Hill Drew - Crochet Magical Creatures - 2022

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Paperback ISBN: 978-1-63807-806-7

eBook ISBN: 978-1-63807-258-4
Manufactured in the United States of America
Interior and Cover Designer: Jennifer Hsu

Art Producer: Loren Susvilla
Editor: Georgia Freedman
Production Editor: Ashley Polikoff
Photography © 2022 Evi Abeler

Illustrations © Remie Geoffroi; pp. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
For Bunker, Blueberry, Benny, and
Billy: the magical creatures in my life,
both past and present.

Contents
Introduction
P t One: THE MAGICAL WORLD OF AMIGURUMI

P t Two: CREATING CROCHET MAGIC
DAVINA THE
Dragon
COSMO THE
Ca corn
LEONARD THE
Dandy-Lion
PIPPIN THE
Jackalope
TOSHIKO THE
K sune
ZINNIA THE
G den Fa y
GUS THE
Enchanted Mushroom
BASIL THE
ying Pig
QUENTIN THE
Gnome
ARGOS THE
Cyclops
BARNABAS THE
Ogre
TIBERIUS THE
Ye
KONRAD THE
Kraken
NESSIE THE
Loch Ness Monst
MARINA THE
M maid
SERENA THE
Hippocampus
MOIRA THE
Pegacorn
PERCIVAL THE
Griffin
JOAQUIN THE
Phoen
GALE AND IRIS THE
Cloud Spr es
Resources
Glossary
Acknowledgments
About the Author

INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the world of magical
amig umi!
There are few words in my vocabulary more magical than
“amigurumi.” This Japanese term combines the words for “crochet”
and “stuffed toys,” and what’s more magical than taking a hook
and some yarn and conjuring up a fantastical creature? Any
wizard will tell you that the simplest spells are often the most
effective, and the same holds true for amigurumi; the patterns do
not need to be complicated for the creatures to be fun to make
and totally adorable to look at and cuddle.
I was first enchanted by amigurumi in 2007, when I found a
pattern for a small crochet manatee, and I quickly became
fascinated with how a crafter can take basic geometric shapes,
like circles and triangles, and combine them to make charming
stuffed toys. I started making simple animals and worked my way
up to re-creating characters and creatures from my favorite
books. I was relieved to discover that the techniques used to
make amigurumi are not so advanced as to require years of study
to master. With just a few basic stitches and a little bit of stuffing,
you can make any creature you like—the only limit is your
imagination! This rings especially true for making magical
creatures, which you can customize to suit your fancy. These little
friends make incredible gifts for fantasy lovers of all ages. Be
warned, though, you may need to make multiples so you can keep
one for yourself!
This book will aid you on your quest to make these creatures
by arming you with all the tools and knowledge you’ll need to
conquer the world of magical amigurumi, whether this is your first
time making amigurumi or the first time in a while that you’ve
conjured a crocheted item. Part 1 includes a refresher on the
basic crochet stitches and techniques you’ll need, and it also gives
you tips on how to pick the right materials and tools. Part 2
contains step-by-step patterns for 20 magical creatures that are
just waiting for you to bring them to life. Grab your wand hook and
get ready to make a little magic!
PART ONE
e Magical World of
Amig umi
In this part, we will go over how to choose the right
supplies for your project and how to read a pattern,
as well as the basic stitches and techniques you will
need to create magical amigurumi. Amigurumi are
typically constructed by crocheting several separate
pieces that are then filled with stuffing and sewn
together. Most of the pieces are crocheted in the
round and given shape by increasing or decreasing
the number of stitches per round. We will also cover
how to put the finishing touches on your creatures, as
well as how to care for them, so they’ll last for years to
come.
Amazing Amig umi
Crochet is an incredibly versatile craft, which means there is no
limit to the wonderful amigurumi you can make with it. You can
combine different shapes and stitches to create a variety of
creatures, from the simply adorable to the fabulously beautiful.
Even traditionally scary monsters will warm your heart when
they’re made out of yarn. Although a blank canvas of possibility
might seem intimidating, amigurumi do not have to be overly
complex to be incredible.
The patterns in this book are designed specifically to be easy
and customizable. Once you’ve made a few of these designs, you’ll
notice that a lot of elements repeat themselves, and that many of
these creatures have the same head and body shapes. Accent
pieces like the tail fins of a mermaid might appear in a different
color as the ears of an ogre. This repetition will make it easier for
you to craft a wide variety of creatures and will also give you the
freedom to personalize them. If you think the dragon would look
cuter without horns, leave them off. If you think the mermaid could
use a pair of wings, add them. Once you’ve learned the simple
skills presented in this book, you get to make the rules.
Create an Easy Crochet Tool K

A witch’s pantry is packed with countless strange ingredients and
magical artifacts to aid her in spellcasting. Similarly, crocheters
can collect and use many wonderful gadgets. But the truth is that
you don’t actually need much to get started. Here, we’ll cover the
basic supplies you’ll need to craft adorable amigurumi.
GETTING HOOKED
Your hook is the most important tool in your crochet kit, and it’s
essential to find the one that will work best for you. In many ways,
picking a hook is like selecting a magic wand: You need to
consider the material it’s made from, its size and shape, and the
way it feels in your hand. The size of the hook you use will depend
on the type of yarn you select for your project; the rest is based
on your personal preference.
Most crafters begin with a simple aluminum hook, and many
still swear by them after years of crocheting. They are easily the
most affordable and readily available option and are found in
many craft supply stores. The two most widely known brands of
aluminum hooks are Susan Bates and Boye. Both brands are
incredibly comfortable to use, and the main difference between
them is the point (the very tip of the hook, which gets inserted
into the stitch) and the throat (the space directly below the hook).
Susan Bates hooks have a pointier point and an inline throat,
which can be great for beginners as it really helps “grab” the yarn. I
have found that when working with certain types of yarn, however,
these hooks can accidentally split the fibers, which might lead to
some non-magical cursing. Boye hooks have a much rounder point
and a tapered throat, which I find slides through the yarn much
more easily—like a phoenix feather through butter.
Hooks come in a variety of materials other than aluminum:
bamboo, stainless steel, and plastic, to name just a few. Choose
whichever type feels right in your hand. I tried using a plastic hook
once, but unfortunately, I was hexed with the hands of an ogre
and I quickly snapped it. My personal favorite hook is a Clover
Amour hook, which is an aluminum hook with an ergonomic handle
(my ogre hands need the extra grip). I also have a small collection
of beautiful hand-carved wooden hooks, but these can be quite
expensive. I recommend sticking to the more cost-friendly
options until you know exactly what you’re looking for in a hook.
Most hooks are labeled with both US and metric sizes, but just
in case you find a hook with only one size listed, here is a helpful
chart of hook sizes:
CROCHET HOOK SIZE
Metric US
2.25 mm B-1
2.75 mm C-2
3.25 mm D-3
3.50 mm E-4
3.75 mm F-5
4.00 mm G-6
4.50 mm 7
5.00 mm H-8
5.50 mm I-9
6.00 mm J-10
6.50 mm K-10.5
8.00 mm L-11
9.00 mm M-13
10.00 mm N-15
12.00 mm P-16
SPINNING A YARN
Choosing the perfect yarn for your project is one of the most fun
parts of the crochet process, second only to seeing your finished
creature. Yarn comes in such a wide variety of colors, textures,
materials, and sizes and each type of yarn has its advantages and
disadvantages when making amigurumi. Here, we’ll cover the
basics of the different types of yarn and how to choose the right
one for your project.
There are three main types of yarn: animal fiber, plant fiber, and
synthetic fiber. Animal fiber includes sheep’s wool, alpaca, angora,
and any fiber that was once attached to or made by a live
creature. Animal fiber can be an absolute dream to work with, but
it does come with a set of challenges that should be taken into
consideration. Some people, for instance, suffer from allergies to
animal fibers, whereas others abstain from using any animal
products for personal reasons. Animal fibers also have very
specific care instructions, making them less than ideal for
amigurumi, which receive a lot of handling and tend to require
more frequent and specialized cleaning. Animal fibers are also
typically the most expensive option.
Plant fibers include cotton, hemp, and any fiber that once grew
from the earth. (I even have some yarn made from banana fiber.)
Plant fiber is an excellent alternative to animal fiber and can be
just as luxurious. Many crafters I know do the majority of their
work in cotton yarn, and the results are breathtaking. However, I
have found that as time goes on, most amigurumi made with plant
fibers tend to lose their figures a bit.
Finally, we have synthetic fibers, such as acrylic and polyester.
These are yarns made from plastic and other synthetic materials.
By far the most economical option, synthetic yarns are also my
favorite for making amigurumi. Most synthetic fibers are easy to
care for, hypoallergenic, and keep their shape for far longer than
other fibers. Because amigurumi are meant to be handled, played
with, and loved, they need to be strong, flexible, and easy to clean
—like synthetic fibers.
The other thing to consider is a yarn’s “weight,” or thickness.
Yarn comes in different sizes or weights, starting with size 0 lace
weight and going all the way up to size 7 jumbo weight. The weight
of your yarn will determine the final size of your amigurumi (see
Gauging Giants & Borrowers: Sizing Your Amigurumi). I made all
the creatures in this book using 100 percent acrylic yarn in size 4
worsted weight (except for the jumbo Kraken, which was made
using 100 percent polyester yarn in size 6 super bulky weight), but
they can easily be made from another yarn of your choosing.
Although some crochet projects can eat up a lot of yarn, the

patterns in this book do not. Each project requires less than a full
skein of each color listed. I purchased one skein of each yarn, used
the same skein for multiple creatures, and had plenty of yarn left
over.
ACCESSORIES
In addition to your hook, there are a few other tools you’ll need
when creating your amigurumi.
Scissors: You’ll need a good pair of scissors for trimming yarn

ends. Find a pair that fits your hands comfortably.
Tapestry needle: A tapestry or darning needle is slightly larger

than an embroidery needle and has a blunt tip and oversized eye.
You’ll use this for sewing the pieces of your amigurumi together
and for weaving in loose yarn ends. The needles come in plastic
and metal and can be straight or have a curved tip.
Stitch markers: Removable stitch markers are one of the best

ways to keep track of where your round begins and ends, and
they also allow you to mark the placement of key elements, such
as eyes. You can buy adorable, fancy stitch markers, or you can
use bobby pins or even a scrap of yarn in a contrasting color.
Safety eyes: Safety eyes are small plastic eyes that come in two
pieces: a round eye with a threaded peg and a plastic washer. The
peg is inserted between stitches on the amigurumi and then
through the washer, which holds it in place. Eyes come in a
wonderful variety of sizes and colors. They are very secure but are
not recommended for children under the age of three. If you’re
making a toy for an infant or young toddler, it is best to sew on a
piece of felt for the eyes or use yarn to embroider the eyes.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (often sold as Poly-Fil) is used to give
amigurumi their shape. It is available at most major craft stores
and online.
Felt: Craft felt can be used to add details to your amigurumi. For
any small detail that would be difficult to make out of yarn (such
as eyes or noses), simply cut the shape out of craft felt and attach
it with embroidery floss and a needle or use a hot glue gun. (Hot
glue works best with synthetic fibers like acrylic, because the heat
fuses the fibers together. For animal or plant fibers, I recommend
embroidering the felt onto the project.)
Project bag: This is a must-have if you like to craft on the go. A

project bag keeps all your supplies for your current project
organized and together.
Fantastical Additions
The world of amigurumi is getting more magical each day,

and new ways of customizing and personalizing your
creatures are being introduced all the time. To give your
creations a little extra shimmer, try using sparkle yarn, which
comes with tinsel woven into it. Safety eyes also come in a
broad range of styles, sizes, and colors. From dragon eyes to
holographic rainbow eyes, there are tons of options, and
most can be purchased online or in specialty craft stores.
You can apply powder blush to cheeks or even trim
down false eyelashes to add to your character. If you’re
giving your amigurumi away as a gift, consider adding some
biodegradable confetti to the packaging or using tulle
netting instead of tissue paper and tie it closed with a
ribbon bow. Make sure your finished project shows how
much time, effort, and love you poured into it so the
recipient knows just how special they are to you.
Reading a Pa n
At first glance, a crochet pattern can seem like a complicated spell
that uses unfamiliar words from an ancient language. But with a
little bit of practice and a basic understanding of how patterns are
laid out, you’ll be speaking fluent crochet in no time. The patterns
in this book all follow the same formula and have been designed
to get you crocheting as quickly as possible.
Each pattern starts with a list of materials to gather: the color
and weight of yarn, hook size, and any additional accessories and
tools you will need. This is followed by a complete list of all the
types of stitches that will be used and their abbreviations. I always
recommend reading through the list of stitches before beginning;
so you can practice any that you are less familiar with.
The heart of the pattern is the instructions. These are a step-
by-step guide for how to complete each round, as well as
notations to let you know when to repeat a set of stitches. The
instructions are written using the stitch abbreviations. Lastly, at
the end of each pattern there are tips explaining how to assemble
your amigurumi and add any finishing touches. I always find it
helpful to read through the instructions from start to finish at least
once before beginning a project to familiarize myself with the
coming steps.
US VS UK
The patterns in this book are written with US terminology, which
can lead to some confusion if you are already familiar with UK
crochet terms. The most obvious difference between the two sets
of terminologies is that a single crochet in the United States is
called a double crochet in the United Kingdom. If you’re more
familiar with UK terminology, here is a helpful chart to make sure
you’re using the right stitches when working on your project.
US TERMS UK TERMS
chain (ch) chain (ch)
stitch (st) stitch (st)
slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (ss)
single crochet (sc) double crochet (dc)
half double crochet (hdc) half treble crochet (htc)
double crochet (dc) treble crochet (tc)
single crochet decrease (sc2tog) double crochet decrease (dc2tog)
Essen al Amig umi S ches

The most common stitch used in amigurumi is the single crochet
stitch, because it creates a nice tidy fabric with very little space
between stitches. When you combine the single crochet stitch
with a few other basic stitches, you’ll be able to make any number
of magical creatures. .
MAGIC RING
The magic ring is created by crocheting into a large loop that can
be cinched tight; this loop is created by wrapping the yarn around
your fingers and working into the center.
Step 1: With the tail end closest to you, drape the working end of
the yarn over your index and middle fingers. Wrap the working
end around both fingers once. Insert the hook between the yarn
and top of the fingers.
Step 2: With your dominant hand index finger, hold the yarn in
place and drop the nondominant hand fingers from the ring. With
your nondominant hand, secure the working end of the yarn.
Step 3: Hook the working yarn and pull it through the center of
the ring.
Step 4: Chain 1 to secure the ring.
Step 5: You will work your crochet stitches for the first row into
the center of the ring. When you have the desired number of
stitches, pull the tail tight to cinch the ring closed.
SLIP KNOT
A slip knot is your first step when crocheting a piece that begins
with a base chain.
Step 1: Take a few inches of the working yarn and form a loop with
your fingers. Lay the loop over your working yarn.
Step 2: Insert your hook through the center of the loop you just
made and grab the working end of the yarn.
Step 3: Pull the yarn you’ve grabbed through the center of the
loop, then hold onto the tail end firmly, and pull the crochet hook
up to tighten the knot.
CHAIN STITCH (CH)

This is a basic stitch to form interlocking loops.
Step 1: Insert your hook into the slip knot and pull the loop snug
around the throat of the hook.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop. (Do not pull
this loop too tight; you want to create a nice V-shaped stitch and
not pull it into a firm knot.)
Step 3: Continue to yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop
on the hook until you create the required number of chain
stitches. (Never count the loop on the hook or the slip knot as
stitches.)
SINGLE CROCHET (SC)

The single crochet stitch is the most basic of crochet stitches.
Step 1: Insert the hook into the indicated stitch (through both
loops of the head of the stitch).
Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch only (2
loops remain on the hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook though the last 2 loops on the
hook.
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)

The half double crochet stitch is taller than the single crochet, yet
denser than the double crochet.
Step 1: Yarn over and insert the hook into the indicated stitch.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch (3 loops
remain on the hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through all 3 loops on the
hook.
DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)

The double crochet stitch produces a softer and looser fabric.
Step 1: Yarn over and insert the hook into the indicated stitch.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch (3 loops
remain on the hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through the first 2 loops on
the hook (2 loops remain on the hook).
Step 4: Yarn over and pull the hook through the last 2 loops on
the hook.
Step 5: Finished double crochet.
SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

The slip stitch is the shortest of all the stitches.
Step 1: Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch and loop on
the hook at the same time.
BACK LOOP ONLY (BLO)
Most often when making a stitch, you will insert your hook through
both loops of the head of the stitch. Occasionally you will need to
insert your hook in the top of the stitch through just the back loop
(the loop farthest from you) and work the next stitch as normal.
FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO)

Just as with the back loop only stitch, occasionally you will need to
insert your hook through the front of the stitch and out through
the top, picking up just the front loop (the loop closest to you) and
working the next stitch as normal.
PICOT (P)
The picot stitch can be used to embellish the edges of any
crocheted project.
Step 1: Chain 3.
Step 2: Insert the hook through the back bump of the third chain
from the hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch and loop on
the hook.
POPCORN STITCH (PC)

The popcorn stitch is a decorative stitch where multiple double
crochets are made in the same space and the working loop of the
last stitch is pulled through the first double crochet stitch made to
form a small bump.
Step 1: Work 5 double crochet stitches in the same stitch and
remove the hook from the loop.
Step 2: Insert the hook into the first double crochet of the 5
double crochet group.
Step 3: Insert the hook back through the loop that you originally
took it out of.
Step 4: Pull it through the first double crochet stitch to complete
the popcorn stitch.
INCREASE (INC)
To increase, make 2 stitches in the same space to increase the row
count by 1. For instance, the illustration here shows two double
crochets made into the same stitch, to increase by one.
DECREASE (DEC)
For all the patterns in this book, we will be using the “invisible
decrease” technique of crocheting 2 stitches together to
decrease the row count by 1.
Step 1: Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next 2
stitches, one after the other.
Step 2: Yarn over and pull your hook through the front loops of
the 2 stitches (2 loops remain on the hook).
Step 3: Yarn over and pull your hook through the last 2 loops on
the hook.
LEARN THE LINGO

In addition to listing the types of stitches in each round, every
pattern will include other common instructions. Here are the ones
you're most likely to see in this book, as well as some general
terms that are good to know.
Round: The patterns in this book are all worked in continuous

rounds, like a spiral. When you get to the last stitch in a round, you
simply continue on to the first stitch of the next round; no
complicated joining necessary. Using a stitch marker is a really
good way to keep track of where each round ends.
Asterisks: Sometimes there will be a set of instructions that

repeat within a round; these will be written after an asterisk
followed by a semicolon, then the number of times they are
repeated; for instance, “*Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep
from * 5 more times” means that you single crochet in the next
stitch, then increase in the following stitch, and repeat that same
pattern five more times. Sometimes there are instructions before
and/or after the repeat. For example, the instruction might start
with how many stitches to crochet before you begin the repeating
pattern and end with how many stitches to crochet after you’ve
finished the repeating pattern.
Brackets: At the end of each round, the total number of stitches

in that round is noted in brackets. This way you can make sure you
are staying on track with the pattern by counting the number of
stitches after you finish a round. (It’s not necessary to count after
each round, but if there are a lot of increases, decreases, or special
stitches in some part of your pattern, it’s always comforting to
know you have the right number before you move on to the next
round.)
Working yarn vs. tail: Working yarn is what is connected to the

skein and is the yarn you use to make your stitches. The tail is the
extra little length of yarn at the beginning of your project, or
where yarn was joined, or where you switched to a different color
yarn.
Right side vs. wrong side: The right side of your project will be the
outside of your amigurumi. It’s important to make sure you’re
working with the right side out, especially if you are on a round
that involves working in the front or back loops only. To make sure
you have the right side facing out when working in the round, pay
attention to how your hook is inserted into the next stitch. If your
hook is going from the outside of the project to the inside, the
right side is facing out. If your hook is going from the inside of the
project to the outside, it means the wrong side is facing out and it
would be best to flip it right side out before continuing.
Color Changes
Changing yarn colors is one of the quickest ways to

drastically change the appearance of your amigurumi,
whether you’re adding large color blocks, stripes, or even
just a few spots here and there. It’s surprisingly simple to do,
regardless of which stitch you’re using.
On the last stitch before the color change, work through
the stitch until it’s almost complete and there are only 2
loops remaining on the hook. Hold the working yarn of the
old color secure and grab your new color. Leave a short tail
(a few inches long) of the new color and, with your hook, pull
the new yarn through the remaining 2 loops on the hook.
Then continue crocheting as normal using the new color.
Once you have worked a few stitches in the new color, go
back to the color change spot and tie a knot (on the wrong
side/inside of the piece) with the tail of the new color and
the working yarn still attached to the skein of the old color,
then trim the excess. This knot will secure your work, and
since it’s on the inside of the amigurumi, there’s no need to
weave in ends.
Assemb ng Yo Creat e
This is the part of the process that really brings your creature to
life. It can also be the most challenging, because you need to find
the perfect placement for each piece and stitch everything
securely. One of the wonderful things about amigurumi is that
each piece is unique—two creatures made by the same crafter,
with the same yarn and the same pattern, can end up being
slightly different. The most important thing is that your amigurumi
looks right to you, its creator. If you follow the suggestions in this
book for the placement of limbs, snouts, and wings but things
don’t feel quite right, feel free to adjust the placements until your
amigurumi looks how you want it to look.
STUFFING, FASTENING OFF, AND CLOSING UP

Polyester fiberfill plays a large role in what your finished creature
will look like. The more stuffing you use, the stiffer and plumper the
creature will be. But be careful not to overstuff, or you will be able
to see white stuffing peeking through between the stitches. If you
need a particular limb to be more supple and capable of
movement, like a tail, for example, use less stuffing in that piece.
For amigurumi, it’s best to stuff your pieces as you go, because
it can be difficult to add stuffing when the piece is almost finished.
To do this, tear off small clumps of stuffing and use your fingers to
gently press it into place. (Putting too much stuffing in at once can
lead to a lumpy amigurumi.) If you’re using safety eyes, you’ll need
to attach them before you stuff and close off the head. The
patterns in this book include instructions for where and when to
attach the eyes. After completing the final round of each piece,
you may want to use the handle side of your hook to poke in a
little extra stuffing before closing that piece or attaching it to
another piece. Squeeze and massage the piece into the desired
shape.
Some pieces will need to be completely closed before they
can be assembled to form your finished creature. You’ll see
instructions in the pattern, but there are two basic techniques:
cinching the final round closed, and pressing the piece flat and
sewing the final round together.
To cinch the final round closed after you have fastened off the
yarn, grab your tapestry needle and thread it with the tail from the
end of the piece. Insert the needle into the front loop only of the
first stitch of the last round and pull the tail all the way through,
but not too tight. Repeat this step around the entire final round,
weaving the tail through the front loops. When you’re back at the
beginning of the round, pull the tail tight to cinch the final round
closed. Now you can insert the needle into the center of the ring
you just closed and pull it out somewhere along the side of the
piece, a few inches away. Pull the tail to the inside of the
amigurumi and trim any excess that comes out the other side.
To sew the final round together, press the piece so the top
edge lies flat and the last round of stitches line up. Consider how
the piece will be attached to the body and what sort of movement
that piece will have. If it’s a leg, you’ll want to stitch it closed so
that the foot is facing forward and the leg can move back and
forth where it is attached.
Whipstitch
Use the tapestry needle and the tail to whipstitch the edge
together. To do this, pass the needle through both edges that are
being joined, then loop it over the top before going through the
edges again, so that the needle is always going through in the
same direction (see illustration). Typically, the tail of the yarn is
also used to attach the piece to the body of the amigurumi, so
once you’ve finished crocheting a limb, don’t trim off the tail until
you’ve closed the limb and attached it.
LIMBS AND TAILS

Some amigurumi elements—like snouts, horns, and tails—will still
be open when they are attached. It is difficult to stuff these parts
fully before they are attached, because the stuffing can get pulled
through the stitches as it’s being sewn. The best way to prevent
this is to use just a very light amount of stuffing to begin with, just
enough so the piece keeps its shape. Begin sewing the piece in
place, and when there’s about an inch left open, insert more
stuffing until the piece is the desired shape, then carefully finish
sewing it on.
Limbs are attached with a simple whipstitch using a tapestry
needle and the long yarn tail from each limb. Once you’ve
positioned the limb, insert the needle into the body of the
creature, then rotate the needle so the tip will come up through
the edge of the limb, and pull the needle through. Repeat this
process all the way around the section of the limb that needs to
be attached. Try your best to insert the needle into the spaces
between stitches rather than into the stitches themselves. This will
result in a much more attractive seam.
For limbs that are crocheted closed (e.g., Davina the Dragon’s
arms and legs), you’ll stitch around the curved end of the limb. If
you’d like the limbs to be able to move, stitch just along the top
edge. If you’d like limbs to stay in position a little more
permanently, add some stitches down the sides of them. The
farther down the limb you stitch, the better it will stay in position.
For limbs that are sewn closed (e.g., Zinnia the Garden Fairy’s
legs), place the limb in position and use a whipstitch to attach it.
These types of limbs are designed to move back and forth, so only
stitch along the top edge, where the leg meets the body.
After you’ve attached a piece, the only thing that remains is
securing the tail and weaving in the end: Take the tapestry needle
and work the tail in between a few stitches along the seam where
the piece was attached, then insert the needle into either the
body of the amigurumi or the freshly attached limb and out the
other side, pulling the tail to the inside of the work. Trim any
excess tail, and you’re all done.
PLACEMENT
Figuring out the best placement for your amigurumi’s elements is
all about finding symmetry and balance. If you’re using safety
eyes, you will have inserted them into the head before closing
your amigurumi, and they will provide a great starting point to
work from.
It can be very helpful to mark out on the head and body where
different limbs and features will be attached. You can use
removable stitch markers, bobby pins, or even glass-head sewing
pins to map out where you’ll be stitching the pieces together.
I like to begin with the face and head, as this is what will give
the amigurumi the most personality. Imagine a line drawn down
the very center of your amigurumi. The snout will be centered on
that line and about halfway between the eyes and the bottom of
the head. Ears and horns will almost always be the same distance
away from that center line and parallel to each other. Arms and
legs will follow a similar pattern, evenly spaced from that
imaginary middle line and on the same level as one another. Last
will come the tail, wings, and any other part that may appear on
the back of your creature.
Placement is all about what looks and feels right to you as the
creator, but I’ve found that starting from the top and working my
way down, and starting from the front and working my way back, is
the best method for keeping my amigurumi symmetrical and
balanced. The patterns in this book each include more specific
instructions to help you in assembling the pieces of your
amigurumi.
FANGS AND FACES

In addition to all the crochet pieces that make up your amigurumi,
you can add other features using yarn, some basic embroidery
techniques, and felt cutouts. Noses, whiskers, mouths, eyebrows,
and more can be added to take your amigurumi from cute to truly
magical.
To create facial features using yarn, cut a medium-to-long
strand and use a tapestry needle to embroider the desired
shapes. A wide V shape makes a sweet smile, and straight lines can
create expressive eyebrows. You can even make multiple passes
over the same few stitches to make an adorable nose. Wherever
you insert your needle, leave a short tail. Pass the needle in and
out of the amigurumi to create your desired design, and with the
final stitch, bring your needle out in the same space where you
began. Tie the two tails together, then pull them to the inside of
the amigurumi.
Making detail pieces with felt is a great alternative to
embroidering them with yarn. You can cut out shapes to make all
sorts of features. Felt can be attached with embroidery floss and
an embroidery needle or with a hot glue gun and some hot glue. (If
using hot glue, make sure your felt is where you want it, because
once it’s applied, it is incredibly difficult to remove.)
MANES, FUR, AND FLOWING LOCKS

Having a good hair day is not just for humans anymore; some of
the creatures in this book also want to look like they just stepped
out of the salon/groomer. Yarn can be cut into long strips and
knotted directly into your amigurumi. For animals like pegacorns,
you can attach the yarn directly to the amigurumi. For more
humanlike creatures, such as fairies and mermaids, it’s best to
crochet a small hair cap in the same color yarn as the hair, sew the
hair cap in place, then knot the individual hair pieces to the hair
cap rather than directly to the creature’s head. Each relevant
pattern will have instructions regarding making a hair cap and
where to attach the yarn hair.
For the hair itself, you’ll need to cut a number of lengths of
yarn, each slightly longer than you want the finished hairstyle to
be. One way to do this quickly is to take a small piece of
cardboard and wrap the yarn around it many times, then use
scissors to cut the yarn in half along one of the cardboard edges.
To attach the yarn, we’ll use lark’s head knots: Grab one strand
of yarn and your crochet hook. Insert the hook through one stitch
of the amigurumi or hair cap, fold the yarn strand in half, and use
the hook to grab the middle of that strand (where it's folded). Pull
the middle of the folded yarn through the stitch and partway out
the other side to create a small loop. Use the hook to grab the two
tails of the yarn on the other side of the stitch and pull them all the
way through the small loop on your hook. Remove the hook and
pull the two tails until the loop is tight.
For the best results, make sure the hook is pointed toward the
center or back of the amigurumi wherever you are attaching a
piece of hair; this will keep the small knot to the inside so it won’t
be seen. Repeat this process with as many strands of yarn as
necessary to give your creature their perfect hairdo. For more
humanlike creatures, you can add a strand of hair to each stitch in
the hair cap for the fullest possible head of hair, or you can add a
strand every other stitch for a less bulky hairstyle. When using a
hair cap, make sure to add a strand of yarn to every stitch along
the edge near the face for full coverage along the hairline. Once
you’ve finished adding all the yarn strands you would like, trim and
style the hair however you choose. You can part it down the
middle, tie it up into a bun or pigtails, or leave it wild.
Gauging Giants & Borrowers: Sizing Your
Amigurumi
One of the simplest things you can do to drastically alter the

appearance of your magical creature is change its size.
Whether you want to shrink your amigurumi down to
pocket-size or expand it to something more huggable,
making the change all comes down to the weight of the yarn
and the size of the hook you use. Using thick yarn and a
large hook will result in supersize squishable stuffies,
whereas using a fine yarn with a small hook will create
delightfully delicate dolls. Most yarn labels have a
recommended hook size, and this is an excellent place to
start. Amigurumi requires a particularly tight tension, which
creates a dense fabric with very little space between
stitches, because you will be filling your projects with
stuffing—and nothing is more embarrassing to a stuffed
animal than when their stuffing is showing due to loose
stitches.
The trick to finding the right size hook is to make a
tension gauge swatch. Start the pattern as normal, but after
a few rounds stop to examine your work. If there are gaps
between the stitches, try a hook one size smaller. Or if you
find that the stitches are so tight you can barely squeeze
your hook in, try a hook one size larger. This can feel a little
tedious, especially if you’re excited to get started on your
project, but making sure that you’re using the right tools for
the project is the best way to create something you will be
truly proud of.
Once you’ve selected your yarn and found the right
hook, just follow the pattern—it’s that easy. Try using a size
6 super bulky weight yarn to make an enormous kraken, or a
size 3 lightweight yarn to make a delicate fairy. Yarn comes
in a wonderful variety of textures, sizes, and colors, all
waiting for you to work your magic and turn them into
something spectacular.
C e of Magical Creat es
Amigurumi are pretty low-maintenance creatures, but there are
some things you can do to ensure they withstand the test of time.
I recommend spot cleaning in most cases. A little bit of cool water
and gentle detergent on a washcloth should be enough to remove
most dirt. If you need to introduce a creature to a washing
machine, it’s best to follow the care instructions on the yarn label.
Generally, yarn instructions recommend a cold-water wash on a
delicate cycle and a tumble dry with low to no heat. (It’s very
important to make sure the stuffing gets completely dry to avoid
any mold or bacteria growth.)
It’s also a good idea to occasionally examine all the places
where pieces are attached to the amigurumi to make sure that
nothing is coming loose. Yarn is quite strong, but it’s sensible to
make sure everything is secure, especially anything small enough
to be a choking hazard if it were to become detached. Double-
check that safety eyes are still locked in place and won’t come out
with a strong tug.
Prac cing and P sona zing

When it comes to crochet, the two most important elements to
master are the position in which you hold the hook and
maintaining a consistent tension on the working yarn. The best
way to achieve consistent tension is through lots of practice, so
don’t be discouraged if at first your stitches are a bit inconsistent.
Repetition of the basic stitches and techniques builds muscle
memory, and before long your stitches will come out even every
time.
Once you have all the basic skills that you’ll need to make any
of the amigurumi patterns from this book, it’s up to you to make
them your own. All the magical creatures in part 2 use some
combination of the basic stitches and techniques. After
completing a few characters from this book, you’ll be able to
create entirely new creatures by mixing and matching different
pieces. Try using different colors, different types of yarn, and
unique finishing touches.
Are you ready to start creating a menagerie of magical
creatures? Grab your hook and some yarn and let’s get going!
PART TWO
Crea ng Crochet Magic

Now that you have taken your first steps in
understanding how to choose the right materials for a
project and reviewed the stitches you’ll need, how to
start and finish, and how to piece everything together,
it’s time to start making!
The patterns here are designed to introduce you
to a variety of techniques for making amigurumi.
There is something unique to be learned from each of
these creatures: the forest inhabitants, the ocean
dwellers, and those who soar through the sky. Some
will involve interesting construction techniques,
whereas others are assembled in unusual ways. They
are all created using a combination of a few basic
crochet stitches, and several contain beginner-
friendly decorative stitches to add a bit of texture or
shape. Each pattern contains step-by-step
instructions with a few helpful guideposts to keep
you headed in the right direction, as well as detailed
instructions on how to assemble your magical
amigurumi.
The knowledge you gain from working through the
patterns in this book will open the door to many
amigurumi crochet patterns that can be found out in
the world. All that remains is for you to start creating
magical amigurumi creatures of your own.
DAVINA THE Dragon
Dragons may be the most well-known of the magical
creatures. They come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and
they appear in legends and stories told in a number of
countries all across the globe. In some traditions, dragons
are known for collecting huge piles of gold and precious
stones and guarding them fiercely. Davina would be more
than happy to protect any treasures you may have lying
around. All the pieces that make up this dazzling creature
are made in continuous rounds. The head and body are
worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately
and sewn on. The nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.
Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Light Violet
• Caron One Pound in Lilac
• US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook
• 14 mm black safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Single crochet (sc)
• Increase (inc)
• Invisible decrease (dec)
Head and Body
Make 1 in Light Violet
Make a magic ring.
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]
Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more
times. [18 sts]
Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]
Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.
Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36
sts]
sts]
Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]
You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make
the body.
times. [18 sts]
Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5
more times. [24 sts]
Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the
shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.
sts]
sts]
Round 35: Dec in each pair of sts around. [6 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing
the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to
weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the
tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.
Snout
Make a magic ring.
Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st;
rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]
Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts,
inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for
attaching to the body, and set aside.
Large Horns
Make 2 in Lilac
Make a magic ring.
Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6
sts]
Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]
Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2
sts. [8 sts]
sts. [10 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the
body, then set aside.
Small Horns
Make 2 in Lilac
Make a magic ring.
sts]
sts. [8 sts]
head, and set aside.
Belly
Make 1 in Lilac
Make a magic ring.
Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep
from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in
the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]
body, and set aside.
Arms
Make a magic ring.
Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]
Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep
their shape but remain supple and pliable.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and
attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail
through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to
close the arm, then set aside.
Legs
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Lilac.
the next st; rep from * 2 more times, sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]
On last st of Round 4, change to Light Violet.
Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]
You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue
to stuff as you work the leg.
Finish stuffing the leg.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and
close the leg, then set aside.
Tail
Make a magic ring.
sts. [8 sts]
sts. [10 sts]
sts. [12 sts]
Wings
To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch
marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes
time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make
your first st.
Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten
off the yarn.
Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them
together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).
Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .
Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you
placed the removable stitch marker.
. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .
Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the
removable stitch marker.
. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .
This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones
that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way
back to the beginning of the round.
. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in
the next 5 sts on the first cone.
You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with
10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue
working in the round as normal. [30 sts]
sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for
attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail
close the wing, then insert your needle through the center of
the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones;
set aside.
Assembly
Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.
1. Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top sits on the
round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.
2. For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Lilac yarn and
embroider two short horizontal lines between Rounds 3 and 4
of the snout. Each line should be about 2 sts long and evenly
spaced from the center.
3. Stuff and attach the large horns to the top of the head so the
inside edge of the horn is around Round 3 of the head. Angle
the horns so the curve is pointing toward the back.
4. Stuff and attach the small horns directly to the outside of the
large horns.
5. Attach the belly piece, centering it on the body.
6. Set your Dragon on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it
on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next
to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front
of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the
body. The top of the leg should be around 5 sts away from
the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with the
second leg.
7. With the Dragon still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of
the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in
between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top
of the arm sits to the outside of the belly piece; stitch the top
edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on
the other side of the belly piece with the second arm.
8. With your Dragon still sitting on a flat surface, stuff the tail, set
it on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body,
and attach it.
9. Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway
between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart, and
evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the
cone.
COSMO THE Ca corn
Caticorns are a fairly recent discovery in the magical world.
It wasn’t until we spoed one curled up for a nap in a
particularly warm patch of sunlight that we even knew they
existed. Much like their house cat cousins, these fantastic
felines make excellent companions. Once a Caticorn
chooses a human, their friendship will last a lifetime. All the
pieces that make up this phenomenal feline are crocheted in
continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one
piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on.
The nose and whiskers are embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Baby Rainbow
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Yellow
• Caron One Pound in White
• Caron One Pound in Rose (just a small amount for the nose)
• Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for the whiskers)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in Baby Rainbow
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
the body.
Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue
stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.
the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle
to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull
the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set
aside.
Horn
Make 1 in Yellow
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
attaching to the body, then set aside.
Ears
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and
attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed,
then set aside.
Arms and Legs

Make a magic ring.
Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of
your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of
the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and stitch it closed,
leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set
aside.
Tail
Make a magic ring.
Wings
Make 2 in White
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
your first st.

off the yarn.
sts]
sts]
close the wing, insert your needle through the center of the last
round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones, then set
aside.
Assembly
1. Stuff and attach the horn. It should be placed in the center of

the forehead, 3 rounds up from the tops of the eyes.
2. Attach the ears in a straight line across the top of the head.
The inside corner of the base of the ear should be attached
between Rounds 2 and 3 of the head.
3. Take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use a tapestry needle

to embroider the nose. The top portion of the nose should be
3 stitches wide, centered between the eyes, and 1 round
down from the middle of the eyes. To give the nose a T shape,
make one vertical line down the center of the face, about 2
stitches (st) long, before making multiple horizontal passes at
the top of that line.
4. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry

needle to embroider the whiskers. The whiskers are made
with 3 lines that start in the same space and fan out. Begin
with the middle whisker and make a horizontal line 3 sts long
that starts 1 round down from the bottom of the eye and 1 st
over from the outside edge of the eye. The top whisker
should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the
end of the middle whisker closer to the nose and ends 1
round up from the other end of the middle whisker. The
bottom whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the
same space as the first 2 whiskers and ends 1 round down
from the other end of the middle whisker.
5. Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the

narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a
slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than
the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.
6. To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat
surface. The leg should have stuffing only in the front half, so
it should be shaped like a wedge. Without lifting the body,
slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and
angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in
place and lift the Caticorn so you can attach it by sewing the
bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on
the other side with second leg.
7. With your Caticorn still sitting on a flat surface, stuff the tail,
set it on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the
body, and attach it.

between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart and
cone.
LEONARD THE Dandy-Lion
Dandy-Lions are found in meadows and fields. These
curious creatures are very social and tend to congregate in
large groups. If you spot a Dandy-Lion in your yard, it would
be best to safely relocate it, or before you know it, your lawn
will be overrun. All the pieces that make up this gregarious
creature are crocheted in continuous rounds. The head and
body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made
separately and sewn on. The mane is created by knoing
many strands of yarn directly to the head. The nose and
whiskers are embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Yellow
• Caron One Pound in Grass Green
• Caron One Pound in Rose (just a small amount for the nose)
• Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for whiskers)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
• Lark’s head knot
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Yellow.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
On the last st of Round 18, change to Grass Green.
the body.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Ears
Make 2 in Yellow
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat
and stitch it closed, then set aside.
Arms and Legs

Make 4 in Grass Green
Make a magic ring.
leaving the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.
Tail
Make 1 in Grass Green
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
body, then set aside. The tail is not stuffed.
Assembly
1. Attach the ears in a straight line across the top of the head.
The inside corner of the base of the ear should be attached
between Rounds 2 and 3 of the head.

3 sts wide, centered between the eyes, and 1 round down
from the middle of the eyes. To give the nose a T shape, make
one vertical line down the center of the face, about 2 stitches
long, before making multiple horizontal passes at the top of
that line.
needle to embroider the whiskers. The whiskers are made
with 3 lines that start in the same space and fan out. Begin
with the middle whisker and make a horizontal line 3 sts long
that starts 1 round down from the bottom of the eye and 1 st
over from the outside edge of the eye. The top whisker
should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the
end of the middle whisker closer to the nose and ends 1
round up from the other end of the middle whisker. The
bottom whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the
same space as the first 2 whiskers and ends 1 round down
from the other end of the middle whisker.

surface. The leg should only have stuffing in the front half, so
it should be shaped like a wedge. Without lifting the body,
slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and
angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in
place and lift the Dandy-Lion so you can attach it by sewing
the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps
on the other side with second leg.
6. With your Dandy-Lion still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail
on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body,
and attach it.
7. For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Yellow yarn
around 5 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll be
using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use your
crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand
through a stitch on the head to make a small loop. Pull the
two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, and
pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Attach strands of
yarn to every stitch on the back and sides of the head, leaving
a large circle for the face, which should span from about 8
rounds above the eyes to 2 rounds below the nose and from
1 st to the outside of the whiskers on either side. If you’d like a
less fluffy Dandy-Lion, feel free to attach strands of yarn to
only every other stitch on the head. Once you’ve finished
attaching all the strands, use your scissors to trim the mane to
the desired length, which was around 1 inch long for my
Dandy-Lion.
PIPPIN THE Jackalope
One of the cutest North American cryptids (an animal
whose existence has never been proven), the Jackalope has
the body of a jackrabbit and the antlers of an antelope.
Many people think Jackalopes are just a hoax that turned
into a tall tale, but I choose to believe that there are some
horned bunnies hopping around the forest. Either way,
Pippin will make an adorable addition to any household. All
the pieces for this mysterious crier are made in continuous
rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all
the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The nose is
embroidered on with yarn.
Size: 9½ inches tall x 6 inches wide
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Taupe
• Caron One Pound in Off White
• Caron One Pound in Rose (small amount for embroidering nose)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in Taupe
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
Snout
Make 1 in Off White
Make a magic ring.
attaching to the head, then set aside.
Ears
Make 2 in Taupe
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
time. [14 sts]
more time. [16 sts]
more time. [18 sts]
sewing the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear
flat so the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and
the tail to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the
ear in half and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the
ear, then set aside.
Antlers
Long Piece
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
head, then set aside.
Short Piece
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the long
piece of the antler, then set aside.
Arms
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Off White.
On the last st of Round 5, change to Taupe.
Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can
keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.
Legs
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Off White.
inc in the next st 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]
On last st of Round 9, change to Taupe.
Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds of 12 sts]
Tail
Make a magic ring.
body. Use the handle side of your hook to poke a little bit of
stuffing into the Jackalope tail, then use a tapestry needle to
weave the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round.
Pull the yarn tail tight to close the tail, then set aside.
Assembly
1. Attach the snout (no need to stuff), lining it up so the top

edge sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is
centered on the face.

2 sts wide between Rounds 2 and 3 of the snout. To give the
nose a T shape, make one vertical line down the center of the
nose, about 3 sts long, before making multiple horizontal
passes at the top of that line.
3. Attach the ears about 4 rounds from the top of the head, with
the inside curve of the ear facing forward.
4. Stuff and attach the long pieces of the antlers, lining them up
so the bottom edge is 3 rounds above the tops of the eyes.
5. Stuff and attach the short pieces of the antlers, lining them up
about halfway up on the inside of the long pieces of the
antlers.
6. Set your Jackalope on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set
it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it
next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in
front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of
the body. The top of the leg should be around 7 sts away
from the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other
side with the second leg.
7. With the Jackalope still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of
of the arm sits between where the leg is attached and the
head; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body.
Repeat these steps on the other side with the second arm.
8. With your Jackalope still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail
on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body,
and attach it.
TOSHIKO THE K sune
Kitsune are ancient fox spirits from Japan. The more tails a
Kitsune has, the older, wiser, and more powerful they are.
Although they have been portrayed as tricksters, they are
also spoken of as faithful guardians and friends. Toshiko
would make an excellent companion for someone in your life
who is both a good friend and a lile bit mischievous. All the
pieces for this vulpine vixen are worked in continuous
rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and
the limbs and tails are made separately and sewn on. The
nose is embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Red Heart with Love worsted (100% acrylic; 370 yards (338 m) / 198 g) in Tangerine
• Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Soft
White
• Red Heart Super Saver in Café Latte
• Red Heart Super Saver in Black (small amount for embroidering nose)
• US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in Tangerine
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
Snout
Make 1 in Soft White
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
times. [18 sts]
Ears
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Café Latte.
time. [8 sts]
On last stitch of Round 3, change to Tangerine.
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
then set aside.
Belly
Make a magic ring.
from * 2 more times, sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in
Arms
Make 2
On the last st of Round 8, change to Tangerine.
Legs
Make 2
On last st of Round 11, change to Tangerine.
Tails
Make 9
Make a magic ring in Soft White.
time. [8 sts]
times. [12 sts]
On the last st of Round 5, change to Tangerine.
times. [18 sts]
Round 10: *Sc in the next 7 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [16
sts]
Begin stuffing the tail and continue to stuff as you work the
remaining rounds.
sts]
Round 16: *Sc in the next 5, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]
Finish stuffing the tail.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the Kitsune
tail and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave
the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round; pull the
yarn tail tight to close the tail, then set aside.
Assembly
1. Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top edge sits on
the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the
face.
2. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use the tapestry

needle to make multiple passes about 1 st long on the tip of
the snout, creating a little black nose.
3. Attach the ears about 3 rounds from the top of the head,
stitching along the bottom of the ear with the brown tip
pointing up.
4. Attach the belly piece centered on the body.
5. Set your Kitsune on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it
on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next
to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front
of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the
the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with the
second leg.
6. With the Kitsune still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of
of the arm sits to the outside of the belly piece; stitch the top
edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on
the other side of the belly piece with the second arm.
7. With your Kitsune still sitting on a flat surface, set tail 1 on the
flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and
attach it. Secure the base of the tail with several stitches.
8. For tails 2 and 3, place them on either side of tail 1 and attach
the bases as close to the base of tail 1 as you can.
9. Repeat the process with tails 4 and 5 on the outside of tails 2

and 3. The back of your Kitsune should now have a row of 5
tails attached close together at the base so the ends fan out.
10. Attach tails 6 to 9 to the round of the body above the first
row of tails, so they sit in the spaces between the first row of
tails.
ZINNIA THE G den Fa y
Fairies are the most industrious of the magical creatures;
they each have their own important job to perform to keep
the natural world running smoothly. Zinnia is a garden fairy,
and it is her job to make sure everything grows according to
plan. She would make a great companion for someone in
your life with a green thumb. Her curls and the flower bands
in her hair are worked flat, and everything else is worked in
continuous rounds. Her head and body are worked as one
piece, and everything else is made separately and sewn on.
Size: 10½ inches tall x 6 inches wide
Materials:
• Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Café
Latte
• Red Heart with Love worsted (100% acrylic; 370 yards (338 m) / 198 g) in Lettuce
• Red Heart Super Saver in Light Pink
• Red Heart Super Saver in Shocking Pink
• Red Heart Super Saver in Soft White
• Red Heart Super Saver in Black (small amount for mouth)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Half double crochet (hdc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Back loop only (BLO)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
On the last st of Round 23, change to Lettuce.
Round 30: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [30 sts]
The front loops from Round 30 are where we will attach the petals
of Zinnia’s skirt.
sts]
sts]
Arms
Make 2 in Café Latte
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry
needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last
round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.
Legs
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Lettuce.
On the last st of Round 6, change to Café Latte.
attaching it to the body. With the foot facing forward, press the
top of the leg flat and stitch it closed. The seam at the top of the
leg should be perpendicular to the foot so when it is attached
to the body the leg can move backward and forward.
Skirt Petals
Make 3 in Light Pink
Make 3 in Shocking Pink
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the petal and
attaching it to the body. Press the petal flat and stitch it closed,
then set aside.
Hair Cap
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
attaching the hair cap to the head, then set aside.
Hair Buns
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching the hair
bun to the head.
Curls
For the curl, we will start with a short chain and then make an hdc
inc in each st across the chain to make it curl.
Ch 13.
Row 1: 2 hdc in the second ch from the hook, 2 hdc in each st
across the chain. [24 sts]
You may need to guide the curl a little so it spirals in the correct
direction. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching
to the head, then set aside.
Ears
Make a magic ring.
time. [6 sts]
time. [8 sts]
then set aside.
Flower Hairbands
Ch 17.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each st down the
chain, ch 1 and turn. [16 sts]
Row 2: *3 dc in the next st, sl st in the next st; rep from * 7 more
times. [32 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail for attaching to the head,
then set aside.
Long Wings
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the wing and
close the wing, then set aside.
Short Wings
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the wing and
close the wing, then set aside.
Assembly
1. Begin with the legs: Stitch the tops of the legs to the bottom
of the fairy’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The
inside corner of the top of each leg should be right at the
center of the bottom of the fairy’s body.
2. The Light Pink skirt petals will be attached to the front loops
from Round 30 of the body. (You’ll notice a horizontal line
around the waist of the body was created by working Round
30 in the BLO.) Attach the first petal center front. The
remaining petals will be attached evenly spaced around the
body, with 3 sts in between each petal.
3. The Shocking Pink petals will be attached on the round

directly above where the Light Pink Petals were attached. The
Shocking Pink petals should be staggered with the row of
petals below, so that the middle of each petal is over the
space between the Light Pink petals.
4. Attach the arms to the sides of the body, 1 round down from
the neck (the thinnest round on the body). Angle the arms
slightly forward and stitch around the top edge.
5. Take the hair cap and, with the tail positioned at center back,
pull the cap down on the head. It should be angled slightly
back so the hair cap sits around 3 rounds above the tops of
the eyes in the front and about 5 rounds up from the neck in
the back. Use the long tail to stitch the hair cap in place.
6. Attach the ears so the bottom of each ear lines up with the
bottom of the eyes. Place the ears 2 sts to the outside of each
eye and rotate them so the tips of the ears are pointed
toward the back of the body. Stitch along the bottom edge.

needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines
that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile. Find
the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds down
to locate where the center of the smile should be. The corners
of the mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and
1 round up.
8. Attach the hair curls to the bottom of the hair cap, on either
side of the face, in between the eyes and the ears.
9. Stuff the hair buns and attach them to the top of the head.
The inside edge of each bun should be about 4 rounds from
the center of the hair cap.
10. Place the flower hairbands around the base of the hair buns.
The hairbands will have a natural curve that will fit to the
shape of the bun. Stitch the short edges at the ends of the
hairband together to form a ring and weave in the ends.
11. Attach the long wings 1 round down from the neck and 1 st
away from the center of the fairy’s back.
12. Attach the short wings directly below the long wings.
GUS THE Enchanted Mushroom
Most people traveling through a dark forest don’t stray too
far from the path, but if you did, you might find yourself
face-to-face with one of these delightful creatures. Despite
their cheery, sunny nature, Enchanted Mushrooms prefer a
cold, wet, dark climate. They are oen seen in the company
of fairies, because their large caps make an excellent table
for a picnic. Gus is welcome at most parties because he’s a
really fun guy. All the pieces that make up Gus are
crocheted in continuous rounds. The body is worked as one
piece. A wide brim that will act as a base for the mushroom
cap to rest on is worked directly into the body. The
mushroom cap, spots, and limbs are made separately and
sewn on.
Size: 8½ inches tall x 5½ inches wide
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Cream
• Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine
• Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for mouth)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Body
Make 1 in Cream
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
The front loops from Round 9 will be used to create a base for the
mushroom cap.
Begin stuffing the body; continue stuffing as you work the
remaining rounds.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Base of the Mushroom Cap

Join Cream yarn to the body by locating the first front loop from
Round 9 of the body, then insert your hook and pull a loop of
yarn through, leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.
Round 1: Starting in the same space as where you joined the yarn,
*sc in the next 5 front loops, inc in the next front loop; rep from
* 5 more times. [42 sts]
times. [48 sts]
times. [54 sts]
times. [60 sts]
times. [66 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail.
Mushroom Cap
Make 1 in Raspberry Wine
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
times. [48 sts]
sts]
attaching to the base of the mushroom cap on the body. Using a
tapestry needle, begin stitching the mushroom cap to the
Cream base on the body, but make sure to stitch only to the
back loop (inside loop) of the red mushroom cap, leaving the
front loop (outside loop) free. Once you’ve stitched about
three-quarters of the way around, stuff the mushroom cap and
continue stuffing as you finish stitching around.
Finishing the Mushroom Cap

Join Raspberry Wine yarn to one of the front loops from where
you just attached the mushroom cap to the mushroom cap
base by inserting your hook and pulling a loop of yarn through,
leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.
Round 1: Sc in each front loop around (starting in the same space
as where you joined the yarn). [66 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the ends.
Arms and Legs

Make 4 in Cream
Make a magic ring.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches. Using
the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to
the bottom half of the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and
stitch it closed, leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the
Large Spots
Make 3 in White
Make a magic ring.
mushroom cap.
Small Spots
Make 5 in White
Make a magic ring.
mushroom cap.
Assembly

surface. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place,
slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and
sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the
mushroom so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of
the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with
second leg.

that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile. Find
the center point between the eyes and count 3 rounds down
to locate where the center of the smile should be. The corners
of the mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and
1 round up.
4. Attach the large and small spots to the top of the mushroom
cap. This is an excellent opportunity to customize your
amigurumi to your taste. No two mushrooms are alike, so
arrange the spots in a way that looks right to you.
BASIL THE ying Pig
Have you ever wanted something but been told that it will
only happen “when pigs fly”? Well, I’ve got great news for
you—that time is now! This winged piggy is a sign of
excellent luck heading your way. Next time something feels
impossible, just grab your hook and whip up one of these
soaring swine. All of the pieces for this good luck charm are
crocheted in continuous rounds, except for the tail, which is
worked flat. The head and body are worked as one piece, all
the limbs are made separately and sewn on, and the nostrils
are embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Light Pink
• Caron One Pound in Rose
• Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for nostrils)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
the body.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Ears
Make a magic ring
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat
and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.
Snout
Make a magic ring.
Arms and Legs

Make 4
Make a magic ring in Rose.
On the last st of Round 3, change to Light Pink.
leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set
aside.
Tail
To make a curly tail, we will make a short chain and then make an
hdc inc in each st across the chain to make it curl.
Ch 10.
Round 1: Hdc 2 in the second ch from the hook, hdc 2 in each st
You may need to guide the curl a little so it spirals in the correct
direction. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching
to the body, then set aside.
Wings
Make 2 in White
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
your first st.

off the yarn.
sts]
sts]
close the wing, insert your needle through the center of the last
round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones, then set
aside.
Assembly
1. Lay the ears flat on the top of the head with the points facing
forward, so the inside corners of the back edge sit around
Round 3 of the head, and sew along the back edge.
2. Stuff the snout and attach it centered between the eyes so

the top edge of the nose is in line with the center of the eyes.
needle to embroider the snout by making a vertical line about
2 sts tall on either side of the center of the snout.

slightly to the inside of the arms, angled outward, and sitting
on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the Flying Pig
so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to
the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second
leg.
6. With your Flying Pig still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail on
the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and
attach it by sewing just the bottom edge in place. Use your
fingers to adjust the direction of the curl if necessary.

between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart, and
cone.
QUENTIN THE Gnome
Diminutive and mysterious, gnomes are widely known for
their penchant for hanging out in gardens. These jolly earth
spirits have the ability to move under the earth as quickly as
we move on top of it. Instantly recognizable by their pointy
hats and even pointier beards, gnomes are a welcome guest
in most homes. Quentin would make an exceptional gi, as
he helps keep a home grounded while giving off an air of
whimsy. All the pieces for these tiny magical men are
crocheted in continuous rounds, except for the eyebrows,
which are worked flat. The head and body are worked as one
piece, and the cap, facial features, and all the limbs are
made separately and sewn on.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Cream
• Caron One Pound in Royalty
• Caron One Pound in Dark Brown
• Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Cream.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
On the last st of Round 18, change to Royalty.
the body.
On the last st of Round 26, change to Dark Brown.
On the last st of Round 27, change to Royalty.
The front loops from Round 29 will be used to continue the tunic
after the body is completed.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Finishing the Tunic

Join Royalty yarn by locating the first front loop from Round 29 of
the body, insert your hook through the top of the loop, pointed
toward the bottom of the body, and pull a loop of yarn through
leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.
Round 1: Sc in each front loop around (starting in the same space
as where you joined the yarn). [42 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the ends.
Nose
Make 1 in Cream
Make a magic ring.
attaching to the body. Use the handle side of your hook to poke
a little bit of stuffing into the nose, then use a tapestry needle to
tail tight to close the nose, then set aside.
Ears
Make 2 in Cream
Make a magic ring
then set aside.
Eyebrows
Make 2 in White
Ch 5.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, hdc in each st
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the face,
then set aside.
Mustache
Make 2 in White
Make a magic ring.
then set aside.
Beard
Make 1 in White
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
stitching the beard closed and attaching to face. Press the
beard flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.
Arms
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Cream.
On last st of Round 4, change to Royalty.
the arm. Press the top of the arm flat and stitch it closed, leaving
the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.
Legs
Make 2 in Dark Brown
Make a magic ring.
the leg. Press the top of the leg flat and stitch it closed, leaving
the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.
Cap
Make 1 in Raspberry Wine
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head,
then set aside.
Assembly
1. Attach the nose centered between the eyes with the top of
the nose 1 round down from the bottom of the eyes.
2. Attach the eyebrows centered directly above each eye so

that the bottom edge of the eyebrow is just barely above the
top of the eye.
3. Attach the ears to the sides of the face. They should be about
3 sts away from the eyes, and the top of the ear should line up
with the top of the eye.

slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and
sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the
Gnome so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of
the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with
second leg.
6. Attach the top of the beard (the edge that you stitched
closed) centered on the face, 2 rounds down from the
bottom of the nose. You will need to stitch only along the top
edge of the beard.
7. Attach the mustache ovals above the beard but below the
nose. You will only need to stitch along the top edge of each
mustache oval, and they will overlap with the top of the
beard.
8. Stuff and attach the cap. It should fit over the top of the head;
the brim in the front should be 1 round up from the eyebrows,
and the brim in back should be 1 round up from the neck.
ARGOS THE Cyclops
Tales of one-eyed giants have been around for centuries.
Sometimes they’re portrayed as monsters accused of eating
people; other times they are seen as talented blacksmiths.
The only thing we know for certain about Cyclopes is that
they get 50 percent off at the eye doctor.
If you need someone to keep an eye out for you, Argos is
your Cyclops—just be sure to keep him in a safe spot with
few obstacles to maneuver around, as his depth perception
isn’t great. Argos’s head, body, limbs, ears, and eye are all
made in continuous rounds and sewn together. His eyelid is
worked flat and sewn on, and his hair is knoed directly
onto his head.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Sunflower
• Caron One Pound in Dark Brown
• Caron One Pound in White (small amount for eye)
• Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)
• Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine (small amount for hair)
• 14 mm black safety eye (just one!)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Sunflower.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
Eyeball
Make 1 in White
Make a magic ring.
attaching to the head. Insert a 14 mm plastic safety eye into the
center of the magic ring, then set aside.
Eyelid
Make 1 in Sunflower
Ch 7.
Row 1: Inc in the second ch from the hook, inc in each st across
the chain, ch 1 and turn. [12 sts]
Row 2: Sc in each st across. [12 sts]
Ears
Make a magic ring.
attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch the last
round closed, then set aside.
Arms
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
Legs
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Sunflower.
leg should be perpendicular to the foot, so when it is attached
Assembly
of the Cyclops’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The
center of the bottom of the Cyclops’s body.
2. Attach the arms on either side of the body, straight out to the
sides, 1 round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the
body).
3. Add a little stuffing to the eyeball and attach it to the center

of the face; the top of the eyeball should sit on Round 9 of
the head.
4. Attach the base of the eyelid (Round 1 of the eyelid, the

shorter edge) to the head so that it wraps around the top of
the eyeball.
5. Attach the ears in a straight vertical line on either side of the

head so that the top of the ear lines up with the top of the
eye.

that meet in the center to form a wide V. The center point of
the mouth should be 4 rounds down from the bottom of the
eyeball. To give your Cyclops a big smile, the corners of the
mouth should be 3 sts away from the center point and 2
rounds up.
7. For Argos’s hair, cut 12 strands of Raspberry Wine yarn

roughly 3 inches in length. Attach them to each st of Round 2
on the top of the head, using a lark’s head knot: Fold the
strand of yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the
halfway point of the yarn strand through the stitch on the
head to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn
strand through the small loop, and pull them tight to knot the
strand in place. Repeat until you’ve used all the yarn. You can
leave the hair uneven or trim it all to the same length.
BARNABAS THE Ogre
Ogres get a bad reputation in most fairy tales, and they’re
oen portrayed as large, ugly, and stupid. They’re also
known for their bad habit of eating people. Barnabas wants
you to know that he is a changed Ogre. He’s taking online
classes, he’s implemented a twice-daily skincare regimen,
and he’s cut way back on his people consumption. He would
make an excellent houseguest, and he promises not to eat
you. Well, maybe just a bite. . . . Barnabas is made up of
several pieces that are crocheted in continuous rounds and
sewn together.
Materials:
• Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Foliage
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White (small
amount for teeth)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Picot (p)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Foliage.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec); rep from * 5 more times. [36
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
Arms
Make 2 in Foliage
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
Legs
Make 2
leg should be perpendicular to the foot, so when it is attached
Ears
Make 2 in Foliage
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for sewing
the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear flat so
the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and the tail
to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the ear in half
and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the ear, then
set aside.
Nose
Make 1 in Foliage
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
then set aside.
Mouth
The Ogre’s mouth is made by crocheting a circle with 2 picot teeth
and folding that circle in half before attaching it to the face.
Make 1
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
On the third st, change to White but do not cut the working
Foliage yarn.
. . . p, sc in the next st . . .
Change to Foliage; with the tail and the working yarn of the White
yarn, tie a knot and trim the yarn.
. . . sc in the next 10 st . . .
On the tenth st, change to White but do not cut the yarn.
. . . p, sc in the next st . . .
Change to Foliage; with the tail and the working yarn of the White
yarn, tie a knot and trim the yarn.
. . . sc in the next 21 sts to return to the end of the round. [36 sts
with 2 p]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail to stitch the mouth closed
and attach it to the face. Fold the circle in half so the last round
lines up, and with the teeth evenly spaced from the center,
stitch the top edge of the mouth closed. Set aside.
Assembly
of the Ogre’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The
center of the bottom of the Ogre’s body.
2. Attach the arms on either side of the body, straight out to the
sides, 1 round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the
body).
3. Place the mouth so that the teeth are on the side closest to
the face and the bottom edge of the mouth is 1 round up
from the neck. Stitch along the bottom half of the mouth
from corner to corner.
4. Stuff and attach the nose centered between the eyes so it

rests on the top of the mouth.
5. Attach the ears on the same level as the eyes, 4 sts to the
outside of the eye, so that the concave side of the ear is
facing forward.
TIBERIUS THE Ye
The Yeti is a glorious, reclusive, apelike creature that makes
its home in the snowy mountains. Sightings of Yeti are
incredibly rare, but they’ve been spoed enough times that
we know their table manners are truly abominable. It makes
sense, because most dinner guests are unwilling to make
the trek up the slopes to join them for a meal. All the pieces
that make up the Yeti are crocheted in continuous rounds
and sewn together. (With a few simple alterations—like
changing the colors to shades of brown and tan and leaving
off the horns—this paern can also be used to make the
Yeti’s distant cousin the Sasquatch.)
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White
• Caron One Pound in Pale Green
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Popcorn stitch (pc)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in White
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
the body.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Face
Make 1 in Pale Green
Make a magic ring.
Round 5: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st;
rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 6 sts, *sc in the next st,
inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 4 sts.
[30 sts]
Round 6: Sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st;
rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 9 sts, *sc in the next st,
inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 6 sts.
[36 sts]
attaching to the head. With the oval positioned so the longer
side is horizontal and the shorter side is vertical, insert 14 mm
safety eyes between Rounds 4 and 5 on either side of the face
so they line up with the magic ring. Find the center point
between the eyes and count 4 rounds down to locate where the
center of the smile should be. Take a medium strand of Black
yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by
making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V.
Set aside the face.
Horns
Make a magic ring.
sts]
sts. [8 sts]
Arms
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Pale Green.
On the last st of Round 3, change to White.
the arm. Press the top of the arm flat and stitch it closed, leaving
the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.
Feet
Make a magic ring.
Round 6: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, 5dc pc in the next
st; rep from * 3 more times; sc in the next 14 sts. [24 sts]
Assembly
1. Attach the face to the front of the head so that the bottom of
the face is 1 round up from the neck (the narrowest part of
the body) and the top of the face is 6 rounds down from the
top of the head.
2. Stuff the horns and attach them to the top of the head. The
curve of the horn should point toward the center, and the
inside edge of the base of each horn should be 4 rounds from
the center.

4. Stuff the feet, then set the Yeti body upright on a flat surface.
The heel of the foot should rest on the flat surface with the
toes straight up. Line up the foot with the body and attach it
where the last round of the foot meets the body. Repeat
these steps on the other side with second leg. The feet
should be around 5 sts apart and centered on the front of the
body.
KONRAD THE Kraken
Feared by sailors everywhere, it rises from the depths—
behold the Kraken! This many-armed mystery is one of the
most misunderstood creatures in the vast ocean. Blamed for
shipwrecks the world over, Konrad the Kraken is just looking
for somebody to hug. If you know someone who could use a
particularly strong embrace, they’d be a great companion
for this needy creature. Konrad’s body is worked in
continuous rounds until you reach the tentacles, which are
worked flat while still aached to the body. The only sewing
this ancient cephalopod requires is a small boom piece
aached underneath.
Size:
Regular Kraken: 6 inches tall x 5 inches wide
Jumbo Kraken: 12 inches tall x 10 inches wide
Materials:
Regular Kraken
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Deep Violet
Jumbo Kraken
• Bernat Blanket Yarn super bulky (100% polyester; 220 yards (201 m) / 300 g) in
Aubergine
• US M-13 (9 mm) crochet hook
• 40 mm safety eyes
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Front loop only (FLO)
• Increase (inc)
Body and Tentacles

Make 1 in Deep Violet (regular) or Aubergine (jumbo)
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
times. [48 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
Next we’ll be making the Kraken’s brow ridge by doing a series of
increases, working a few rounds, and then decreasing.
Round 23: Inc in the next 12 sts, sc in the next 12 sts. [36 sts]
Round 26: Dec in the next 12 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [24
sts]
You’ve finished the brow ridge. It’s a large bulge over where the
eyes will be.
Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 26 and 27. Place them
8 sts apart and centered under the brow ridge.
Round 30: *Sc in the FLO of the next 3 sts, inc in the FLO of the
next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]
The back loop from Round 30 will be where the bottom piece of
the Kraken is attached.
Next we’ll be making the tentacles by creating a ch and working
back across it before continuing around the body.
Round 34: *Sc in the next st, ch 21, dc in the second ch from the
hook and each st across the chain until you’re back to the body,
sc in the next st on the body, sl st in the next 4 st; rep from * 7
more times. [Makes 8 evenly spaced tentacles]
We won’t need to stuff the Kraken until it is time to assemble.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the end.
Bottom Piece
Make 1 in Deep Violet (regular) or Aubergine (jumbo)
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches
(regular Kraken) or a long tail of 20 to 22 inches (jumbo Kraken)
for attaching to the body.
Assembly

1. Begin by stuffing the body of the Kraken. Make sure the
stuffing fills out the brow ridge, and stuff up until the line that
is made by the back loops from Round 30.
2. Using a tapestry needle, sew the bottom piece of the Kraken

to the back loops from Round 30. The side of the bottom
piece that has the tail from the magic ring should go to the
inside of the body. There are 24 back loops and 24 sts on the
last round of the bottom piece, so it should line up nicely. Be
sure to add a little extra stuffing before you finish attaching.
Weave in the end.
NESSIE THE Loch Ness Monst
The existence of the Loch Ness Monster has been the
subject of hot debate since the 1930s, when news of the
reclusive reptile spread around the globe. It’s perfectly
understandable why she’s so shy—nobody likes to be called
a fake! There’s no denying that this amigurumi Nessie exists
and that she’s totally adorable. Each piece of this creature is
made in continuous rounds, and everything is sewn together
at the end.
Size: 9 inches tall x 7½ inches wide x 10 inches long
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Canal
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Neck

Make 1 in Canal
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
sts]
sts]
more time. [20 sts]
Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing the head and neck
as you work through the remaining rounds.
more time. [22 sts]
more time. [24 sts]
Muzzle
Make 1 in Canal
Make a magic ring.
Round 4: *Sc in the 2 next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 3 more
times. [16 sts]
Head Fins
Make 2 in Canal
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
Body and Tail

Make 1 in Canal
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
sts]
sts]
Begin stuffing the body and continue stuffing as you work the
remaining rounds.
sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Fins
Make 4 in Canal
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
time. [14 sts]
time. [16 sts]
time. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the fin and
attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch it closed,
then set aside.
Assembly
1. Set the body of the Loch Ness Monster so the widest part is
on a flat surface. Make sure the head and neck are stuffed
fully and attach them to the body with the eyes facing
forward; the front of the neck should sit at Round 4 of the
body.
2. Stuff the muzzle and attach it centered between the eyes so
the top edge of the muzzle is in line with the center of the
eyes.
3. Stuff and attach the head fins to the top of the head. They are
placed with the lowest part of the base 1 round up and 4 sts
to the outside of the eyes.
4. With the body still resting on the flat surface, attach the fins.
The placement of the fins is crucial to making sure that Nessie
can stand on her own. The bulk of the fin will rest on the flat
surface but the base of the fin, where it attaches to the body,
is attached about 2 sts up from the surface. The base of the
front fins should be attached to Rounds 8 to 10 of the body.
The base of the back fins should start about 8 rounds back
from the base of the front fins.
MARINA THE M maid
For as long as humans have sailed the seas, there have been
tales of beautiful half-fish, half-women swimming in the
depths. The nature of mermaids varies from place to place.
Some cultures view them as portents of imminent disaster,
whereas others view them as signs of good luck; some say
they may even grant wishes. Whatever your opinion on
mermaids, it’s no secret that the call of the sea can be
alluring. Who wouldn’t want to spend their days playing with
dolphins and collecting shiny shells? Most of the pieces that
make up Marina are crocheted in continuous rounds and
sewn together. Her seashell top is worked flat and sewn on,
and her hair is made by tying individual strands of yarn to
her head.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Robin’s Egg
• Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Garden Grows
• Caron One Pound in Light Violet
• Caron One Pound in Blue Danube
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Robin’s Egg.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
On the last st of Round 30, change to Garden Grows.
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Arms
Make 2 in Robin’s Egg
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
Tail Fins
Make 2 in Garden Grows
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
times. [18 sts]
then set aside.
Side Fins
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
then set aside.
Seashell Top
Ch 11.
Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook, hdc in the next 3 ch, sl
st in the next 2 ch, hdc in the next 4 ch, ch 1 and turn. [10 sts]
Rows 2–3: Hdc in the next 4 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, hdc in the
next 4 sts, ch 1 and turn. [2 rows @ 10 sts]
Ears
Make 2 in Robin’s Egg
Make a magic ring.
time. [6 sts]
time. [8 sts]
attaching it to the body. Press the bottom of the ear flat and
stitch it closed, then set aside.
Hair Cap
Make 1 in Blue Danube
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
attaching the hair cap to the head, and set aside.
Assembly
1. Attach the tail fins to the very bottom of the tail, facing front.
The inside corners of the fins should meet at the center
bottom of the tail. After attaching the second fin, make 2
stitches to attach the inside edges of the tail fins together
where they meet at the base of the tail.
2. Attach the small side fins on either side of the tail, 4 rounds
down from where the color change occurred between the
body and tail.
3. Place the seashell top on the Mermaid’s chest, with the

narrowest part in the center. The center of the seashell top
should rest on the fourth round down from the neck (the
thinnest round on the body). Stitch the right side of the
seashell top to the body and repeat on the left side.
4. Attach the arms to the side of the body, 1 round down from
the neck. Angle the arms slightly forward and stitch around
the top edge.
5. Take the hair cap and, with the tail at center back, pull the cap
down on the head. It should be angled slightly back so the
hair cap sits around 4 rounds above the tops of the eyes in
the front and about 5 rounds up from the neck in the back.
Use the long tail to stitch the hair cap in place.
6. Attach the ears so the bottom of each ear lines up with the
bottom of the eyes. Place the ear 2 sts to the outside of the
eye and rotate it so the tip of the ear is pointed toward the
back of the body. Stitch along the bottom edge.
7. Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds
down to locate where the center of the smile should be. Take
a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to
embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in
the center to form a wide V for the smile. The corners of the
mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and 1
round up.
8. For the hair, cut a large number of strands of Blue Danube
yarn around 18 inches long. To attach them to the hair cap,
we’ll be using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use
your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand
through a stitch on the hair cap to make a small loop. Pull the
two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, then
pull them tight to knot the strand in place. I like to attach a
strand of yarn to every stitch on the front portion of the hair
cap to create an even hairline. For the rest of the hair cap, I
attach a strand of yarn to every other stitch; this provides
great coverage but isn’t too bulky. Once you have attached
as many strands as you would like, use your fingers to comb
the hair into the desired style and trim the ends to your
desired length.
SERENA THE Hippocampus
A powerful creature of the sea, the Hippocampus has the
upper body of a horse and the lower body of a fish. These
aquatic equines are companions of Poseidon, the Greek god
of the sea, earthquakes, and, of course, horses. This regal
creature would make an excellent gi for someone in your
life who can’t decide if they like horses or mermaids more.
All the pieces that make up the Hippocampus are crocheted
in continuous rounds and sewn together. Her flowing mane
is knoed directly onto her head, and the nostrils are
embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Blue Danube
• Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Garden Grows
• Caron One Pound in Robin’s Egg
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Blue Danube.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
On the last st of Round 30, change to Garden Grows.
sts]
sts]
sts]
aside.
Snout
Make a magic ring.
Ears
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Arms
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Robin’s Egg.
On the last st of Round 5, change to Blue Danube.
Tail Fins
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]
attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch the last
round closed, then set aside.
Assembly
2. For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Robin’s Egg yarn and
use the tapestry needle to stitch two clusters of stitches, 4 sts
apart and 2 rounds tall each. Make multiple passes with the
needle to build up the nostrils.
3. Attach the ears to the top of the head, angled slightly
outward, lined up just outside of the eyes, about 4 rounds
away from the center of the top of the head.
4. Attach the tail fins to the very bottom of the tail, facing front.
The inside corners of the fins should meet at the center
bottom of the tail. After attaching the second fin, make 2
stitches to attach the inside edges of the tail fins together
where they meet at the base of the tail.
5. Attach the arms to the side of the body, 1 round down from
the neck. Angle the arms slightly forward and stitch around
the top edge.
6. For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Robin’s Egg

yarn around 18 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll
be using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use your
crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand
through a stitch on the head to make a small loop. Pull the
two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop and
pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Make a stripe 4
strands wide that goes along the center of the head, starting
4 rounds to the front of the top of the head and ending
roughly halfway down the back of the head. Once you have
attached all the strands, use your fingers to comb the mane
into the desired style and trim the ends to your desired
length.
MOIRA THE Pegacorn
Unicorns are famous for their horns and pegasi are known
for their wings, but the Pegacorn is the best of both worlds.
With wings and a horn, they spread joy and wonder across
the land and sky. Moira would do a world of good for anyone
in your life who could use a lile extra magic. All the pieces
that make up this ethereal equine are crocheted in
continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one
piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on.
The flowing mane is knoed directly onto the head, and the
nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.
Materials:
• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Soft Pink
• Caron One Pound in Yellow
• Caron One Pound in Rose
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in Soft Pink
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
sts]
sts]
Snout
Make 1 in Soft Pink
Make a magic ring.
Ears
Make 2 in Soft Pink
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Horn
Make 1 in Yellow
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
Arms
Make 2
On the last st of Round 5, change to Soft Pink.
Legs
Make 2
On last st of Round 9, change to Soft Pink.
Wings
Make 2 in Soft Pink
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
your first st.

off the yarn.
sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body.
Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops
of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then insert
your needle through the center of the last round and out near
the tip of one of the outside cones; set aside.
Assembly
2. For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use
the tapestry needle to stitch two clusters of stitches, 4 sts
apart and 2 rounds tall each. Make multiple passes with the
needle to build up the nostrils.
3. Attach the ears to the top of the head, angled slightly

outward, lined up just outside of the eyes, about 4 rounds
away from the center of the top of the head.
4. Stuff and attach the horn in the center of the forehead so the
bottom is about 4 rounds above the top of the eyes.
5. Set your Pegacorn on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set
it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it
next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in
front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of
the body. The top of the leg should be around 7 sts away
from the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other
side with second leg.
6. With the Pegacorn still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of

down, 3 sts apart, and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch
along the edge of the cone.
8. For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Rose yarn

around 18 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll be
using a lark’s head knot. Make a stripe 4 strands wide that
goes along the center of the head, starting 4 rounds to the
front of the top of the head and ending roughly halfway
down the back of the head. Once you have attached all the
strands, use your fingers to comb the mane into the desired
style and trim the ends to your desired length.
9. For the tail, cut a number of strands of Rose yarn, roughly 12

inches in length. Attach individual strands with a lark’s head
knot in a cluster at the center back bottom of the Pegacorn.
Trim the ends to your desired length.
PERCIVAL THE Griffin
Griffins are regarded as one of the most majestic magical
creatures. They have the head and talons of an eagle and
the body of a lion—a beautiful cross between the king of
birds and the king of beasts. Percival would make a worthy
gi for any lile princess or prince in your life. Most of the
pieces for this noble creature are made in continuous
rounds and sewn together. The head and body are worked
as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and
sewn on. The feather tus are worked flat and sewn on, and
the neck frill is worked directly onto the body. The talons
and claws are embroidered on with yarn.
Size: 7 inches tall x 6½ inches wide
Materials:
• Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Soft
White
• Red Heart Super Saver in Café Latte
• Red Heart Super Saver in Saffron
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Picot (p)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1
Make a magic ring in Soft White
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
times. [36 sts]
times. [42 sts]
sts]
sts]
few rounds.
sts]
sts]
the body.
times. [18 sts]
Round 23: Sc into the BLO of each st around. [24 sts]
The front loops from Round 23 will be used to add the neck frill.
Before continuing the body, we’ll be adding the neck frill to the
front loops from Round 23. Pull the working loop of the Café
Latte yarn wide so that you don’t accidentally undo any stitches
on the body.
Neck Frill
Insert your hook into the first front loop of Round 23 and pick up
the Soft White yarn and pull it through, leaving a short tail similar
to a color change tail.
Ch 1 to secure the yarn in place.
Round 1: Sc in the same space as the ch 1, make a picot: Ch 3 and
make a sl st in the back bump of the third chain from the hook . .
.
We’re now going to continue making picots around the neck to
give it a jagged, feathery look.
. . . *sc in the next 2 sts, p; rep from * 10 more times, sc in the next
st. [24 sc with 12 p]
You’ve now made it back to the beginning of the round. Fasten off
the yarn, leaving a short tail and weave in the ends.
Continue with the Body.

Insert your hook into the working loop of the Café Latte yarn and
pull the working yarn snug.
sts]
sts]
Beak
Make 1 in Saffron
Make a magic ring.
sts]
sts. [8 sts]
times. [12 sts]
attaching it to the head, then set aside.
Feather Tufts
Ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in the next st, hdc in the next
2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts. [6 sts]
Arms
Make 2
Make a magic ring in Saffron.
Legs
Make 2
Wings
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
your first st.
off the yarn.
sts]
sts]
close the wing, then insert your yarn needle through the center
of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside
cones; set aside.
Assembly
1. Stuff and attach the beak, centered in between the eyes, so

the top edge lines up with the center of the eyes. The tip of
the beak should be pointing down.
2. Attach the feather tufts to the top of the head so the inside
edge of each tuft is around Round 3 of the head and the tufts
are pointing toward the back. Stitch along the bottom edge
of each tuft.
3. Set your Griffin on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on
the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to
the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of
the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the
the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side
with second leg.
4. With the Griffin still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the
arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in

between the base of the body and the neck frill, 3 sts apart,
and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of
the cone.
6. For the talons on the arms, take a medium strand of Soft

White yarn and embroider 3 vertical lines, 2 rounds long, at
the bottom of the arm. The middle talon should be in the
center and the other 2 talons should be 1 st away on either
side. Repeat these steps on the other arm.
7. For the claws on the legs, take a medium strand of Soft White
yarn and embroider 3 vertical lines spanning Rounds 4 to 6 of
the foot. The middle claw should be centered on the top of
the foot and the other 2 claws should be 1 st away on either
side. Repeat these steps on the other leg.
8. For the tail, cut 6 strands of Café Latte at around 25 to 30

inches. Use your hook to pull the strands halfway through the
stitches at the center back bottom. Divide the strands into 3
groups of 4 and braid them to the desired length, roughly 1½
inches. Secure the braid with a knot and trim the excess
strands to leave a 1-inch fringe.
JOAQUIN THE Phoen
The Phoenix is a beloved magical creature that symbolizes
rebirth. It lives its life in a blaze of glory until consumed by
its own flames, then it rises once again from the ashes.
Joaquin is a Phoenix in the prime of his life, burning brightly
across the sky; some would even say he’s a star. He would
make a great gi for someone who’s about to start a new
chapter in their life. His head, neck, and body are worked as
one piece in continuous rounds, and his beak and tail
feathers are also worked in continuous rounds and are sewn
on. His feet and head feathers are worked flat before they’re
sewn on. The wings are constructed by making three
separate pieces and crocheting them together.
Size: 8 inches tall x 8 inches at wingspan
Materials:
• Red Heart Super Saver Ombre worsted (100% acrylic; 482 yards (441 m) / 283 g) in
Hot Sauce
• Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Saffron
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Increase (inc)
Head and Body

Make 1 in Hot Sauce
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
sts]
sts]
more time. [20 sts]
Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing the head and neck
as you go.
more time. [22 sts]
more time. [24 sts]
sts]
sts]
Continue stuffing the head and body as you work the next few
rounds.
sts]
sts]
aside.
Head Feathers
Make 2 in Hot Sauce
Ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next st, hdc in
the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc in the
next 2 sts. [12 sts]
Beak
Make 1 in Saffron
Make a magic ring.
sts]
sts. [8 sts]
times. [12 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head
and set aside.
Wings
Make 2
crocheted together.
Cones 1 and 2
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
marker in the very last sc you did in Round 3. When it comes
your first st.

off the yarn.
On the last st of Round 3, change to Hot Sauce.
sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Use a tapestry needle to
tail tight to close the wing and weave in the end (we will be
attaching the wing to the body with Saffron yarn, so we will not
need this tail), then set aside.
Feet
Make 2 in Saffron
The feet are made by crocheting a small circle and adding toes
that are worked flat but still attached to the circle.
Make a magic ring.
Round 2: *Ch 3, sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next
ch, sl st in the next st on the circle; rep from * 1 more time; sl st in
the next 2 sts, ch 3, sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the
next ch, sl st in the next st on the circle. [You should have a small
foot with 2 toes on one side and 1 toe on the other side.]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching it to the
Small Tail Feathers

Make 2
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the tail
feather and attaching it to the body. Press the feather flat and
stitch the last round closed, then set aside.
Large Tail Feather

Make 1
time. [8 sts]
time. [10 sts]
time. [12 sts]
times. [18 sts]
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the tail
feather and attaching it to the body. Press the feather flat and
stitch the last round closed, then set aside.
Assembly
1. Stuff and attach the beak, placing it in the center of the face
so that the top edge of the beak is on the same round as the
bottom edge of the eyes, with the curve of the beak pointing
down.
2. Attach the head feathers to the top of the head, 2 rounds

away from the center point so that the bulk of the feathers
hang off the back of the Phoenix’s head.
3. Taking a medium strand of Saffron yarn, attach the wings to

either side of the body. You’ll be attaching the wing along
only the outer edge of one of the Saffron cones on the side of
the wing. The wing should be placed so the top of the Saffron
cone is where the neck (the narrowest point) of the Phoenix
begins to expand into the body.
4. Turn your Phoenix upside down so you’re looking at the

underside of the body. The feet will be placed on the front
half of the underside of the body, so that the 2-toed side
faces front. You’ll want to stitch around only the circle portion
of the foot, leaving the toes free. Make a stitch in between the
2 front toes, then weave in the ends.
5. Attach the two smaller tail feathers about 6 rounds up from

the last round of the body, directly next to each other so that
they meet at the center of the back.
6. Attach the large tail feather 1 round up from the smaller tail
feathers and centered between them.
GALE AND IRIS THE Cloud Spr es
Magical creatures are responsible for most of the things we
consider to be natural phenomena, and the weather is no
different! If you’ve ever lain in the grass and seen a face
looking down at you from the clouds, you’ve had the great
fortune of spoing a Cloud Sprite in its natural habitat. I
suggest making one of these sprites to keep in your home,
where you can speak to them when you want to make sure
the weather cooperates with your plans. The head, body,
and arms are made in continuous rounds and sewn together,
and the scarf is made flat and aached.
Size: 7 inches tall x 5½ inches wide
Materials:
Iris the Rainbow Cloud Sprite

• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White
• Caron One Pound in Light Pink
• Caron One Pound in Peach
• Caron One Pound in Cream
• Caron One Pound in Pale Green
• Caron One Pound in Sky Blue
• Caron One Pound in Lilac
Gale the Stormy Cloud Sprite

• Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Medium Gray
Mix
• Caron One Pound in Sky Blue
• Caron One Pound in Royalty
• Caron One Pound in Yellow
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
Stitches Used:
• Magic ring
• Chain (ch)
• Increase (inc)
Cloud Head
Make 1 in either White or Medium Gray Mix
Make a magic ring.
times. [18 sts]
times. [24 sts]
times. [30 sts]
We’ll now begin the cloud shaping using decreases and increases.
Round 10: Sc in the next st, dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the
next 17 sts. [24 sts]
Round 11: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next 17
sts. [30 sts]
from * 5 more times; sc in the next 17 sts. [36 sts]
We’ll now do the same shaping, but in reverse order, so the top of
the cloud head is symmetrical. Because we’re crocheting in a
spiral, the stitches have shifted a bit, so look out for the extra st
at the beginning of the round that will help keep everything in
line.
Round 18: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5
more times; sc in the next 16 sts. [30 sts]
Round 19: Sc in the next 2 sts, dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in
the next 16 sts. [24 sts]
Round 20: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next
16 sts. [30 sts]
The shaping we did created 2 small creases in the top of the cloud
head. Locate the deepest part of the crease and insert 14 mm
safety eyes 1 st down and 1 round to the outside of this crease.
sts]
Begin stuffing the cloud head and continue stuffing as you work
the next few rounds.
sts]
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a small tail of 6 to 8 inches. Add any
extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail
close the cloud head and weave in the end, then set aside.
Legs and Body

Make 2 legs in either White or Medium Gray Mix
Make 1 body in either White or Medium Gray Mix
We’ll be working our way from the legs up for this part of the
pattern, crocheting 2 separate legs and connecting them to
form the body.
Leg 1
Make a magic ring.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. (This tail will be used
when you connect the legs to form the body). Insert a
removable stitch marker into the last st from Round 5; this is
where you will make your first st when it’s time to connect the
legs. Set leg 1 aside.
Leg 2 and the Body

For leg 2, repeat the steps for leg 1 but do not fasten off the yarn.
Now that you have 2 separate legs, we need to join them together.
Begin your round on leg 2.
Round 6: Sc in the next 6 st . . .
Pick up leg 1 and make your next st where you placed the
. . . sc in the next 12 sts . . .
You should now be back to the place where leg 1 and leg 2 are
joined; finish the round on leg 2.
. . . sc in the next 6 sts. [24 sts]
Round 7: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]
Before we continue to the body, there’s one final step to joining
the legs: You should notice that there is a small gap in between
the legs. Take your tapestry needle and the medium tail that
was left on leg 1 and stitch the gap closed, then secure the tail
with a knot and trim the excess.
Back to the Body.

sts]
sts]
attaching the body to the cloud head, and set aside.
Arms
Make 2 in either White or Medium Gray Mix
Make a magic ring.
time. [8 sts]
the arm. Then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through
the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the
arm but do not trim the tail; set aside.
Rainbow Scarf
Make 1
Ch 41 in Light Pink.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. [40
sts]
On the last st of Row 1, change to Peach, ch 1 and turn.
On the last st of Row 2, change to Cream, ch 1 and turn.
On the last st of Row 3, change to Pale Green, ch 1 and turn.
On the last st of Row 4, change to Sky Blue, ch 1 and turn.
On the last st of Row 5, change to Lilac, ch 1 and turn.
Fasten off the Lilac yarn, leaving a short tail. Trim all the other
colors of yarn, leaving short tails; these will become part of the
fringe.
Rainbow Scarf Fringe

Cut 4 strands of each color of yarn, roughly 3 inches in length.
Attach 2 of the strands to the corresponding color on each end
of the scarf, using a lark’s head knot: Fold the strand of yarn in
half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the
yarn strand through the edge of the scarf to make a small loop.
Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop,
then pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Repeat with all
the colors, then trim the fringe to the desired length.
Lightning and Rain Scarf

Make 1
Scarf
Ch 41 in Sky Blue.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. [40
sts]
On the last st of Row 1, change to Royalty, ch 1 and turn.
On the last st of Row 3, change to Royalty, ch 1 and turn.
Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Weave in all the loose ends
from the color changes before attaching the lightning bolt.
Lightning Bolt
Make 1 in Yellow
The lightning bolt is made by chaining at the end of certain rows
and not working all the way back to the beginning of the row,
making a zigzag.
Ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 2 ch, ch 3
and turn. [3 sts]
Row 2: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in
the next st, ch 1 and turn. [3 sts]
Row 3: Sc in the next 3 sts, ch 3 and turn. [3 sts]
Row 4: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in
the next st. [3 sts]
scarf. Use a tapestry needle to stitch the lightning bolt on one
end of the scarf and set aside.
Assembly
1. Stuff the body and legs fully before attaching to the cloud
head at the center bottom.
2. Attach the arms on either side of the body, 2 rounds down
from where the body meets the head. Angle the arms so they
point slightly forward.
3. Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds
down to locate where the center of the smile should be and 3
rounds down for the center of where the frown should be.
Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry
that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile or
upside-down V for the frown.

needle to embroider the grumpy eyebrows for the Stormy
Cloud Sprite. The eyebrow is a diagonal line that spans 2
rounds. The outside of the eyebrows should be around 3 sts
up from the center of the eye and in line with the inside edge
of the eye.
5. If you’d like to attach your scarf to your Cloud Sprite, choose

which side of the scarf you want in front and place it so the
bottom of the scarf lines up with where the legs meet the
body. Then wrap the scarf up over the shoulder, around the
back of the neck, around the front of the body, and back over
the shoulder. If you’d like to tack it down, take a medium
strand of yarn in the color of the edge of the scarf that is
closest to the center of the body and use a tapestry needle
to make 1 or 2 small stitches connecting the scarf to the
body. Repeat the process on the back of the body and weave
in the ends.
Reso ces
Amigurumi Patterns
Ribblr (Ribblr.com) is a fairly new pattern platform for crochet,
knitting, and more. It is focused on eco-friendly and interactive
patterns.
Amigurumi.com (Amigurumi.com) is one of the more widely known

websites for amigurumi patterns, both free and paid. If you want
to make it, there’s probably a pattern for it here.
Brick-and-Mortar Shops
If you’re like me and enjoy squishing your yarn and seeing it in
person before committing to it, you can’t go wrong with either
Michaels Craft Stores or JoAnn Fabric and Craft Stores. Both offer
a large selection of top-name yarn brands as well as hooks and
notions.
Hooks
Clover’s (Clover-USA.com ) ergonomic hooks are truly exceptional
when it comes to comfort. They also carry a ton of crochet
gadgets and accessories to try out.
Yarn
Herrschners (Herrschners.com) and Ben Franklin
(BenFranklinOnline.com) are excellent websites for ordering yarn
online. They have a wide variety at multiple price points, including
most major brands as well as some types of yarn not found in
brick-and-mortar shops.
Gloss y
[ . . .] Used at the end of a pattern line to indicate the total number of stitches in
that round or row.
* Generally, used to mark the beginning of a repetition of instructions. The

pattern will indicate to repeat from *.
back loop Located on a stitch’s head, the back of the V-like horizontal bar. Working in
these loops is indicated by “back loop only” or the abbreviation “BLO.”
chain A basic, foundational stitch for crochet. Abbreviated “ch.”
decrease When two single crochet stitches are worked together. Abbreviated "dec."
fasten off When the yarn is cut, leaving a long tail, at the end of a project or section of
a project. The long tail is then pulled through the last stitch to prevent
unraveling. (This tail is often then threaded onto a tapestry needle for
weaving in the ends.)
front loop Located on a stitch’s head, the front of the V-like horizontal bar. Working in
these loops is indicated by “front loop only” or the abbreviation “FLO.”
gauge The number of stitches and rows per inch (cm) required to obtain the
desired final measurements.
increase When two single crochet stitches are worked into the same stitch.
Abbreviated "inc."
join yarn Incorporating a new yarn (including a new color) into a project. Patterns will
identify how to join yarn, which is normally by slip stitch.
last round The round immediately preceding the round currently being worked.
next round The round immediately following the round last worked.
repeat Repeat instructions as indicated by the pattern. Abbreviated “rep.”
right side The front, or more presentable, side of a crocheted fabric. Abbreviated “RS.”
The phrase “with RS facing” can mean that a piece should be held with the
right side facing you or that the right sides of two pieces should be placed
against each other.
round A sequence of stitches worked around the edge of a circle (or in the round).
Abbreviated “round” or “rounds” (plural).
row A horizontal sequence of stitches.
seam The process of joining crocheted pieces together using a tapestry needle
or other method.
stitch marker A small tool that can be placed on a live loop to prevent unraveling or on
the crocheted fabric to identify a certain section of the work. For
crocheting, you can only use stitch markers that are split or have a built-in
clasp so they are removable.
swatch A crocheted sample following the indicated stitch pattern, often used to
determine gauge.
tail end A loose strand of yarn, the bit hanging from the starting slip knot or from
the final fasten off.
turn Often seen at the end of a pattern row instruction, referring to flipping a
project to then work back across the row from the other side (either the
wrong side or the right side).
turning chain Any number of chains used at the start of a new row or round.
weave in ends Process of securing any loose ends by weaving them into the crocheted
fabric for a clean final result.
working end The strand of yarn being worked into the crocheted fabric (the non-loose
end).
working yarn The yarn used to work the crochet project.
wrong side The back, or less presentable, side of a crocheted fabric. Abbreviated “WS.”
yarn over The act of draping yarn over the crochet hook so it nestles in the throat of
the hook.
Acknowledgments
The number of people I need to thank could fill a second book, so I
will try to keep this short.
Thank you to the crochet community as a whole—you are the
reason I’m inspired to create. Thank you to everyone at Callisto
Media, especially my editor, Georgia.
Thank you to Jen Joyce for starting me on this path and to
Shan for her hand-holding. To my Brochet Boys, Jon and Zac, for
being so inspirational. To Peggy, without whom I might never make
a decision.
To my parents, Denny and Liz: “Thank you” doesn’t seem like
enough. Thank you to my brother, Steven, and his family, and to
the family and friends who have encouraged me to live
authentically and chase after my dreams.
Lastly, I would like to thank Billy for not destroying any of my
amigurumi, even though I’m sure they look like very fun dog toys.
About the Author
Drew Hill is an amigurumi designer and fiber arts
enthusiast. He learned to knit at the age of 10 and
has been passionate about yarn ever since. At 17,
Drew picked up a crochet hook for the first time
and has rarely put it down since. After years of
crocheting as a hobby, he decided to take things
to the next level and opened Drewbie’s Zoo to sell
finished amigurumi as well as offer both free and
premium patterns.
A graduate of the University of Michigan with a BFA in theater
design and production, Drew has worked as a costume designer
and has found ways to sneak his fiber crafts into most
productions. These days he spends his time in his craft dungeon,
experimenting with new patterns. When he’s not working, Drew
enjoys playing with his golden retriever, Billy, and eating delicious
vegan food.
Website: DrewbiesZoo.com
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Hill Drew - Crochet Magical Creatures - 2022

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Hill Drew - Crochet Magical Creatures - 2022

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Copyright © 2022 by Rockridge Press

First Rockridge Press trade paperback edition July 2022

Paperback ISBN: 978-1-63807-806-7

Manufactured in the United States of America

Interior and Cover Designer: Jennifer Hsu

Photography © 2022 Evi Abeler

Billy: the magical creatures in my life,

both past and present.

P t One: THE MAGICAL WORLD OF AMIGURUMI

About the Author

Create an Easy Crochet Tool K

CROCHET HOOK SIZE

Although some crochet projects can eat up a lot of yarn, the

Scissors: You’ll need a good pair of scissors for trimming yarn

Tapestry needle: A tapestry or darning needle is slightly larger

Stitch markers: Removable stitch markers are one of the best

Project bag: This is a must-have if you like to craft on the go. A

The world of amigurumi is getting more magical each day,

chain (ch) chain (ch)

stitch (st) stitch (st)

slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (ss)

single crochet (sc) double crochet (dc)

half double crochet (hdc) half treble crochet (htc)

double crochet (dc) treble crochet (tc)

single crochet decrease (sc2tog) double crochet decrease (dc2tog)

Essen al Amig umi S ches

Step 4: Chain 1 to secure the ring.

CHAIN STITCH (CH)

SINGLE CROCHET (SC)

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)

DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)

Step 5: Finished double crochet.

SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

Step 1: Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO)

POPCORN STITCH (PC)

LEARN THE LINGO

Round: The patterns in this book are all worked in continuous

Asterisks: Sometimes there will be a set of instructions that

Brackets: At the end of each round, the total number of stitches

Working yarn vs. tail: Working yarn is what is connected to the

Changing yarn colors is one of the quickest ways to

STUFFING, FASTENING OFF, AND CLOSING UP

LIMBS AND TAILS

FANGS AND FACES

MANES, FUR, AND FLOWING LOCKS

One of the simplest things you can do to drastically alter the

Prac cing and P sona zing

Crea ng Crochet Magic

Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

5. Attach the belly piece, centering it on the body.

Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Head and Body

Arms and Legs

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1. Stuﬀ and attach the horn. It should be placed in the center of

3. Take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use a tapestry needle

4. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry

5. Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the

8. Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway

Size: 8 inches tall x 6 inches wide