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Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture: A Narrative Inquiry into the

Experiences of Naisud National High School Students in Ukay-ukay

as Sustainable Fashion

Background of the Study

A well-known television commercial previously featured a

woman jokingly about her newly acquired garments, that they were

from the U.K., the UKay-UKay. The word "ukay" is derived from the

word "halukay," which means "to dig up" (Locsin, 2007). Shopping

is done by digging up among mounds of clothes until an excellent

search is found. An "ukay" is then a find or the item purchased.

For example, vast mounds of discarded clothing line the streets

of Baguio, and consumers enthusiastically dig through or do the

halukay in quest of the ideal okay.

Some Filipinos shop at ukay-ukay because it allows them to

be trendy and up-to-date with fashion and "own" trademark

products without breaking their pockets. They "pretend to have

bought these items from designer houses" (Locsin, 2007). As a

result, some people make up stories like having "a mother, an

aunt, a sibling, or a cousin living abroad, who chanced upon the

goods in a bargain" (Locsin, 2007, p. 378).

When one visits ukay-ukay businesses and markets, one cannot

help but ask if ukay-ukay is a sustainable fashion trend. One


reason patrons love the ukay-ukay is that the items sold are

original and unique; they complement the buyer’s style. Ukays

encourage experimentation and mix and matching of pieces that

allow one to reinvent his or her style repeatedly. Consequently,

one can also upgrade, redesign, or upcycle ukays. Upcycling is a

way to update secondhand finds while upholding self-expression

(Pascual, 2018). 

Technically, most ukay-ukay clothing is recycled clothing

(except for those with tags). If these items were not resold,

they would be discarded. People benefit from other people's

garbage. Being recycled is said to be essential for eco-fashion.

When someone buys from the ukay-ukay, they wait to utilize or

wear the products. It is generally known that secondhand garments

should be disinfected before wearing them, either by soaking them

in boiling water with soapy soap or by dry cleaning (with

chemicals).
Statement of the Problem

The general objective of this study is to inquire whether high-

school students foresee Ukay-Ukay as sustainable fashion.

Specifically, this study attempted to answer the following

questions:

1. What are the benefits of ukay-ukay clothing?

2. What is thrift fashion, and why is it essential for the

fashion economy?

3. Why is thrifting important for the sustainable fashion

economy?
Conceptual Framework 

Based on the concepts, which are the main variables in the

study as the subject of narrative inquiry, it is set with the

observation or data interpreted, thus serving as a guide in

conducting the research. 

Independent Dependent

Naisud National High School


Sustainable Fashion
students considers Ukay-ukay
Finds as Fashion
Definition of Terms

Thrifted - to shop for or buy used goods, especially at a store

that specializes in secondhand merchandise.

Consumer - a person who buys goods and services.

Sustainable fashion - the practice of sustainable fashion entails

using eco-friendly/recyclable fibres, giving proper wages to

their workers, ensuring the quality and durability of their

products and being environmentally and socially responsible with

their production. 

Ukay-ukay - is used for shopping by digging up piles of used or

pre-loved clothes until one makes a good find. It also refers to

retailers of secondhand clothes and accessories in the

Philippines.
Scope and Delimitation 

This study focuses on the inquiry into the experiences of

high-school students with ukay-ukay as a sustainable fashion.

This study focuses on Grade 11 - Dressmaking students.

The concern of this study is primarily the inquiry into the

experiences of Naisud National high-school students who foresee

the ukay-ukay as a sustainable fashion.

Hypothesis

Customers from Ukay may be regarded as odd. They buy objects

as long as they are inexpensive or look unique but are still

valuable treasures. People buy anything from baby items to

sportswear to "used" undergarments in Tagaytay's Olivarez Plaza.

Unfortunately, research by Valdez et al. (2014) indicated that

clients had various shopping concerns. The phrase "much effort

required in searching for ukay-ukay goods" tops the list. Other

issues identified include product damage and defect, obnoxious

odour, excessive time spent, and limited space in the shopping

area (Valdez et al., 2014).

Although it is given that keys are not necessarily recycled

clothes, they are reused products without the need to undergo

various processes that may have harmful environmental effects.


Most days are not designed with recycling potential, but they

have lengthened clothing life cycles because, rather than being a

part of textile waste after the first use, they become part of

the retail trade after discarding. What happens to secondhand

clothing when owners want to throw them away? Interestingly,

these items can be resold again for third lives.


Significance of the Study

The results of the study will be of great benefit to the

following:

Students. In this study, students will be taught about thrifting

and knowing that ukay-ukay finds can be sustainable.

Teachers. This study can be a way to get ukay-ukay finds as a

potential fashion alternative for luxury goods. 

Parents. This study will help parents, especially those who

mostly choose ukay-ukay to save money and run a business.

Future Researchers. The findings obtained in this study can serve

as other means of information, data, and background for the

researchers.
Review of Related Literature

Expression and Meaning

One reason patrons love the ukay-ukay is that the items sold

are original and unique; they complement the buyer’s style. Ukays

encourage experimentation and mix and matching of pieces that

allow one to reinvent his or her style repeatedly. Consequently,

one can also upgrade, redesign, or upcycle ukays. Upcycling is a

way to update secondhand finds while upholding self-expression

(Pascual, 2018). Besides the Denuo brand, other more creative

entrepreneurs have also gone into the up-cycling business. Likha

is a Cebu-based collection created by one of the grand champions

of the Green Fashion Revolution design contest, composed of

redesigned keys made more stylish and trendy (Gocotano, 2018).

The cultural sustainability of the ukay also lies in its

appeal to various diverse groups. For example, Cordillera women

use “local-to-global practices of consumption and trade... in the

contingent and compromised space between market demand and the

cultural intimacy and expectations of family, community, and

customary practice” (Milgram, 2004, p. 199). Redesigning and


manipulating goods, either by consumers or designers, is a way to

express themselves and send messages. Mixing and matching pre-

loved branded clothes from the West with local garments is a way

to demonstrate Filipinos’ “agency and ability to expropriate, as

well as to appropriate” (Milgram, 2004, p.199).

The ukay-ukay is also an excellent source of ideas and

material for arts and crafts. In 2018, an “‘Ukay- ukay’ protest

installation at ManilART 2018” (2018) exhibit using ceramics

“scavenged from ukay/thrift/ garage sale/surplus stores” (par.

2).

Kay's cultural viability is partly based on its

attractiveness to many people. Cordillera women, for example,

engage in "local-to-global consumption and commerce... "in the

contested space between market demand and cultural intimacy and

expectations of family, community, and customary practice"

(Milgram, 2004, p. 199). Redesigning and modifying items is a

means for consumers and designers to express themselves and

communicate messages. Combining pre-loved branded clothes from

the West with native outfits demonstrates Filipinos' "agency and

ability to expropriate, as well as appropriate" (Milgram, 2004,

p.199).

Famous ukay-ukay queen Shaira Luna has an actual closet sale

wherein she resells her ukay finds. Selling her pre-loved (raised
to the power of two) clothes is a way to “recycle, reuse, and

rotate items when we can” (Sison, 2017, par. 2).

Besides reusing and recycling, refashioning is another way

to manage waste in the clothing trade. Refashioning is “defined

as remaking used clothes into new ones,” and it “is gaining

attention because it is a higher form of reusing which focuses on

value-added recovery” (Sugiura, 2019, p. 1). In Kyoto, Japan, for

example, kimonos were re-dyed from the 1920s to the 1960s to

reuse and refashion clothing proactively (Sugiura, 2019). In the

Philippines, Denuo, an online brand founded by Monica Vivar,

upcycles ukay-ukay items. Termed “reclaimed clothing,” the

fashion collection is composed of garments about to be disposed

of and are “recirculated into the retail cycle” (Sison, 2018).

Duration and utilization of clothing

According to the findings of Guilitan's (2009)

investigation, there is often little understanding about a

consumer's thought process while changing durable items. The fact

remains, however, that overall aesthetic and fashionable appeal

is a factor in purchasing both utilitarian and value-expressive

goods, while speculation suggests that the replacement of these

goods is driven by the desire for social acceptance.

Because of the poor general quality of fast fashion clothes,

buyers utilize it substantially less than slow fashion consumers.


Because these are "fast-fashion," which means they appeal to

short-term fads, they tend to fall out of style just as quickly

as they came in, reducing their likelihood of being used. Slow

fashion consumers, of course, dispose of their clothing less

because of superior construction quality and styles that can be

worn throughout the seasons (Watson & Yan, 2013). Chau (2012)

reiterated this point, emphasizing that "fast-fashion creates a

wasteful culture." It was stated because this style of apparel is

constructed of inferior materials. It is natural for purchasers

to reject their items after a few wears. However, in other cases,

consumers do not even receive a second wear since the garment

comes apart after just one wearing.

Sustainable Fashion and the


Filipino college student’s
wardrobe | 4
Fast fashion consumers use
their clothing significantly less
than slow fashion
consumers because of the
clothing’s poor overall quality.
Due to the fact that these are
“fast-fashion” which means
they cater to snap trends, they
tend to go out of style just as
fast they
went in style, thus, lessening
their chances of being utilized.
Slow fashion consumers, of
course,
dispose of their clothing less
because of superior construction
quality and styles that can
traverse
through seasons (Watson &
Yan, 2013)
This point was restated by Chau
(2012), emphasizing that
“fast-fashion creates a
wasteful culture”

. It was said that because this
type of clothing is made of
substandard materials.
It is a natural occurrence that
after a couple of wears, the
buyers would discard their
clothing. In
some incidences, however, the
buyers do not even get a second
usage because the clothing falls
apart after one wearing
References

Bania, H. T. (2020). The Philippine Ukay-Ukay Culture as

Sustainable Fashion. dlsu.edu.ph. Retrieved May 20, 2023,

from https://www.dlsu.edu.ph/wpcontent/uploads/2020/09/12Bia

na-revised.pdf

Definition of thrift. (2023). In Merriam-Webster Dictionary.

https://www.merriamwebster.com/dictionary/

thrift#:~:text=thrifted%3B%20thrifting%3B%20thrifts,that

%20specializes%20in%20secondhand%20merchandise

Miranda, B. L. (2016, March). Sustainable Fashion and the

Filipino college student’s wardrobe With the guidance of Ms.

Negado -Research II. researchgate.net. Retrieved May 23,

2023,

from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/350306357_Sust

ainable_Fashion_and_the_Filipino_college_student

%27s_wardrobe_With_the_guidance_of_Ms_Negado_-Research_II

Sison, S. (2017, October 4). Get ready for Shaira Luna’s annual

closet sale. Preview Magazine. Retrieved from

https://www.preview.ph/fashion/shaira-luna-annualcloset-

sale-a00191-20171004?reg=feed_1

Sison, S. (2018, February 28). This 27-year-old Filipina will

change your perception on ukay clothes. Preview Magazine.

Retrieved from https://www.preview.ph/ fashion/preview-

crush-denuo-monica-vivar-a00191-20180228?ref=article_related

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