Professional Documents
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Selbu Mittens - Anne Bardsgard
Selbu Mittens - Anne Bardsgard
SELBU MITTENS
Discover the Rich History of a Norwegian Knitting Tradition
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First published in the United States of America
in 2019 by
Trafalgar Square Books
North Pomfret, Vermont 05053
Trondheim, Norway
English translation © 2019 Trafalgar Square Books
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, by any means,
without written permission of the publisher, except by a reviewer quoting
brief excerpts for a review in a magazine, newspaper or web site.
The instructions and material lists in this book were carefully reviewed by
the author and editor; however, accuracy cannot be guaranteed. The author
and publisher cannot be held liable for errors.
ISBN: 978-1-57076-947-4
Library of Congress Control Number: 2019946787
This translation has been published with the financial support of NORLA.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
THE HISTORY OF SELBU KNITTING BY BIRGITTA ODÉN
WHAT CHARACTERIZES A SELBU MITTEN?
The Cuff
The Back of the Hand (Front or Top Side)
Palm
Side Bands
Thumb
The Tip of the Mitten Hand
Glove Fingers
KNITTING TECHNIQUES AND STANDARDS
Casting On—Two Typical Cast-On Methods
YARN AND WOOL
PATTERN MOTIFS USED IN SELBU
Primary Mitten Motifs
Panels
Side Bands
Palm and Inner Hand Motifs
MITTEN PATTERNS FROM EXCEPTIONAL KNITTERS
Christening Mittens/Baby Mittens
Gloves
Men’s Mittens
Women’s Mittens
RESOURCES
MITTEN REFERENCES
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DIALECT WORDS
binding knitted item
bindstikke knitting needle
bitt to knit
bitt lørji to knit loosely and unevenly
dråk girl
fell tå bind off (UK cast off)
fuggel bird
goffa godfather
gullmo godmother
hainnarbe handwork
hussu stocking or hose of any type
hælvvori good at knitting
dyktag te å bitt
kast på cast on
kjinntyrill butter churn pole
kvennstein millstone
lørji bundi loose/bad knitting
moddernevotta modern mittens knitted with dyed yarn
målde stitch
måldenn datt bound-off stitches
tå
oppsuttu meeting inside a house during the evening and night
where one sat with a collective work—for example, two-
color stranded knitting for a bride-to-be
rosbok pattern book
rosemønster the main pattern on a mitten
rosåt patterned
semmert bundi bad knitting
søm for votten to seam and weave in ends on a mitten
sjenn star
sjennros star-rose/eight-petal rose
snar på quick knitting
stikkenj
stælpe/stø band on the sides of a mitten
totrådvott Selbu mitten
tuftå elf or underworld creature
tå i hop decrease
tå ut increase
tåmmåsfinger thumb
vekk ribbing, cuff
vottros patterning on the back of the hand (front) of mittens
vottsentralen Handcraft Association headquarters
The primary motifs in Selbu knitting are stars and roses, both called
sjennros in Norwegian. The choice of which term to use in translation was
determined by the shape of the motif under discussion.
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PREFACE
My godmother was named Inga Rolseth (1909-98), but was better-known as
Inga Bakklien. She was skilled at making good food as well as nice, warm
bedclothes, and at chopping wood, raising hens, and doing handwork
(hainnarbe). Every year meant new stranded colorwork mittens for
Christmas, usually modern mittens in blue and white, and then black and
white mittens when I was older. Every year, Inga delivered her mittens to
the Mitten Headquarters.* When she died, her last inventory showed that, in
February and March 1996, she had delivered 14 pairs of women’s mittens,
15 pairs of men’s mittens, and one pair of children’s mittens. When the
price for the yarn was deducted, she’d earned a net sum of 951 crowns—for
work she had, at a minimum, spent 14 days on. That’s how she made her
income; together with a minimal pension and the money she made from the
chickens, it was enough to give my godmother a good and secure life.
__________
* Selbu Husflidsentral.
The daily pattern of Inga’s life was in no way special. Many people in the
Selbu area have a great-grandmother or great-aunt who was skilled with her
knitting needles, usually residents of the village. Inga’s story would have
been familiar to many women who had to find ways to pull together a living
for them and theirs. But together Inga and other knitters in Selbu, with their
hard work and their creativity, their ingenuity and their love of knitting,
made something very special indeed: a pattern tradition that would stand the
test of time—not to mention a rock-solid trademark and valued export, a
product now recognized far outside Selbu and far outside Norway.
Godmother Inga died, leaving a bag of finished mittens behind. Ten
years after her death, many of the mittens have been given away, cherished,
and worn (and worn out). There was no easy way for me to teach myself
how to knit two-color stranded knitting, no one to ask. I began to collect
patterns, and scrutinized the knitting exhibitions at the Selbu
Bydgemuseum. I found many lovely and unusual mittens there, but my
curiosity was awakened when I couldn’t find any of the patterns I
remembered from the mittens I’d been given by Inga. What had happened
to those designs? Where had the ones represented in the knitting exhibitions
come from?
So many times, Inga said, “These patterns should have been written in a
book.” This is the book I couldn’t find when I first wanted to learn to knit
Selbu mittens and compose my own collection of pattern motifs. I decided
to take three years and immerse myself in Selbu mittens, so I could collect
as many as possible and produce the book both Godmother Inga and I
wanted.
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INTRODUCTION
As a child, I often went skiing at Hersjøhytta in Selbu. I remember that my
mother, who was Danish, was excited by the sight of all the mittens drying
on the hooks in the hallway. I remember noticing the endless multitude of
small and large motifs. Years later, as an adult, I wanted to buy a pair of
Selbu mittens at Husfliden and I was surprised at the sparse selection—
almost all the mittens were alike. What had happened to all the motifs?
The purpose of this project has been to recover and expand on the
pattern diversity I remember from my childhood in the 1970s. From the
beginning, the goal was to make a mitten collection that could complete the
knitting exhibit at the Selbu Bygdemuseum. At first, I thought one hundred
different patterns was a suitable goal; but after the first year, I understood
how much more there was to find, and I decided to write this book, which
might be thought of as a memory book meant to hold as many of the
original Selbu patterns as possible.
To start this project, I began with documentation. Mittens were
photographed, first from private collections and later in the Selbu
Bygdemuseum and other museums with mittens in their collections. I also
researched the DigitaltMuseum (Digital Museum) and the patterns of the
Selbu mittens I found there were recorded. In addition, it was important to
collect mitten instructions and star/rose patterns, the main element found on
Selbu mittens.
The term “Selbu mittens” is a national concept, and to a large extent is
applied to all mittens worked in pattern knitting with two colors—two-color
stranded knitting can be found throughout Norway. Mittens with the sewn-
in quality trademark label “Original Selbu” do not necessarily come from
Selbu, a factor that made the task of collecting materials decidedly
complicated. For example, Midtre Gauldal, a neighboring municipality, was
a large producer of Selbu-style goods. Old brand labels from Hovin show
extensive production and tagging of hand-knitted goods from other places
where fine Selbu-style mittens were also made.
Old rolls of labels from Hovin
Last but not least, we must discuss Annichen Sibbern Bøhn’s book
Norwegian Knitting Designs (1965, original Norwegian edition 1943).
Bøhn was a pioneer in the labor of recording traditional designs, and she
collected many patterns, particularly from Setesdal and Selbu. The first
mitten in her collection is “A Man’s Mitten from Selbu.” However, this
pattern was little known in Selbu, and has only been found since as a copy
or reprint from this book; it is unlikely that this mitten is originally from
Selbu. A review of the photos in the DigitaltMuseum shows that there are
several such mittens: the whole mitten has a background pattern with a
large animal (or some other motif), initals on the back of the hand, and the
date on the palm. The mitten pictured in Bøhn’s book is registered in the
DigitaltMuseum with an unknown place of origin. Three of the similar
mittens are from Oppland,* and one is from Møre and Romsdal—so it
looks like Annichen Sibbern Bøhn has given Selbu credit for knitting in
other regions.
__________
* Gausdal (1897), Lesja (1909) as well as similar mitten compositions in registered patterns
from Våga, in an old pattern collection at Selbu Bygdemuseum.
In the 1980s, Selbu Husflid was given a mission from Anne Petrine
(Annepett) Sandvik, the museum manager, to collect patterns in the various
villages of Selbu. At that time, Husflid was organized such that each village
had a member in the management team, and this collection work was led by
them. Ingeborg Negård Røsset, Solveig Borseth, and others worked
diligently to copy patterns from various knitters in the district. This work
has been preserved in traditional pattern notebooks (rosbøker), some in
private ownership, some at the Selbu Bygdemuseum.
In conversations, Annepett Sandvik and Solveig Borseth related how
the patterns had traveled and that many of the same patterns could be found
throughout Selbu. Likewise, many knitted the same mitten motifs. I chose,
when possible, to record the names of the knitters connected with the
various patterns. The knitters could have developed those motifs
themselves, but we can’t be one hundred percent certain. What is certain is
that these were the stars/roses they knitted most often, and that Husflid’s
collectors have not registered this type of pattern knitted by others.
There are many who are interested in Selbu knitting. For an artist and
handcrafter, it is a natural choice to focus on the artistic and handcrafting
side of Selbu knitting. The knowledge of hand-knitting has traditionally
been transmitted orally and with the help of drawings and knitted
demonstrations. I have been preoccupied with bringing this subject to a
wider audience. Selbu knitting has been and still is a profession, and it has
been essential to collect some of the great technical knowledge involved,
which extends beyond the basic fundamentals of knitting. It is also
important to take care with terminology relating to Selbu knitting.
Early on, it was clear that this work would result in both a book and a
collection of replicas. The collection could be shown in exhibitions and
then donated to the Selbu Bygdemuseum. In consultation with several of
my sources and knitters, I chose to take the opportunity to show the breadth
of the collection pattern materials from Selbu. Part of the purpose of this
book is to portray as many Selbu mitten stars/roses as possible, rather than
to provide completely draw-out pattern instructions. When there are
photographs of the original mittens, it is noted in the text.
In addition, I have taken care to obtain names and technical terms for
patterns and knitting from Selbu residents. It is my hope that this can serve
as a practical and user-friendly pattern collection, a big rosbok for mitten
knitters for many years to come.
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I owe a huge thank-you to the Selbu Bygdemuseum’s regional conservator
for Selbu, Birgitta Odén. A book such as this must address knitting history.
A thousand thanks, Birgitta, because you took on the immense task of
summarizing information for this important chapter!
Equally huge thanks go to the teacher, knitter, and museum guide at the
Selbu Bygdemuseum, Solveig Borseth. It was clear that we shared the same
dream. Thank you for contributing everything from contacts in your local
network and information about opening times to coffee making, background
materials for the book, and your proofreading skills—in addition to your
amazing knitting capacity! You met me with open arms, and together we
arranged the registration days where people in the district came with pattern
books and mittens for registration. Several hundred pairs of mittens are now
photographed and saved for the future.
Birgitta Odén.
Solveig Borseth.
A big thanks also to the Selbu and Tydal History Association members
Bjørg Kulseth and Guri Randi Fuglem! They have been my foremost
detectives. They found photographs, information about knitters, wearers of
old mittens, and items connected to knitting, and they helped me all along
the way to follow the long thread from the beginnings of knitting history up
to today. Everything they have contributed has been thorough and factual.
Everyone was a delight to work with.
Ann-Mari Aas.
Marit Renå.
Joril Solli.
A special thanks to all the Selbu residents who came and registered their
knitted garments. Thank you for letting me see and reproduce your mittens!
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The history of Selbu knitting
BIRGITTA ODÉN
The kitchen at Håggabakken, 7 April 1934. Guru Hårstad (1888-
1969), with her ten-year-old daughter Gunhild (born 1924;
married name Gjønnes). This photo graced the front page of the
magazine Urd in 1934.
Selbu is in the county of South-Trøndelag, Norway, about 43 miles / 69
kilometers east of Trondheim. County Road 705 connects the district with
the neighboring communities of Stjørdal and Tydal. Selbu Lake is situated in
the center of the district. In earlier times, the sea was an important waterway
to Klæbu, and from there it was a short way to Trondheim. The municipality
covers 484 square miles / 1,254.2 square kilometers, and it is divided into
seven areas: Øverbygda, Innbygda, Selbustrand, Vikvarvet, Flora, Sjøbygda,
and Mebonden.
The most essential industries have been—and continue to be—farming
and forestry. From about 1500 until 1900, copper mining and especially
millstone production were important sources of income. In the mid-1800s,
about 300 men worked in millstone quarrying. Selbu has the largest
concentration of millstone quarries in Norway, and millstones from Selbu
were widely recognized for their good quality. The market was primarily
within Scandinavia, but exports were also shipped to the rest of Europe.
Revenue from millstones was mainly concentrated in the hands of three
prominent businessmen from the village: Fredrik Birch, his son Paul Birch,
and Gustave Christophersen. When Selbu millstones could no longer
compete against cast concrete blocks and steel rollers at the beginning of the
20th century, two-color stranded knitting and the knitting adventure were
already well underway. Knitting with two colors, preferably white and black,
became the new source of income for the village—the primary income for
some, and a supplementary income for others. Women and men, old and
young, took up their needles wholeheartedly.
In the second half of the 19th century, Selbu’s population fell. A total of
about 2,300 people emigrated from Selbu and Tydal and went elsewhere. In
proportion to its resident population, Selbu was one of the districts in
Norway with the largest emigration to America. People from Selbu took
their knitting and knitting techniques with them, and sources have revealed
that many also knitted as a means of earning income in their new land.
OLDER SOURCES
One of the earliest written sources describing two-color stranded knitting is
taken from “Village Stories” by the parish priest Ole Stuevold Hansen from
1873.1 Among other aspects of village life, the parish priest wrote about
wedding customs:
When the ceremonies were underway, they all went up to the bridal loft where the
knitted gifts were displayed, and then the bride divided up her gifts. These consisted of
knitted bands, stockings, and mittens. Her friends had helped her produce these,
because it amounted to a considerable number of items. The girls participated happily
and held knitting evenings (dugnad-help) so everyone could contribute. The Selbu girls
are masters at knitting artfully. They have their own way of knitting, which is called two-
color stranded stockings and two-color stranded mittens and are done with only roses
and stars preferably. The bride gives her father-in-law a shirt, all the bridegroom’s
godchildren should receive stockings from her, etc.
Oscar Tybring, a doctor and author born in Selbu in 1878, also described the
Selbu women’s knitting abilities: “They have a special expertise at knitting
stockings and mittens with all sorts of figures and flourishes.”2
The identity of the first Selbu resident to knit patterns with two different
colors is unclear. Various sources suggest a few names. In an article in the
newspaper Nidaros, 7 January 1925, Peder Morset wrote that Marit
Sessengsjari was the first to knit patterns with two colors:
About 70 years ago, two young girls worked at Kjøsnes. One was named Marit
Sessengsjari … she was a servant girl. The other was a girl named Marit Gulsetbrua, a
goat herder. Concerning the first, I know that she was ahead of her time … One winter
she was asked to make a pair of stockings for the farmer Jo Kjøsnes. The knitting on
these stockings was anything but common. Marit had knitted with two strands of
different colors, forming streaks and lines all up the stocking legs. It was simple but
something completely new, and the farmer was so happy when he received these
stockings that he called to the herd girl and said to her: “Maybe you could also make
something as pretty, girl.” This gave the young Marit Gulsetbrua something to think
about. The next summer she worked at Andersgarden (Gulsett) together with the
daughters at the summer pastures and the first true two-color pair was produced. It was
knitted with two strands all the way through and with true colorwork stars in it.
MARIT EMSTAD
According to oral tradition, it was the last person mentioned above, Marit
Emstad (1841-1929; née Guldseth)4, who was given the credit for being the
first to knit patterns with two different colors in Selbu, and she was called
“the mother of two-color knitting.” She was supposedly the first to knit star
mittens in Selbu, with patterns adapted from a storbrurplagget.5 Marit was
also one of the instigators for developing these patterns and organizing
production and sales at the beginning of this knitting adventure. By 1897,
she had already delivered the first Selbu mittens to sell to the Norwegian
Friends of Handcrafts (Norsk Husflids Venner)6 in Trondheim. Marit Emstad
was well versed in several handcraft techniques, and she won awards for her
work a number of times.
Marit Emstad (1841–1929).
Marit was the third of her parents’ seven children. Her parents were Ola
Nilssen from Andersgarden and Anne Olsdatter Kjøsnes from Oppigarden.
Marit married Per Ingebriktsen Flønesaunet, and took the last name Flønes.
Later in life, she changed her last name to Emstad when she moved to the
home of her daughter Mali, whose married surname was Emstad.
The story is that two-color knitting truly began in Selbu when Marit and her
sisters went to church one Sunday during the winter of 1857, wearing their
star mittens. Their pretty mittens were admired by those in the churchyard,
and two-color stranded knitting spread quickly throughout the district, from
farm to farm, from neighborhood to neighborhood. Various patterns were
designed and many patterns and pattern combinations were directly tied to
individual personal names and farms. Knitting became a natural part of life
in Selbu, both for everyday clothing and festive wear.
John Sjurdsen married Brynhild Olsdatter Slind in 1886. Several
of the guests are wearing their two-color stranded mittens, which
they had received as gifts.
WEDDING TRADITIONS
It is an old and well-recognized tradition that special garments are sewn and
knitted for festive occasions such as christenings and weddings. In Selbu, it
was common for the bride to knit special mittens for the bridegroom and
these had especially complicated and intricate patterning. The bridegroom’s
initials and usually the date of the important occasion were often knitted in.
Dress mittens were often red (see page 28).
WOMEN’S ORGANIZATIONS
Local women’s organizations, which originated in the Christian movements
and mission associations in the district, became more and more common by
the end of the 19th century. The first women’s organization in Selbu started
in 1863 at the home of Rosa Nordbye, and during the 1880s there were
fifteen such groups in Selbu, one in each school circle. Women met at each
other’s homes with the main goal of producing knitted goods to be sold at
auctions at the end of the year. The money earned constituted income for
charitable causes. Their primary activities were knitting, preparing wool, and
making sure the yarn was spun well for fine and desirable products.
A large part of the income generated went to missionary work, but these
associations also contributed to local socially beneficial purposes—for
example, financing for bridge building. The Old Teigen Bridge and the
Mosletta Bridge were partially financed by the knitting production of the
women’s association. In the 85-year account of the Mosletta women’s
association in 1962, we find the following: “During the first years of the
women’s associations, their activities were completely different than today.
They brought in wool and took their spinning wheels to their meetings.
Some carded the wool while others spun and yet others knitted.”7 During the
20th century, the women continued to work for good causes in the village
through various women’s organizations, housewife associations, and village
women’s teams. Among other projects they supported, the women’s
associations contributed to the restoration of the Selbu church in 1888 and
the purchase of assorted church inventory.
In 1925, Peder Morset expressed his concern for the health of young
people because they spent too much time sitting inside and knitting: “There
is a danger with this work some people must do. Many young girls who
support themselves with this can too easily spend too much time inside. Day
after day, the whole winter through, it is of no benefit for them to sit inside
by the wood stove with their knitting; the inside air and coffee affect their
health very adversely.”10
The large demand for and great output of Selbu knitting between World
Wars I and II produced negative results. Some knitters produced as many as
three pairs of mittens a day, and, working at such speed, it was naturally hard
to maintain quality. Mittens were knitted on large needles with heavy yarn,
and much of the richness of the patterning disappeared. The knitting was
looser, and the mittens could no longer hold their shape. The knitters might
also be sloppy with motifs, and mistakes were not always fixed.
Trademarked goods from Selbu were no longer well-regarded. Something
had to be done.
Karen Garberg.
The letter ended with the following appeal in bold type: “Deliver, therefore,
only top-quality work, preferably knit with handspun and undyed yarn.”
Selbu Husflidsentral at Skarodden.
There was an urgent need for quality control, for collective organization,
and for the coordination of turnover and exports. Seventeen businesses in the
district had for quite long accepted knitting in exchange for goods, and each
especially had responsibility for the turnover and setting of prices, both
within Norway and abroad. Much could be accomplished through
cooperative and coordinated distribution.
The first group who took “the warning” seriously was the Neadal Youth
Association. As part of Norway’s Youth Group, the Neadal Youth
Association worked to promote home crafts in the district, and in 1926
gradually began to develop the idea of a common concept for quality control
of all knitting. It would take many years for these plans to be realized, but in
the meantime goals for the future of home crafts moved forward in the
district.
At their annual meeting in 1927, the Neadal Youth Association worked
to ascertain the financial situation of local knitting and to ensure knitting
quality. In 1928, it agreed to work for a local home arts and crafts central
(husflidsentral), and that was the first time the word husflidsentral was used.
Their plan was to arrange all business associations into one organization
where producers would also be represented. The same year, some businesses
also joined in closer cooperation and formed Vottringen [the Mitten Ring].
But Arne Flåtten, later manager of the husflidsentral, wrote that between
1955 and 1961, Vottringen was a disappointment. This was partly because
the organization lacked the necessary trust and funds to enforce their
adopted rules.
IN 1929, 15 business organizations in Selbu conferred and jointly wrote
the following recommendation to the producers:
To the Knitters of Selbu:
The undersigned business traders hereby direct the following request that the knitters of
Selbu mittens make a strong effort to improve both the quality and sizing of mittens and
gloves. If not for this important industry, Selbu could be completely destroyed, so every
individual must take a certain amount of responsibility and deliver quality products—or
risk that in the near future we will be uncompetitive with other district organizations that
now knit a great number of mittens, which already have a reputation for being both
sturdier and larger than those made in Selbu. Our mittens must, in the future, be knitted
more firmly, and knitters must not use large needles, as has been the case in the past.
Likewise, you must completely avoid stretching them out on lasts [blockers], because
this is totally reprehensible. Gloves especially must be made with greater diligence. The
fingers must lie neatly against each other and be shaped to the form of the hand. They
must be roomy, without loose strands on the inside, and the length of each finger must
be in proportion to the others. Women’s mittens and women’s gloves should be knitted
with a loose wrist (for a knit and purl long cuff). There have been constant complaints
that our mittens have been badly washed. Therefore, wash the mittens until clean and
dry them well before delivering them … As it is in your own and the district’s interest, we
hope that you will now accede to this request so that higher values will come into play,
for the sake of the many concerned about the only living they have. Therefore, do your
duty and knit good products.
HARD COMPETITION
With the creation of the Husflidsentral and institution of quality control, the
Selbu people believed they had saved the local brand. However, there proved
to be a problem with maintaining the same quality outside the boundaries of
the district, and the Selbu mitten was once again disdained. Earlier, Selbu
knitting functioned as a source of income for the districts around Selbu, but
as Selbu items became more and more desirable, there were more places
around the country with an eye on the possibility of earning an extra bit of
money. Even in Finnmark (Norway’s northernmost county), people were
knitting two-color stranded work with Selbu patterns.15 Quantity increased
while quality diminished. To remedy the situation, several places established
centers to control the knitted goods brought in. Individual distribution
centers also found reasons to attach trademarks as a quality guarantee for
“real” Selbu quality. Products were required to satisfy certain standards,
which were based on a decision by the Norwegian Board of Standardization.
The demand for standardization came by request from the Agricultural
Department.16 There were also requirements for materials, execution,
shaping, and color. This competition from other districts was very
unwelcome for the Selbu community. Two-color stranded knitting was a
very important source of income for the district, and the Selbu people could
not turn a blind eye.
The issue persisted for a time, but gradually it became more and more
common to pay both producers and wholesalers with cash.
OPPSUTTU—SOCIAL GATHERINGS
An oppsuttu was a social gathering where the people of Selbu came together
to do volunteer work during the evenings and into the late-night hours.
Among other things, it was common for women to come together to help
with wedding preparations. At one point, because the stock of mittens had
become too large at Husfliden and shipping to other merchants during that
period had stalled, Husflidsentral sent notice to mitten producers that they
would no longer accept any mittens after a certain date. This lit a fire under
the knitters, and that date became like a “red flag.” Neighboring women
gathered at each other’s homes with their knitting, and the needles clicked
long into the night. It was important to deliver as much knitting as possible
before the deadline arrived. “We gathered before the stove, several women.
Many men also knitted with us, but they weren’t up at night … A drop of
coffee and a slice of bread and we were satisfied,” Gurine Bakken told Bjørg
Aftret in 1986.18 These social gatherings were important events. It was a
chance to exchange and trade patterns. Sofie Marstad told Kirsten Røset of
Nea Radio in 2005 that she participated in the oppsuttu many, many times to
knit mittens. Sofie recalled that the tradition of oppsuttu ended sometime
around the close of the 1950s.
The Norwegian ski jump team for the Olympics in 1952. At back,
from left: NN, Arne Elingsen, Georg Thrane, Sverre Stallvik.
Hallvar Næss. Front, from left: Hans Bjørnstad, Arnfinn
Bergmann, Arne B. Kristiansen (leader) Torbjørn Falkanger, Arne
Hoel.
Advertisement in connection to the window display competition in
Trondheim, December 1939. The yarn distributor Jens Hoff won
first prize in his class for an exhibition of Selbu items.
KNITTING INCOME
Husflid and handcraft products have, in general, almost always been poorly
paid as a line of work. The hourly wage for such products has traditionally
been, and continues to be, low. When knitting in Selbu was important as a
source of income over the years, the work was easy to take along during free
moments between farm work and caring for children. No time went to waste,
and a considerable number of mittens could be knitted in a week. Thus,
overall family income could be relatively large. Knitting income was small,
though, compared to that from other sources of work, particularly for the
female part of the population. However, it was possible to contribute
significantly to household funds by using one’s time well.
Women do not get sole credit for sustaining the family with Selbu
knitting. As in so many other places in Norway, it was not uncommon in
Selbu for men to also take up their needles. It was said that men might stay
home from logging during periods when they could earn more from knitting
than forestry. Arvid Enoksen, manager of the Selbu Husflidsentral from
1961 to 1964, told the Morgenposten newspaper that, at the beginning of the
1960s: “Men logging in the forests took their knitting needles and yarn with
them. They could sit and knit in the huts in the evening and whenever the
weather was bad during the day.”25 Enoksen also said that the brother of
Selbu’s town doctor delivered knitted goods to Husflidsentral. He was
confronted by the low hourly wages and agreed that it was silly to work at
their knitting for twenty øre per hour, but he thought women didn’t see it like
that, because they could combine knitting and mission work or knitting and
reading. So they could earn more than ten crowns, and do well with it.
It was common for young boys to earn money for their confirmation
outfits by knitting. Several men interviewed said they also knitted to earn
money for their first pair of skis. There are also many examples of boys and
men who knitted an entire wardrobe consisting of stockings, mittens,
sweaters/cardigans, and hats. Some men were especially technically expert,
and took their knitting to sell at Husfliden for many years.
81-year-old Beret R. Stokkle was interviewed by the Hamar
Arbeiderblad in 1958, and she related that when she was a candidate for
confirmation, she was paid 80 øre for a pair of men’s mittens.26 Some years
later the payment for the same product had risen to between 1.20 and 1.25
crowns for a pair. For one pair of gloves, she got two crowns. The sisters
Gurine R. Kallar and Ingeborg Mogård had both knitted since they were
children, and they mentioned in the same newspaper article that they earned
9.25 crowns for one pair of gloves in 1958.
They continued on: “It was only the speediest who could produce a pair of
gloves in an 8-hour day, so there wouldn’t be much to live on, when the
price of the yarn was subtracted.” Knitters had to provide their own yarn, so
their net earnings would have amounted to very little. Ingrid Aftret said that,
as a six-year-old, she knitted her first mittens and sold them for 90 øre. The
yarn cost 60 øre, and so her earnings were only 30 øre.27 The actual wage
this amounted to per hour, of course, depended on how fast one knitted. It
also accounts for why the amounts differ.
In an article published in Aktuelt in 1986,28 Berit Oline Krogstadmo
reported that the payment for a pair of patterned mittens that year was 12
crowns. With her knitting speed, she earned about five crowns an hour. She
began knitting when she was seven years old and it was not uncommon to
knit three pairs of mittens a day, she said. Sofie Marstad added that they
were better paid for animal motif mittens. “Before the war, I remember that
we got 80-90 øre for a pair of mittens, and ten øre more if we knitted animal
motifs—preferably moose, foxes, and dogs. That was a whole crown more
for ten pairs.”29
DYEING HISTORY
Even if Selbu knitters are best known for black patterns on a white
background, through the years many different colors were used for both
backgrounds and patterning. Synthetic dyes were used early on in the
business, and registration materials show that these were already heavily
used by the second half of the 19th century. Red and blue were especially
popular.
The first synthetic dye for textiles was violet/purple, discovered in 1856
by the Englishman William Henry Perkin. That dye later received the name
mauve. A breakthrough in chemical aniline dyes occurred around 1870, and
after that a rich color spectrum quickly spread through the textile industry
and local dyeworks around the country. The earliest dyes were industrially
produced from stone coal tar in Germany.30 Aniline dyes—or extracts, as
they were also called—were soon sold over the counter in suitable
proportions. That way they were also available for private use. Red was
produced with madder and cochineal. For blue, an expensive dye, indigo was
used, among other options. Blue colors were also synthetically produced
starting around 1900.
Several of the early synthetic dyes, however, had poor colorfastness.
They were not true dyes, and quickly faded. Mauve faded into gray. The
1886 wedding mittens in the photo here were knitted in red and violet; the
violet on the outside faded to silver-gray, but the inside shows that the color
was originally a clear, strong violet.
At the end of the 19th century, it was traditional to dye festival and dress
mittens red. In our registration materials, we have found several mittens and
gloves from the end of the 19th century that still have their strong red
color.31
For the most part, mittens were dyed red after they had been pattern-knit
in unbleached white yarn and black yarn. We don’t know whether red dress
mittens in Selbu were dyed at home or taken in for dyeing at one of the two
local dye workshops. No source reveals whether these two dyeworks dyed
yarn by special order or for sale.
In Selbu, two dyeworks block-printed textiles. Peder Haldorsen (1848-
1939)—Baknesfargar’n (“the Baknes dyer”)—was based at Baknesset. Jon
Jonsen Fargarn (1836-1917) came from the Fargargarden dyework of Stor-
Evja. Originally his farm was called Nigarden, but because of the place’s
long tradition of dyeing, it came to be called Fargargarden. In 1867, Fargarn
took over the Hårstadråen farm (Råa) in Mebonden, which was called Me
Fargara. Jon Jonsen ran the dyeworks together with his wife Sofie
Jonsdatter.32
Christening mittens included in our research materials from the end of
the 19th century were knitted in a variety of colors. Most of them were
knitted with two colors, but the knitting exhibition at the Selbu
Bygdemuseum included a pair of christening mittens from 1899 knitted in
red and violet, with turquoise lice. The oldest mitten pair worked with colors
registered in Selbu dates to 1859 and is privately owned; they are christening
mittens pattern-knit in red and blue.
Traditional Selbu mittens are, as noted, worked in black and white, with
black patterning on a white background. The first written source mentioning
colors other than black and white in Selbu knitting is a 1925 article by Peder
Morset. He wrote: “To begin with, the yarn was undyed white and black or
gray. But then they learned about a sort of brown-red color which was called
persiko (peach). This color quickly came into fashion, so they dyed all the
two-ply yarn with persiko … Persiko then went out of fashion just as
quickly, and there was soon a demand that everything for two-ply work be
undyed.”33 Other sources say that color made serious inroads into Selbu
knitting during the 1930s. Small garments, such as mittens, gloves, and
stockings, were knitted in various colors, especially Norway’s national
colors of red, white, and blue.
1965: From Selbu: Olga Dyrdal, Anna Uthus Flaknan, Kari Kallastrø,
Hyttbakken, Margit Sveen.
In 2007, the Selbu mitten celebrated its 150th anniversary, and during that
year there were several events and arrangements to mark the big occasion.
Large Selbu mittens, about 1.6 x 2.7 yd / 1.5 x 2.5 m, were hung on house
walls around the entire district. During the Selbu market, all knitters were
invited to a gathering in the square where they were honored by the market
committee. On September 22 of the same year, there was also a great
celebration arranged by Selbu Husflid, Selbu Husflidslag, and the Selbu
Bygdemuseum. The day began with an assembly in the Selbu Museum and a
showing of the knitting exhibit. The Marit Emstad certificate was awarded at
an evening party in the parish house, while the knitting needles clicked
loudly.
GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS
In February 2014, the world’s largest Selbu mittens were finally recognized
by Guinness World Records. These mittens were knitted with three-ply
Selbu yarn on a circular needle U. S. size 2.5 / 3 mm—the same needle size
as for regular mittens. The mittens used up 12.12 pounds / 5.5 kilos of yarn,
and across both mittens, 58 women took part. Hanna Farmne, at 5 years old,
was the youngest. The first mitten was finished in 2010 and measured 97¼
in / 247 cm. The second mitten was completed in 2012 and measured 93¼ in
/ 237 cm. The mittens have the dates 2010 and 2012 knitted into the facing.
Solveig Borseth and Solbjørg Langnes accounted for the pattern sizing and
drawing, and Selbu Husflidslag was responsible for the implementation. The
project was a collaborative effort between Selbu Husflidslag, Selbu
Bygdemuseum, and Selbu Husflid AS. Sandnes Garn sponsored the yarn for
the mittens.
MATERNAL INHERITANCE
from the Field Villages. From all Countries], Part I, Copenhagen, 1878,
page 412.
3 Hove, Per: Selbubindinga [Selbu Knitting]. A special publication by the
State’s Craft and Drawing School, Notodden, 1949-50, page 4.
4 Sources vary concerning the spelling:
Guldseth/Guldset/Gullset/Gullseth, Gullsetbrua/Gulsetbrua …
5 A storbrurplagget was an embroidered head covering that the bride
wore on the way to church. At the churchyard, the head covering was
replaced with a crown and the linen was worn folded over the bride’s
left arm as she walked into the church. The storbrurplagget could also
wrap a child to be christened as the piece had aleady been blessed during
the wedding ceremony.
6 Kjellberg, Anne et al: Strikking i Norge [Knitting in Norway].
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What characterizes a Selbu
mitten?
AND HOW IS IT KNITTED?
Men’s mitten with the letter H and flower sprig motifs (SE 1675)
A “Selbu mitten” (Selbuvotten) can be either a mitten (bladvott) or a glove
(fingervott), with patterning developed or traditionally used in Selbu. These
mittens are worked with specific components and proportions.
“When a mitten is worn, all the patterning of the various parts of the mitten
would, to a large degree, be visible at the same time, when the hand is in
motion.”*
__________
* Reitan, Janne: Selbustrikking—Kompetanse for morgendagen? [Selbu Knitting—Expertise
for the Future?]
THE CUFF
The cuff is the part of the mitten that covers the wrist, and is knitted first. In
Selbu, even early on, there were firm rules for the cuff. Men’s and women’s
mittens were distinguished by the type of cuff. Women’s mittens were
worked with either a chevron cuff or a ribbed cuff. Both styles used only
one color of yarn per round, but changed colors for striping. Men’s mittens
featured two-color stranded knitting and pattern panels.
Children’s mittens most often had a ribbed cuff, but older children
might have gender-specific mittens. Both sexes of all ages might have
gauntlet-cuff mittens, a style characteristic of extra-long mittens in Selbu. In
that case, the cuff was worked in stockinette and knitted first. The gauntlet
section was worn over the sleeve below the ribbing.
The main pattern on the front of the mitten constitutes the largest shapes.
These patterns were referred to as the mitten roses (stars). The placement of
these patterns could be organized in several different ways.
In order to classify the pattern surface on the mitten’s front, I have taken
as a starting point this primary source: Selbustrikking—Kompetanse for
morgendagen? [Selbu Knitting—Expertise for the Future?] (1992) written
by Janne Reitan. She divided pattern compositions into six classes. She has,
to a certain degree, defined these classes by the arrangement of the patterns
in relation to the outer mitten shape and the the tip. I have taken her
illustrations as my starting point, but have chosen to organize the classes by
the number of larger motifs. I have also added the last category, endless
patterns.
The chapter “Pattern Motifs Used in Selbu” gives more details on the
multiplicity of shapes for these stars or roses (see page 78).
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE MAIN PATTERN MOTIF
6. Endless patterns
1. ONE PRIMARY MOTIF
It is most common to find one main motif on older mittens and children’s
mittens. This main motif originally was often arranged in a diagonal square
(a diamond) with a panel or a single pattern between the main motif and the
tip, and the main motif and the cuff. A single main motif was, naturally,
most common on gloves with a pattern on the hand itself and small motifs
on the fingers.
2. THE PRIMARY MOTIF REPEATED TWICE
These are mittens with two different main motifs, a large one and a
somewhat smaller one. In compound patterns, these motifs are intertwined:
the topmost rose springs from the lower one. The shaping generally begins
partway through the upper motif.
4. TWO DIFFERENT MOTIFS
These are mittens with two different main motifs where one motif is knitted
completely before the next begins. It is most often used on older mittens,
and especially on mittens with animal motifs.
5. LONGITUDINAL PATTERNS
This allows for several repeats straight up the mitten, with three or more
motifs, often organized with a center field between two symmetrical panels.
6. ENDLESS PATTERNS
These are patterns covering the entire surface of the mitten. This method of
arranging motifs is not very common, but can be found among both old and
new mittens. The spider/woodlouse motif occurs frequently and is also
often referred to as an endless rose. In Selbu, there are countless endless
patterns and what they have in common is the ease of adapting them for
stockings and sweaters—garments with larger pattern surfaces.
PALM
Inside the hand and on the inside of the thumb are solid patterns, also called
“inner patterns.” These are typically small motifs or endless patterns. In
order not to introduce confusion with the inside of the mitten, I decided to
call these “palm patterns” rather than “inner patterns.”* Over the course of
this project, we’ve registered more than one hundred different palm patterns
(see the pattern dictionary in the chapter “Pattern Motifs Used in Selbu”).
__________
* Ingulv Røset: Selbu-målet [The Selbu Goal], page 251.
It is common to knit one stitch on each side of the panel in the background
color. However, there are exceptions—especially on older mittens—where
the pattern is completely inside the band, only on the front, or on both the
front and inside of the hand, or with one stitch knitted on one side and two
on the other.
Copying a glove by Sofie Aunehaugen’s mittens donated to the
Selbu Bygdemuseum (SE 2466).
There are many options for adjusting the sizing perfectly, for giving the
pattern some “breathing space,” and for beautifully finishing the motifs.
THUMB
The thumb begins with a shaped thumb gusset. This is unique to Selbu
mittens and not found, as far as we know, in any of the other major mitten
traditions in the Nordic countries.* The thumb gusset is increased
symmetrically, either close to the sides or in the center of the gusset.
Increasing at the center is more common on the oldest mittens that have
been registered (see page 50).
__________
* Gotland and the Baltic.
The thumb gusset begins on the same round as the main motif for the
front, at the end of the cuff. Only occasionally is the gusset knitted within
the panel or beginning on the round ending the panel. We’ve found this
detail on a pair of mittens knitted in Vikvaret, but it is more common on
Selbu-style mittens knitted somewhere other than Selbu itself.
The thumb has a main pattern on the outside, with bands at each side,
the palm pattern on the inside, and the tip shaped as for the mitten hand. On
mittens knitted before 1930, the thumb gusset was often short, although the
thumb itself was rather wide. The gusset and the thumb are each about the
same length on the mittens knitted after Husfliden imposed standards for
mitten proportions. On older mittens, it is not uncommon to see different
palm patterns on the thumb and the mitten hand. The palm pattern should
otherwise go between the mitten hand and the inside of the thumb.
Examples of well-knitted mittens. Perfect transitions between
the thumb and mitten hand.
There are many variations on gussets with black and white block patterns.
The blocks are one stitch wide and either two or three stitches long. Many
mittens have a little motif in the gusset, while others have a connecting
motif beginning in the gusset and worked up to the thumb tip. There are
countless thumb motifs. Different knitters often have their preferred
variations. For private gifts, one might knit in little messages, such as
hearts, initials, the date, loving couples, and so on.
Larger mittens might have, in addition to the gusset, an extra section
between the side band and the gusset. This can be an extra band or a small
pattern.
The gusset stitches are placed on a holder (or a short length of yarn,
perhaps) and then new stitches are cast on over the gap. Alternatively, you
can knit in smooth contrast-color scrap yarn over the gusset stitches, slide
those stitches back to the left needle, and knit them in pattern. The scrap
yarn can easily be removed later on when it’s time to knit the thumb.
THE TIP OF THE MITTEN HAND
The tip of a Selbu mitten ends, as a rule, in a point with an approximately
45 degree angle at the sides.
Often the small patterns are omitted from the topmost rose corners, and
a small motif is worked at the tip instead. This element can be the same as
the one knitted between two matching stars on the mitten hand (example 1,
knitted by Gerd Oline Uthus).
Knitter Solveig Evjemo emphasizes that the roses should be nicely
placed on the hand. She knitted the mittens in examples 2 and 3, which
show how some of the pattern structure of the third rose was borrowed from
the details of the second rose. This method illustrates how mitten roses can
be appealingly placed to follow the shape of the hand, with one rose for the
back of the hand and one for the fingers. It’s an art, arranging all these
elements smoothly so the width and length of the mitten suit the styling of
the roses. In example 3, an extra panel is knitted with two stitches at the
side of a little tiny rose so the proportions will match.
The palm pattern is, to varying degrees, fitted to the tip shaping. The
most used palm pattern (example 1), which was the pattern recommended
by Husfliden in Selbu for many years, doesn’t work with decreasing on
every round. According to the mitten inspector Annepett Sandvik, it is,
however, easy to knit evenly for a neat hand. Some Selbu knitters stress the
importance of also adjusting the palm pattern to the tip, especially on palm
patterns with large pattern repeats (examples 3 and 4).
On older christening and baby mittens, it is not uncommon for the tip to be
decreased to make a rounder top.
Copy of baby mittens from Teigen.
The same proportions and finishing for the motifs were used for the
white and red women’s mittens (example 7), knitted by Solveig Borseth.
The men’s mittens for Mikal Solem, knitted by Beret Solem from
Solemshaugen (example 8), also cut off the second rose. These are
interesting mittens! The centers of the roses are uncommon—the horizontal
and vertical lines are not alike, and this detail is eye-catching, as it is
highlighted at the center of the tip. You might perceive the slanted squares
as diagonal lines forming the roses. The mitten hand begins with a half
block, then a whole one, and another quarter at the tip. Two matching
motifs is a theme with many Selbu mittens, but obviously a bit more than
usual went into these mittens.
You can see the same blocks in the last example, knitted by Karen
Fossum (example 10). The pattern is the star with branches, each branch
forming diagonal blocks.
GLOVE FINGERS
The fingers on gloves, like mitten hands, have a front and palm, plus side
bands. The fingers are shaped at the top as for a mitten tip or the thumb, and
the rule about the palm pattern also applies to the fingertips. The fingers
overlap each other, achieved either by knitting overlapping fingers or steam
pressing them into position.
5 Gloves with endless pattern that goes over the front on four
fingers, from an article in Urd, 7 April 1834. Copy knitted by
Jorunn Skrødal.
In an old verse of a children’s finger game, each finger has its own name;
the thumb is Tåmmås at the top. The adult lightly touches each remaining
finger and then holds the thumb. At the same time, he names each of the
other fingers:
After gripping the little finger, the child is tickled on his back and then the
fingers are named in reverse. There are many variations of this verse.*
__________
* Cited in Norwegian from Røset, Ingulv: Selbu-målet [The Selbu Goal].
HOW ARE THE FINGERS KNITTED ON GLOVES?
There are several methods for knitting glove fingers.
On older gloves, the fingers were knitted side by side and the side bands
figuratively functioned like a cord on the outside of the glove hand, going
up and down the fingers. The spaces between the fingers were neat, and the
patterns aligned side by side. This is clearly shown in example 1, gloves
from Kallarstrø. In this technique, stitches are increased on both the inside
and the outside of the glove, where the gaps between the fingers meet. Two
stitches are increased at each place, at a total of six places, over one or two
rounds. Then, three or five stitches are cast on between the fingers for the
band. The last two rounds before the fingers begin are knitted tightly to
avoid holes. It is important to steam press well so the fingers lay smoothly
over each other. This technique works well with finer yarns, but good
knitting technique is important—there is a danger that both the fingers and
the pattern can split in an ugly way in the transition to the fingers. To get
this done nicely is a test of skill!
On newer gloves, the fingers are often knitted with an overlap. If you
are using heavy yarn, this shaping can be a little neater. Consider picking up
stitches from the front of the previous finger and casting on the rest of the
stitches between the fingers. In example 2, there are 2 offset stitches; in
examples 3 and 4, as many as four stitches overlap. Here the fingers overlap
to varying degrees. The advantage of this technique is that the outer shape
of the gloves aligns better for a more elegant look. For heavier yarn, this
technique is preferable because it provides better shaping and fit and is
easier to work neatly.
1 Detail of gloves knitted at Kallarstrø.
The fingers are knitted with a main pattern, the bands, and palm patterns,
and usually shaped by decreasing at the tips. If there are 3 or more stitches
in the side band, the band might also be decreased down to one stitch before
fastening off.
FINISHING GLOVES AND MITTENS
After the gloves have been knitted, the ends must be woven in. This should
be done so that the final result is neat, thorough, and pleasing.
The tips of the fingers, which should be well-rounded, should not be finished with a
knot, but rather with the yarn ends woven in until hidden. For gloves, only neat
weaver’s knots should be used or, preferably, no knots at all, so the knitting is secure
and cannot unravel.*
__________
* From Recommendations for Standards for Selbu Products—Mittens and Gloves from the
Norwegian Board of Standardization, 1939.
Mittens made to sell are not considered finished until they’ve been washed
and blocked. It was not uncommon to pull newly-washed mittens onto
wooden blocking boards and let them dry so the pair would be exactly the
same size. These wooden blockers might also have been used to make
gloves a bit larger than required both in the rules for standards and in strict
letters to the knitters:
After they are knitted, the products should be washed meticulously in lukewarm water,
even if they were knitted with recently washed yarn, and then dried well, without
stretching on a blocker or last. They should not be dried over an oven. After the
washing method specified above, the products must match the measurements listed in
the table for the given recommended size. The two mittens or gloves are then joined in
pairs so they can tried on easily without removing them from each other. Mittens can be
fastened together at the tips, but gloves should be joined at the wrists.
Now the mittens are ready to give as presents or to sell.
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Knitting techniques and
standards
Gunnhild Hårstad, painted by P. Lillo-Stenberg.
Knitting stranded colorwork Selbu mittens has been a hands-on and orally
transferred method of teaching from mother to child since the middle of the
19th century and up until the present day. Children first learned the knit and
purl stitches. Several sources related that they knitted single-color
washcloths before they began knitting mittens. Later, they learned how to
cast on and knit patterns, and how to make decreases. In practice, while a
mother knitted mittens, she taught her children how to knit their mittens.
That is to say, while she knitted one pattern, which she had memorized, she
taught the child another one which she also had memorized, and when they
sat together, the child’s knitted fabric could be checked. In that way,
knitting knowledge was transferred and children could contribute with
income-producing work.
A chest of knitting tools was called a bindingskorga (knitting basket).
The tools that fed a family were the knitting needles, needles, and scissors.
Many knitted only the mitten patterns they had memorized.
KNITTING GAUGE
Later on, after the necessary knitting techniques were well-learned and
habitual, it was time to practice getting the gauge right. This could be
adjusted by matching the needle size to the knitting technique. Ten-year-old
Gunnhild (page 60) was probably instructed to either knit more tightly or
loosely by her mother, and achieved an ideal technique early on. Some
might perpetually knit garments too small or too large if they followed the
instructions precisely. Others knew that they should choose larger or
smaller needle sizes to achieve the right results. Correct gauge is as
important as the yarn and pattern. Knitting a gauge swatch is absolutely
worthwhile!
The picture on the next page shows the same pattern knitted with
different yarns and needles. From left to right, the mittens fit, respectively, a
10- to 12-year-old child, a big boy, and a small man. The two largest
examples are a large men’s size.
At the constitutent meeting of this selected group, they were unanimous about the
understanding that, while working on their mission, it would be appropriate to:
1. Acquire legal protection for the designation of Selbu products and formulate
proposals for the text of that law.
2. Register a unique trademark for Selbu products and establish rules for its use.
3. Standardize Selbu products with regards to types, sizing, quality, etc.
4. Execute quality control.
The board recommends the standardization of 8 different sizes of mittens and 6 sizes
of gloves, each with a number. The size should be as precise as possible, determined
by the yarn and needle size used, which should be the same for all sizes, as well as
measurements in centimeters for all lengths and stitch counts appropriate to all widths.
Moreover, the weight specified per pair will allow for convenient control to ensure that
correct yarn count is used for reasonably firm knitting. Because errors are often
committed with glove knitting, we have found it necessary to indicate how the stitches
shall be divided over the fingers.*
__________
* From: Recommendations for Selbu Products—Mittens and Gloves from the Norwegian
Board of Standardization, 1939.
It proved to be difficult to standarize the use of both yarn and patterns, but
standards for sizing were, to some degree, expressed through knitting
instructions, or at least in instructions from Selbu Husflidsentral. The
recommendations from the Norwegian Board of Standardization in 1939
included prepared and detailed policy guidelines for eight sizes of mittens
and six sizes of gloves (large and small men’s, for example). Later, the
measurement schematics from Selbu Husflidsentral included standards for
half as many large sizes.
__________
* The old needle size 7 corresponds to today’s U.S. 1.5 / 2.5 mm.
** From the article in Form og Farge [Form and Color], no. 11, 1939: “Notes from the
Norwegian Board of Standardization No. 128, Recommendations for Standards for Selbu
Products—Mittens and Gloves.”
Turn the thumb with the strand out to the side and form a loop
around your thumb.
Insert the needle into this loop.
The backwards loop cast-on makes an easy and thin edge suitable for
casting on over the thumbhole gusset and between the fingers.
Experienced mitten knitters like to cast on a multiple of four for the
stitch count. That way they can have the same number of stitches on each
needle. They refer to the stitch count for mittens in terms of stitches per
needle. For example, “cast on 15 stitches for men” means a total of 60
stitches.
Ann-Mari Aas demonstrates how she casts on for the
backwards loop. The needle with the first stitch, is held in the
right hand, with the back strand over the right index finger and
the nearest strand over the left thumb.
The thumb turns to the side. The needle is inserted from down
and up along the outer side of the thumb.
The strands are tightened lightly, and the steps repeated.
In Selbu, stranded colorwork is knitted by having one color of yarn over the
right index finger and the other strand over to the left, or knitting with both
strands held in the right hand and “casting” the yarn over the needle, letting
go, lifting the hand up, and throwing the yarn over the needle tip.
Personally, as a child in 1970, I learned to hold the background color
yarn over the left index finger and to “throw” the pattern color. My sisters
learned this method from my godmother, Gjerine Bårdsgård, some years
before.
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Yarn and wool
WOOL
From time immemorial, wool has been the most prominent textile material in
the Nordic region. Estimates are that the Gammelnorsk (Old Norwegian)
sheep breed has existed for more than 3,000 years. One could thus infer that
wool has been available for at least as long. Wool has many unique qualities:
it insulates well against both heat and cold, and is heat-insulating even when
damp. It can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water without feeling either
damp or cold. Its fibers are elastic, durable, and easy to keep clean. Wool
resists dirt readily and can be cleaned with snow or water.
The secret behind all these good qualities lies in the structure of wool
fibers. The smallest components in these fibers are protein molecules
(keratin), which form chains in the same way as in human hair. Several
chains join and form fibrils, which are then joined in bundles. These bundles
form the cores of the fibers. Two unique types of fiber bundles twist together
into a spiral. When wool fibers become exposed to dampness and heat, the
fiber halves swell up in differing ways, and the shape of the fibers changes.
This causes the wool fibers to lie helter skelter with many air pockets,
which, in turn, tightens the surface of wool fabric and makes it resistant to
damp and cold. The outer surfaces of wool fibers are covered with small
scales, and a natural fat (lanolin) makes the fibers strong and dirt-resistant.
Storehouse steps at Fargar. From left to right: Mali Evjen, Sofie
F. Mølnhus, Pauline F. Kyllo, and the dyer (Jon Jonsen Evjen).
Watchmaker Hans Martin Johnsen and photographer NN. The
sheep is a special breed without wool on its legs.
Hansine and Hilma Garberg carding and spinning, Selbu, about
1945.
__________
* From Recommendations for Standards for Selbu Products—Mittens and Gloves from the
Norwegian Board of Standardization, 1939.
Strict requirements for yarn quality were set. Competition was tough, first
from other “knitting districts,” and then when polar mittens and ski gloves
came onto the market. One possibility for handling this competition was to
increase yarn thickness by using a three-ply yarn. This made the mittens
stronger and was also a way of increasing pay for underpaid knitters.
However, some knitting traditions were lost. Marketability was more
important than textile quality.
With the help of the biologist Ingvild Espelien, I have come closer to finding
the type of fiber that was used in the oldest mittens.
Concerning my theory about the outercoats and innercoats of the wool,
Ingvild says:
I have the impression that the oldest mittens used crossbreed wool. They began
crossbreeding in Norway in 1750-1850. The old pictures of sheep found in museums
show very obviously crossbred sheep. The spelsau could have been used also, or a
cross of spelsau, which perhaps had some outercoat. The crossbred sheep no longer
have an outercoat, which disappears by the third generation if one crosses crossbreeds
with spelsau. A yarn with outercoat doesn’t need to be stronger than a crossbreed yarn.
The difference in the “feeling or handle” of the mittens derives primarily from the
spinning method. Most industrially-spun yarn produced for knitting in Norway was and
remains a woolen-style yarn. Fine handspun yarn is most often closer to semi-worsted
yarn; this is the spinning method used at the Selbu Spinneri. Mittens knitted before 1880
were most likely made with handspun yarn, and they certainly must have spun long
crossbreed fiber finely and tightly in order to achieve the results we see. For that usage,
in most places, it was quite common to spin a full year’s growth of wool—about 4¾-6 in /
12-15 cm long, on crossbreed sheep. Skilled handspinners could also choose wool
fleeces with the desired quality from a particular sheep.
The citation about wool quality (page 73) mentions weft yarn (veftgarn), which could
have been worsted yarn, or perhaps heavy wool that was spun quite firmly. It also states
that, when two strands were plied together, the yarn could be unbalanced by strands
lying parallel, which indicates a very hard twist. It is important to spin and ply correctly
for the given use and strength needed.
This is as near we can come to an answer without pulling out fibers from the old
mittens and confirming with biochemical analysis.
Selbu Spinneri has specialized in spinning and improving wool quality with
wool from a line of traditional sheep breeds.* This mill neither bleaches nor
dyes wool, but rather washes it mildly and optimizes the sheep’s natural
colors with careful color sorting. Selbu Spinneri developed two yarns for this
project: Fin Gammel Selbu and Gammel Selbu. The Fin Gammel Selbu is
appropriate for the thinnest, finest mittens with the most stitches, while
Gammel Selbu is suitable for mitten patterns of a little older vintage.** Both
yarns are spun in white, a few gray shades, and black.
__________
* Gray troender sheep (multiple shades of gray tones), Bleset sheep (brown-black/brown),
Old Norwegian sheep (villsau), and Old Norwegian spelsau (all sheep wool colors),
Dalasau (brown-black, gray, and white), Norwegian pelssau (fur sheep) (gray tones and
white), rygjasau (white), modern spelsau (white), and colored spelsau (all sheep colors).
They also spin white wool from local sheep of the Norwegian white sheep type.
** The patterns for men’s mittens have around 70 stitches at the cast-on and women’s
mittens have about 60 stitches for casting on. Gammel Selbu yarn is the same thickness
as 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma and Ask from Hillesvåg.
To find as black a wool as possible, Ingvild used her large contact list
from her work preserving traditional Norwegian domesticated animals to
find a line-up with as black a wool as possible. Bleset sheep have such a
wool, and Gray Troender lambs can be completely black. There is a farm in
Rindalen with natural black sheep; the sheep farmer has bred especially for
this, because black sheep are more resistant to alveld, a disease sheep can get
from grazing. Alveld causes sensitivity to light, so the right pigmentation
(black skin and black wool) prevents the disease. In addition, Ingvild is very
knowledgeable about the farms in central Norway and knew where she could
find the finest wool.
OceanofPDF.com
Pattern motifs used in Selbu
Helga Engen Buland’s Pattern Book
Many knitters only worked those mitten patterns they had memorized.
Others collected motifs in graph paper notebooks, called rosbøker in Selbu.
I don’t remember whether Great-Aunt Inga knitted from a pattern
notebook. The mitten roses, stitch counts, and shaping were all archived in
her head. Special stars or roses were sometimes copied from old worn-out
mittens and sometimes drawn on scraps of graph paper. I often played
around by drawing knitting patterns on graph paper when I was at her house.
More organized women had notebooks, such as math books with graph
squares. Half a rose was enough; the second half could be worked as a
mirror image of the first, so more detail wasn’t necessary, and one had to
conserve the pages in a book. The small motifs around the main rose or star
were often improvised as one worked, and each knitter used her own
variations. Other motifs such as hearts and stars could appear as main
patterns on the back of the hand, as panels, or as glove finger patterns. The
patterning helped the knitter recognize her own or her family’s mittens at
school, at the mission house, and at parties.
Some very consciously drew star or rose (sjennros) variations or animal
motifs, in order to have a number of options for main patterns. Some noted
down as many different people as possible, as in a memory book, with
motifs for the neighbors and for acquaintances. Others drew in the practical
details for working motifs in given stitch counts so they fitted various sizes
—23 roses for this person, 27 roses for that one, and so on. For example, 15
stitches in width for children’s mittens and 31 stitches for the largest men’s
size mittens.
From Oline Kulseth’s notebook.
It has been very important to collect what we could of the pattern names.
Designs often had everyday names, and there doesn’t appear to have been a
tradition of deep symbolism in Selbu. The use of these patterns was more
often dictated by the knitting technique, the mitten size, and how the various
knitters liked to knit. Many of my sources emphasized that the pattern
should be straightforward to knit, logical, and repeatable, so the job could be
done effectively. Others liked variations and wanted to knit new designs
regularly so as not to get bored.
New Kallarstrø rose.
Many mitten roses, according to folklore, bore the names of the knitters who
used or invented these special roses. At Kallarstrø, they apparently began
knitting a new rose at a certain point in time. This became the New
Kallarstrø rose (Nye Kallarstrørosa). This rose was also called the
Neppåjarsrosa, because it was often knitted at the Neppåjardet farm in
Øverbygda. Likewise, the M-panel or letter M was also known as the
Blikstad hook (Blikstadkrokin) because it was knitted so often at Blikstad.
We haven’t found patterns for some of the names Ingulv Røsset wrote
about. The list includes the Blikstad rose, Gurina Trø’n rose, Brynhild Ås
rose, birdwing, and Velvan’s hook. If there are explanations for these, or
multiple names, it is our hope that readers will register the names and their
origin.
Neppåjars rose.
As we worked on this book, the same patterns have been found with
different appellations, and new nicknames for the designs have popped up.
Despite the risk of referring to something with the wrong name, we have
attempted to give the correct names to patterns that are visually related to
each other. If there are several names in use, it will be explained in the text.
The star or rose motif (sjennrosa) is discussed first. The earlier sections
are arranged according to the variations within the stars, and the later
sections discuss what is going on around the stars.
Designation as, for example, “a star with a square or block in the center”
is not a suggestion for a name, but rather is used to visually group similar
motifs and to acknowledge similar details. Some mittens serve as examples
in several places, because they have varying characteristics that can best be
highlighted in different contexts. The pattern headings are not intended as
conclusive but as a helpful means to assess the details and differences of the
mitten stars and roses. Mitten examples and pattern references do not show
identical mitten roses on all the photo spreads, but should be seen as
illustrations of variations belonging to the same pattern group.
PRIMARY MITTEN MOTIFS
On the following pages, you’ll find a pattern “dictionary” with an overview
of the primary mitten motifs (main motifs on the front of a mitten). The
motifs are illustrated with photos of the mittens. More information about the
various mittens can be found on pages 288-291.
The star motif works well for textile techniques such as knitting,
embroidery, and weaving. Selbu knitters have used the pattern on mittens
ever since two-color stranded knitting was established in the district, and no
pattern is used as much as the star. Annepett Sandvik writes in the article
“Om selbustrikking:”* “One must reckon that the first Selbu mittens to come
onto the market had the star motif. The star motif and the development of
later patterns were based on the eight-petal rose.”
__________
* “Om selbustrikking,” [About Selbu Knitting], article in Norsk Husflid, number 1, 1984.
About a third of our registered mittens and mitten patterns have star motifs.
A large number of variations have been developed from this motif, and the
knitters of Selbu have made it their own. In Selbu, the star is specified by the
number of stitches in each point, from two and up. The smallest, two- and
three-stars, are used on children’s mittens and as small motifs on fingers and
in panels. Four- and five-stars are useful for mittens knitted with heavy yarn.
The largest known star in this collection, a fourteen-star, was originally
knitted with very fine handspun yarn; the mitten on which it appears has 120
stitches around the hand.
SINGLE STAR MOTIFS
SINGLE STAR MOTIFS WITH TWINKLES AND
DOUBLE STARS
WHOLE STARS
Whole stars signify patterns with the outermost star used all the way around.
In the first two examples, there is a spider in the center; in the next, a single
star motif; and in example 7, the star motif has four “petals” in the center.
WHOLE STARS
The first example has a snowflake in the center, while the next two have pine
boughs—or is this the motif also called a fishbone rose? The name
“fishbone” was noted by Annepett Sandvik in the 1980s, although her source
couldn’t say how it came to be called that.
STAR MOTIFS WITH A BLOCK CENTER
The precursor to these patterns is probably centered around the ram’s horn
motif (verhånnrosa), which was drawn following the pattern by Brynhild
Lilleevjen. See the star surrounded by the ram’s horn on the opposite page.
These drawings were taken from Solveig Borseth’s pattern collection.
STAR MOTIF WITH DIAGONAL BLOCKS INSIDE
STAR MOTIFS WITH BRANCHES
When the star motif has diagonal lines between the star points or petals, it is
called the “star with branches or boughs” (sjennros med gren). These
branches often end with twigs (tell, the Selbu word for spruce or spruce
needles/twigs) at the tip of the mitten hand. An overview of various spruce
twigs can be found on page 99. In examples 8 and 9, an extra branch is
found in the vertical lines and in the diagonal respectively. This makes the
mitten motif a few stitches wider, and might just be the detail that makes the
mittens fit better on a slightly wider hand.
SPRUCE TWIGS AND OTHER SMALL MOTIFS
Few activities are associated with wool mittens more strongly than a ski run
through a spruce forest. The twig pattern pops up among all the star shapes,
and is a cherished method for filling out the corners of the star. Twig patterns
are shaped in a variety of ways. The patterns at the top of the opposite page
show different variations on the spruce twig pattern, while the motifs at the
bottom are characterized as small patterns.
STAR MOTIFS WITH MORE SPACE BEWEEN THE
POINTS
There are a number of mittens with unusual star motifs. There might be more
space between the points, either along the diagonal lines (examples 1-7) or
along the vertical and horizontal lines, such as on the mittens by Beret Aune
(examples 10 and 11 on page 102). These variations make the stars more
open. One could also add extra points or petals to produce, for example, a
16-point star (examples 6, 7, 13, and 14).
STAR MOTIFS WITH MORE SPACE BEWEEN THE
POINTS
ATYPICAL / OTHER VARIATIONS
These star motifs have unusual patterning on the inside. In example 1, there
are four contrast-color points, resulting in a new variation. The star in
example 2 is used on children’s mittens, but it also appears in older stocking
patterns from Selbu Husflidsentral. A block or stairsteps can be set inside the
diagonals (examples 3-9).
STARS WITH FOUR POINTS
The type of star shown in the first two examples below can also be found on
the oldest Norwegian knitted garments we know about.* This design might
be interpreted as a star, or as four stylized hearts facing each other. In the last
two examples, the four-petal rose is turned 45 degrees and in between its
petals are vertical and horizontal lines arranged as for a cross on a flag.
__________
* Kjellberg, Anne, et al, Strikking i Norge [Knitting in Norway].
ANE BERG ROSE AND OTHER LONGITUNDINAL
STAR PATTERNS
Designs with half stars were often used on mittens for boys and girls. The
motifs on examples 1 and 2 have been recorded in several pattern notebooks
with the name Ane Berg-rosa.
ENDLESS PATTERN STAR MOTIFS
STARS IN DIAGONALLY STYLIZED CROSSES
This pattern with a star set within a diagonal cross has been found on very
old textiles. It has been featured on the oldest knitted garments (17th
century) from France and the Netherlands*, and on old Norwegian block
tapestries from the 1700s.** Fragments of the pattern can clearly be seen in
Guri Randi Fuglem’s universally classic Selbu mittens (example 6).
__________
* Kjellberg, Anne, et al, Strikking i Norge [Knitting in Norway].
** Wang, Marit, Ruteåklær [Patchwork Quilts].
STARS WITHIN DIAGONALLY STYLIZED BLOCKS
STARS WITHIN ROUNDED RHOMBOIDS
STARS WITHIN ROUNDED ROSES
The Selbu Bygdemuseum has preserved a knitted scrap with a lovely mitten
rose on it. The drawings taken by the Husflid Association include a pattern
from the 1980s called the round rose (rundrosa). The rose has been adapted
for a number of fine patterns. A star at the center might be surrounded by a
diagonal and rounded square, an organic rhomboid shape, and outside that,
another rounded rose which goes all the way around or is a simplified
rendering of the number 3 (trie). You might recognize the center, which is
used on the examples in the previous chapter. Examples 6-9 have rounded
roses or circles used singly around the stars.
STARS / ROUNDED STARS
THE WHEEL, ORANGE, AND OTHER VARIATIONS
OF THE EIGHT-PETAL ROSE
Rounded eight-petal roses have a number of different names, including: the
wheel (hjulet/kjulet), orange (appelsina) and round rose (rundros). The roses
in examples 7 and 8 are the same as those called an orange in the Selbu
Husflid pattern collections from the 1980s. Several roses are referred to as
oranges; see, for example, the “Fly Wheel Rose and other flowers.”
THE WHEEL (HJULET) AND KÅNNTRØ
ROSE/SNOWFLAKE (SNØKRYSTALLEN)
FLOWERPOT AND KÅNNTRØ ROSE/SNOWFLAKE
The flowerpot (blomsterkrukka) appears on old mittens, most often on the
thumb. Flowers might also appear alone, with names such as “Kånntrø rose”
(Kånntrøros) or “snowflake” (snøkrystallen). Endless patterns with the
flowerpot motif are found on gloves from Rolseth and in several pattern
notebooks. These mittens were knitted based off of a design in a pattern
notebook.
INNBÆR / VØRSET / KØLSET ROSES
Ingulv Røset mentions the Ingeborg rose (Innbærrosa), which is another
name for Kølset or Kulseth roses (Køksetrosa or Kulsethrosa). Among the
pattern drawings made by knitters in the 1980s are mentions of the Ingeborg
rose being the same rose as the Vørset or Voldseth rose.
INGEBORG / VØRSET / KØLSET ROSES
RAM’S HORN ROSE (VERHÅNNROSA)
Elegant ram horns inspired the shape of this rose, which is seen on many of
the oldest mittens. This motif requires fine yarn and a lot of stitches, in order
to fit in all the details of the rose. It is often placed within a diagonal block,
with small patterns surrounding it. The floral flourish (blomstrenn) is much
used. On women’s mittens, the element is usually repeated twice.
In previous times, it was common for Selbu residents to go to the Røros
market in February to sell millstones, hides, and handcrafts. This is how
mitten patterns wandered between villages. A clear example of this can be
seen by comparing some mittens knitted by Marit Emstad and Pastor
Jervell’s famous mittens. His mittens were a going-away gift when he moved
away from Tolga in 1902.* They feature a simplified version of the ram’s
horn rose with approximately the same arrangement as Marit Emstad’s, but
with a simpler pattern, knitted with heavier yarn. However, Jervell’s mittens
have lovely fluffy cuffs and his name knitted in. The Pål-Innbær roses and
the number 3 shape are variations of the ram’s horn rose.
__________
* Gravjord, Ingeborg. Votten i norsk tradisjon [Mittens in the Norwegian Tradition].
Women’s mittens with the Ram’s horn rose from Selbu
Bygdemuseum (SE 3012).
1A
2 floral flourish
3 dancers/goblins
4 Guri hook / Pål-Innbær-hook / Innbær-hook / large hook
5 coffee bean
6 fly wheel
7 clover
8 clover
9 kånntrø rose / snowflake
10 lightning
11 ant path / separator / Velvan’s hook
12 ant path / separator / Velvan’s hook
13 M / Blikstad hook
14 star panel
15 spider panel
16 twelve-cross block panel
17 grape leaves or leafy vine
DANCERS/GOBLINS
Small figures make charming embellishments. These are much used on
children’s mittens, but also for adult versions on the cuffs or thumbs. The
figures are commonly described as dancers—and sometimes dancers come
with décor, including hats or patterns on their skirts. A likely older term is
“goblins” (tuftå or tufter), which are elves or underworld creatures.
1 heaven’s firmament
2 heaven’s firmament
3 grape leaf or leafy vine
4 common chicken wire
5 and 10 block or clamp
6 and 7 small cross
8 spitball
9 small H
Large palm patterns are shown on pages 208-212. On pages 215-219, you’ll
find smaller palm patterns.
SPITBALL
The yarn amount needed for baby mittens is 25 g; for women’s mittens, 50
g of each color; and for men’s mittens, 75 g of the main color and 50 g of the
pattern color. The first row (the cast-on row) is not included on the charts.
A number directly below the title indicates the museum registration number
for the original mittens; mittens without numbers are in private ownership.
ABBREVIATIONS
cm centimeter(s)
CO cast on
dpn double-pointed needles
in inch(es)
k knit
k2tog knit 2 sts together = 1 stitch decreased; right-leaning decrease
m meter(s)
mm millimeters
M1 make = lift strand between 2 sts and knit into back loop
p purl
p2tog purl 2 sts together = 1 st decreased
psso pass slipped stitch(es) over
rep repeat(s)
rnd(s) round(s)
sl slip
ssk (sl 1 knitwise) 2 times; place sts back onto left needle and knit the
stitches together through back loops = 1 stitch decreased; left-
leaning decrease
st(s) stitch(es)
yd yard(s)
BABY MITTENS KNITTED BY
RAGNHILD TUSETH (1890)
Ragnhild Tuseth (née Flakne) (1866-1960) knitted for herself, her family,
relatives, and friends, and, to some extent, for sale. These baby mittens were
knitted for her first daughter, born in 1890. Ragnhild had seven children,
including Johanna Fuglem, who inherited these mittens. Johanna was the
mother of Guri Randi Fuglem, who now owns the mittens. They were called
rose mittens in the family. We don’t know whether that refers to the color or
the patterning.
The mittens were probably originally knitted with white and dyed red yarn.
These mittens are unique in several ways. The chevron cuff was knitted with
two colors. These are the only mittens registered in the district with this cuff
design. They also have a special palm pattern with vertical sections. The two
outermost sections form the bands around the sides and are not found on
other mittens. Copying these mittens is not recommended for beginner
knitters.
Skill Level: Experienced
Measurements:
Length: 4¾ in / 12 cm
Width: 2½ in / 6.5 cm
Gauge: 29 sts in 2 in / 5 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), color 639
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 y/360 m/ 100 g), unbleached white
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Knit 3 rnds with red. With white, knit 1 rnd. Turn the work and begin the
chevron cuff (Row 4 of chart). Use two colors and work only with knit sts.
Work the first rnd following the chart, without any decreasing or increasing.
Work the second rnd as follows: *K1 red, k2tog with white, k1 red, M1 with
red, k1 red, k1 white, k1 red, M1 red. K1 red, sl 1 red st, k1 red, psso. Rep
from * around. Turn work, knit 1 rnd red. Begin pattern chart. Work back of
hand without increasing and then, on palm, increase 10 sts (in approx. every
4th st). Continue charted pattern, adding thumb gusset where indicated.
Following the chart, place 13 sts on a holder for the thumb. CO 3 new sts
over the gap. Continue charted pattern, shaping tip as shown.
Thumb: Place the 13 held sts on dpn and pick up and knit 9 sts across top of
thumbhole = 22 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Work second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb placement to
correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS FROM SOLEM
CHRISTENING MITTENS FROM RAGNHILD SLIND
(BORN 1884)
Ragnhild Slind was the daughter of Beret Jonasdatter Solem, original owner
of the next pair of mittens.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), colors 635 and 674
Notions: red cotton ribbon
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Work 2 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 2 rnds. Now continue following the chart
for the cuff. Continue to the main pattern on the chart. Increase for thumb as
shown on thumb chart. Place the 7 thumb sts on a holder. CO 5 sts over gap
and continue to top of mitten. NOTE: The tip of the original mitten was a bit
offset. To approximate this, on the palm, on the outer side of the hand, begin
decreasing two rnds before shaping rest of hand.
Thumb: Place the 7 thumb sts on dpn and pick up and knit 7 more sts above
thumbhole = 14 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Work second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb placement to
correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS FROM JONASDATTER
SOLEM (BORN 1859)
Knitted by Marit Pedersdotter Solem, mother of Beret.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), colors 667 and 624
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn. Join, being
careful not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd. Following chart,
work 2 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 2 rnds. Begin pattern, increasing 2 sts
evenly spaced around before beginning pattern motif. Increase for the thumb
as charted. Place 11 sts on holder for thumb. CO 7 sts over gap and continue
to top of mitten. The top of the original mitten is decreased all around.
Decrease with the least possible disturbance of the pattern and side bands.
Thumb: Place the 11 held thumb sts on dpn and pick up and knit 9 more sts
across top of thumbhole = 20 sts. Work following thumb chart.
Work second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb placement to
correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS BY MARTIN
HOFSLI, BORN 1899
SE 1504
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), colors 635 and 674 + small amount green and yellow
yarn
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Following chart, work 2 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 1 rnd red. Knit 2 rnds
purple. Now work following the chart for the cuff, increasing 4 sts evenly
spaced around on the 1st rnd. After completing cuff, knit 1 rnd with purple.
Knit 1 rnd, alternating red and purple. When finishing, embroider over
purple sts with green and yellow using duplicate stitch. Knit 2 rnds with
purple before working pattern chart. Follow the chart, placing the 13 thumb
sts on a holder. CO 11 sts over gap and complete hand, shaping top as shown
on chart.
Thumb: Place the 13 held sts for the thumb on dpn and pick up and knit 13
more sts across top of thumbhole = 26 sts total. Work thumb following chart.
Work second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb placement to
correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Embroider as noted above.
Gently steam press mittens under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS FROM YSTER
STOKKE
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), colors 624 and 674
Notions: black silk ribbon
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn. Join, being
careful not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd. Following chart,
work 2 rnds k2, p2 ribbing. Knit 1 rnd red and then continue following the
chart. To begin thumb gusset, increase 1 st. Increase for gusset as charted
and then place the 11 thumb sts on a holder. CO 6 sts over gap and complete
charted pattern, shaping top as shown. NOTE: Pay close attention to the
unusual tip shaping.
Thumb: Place the 11 held sts on dpn and pick up and knit 13 sts across top of
thumbhole = 24 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Work the second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS FROM ENGEN
OR BÅRDSGÅRD
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), colors 624 and 649
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 48 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Following chart, work 3 rnds k1, p1 ribbing and then knit 1 rnd red.
Continue following the chart for cuff. Knit 1 rnd red before beginning main
pattern. Over the first 2 rnds of main pattern, increase 4 sts evenly spaced
across back of hand. On the 8th rnd of main pattern, increase 2 sts on palm.
Continue following chart, placing the 11 thumb sts on a holder. CO 9 sts
over gap and complete hand, shaping top as shown.
Thumb: Place the 11 held sts on dpn and pick up and knit 9 sts across top of
thumbhole = 20 sts total. Work thumb following chart.
Work the second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
BABY MITTENS FROM TEIGEN IN
SELBU
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 y/360 m/ 100 g), colors: red and unbleached white
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 36 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Following chart, work 2 rnds k1, p1 ribbing and then knit 1 rnd white.
Continue following the chart for cuff. On the last rnd of cuff, increase 4 sts
(see chart). Now work the hand pattern following the chart. Where indicated
with red line, place 8 sts on a holder for thumb. CO 8 sts over gap and
complete mitten. NOTE: The tip of the original mitten was a bit offset. To
approximate this, on the palm, on the outer side of the hand, begin
decreasing two rnds before the shaping rest of hand.
Thumb: Place the 8 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 8 sts across top of
thumbhole = 16 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Work the second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Gently steam press mittens
under a damp pressing cloth to block.
CHRISTENING MITTENS FOR OLE
MOEN, BORN 1879, KNITTED BY BELLE
GUNNESS
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), color 635
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 y/360 m/ 100 g), sheep’s black
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 60 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Work following the cuff chart: knit 2 rnds with red, ending with the panel
with the two-end (twined) edging or a round of purl sts. Knit 2 rnds red
before beginning hand. On the first rnd, increase 4 sts evenly spaced around.
Begin main pattern. Following the chart, place the 13 sts for thumb on a
holder. CO 12 sts over the gap and complete charted pattern.
Thumb: Place the 13 held sts on dpn and pick up and knit 15 sts across top of
thumbhole = 28 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Work the second mitten the same way, reversing pattern and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
GLOVES FROM THE SELBU
BYGDEMUSEUM’S PATTERN
COLLECTION
The pattern for these gloves was copied from an old pattern in the Selbu
Bygdemuseum’s collection. Gloves with the same patterning also featured in
Strikking i Norge (1987) [Knitting in Norway]. They are distinguished by the
branches surrounding the girls on the back of the hand and the dog who
found a place with the girls on the cuffs.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool, 344 yd/315 m
/ 100 g), colors 316057 and 316058
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
Needles: U. S. size 000-1 / 1.5-2.25 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 72 sts; divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 3 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 1 rnd before beginning
pattern panel and then continue following the cuff chart. Knit the 2 rnds
between cuff and hand, and, on 2nd rnd, increase 2 sts (= 1 st on each side of
the wrist). Continue following chart, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place
the 15 thumb sts on a holder and then CO 15 sts over gap. Work the chart up
to base of fingers. Place all but little finger sts on a holder. Work each finger
following individual charts.
Work second glove as for first, reversing shaping and finger placement to
match. Make sure each of the fingers matches the length of corresponding
finger on first glove. The little finger has 25 sts around, ring and index
fingers each have 27 sts, and the middle finger has 28 sts around. See red
lines on chart for placement of fingers. Pick up and knit sts between fingers
for total needed.
Thumb: Place the 15 held sts on dpn and then pick up and knit 13 sts across
top of thumbhole = 28 sts total; work following thumb chart.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MEN’S GLOVES WITH KALLARSTRØ
ROSE FROM THE SELBU
BYGDEMUSEUM
SE 727
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 0000-0 / 1.25-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 84 sts, set up for k1, p1 ribbing. Divide sts
evenly onto 4 dpn and join. Begin charted pattern: work 2 rnds k1, p1
ribbing. Knit 1 rnd before beginning cuff colorwork pattern. At the wrist,
increase a total of 10 sts evenly spaced around in the first two rnds of the
main pattern. Shape thumb gusset as shown on chart. Place the thumb 19 sts
on a holder and CO 12 sts over the gap. Decrease 4 sts above thumb as
indicated on chart = 1 st on each rnd along the band next to the thumb
gusset. Continue up to the base of the fingers.
Place all but little finger sts on a holder. Work each finger following
individual charts. See red lines on hand chart for placement of fingers. Pick
up and knit sts between the fingers for total needed. The index finger has 33
sts around, the middle finger has 35 sts, the ring finger has 33 sts, and the
little finger has 29 sts around.
Work second glove as for first, reversing shaping and finger placement to
correspond. Make sure each of the fingers matches the length of
corresponding finger on first glove.
Thumb: Place the 19 held sts on dpn and then pick up and knit 19 sts across
top of thumbhole = 38 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
WOMEN’S GLOVES FROM SELBU
BYGDEMUSEUM
SE 2466
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 0000-0 / 1.25-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 70 sts purlwise. Divide sts evenly onto 4 dpn
and join. Begin charted pattern with: Purl 3 rnds. Knit 1 rnd for the cuff and
then work 6 rnds chevron cuff.
Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7: *Sl 1, k1, psso (or ssk), k2, M1, k1, M1, k2, k2tog, p1; rep *
to around.
Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8: (K9, p1) around.
Knit 2 rnds, increasing 2 sts on Rnd 1, 1 on either side of the wrist.
Work thumb gusset as indicated on chart and then place the 19 thumb sts on
a holder. CO 12 sts over the gap. Continue up to the base of the fingers.
Place all but little finger sts on a holder. Work each finger following
individual charts.
The sts on each finger chart that appear in addition to those marked off with
a red line for that finger on the hand chart are extra stitches picked up
between the fingers.
From left to right: index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and little finger.
See red lines on hand chart for placement of fingers. Pick up and knit sts
between fingers to add up to total needed. The index finger has 27 sts
around, the middle finger has 30 sts, the ring finger has 29 sts, and the little
finger has 27 sts around.
Work second glove as for first, reversing shaping and finger placement to
match. Make sure each of the fingers matches the length of corresponding
finger on first glove.
Thumb: Place the 19 held sts on dpn and then pick up and knit 13 sts across
top of thumbhole = 32 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MEN’S MITTENS KNITTED BY MARIT
EMSTAD
SE 3093
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 0000-000 / 1.25-1.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
NOTE: These mittens have a very short thumb gusset. For better fit, the
gusset can be lengthened by working 6 extra rnds before placing thumb sts
on a holder. The thumb can also be lengthened with a few extra rnds.
BRIDEGROOM MITTENS FOR PEDER
PERSEN (BRUN) ROLSETH, KNITTED
BY BERIT LARSDATTER
(OPPIGARDEN) BÅRDSGÅRD
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 000-0 / 1.5-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 92 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, knit 1 rnd black; turn work. Work 2 rnds k1 white, p1
black ribbing. Work the charted cuff pattern, increasing 6 sts after the first
scroll motif, and increase 2 more sts after the flowers. Shape the thumb
gusset as shown on chart. Place the 20 thumb sts on a holder and CO 13 sts
over gap. Complete charted pattern, shaping top as shown.
Thumb: Place 20 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 22 sts across top of
thumbhole = 42 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
Knitting Tips: This is the most complicated pattern in the book. Use Post-it
notes or a magnetic board to keep your place, moving marker up every row.
BRIDEGROOM MITTENS FOR JACOB
NÆSS, KNITTED BY GURINE NÆSS
Gurine Næss (1884–1909) knitted these lovely mittens in 1907 when she
married Jacob Næss (1878-1967). Gurine had two children, Olov Hogna
(1907-1985) and Ole (1909-1914). Gurine and Jacob promised each other
eternal love: even if one died, they would still remain faithful to each other.
Pretty Gurine died when she was 25, after only two years of marriage. Her
younger son died five years later; Jacob lived, a widower and single father to
Olov, for 60 years. These mittens were heavily worn and patched.
Skill Level: Experienced
Measurements:
Length: 10 in / 25.5 cm
Width: 5 in / 12.5 cm
Gauge: 24 sts in 2 in / 5 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 000-0 / 1.5-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 104 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, begin by working 4 rnds, k1, p1 ribbing. Continue in
charted cuff pattern.
To begin thumb gusset, M1 with black on 2nd rnd of hand. Shape gusset as
shown on chart. Place the 21 thumb sts on a holder and CO 13 sts,
alternating black and white, over gap. Continue to end of charted rows for
hand.
Thumb: Place 21 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 19 sts across top of
thumbhole = 40 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth
MEN’S MITTENS KNITTED BY GURU
(HÅGGÅBAKKEN) HÅRSTAD
SE 1937
Guru Hårstads (1888–1969) maiden name was Kulset, and she was from
Kolsethaugen. She married Nils Kristian Hårstad in 1919, and they had three
children. They lived at Håggåbakken, which was the cotter’s farm below
Hårstadlia. In 1950, the farm was split from Hårstadlia and allocated to Nils
Kristian Hårstad. From 1895 up to around 1930, the Selbu telephone center
was based at Håggåbakken. Guru’s husband was nicknamed “Nils Central.”
We can’t say for certain how much Guru knitted for sale, but at that time it is
likely that this was welcome income for the household. According to her
grandchild Nils, his grandmother was a kind and generous woman. She also
cultivated garden berries, which they sold.
Skill Level: Experienced
Measurements:
Length: 11¼ in / 28.5 cm
Width: 5 in / 12.5 cm
Gauge: 20 sts in 2 in / 5 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 000-00 / 1.5-1.75 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 88 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 4 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 1 rnd white. Work the
charted cuff pattern, decreasing 3 sts evenly spaced around where indicated
on the chart. Finish the cuff with 2 rnds white and then begin hand. At the
wrist, increase 11 sts evenly spaced around (to accommodate sts for base of
thumb gusset).
Shape the thumb gusset as shown on chart. Place the 23 thumb sts on a
holder and CO 23 sts over gap. Complete charted pattern, shaping top as
shown.
Thumb: Place 23 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 20 sts across top of
thumbhole = 43 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
BRIDEGROOM’S MITTENS FOR NILS
NILSEN FLØNES, KNITTED BY
GJERTRUD OLSDATTER
(TRØHAUGEN) SANDVIK, MARRIED
NAME FLØNES
SE 2260
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Prydvevgarn 1-ply from Rauma (100% spelsau wool, 656
yd/600 m / 100 g), color 635 red
AND
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black
Needles: U. S. size 000-0 / 1.5-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With red, CO 96 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join. Following
the chart, knit 1 rnd red. Work 2 rnds k1 red, p1 black ribbing. Knit 1 rnd red
before beginning pattern.
After completing large cuff pattern, on the first rnd of small pattern, increase
4 sts evenly spaced around. On first rnd of hand, increase another 3 sts
evenly spaced around. Work the thumb gusset following the chart. Place the
27 thumb sts on a holder and CO 23 sts over gap, alternating red and black.
Complete hand.
Thumb: Place 27 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 22 sts across top of
thumbhole = 49 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
NOTE: This mitten has a very short thumb. Lengthen by adding rows as
necessary.
MEN’S MITTENS KNITTED BY PÅL-
INBÆR
Ingeborg “Pål-Innbær” Pålsdatter Kallarsøya (1863-1944) grew up on
“Kallarsøya” or “Påløya.” This place was divided from the property of
Kallar Ustigarden in 1855 and given to his son Pål Jonsen from Kallar. He
was married to Kirsti Estensdatter Mebust. They ran the farm until 1910, and
had twins, Ingeborg and Berit, born in 1863. Ingeborg took over the farm
from her parents and remained unmarried until their deaths. Berit had four
children, who later had their own families. The first house on Påløya was
built near the river and prone to ice and flooding. When Ingeborg died in
1944, the farm was closed down and the property was added back to the
holdings of the Kallar farm.
It has been said that Pål-Innbær had a special recipe for a porridge taken
to women after childbirth: 1 kilo (2.2 lb) prunes and 1 kilo sugar cooked
down with 1 liter (quart) water. This made a thick porridge, which could be
cut into pieces and rehydrated. Pål-Innbær’s prune-porridge must have lasted
a long time. It was also said that she was a rather scary person. She shouted
swear words at the children and kept herself to herself. It was also said that,
because she lived in poverty, she stole wood kindling.* Despite this, she was
an exceptional knitter, and composed these mittens. The rose pattern is still
known as the Pål-Innbær rose. These men’s mittens were copied from the
original mittens** knitted by Pål-Innbær
__________
* Remembrances from Annepett Sandvik and Solveig Evjemo.
** The mittens belonged to Ingeborg Lien Uglem and the pattern was copied down by Joril
Solli.
Skill Level: Experienced
Measurements:
Length: 12¾ in / 32 cm
Width: 5 in / 12.5 cm
Gauge: 17 sts in 2 in / 5 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), white heather and black
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Grå Trønder / Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool,
344 yd/315 m / 100 g), colors 316057 and 316058
Needles: U. S. size 00-1.5 / 1.75-2.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 64 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, knit 5 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Work 5 rnds stockinette.
Work the dancers following the cuff chart and then increase 6 sts evenly
spaced around the wrist before knitting the dogs.
Knit 2 rnds white, increasing 5 sts evenly spaced around before beginning
the hand.
For the thumb gusset, increase 1 st on each side of the white center stitch of
the gusset. Work the gusset following the chart. Place the 19 sts on a holder,
then CO 18 sts with black and white over gap. Continue charted pattern to
top of mitten.
Thumb: Place 19 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 36 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
SIVERT FLØNES-TANGEN’S MITTENS
We don’t know who originally knitted these richly flowered mittens, but we
do know that Sivert Flønes-Tangen inherited them. The mittens were likely
from the late 19th century or early 20th century. They have a short ribbed
cuff, and, judging by the size, were worn by a man. Although the mittens are
wide, they have relatively small and narrow thumbs. The palm pattern is
unique and recorded in Selbu only on these mittens.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #0 (lace) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100% Norwegian
wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 000-0 / 1.5-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 75 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work the striped k1, p1 ribbing. On the 2nd white round
after the ribbing, increase 3 sts evenly spaced around. Continue working
charted pattern for hand and thumb. Place the 23 thumb sts on a holder and
CO 17 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 23 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 40 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MEN’S MITTENS KNITTED BY BERET
AUNE
SE 2467
Beret Aune (1856–1958) emigrated to the United States in 1882 with her
husband and their son. The family settled in a small community without a
school or church in Minnesota. Beret taught the local women how to knit
and sold their work in the nearest town. The resulting Women’s Missionary
Federation collected enough money from these sales to fund a Sunday
school, and a teacher, and eventually save up for the construction of a
church.
In 1893, Beret returned to Selbu and Vikvarvet. In order to get to the
shop and church, she had to row over the Nea River. It wasn’t such a long
distance, she thought, but it was so boring to go by the less-than-sturdy boat
over the river every time she wanted to shop. So, she thought along these
lines: “As with the church in America, it shouldn’t be that difficult to fund a
bridge over this river.” Beret gathered friends and neighbors, established a
bridge-building association, and the first Tiegen bridge became a reality. A
monument in her memory was raised at the bridge in 2004. When the
Gethsemane Lutheran Church in America celebrated its fiftieth anniversary,
Beret was sent a certificate. The award hung over her bed until her death.
Beret Aune lived to be 102 years old and knitted mittens all the way to the
end. She always knitted the same pattern in her old age: a variation of the
sjennrosa with a dark, wide background emphasizing the white eight-petal
rose.
These mittens were knitted by Beret Aune when she was over
100 years old.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) Gimre 2-ply Strikkegarn Selbu from Selbu
Spinneri (100% Norwegian wool, 218 yd/200 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 and 110
Needles: U. S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 68 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 3 rnds k1, p1 ribbing and then 2 rnds stockinette.
After working the first narrow panel, decrease 5 sts evenly spaced around
(approx. 1 st per needle). After the floral vine motif on the cuff, increase 1 st
for the second narrow cuff panel. Increase 1 more st to begin the base of the
thumb gusset.
Continue working charted pattern for hand and thumb. Place the 16 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 9 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 16 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 16 sts across top of
thumbhole = 32 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MEN’S MITTENS BY HANNA FUGLEM
FROM SELBUSTRAND
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U. S. size 0-1.5 / 2-2.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 76 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 3 rnds k2, p2 ribbing with white; 1 rnd k2, p2
ribbing alternating black and white; and 1 rnd k2, p2 ribbing with white.
Knit 4 rnds white. Continuing from chart, work diamond pattern and then
decrease 4 sts evenly spaced around before star pattern.
NOTE: There are 4 sts before the first star and 4 sts after the last one to
adjust the pattern. On the first rnd of the hand, increase 6 sts evenly spaced
around and continue following chart. Increase the white sts on the inside of
the black bands which mark the thumb placement. Finish the thumb gusset
with 6 rnds without increasing (see chart). Place the 19 thumb sts on a holder
and CO 12 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 19 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 23 sts across top of
thumbhole = 42 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MEN’S MITTENS WITH MITTEN ROSES
BY INGEBORG EVJEN BRENNÅS
Ingeborg Evjen Brennås (1908–96) was awarded the Marit Emstad medal
in 1966. This medal was bestowed on “knitters who have done particularly
valuable work for promoting quality handicrafts and small industry in
Neadalen.” The mitten rose preserved by Ingeborg is most likely her own
design.
Skill Level: Experienced
Measurements:
Length: 11 in / 28 cm
Width: 4¼ in / 11 cm
Gauge: 16 sts in 2 in / 5 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if
necessary.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
Needles: U. S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 60 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 3 rnds k1, p1 ribbing and then 2 rnds stockinette.
Work following the cuff chart, ending with 2 rnds stockinette with white
before beginning hand. On the first rnd of the hand, increase 4 sts evenly
spaced around. Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset. Place the 17
thumb sts on a holder (halfway up the star) and CO 10 sts over gap.
Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 17 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 9 sts across top of
thumbhole = 26 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
HILMAR KULSET’S MITTENS FROM
KALLARSTRØ
Kallarstrø was the cotter’s farm below Kallar Ustigarden. Aunt Kari
Kallarstrø (1874-1968) and her niece Petrine Kirkvoll (1883-1970) lived
together at Kallarstrø after Petrine came to the farm as a six-year-old. Both
remained unmarried. The Kallarstrø women were recognized as especially
clever knitters who had their own playful way of arranging pattern motifs.
Many of the mittens from Kallarstrø have been preserved—the owners have
obviously cared for these as fine mittens.
These mittens have many technical finesses. When the pattern panels
were knitted for the cuffs, 1 stitch was slipped in the transition between
rounds so the pattern would look as fine as possible, without a jog. The
mittens often featured figures, monograms, and dates on the cuff or thumb.
Thumb gussets were often embellished with hearts. On the gloves that have
been preserved, there are different motifs on each fingertip. The Kallarstrø
women also had their own special techniques and tricks when it came to
knitting mittens with two composite patterns. Decreasing one or two stitches
on each side of the mitten hand beside the top rose made the mitten a little
narrower to follow the hand’s shape perfectly. This was especially obvious in
the 1965 mittens that belonged to Hilmar Kulseth, and in Sofie
Aunehaugen’s mittens from 1968.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
For a larger men’s size, use:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
Needles: U. S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 60 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 2 rnds k1, p1 ribbing. Work the motifs on cuff
chart, ending last white rnd by increasing 2 sts evenly spaced around.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset. Place the 16 thumb sts on a
holder (halfway up the star on back of hand) and CO 13 sts over the gap.
Complete mitten following chart, noting decreases on palm: decrease 1 st on
each side as shown on chart (at the center of the second large motif on back
of hand).
Thumb: Place 16 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 33 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
SOFIE AUNEHAUGEN’S MITTENS
KNITTED AT KALLARSTRØ
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), white heather and black heather
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g) colors 401 natural white and 410 black
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool, 344 yd/315 m
/ 100 g), colors 316057 and 316058
Needles: U. S. size 0-1.5 / 2-2.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 56 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work in striped k2, p2 ribbing. End cuff with 2 rnds
stockinette with white. On the first rnd of the hand pattern, increase 4 sts
evenly spaced around. Work hand and shape thumb gusset following charts.
Place the 13 thumb sts on a holder (halfway up the star on back of hand) and
CO 7 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 13 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 11 sts across top of
thumbhole = 24 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
WOMEN’S MITTENS FROM THE
NORWEGIAN MUSEUM OF CULTURAL
HISTORY’S PHOTOGRAPHY
COLLECTION CA. 1900
NF 14389-001
These mittens were reconstructed from an old black and white photo of a
mitten from Selbu. The background color is clearly a darker color than
white. We used undyed yarn in sheep’s colors from the Selbu Spinneri in
light gray and sheep’s black.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Fin Gammel Selbu from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 393 yd/360 m / 100 g), gray and sheep’s brown-black
Needles: U.S. size 000-0 / 1.5-2 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With gray, CO 72 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work the chevron pattern as follows:
Pattern Rnd: *K1, M1, k2, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, k2, M1*; rep * to *
around.
Alternate “Plain” Rnds: K5, *p1, k1, p1, k9*; rep * to * around, ending
with k4 instead of k9.
Work a total of 36 chevron rnds, striping as indicated on chart.
Knit 2 rnds gray before the dancers and dogs on the top of the cuff and then
knit 2 rnds gray before beginning hand, increasing 3 sts evenly spaced
around on 2nd rnd. Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown.
Place the 17 thumb sts on a holder and CO 13 sts over gap. Complete mitten
following chart.
Thumb: Place 17 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 34 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
WOMEN’S MITTENS WITH THE RAM’S
HORN ROSE FROM THE SELBU
BYGDEMUSEUM
SE 3026
Instructions: With white, CO 84 sts purlwise. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and
join. Purl 3 rnds and then knit 1 rnd. Now work the chevron cuff:
Pattern Rnd: *P1, k2tog, k4, M1, k1, M1, k4, k2tog*; rep * to * around.
Alternate “Plain” Rnds: *P1, k13*; rep * to * around.
Repeat the 2 chevron rnds 6 times before beginning stripe sequence. Work
the striped chevron pattern following the chart = 53 rnds of chevron. Knit 4
rnds in white after stripe sequence. After completing flower panel, increase 6
sts evenly spaced around. Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as
shown. Place the 19 thumb sts on a holder and CO 14 sts over gap. Complete
mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 19 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 36 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
NOTE: These are long mittens. The mitten begins with 9 rounds worked
with white (not shown on chart) before the pattern begins. For a shorter cuff,
you can omit either one stripe repeat or the flower panel.
WOMEN’S MITTENS FROM ANNICHEN
SIBBERN BØHN: NORWEGIAN
KNITTING DESIGNS (1947)
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool, 344 yd/315 m
/ 100 g), colors 316057 natural white and 316058 light brown heather
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g) colors 401 natural white and 410 black
Needles: U.S. size 000-1 / 1.5-2.25 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 72 sts purlwise. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and
join. Purl 2 rnds and then knit 1 rnd. Now work the chevron cuff:
Pattern Rnd: *P1, k2tog, k6, M1, k1, M1, k6, k2tog*; rep * to * around.
Alternate “Plain” Rnds: *P1, k17*; rep * to * around.
Work the striped chevron pattern following the chart = 35 rnds of chevron.
After completing cuff, knit 2 rnds white before beginning hand. At wrist,
increase 3 sts evenly spaced around. Continue charted rows, shaping thumb
gusset as shown. Place the 19 thumb sts on a holder and CO 16 sts over gap.
Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 19 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 20 sts across top of
thumbhole = 39 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MITTENS FROM SOFIE MARSTAD
“I was born in the small bedroom at Evjen Dyeworks in 1919 and christened
Sofie after my grandmother.” Thus Sofie Marstad (1919-2012) began her
story in her collected recollections, entitled “As I remember…” and
continuing up to 2007. Her grandparents and parents ran the dyeworks and
did fabric printing in Selbu (see also pages 28 and 74). Her husband was
Ingebrigt Tomassen Marstad, and they had six children—including Jorunn
Skrødal, who contributed to this book by knitting reconstructions of some of
the older mittens.
Sofie knitted and wove her whole life, with countless pairs of mittens
and sweaters flying off the needles in her industrious fingers. She knitted
and made her own clothes before she began school. As a young girl, Sofie
spent much time at the summer pastures. She knitted while tending to
livestock at the same time; she could have eight to ten pairs of mittens to
bring home from the summer pasture cottage. She mentions all the girls she
taught to knit when small and how they knitted to earn the money to buy
their own clothes and shoes. One pair of shoes cost eight crowns,
corresponding to the income from six or seven pairs of mittens. Tomas, the
only son, also knitted his own trousers. As with other Selbu knitters, Sofie
had all the patterns in her head. In her youth, she already had ten to twelve
different patterns memorized.
Sofie was always fascinated by cultural traditional and history, and
participated actively in the cultural life of Selbu. She was one of the leaders
behind the foundation of the Selbu Bygdemuseum, together with Annepett
Sandvik. Sofie died in 2012, leaving the village much poorer for her passing.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-4 / 2.5-3.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With brown-black, CO 84 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, purl 2 rnds and then knit 1 rnd. Work 3 rep of the 2-rnd
pattern (= 6 rnds total) of the chevron pattern as follows:
Rnd 1: *P1, k2tog, k4, M1, p1, M1, k4, k2tog*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 2: *P1, k6*; rep * to * around.
Knit 2 rnds black and then work cuff pattern following chart. After
completing pattern motifs, knit 3 rnds black, and on 4th rnd, decease 28 sts
evenly spaced around. Work 18 rnds in k2, p2 ribbing. Knit 1 rnd black and,
on next knit rnd, increase 2 sts, 1 on each side of the wrist.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 13 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 12 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 13 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 13 sts across top of
thumbhole = 26 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
GIRLS’ MITTENS KNITTED BY SOLVEIG
EVJEMO
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black heather and white heather
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool, 344 yd/315 m
/ 100 g), colors 316057 natural white and 316058 light brown heather
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 60 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, purl 2 rnds and then knit 1 rnd before the chevron
pattern. Work the 2-rnd rep of the chevron pattern as follows:
Rnd 1: *K2tog, k5, M1, k1, M1, k5, ssk*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Work a total of 34 pattern rnds, following charted stripe sequence. Next, knit
1 rnd increasing 4 sts, spaced over previous increases = 64 sts. Knit 2 more
rnds before the hand.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 17 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 16 sts over gap. Decrease above thumbhole as shown
on the chart. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 17 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 34 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
GIRLS’ MITTENS FROM UTHUSDALA
Inga Uthus (1911–97) had twelve children. Ten survived and all of them
learned to knit, both boys and girls. In text saved from an article in the paper
Billedbladet Nå, 1955, accompanying a picture, it says:
Kjell, 15 years old (holding pole), made the sweater he is shown wearing. In this
household, it was the custom that the oldest boys took their knitting with them when they
went out to work in the woods. For example, Sverre, 14 years old, took his handwork
when he went to tend the flocks in Tydalen. Those who didn’t go away to work also
contributed: Solfrid, 12 years, knits everything for herself. Gerd, 8, and Svein, 10, have
each sold 5 pairs of mittens to the handcraft shop. Kolbjørn, 6 years old, tentatively knits
washcloths for his mother.
Gerd reported that they alternated school days and knitting days. Everyone
had to contribute to the family income, but they also had time to play!
This stylish pattern, which Gerd copied from her mother, has an especially
tightly composed visual appearance. The rhomboid centers of the roses
alternate from black to white up the back of the hand, so that one may
alternately see stars or blocks.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 35 sts purlwise. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and
join. Following the chart, purl 1 rnd. Work the 2-rnd rep of the chevron
pattern as follows:
Rnd 1: *P1, k2tog, k1, M1, k2, M1, k1, k2tog*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 2: *P1, k6*; rep * to * around.
Work a total of 20 pattern rnds, following charted stripe sequence. Knit 1
rnd, increasing 3 sts evenly spaced around and then begin hand.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 10 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 8 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 10 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 8 sts across top of
thumbhole = 18 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
GIRLS’ MITTENS FROM BRUMOEN
These girls’ mittens were knitted for Inger Jørgensen in the 1950s by her
aunt, Gurine Roldseth.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
Needles: U.S. size 0-1.5 / 2-2.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 35 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 41 rnds k2, p2 ribbing, working stripe sequence as
shown on chart. After completing cuff, increase 7 sts evenly spaced around
and then knit 2 more rnds before beginning block and diamond pattern
motifs. Knit 1 rnd white, increasing 4 sts evenly spaced around; begin hand.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 17 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 11 sts over gap. NOTE: Just above the thumbhole,
there are special decreases—decrease 1 st on each rnd next to the band 3
times, as shown on chart.
Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 17 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 15 sts across top of
thumbhole = 32 sts total. Decrease 1 st on every rnd on the thumb side,
which turns in to the center of the hand. Rep two times. Work following
thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
NOTE: The original mittens have very short thumbs. This pattern has been
adjusted by Solveig Evjemo.
HELGA ENGEN BULAND’S FAVORITE
MITTENS
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), gray and brown-black
OR
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 104 medium gray-brown and
164 dark brown
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With gray, CO 48 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work around in k1, p1 ribbing in stripe sequence. On
the last rnd of ribbing, increase 6 sts (in purl sts) evenly spaced around. End
cuff with 2 knit rnds.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 15 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 9 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 15 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 15 sts across top of
thumbhole = 30 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
WOMEN’S MITTENS WITH MITTEN
ROSE BY MARTIN SVE’N
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 48 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work around in k2, p2 ribbing for 28 rnds, working
stripes as shown on chart. After ribbing, knit 1 rnd white and then work top
of cuff motif. Knit 2 rnds, and, on the 2nd rnd, increase 5 sts on the back of
hand and 1 st on the palm.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 13 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 9 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 13 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 13 sts across top of
thumbhole = 26 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
MODERN GIRLS’ MITTENS BY INGA
(BAKKELIEN) ROLSETH
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), gray, brown, or black and white
OR CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 149
dark navy blue
OR CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) Selbu Husflidsgarn from Sandnes Garn
(100% wool, 115 yd/105 m / 50 g) blue and white
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With blue, CO 48 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work in k3, p1 ribbing, working stripes as shown on
chart. After completing ribbing, knit 2 rnds with blue; but on 1st rnd,
increase (in purl sts) 3 sts evenly spaced around.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown (gusset reaches half
way up star on back of hand). Place the 13 thumb sts on a holder (halfway
up a star) and CO 10 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 13 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 12 sts across top of
thumbhole. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
FLOWER POT FROM ROLSET
This is an old pattern recorded by Jorunn Rolseth. The mittens with this
pattern were reconstructed from these pattern drawings. The same pattern
can be found on gloves in the Selbu Bygdemuseum (SE 2456), knitted by
Anne Lien (née Almåhaug), Liheim.
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) 2-ply Gammelserie from Rauma (100% wool, 175
yd/160 m / 50 g), colors 401 natural white and 410 black
OR CYCA #2 (sport, baby) Ask from Hillesvåg (100% wool, 344 yd/315 m
/ 100 g), colors 316057 natural white and 316058 light brown heather
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 60 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, purl 3 rnds and then knit 1 rnd. Work the 2-rnd rep of
the chevron pattern as follows:
Rnd 1: *P1, k2tog, k2, M1, p1, M1, k2, k2tog*; rep * to * around.
Rnd 2: *P1, k4*; rep * to * around.
Work a total of 23 pattern rnds, following charted stripe sequence. Knit 2
rnds, before beginning hand.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 17 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 12 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 17 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 12 sts across top of
thumbhole = 29 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
WOMEN’S MITTENS KNITTED BY
GJERTINE (USTPÅ) BÅRDSGÅRD
Materials
Yarn:
CYCA #3 (DK, light worsted) 3-ply Strikkegarn from Rauma (100%
Norwegian wool, 118 yd/108 m / 50 g), colors 101 natural white and 116
dark brown-black
OR CYCA #1 (fingering) Gammel Selbu 2-ply from Selbu Spinneri (100%
Norwegian wool, 361 yd/330 m / 100 g), black and white
Needles: U.S. size 1.5-2.5 / 2.5-3 mm: set of 5 dpn
Instructions: With white, CO 52 sts. Divide sts onto 4 dpn and join.
Following the chart, work 30 rnds k2, p2 ribbing, working stripes as
indicated on chart. After completing ribbing, knit 2 rnds white, the
checkerboard pattern, and then 2 rnds white, increasing 4 sts evenly spaced
around on last rnd.
Continue charted rows, shaping thumb gusset as shown. Place the 13 thumb
sts on a holder and CO 17 sts over gap. Complete mitten following chart.
Thumb: Place 13 held sts onto dpn and pick up and knit 17 sts across top of
thumbhole = 30 sts total. Work following thumb chart.
Make the second mitten the same way, reversing shaping and thumb
placement to correspond.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block by gently steam pressing
under a damp pressing cloth.
OceanofPDF.com
RESOURCES
NOTE: Titles are in the original language only unless an English
translation has been published.
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Nielsen, Ann Møller: Alværdens Strikking, Forlaget Ariadne 1988.
Nielsen, Ann Møller: Pregle, binde og lænke, Fredericia 1983.
Oscarsson, Ulla: Kvinnomöda och skaparglädje, Jamtli 2012, pp. 72–74.
Reitan, Janne: Selbustrikking—kompetanse for morgendagen?
Hovedfagsoppgave i forming, Statens lærerskole i forming, Oslo 1992.
Røset, Ingulv: Selbu-målet, Novus, Oslo 1999.
Røset, Ingulv: “Selbustrikkinga, ein lokal kulturskatt.” Årbok for Trøndelag
1977.
Shea, Terri: Selbuvotter: Biography of a Knitting Tradition, Spinningwheel,
2007.
Stuevold Hansen, Ole: Bygdefortælling. Opptegnelser fra Tydalen, Annex
til Selbu, Tromsø 1873, p. 136.
Summatavet, Kärt: My History: The Letters of Kihnu Roosi, University of
Tartu Viljandi Culture Academy, 2010.
Sundbø, Annemor: Spelsau og samspill, Bokbyen forlag, 2015.
Sundbø, Annemor: Norwegian Mittens and Gloves, Trafalgar Square
Books, 2011.
Sundbø, Annemor: Strikking i billedkunsten / Knitting in Art, Torridal
Tweed, 2010.
Sundbø, Annemor: Invisible Threads in Knitting, Torridal Tweed, 2007.
Sundbø, Annemor: Everyday Knitting: Treasures from a Ragpile, Torridal
Tweed, 2000.
Tybring, Oscar: Skildringer fra Fjeldbygderne. Fra alle Lande, Part 1,
Copenhagen 1878, p. 412.
Washburn, Dorothy K. and Donald W. Crowe: Symmetries of Culture.
Theory and Practice of Plane Pattern Analysis, University of
Washington Press 1988.
Wintzell, Inga: Sticka mönster. Historiskt stickning i Sverige, 1976.
Pattern Collections
Rauma Ullvarefabrikk and Selbu Husflid: “Selbustrikk” [Selbu Knitting],
pattern booklet
Aas, Ann-Mari
Borseth, Paula Petrine
Borseth, Solveig
Buland, Helga Engen
Baardsgaard, Inge Lucie
Evjemo, Solveig
Kulseth, Oline
Larsen, Johanna
Lien, Gjertrud
Marstad, Sofie
Nordvik, Ingrid
Overvik, Ingeborg
Paulsen, Else
Renå, Marit
Rolseth, Inga
Røsset, Ingeborg Negård
Sesseng, Gudrun
Sesseng, Hjørdis
Sesseng, Reidun
Skrødal, Jorunn
Uthus, Gerd Oline
Viken, Nanna
Solli, Joril
Oral Sources
Anne Petrine Sandvik (Annepett) (born 1928)
Kirsten Røset, Nea Radio, knitting programs 1, 2, 3, 2005.
Sofie Marstad (1919–2012)
Solveig Borseth (born 1943)
Øystein Skurset (born 1933)
Solveig Evjemo (born 1925)
Jorunn Skrødal (born 1936)
Marit Renå (born 1934)
Ann-Mari Aas (born 1948)
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MITTEN REFERENCES
WHAT CHARACTERIZES A SELBU MITTEN?
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PHOTO CREDITS
Cover photo: Grethe Britt Fredriksen
Page 2: Oddvar Brønstad
Page 7: Unknown photographer
Page 8: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 9: Postcard by Krigsarkivet/NTB Scanpix
Page 11: From Bøhn, Annichen Sibbern, Norwegian Knitting Designs.
Pages 12-13: Bernt Kulseth (Birgitta Odén and Guri Randi Fuglem: Anne
Bårdsgård)
Page 14: Forest manager Erline Archer
Page 17: O. P. Schiefloe, Trondhjem, Selbu Village Museum’s photo
archives
Page 18: top: Einar Jensen, Selbu; middle: NN; bottom, NN. All from the
Selbu Municipal photo archives
Page 19: top: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ 1955. Bottom: Odd Rygg.
Both from Selbu Village Museum’s photo archives
Page 21: NN, All from Selbu Village Museum’s photo archives
Page 22: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ 1955. Selbu Village Museum’s
photo archives
Page 23: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ 1955. Selbu Village Museum’s
photo archives
Page 25: Severresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum, copy of original
Page 26: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ 1955. Klaus Forbregd, Dagbladet,
Both from Selbu Village Museum’s photo archive
Page 27: Heidi Garberg, Birgitta Odén
Page 28: Heidi Garberg, Birgitta Odén
Page 31: Selbu Village Museum’s photo archive
Page 32: Left to right: Birgitta Odén, Narve Rognebakke, Selbyggen
Pages 33-37: Heidi Garberg
Page 38: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 39: Heidi Garberg, Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 42-45: Heidi Garberg
Page 46: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 47: Grethe Britt Fredriksen
Pages 48-50: Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 51-52: Heidi Garberg. Detail photos: Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 53-56: Heidi Garberg
Page 57: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 58: Heidi Garberg. Detail photos: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 59: Aina Bye
Page 62: Left to right: Anne Bårdsgård, Heidi Garberg, Anne Bårdsgård
Page 63: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 64: Heidi Garberg
Page 67: Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 68-69: Grethe Britt Fredriksen
Page 70: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 72: NN. Selbu Village Museum’s photo archive
Page 73: Lars Garberg, Selvu, around 1945
Page 74: From the top down: Maja Espelien, selbyggen, Ingvild Svorkmo
Espelien
Page 75: Top: Anna Rehnberg, Norwegian Resource Center (Norsk
genressurssenter). Bottom: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 77: Top: Anna Rehnberg, Norwegian Resource Center (Norsk
genressurssenter). Bottom: Heidi Garberg
Page 80: Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 81-96: Heidi Garberg
Page 98: Aina Bye
Pages 100-124: Heidi Garberg
Page 126: Aina Bye, Heidi Garberg
Pages 128-130: Heidi Garberg
Page 132: Aina Bye
Page 133: At right: NN
Pages 133-136: Heidi Garberg
Page 138: Aina Bye
Page 139: Pattern from Selbu Husflid’s Materials Collection and from
Helga Engen Buland’s pattern book. Heidi Garberg, Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 140-148: Heidi Garberg
Page 150: Aina Bye, Heidi Garberg
Page 152: Anders Dale, Illustrated
Pages 153-157: Heidi Garberg
Page 160: Aina Bye
Page 161: Heidi Garberg, Aina Bye
Pages 162-170: Heidi Garberg
Page 172: Heidi Garberg, Anne Bårdsgård
Page 174: Heidi Garberg, Anne Bårdsgård
Page 176: Heidi Garberg
Page 178: Aina Bye
Pages 179-181: Heidi Garberg
Page 184: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 192: Heidi Garberg
Page 196: Aina Bye, Heidi Garberg
Page 202: Anne Bårdsgård
Pages 206-213: Heidi Garberg
Page 214: Aina Bye, Heidi Garberg
Page 220: NN
Page 222: NN, Heidi Garberg
Pages 224-229: Heidi Garberg
Page 230: NN, Heidi Garberg
Pages 232-236: Heidi Garberg
Page 238: O. P. Schiefloe,Trondhjem, Selbu Village Museum’s photo
archive, Heidi Garberg
Page 240: Hifling Trondheim, NN, Norway’s Husflid
Association/Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
Page 242: NN, Heidi Garberg
Page 244: Forest manager Erling Archer, Heidi Garberg
Page 246: NN, Heidi Garberg
Page 248: Heidi Garberg
Page 250: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 2542: NN, Heidi Garberg
Page 254: Heidi Garberg
Page 256: Selbu Village Museum’s photo archive, Heidi Garberg
Page 258: Anders Dale, Illustrated, Heidi Garberg
Pages 260-264: Heidi Garberg
Page 266: Urd No. 48, 1930, Heidi Garberg
Page 268: NN, Birgitta Odén
Page 270: Bernt Kulseth, Heidi Garberg
Page 272: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ, 1955, Heidi Garberg
Page 274: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 276: NN. Heidi Garberg
Page 278: Ragge Strand, Billedbladet NÅ, 1955, Heidi Garberg
Page 280: Jørgen Paulsen 1966, Heidi Garberg
Page 282: Heidi Garberg
Page 284: NN, Heidi Garberg
Page 286: Anne Bårdsgård
Page 296: From the top down: Oddvar Brønstad, Bente Hårstad, Arild
Espelien, Ida Bjørvik
Your own children’s mitten
Your own women’s mitten.
Your own men’s mitten
ANNE BÅRDSGÅRD
Birgitta Odén (born in 1950) majored in art history and is a certified curator
at NMF (Norges Museumsforbund). Since 1999, she has worked as the
regional conservator in Malvik and Selbu (and in Tydal, 1999-2006), and
was the project leader for establishing the knitting exhibition in the Selbu
Village Museum and at the Johan Nygaardsvold Museum in Hommelvik.
For 13 years, she has been a working artist and a member of a collective
workshop.
INGVILD SVORKMO ESPELIEN
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