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Instructionsf16 7
Instructionsf16 7
Instructionsf16 7
I glassed the bottom with very light cloth and epoxy. Make sure the cloth is all the
way up to the front because that is where it will rip of the 3mm skin on a rough
landing. The glassing added only 5 grams but a lot of protection.
Glue the taileron hinge blocks in place with 5 min epoxy. Push in hinge block untill it’s
flush with the former. Slide block inboard to get a small gap between root and
fuselage, but make sure that the tip can not get jammed against the fuselage when
you simulate airloads.
Install plywood tip protector. This protects the tip and increases the clearence
between the taileron tip and the ground. Install balsa sidewinder rails.
Cut 1 mm plywood firewall and glue with 5 min epoxy. Laminate some 6 mm depron
pieces and create the “air brakes”
Cut aft hatch monoque to size. Install dowels in front and rear of hatch. Squeeze
hatch a bit to be able to install it between the two pieces 11G.
Cut the nozzle pieces (3mm skin and 6 mm fromer). Preform the 3 mm. Trial fit to
create a circle. Use a piece of tape to make it easier. Butt glue the skin when
satisfied.
Bevel side of former so it fits nicely in the cone. Glue former. Cut nozzle to desired
length (use aft side because that will not be straight). Make two holes that will
coincide with two holes in the firewall, and install two pieces of pushrod so depron
isn’t squashed when you tighten the screw. A third hole in the bottom will accept the
hatchdowel. Score lines from front to rear to simulate the adjustable exhaust. So the
procedure will be:install motor, install hatch, install exhaust nozzle and install
propellor.
Install radio equipment. Make sure you get the C of G in the right place. Too far aft
and it will become very difficult to control. The paintjob added 20 gram and I was
shocked by that, I thought that’s not possible but after reading other articles I found
out that paint is heavy. (but it makes it look so good)