Knitting

Knitting is a process of fabric forming by intermeshing of loops of yarns.

Recommendable points of a buyer:

 Dia of the fabric

 Design of the fabric

 GSM of the fabric

 Yarn count

 Types of yarn

 Color of the fabric

Important yarn quality parameters for knitting

 High work of rupture value.

 Proper evenness

 breaking elongation should be more than 5

 Good resiliency

 Reasonable tenacity and loop strength

 Smooth and low frictional yarn properties.

 Resistance to fatigue due to cyclic stress and strain.

Forms of knitting

there are two forms of knitting. they are-

1. weft knitting
2. warp knitting.

1. Weft knitting

Weft knitting is a method of fabric forming in which the loops are made in horizontal
way.

fig: Weft knitting

2. Warp knitting

Warp knitting is a method of fabric forming in which the loops are made in vertical
way.

fig: warp knitting

 Knitting terms
Face loop

During loop formation, when the new loop emerges through the old loop from back
to the face side, it is called face loop

Back loop

If the new loop passes from the face side to the back side of old loop, it is called
back loop or weft purl loop.

Gauge

It refers to the number of needles per inch of a knitting m/c.

Single jersey

Weft knitted fabrics produced by one set of needles are called single jersey.

Double jersey

Weft knitted fabrics produced by two sets of needles mounted in two needle beds
are called double jersey.

Basic knitting elements

There are three basic knitting elements. they are-

1. Needle
2. Cam
3. Sinker

1. Needles:

Needles are the most important stitch forming elements. There are 3 types of needles
namely:

1. Latch needle

2. Spring bearded needle

3. Compound needle
Latch needle:

It consists of a hook portion at top. Latch needles are given sliding movements in
individual tricks of the cylinder.

Spring bearded needle:

It is rarely used now-a-days. This needle consists of a top hook curved downwards.
Presser is required to close the needle.
Compound needle:

It is the most modern needle. It consists of a hollow steel tube in which a hook-closing
element is inserted. Yarn strain is minimum and productivity is high.

Loop forming sequence of a latch needle

In the run-in position, the held old loop rests on the top of the open latch. Clearing
occurs as the held loop slips of the latch and on to the stem as the needle moves
upwards. By a downward movement the needle hook catches a new piece of yarn. This
is known as feeding. As the needle continues the downward movement the latch is
forced to close by the influence of the held loop. Following Knock over loop pulling
occurs and a knit loop is formed. The needle returns to the run-in position to complete
the cycle.
Loop forming sequence of a compound needle

The held loop is shown on the needle in the run-in position. The hook and tongue
elements move upwards so that the hook can catch a new yarn and feeding occurs.
Both hook and tongue descends but at different velocities. So the hook is closed by the
tongue. Following Knock over loop pulling occurs and a knit loop is formed. The hook
and tongue moves up at different velocities. The needle returns to the run-in position to
complete the cycle.

Sinker

Sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with action at right
angle to and fro between adjoining needles. It performs the following functions:

1. Loop formation

2. Holding down
Operation of sinker

1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves
forward and the needle moves upward for clearing.

2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing
position.

3. Needle catches yarn and sinker starts to go backward.

4. Loop pulling occurs

5. Before the needle ascends the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a
little and hold the old loop.

Cylinder

Cylinder is a steel circular bed having tricks on its outer periphery into which needles
are mounted.

Dial

Dial is the upper steel needle bed used in double knit machines. Into the grooves of the
dial, the needles are mounted horizontally and are moved by dial cams.

Cam

The knitting cams are hardened steels and a track for butt can be arranged. The figure
shows the simplest cam design.