr in white (00001 < 50g) for the moustache.
• 20 g of merino wool in white color for felting the hair
• Crochet hook: 3.0 mm
• Tapestry needle
• Filling
• Scissors
• Two 8 mm black safety eyes
• Approx. 310 cm of single core copper PVC-coated electrical wire (diameter: 2,5mm)
• Approx. 90 cm of thin wire (diameter: 1,5 mm) to be used for fingers and blackboard
• Rubber tape (electrician’s tape) 1,5 cm wide to secure wire ends
• Pliers for cutting wire

Abbreviations
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
slst - slip stitch
inc - increase (2 sc in next st)
dec - decrease (2 sc worked off together)
fpsc - front post single crochet
(nr) - indicates the total number of stitches in the current row/round
() 2-times - repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis twice
() 3-times - repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis 3-times
FO - fasten off

Important Notes
• All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral (except Albert’s eyelids, blackboard and
parts of his shirt and shoes). Do not join or turn, unless instructed otherwise
• Using invisible decrease instead of decrease makes the final result nicer
• You may find it useful to use a stitchmarker for counting your rounds
• Take your time to create your Amigurumi’s face, it is a very important part of the
final result
• While stuffing and making the wire frame take care to give each part a nice shape
• You may want to use thinner wire for fingers and blackboard as it can be bent easier

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Size of finished figure
Using the above metioned yarn and hook Albert the scientist will be 36 cm tall.

Realization
Nose

With beige yarn:

Round 1. ch 9 (9)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 6 sc (= sc in the next 6 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 6 sc (= sc in next 6 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (18)
Round 3. inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc (24)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 6 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 6 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (30)
Round 5. – Round 7. sc* (30)
Round 8. (sc, dec), 6 sc, (sc, dec) 3-times, 6 sc, (sc, dec) 2-times (24)
Round 9. dec, 6 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec (18)

slst in next stitch. FO.

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Head

With beige yarn:

Round 1. ch 12 (12)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 9 sc (= sc in the next 9 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 9 sc (= sc in next 9 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (24)
Round 3. inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc (30)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 9 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 5. sc* (36)
Round 6. (2 sc, inc), 9 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 7. sc* (42)
Round 8. (3 sc, inc), 9 sc, (3 sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (3 sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 9. – Round 10. sc* (48)
Round 11. 9 sc, ch2, skip 1, 38 sc (49)

The main body skeleton wire will go through the hole just created.

Round 12. 9 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 38 sc (48)
Round 13. sc* (48)
Round 14. 3 sc, dec, 9 sc, (3 sc, dec) 3-times, 9 sc, (3 sc, dec) 2-times (42)
Round 15. 2 sc, dec, 9 sc, (2 sc, dec) 3-times, 9 sc, (2 sc, dec) 2-times (36)

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In next round nose and head will be crocheted together. Stuff the nose. The starting point
will be the last stitch before the finishing stitch of the nose (see pictures below).

Round 16. 22 sc, insert hook through nose and head stitches as you see on the
pictures above: 9 sc, work again on the head stitches: 5 sc (36)
Round 17. 22 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the nose, see
pictures below: 9 sc, work again on the head stitches: 5 sc (36)

Round 18. – Round 30. sc* (36)

Round 31. (4 sc, dec)* (30)

In the next step the main head and body skeleton will be created:
In my case the wire for head and body was approximately 140 cm long. Keep the size of the
hook and the gauge of the yarn you are using in mind. You may want to leave the wire rather
a bit longer. Adjust it to the final length, when the size of the body is evident.

Make a loop at the middle of the wire. This loop should fit exactly into the head. Secure the
loop with the rubber tape. Insert the wire loop into the head as you see on the pictures
below. Start stuffing the head (stuff nicely around the wire) and keep on stuffing while
crocheting. Take care to give it a nice shape!

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Round 32. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 33. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 34. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 35. dec* (6)

FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the head.

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Eyes

Eyeballs with white yarn (make 2):

Round 1. ch 4 (4)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other
side of beginning ch: sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into
this ch) (8)
Round 3. inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 4. – Round 5. sc* (14)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Eyelids with beige yarn (make 2):

Eyelids are crocheted in rows.

Row 1. ch11 (11)

Row 2. starting at second ch from hook: 10 sc, ch1, turn (10)
Row 3. 10 sc, ch1, turn (10)
Row 4. skip 1, sc, (2 sc, dec) 2-times, turn (7)
Row 5. 3 dec, slst, DO NOT TURN! (4)

slst around. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

Insert the black safety eyes into the eyeball (see pictures above). Sew the eyes with invisible
stitches to the head. For the exact place see the pictures below. Stuff the eyes softly with a
small amount of filling while sewing. Sew the eyelids onto the eyeballs.

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Moustache

With white Brazilia yarn:

The moustache is crocheted in rows.
Row 1. ch 15 (15)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 14 sc, ch1, turn (14)
Row 3. sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, sc, ch1, turn (12)
Row 4. sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc (10)

FO; leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the face. See the pictures for
the exact place.

Comb the moustache, as you see on the pictures above.

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Ears

With beige yarn (make 2):

Round 1. ch 4 (4)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other
side of beginning ch: sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into
this ch) (8)
Round 3. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 4. (sc, inc) 4-times, slst (13)

FO; leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the head. See the pictures for
the exact place.

Hair
The hair is created from merino wool.

Separate the merino wool into strands. Use a thinner embroidery thread to sew the tresses
midway to the head in order to create two strands of the same length. Start the work at the
middle line and cover the head with hair systematically step by step.

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Cut Albert’s hair as you see on the pictures above.

Facial Embroidery
Embroider the eyelines and eye wrinkles with grey yarn. For exact place and position see
the pictures below.

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Body

With grey yarn:

Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (= sc in the next 3 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (= sc in next 3 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Round 5. sc, ch 2, skip 1, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc), ch 2, skip 1, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc), 3 sc,
(2 sc, inc) 2-times (32)
The wire for the legs will later go through the holes just created.

Round 6. sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, sc, inc, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc),
sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc), 3 sc,
(3 sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 7. (4 sc, inc), 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 8. (5 sc, inc), 3 sc, (5 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (5 sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 9. – Round 11. sc* (48)

With red yarn:

Round 12. (6 sc, inc), 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) 2-times (54)
Round 13. in back loops: sc* (54)
Round 14. – Round 20. sc* (54)
Round 21. (7 sc, dec)* (48)
Round 22. (6 sc, dec)* (42)
Round 23. (5 sc, dec)* (36)

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Round 24. – Round 26. sc* (36)
Round 27. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
Round 28. – Round 30. sc* (30)
Start stuffing the body. Keep on stuffing as you go on.
Round 31. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 32. – Round 36. sc* (24)
Round 37. 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 9 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 10 sc (26)
The wire for the arms will later go through the holes just created.

Round 38. 3 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 9 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 10 sc (24)
Round 39. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 40. in back loops: (sc, dec)* (12)

With beige yarn:

Round 41. (sc, dec)* (8)
Round 42. – Round 46. sc* (8)
Round 47. (sc, inc)* (12)

slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.

The waist of the pullover is crocheted into the front loops of Round 13.
With red yarn:
Round 1. ch1, 54 sc, JOIN (54)
Round 2. – Round 3. ch1, (sc, fpsc) 27-times, JOIN (54)
FO. Hide the yarn tail in the body.

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The neck of the pullover is crocheted into the front loops of Round 40.

With red yarn:

Round 1. ch1, (sc, dec) 4-times, JOIN (8)
Round 2. ch1, (sc, fpsc) 4-times, JOIN (8)
FO. Hide the yarn tail in the body.

With white yarn:

Collar is crocheted in rows.

Row 1. ch 12 (12)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 11 sc, ch1, turn (11)
Row 3. in back loops: 2 hdc, 7 sc, 2 hdc, ch2, turn (11)
Row 4. dc, hdc, 7 sc, hdc, dc, ch1, turn (11)

slst around the collar. FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the shirt.
See pictures above.

Take the head and insert the wire into the body as you see on the picture above. Lead the
legs’ wires through the holes created in Round 5. Take care, that the head looks straight
forward. Sew the body with invisible stitches to the head.

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Legs

With grey yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (do not close the hole and leave a long
yarn tail for sewing it to the body – see pictures) (8)
Round 2. – Round 11. sc* (8)
Round 12. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 13. – Round 14. sc* (12)
Round 15. 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Round 16. – Round 22. sc* (8)
Round 23. (sc, inc)* (12)
Round 24. sc* (12)
Round 25. (3 sc, inc)* (15)
Round 26. sc* (15)
Round 27. (4 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 28. sc* (18)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the foot. Insert the legs’ wires
into the legs. See pictures below.

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Shoes

Round 1. ch 8 (8)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 5 sc (= sc in the next 5 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 5 sc (= sc in next 5 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (16)
Round 3. sc* (16)
Round 4. (7 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 5. – Round 7. sc* (18)
Round 8. (8 sc, inc)* (20)
Round 9. sc* (20)
Round 10. (9 sc, inc)* (22)
Round 11. sc* (22)
Round 12. (10 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 13. – Round 18. sc* (24)
Round 19. sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 2-times, 12 sc (27)
Round 20. – Round 26. sc* (27)
Create the foot loop at the end of the leg’s wire, as you see on the picture below. It should
fit nicely into the shoe. Secure the loop with rubber tape. Put the shoe onto the wire frame.

Round 27. 9 sc, ch 2 (this opening has to surround the leg’s wire, see pictures),
skip 1 stitch, 17 sc (28)
Stuff the shoe nicely around the wire. Keep on stuffing as you go on.
Round 28. 9 sc, sc in the ch 2 loop from last round, 17 sc (27)
Round 29. sc* (27)
Round 30. (7 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 31. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
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Round 32. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 33. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the shoe.

Sew the leg with invisible stitches to the shoe using the yarn tail left on the leg.
Sole with dark brown yarn (make 2):
The sole is crocheted in rows.

Row 1. ch 8 (8)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 7 sc, ch1, turn (7)
Row 3. 7 sc, ch1, turn (7)
Row 4. sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, ch1, turn (9)
Row 5. – Row 7. 9 sc, ch1, turn (9)
Row 8. sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc, ch1, turn (11)
Row 9. – Row 25. 11 sc, ch1, turn (11)
Row 26. sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, sc, ch1, turn (9)
Row 27. sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc, ch1, turn (7)
Row 28. sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, ch1, turn (5)
Row 29. dec, sc, dec, DO NOT TURN! (3)
63 sc along the next 3 edges of the sole. Work into the back loops: 63 sc all around. slst in
next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the shoe. For exact
place and position see pictures below.

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Arms

Cut a piece of wire for the arms. In my case the wire was approx. 80 cm long. You may
want to leave it a little longer as the exact size can be adjusted later. Insert the wire into
the body through the two holes created in Round 37, as you see on the picture above.

Arms with red yarn (make 2):

Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (do not pull it tight, but leave a long
yarn tail for sewing it to the body) (8)
Round 2. – Round 19. sc* (8)
Round 20. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 21. – Round 22. sc* (12)
Stuff the elbow softly.
Round 23. 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Round 24. – Round 35. sc* (8)
With white yarn:
Round 36. (sc, inc)* (12)

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With beige yarn:

Round 37. in back loops: sc* (12)

Round 38. (3 sc, inc)* (15)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the hand.
The cuff is crocheted in rows with white yarn (make 2):

Row 1. in front loops of Round 39: 12 sc, ch4, turn (12)

Row 2. nd
starting from the 2 ch from hook in chain stitches: 3 sc, 12 sc, ch1, turn (15)
Row 3. 15 sc (15)
FO. Weave the yarn tail into the arm.
Insert the arms’ wire into the arms. Insert it carefully, so that the elbow stuffing remains in
its place. Sew the arms with invisible stitches to the body. Hide the yarn tail in the body.

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Hands
Hands with beige yarn (make 2):

Make the 4 fingers/thumb for a hand as follows:

Round 1. 5 sc in double adjustable ring (5)
Round 2. - Round 7. sc* (5)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends on the first 3 fingers. Do not fasten off on the fourth
finger. Now put aside one finger and continue working on the one not fastened off.

Round 8. Right hand: sc in next 2 st of the first finger, sc in next 2 st of the

second finger, sc in all 5 st of the third finger, sc in next 3 st of the
second finger, sc in the last 3 remaining st of the first finger
Left hand: sc in next 3 st of the first finger, sc in next 3 st of the
second finger, sc in all 5 st of the third finger, sc in next 2 st of the
second finger, sc in the last 2 remaining st of the first finger (15)
Round 9. – Round 10. sc* (15)

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In next round crochet the thumb with 2 sc to the hand as well:
Round 11. Right hand: 5 sc, take the thumb and align it with the hand, insert
hook through the thumb and hand stitches, as you see on the pictures
above: 2 sc, work into the hand stitches again: 8 sc
Left hand: 9 sc, take the thumb and align it with the hand, insert
hook through the thumb and hand stitches, as you see on the pictures
above: 2 sc, crochet in hand stitches again: 4 sc (15)
Round 12. Right hand: 5 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the
thumb, see pictures above: 3 sc, work in hand stitches again: 8 sc
Left hand: 9 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the
thumb, see pictures above: 3 sc, work in hand stitches again: 4 sc (16)
Round 13. (dec, 6 sc)* (14)
Round 14. sc* (14)

FO. Adjust the length of the arm’s wire. It is supposed to lead into the pointer finger. Make
a loop at the end and flatten it. Make it fit into the finger. Cut small pieces of wire (it might
be thinner wire, than the rest of the body skeleton) in order to form the hand’s skeleton.
Secure them with rubber tape to the arm’s wire. See pictures for exact form and position.

Insert the hand’s wire into the hand. Sew the arm to the hand above the last round of the
hand. Hide the yarn tail in the hand. Embroider buttons on the cuff with anthracite yarn.

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Tongue

Tongue is crocheted in Rows.

With pink yarn:
Round 1. ch 7 (7)
nd
Round 2. starting from the 2 ch from hook: 3 hdc, 2 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue
on the other side of beginning ch: 2 sc, 3 hdc, (13)

FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it under the moustache. Optionally you can use a small
pin to fix it under the moustache. This way you can remove it any time you like.

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Blackboard

The blackboard is crocheted in rows with black yarn:

Row 1. ch 21 (21)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 20 sc, ch1, turn (20)
Row 3. – Row 30. 20 sc, ch1, turn (20)
Row 31. 20 sc (20)
FO.
Start to create the wire frame at this point:
Cut a piece of thinner wire. In my case it was approximately 40 cm long. Make a square
frame from the wire. It should fit exactly around the blackboard. Secure it with the rubber
tape.
Sc around with light brown yarn enclosing the wire frame, as you see on the pictures below.

Embroider the blackboard with white yarn:

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Pointer Stick
Cut a 17 cm long piece of the thinner wire. Wrap the stick around with light brown yarn.
Put instant glue step by step to the wire before wrapping with the yarn, as you see on the
pictures below.

Blackboard Stand
Cut a 17 cm long piece of the thicker wire. Form the 3 legs stand, as you see on the
pictures below. Put instant glue step by step to the wire before wrapping with the yarn.
Attach the blackboard to the stand.

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CONGRATULATIONS! Albert the Scientist is ready ☺!!!

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