Please use this insertion to con€ct the lollowina tvTographicavlrintingerror

PROFESSIONAI-PATTERN GR,ADTNG:

Pase15-Line18.(3)MoveIN l/8" (0.3o) Drawtheshoulder

Pase23- Line16- (3)MovelN1/8(0.3ci) Dnwthearnscve
Page26 Line36 (6)MoyeaF 1/8"(0 3 cn). Drawthesidesean

Pas€53 Line35- a.d bac&edes ol tle sleev€1/16"(0 2 cm)aput

Page59 Line34- (5)MoverOr/N1/8"(03cm)mdIN1/8"(03cm)

Pase91- O,r md ft shouldberders.d ontnedirectimala@ws

Paee93 O/ dd L should!e reversd otrthedirectimala@ws
Pase100'M@eI (1)should
te conected
asfollNs:

UP DOWN
OUT IN

Pace112 Mde # (?)sholldheconectedasfollows:

DOWN UP

IN OUT 5/8"(1,6cm)

DOWN UP
IN OUT

lage 138 Mde t (4),line3, shouldi@d:

bladeu€a, seeNote qder (4) onpase86)

PleaF acceptny since.eapologi4 lor any inconveniencedese €rors @v haveuused tou. Y@

ma' be assred rhat they will becdr€ted belore tle next printins
ROFESSIONAL PATTERN GRADING

for Women's, Men's and Children's Apparel

by
JAoKHANDFoRD,
ED.D.
Copyright 1930 Plycon press
Printed in lhe United states of A,aelica
A11 rights reserved. No part of ehis book
na! be leDrodu.ea.w cny neare ditnour r\e
of the Publisher-

340 The vil1age, No. 105

Redondo 3each, catifornia 9027?
Lirraly of congless cataloq card Nuber: 79_9L230
rsBN:0-916434-34-6
 DEDICATION

This bool is dedi.ated to all thosewho sharemy philosphythat clothing is trult oneoI oui
recessities,along witn lood and sh€lteri but that lood, regardlessof the thought and care that
<oesinto tts preladtion, is ephemeralandonly the menory ol it .enainsr that shelterrepresents
trn exDensiveand genefllly long terD investmentthat is not easily changedto suit our shiiting
loods. On the other hand,clothins on be as disposableas we {ish, qlickly .hanged accordins
:o our needsandrvithin a wide rangeoi prices ald the pleasue and satisJactionthat con€s lron
Tearinga velldesigne d, well.constru.ted md wel.fitt edgament ol appropriaten aterialcanout
:ire the mostmgnificent neal snhout repr*enting the e{penseor peftance oJho!si.A.

JACKllAmrom, DD.D.
 CONTENTS

SECTIONI _ WOMEN'S1VEAR
.
ErplanationolWomenswearGradins
between
Difleren.es sizes ..

I G . a d e. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , ...5
f 1 / 2 C r a d e. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 10
2 Grade . .13
C h a df o ra l g r a d e s. . . . . . . . . . . .

1 G r a d e. . . . . . . . .. .. 18
1 . 1 / 2G r a d e. . . . .... .... ..2r
2 G r a d e. . . . . ..24
C h a f o r a l l g r a d e.s. . . . . . . . . . ..28

l c r a d e. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..31
1 . 1 / 2G . a d e. . . . . . . . . .... '35
2 G r a d e. . . . . . .. 39
C h a r t f o r 3 l l g r a d .e.s. . . . . . . . .

Chat for all grades . . . . , . . . . .. 48

Naistbandsfor ScDarateShirt or Pants . .50

1 ' G . a d e a n dl / 2 ' G r a d c . . . . . .
2 " G r a d .. . . . . . . . . .. ..57
Chanfo. al grades .. . . .62

I"Gnde ... ....... ...

I 1 / 2 G r a d e. . . . . ..
2 G r a d e. . . . . .
Chartirallgrades . . ... 76

CiartJorallgrades . ... 73
 ' Crdae ..
1.1/2"cradeand2,,crade
.. 82
Cha|tlor allgradesConvexnecktine ...
.. 8,1
Charttor aI srades Concaveneckline ...
.35
Noresio. SectionI
SECTJONII DESJGNVARIA'IIONS
Princess. Cjrartlorallgmdes
Midrifi Chartfor allgrades
BackYoke . Charttor a srades
.. 9,1
sha\rlCotlarCharctor a srade
Blouse torso , Chart for all gRdes , . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.93
KinonoSleeve . STrapBodi.e. Charttor all
slades. . 100

Bodice Chartf.r altgRdes

r02
S l e e v eC h a r t t o . a l t g r a d. e. .s . . . . . . . . . .
104
S l . e v e a n d Y o k e C u t I n O n e . C h a r t t o . a i l s.m . .d e s r06
SixCo.eSlirt . Cha for allsndes . . . . . . , . . . ..
108
S k i r t w i t h C u t - i n F o c k e t _ C h a r t f o r a l l s. .i a
. .d. .e s 110
Circle Skirt . Chartlor a srades
I12
s N i n W e a r B o d y S r i L - C n a . r l o r a l l s r a.d. .e. s. . .
114
SECT]ON]II MENSWEAR
.E'T
Dific rencesbetweensizes
t22

I 'o' c n,rBod.
123
Charto.2,,grade
130
Back Shi.t Body andyoke . . . . . . . , . . . . .. 132
Chlrrlo.2,,srade
138
C o l l a r. . . . . . .
140
S | e e v .e. . . . . , . . . . . .
141
LonsandShortSteeve.
Charrtor2,,srade 146

F r o n t B o d J , - C h a r t l o r . ! , C r.a. .d e. . . . . .. 143
B a c l S h n t B o d y _ C h r t J o r 4 , , c r a. .d. e ,..... t50
L o n s a n d S h o r t S t e e v e . C h a r t t o r 4 , ,.s. n . .d e 152
C o l t a .4 , , g m d e. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Babis 3 nonurstbrowh 36noftns
B . d i c eF,r o n t a n d B a c k ..,.,..,,..... 210
Sleeve. . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . , , , , . . . . . . . . . . . . - . . . . . . . . . , . . , , 212
Skirt,FrontandBacl< ..... -......... 213
Kinono S l e e vSea . q u S e ,h d td l o n s D r e sG s ,o M . . . . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 4
Pdts, Fmntdd Bacl<. . - . . . . . . , , , . . . . . . - . . . . - . . . . . - . . . . . . - . . . . . 218

B o d i cF e r, o n t a n d B a c k , . . . , , , -, ., . , . . , , , . . . . . , , . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 224
Sleoe . . . . . , , . . . . . , , . . , . . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . , , , . . , , , , . . , , , , . . , . . , , 222
Sknt, FrontandBack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
P a t s ,l r o n t a n d B a c. ,k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - . . . . , , , , . . , , , . . , , , , , . . , 224
Bodice,Front andEact
.224
S l e e v .e. . . . . . . . . . . . .
.230
Skirt, Frcnt andBack
232
Pan|s,Front andBack

Bodice,FrontandBack.
238
S l e e v .e. . . . . . . . . . . .
Skirt,FronLandBack..
ua
242
Pants,FrontandBack..
244

Shnt,FrontandBa.k..
24a
Sleeve...............
25A
Panrs,FrontandBack..
252

l l

3.(
1..
5.t
IId

chit
 INTRODUCTION

Gradingnay besinrplydeiinedasthc i.creasingor de..€asingofaDattem accordrgtoa set

oi coresponding body nreasuFmenc Thc sctrct.f DroJcssional snding is to uderstandx,''r
thcbodyrcqutresthesechanges
Artioughnost manufa.Lurers lolloe th. diJfer.nccs in sizesasseLJorthin publicaLions bv
the NATIONAL BUREAU OF S:f/\NDARDS,nant havelound that slighi variatio.sJronl
Lhosemcasuremen ts aE .eqdie d lo r thcn Fadicular tyt c ol garnenr and thejr tvpc ot custoner'
The merhodsshdNnin this book are fundanentalmd orcc masterednrav bc variedat the
$ader sdiscretiono.Lhe mnufacnr.crsndeds
Thc a.ceDted nelhod ol gradhs a pattrfr i. to moYethe PiecebeinAgnded,ira.ing each
prcgressiye steDandthenblendinsthc ncw lincstogeth.r,usinsLheoriginalDattempi.ceasa
gnidelor theblendingofthe DeNlincs
Mechani.alequipnenr, suchasthc Dari. C.adonrctcr or thetlingedGradi.ARuie.nadebt
Clut$c Produciionsarewidelyuscdi. thcgarmentindustvtospeeduF theprocess oJgrading
TheseaidsarenotautomaLic a.d the smdcrn ststill Ln.w andnnde6Land lrherethc Fttern
Die.eis to bc .hansed.For rhesrudentol smdins,the onlvequipment nccessa!- is a flrlermark
;d in 1/L6thsof,n incn (ori. ccntinetersilthe metri. reasu'ene.c arebeinsused),eithera
righrangletiangleor anL squa.eandn sharphardleadpeocil.
Det;ileddncclionsare r{ircnior lTadingbdsi.patternpieccs. TheseshouLd beDBcti.eduntil
dreyare thorcughlylndestood beJok attenrpting lo gradc D.tcrns {iih nrorc detailedstvlc
lin;s Keepin nrindahvaysthat accu.a.yis nuch nore inportantthanspeed the speedNill
comeleithDF.tice.Besue io thoroughly checttheo.iginaI patternsbeJore startingtograde:
1. Eachpieceshouldbecheckcdasainstthep,.eorDiecesit*illbese\rntoinLhe.onpleted

and punchnrarks.Renembcr,these(ill be the onlt s des the

to $ide thcnrin plrting Lhesameni ios.theron.€ it is cut i.on the

3. Checks$m allosa.cesloraccuracy.
,1. A.e the grain lincs clearly indicated?
- Is thestylenunbcr,thenlnber ol piecesreqrnedto be.ut iron eachDat oJthelattern
andlhesizeoltheorigi.alp3Lier..learlyindicated?
lfthe sraderlailsb checkthc o ginalpatternandthereshouldbeanvenoE in it, all ol the
srccdeding patteflNwilLhavethe samcmistrkes- q hi.h canbe vcrv costlvto the comtanv,
citherin p.oductionor in loss{,f busincss duero po.r fiL For thesesahe reasons, eachncwlv
aradedsecti,,nolthe pattero shouldbe tcstcd asai.st thepreeiously
sraded pie.ethat it wiUbc
se$nto inthe cohpletedgarment
The.ehasbeennu.h dhcussion rccentlyaboutdtowingoutourpresentrangeof sizesa'rd
replncingthcb withsomc nc{sizesb^edon thcmeiicsysten If, andthen, Lhisshouldoccur,
thesane prin.ipleslorchaogiriga patLcrn f..n on. sizetoanoiherwillremaind1esane.
Standardizarion oI mens sizesin Anc.ica dcrelopedight alter the Ciil $Iar, about1365,
Jron thc neasurements oJ the sol.liersl'ho hadbeenindlcredinto the UnionArmv These
measurenrentsbecame Fa.l ol thc rccordsol the u.s. Bdrea!ofstaDdards andLheslaselias set
lor rhedevclopment ol.eady niade mcn\\car. The neasnrementsare updated abouterervlen
rcars to rcflectihe needed chanscs rn siTes
'lvomcnsandchildrensmeasrrcmcntsicrcaddedto rhestatisticsprepared by the Burea!
oi Standards and are also update.l abolr eYerv ten -rcars.
Chil.lre.s clothinsis sizedby ase. unlike orens clotbjnswhich is sizedbv chestcir
cumlerence orNomenslloLhingwhich hasanentirclydifierentsvsremdrathasevolvedlrom the
needlo lit a vanetyoI sizesandases.
 1vh€nJashionalle clorhi.gro.iomen wasii6t mmlJa.tu.edin thc U.S.A.,the sizinswas
partemedaiter the Eu.opeansystemof sing rie busLmeasurement ro deterninethe size.In
Europethene&i. neasurenentvasusedandin rheU S,tbemeasuren€ntwas in i.ches.'fhusa
size36, the ri6i s.nple size,litted a Nonan whosebust measured36 inclres.1 he lanems qere
grad.dtlvoin.hesper sizcin ctcuinferen.e,uDanddown.'Sronens sizesarestinreieredto

U.S. manufacturels duringthe 1920s leLtthe needior a neNandyoungertookinggarment

rvhi.hwascalled. Misses"of"Missy"sizeandsiyenanevsizemnsedestmrionol10to20.
The sizetrj, the sanplesize,wase{rualto the size36 Wonens'size but usedoneanda hau
inchesben\€ensizes.A Califohi! .etaileroi betterapparel hit trpontheideaoJchansinsthesize
tickets oJ their gannentsto one size larger. A size 16 fron their sio.e now iecan€ a size 14.
Otherstdressooncauht on to the ideaandenufacrlrers bega.sizingtheirsamentsupone
size.Whenwonen wereaskedwhatsizedrcssrheywore,the replybecane. A16(ora14oi
vhateve.)in a cheaper dress blronlya14(theneltsnane.size)ina befter'dress."Thelame
.'.or'npdunii'mdJr,c "np..."-r.N/..'"1g".,ndh,;oo-
tnesanen€asurenents rhatthesize16onc€had.
Inthe r930's,a newsizerangewasintroduced. the Junior"si?e.A souD of manulacturers
in St Louis, with the suFportandassistanceor a prosrcssivererailerandWashinstonUniversiry,
had obseruedthat there rvasa larse numberof young i on.n who were in besveenrle standald
Childrens sizesandrheadultMissesor $ onen s sires.
TneJuniorsizewasa younslisxreNith a hishcrandsmallerbusr, slinnerrlrorghthehjDs,
shorterwaistedandnorasiall asthestandard adulisizes.TlreJuniorsizesnnse adoliedtheodd
numbersin sizes,3 throlsh 15,to disringuish it fron theMissysizemnge.The samplesizeMs
size9 andthe slade dillerencebehv€ensizeswasoneinch.
sonehne hter it was n.ticcd that sone of theseJunior sizedsirls were be.ornins mature
adrlts without setting anx taller or lonse. lvaisted.Their lierres Nere roo tutt and too nature ro
lit into the Junior clotl:es,yet they were not iall enoughor longvaisted enoushro be properlylit
tedin tneWomens or Misscssizes. TIe Halfsize' or "CtrstonSize"wasinkoducedThesiz€
idrg.\dsiron ,. oao.^:\dh\oi ' 1c-r Dbp\"4.t"
The p,st Joty yean have seen tbe intrcdu.rion ol various otier size ranses - the luior
tctitc, the Petitc,the Tall inour conti.lins elfort to prodrce.eady.made clothinsrotit dv
Iisue, Ni th maoulactur€rs mki.g slight Mriati onsin rhen safrple sizesand/or their gradingto
acconrodatethe needsof their .$r.ne's. B. ! tht dilkrmt sx. tuns6 ale .a,stnated Iat dil
laft,t badr sho|6 or.t si2e:,]tu s/ader nN sta'| sith a taltaa nntj. tbn thetnut bluh hr !h.
si.?/a\1. b?.inE
E,e.bdond natntloifl k, sldde i | tu1oanrthu sizr nis., i.e.,d Mises to a J"nit al
 SECTIONI
WOI\4EN'S
WEAR
 WOMEN'SWEAR GRADING

Fislrer l showsa dressiormwith

:: aFas tnat are to be increased
o.
i<:eased narl€d in red. Ftlre 2r
::*s the* mdrs hansfen€d to a

-i-'-/f-i--r

---r----+-i--'1--
klr
-f--a---- ---i----.i----i---

f----1--
 By cul ting the patternapadon
thesc.edlinesand spreadingit
apart carctully in nreasured
anounts,tbe Datterowouldbe
inc.easedor sraded uP See
8P afin
By overlapping tbe Pattern
pieces. ihe Pattem would bc
decreasedor gradeddorvn

tuuU!
TMII 4TMI
TM!n trru
ll!!!!!
!m ! !!!!
 Obviously the cutting and spreadingor
overlapplnAol ach patt ol eachpatteh to
grade ir one sizeup or one sizedown w@ld
be lar tm time c@suming dd invite t@
huch chancelor end to be practical, The
sameauLt is accmplished hy movins the
lattem in a caefllly detemjned proges-
si6, dnwing ar@nd tte edgeol the pattem
at speciliedpoints a.d altd conne.ting the
varios points that havebeendrawn, check-
ins tne originalpiae asainstthe ne{ size.
Sturly the movementdjrectios (retu1-
ly. Tte sane noves are used for an size
.angs, only the anounts n@ed wil differ.
The first thing is to unde.stmd hN to
q4ute tne v&ids sradEsand then rerer to
the chart m paAe4 to se whd to usethm.
The th.ee nost conn@ lEdes sed lor
wome. s wdre knoM asl

1" c6de 1+ GEde

Th6e e!ad$ indicatethe diileuce in cir

cunferencelron on€st€ to the ndt at de
bst, Naisr md hip. ln someste @ges
tn€e viu be a cobbimtion of srades,i,e.,
thedifierencebetweena size8 dd a sizel0
il th€Miss4 si4 nnse is 1" (2,5cn) in cir
orJererce at thebust,vaist andhi! but the
diferencetetweena size12anda size14in
the Miss* size Ense is 11r" (3,8 m) in
cir@Jereq@in thesam€aes-
 GT{ADEDIFFERENCES
BET\! EENWOMEN'SSIZES

"\,z"r,i'r .i'r,,i'r,,l'
t25 rr\ mj (J.3.m) iJAlmr L33.mr (J3cmr

'\,
/'\,,/'\,,/'\, /-\, /''\
( 25 l m r 1 2 sl m r i r J
"mr (".s

'l),'i'.\,"/
BltlEs
/1,.J'
"),'11
""'r,..
/'""1,,./'o''l /"'"'\"../"0'n
", t5.0c.,
(50cm) 15.0cm) (5.0.n)

R
P-S M-!_Xl
Petite sha *T
(1) (63) I I
\,..// \,,,,/

!Es!-9r29
?'r
"i \r/ , \r/ /3oi
\r,/
15.0cn) (s.0.n) (5.ocn) (5.0.m) (5.0
\r/ \ ,r""\",/'"
'GeDerallya..eptedsampre
e
 l Crade- FrontBodic€

The front bodicerepresents onehalf of fie total gament cncunferen'e the baclibodice
.o...""iing trr" i"lt. wtten the lront bodiceis cut on the lold or hasa sead downthe'
,.li"ili-i tr" p.n*" *p*"ents onequdter or the totd cncunreren'e rn the clse oi a 1
"irt*
,,'"a". ir'u ri"t oi , t'-t uioi"" rvill onlvbe incr€asedor defeased%" {0 6 cm)in width The
' (1 0 cn)
:rang€in lensrhwinbe3/8

Al1 movesare mde fron squaredver

tical andhonzontalsradelines.In the cse or
a lront bodice,the center lront Mll sere as
th€ ve.tical smde line. To nale the honzon'
bl gr2de line, squarefr'on ure center l.ont
keepingthe line approxinately1" (2.5cn)
belowthe amscye ai the sideseam.
AJter the horizontalcmde line hasb€en
made,nake two marks on the edgesof the
pattem 1/8" (0.3 cn) ,rore tne horizontar
sade line and tne same distance apalt
Nld{e the sne two narks ,rloe tbe horizon'
tal grad€line. The ndks shouldbe nade or
both edsesoi tne pattern.SeeFicxre 4_1.
Refe. to the insiructiotu lunished vith
the equipnent on how Lonuk the pattern it
$ing a $ading mchine or a linged gradina
 ll a gradingnachine or a hingedsradins
tuler is being used the onty nark necessary
on ille paper is a line lor the centcr tront. Ir
the onlytoolsbeinslsed area squre a.d a
tuler it will be necessaryto draw a verticat
line, or il the pattem is nade on th€ told. to
fou rbe pape.Jor a ve.ticalline.Froh the
.entert.ont line or lold,squde a horizontal
sradeline app.oxinatety 2' (5.0cml longer
thanthe patternissideat thebustiine. Arl
point apDrorisatelyhau way betweenthe
ho.izontalsrade line and the .e.ktine or the
patteh, make {ou na.ks t/16 (0.2 cn)
apan. 1t B genenllya qoodideato h3ke
every other nark a bit darke. or longef in
odert keeptlack ofthe movesRepearthe
sne rour m.ks abourhajl rvay betweenthe
horizontal sradelineandtnervahtline!j the
lront bodi.e patt*n. ft G atsoa goodideator
oe8nners to draw aroLnd rhe orisinal !a!
tern on thc pape.,perhapsin a .onrmstjns
coror,so that the diifere.cesin sizenay be
readilyseen.Itnayalsobeot helpto purthe
directionalrines Up,DOWN,tN AUT
on thc pape. for qlick relerence As th€
graderbecohesmo.eexpe.ienced thesevil
.ot be necessaryThe paperon whjchthe
news'zeis beins@de sholldbeherdfirnrv
in placewith weights,pushpjnsor naskin;
tape.SeeFisrc 5l

.::
Patt€n Movemots For

If using a erading machineor a lringed

cmding tuld, negin alLnovemenb non O
ll sradins by hand, natch the pattem to he
Eradedto tle rertical md horizontal grade
lines on the Dreparedpaper.A small veight
may he usetul to hold the pattem in llace

lislre 6l showswhere the pattetu is to

benarked on dre pape.after eachmote.
(l) Move LF 1/8" (0.3cn) Usins the cut out
pattem as a 8uide, diaw around the
.ente. frcnt neck comer, about 1 (25
cm) oneachside.
(2) Move OU? 1/16 (0.2 cm) and a,P 1/8"
(0.3cm).Drawthesh@ldercomerat the
'
neck lor aboutL (2,5cn) on eachside.
(3)Move Oar? r/16" (02 cn) Besinning
'
about 1 (2.5 cm) lroi the mscye cor
ne. ol ihe shtuider, draw down to and in
chdins the sleevenotch..9. Nora? zt rr? o
enn aJ this chatter 11rherc is a .h1],det
datr, se Note2 at the.d
'
of thn chartel.
(4) More roltlN t{ (0 6 cn) Th€ pattem
vill be tack on the notontal gradeline.
Startins at a loinr just belo{ tne @cye
sleevenotch, dras to tne flat pari of tle
amscye, sloppingab@t l" (2.5cm)lron
the intersection ol the arnscye and the

(5) Move OarT't8" (0.3 ch). Tnis is a sood

checkpoint The pattem shouldbe on ihe
hortontal SYadeline and the full grad€,
{ ' (0.6cn) fion the vertical s€de line
Ddw about1 (2.5cn) on 4cI sideor
rhe amscye coher at the side sean. Ir
dere is a side bust dart, saaNrt4 3 dt lr.

(6)Move DOfi,N 1/8' (0.3 cn) Dnv the

sidesun corner ol the waistline
{7)Move 1N 1/8" (0.3 cm). Draw ure
waistli.e dart cmplete, i.e., the outer
.omes ol the dart and point of the dart.
S@Note1 at th. efi d th chaqtet
{8) Move IN 1/8" (0,3 cn) Th€ paitern
snouldbe back on tle ve.tical srade line
and r/8' (0.3 cn) belowthe horizontal
gradeline. Diaw rne comer oi the center

NI.si sraders.ur otrt rhe .ei parieirr
and usc ir to graderhe next sre, f.llownrg
exactlytlresane!rccedrreo. cachone.
It is lossibleto in..easethcsraderiice
L) doublinseachmeasurcnrnibut Leyond
that rhe pattembeginsto L.sc$e oisinal
p.opo 'onsan'lrt isbettcrrosmdeeachsize
IromlheFreriously gradci Darrern.
Pattern Nlov.fr ents !'or
To deocasethe sizeoi a Dattern,ihe
sanr.procedneis lollo$edas to inc.easejt
ex.dFt that the dtectionsare z,ard A
,O lt N movenentbe.omesan UPnove,an
/N movementbeconcsan OarTnove, etc.
'fhe paLlem
and paFerprepamtionis the
sanewhetlrerthe pattemis beinginc.eased
or dccEasedeaceptthar rhe /N and OU?
lreasurements are madeon rhe ouisideof
lr us'.s a s.adinsmachineor a hinsed
grad'ngruLer, beginallmovenertsfron 0. If
Fading !y hard, matchthe pa0em to bc
Jjradedto the ve.ticaland horzoncalgrade
lires on ih. r.cpared paper. FiSlre 8t
sh!{s whe.ethe patten is Lobe narkedon
theDaperaflc.cach movement
(t)Move,rrtlN l/3 (0.3 cnr. Di,w the
(2)Nlove1N 1/16' (0.2 .m) and ,OitN
1/3 (0.3cm).Draw the shouldercomer
(3)Move 1N 1/16 (0.2 cm). D.aK ihe
slouldc.corneroI the armscy.,downto
.nd includingrhesleevenorchSe.1lor 7
.1 'a .nd oI ntn .hart t lt thete is a
sna!\det Aart,y. Nat 2 at thc .nd Df thk
(4)-uovea?'1" (0.6.m). The parlcmnill
Le back on the h.rizontalgrade line
D'?w ircn just underthesleevenoichr.
lhe flat pait ot rhe ,ihscye, stopFjns
about1" (2.5cor)lron theinreisecti...r
theannscy.ardthesidesean
(5) N1{,vc1N 1/8' (0.3 .m). The prrtcm
shouldire back on the hodzoniatsrade
l i n ea n dt h . t u l l s m d e{, ( 0 . 6 . n ) f r o m
thererticll gradeli.e DnNt|eamrscye
conre.atthc sideseam.Ifttre.eis a side
Drst daft, y. Nah 3 al tht .rt 4 thir
(6) NloveaP 1/s (0.3cm). D.,w rhe side
sean(rnd oJtheMhrline
t7\Mo\e OU? 1/8' (03 cm). Draw tbe
waistline ddt complete. i.e., Lhe outer
edses ol the dart and the point of the
d^;t. se Nate4 at the4d al thischaqter.
rs) Move OU? r/3" (0.3 cn) The pattern
shouldbe bacl io the Yeirical giade line
and 1/8" (0.3 cm) above the horizontal
gradeljne. Draw the comer ol t]le c€nter

-[^j I
_lo
 lr: Cftde -!rodt Budice
in the ltl c.ade, tlre haU , r \ e . 1 r b o o , . .,q,.."'...t.-
cumierence andwill beincreasedordecreased 3/3" (r.0 cn)in width The changcs inthe bodrce
lensthsa rotatof3/8" (1.0cm),rema'nthc sane lor thd 1 (;rade,rhc rrr" Gnde andihe 2

AU movesare nade tom sqlared rer

ricalandnoriz.ntalgirde ttnes.'Drecenter
iront n ill serveastheveiticalgmdeli.e and
thc horzontal gade line is squaredfiom rhe
..ntcr iront coa po'ntapproxinatety 1, (2.5
.m) bclo{ the atuscr€ at thc side seam
Tv. nra.ks,r/3 (0 3cn)aFa.Land1/8,(0.3
cn) trcm the ho.izoDtaltinc, borhaboveand
belo$thehonzontal gradeli.e, wtll be need
ed at boihedgesol the pattefn.SecFigl.e
101.
ReJe.t. the instructions flnished kith \fill
the equlpnc.t on hoN to mark th. Daftemii
usinga gndinsna.hine or a hinsedg.rding

ft usins a g.adiDsmachine,a hinged

g.ad'.g ruler, 0. ghding by hand,draly a
rcrricalline fo. the.enrertront,or totd the
Dapo f the patter. is nade o. the Jold.
Fr.n the cenrcr lronr line or iold, squarea
honzontalgradeline approlinateltr2 (5.0
cnrl longe.than die Dattemis wide ar tha
bustline.ApDroihatet_\, hatJ*,ay berq,een
the horizo.talArade lineandrhc necklineot
the pattemmale threemarksr/8,, (0.3cm)
apart.RcDcatihe sane thrce narls aboul
half way berweenthe horizontalsade linc
,nd thc waGtlineoi the partern.SeeFig!, e
Pltten Movem€nts For

Match the pattem to the verfical ad

horizontalaradelins o. the p.€pa.edpaper'
Il using a Srading nacbine or a hina€d
grading tuld begin all movementsfrcn 0
Fieure 12 1 showswnere the pattem is to be
Mrked on the laprr alter eachndment
(1) Mde aF 1/3" (0.3 cn). Dtaw the come.
of th€centerfrontneck,
(2)MoveOar f8" (0.3cn) md a,Pt/8"
(0.3cm). Draw the sh@ldd corn€r ol the

(3) Move OU? 1/8" (0.3 cn). Dmw the ad'

scfe comer of ihe shouldd, down to and
inchdins the sleevenotch. S@Nor, Lr
the .nn af thir thz2tct. 1l thte is a
snollder drt, s4 Note2 at the 4d af this

(4)MoveDOWN vi'(0.6 cn) Th€ patteF

{ili h€ baclr on the lo."ontal sEde line.
Daw lroo just belo{ the sleevenotchto
tle ilat part of the atucve, stopping
ab@t 1" (2.5cn) lrcm the intersecnonol
the altrcye andthe sideseam
15)Move OU? 1/8" (0.3 .d) The Pattem
sh@ldbe on the htrizontal sade line and
the tul snde, 3/8" (1 0 cm) fr'on the vs
tical gade line, Dnv the dscve .omer
at th€ side seah, lf there is a side bst
dart,s@Natt 3 at lhe dd aJthit chtibr'
(6) Move ,Olt'N l/8" (0.3 cn) DnN the
sidesem come. ol the waistline
(?) M@e /N !L' (0.6cm) Dras tne vaisfi.e
dart conplet€, i,e., the outer comers oi
t]1e dan and the Point ol tne dart See
Note4 .t theendof th;t choPter'
(8) Move IN V8" (0.3 cn) The Pattem
slodd be back to the tertical gnde line
and 1/8" (0.3 .n) belo{ tne horizontal
sFde the, Dnw the coher or tbe center

Using the original patlem as a gntde,

hlpnd the lines at the rcct, sh. nds, am_
srye, side sdm and wistline The com-
Dleted pattern should be conlared with
Pattc.n ltlor€ments For
+o
The sameprocedurc is foll.{ed as for
increasing
the sizebur the dncctionsof the

Il usins a sladins n,.hinc or a hinged

sradins ruler, begi. all rovencnts lroh (] Ii

t
gradingby hand,mat.h the Datrernto be
gradedto ihe rerticaland h..izontalgrade
hes on the prelarcd prper.
Fisureu.1 showsrvlere the pattemis
tobe nE.kedonlhepapera{tcrcach move,
(r)Morc ,OtrN 1/8" (0.3cn) Dra* rhe
centeriront neckcorn€r.
(2) NlovelN 1/8 (0.3cm)androtyN 1/8,
(0.3cn). Drarvtheshould.rcornerof Lhe

(3)Move 1N 1/8' (0.3 cnt. Dra* rhe

sbouldercornerof thc annscye,downto
andincludingthe sle.rc 'otch. 5, N,ra l
a! tht rd 0f thi\ t:hat!.r \r Lheteis a
shor der Aaft,.re Nat 2 dt th. eatjof th^

(4)Move alP tr" (0.dcn). Thc palternwjll

be back on the lorizontalgradelincs.
Daw fron jL6t belo* the sleeven.ich,
stoppinsabout1 r (2.5cm)lron thc in
te.sc.l,onoi the armscyeand the side

(5)r4ovc 1N l/3 (0 3 cm) Thc rratreh

shouldbe back on tie loriz.nral grade
line and the flll grade 3/3 0 0 cn) Lom
ihe rcrti.al gradeline.D.ai thearrNq,e
coroeratthe sidcsean.If rhcrcis a side
bost tl^tt, v. Not. i tt th. md af Ut^

{6) Move i/P 1/8' (0.3.n) Draw the side

seancomerolthe{aisthe.
l7) M.!e OUT r/i (o.ri cn). Draq the
waistlinedart ..nplete, i.e, rhe outer
edaes ol the darr and rbe point oJ rhc
.tart. !i. Nob I a! theun af !his .h.rtrr.
(3)Vove Oir 1/8 (0.3 cm). Tne Dattenr
shouldbc backto the lerticalg.adeline
a 1/8' (0.3 cd) abovethe hdriztord
sradcline.Dra* thecorneroJLhecenter

. . q . m q r h c d s , m t p a t i e If i s J s r J e .
b n d r [ e r r n 6 r f h e n { k + o u d p r ,r n
and {aisdinc. The .om
trr.d piltd r shrdld hP lonrpr rd q rh
 2" Grade - Front Bodic€
onequarterol de totarcinnledc€
In the2" Gradetne hauor tbelr.nt bodicerepresenls
."4 uii ie it"."a,eo a""."",€d 1/2 3 cn) i. width The .hancesin the bodicelen8ths,a
(1
".
rotalol3/8"O.0cn),remainthesameaslorthe 1_1/2"
1' Gradeandthe Grad.

Atl moves a.e nade fron squaredrer

tical lnd horizontal srade lines. The center
Ircnt wil seNe as the ve$ical ende li.e and
the hdizontal sade line is squaredfron' the
centeriont to a point aplroxinately 1 (2.5
ch) tel@ the arnscye at the side sean, '
Tvo mrks, 1/8" (0.3cn) apartand 1/8 (0,3
cn) fron the horizontal grad€ line, both
aboleand nelos the honzontalsradeline,
\rill be need€dat bothedsesoi the pattem.

Refer to the instructionsfurnished\rith

the equipeent on how to mart the pattern if
using a eEding nachin€ or a hingedgYading

If not lsing a smdins machine or a

hinsedsrading ruler, DraN a nertical line for
the center font, oi fold the paperil the pat-
tern is made on the Jold. Fron the .enter
lront line or fold, sqlare a ho.izontal g6de
line approxinrately 2 ' (5.0cE) Io.Fr than
the paiternis wideat the blstline Approx.
imately hall way bet{een the horizontal
gradeline and the necklineol the pattern,
nake iou. narks 1/a (0.3 cm) apart, nak
ins the r/4" (0,6.n) marksslishtlylong€ror
heavie. to distinelish tnen. Repeai the
sme l@r na.ls abolt hall way behveenthe
horizontalsnde lineandthewaistlineoi the
 Pattern Movemenrs For

Match the patLcmto the verticaland

horizonblglade 'nesonrhep'epared paper.
lr us ns a gtudinq mJlh n. or 3 hinned
g.adingruler besinall novenentsfron 0
liF.e 1a.l showsihere rheFatterni,iu be
markedonthepaperaftereachnoveDenr.
lt) MoveUP 1/8 (0.3cnt. Drawrhe.orner
ol thecentcrlronL
neck o
(2)Mor€ OUI U3 (0.3 cm) and ap 1/8
i0.3cn). Dnw theshlulde.cornerot tle
(3) Ifove OUT r/3 (0 3 cn). Dra{ ihe ann
sc_\'ecotue..t the shoulder,
d.{n to and
ircludingrhe sleevenotch.S.. tot? L/
the ."d ti th| .r,p/, Il rhee is a
sbat\dctdart,tu Not 2atthe tndaJth^

l4l Mole rottl\ t/1 1U.6,m) Th( patrem

\ i l l b eb 3 l k o n f h eh n r i z o n r r l F a d n
ec
Dnr rron jusr beiov the sleevenotchto
the nat pa|t ol the armscydstopping
about1 (2.5cm)fr.m rheintersection or
thearnscyeandthcsidesean.
(s)Move oaz l/4 , (0.6.m). '1.hep rem
siro d be.n chehorizoniat qiadelineand
thetull gmde,1/2 (1.3cn)f.omthever
ticalg.adcline Drav theamscye.on€r
at the sides€an.Ii the.eis a sid. br*
d^tt, s@N)1r 3 dt |h..tu af thi ch.htel.
(rj) Move ,OttrN l/8 ' (O.3 cnr. D.aw the
sldeseancornerot tnesaistline.
(7)MoYe IN 3/8" (r.0 cm) Dnw fie
$dstline da.r comptete,i.e., rhe outcr
co'nes ot the dai and the poht oi the
daft. SeeNrte I at thee,tj oJlhis .huttet.
(3)Move 1N 1/8 (03 co). The patr.m
should be bach to the vertical qrad€ tinc
a.d l/8' (0.3 cm) betowthe horizontal
sradclre. Drawthecome..l rhecenter

Usinsthe origiel laitem rs a suide,

blcnd the liiresar rhe neck, sholLde.,
ams.yc. side sean and waisrlinc.The
patternshouldbe c.npared
I
comDLcted
Pattern Movements Foi
+ho
The ene pocedlre is lollowed as for
:icreasins tne size but ue dnecrionsof the

lf using a eradina machile or a hinged

snding ruler begin alL noves Lon 0. Il
eding by hand, Mtch the pattem to be
aaded to tbe yeriical and horizontal Eiade
lines on tie preparedpaper.Fi$re 201
:ho\s vlere the pattem is to he narked on
_&epaperalter eachnot.
t1)Move ,Otl.N 1/8 (0.3 cm). Dns the
I
'
12)Move /N 1/8" (0,3 cn) and rotltN 1/8
(0.3cn). Dnv tne snouldercomer ot the

l3)Mde IN {0.3 cn). Draw the shoulder

comer ol the anscye, dom to and in'
cludins the sleevenotch. Sa Nrrs I ar ,,?
.hd oJ this chaft*. 11therc is a sharldet
dan, sE Notc2 at theed ol thn &alte/.
Move
1,1) arPt4 (0.6 ch). The pattem will
be nack on the horizontal grade lrn€.
Dnw Los just below the sleve notch,
st@pins ab@t 1" (2.5 cm) fon tne cd-

(5)More IN 1/4" (0.6 cm). The lattem

should be back on the hrlzontal snde
linead thelul snde, 1/2" (1.3cn) lron
tle vertical gnde line. DnY tne amscy€
comd at the sideseam.Il there is a side
btsl datt, s.e Not 3 at the and oJ thts

(6) Moye UP r/8" (0.3 cn) Draw the side

sean comer oI th. saistline.
l7)More OUI 3/8' (1.0 cn) Draw the
saisiline dafi conplete, i,e., the outd
edgs of the dart and the loint ol the
dan. S@Note1at tlE endof tra .iatt r.
(8)More OU? 1/8 (03cm) The patteh
sholld l€ back to the lerrical sade line
and 1/8' (0.3 cn) above tne hortontal
gnde line. DEv the cmer ol the center
 Practi.eAradnrstlk In,nrbodi.. pattcn)
i', thf farious rarscs of 1 ,, ty: nn.l 2.

The lronl b.di.e is orc oi th. nDStdit

licult Die.csor thepatLcmrosrjdc Bccause
1tis alsoonc.i the mosrinipotuntareasol
the sa.fu nt ir s vnallyirlo'rxrt that il bc
{raded.orccilr-andrhatthepropcfprop!.
tron's m0lankd in all si,cs It is rrreltr
t.m p,..c that a scnerallygftdcd fi.sl and
c..h succeednig Dieceis che.kcdagainsrrtre
s'ad.d noDl bodicero insrrcconsNlency jn

FrcnLlacingsare senerallytracedJron
the .c{ Fadcd sizest{, nsure perie.t iit.
mai.taininsdrc sameNidrhat the shoulder
an'lccntcrastheorigi.alfacing.

Whena s.t.l pattems!Janyrr. grad.

hasbconcompleted md cuLour rhegradcd
paLtems shoul.lbe.arelully stacked*r rhat
tbe vcitical and horizlntalgiade lincs are
matchcdonall paLtems. Il thepattcmshavd
beeDcotre.ttysraded,it shouldbc possibte
to dra$ a straishtIineth.orsh tbc cone.sof
theva.ioussizesSeeFisrrc22l.

The
 FRONTBODICE
ChanshNins the movesin eachol the smdes.Refe.io the sectionson eachsizesradefor

o) UP DOWN l/8 (0I cm)

12) OUT IN
UP DOWN

OUI IN 1/8 (0 I !m)

DOWN

ol OUT IN

DOWN UP

\7) IN OUT l/8 (l0 !m)

(3) IN OUT 1/3 (0 3 cm) l/8 (0 3 (m)

ahe 3" Gnde, usedltun Mediun (M) to Large (L) andfron Large (L) to Eatra Large(xL) is
ac.odplished!y dr,rlt4gal neasurenenis in th€ 1 1/2 Gnde.
 l Crade - Bark Bodic€
HalJof thc backbodice'.presertsoncqund. of tla rtralcircumferen..ldbc g|aded.For
the 1' Cnde, thehall ol a ba.k Lodi.c{llheincrcasedorde.rerseal/,1 (0.ticn, nr wnlthand

'Ihe
re.ter ba.k yill sene as thc ver.
ticallradc li.e Thc honr.nralsrrdc tire is
squaredtrom th..cnter ba.k sotha. ir falts
rLorr I ',(2.5cm)beloRLbearns.r,e,t rhe

Alte, the horiTonral

gradeljnehasLeen
drawn..uketh.c. ma.ttso. rie edgcsoIthe
pallem:The l;sr marksare 1/3 t0 ij cD)
aboy.the lind: e secondmrks are 1/161i
1u.2dn)ab.r rhe f;st D.ks and j. ttud
marksare l/ltj' (0 2 cm) nbdr the second
marks.RcDeat tlE sane threenar ks lreloN
the grrdc ioe on borhedg.so1th. Dattern.

lIa grndi.gorachine o. Jhngcd grtrdinA

r!le. is bclnsusedit will.equireonL-a reF
tif al llne.rep.esenlinsthecenterbafk.
II g.ading bj hand, drn* a vcrr,cal
cente.lltr.klinc,or il the!ait.'n is madeor
the loll fold rhe paler f.r a vertiralli|e.
lrom the rerticalgrnd. linc, squa.ea lire
nLdlL2 ' (5.0cnr)Io.scr ihan dre $idLhot
Lh.parternacrossth. backai rheundenn.
Ar a disiare apF'dxioratel! hali Nay bet
\reen the horizonraL grade li.. and thc
necklne oI th. Fttcar Dake jour narks
1[6 (0.2 .nt aDaft,nnki.g every other
niaik eith.. darkefor longerto dishn$rish
tham Rcpeatthe sameiour nrrks abour
hall wal, behrdenthe horizontrlg'ade line
andthe {aisrlinc.l theba.k hodicepatLcm

For lracti.e Furroscs, natch dre

ong'naLlafiern to thevcrti.atandhoizontat
gude hres and dra{ arornd ir so thar fie
dllierencesr sizcinaybe readilyseen.The
dtrectionallincs. Lil, DOIVN. IN, OirT,
ma) aho b. DUt on the paper lor casy
Patten Movements For

Match the pattem to the vertical and

o
horizdtal gradelines on tne prepded paper. o
U using a grading macnine or a hinged
ending ruler, t€sin all noveneDts lron 0.
ligrre 2?-1shom where the pattd is io be
rdked on the paperalter eachmove,
rr)Move tF 3/16" (0.5 cn). Dnw the
I
.ents backcomer of the rcck.
(2) Move OP 1/16 (0.2 cn) and Oar? r/16 ' /
I
t
(0,? cn). DraF the sbouldercomer ol the
neclr.11dere is a neck dait, s.eN,r,2 dt \
o
l3)Move O{,? 1/16" (0.2 cm). Dav tne
amsye comer oI tbe shoulderdoM to
and incLudingthe bach sleeve notches.

I
seeNote I dt I8 md al thi.scha?ter Il
thereis a shouldddait,su Nrla2.tt t

(1) Moye ,Omr' t4 ' (0.6 cn). The pattem

vil be bac]ron the hodzontalEYadetne.
DlN fron just below the back sleeve
notchd on the amscye to a point about
1" (2.5 cm) frcm the inteF{rion oi dre
a@cye ald fie sidesean,
(5) Move Oarr 1/8 (0,3 cm). Checkthe lar
tem to nahe sre that it is onthe hdizon-
'
t21sradeline ahd tne n smde, 1/4 {0,6
cn), lron the vertical srade line. Draw
aboutr" (2.5cm)on eachsldeof $e dn.
scyecorter at th€ sidesean.
(6)M@e ,OfN 1/8' (0.3 m). Draw tne
sideseamcomer at the waist[ne.
(?) Move /N 1/8 (0.3 cn). DEw the
raisrline dari cooplete, inchdiry the
comes ol the dart andthe loint. S.eNott
4 dt tht endof this cwtd.
(8)Move 1N l/8" (0.3 cm). The pattem
shouLdbe back io the vertical Bradeline
dd 1/8" (0.3 cm) below ihe horizontal
gnde line. Draw the corner ol ihe certer

Using tle oricinal pattem, blend the

lin€s at the nect, shoulder, amscye, side
sean and waisdine- The completedpatr€m
shouldbe coDpded with Figue 28 1.
 PatteiD Movements For
o
The sameprogre$ion of nolenenh h
usedto decreaethesteas ro inlrede it but
o
oe drc.tuns rre re\etsed.Marchthe Dat-
rem to the preparedrertical and ho.izo;tal
gade !.es on rhe paper. FiEue 29 I sho\h
vn*€ tbe pattern is to be narked on the

(1)Move,OtrN3116, (0.5cm).Draw
the

k
cente. backcornerol rhe neck.
(2) MNe LAIrN 7n6 (0.2 cm) and
I,^/
vr6 (0.2cn).Drawtne shoulddcorn.r
of the nelk If thereA a neckdad. v.
Not 2at th.P|ttol thirdnb10.
(3)Move1N 1/16 (0.2cd. braw the atu
scle comeror rheshouder doq b and
inctudinglie back steevenorchesSe.
N"t?lot the.rdo! thh.hahk,
( 4 )M o v et ? v 4 1 0 . 6 . m )T. h e p a f t e m
w rl
De ba.t{ on the horizontt srade tine
Di rron rust beos the back steere
nooe-s m the hKle ro: pont aboui
nteEedon ot the
dnscye md rhesideseam.
(5)Mo'e /lr' l/3 t0.3 cm) Ihe pattem
snoubbeonrnehor;lnral rade Lineand
t h et u l ls r a d e1. / 4 1 0 b c m ) h o n r h e v e .
ti.at sade line. Diav the arnscye comer

(6)Move ./P 1/8' (0,3 cn). Draw the

side
sean cornerat the waisdhe.
\7) M@e OUT 1/8', (0.3 cn). DId the
wa's!1ne ddt conplete, includins rhc
cornersof the dart andthe point. s., N,r,
4 at ttu dn aJthn chabbf.
18)MoveOtl l/3 (0.3 cm). Ihe oanem
+ouid be backro ie verti(atnradetine
,nd t/3' (0.3 cm) rbove rhe hori,onbl
Sradeline. Dav rte corne. ot the cenrer

Usins the o.iginat pattem, btend tbe

lines at Lhe ne.k, shtutder, amscye, side
s€m andvaisdjne.The conpleredDattei.
shouldbecomparedwith Fift.e 30 1.
 l-1/2" Grade - Back Bodice
haft ol rh€ ba(k oodic" reD@lh o.p quand ol lhe Iotd circurJmnce
d e ( r e a v d 3 / 8l l . 0 m , . h " L o l a l c n c r x . r e b " P m d G I D P i n c t e d e d o r
renain the sme lor the 1" GEde, the 1 1/2" Ghde andtle 2" Gdde-

The center back wil be th€ verticar

aade line. Tlie nondnlal sade line is
:4uded frcn the c€nterbackab@t 1" (2 5
d) belowtle aftscye at the sides@
AJterthe norizontalsradeline hasb@n
drawn,malredr€e ffiks onUreedgesol the
oattem:The llFt harks e 1/8" (0 3 cn)
ib.ye tle linei the *cond ndls are 1/16"
il].2 cn) abovette liEt mrks ad the tnird
ndks e 1/16 (0.2 cn) abovethe second
ialks. Reteatthe eoe rhreemarkstelow
'.\e grad€line on bothedgesof the pattern

r a srading machineor a hiryed srading

nner is beins lsed it will requne only a
venical line, representingthe centerback
li sradins ty hand, diaw a lertiQl
coter hack line, or iI the patto b Mde on
the fold, lold the paper lor a vertical line
Frch the vedical grade line, squarea lin€
about 2' (5.0 cd) longer thm dre sidth ot
the patteft acrcssthe bachat the und€nm
At a dista.e approinately half wav
tetween the horizontal gade line and the
neckline on the pattem, nake tnree marks
1/8 (0.3 cm) apart. Repeatthe sane three
ndks aboutnalf way berNeetrthe honzontar
srade line and the vaistline ol the back
bodicepattem. SeeFisnre 32'1
 Patiern NloveDents For

Match the patremto the ycriic.l and

T:
horizontalgradelDes onthe prcDaredpaDer.
If uing i EraLl'ngmJ!hrneor a h nged
grrd'ns ruler Ucginall milcmenr\ l.on 0
Fislre 33 I sho{s {he.. thepatremis to bc
h.rked onthepaperaftercachnorement.
(l)Move ./P 3/16" {0.5 cn). Draw rhe
centerbackcomeroJihe ne.k.
(2)Move UP 1/16 (0.2cm)and OUT l/8,,
(0.3.n). Drawtheshouldercomer ol thc
neck.Ii thereis a neckda , v, Ahr.2 rr
the.ftdDJ1r's.hutt':
(3)MoveOU?1/3" (0.3.m).Drawrheatu
s.te corner oi dre shoulderdorE to and
in.ludilg the ba.t sleevenotches.S..
tuk t at tt{ ad oj thi! .haph'
Ii thereis a shouldcrdart,S.r lr/,r 2,/

(4)MoveDOtlN 1/4" (0.6cml.lte Daftem

sill be backon tjrehorizontal sradeljnc.
DaK lron just beto{ t|e back slecre o o
.occheson the tr'mscyeto a poinraboll
r" (2 5 cn)irom the intcF.iion ot rh.
amscle andthc sidesean.
{5) Move OLr 1/3, (0.3 cn). Check rhe
parern t0 mahesu.e rhrt ii is o. tbe
honzontalsradeline and rhe lull srade
3/8' (1.0 cn), J(n tte vdical;nd;
l [ e D r a va b o u1L" ( 2 5 c m ) o r e a c h s i d .
oJtheamscyecomerrt thesideseaf. ; ]'!
(6)Nlovc,O ,t/N 1/3' (0.3 ch) Dnw the
srdesean.orneratthewai$tine.
(7)Move /N t/4 (0.6 .n). Dra{ th. t1:
rvastlinedart completc,in.luding the
.omers of thc dartand the Dojnt sft rlirle
I at the.,.til th s.hrtt /
(8)More 1N 1/3' (03 ch). The patten
shouldbc backto rhe ve'ticalsradelinc
and 1/8 (0.3 cm) belownre hlri,ontal
Fade lire D.a$ rheco.neror rhe.e.ter

Using thc originalpatrem,blend th.

lines3t thc .eck, shoulder.armscye,sidc
.ean andiaGtline. The completed pattem
.hould be.ompar€dsith Fisue 34 l
Patt€rt Movements Fot
o,,.-
The sane progession of novenents is
rred to decreasethe sizeasto increasert but
:he dnecrions are etersed Match the o@
rartem to the preparedvedical andnoiizon
:al gtadelires on tlre prepaftd paper'Figre
'ri-1 shoss wbere the pattem is to be
aarked on the paperafter eachmovenent
11)Move,OttN3/16" (05.m) Dnv the
ccnterbachcomer of th€ neck.
r2)MoveDOtlN1/16" (0 2 cn) andIN 1/8
'
I
(0.3cn). Dnw the shouldercomer ot the
ne.k. lI there is a neck dart, s@No/e2 ar

13)Move/N (0 3 cn) D.aw the aimscve

.orner ol the shouider dom !o and r
cludingtne back sleevenot.hes S?.Nola
t 4t theendof Lhncha|te/
141Mde UP 1/4" (0.6 cn) The pattdn {ill
hp back on the horizontal grade line
Dra' the jst beloq the baclr sleeve
notcheson the dmscve to a poinl about
l ' (2.5 cn) Jrom the intersection of th€
amscye andthe sidesem
i5) Move IN 1/8' (03 cn) Check the
Dattem to nale su€ that it is o. the
ho.?ontal srade line and the iull Fade,
3/8" (1.0 cn), from the verti.al srade
line. D6v abolt 1 (2 5 cm) on eachside
of t!€ aftscye comer a! the sideseaF.
(6)Move aP 1/8" (0 3 cm).Dnw the side
sean corne.at the vaisttile.
i?)Move Oar t4" (06 cn). Draw the
waGtline da complete, lncludins the
cornersoI rhe dart a.d the point s., rr'ob
4 at thedd of this cha?ter'
(3) Move OUI r/8 (0 3 .nl The pattem
shouldbe backto the verticalgrad.line
and 1/8' (0.3 cn) betowthe horizontal
$ade line. Drav the corner ol the cente'

Using the ong:nal Pattetu, blend the

lines at rhe nec!. shoulder, amscve, s'de
rm &d waistline. The completedpattem
shodd be conparedwit]l Fisxre 36-1
 2 G r a d e- a a c k B o d i c !
ln the2" g.ade,half.l rhcbackbodiceeDresents onequarteroithetotalcircunfeien.ea.d
rvillbe increasedor dcc.cascd 1/2" (1.3.h)in Nidrn.The chansesin the bodicelengthwill be

The cente. back will be dre redicat

smde line. Thd horizontalgrade ljnc h
sqLuredlron rhc centerbackabout1 (2.s
cn) belonthc annscyeaLthesideseanr.See

Alter th. horizontal

gradelinehasbeen
dr3M, frakethreemarksontheedgesof the
pattcrn:The li.st narks aic 1/8" (0.3cm)
abovcthe lnte;the secondfrarks are 1/16,
(0.2cm)aboveLhetusr ha.ks andrhe rhnd
narls are 1/16' (0.2.n) aborethc se.o.d
harks. Repeatthe sanr tuee marks beloi.
lhesradelineonbothedgesof thepattern.

Ifa gradingnachineor a hingedgrading

rulersbeing usedit will requireonlya ver-
ticalhF, representinsthe.ente'back.
Ir gradinsby hand,d.a{ a venical
.enLerbackline,or ilthe pitrem is nade on
Lhefold loid the paper ror a rcrtical line.
Frcm the verlical sradc line, squre a line
about2 {i.0 cm) lonsertha. the width of
thepatiemacrosstheLackaLrheunderamr.
Ar a dNtance apFoxinratelyhalf way
b.$een the honzontalgnde line and the
ncckhe or the paLrem,nake four marks
1/3' {0.3 cm) apart. naking crry other
na.k either darker o. lonse. ro distinguish
them. Repeatthe samclour marksabout
half ny hetweenthc horizontalsEde line
andthe waistlineol thebackhodicepatteh.
Pattem Movements For
o
Ma!c! tle pattetu to the vertical and
horizontalSyadelin6 on fte prepr€d papd
If sing a erading machine or a hinged
gading ruler, beain all noveoents lmn 0.
Fislre 39-1showswnerc the patteF is to be II
maihedonthe paperalt€r eachno1e.
(1)Move a,F 3/16" (0.5 cn), Dne the l
centerback cotuer oi tne neck.
(2) Move gP t/16" (0,2 cm) ad OU? 1/8"
J
(0.3co). Draw the shoulde.comer ol fte
necl, II there is a nck dart, reeNo& 2 at )o
(3) Move OL4 1/8" (0.3 cn). Draw the @-
scye comer of tle shoulderdom to and
includi.s the baclr sleeve notcnes. Sd
Natt 1 at thedd oJth chaltet,
Ir dere is a sloulder dalt, sa No& 2 ,r

(4)MoveDott4r'U4" (0.6cn). Tnepattem

{il bebackonthenorizontalsradeline.
Draw rron just beloe tle back sleeve
noicheson ihe amscye to a loint about
1" (2.5 ch) lrcn ihe int€B&tion or the
amscYeandthe sidesm
(5)MoYeOU? 1/4' (0.6 m). Check ue
pattem to nal<e tue that it is on tle
ho.izontal srade line and the tuI lrade,
2" (ri ch), fron the vertical gnde
line, Dtaw ahout 1" (2,5cn) on eachside
of the aftcye come. at the sidesee.
(6) Mov€ ,OfN 1/3" (0.3 cn). Dav the
sidecomer at the waistline.
(?) Move /N 3/8" (1.0 cn). Draw the
waisuine dart complete, includins the
comersof the dart dd the point. s@Nor?
't at thedd aJthischattd.
(8) Move /N 1/8" (0.3 cm). The pattetu
sholld he back to the veitical srad. line
and 1/8" (0.3 cn) below the horizontzl
gmdeline. Dnv the coder ol tne cert€.

Using tne original pattem, bLendthe

rinesat tne necl<.shoulder,amscve, side
sean and{aistline. The cmpleted pattern
shouldheconparedwi$ Figue 40_r.
 Patter. Morements For
)
Thc sane progrcssiorol novcmentsjs
usedio de.reaserhe sizeas h increases it
but the direcLions are reve's.d Nlatchtbe
Datternto tbeprcparedlennalaDd honzon
tal gnde li.es on tle papc.. il using a
gradingnr.hine or a hingeds.adiDgruler
t
begin all hovenrentslroh 0. Figure 4t I
shorvssheE the patteh is bbe narkedon
tlreprperaflcfeachnove.
(1)MoveDOI',N 3/16 (0 J dn) Dra{ rhe
cente'bact cohd.ofthe Decli.
(2)I{ove roltlN lrld '(0.2 cn)and/N 1/3'
(0.3cr) Drarytheshoulder clmer ol th.
neck.lf rhercis a ne.t dat, r..]\nr. ?r/
'
f3l M,& 1N l/3 (0.3cm) Draw rhc amrscye
coner ot lhe shoulderdo$. to and in.
cludingthc backsleevcnotches5t? r\t/.
I a 1t h e . d a l t ] 1 'Ish a n k l
Ii thcreG a shoulderdart,r.a lnk 2 a/ o
(4) NloreL? 1/4 (0.6cm).Thc Dauen $itl
be back !n rhe horiz.ntatgrade line.
Dra* rrom ju$ belos,rhe bacr sleeve
.otcheson the arnscy. t. a poinrabout
1" (2 5 rm)jrcn the i.teme.hon!j the
anN.ye andthesid.scam.
(a) Nlove1N r/.1" (0.6cnt. Checkthe paL-
remtomakesrrc thatitis onrhehorizon
tal sradelin. a.d the full$ade,1/2 o.3
.m), lron thc verti.al smde li.e Dm*
abort l (2 5 cDtoneachsideofthe arn!
scye..rncratthesidcseani.
(d)Nt.yc a? (03 !m). Draw th. side3eam
comerat the*asdine
\7) Maw On 3/3 (l0 cm). D.ai the
wandind dart .ompLctein.ludins tjre
.orners ol the da.t and the point. S.. ,\brl
1 t t t h t. d o l ! h 6. h a p L t
{8)Morc Oar? l/8 (0.3.n). The paftc.n
shouldbe ba.k to the verical gr.de tjne
and r/3 (0 3 cn) abovethe h.rlzoDtal
r{radeline.Drawthe comerot thc cenre.

Us g the originalpattern,bld.d rhe

lines ar th€ ncck, shoulder.amscy.. side
seamandvaistlire The cobplctcdpattern
shouldbeconpared$ith lign.c .121
 AIter a set of patternsof any otr glade
hasbeen conpleted ad ot out, the graded
pattems shorid be cdetuIy stackedso that
the verticar dd ho.izontal srade lines tre
natched onaI pattetus,SeeFlglie 4 r.
 BACKBODICE
thenovesin eachoi rhesrades.
Reicrto de s e . t i o nos ' e a . hs z e Ea d er u r

MOVE

UI DOWN
(2) UP DOWN_
OUT IN
(r) o!lT IN r / r 6 _( 0 2 1 m )
DO\\ N UP

OUT IN l/8 (0irn)

(6) DOWN

Q) IN OUI
(8) IN OUI 1 8 ( 0 . 3! m ) I8 (03 m)

I a

i
\'--

o o

Th" t CtuJ(.. "drro1\,tpoua,\l,roL.e" L," dr,o1Ld,sc,t . LIr -.-r\X1,,.

a .ompFnao D ]d o r 0 . r s r - , o . L r e n
r .r. 1.1". tz Cadr
Notes
Notes

Th

3/a"(r.

AII

71r7

Rd
 1" Cr.de - F.otrt Skin

The front skirt repreknts one hall ol tle total sment .ircunrJerence- the back skirt
pDresenr.ls.fpor'eh,Lwn"nlhehor',k'n'ror'l'dfoldd\2<rsermdoqr\e'elPr
r d . . . h e D a . " m . F p ' e s d *o n eq u a r e ro t e ' o d l l r f e r P t e l 1 | P I a n d e t h eh al o J d
iiont skirt will be indeased or decreased1/4 (0.6 cn)' in vidth The chanss h lengt! FiI b€
3/8" (r.Ocm)ior a stilt endinsrmnd the kneeand 1/8 (0.3cn) morelor a floo.lensth skirt.

AI noves are made lrm sqMred ver

'fhe
tical and no.izonlal grade lines, center
jront ol the slnl is usedas the vedical Erade
lne Tne honrontal gnde lin€ is squared
lrcn tne cent€r lront in the hip as, about
?" (17.8 6) telow the center lront waist.
Nter the horizontal gade line has bed
@de, mke t\vo Mrks on the edgesoI tne
pattem 1/8" (0.3 cm) abore the line and the
same distance apart, Male the same tvo
ddks below the hoizontal snde line. The
narls sh@ld be oh toth edg6 ol the pats

Refer to tne ichcrions lumished with

tne equipnent on hov to hark tne pattem il
usins a €]?ding m.nine or a hingedsading
 If a sndiry nachine or a hinsedsrading
ruler is beingusedit *ill not be necessdyto
n:Lle any marks on the paperon vhich the
rcv sizewil be diaM qceDt a vertical tine
lor th€ centerJro.t. It giading by hand,both
a vertial and a horizontalsmde line will be
n€eded.If tne parteh is madeon the lold at
center lront, lold the paper lor the veltical
grade line. F.on the center line or lold,
squae tne horizonlal grade line approx
inately2" (5.0cm)lonserthan thepatt€rnis
vide at the hipline.At apointapprdimately
halJvay between tne norizontal grade line
and the wahtline on the pattern, nake folr
narks 1/16" (0.2 cm) apart, maldng every
other ndli stighdy lonAeror da.ker. Repeat
the samef@r marks alort half vay between
the honzontalsrade line and the h€nline oi
th€ front skirt pattem. SeeFisxre 4T 1

:\
 4:
"€;
E=-*r F a
l"
€-
_ssEiaE
5 9:!
Et
P; i?:.! !
sE!i;E;
i!< 6oc:

oc
it
o

e*
o
:ei

glliisifiiai*?rl
isiffiiBEi* ic
iEiiiEig l

iEFiEi';scliii;sg
E I
o

:!

:j
 1-1/2" Grade' Frcnt Skirt

.i;r:.rJ;id ii:,51:i::t;Flilit".+it;i$.i:ffi#iil1rt;
fi3f:^ ITi rhe
and
-,1t"'#?-"ji;:"1"';rJ";"'H,lif :Tl,:l'';'aadF 2 G-rde

AI noYes are nade non sqwetl ver

ljdl eil horizonhr srade lin€6. The center
nont *il serue6 the aertical eYadelin€ dd
:he ldizontal sade line is squarediDm the
center lmnt at a poin! approd@tely 7
117.8cE) belN the enter trclt wai.t. Two
'
aar1s, 1/8 (0.3cm) apart and 1/8" (0,3 ch)
ird the hori@ntal sade li.e, both ab@e
andbelN it, vil be neededat both e(q6 ol
_.5epasem. SeeFrg!re 52-1.
ReI€r to tle instructions fmished eitn
$e eqdpm€nt o! ltow to ndk th€ patteh ii
usinga srading nachine or a hinsedsndins
 Il usn{ a smdins machiDe, a hi.ged
gradingruleror sradingby hand,dra$ a ver
tical line lor Lhecente.Jronr o. tuld the
Daper1l the pattemis madco0 the tutd. I1
gradhgby hand,a lonzontalgnde linei,il
alsobe.ecessary. Thc hoizonialgradelile
is squa.edfroD the ccnteriront lineor lold
andshouldbe ab.ut 2" (5.0.m)l!.ser than
the lattern is rvideat the hiDline.App..x
imately half way betNecnche ho.izontal
gradeline a..1the *aistline ol the pattcm,
nake thrce narks 1/8" (03 cn) apart.
Rcreatthe Mne threenarls abouthallway
betweenlhe norizontalg..de linc and rbe
heDhreoI thc i&nr slnt pattem.SeeFigue
531.
 [i
a4

Os.-

I
o
;

I ':

E;:8"3 g g;E.* EE! gE FEgE :!E

c.i!! :
rc; EEFE 83E
:q+i.!': 3 : EE
--;i
Ee:E gE; As:.;'E€€EH;! :!H A
E€E-.
Eg:a 3;.E ?+E;€JE=-:E'E:
e E;;
: E!:! r€ii ir-tislsE:Eq
sEEi
: j,."{t
igEic'-:Ec E iEii'= :si*a* ii€i:
!.!r,{E9E.E81 i l F{ . E : i t i c: i 'I ='
l? ig!
s; : L";
:?,"-'s! E6"8f,
E .i.g; -a: .3: ; ! iE.:i=;3_i;i t i ii s::i;i;i
iBjFei:!!i iifr a:iEiEi;ilF=ec it: Ei5q
I!-:EE:'*E: : n . E E:;
Egiii
iiE'iiffEili
iiEiFiieEE
i_ o

s1 j
o
L-

d
 2" Grade - F.ott Sknt

In the2" Gnde, thena]f ol the jiont stilt represents

oneq@ri€rol thetotal citunidence
' (1
-a *iU l" ln"ta*a or Oe*"u*d 1/2 (1 3 cn) in tidth. ahe kngth changdde 3/8 0 m)
nr thekne lengths!i!t andt2" (1.3cs) lor thefloorlengthskin.

Ali doves are mde fron squred ver_

tical md hdizontal etade lines. The center
lront wil sene as the nert]calsradeline and
rhe horimntal Fade line is sqlaied lrm the
center iront ab@t 7" (1?.8 cn) below
'
the
centerlrclt Mist. Two narks, 1/8 (0 3 cm)
aDartand 1/8' (0,3 cn) lrom th. ho.imntal
Fade line, boih above ed hel@ ii, t be
;eeded at bot! €dges ol the pattetu See
Fisure 581. Reler to the instructions tur_
nisled with the equipnent on how to mark
ihe pattem il using a giading nachine or a
 lI using a sradinanachine,a hinged
sradinsruleror sradinsby hand,d.awa ver
tical line ior the center iront ' or lold the
paper il the pattern G nade on lhc fold. 1l
eradnrsby handa lorizontalsradclinewill
also be necessary,nade by sqnaringa line
Lom the centerfrom lof a distanc€abouL2 '
(5.0cn) longcrthan the patternis wide at
thehiplinc.Approxinatelyhallwaybesreen
the hodzontalsrade line and lhe Naistlnreol
the pattem, nal{e Jour marks l/3 ' (0 3 cn)
apar1.Repeatthe samelour narks ,bour
halJ way between the horizontal g.ade line
and the hemlineof tne ironi skid pattern.
 o

J
o
13

lrsls
ft*laa*ili
i'iaHeiri€fi
 ii!*;;ii;;lF;g;ry
:1Eii;iiiiiii
i
R
6

LJ
o

!-
I
 When a set ol Pattens ol any dt gnde
basbeen conpleted md et out, the gEdeit
Dattqnsshodldbe strck€dso that ilie veF
iicl dd hdzontal qrade lins are malched
onallpattetu. lf t}e patlemshauebeencor_
rectly sIded, it shouldbe possiblelo draw a
skaisht lrn€ tlrough the corneE ot rhe
vaiious slzs. SeeFtu€ 64 1
 FRONTSKIRT

mor€sin eacholthesradcsReieitothesectionsoneachsizeeradeiof
Cha.tshosinsthe

!o\tN

\2) OUT IN r/8 (03 Ln)

(3) our' LN

DOl\'N

6) DowN_
| ur

IN OUT l/8 (10 .m)

t,/ H o! s,,
 Thenoyesw b€thesaDeona slin or fla.edsknt

(L) ()(I-) is
The3 G.ade,usedfrod Mediun(M)to Large(L)andfronLarge to E tra Large
acconplishedby dorblins all neasurementsin the l_1/2" Grade
Notes
Notes
 Rr\CIi SKIRT'
'l
heLafk nrirt n sndcd ln thd ' ' r ' . r ' r 'jlrPL,l
''re.1r, Jion( ll.f.(.uftingour '.
"\"
l--o'b..l:'.1 ..' ol dlerotr
sknr a{aiNt tln bacliar tlre side " , ' \i., ,._", rl, ,.rl
(xisthDeil th. bodi.cis (oLese\fn

Lrl' t)o\\\
I\
'I
oli I IN

DO\fN ff

Do$INI LP

l\ oltl
 Thenovesail belhesameon,sl mornedsknt

TIe 3" Fade, Ned fron Medium(M) to Large(L) andlmm Ijree O) to ExtraLrse (Xl,) is
:.comptisledby doublinsaUn6urem€nts in the 1_1/2Grade
 N\lcI B\\O\ fORsl p.\RCTt :ktRTiORl,\NIS

Wristbandsslould bcgradedaJtcrtheskri..lanrs ha'c beengradedsoihat thcgraderwitl

knoKhdwnnL.hLoincrcase ord.crcaseLh.raisLband io matei( tiLtheskiforFaots Waistbanrl
cxfensions
remainLhesane lcnsrhIo. all siz.s r,L$ the earensilnneedsro bc tcn8the.edor
shorteneddueroa desig.d.rail.
{aistbrnds remainth. sameNidrh
Certci Ba.k OpeDingW.istbands

ou'r' 1r- 1/,1(06 ml)

| I
t2\
OUT
(3)
I IN

Cederfiontro sidesea;

-_ loLr I rN I
- t-----_J r/2 (l I lnt
(1) Silleseamr. cenierb3.r
Jour I 1N i l/4" (0.6on)
l

tigt,cil l
Side SeamOp€ning waistbands

\2)
I IN

ou'r' I rN
;
l ;ffi;; I IJ .mJ

otT IrN I

our IrN I
Cent€rFront OPeningWaistbaods

t*ilf.rd** 1/2 (l J cm)

our I IN r/4 (0.6cm)
I|--.1-
ti2) si
I OUT I IN
(3)-c
loUT IIN I 1/4 (06cm)
S rtDotch not includingerteNion
3i8"G.0cn)
I our I IN I
1/4"(0.6cn) |

h
C o n r o d - o . . E r b d l d a 6 d n gY a v b " " h d l r F d b r ' ! d n i ' dd"*iT:;-#ii:;'.T"tr"|l:
glhedppopriatan@nrs_ou
-airli*,i-tu,a.",ii..,rl'sih"san".'deand{d,n
sidese
, ode.t amounlb€tseen
i+7.
Notes

:!r'(

fr6
hirl

AI

TI
Fror
D

tdi
 SLEEVE

Be.ausethe .haryes in the dNcYe'

@
:ne ftont and back bodice in the 1 Grade
:id in the 11/2" Gradeat tne sane, the
:leevesarealsosEded th€ sane
Tne sbeve width sm be cbanseda total
ri 3/8" (1,0 cn) for tne bns sleeveor three
:larter length sleeYe.Short sleeves, i.e.,
:inve the €lb@, are not geneially8:rded in
:.nsth lron the @d€nm dNn btt onlYin
:ie heighthol the sleev€cap

At noves are nade iron sqMred ver_

:ial and hmzontal sade lin4 The enin
:inenay 6e usedasthe tediel SYadetine on
1 sleere that is cut on the straiglt of the
iabnc. If the sleevels Mrked to be cut on
:he bias, a rertical grade line as @p6ed
:o a gnin line - ryill have to te stablished
rr squarinsa line np ed doM, in de nid_
ile oI the sl@re. f.on tne norihntal smde
ie. The horizontal giade line is squred
::on the verti.al snde line sothat li is atout
! (5.0 cn) belowthe corner of the intersec
:ion ol the sleeve cap and the under@
:ed. If fie snin line on the sleevecannot
r sed as the veftical sYadeline, Mrk tne
'.onrontal sade line first !y m€asudng
:oM 2" (5.0 cn) lron tre comers ot the
.leeve at the uderdm ald then squeinC
re vertiul lrade line frm the horizontal
'
Fou. mrks wil be reeded oD the liont
ad hack edgesol the sleeveapart.Make the
lae lour @ks below the horizotrt l sade

Reler to tne instructions tumisned tith

:e eqlipnent on iow to mark the paitdn it
iing a giading nachine or a hinged$adinA
 l t d ! r a d n gm { h i n p o r ah r n g e d E nndA
.
ru er i oeinausedrt $r notbene!e$a.r b
n&e any m.ks on rhe paDeron lehi.h rhp

.. Il sradingby hand,drawa ,erticals.ade

he approx'nately2, (5.0cnl longerthan
tne qee\e rnd : honronral s ade ine
:lprox'harel) 2 150 .ml lnEer rhan rhe
npeveu side ai rhEhorzonratgrade ne
U n e a l hr d e o l r h e\ e r r i . J l a j a d e
rnearthe
top and bottonr, draw th.ee ve.Lical lin€s
1/16 (0.2cn) lrom the vcrticalsradcline
and the sne distameapan. See Fig!.e
Patten Movem€nts For

Ll usinsa srad nS machineor a hinged

-radrnsruler, be8n all mdes lrcm 0 Ji
:.ad,; bv hand.maLh rhc p:nem to be
{aded io the !dol and honzoitalsrade
linesontheprepared Paper'
Iigure 77-1 sh@s wherc the Patted is
,n b. barked on the Faperatter eachnove
Th€ frmt hau ol the sleeve will be
(m'
5r?dedfirsi Whenthe lroni hrs been
reted fullow rhe
mdina thebalk haltot thesleeve noting
.he.h;q6 s thediEcl,onsot$eO!I and

rr) MoveUPV8'(03 cn) Mdk tne celter

notchon the sleevecaD D.aw ahout2'
(s 0 !m)on eachside
lrj Move 'OWN
1116"(0.2ch)
clp notch€s --
rn6"
Draw
ofthe.enternotch
r0.2.m) and oul
fron thea.eaor the
but do NOT dmu the
1. ,l
x,l.r.s ro the lower.une, abodi1
(5.0cn) lron thec@e. oi theunderarn
t3l M@erorlN 1/16"(02 cm)andOU?
1/8'(0.3cm) Thepaiterh should beback
m the noizontal s'€de line and 3/16
(0.5 cn) Iron the vedical srade line
Dras' the unde.am come..ll gndins a
sh6r slede, se. NatN6 dt theendaf th
I
ulM@e DOt4tNr/8'(03 m) Draw the
elbow a.ea, including anv notches,ddts

It M;ve rotlN 1/8" (0 3 cn) and,aNl/16"

10.2cn). Diaw the wnst com.r or ure

Il gradi.g a st.aight or fla.ed sl€evc,,ee

Nott 7 at theendoJth;t crnllat
Repeat entire prccedure to grade the

Alte. the lront and back halves ol the

:leeve have been $aded, blend rne [nes ^t
rheMp, undera@ seamandMist Using t]le
oriqinal pattem as a 8xide, dak€ the t.ont
dd bacti sleevenotcheson the new patlm
.J\esamedistece non the centd notch as
'n the origirMl. This will naintain the
.orect anount oi easebetween the sleeve
rotchesandthe bodicenotcnes
Pattern Moven€nls For

II usinga sradinsna.hinc or a hinged

gradingtuler, beginallmovencntsJrom0.It
arading by hand, mat.l th. Dattemto be
gradedto the verticaland horizonrat grade
lines on the lreDaredprp.r. Fiartre78.1
showswherethc patterni. to bc markedon
thepaperafLereactr dore.
(1) Move ,lrtlN 1/3 (0.3 c.t. r,lark rhe
the slcevecap. Dn$
abort 2 (5 0 cm) on cach side or thc

(2)Move {/P 1/16 (0.2 ..r) and,! t/16'

(02 cm).Draw rion the aiea or thc cap
notches,but do Aa)TdraB the notches,
ro rhclowercrrvc,about1"(4.0cm)Jron
ihe comerof th. underann.
(3)MoveaP 1/16 (0.2cm)and1N t/3 , (0.3
cn). The pattcrnshoutdbe backon ttre
horiz.nLalsradeline and3/16" (0 5 cn,
tr.n rhc rcrh.al lrade line Dra\{ Lhe

Il gradingashortsleere,s,?IrL lt,r /r?

(4)More arPr/8 '(0.3 .n). Dmrvrhe elbo$

a'.aj ,ncludfg a.r notches,darts o.

(5) Mlre ara t/3 (0.3cm) and Otr 1/16

(0.2 c't Draw rhc wrist c.mef ot thc

Ilsraddinga sbaishtor flarcdsleev..r..

Natu7 dt th..nd al thisI h@!.1
R.pert cntire p..ccduie to grade Lbe

Altci tlt lront a.d back hrtvcs oI rhe

sLcer€srrarcbeenlaaded,blendthe li.0s ar
thecap,unde.amseaband{rist. Usinstie
ong'nrl parLenas a eliic, nrakethc tront
aod back nlrhes on the ftw rarrerDth.
samedistancef.om the .enrq notchas on
 Tne sbevewid$ N be chanseda total
or 1/2' (1,3cn) at the hic€pand 1/4" (0 6
cn) at ihe wisL The sl€evelenst! w ne
ch,nsed a total of 3/8 (1 0 cn) ior the long
o. three quarter length 8]eeve,The short
neeyewil chaqqeonly in the heighh of the
ap bur not in lenSth lrm th€ underaim

Pattem Preparationi
AI noves aie nade loo sqwed 1d-
:ical and horlzontal rrade lines Tne guin
!i.e Eay be useda the veltical sradeline on
I steevethat is cut on the straiglt of the
iabnc. ff tne sleeveis ftarked to be dt on
Jre bias, a vertical srade line - as oppo*d
:o a srain line - oav he estabiishedbv
.quan;sa hneupanddoq. m theflddle ot
:he sleevefrm the horizontzlSradexne
Tne ho.imntal gmdeline is $qua&dlion the
rertical giade line so uEt it is ab@t 2" (5 0
.nl below tne come. of the inte$ection ol
ne sleevecapandthe underaft sem.
Fou darts wll be neededm the ndi
dd back edsesoi tne skeve pattem, 1/16'
r(].2cn) abovetle hdizontal sxadeline ad
:he sane distanceapdt. Make the sane tour
.arls below the hdizontal giade line see

Refer to tle instructi@s Imisltd with

ihe equipdent on how to nark the patteb ii
usins a srading machineor a hingedsading
 l l . ! i d n qn r r l r n l i r a h LL e ds r a t ln g
. j l a j ! b e i , ! u s d t u l l n . t b en e ! e \ \ i n m
makcan! nu ks on the rap.r or *hjch the

ilgradingby hard.d.awa rerricalsrade

iineaLout2 (5.0cn)lonscrthanrhcsleeve
andI hlrizonralgr.de LiDeaboui2 (5.0cn)
lo.gcr rhcthesio.r. iswidearthehorjzonral
sradetine On cachsiddor theverticalsrade
I'neat fie t.pand bo om.dra* tourye.rical
lines1/16 (0.2cm) |on tire vcrLicatgrade
illrl
lin.3nd Lhesamedistance ap.r. Scetislrc
80.1

il
Pattern Movemeits For

li using a grzding iacnine o. a hiry3d

sddins Nler, b€sin all m@es lion 0 ff
qrading by hand, natcn the pattern to be
sraded to tbe v€Itical and nonzontai grade
linesonthe prepa.edpape..
Figlre 81 1 shows*here the patted ts
to benarked on the paperafter eachDove.
The lront hall of the sleeve vil be
saded li6t. When the nont has been com
pleted, lollos the same directions lor
gradins the back ball ol th€ sleeve- notine
lhe chansesin the directionsol the OUT and

{r) Move UP 1/8" {0.3 cm). Ma.k the center

notch on the sleevecap. Dnrv about 2"
(5.0cn) oneachsideol tne centernotch.
(2)MoveDOWN 1/16 (0.2cn) ad OU?
.l
1/16" (0.2cm). Dlm f.on the are of the
c p norcfus da NOT dtou thenatchE
- to the idver cure, about 1 ' (5.0 cn)
fron the corneroi ihe undenm.
(3)MoveDOrTN 1/16" (0.2cm) and OUr
3/16 (0.5 co), The patternsh@ld be
back on the honro.t l grade line and
1/4 ' (0.6d) froh tne vertical snde line.
Dmw the lnderarn coher.
I
r gradinga snoit sle€te,5a?No& 6 dr lrz

(.1)Move,OtlN 1/8' (0,3 cn). Draw ure

elbow a.ea, includins any notches,darts

(5) Move ,Owlr' V8" (0.3 cm) and IN (0.3

cn). Draw tne {dst come. or the sleev€
tl grading a stnisbt or flared sleeve,sa,
Nate7 at thedd ol th6 chaltet,
Repdt entire procedur€ to srade the
5ack half oI the sleeve.Aiter th€ lront and
sck sleeve have b€en graded, blend the
lines at the cap, undenrm sean and wnst.
tisins tne o.isirnalpattern a a suide, dake
:ire tont and back sleevenotcheson the nev
srem the sade distanc€ irom the center
rotch as on the original. This wiu maintain
:he corect amount of each b€tween the
:lee\€ notchesand the bodicenotches.
Palterr IUoYrmcrts For

lf usinga sradnrgnuchire or a hiiged

sradingtulo bcirgall novetu.nGtroh 1].It
sradnrsb hand,nralchth. ratteflj !r be
grad.d to thc ve.li.calandhorizortalsrade
lincs .. the prpared paFcr.!'igur 8, I
sh.lvs \fhere the Dafte.i is b be mr.ked on
tbt DaDcr altdreachmor.
(1)N'Iovc,O r1l\ 1/3 (0 3 .or). Nta.k the
ccntcr roLch or rhe slecvecap. Dran
about2 ' (s.0 .nt .n cach side ot thc

I
(2)I'lore tP 1/16 (0.2.h) a.d IN t/10,
(0.2cn). Dray n.on the arcaol thc caD
notcnes,but do NoT draN rhe nolches.
abour1,, (50 ctrt
tron thc.orneiol rheundeiarn
.l
lt"
(ir)r't.r LII ]/1tj (0 2 cm) and /N 3/16.
(0.5cm) llre palternshouldbe lra.tron
tlre horizo.Lalsradeli.c and 1/4, (0.6
cm) Ironr lhe verti.ll sEde hre Drar

Il $adins a short stcere,Jc.N,/. dal /t.

(4)\'lo!e i,P 1/3' (0.3cm).Drawthe elbov

area. n.ludi.g nny nlrches daris or
I
(5) Moye t? 1A (0 3 crr) and Of7. t/8.
(0.3 .n . Draw the ryrist comer of the

Ilsradnrga slnislrt or llaredslecre.ro

Nat. 7 a] Lht.Nl af this ehnt,t!t.
Repeatentire Froccdureto snde rhe
 Aiter the lront od back halves 01 the
sleevehavebeencmded,blendtne Ifts at
theLap,undemrmseam anJwflst Osingrhe
origimL pattem as a glide, nate the fmt
and back notch€s on tne new pattetu the
sme distancelrom ure center notch 6 0n
the @sinal sleeve.When the pattems have
been lraded, clt out and stacled to Mtch
the Erade lines, they slould be cmpared

ll sradinga shortsreene,re, N,/e 6 at themd ol thischattet

I1Fadinga straighto. naredsree\e,w Nate7dt thedd al thk chaqtel.
Separate sleeveclifs are noi generallysradedin heighthbut will be snded in lelsth 1/4"
10.6cn) to natch th€botton edseof thesleve. The 1/4' (0.6cn) ror eachsire appli€sto the 1"
'
Grade,1.1/2"Gradedd 2 Grade.
 SLEEVE
shqvmgLhcnNes m cachofthe grades.Reter10the s..ri.s or eachsizegnde
ior
dettlra
Thc movesa sivor nr ibe tro.r haf.l the stecre.,],og,artcrhebacLhali of rhc
. .. slee,c.
n,lovtlreerft dirednnsjri(jr lor Lhei.oot norjngrhecharg.sin thedic.tjons .f the tN
anj

UI
(21 DO\IN
OLT IN

oL'r' IN

(r) LI
(-) DOIfN UI
]N

tl
il
No t.es
 r" Grade- FrontPants

One half of the JronLFlnts repesents

on€quarter oi the total ciicunfe.ence. In fte
l" Gradethe quarterof the panlswill be in-
creasedor decreased 1/4 (0.6cn) in {idth
at thewaisLlineandhiplineandanaddiLional
1/8' (0.3 .n) aL the inner crot.h. The
changes in lengthwill be, 1/4' (0.6cb) f.on
the waisrto &e c.otchj1/8' (0.3cn) f.on
crotchto knee:1/8' (0.3cn) llom kneeto
antl€. Directions are siven for lons pants ts r03
i e , extendinslrom Naistlineto anl<le.

All noves de mde lrom squaredver

tical and norizontal srade lines. The sain
line nay senerauybe used lor the vedical
grade lin. blt only if it is squaredNith the
henline. ii the Erain line is noi squaie with
dr hemline it {ill be nccessaryto dev a
ne{ vertial gradelin€.The horjzontal sade
lineis squdedfron theveliicalsradclineto
a pointapproxnnately 2" (5.0cnrbelowthe
lront .rotch cornerand then extendedto the
outer hip. Arier the horizontalgradeline has
beennade, nalie two narks on the edgesof
rnepattemt/8 (0.3ch) abovethe lineand
ihe sanedistan.eapdt. Makethe sametwo
narks below the ho.izontd gradeline, The
narks should be on bofi edges oJ the Fat-

R€ler to the instructions nanished widl

thc eqdpnent on how to nark the pattern is
using a giading nachine oi a li4ed grnding
Paper Preptua tion:
I{a rmding ruch deora nrngeo gmorng
tuler is beinglsed it win not be necesalv to
Eate @y narks on the laper on tlich the

If $adins by nand,both a vertical and a

honzonulcradelinewillbe needed Dns a
2 ' (5 0 cml $ ider
\ edrat Lne apprdinately
thm the lants at tle ho.izontal erade line
on €achside of tle verticar gfd€ liDeat the
top md bottom,dmw tvo short ve.tical lines
t/8 (0.3cn) lron the verticarsradeline &d
dreenedistmceapan SeeFie!re 37 r'
Palt€rnM.venentslior

Il lsing a g.adingnachineor n hjnsed

$ading ruler, begi. all .roves lr.n 0 It
g.adinsby hand.harch rhe ptruemLobe
sra.lcdto the veiti.rl and horizdnlalsrade
rrneson theprepa.ed FDer.
Fisure881 shorvsNherethe pauemis
bbc ma.kedor thepaDeraltereach nxile.
( l ) M N e U P t / 4 ' ( 0 . 6 . n ) .D r a $t h e t d n L e ,

{2) NJi,vcOltI l/3 (0.:l.nt. Lrrawthe i:i6t

da't cohplere in.hdins rheco..er and
|hcpointdl thedrit II rhereis bo.e thar
ane .trtI, s ^irt 5 nt t'. tnn 4 thi

(3)Move Ol,'T 1/3' (0.3 rm) DN the

*a'stxnecomerat uresidcseam.
(4) NIorcrottN l/,1 (0.6.nt. The patrem
shouldb. .. ihe ho'izonr"lsiadelin.and
l/4' (0.ljcnr lron rhelerticalgftdc tjne

\orcr Il studinsshorh rhat cnd about

hall Nay be een th. crotchard
knee of shoite.,afto .o'rplehrs
{t) mlrc IN to the verticalsrade
lrneandproceed lyith(9)
(5)Morc ,OU.N 1/3 (0.3.m). Dn$ the

(6)More rOIrN l/3 (0.3cm)aod1x 1]8'

(0,3 cm). Draw rhc henrLnre
.orner oi

Note Il kouscr hem is iider than

hipline.d. normove1Il
(7)More /,\ l/8" ((r.3.n) The parcm
sholld bc dn the verti.al gnde lmc aDd
1/4 (0 6 cnr rrelo* rhehoiizo.talgrade
linc Draw the henline comc. at the

Note: II no 1N move\as Dade.n (6),

rore /N r/4 (o.rj ch) betoie

(3)Move |r.. r/3" (03 cnr. Drarvrhek.cc

(9) vove lPrl3 (0 3 cnr. The latiem rvtLl

be backon th. horizontalllade ljnc and
IN r/3" (0 3..r)lron the r€rtic,lsrade
lr.e m orde.i. cxtendrhecrotch.Dra*
tapennsto nothhg
aboutathirdolihedistancetothc knee.
Movcments For DecreasingSize:
Ii usins a gddins nachine d a hinged
sradins ruler, begin all noves fron 0. li
lyadine b) hdnd.maklr the pattcn to be
!faded to the verri.aland horizontzlgrade
I'neson the PrepaieoPaper.
Fig!re 89 1 showsrvhere the patted is
io benarhed on the Daler al!e. eachmove.
(l) Move tO rN 1/4' (0 rj cn) Draw the
centeflmnt waist corn€r'

i.
(2)Move.tN 1/8' (0.3 cn) Dmw the lirst
dart comDlete,includingthe cotuersand
the loint ol the dart. Il there is nore than
.ne darr. ee Note 5 dt thc a"d al th6

(3)Mo{e IN 1?8" (03 cn) D.aw tne

waistlinecohe. at thesidesed
14)Move UP t/4 (0 6 cn) The patteft
shouldbe on the hdizontal sradeline and
r/4" (0.6 cn) lron the vertical sradeline

Note: ll SEding pantsthat end l6s ihan

hall vaY bet{een the crotch to
knee lensth, alter conlletins (4),
note OUt to veitical grade lin€ o
andproceedwith (9)
15)Move UP l/8" (0 3 cm). Drarv the tnigh

t6) Move UP 1/8' (0 3 cm) and OU? 1/8"

(0.3 cn). DraN hennine comer oi

Notei II trcuser hen is wider than

nipfine,dorot nove OU?
(7JMove OUr t8 (0 3 cn). The paltem
shoubeon rhe ve ical sradeline md 1/4"
(0.6 cm) aboverhe bo.zontal srade lin€
Note: lf no Olt? moYervasnade on (6),
nov. OU? 1/4" (0.6 cn) bdore
drawing 'meam come.
ls) Move ,OtlN 1/8 (0 3 cn) Draw the
kneeareaat rhe 'nsean
rg)Move DOWlr' 1/8" {0.3 .n) and OUa
1/3 ' (0.3cn). The patlen vill beback on
the honzortals6de the and OU? 1/8'
(0.3 cn) lrom tne trtical gade lin€ in
.rder to shorten the crotch, Draw the
c.otch comer,taperingto nofting abouta
thnd ol the distanceto the tnee.
Usins the orisinal pattem, nlend ue
 :l-1/2 Grade- FrontPants

in the I 1/2' omde, the hall sectionot

the lront pants *hich represenhone
quarter of thc total circunrierence- \'ill Le
increasedor decreased3/8" (1.0 cn, jn
width at thc waistlineand hiplincand an
additional1/8' (0 3 cnr)at the inncrfot.h.
The chansesin le.gth q,illbe: 1/,1 (0.6cn)
Iron the waistto ihe crotchr1/8,,(0.3.n,
lron.rotchtolneeir/8"(0.3cm)ircnknce
toankle Direciionsaregivenfor tongpanrs.
i.e.,exte.dingtom rvaistline t. a.kle.

Patt..n Preparation:
All movesare rade Lon squaredler
tical and horizontalgradeli.es The srain
iinemy beusedfor ihe verti.atqradetineif
,t 's squaredrvith the henline.ti thc srain
lineis not squrrewirh the h.mlineitEillhe
necessary ro drawa nelvvertjcalg'adeli.e.
Tnehoiizontalsradeline h sqL,'cdlromrhe
verti.al gradeljne ro a pointapprorinately
2 (5.0 .n) belowrhe lroni crotchcorner
andthcneatended totheouterhip.Ajtei the
horizontalg.adefire hasbeennade, nake
t$o marhso. the edgcsol the Dattem1/81
(0.3cn)abovethelineandtnesamedisrance
apart.Makethe slmc two narks betowthe
horizontal gradeline.The narks shorldbe
on both edaesof ihe pattem.See Fisue
91.1. Reler to rhc instrucrionsfumished
wilh the equiph..t on ho*,to maik rhepaL
remf usng a g.adjngmachineor a hinsed
 If a Eradingnachine or a hingedgading
ro]er is beins usedit vill not be ne.essrv to
m3&eany marts on the pape. on which the

i! snding hy hand,both a v€rtical and a

horirontal grad€ line 'ill be need€d.Draw a
'ertical line approxinatelv 2" (5.0 cm)
lo.se. tnm the pmts and '
a norizontalsrade
line apprcximately 2 (5 0 cn) wider than
the pants at the horizontal Fade line. on
eachsideol the verrical sradeline at the top
and hotton, d.aw tnr€e shori v*tical lines
1/8 ' (0.3cn) lrcm the vertiaL gradelin€ and
the sane dist&c€ apart. SeeFislt 92'r'

ill
PattcrnMovem€trts For

ll usiDga gtudingnrachine or a hinged

g.adhg ruler, legin all nroveston 0. Il
6* o
gradingby hand.malch rhe patten to bc
gradedio the verri.aland horizontal gradc
lines on the p'eFarcdDaper.Figure 931
shorvs$heF fie Fartcn is to lrenarkedor
tliepa!e.aJte,eachmore
(1)More aIPrl,1'(0 d cm) Il.a{ the ccncer

(2)NloveOUT 1/8' (0.3cml.Drawth. Jnst

dart.omplete,i..LLdinsnre cornersan.1
dFpoinl dl thedart.lltheres no.c den
ane datt, !. Not. 5 .t tht ttd t,j th^

(3)More Ot? 1/,1 (0.6 cn). D.a( the o

sa'stlirecorneratthesd.s.!n
(,1)NIorcrott/N l/4 (0.6.nt Thc Dattem
shouldbeontheho.izontalgradc lire and
3 / 3 ' ( l . 0 c n ) f r o n r h . r c r t i c agLr a d e l r

N.te: IfsradinApantsthatendlessthan
half wa) lretwce. Lhecrorchto
(l)
koeelensth,arte. cdmDletins
movelN to ve icalsradelineand
proceedNth(9).
(5) Nlove,Onr,! 1/8 (0.3 cm) D.r{ rhe

(d) Moverotl,N 1/3 (0.3cnt an.l1N 1r8"

10.3on). Dnw rhe h.nrlinc coiDe.oi

No!e:Il trouseiis ryidcrthanhipline,do

(7) Nlove /N 1r' (0 6 cnr). The pa(em

sholld b. on Lhercriical gradeli.. and
1/,1 (06 cn)bclorvrhehdzonLalsrade
line. Drar the hemlineco.ncr at the

Note If no 1N nove Nas imde o. (rj)

nove 1N 3/8' (1.0 cn) beiore
dENinenrseam corner.
(8) \love a? r/8' (0.3cn). Dr3{, the kree

( 9 )M o v ea ? 1 / 8 ' ( 0 . 3c n ) d n d/ N r / 3 ' ( 0 3
cnt. The patternwill bc back on the .:_
honzontal giadehneandaNr/3" {0.3cn)
trom the vertral gradcliDein orderto
cxlendthe crotch Drarvthe crotchcoF
.er. rapeiingto n.thi.g abouta thnd ol
rhed$tanceto theknec.
Movements For Decreasing Size:
Il usins a stading nachine or a hinged
ending tuler, tegin all hoves lrom 0. li
srading by hand, natch the pattem to be
graded to tbe vertical and horizontal Fade
lines on the !.epaied paper. Ficlt 94-l
shoss wiere the patteh is to be markedon
de paperaltereachnove.
l1)M@e ,OttN 1/4 (0.6 cm) Dnw the
centerfront waist comer.
i2) Move IN 1/3" (0.3 cD) Dnw the fist
dart conllete, including the coFers and
the Dointol the dart. Il there is nore than
one datr, ec Nott 5 at the etld oJ this

13)Move IN 1/4' (0.6 cn) Draw the

saistline comer at the sidesean.
1.
(1)Move arP r/4'(06 cn) The pattem
shouldbe on rhe honzo.ral sradeline and
3/8 ' (1.0cn) frcm the vertical sradeline.

\jote: If gnding pantsthat end lessthan

hau way behveen the c.ot.h to
knee lensth, after conpletins (4).
nove Oara to ve.tical srade line
andproceedwith (9).
(;) Move LF 1/3' (0.3cn) Drav the th'sh

(6)Move UP 1/8" (0.3cn) ed OLrr t8

10.3 cn). Drad ihe henline cdner ot

Note: 1l trcuser hen is vider than

hipline, do not nove OU?
17)Mov€ OU? t/4" {0.6 .n) The pnttern
sh@ld ne on the vedical giade line ed
1/4 ' (0.6 cm) above the horizontalsrade
line. DGw the hennine coher at the

Note: r no OUr note wasmadeon (6)

more Ot? 3/8' (1 0 cn) beto.e
draving ns€an cotuer.
rS)Move,OWN 1/8 (0.3cn). Draw the
Lneeareaat the 'nsean.
'9) Move DO rN 1/8" (03 cn) and Otry
1r8' (0.3cm).The rrattemwill be back on
the horizontal srade line and Oar 1/8"
(0,3 cn) lron ihe vertical llad€ line in
oder to slorien the crotch Draw the
crorch.omer, taperingto nothingaiout a
third oI the distdce to the knee
Using the o.iginal patt€m, blend the
 2 Crade- rront Pants

ln ihc 2 Grade,the hali sectionol tne

lront pants {hich representso.e qrater of
Lhetotalcircunlie.cnce - will bein.reasedor
decreasedl/2 (1.3 .fr) in sidth at the
vaistlinea.d hiplincandan additional1/3
(0.3cm)atthe innercrotch.The.hnnsesin
lengthwil be: l/,1' (0.6cml nom the {aist
to Lhecrotcht1/3' (0.3cnt fr.n .r.t.h io
lneei 1r3" (0.3 cn) Jr.n knec to anklc.
Directionsare given lor long pa.ls, i.c.,
extendiigfronryaisdincto ankle.

All dores !.e nade from sqlared rcr

tical and ho.izonlal grade lines. The grain
linemaybeusedlor theleitical gra.lelineiI
it is squared{ith tne lenlinc, Il the s.ain
lines not squarewith Lhehcmlineii lyillbe
necessary to drawa nei rrrical gradeline.
Thehorizontdg.dc lineh squared Jromrire
fft1cal gradelinc n, a poirt app.oximately
2' (50 .nt bcl.,wthe no c.oLchcorner
and rhenextendto the outerhiD Aftei the
horizontaleradeline hasbecnDade,make
t*o nrarks o. the edses ol the patteh l/8
(0.3cir)abolethelineandthesanedkra.ce
apart Makethe sane two narks beloNrhe
horizontalgradeline The miks shouldbe
on both edgesof lhe pattein See Fisure
95-1. Reier to the imtrucrionsfumhled
wirh the equipnentonhow tonark the pat-
tem il usinga sradingmr.hineor a hinged
 If a snding nachine or a hingedSrading
ruler is b€ingusedit wil no! be necessaJvto
Mke any mailis m the paper on which the

ll emdins ny hand,toth a vertical and a

horizontalsrade line will be needed Dnw a
verrical line approxinately 2 (5.0 cn)
Iongerdran the pets and a ho.izontal gade
line approimtely 2" (5-0 cn) {ider tbd
the pants at the horizontal srade line On
ea.h side ol the vedical sade line at th. top
and hotton, dnw folr short vertical lin6
l/8 ' (0.3cd) lrom the vertical siade line and
the sme distanceapart. SeeFiglre 96 1
I'atlern Itovem.nlsFor

If rsirs a gfadnrgDafhin. or a hinged

rmd iJt nLLer.Legin all movesiron 0 Ia
grnd,ngbr lia.d. match tlre patt.m nr bc
gEdcd to rhc lerrical and b.riTonlaLlrade
lines dn ihc Dreparedpap{ Flsn.c 97 1
sbolrswherethe pnrLcrnG !, bc mafkedon
tlrep.Derafte.c..h n.rc
(l) More lf l/4 (0 ti cD). Drawtle.erter

(2)-\'lo!eOLl l/3 (0 3 c.r). LrmN.helrrst

dart cotupl.t..in.ludinsthc concrs aid
the poi.t oi thcdart IfthcrcisDrorcthan
ar)ed^lr. \t Nrt. . at th. a1.l ./ tri

NI.rc oLI7 3/8'(t0 rm). DBr lhe

lrastlineron,eral lb. sidcseam
NloferOI,l,N l/.1'(0.ij cnn.The parlcrn o
shouldbeonthehoiizortalsndelinealnl
1/2 i1.ll cm)iromnrereiticalsradeline.

No.e: ll{radnrspan$ thaterd lesrth3n

hall \r.t Lebrecnth. .,otch io
Lneelength..ftdr complciing(.1)
nove IN to t.&:al an.lc lineaM

(J)r'lole DO N l/8 (0.3 cm). D.a{ rhc

'
t6) Nloverolt'V 1/3 (0 3 cm) and /N 1/3
(0.3 .r'). Dnr hemline codcr or

No&: lf l.ouserhe)ns reirl.r rhanhip

Lire dorot nor. /,V
(7)Move 1N 3/3 (1 0 cnrl. 'fhe Daftem
shorldbe on thc rcrtical gradeline and
l/4 (0.6cnt belowthe honzontat snde
lin.. D.an rhe h-"hline comer ar flre

]lote ll no IN n!rc {as made on (6)

nore 11 1/2' (1.3 cnt bcrorc

{8) Mlrc LiP 1/3" (0.3cm) D.a{ the knec

19)NloveL'? 1/3" (0.3.m)3ndrN lrl '{0 3

cnr. TIe pattdn Nill bc back on the
gr.deli.. and/N l/8 '(0.3cn)
horizontal
lron the ve.licalsmde line in o.der k)
eatendth. fr.tch. Draw the .rot.h c..
ncr trpen.s to rournrgalout a Lhird!l
th. disbn.cto thelmee.
Movemetrts For D.creasing Size:
Ii using a arading machineor a hinged
smdins ruld, besin all moves fron 0 lf
grading by hdd, natch the pattern to be
sradedto rhe verticcal and horizontalsrad€
lines onthe p&pared paper.
Figrre 98 1 shNs where ihe pattern is
to benarked on the pape.after eachmove.
(1)M@e ,OtlN 1/4" (0.6 cm) DraY the
centerfront satst come.
(2)Mde /N 1/8' (0.3cn). Draw the fist
dart complete,including the cofters and
the point ot the darr. Il there is noie than
one datt, tee Nate 5 at the ."d oI this

(3)M@e 1N 3/8 (1.0 cn). Dnw the

waistlinecomerat thesidesean
{4)Move aP 1/4" (0.6 cn). The pattern
should be ba.k on the honzontal srade
i.
line ad 1/2" {i.3 cn)lrom ure vertical
gade tine.Drawthehip dea
Noter Il gnding pantsthat endlessthan
hall way betFeen the dotch ro
knee length, aiter conpletins {4),
mde OU" to vertiQi eradeline
andprcceedwith (9).
(5)Move {-F 1/8' (0,3cn). Dnw ihe thish

(6) Mde LP 1/8 (0.3 cn) and OU? 1/8"

(0.3 cm). Draw tle henline comer of

Note: ff t.ose. hen is Mder tlan hip'

line, do not nove OUt
(7)Move OarI 3/8 (1.0cn). The patten
should be on the ve.tical glad€ lirc and
1/4 ' (0.6 cm) above the horizontalgrade
line. DdN the nenlne comer at the

Note: lf no OU? nove w^ nade on (6),

nove OLT 1/t (1.3 cn) belore
d€whg insean come..
(8)Move ,O 7N 1/8" (0.3cn). Daw the
kneethe areaof the insean.
(g)Move,Otw 1/8 {03 cn) and Oarr
1/8"(0.3cm),Thepatten will bebackon
tle horizontal srade lin€ and OU? l/8"
(0,3 cn) lron the vertical grade line in
ordei to shorten the 6obn. Drav tne
crotch corner.tape ng to nothingabtul a
dird of the distanceto the knee.
Using tle origiml pattem, blend the
 FRONTPANTS

. Chrt sho{insdr moves

in eachorthesrad€sReferto thcsccrions
oneachsizegradctor

(l) DOTN

\2) OUT IN

OUT IN
DOll;N
(5) DOWN l/3 (n3 .m)
{6) DOIIN
IN OUT
o) IN OUT
D(J\IN

UP DOlVN
IN OUT

Thc3 Cmde,$ed fromNlediunr (M)loLargc(L)andnomrnrser l r r o F a r a L i . ! e ( X L ) ,i

a.complishcd I 1/2'Grade.
by doublinsall neastrenentsinthe
 oo

- -l-r-i -

:-t-
l',
lt:

ir I

"-1-- --t--

O-
 l " G r a d c- 1 - 1 / 2 " C r a d € - 2 ' C r a d c - t s a c kP o n t s

'lhci.ithalf.lthd!xnlrshouldbcsradeditstTheFarteilPieFaratio.,Papcr||epaia
rimxrdP.lrd.dllofr.renrsF.rln.rcasin{SrcandlorD..rcari.gSizcarccxactltthcsaDefo.
sradnrt tlt bnrk pantsas rhor_
areId tl( ii..L ra.ts b_rsimDi_r
substitutiirg the iord
' back ao. nonf $herereritoc.urs. srading
Arlcr rhc backhalJ!1nre pantshar. b..n sradcd aD.Lbcforcihcy afc cui out, be su.ek)
.he.t thc lrrn( DanGpatternaganisrthc bact !ants Datteflratthe sidesea.raIl] nr rheins*jr
(rroDihceorchdo{n{ard)

BACKPANTS

LrhartslroNingthc nrft. in.r.h.J rhc$ades Rcfr' rothrir.tionsoneach sizeor siadelor

ol DOl\'N
OUI ]N

i3) 0lj'l IN

DO\Vr_
(r) DO\i'N
DOll'ri UI
]N OUT
(7) IN OLIl' 3/8 (l.0.ml
(8) DO\\ N

LP
IN OUT

The3 'Gmde.$ed f..n Medium (NI)roLarsc(r-)rndfro.rLaise(rl ro ExtELarse(xr_),is

a . c o m P l i s h e d b ) ' d o u b l i n s a l L m e a s u r e1m/ 2
e 'nctE
s idret h. c l
---- -t -
otes

o)Onth

e) To io
ow

INU

(0.3c
 COLLAR GRADING
Always check tbe gmde on the ru.Ut,
oJ tne bodice that has alrsdy been giaded.
Becauseoi rhe lines conve4ins on a crcle,
slisht adjustnenls a.e sonetines necessaJv
whengradingthe collars.
The colld is not generally graded in
width in order 1oretain the original propoF
tions.E{ceptionswodd b€whena change n
rvidth is necessaryin order to mairtnD a
desisndetail, i.e., where the edse of the
collar tust natch a seam Line,a shornder
width or sone othe. desig! line.

Dnecdonslor flat collars,roll collarsor

't he 1" Gnde vill incrsse or decrease
the neckinea tolal 011/2" (1.3cd or r/8'
Directions fo. tho standing collaJ, shirt
collar, conveitihle collar or any colla. where
rheneckedgeol the collar is contxl
Figue 103-1shMs whe.e the patt€rn is
to bemarkedafterqch move.
(1)On the foldol the paper,drawthe cente.
' 1/8" (0.3 cn). Draw th€ shoulder notch
back {idth or the collar lor about l (2.5
.n) at the neck edse and the outc. edse
{2) To increaset}e size ol the colld, nove
OarI 1/8 (0.3 cn). DraN tne shodder
notch on tle neck edse and about 1/2
(1.3cm) on ea.h sideol the notch. On the
outer edse, oppositerne shodder notch,
draw aboutthe ene distance.
To decreasethe size of the coUar,note
1N 1/8" (0.3 cn) and lollow ile sme
dnecLiotr ^ lor increasinstne size.
(3)M@e OUT1l8" (0.3cm).Drav ar@nd
tne rest oi rhe couar neckline and the
To nahe the collarsmaller,nove /N 1/8
(0.3 cn) belore dnwinc around the est
ol the cold at the neckline and outer
anycollarwhercthe neckeds€of tne colar
Fis!re 1041 snowswbere the pattem is
bemrked alter dch nove.
( l ) On the lold of the paper,draw the c€nter
ba.k {idth of the collar for ahout 1" (2.5
ch) at the neck edse and ine oltei edg€
(2)'fo increasethe colar size, nove Oara
onthe ne.k edsedd about1/2"(r.3 cm)
on each side ol rhe notch. on the outer
edge, oppGite tle shouldernotch, d.aw
ahoutthe samedistlnce.
To decreasethe collar, nove lN 1/3" (0.3
cm) md follow the sade directiohsas ror
(3) Move aP 1/8 (0.3cnl, Da' aroundthe
colla. .eckline andthe outer edge.
To darsse ihe size ol the collar, nove
DOIVN !a" \a.3 cn) belore drawins
aroud ur collar neckline md tne outer
edse.
O

o
o
r-1/2" Grad€ - 2" crad€ - Collaft
Sincetheneckedseolthe 1.1/2 Gnde
and the 2 Gradeare increasedor decr€ased
the sameaountsj3/4 (1.9cn)fd the total
n{kline, 3/16' (0.s cn) per qua.ter,the
Di.ections lor the standing couar, shirr
collar. convertiblecollar or any colla. rhere
the ne.k edge oI the collar is convex: See
(1) On the lold oi the pape., draw the center
backvidth ol the collarlor about1 ' (2.5
ca) at tne neck edse and the outer edge
(2) To increae the size ol the cond, nove
OarI3116" (0.5cn). Draw the shoulder
notch on the neck edge and about t2"
(1,3cn, onach sideoiihenotch.On rhe
ouier edge,opp6ite the shouldernotch,
drav abouttne sabe distance.
To defese the sire ol the coUaf,move
1N 1/8" (0.3 cnl and Jollow the sane
di.ectionsaslor in.reding the size.
(3) Move OU?3/16" (0.5 ci). D.aw arcund
the 6t ol the colla. neckline and ourer
To nalre the colla. smaller, bove IN
3/16 (0.5cn) beiore draNing atud ine
.est or the collar at the necklinead @te.
o
Directions for nat collars,roll collars or
any colla. vhere the neck edgeof the collar
is concar: SeeFi€lre 10rj I
(1) On tbe Joldot the paper,dra* the center
backwidthof the colla for aholt 1" (2.5
cm) at the neck edse and the outer edse
(2) To increasethe colar, nove OLT 3/16"
(0.5cn). DnN de shollder noich on tle
nec* edge and about 1/2 (1.3 m) on
eachsldeol the notch.on the outd edge,
oppositethe shouldernotch, draw about
To decrase the collar, noye IN 3/16"
(0.scm) md lolov the sme diections d
for incr@singthe collar.
(3) M@e LP 3/16 (0.5 cn). DiaN dolnd
the collar n4kline and the olter edge.
Todecrease thesize,noverorlN 3/16"
(0.5cn) beforedmvinsarcundthecollar
necklineandtheouteredse.
-,
Notes
 COLLARS
ChaI1showing tne ooves in each of fia sndes. Refer Lone

Standinscolars, shnt cot16, convdtible colar or any couars

(t)
(2) OUT IN r/8 (0.3.m)
(31 OUT IN r/8 toj cm)

;tYs r,,*d,@ t _ a,,

The 3 ' Grade,usedlmn Mediun (M) to lj{e lL) to E*rraLargelxlr$ accomplished

bt
dodbliaqthe heasuren€nts in ttre 1 1/2'' crade
Flat cola, rcI co[als or any colan whde the neck e&e of the col]ai is con€k:

(1)

t2) OUT IN 3/16 (0.sm)

(3) UP DOWN

o,
I I

h .-- ._d, atu)

N(rll: I U h.. Lorsibl.. l,ceDlbt dislartd l.o tb. s|ould.. sea b rhe r'nscrd notchcs,
l,.rh lri,k 1nd nont. tlre srin'd]stan( or allsirs xs Lhc!.igiial. Thcexscor$ther
iD{ hls Letf $oik.d oull1,. tlul s'c nid.hnnsnrs lbt di$arcc*ill cha'se llre ran'
.r r,'llrr.ssbdtrr.cn th. arms ta.dllesc.!. llor lb. srdre r.as'n thetronland
ba.krot.her.D th. sleevcrnu't Ie kept th. srde dislantelrorn lb"ente) nohl otr

To nrain(ni,rth.li..s 0l rhe o,igin.l pJ1tcr.. n.! slDulllerdx'ts rbofld be catlLllli

, . d t e r . d b e t r l . c n r h . 0 r i s i m l r a t L e n l i . . s r n d t h e n e \ !f x l l c i n l i n c s l l t h e d a n o r
DLL.xtis re,r .los. b th. sho!lder lonn o' n, th. nech.dre 'otrsiicr k'epiis it llt
;me dl{ard or alL st.s. lhe [naLh or th. shoukler dart in nont shlrld be
fh.Ilged 1i8 (0.3.nt0..rt. l..gthcncdas th.s,e isinckrs'd. sh"rened asLht
d..n'nsed.'lh. ba.k shouklPr& ..r n..k dan. is geDcr'llI 'enteLedand
"t.lq
.Ld.s.otchanscniIngth.
'l
N()tf3 h. sid. br$ drir gc.rrrll! rcrnaiN the samedista'.. iionr Lbe:nns'-!' fornfr or
rlFsidc don isics 'r sh"t'!ed l/8 (03'nr)nsdi
L t r r n u s |t . l e D l t h c r e d
sizeol thc o,iti,rl DalrernI nr.retrs.{lordecrcnsed.'l'olfngrhen the daft ir)!c IN
(rj) lo shortco thc
lo rftrl tu ji,i.t and rhtn dore oa:T belorc rorti|uinc I'itlr
dan. n,o!c OajT ro Dlrk dE pon( and the! 1N befor. .'nrnr

Da!Lso.igiiai.g Iom rllr Lvaislln,cger.rnlllremaiJrLhdsaDrcl.ngih' 'on all sizesir a

- ' l{ r" ' I
",'".." ' , . r.. d o
l 0 . 3 . n nj i c r s ; d o n t b c s n n l l . r s i , . s a r d l e r { l h . o 1 / 3 1 0 3 t m ) !

N O T F5
. , n. I , "f
u p N i i h L h c d a r t s oLnI i . L D d i c .L l t h c , . a r e n N l l i p l - " d a r t s m t h e b o d i ' e r ' L i i u l | D L c
dn :oDth.skirl.be$trtlh3Ldl& srrt.h.
ll arer. an l,'o dnrts o.lht sliirl or oa.r Lul nor or thc n'B the seco'd dart
G u n k l | . e n r . r . d b . n \ e e nL l r e i n s l d r f i( i h f . i e r l o s e d l o t r c r ' n t e r o l t h c b o d r l
x..1tlr| snle seanr Il thrt. or moredlns arc !s.d. lhev ire gcncrxlll lor dc'orarfe
'J the orilinal
lrrposes and th. gra.lcr sh.nld t! 1! aiixai. the D'oportidx

la the ski.t d parts b.ing gnded ls a separst Earnrcnt.ie rot attnche'llo a

bodicc,the sinqL ;r Iirsl drn ls.lo(ed 1/8 (0 3 ..r) nonr rhe 'cntcr Jr tncre are
nrn. dits. tlrey sl,oullllrc ccotcrcdbel(.en thc tir{ dart and tlie sdc s'3 rt ihe

N O T E 6 ll !'adnE r slxnl slee\. t[. !nd..rrn lcnglh d'cs not thanH' Alrer coilpL't'ng
nr;i. (3). dn* rhe u.dtrarri c.r... and corlnnLc d'r' to lbr henr "n'r to
.oirol.[ the sradn,gol {hc lr.t halt o1thc sleerc T' gnde tht l]n'h rall of th'
slcc'c. repeai it,, ..re seres .f moveson lhe lrack 'r ihe slcere b'girnr ns
"rrori

\OTE 7 fo. slfuighi d, Jlaredsleelcs. do nol Drr. /I on (5) l,!{ kcco I

Nilrh at rvristas tb. b,..P crade.
 SECTIONiI
DESIGNVARIATIONS
 GRADING DESIGN VARTA'TIONS

olrce the lasic gradins tehniqu* hay€beenurorcwhly practiceddd tustded, the folow'
ins EriatioN will sfle asglirlelins to srading morc complicatedstyl$
In desisls where the basic patcm has hen c apan to cr€ate the new stle, such d the
priness iine, goredskir! nidnf bodice,etc-, the emder my Iird it ea6id to sude tlE pattem
by attachins strips of tasbodd, apprcnMtely 6" O5.0 m) by 1/2 (1,3cnt, to tle two piees
dd noving the& 4 a $it. Idaslina tapemy ie usedto attachthe strips to die lattem piecs
The lraite fd tlE oost conplicateddsisn may beeasilydetmired by diaring the sdne
on a des lorn and den dawins ir the lines,shoM in red, whde the sament is to be ildeded
or deEased. r necsaly, refer to the gmdins of eacnhasicpart of the !a@6i as sho@ in the

Alter the a@ to he inceed or dedeasd have ben detemined on the dres6ftrm, the
sne lins har be rlaslded to the ilat !att@ for esy od quick referene s the siading is
Fingdme.RemefrberfrrJeredlinesqnrrepar.msdoro'rdiatethemo!,'d-arlPpal
Lemir ro beincRaied or dec*ed bul onl} the r@ , b"F t\e charyeswi! be mde
 PRINCESS

(1) UP DOWN l/8 (03 cnl 1/8 (0.3Ln)

(?) UP DOvVN
OUT IN
(3)' OUT IN 162 (0.1cm)
OUT IN 1/32 (0.1cm) l/16' (02 cm) 1/16 (0.2cml
(5) DOWN UP
(61 OUT iN 1/8"(0.3cml 1/4 (06 cnl
(7) DOWN
(8r IN OUT 1/8 (0.3chl

(9) IN OUT 1/8 i0.3cmJ 1/8 (0 3 cm)

'Be $r€ to dnw botheds€sof the t\vo piec4, inctudingrie norches,betolecontinuingro

the
 -i--'i-

-r.-_
l- -'r:l-
 MIDIUFF

o) DOWN 1/8 (0 3 cnl 1/8"(03 cm) 1/8 (0.3cm)

\2) DOWN
OUT IN 1/16 (0.2cm)
(3) OUT IN 1/16 (02 cml 1/8"(0.3cml 1/8"(0.3cm)

DOWN UP

6)' OUT IN 1/8 (0.3cm)

(61" IN OUT
(1) IN OUI 1/8'(0.3cm) 1/8 (0Jcm)

{3) OUT IN 3/8"(1,0m) 1/2"(1,3cm)

DOYr'N UP
(9) IN OUT

lAitd nalilg this move,b€sue to drawbothrheundenm cornd md the

tder comerof the
upperbodiceaswellasthetopcornd or thenid.iff sectionat thesides@,

"Be s!re to drawbothedsesof the two pie.es,k@pingthenorchesthesamedistanceasonthe

originalpieces,beforeconiinuinsto then*r noy€.
 t(
i-i
\i,

--'t:-'t
--)+
\ 1l

o
1
.-T--I
I
.l

t-.-----
 BACK YOKE

(1r DOWN 1/8 (0 3 cm) 1/8 (0 3 cm) 1/8 (03.m)

\2) UP DOWN l/16 (0.2fr) 1/16 (0.2m) 1 / 1 6 ' ( 0 ..2m )

(3) UP DOWN
OUT Il'r 1/8' (0.3h)

OUT IN U16 (0.2cm) 1 / 8 ( 0 3c m )

(5)" DOvvt\r 1/8 (0.3cm) 1/8 (0 3 cm) 1/8 (0 3 cm)
(6) DOWN UP 1/8'(0.3
o) 1 / 8' { 0 . 3 . m )

o) OUI IN l/8 (0.3cm)

(8) DOWN UP
(9) IN OUI

o0) IN OUT r / 8' ( 0 3 c m )

iDraw thelppd come.of the centerbact bodiceandthe lowercornerol lhe centeriack yoke

"Drav botn €dgesoi the tvo pieces,teepins the notclEsthe see distancea!a!t as on th€
iii
iifr
 STLAWLCOLLAR

(r) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3.m) r/3 (0.3cm)

UP DOWN
OUT IN
(J)" UP DOWN l/8 (0 3 .m) 3/16 (0.5.m)

DOWN UP
OUT IN
(5) DOWN UP
(6) OUT IN

(7) DOYiN UP 1/8 (0 3 .m) 1/8 (0.3.m) 1/8 (0.3cm)

IN OUT
(9) IN OUT 1/3 (03 cm)

lBe sue to nrk the outer edgeof the colr andthe neck comer at the shoulder that
so the same
widtn is naintained on the collar.
! lThis nove dir4tion is lor a mll colla., If the
coltaris nat, the movedirectionsvodd be OU? to
in Mse ihe sizeandIN to d€cr€ase,thus chtugins the li6t part oi (4).Somesmderssinply rake
a (ler a.d add the proper am@nt on to the back edse of the colrar,skipping nove (3) dd the
 BLOUSE- TORSO

(11 UP DOWN V3 1/8 (n 3 .m)

\2) L'I DOTVN

OUT IN

o) OUT 1N 1/3 (0.1.m)

DOWN
(5) OUI IN
DOWN UP 1 / 8 ( 03 ( m )

{7) IN OLIT 1/8 (0I cm) 1/3 (0 3 .m) 1/8 (0

(8f IN OUI
(9) OUT IN

o0) IN OUI 3/8 (1.0!m) 1/2 (l I cm)

'Blo$es generaly renain the sane length fmm

to6o dressor a sheathdress,reler to the section
just urepatlem fron the Mistline to the henline
ki
 KIMONO SLEEVE_ WRAP BODTCE

(1) UP DOWN
OUT iN tt6"

(21 OUT IN 1/8 (03 Lm)

(3)' OUT IN

(4) OUT IN 1/8 (0.3cm) U8 (0.3cn)

(5) OUT IN l/8 (0.3cm)
(6) DO!!N UP
l1) IN OUT
DOWN UP

(3) IN our
DOWN

o0) UP DOIVN
IN OUT
(1r) DQWN UP
OUT I N
IN OUT
(13)" OIIT IN

'For short sleeves:AJter completins(3), noveDOnTlr' 1/4 (0.6 cn). Dnv lover sleevecomer.
Continuevith (8) throushthe rest oi ine sequence.
!!11the wrap continuesp6t what would be about rhe area oJ tne dait at ite waistline, rhis
deasurenent Nould be adjustedaccordinsly.Note that when a nove is away fron the center ol
the body ft is an or? dove; vhen tovards rhe ceDrerof the body ir is an IN dove.

GUSSEl'SLEEVE

Gussetsleev€sa.e sad€d in the une bannei as kioono steeves.Ait€r nove (9), dnw the
underatucompleteincludingtheslashloi theglsser.Theglsserliece isnorgnded,
i= + '-'---\\':
---i--'.----''

--1---i

Vi
 RAGLAN SLEEVE

BODICE

2.2
(r) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3Ln) 1/8 (0 3 rm)
12) UP DOWN
OUT IN 1/16"(0.2cm)
(3) DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3.m) t/8 (0.3!m) 1/8 (03 !m)
OUT IN 1r3 (03 Lm)
(s) DOWN UP
(6) OUI IN 1/8 (03.m)
(7) DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3cm)
(3) IN OUT
(9) IN OUI 1/8"(0.3cm)

p1' rvo" hcftoo'd r '| c

" i5sYaded
i :i":I:;:t:,';";"ff'''re! "r'cp' olo' no\"'
\-+ --r-------1-
[1ii
__/_L)-
 SLDDVE

o) UP DOWN 1 / 8 ' ( 0 . 3c h ) 1/8"(0.3cn)

tzt UP DO\{N 1/16'(0.2cm) 1/8 (0 3 cn)

(3) DOWN UP 1/8"(0.3cn)

OUT IN r/8" (0,3cm)

DOWN UP U8 (0.3cm) 1/8 (0.3cn)

(5) OUT IN U8 (0.3cml 1/8"(03 .ml l/4 (0.6ctu)

(6) DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3m) 1 / 8 ' ( 0 . 3( h )

(71 DOWN LTP 1/8' (0.3cn) 1/8" (0.3cn)

IN OUT 1/8"(0.3cn)

(8) IN OUT 1/8"(0.3cnl

(e) UP DOWN t/8 (0.3cm) i / 8 ' ( 0 . 3c m )

Since the shdt sleeve lensth does not generally changein !ndd@ lensth, besin the short
sleeveEradeby dawins ddnd fie oDteredgeoI the sleeveat the henline, lraeed with nove
(1)tlftugh (5),contiding tne undeEm sem to the hemlineafter (5).

alre backharfol rhe sleeveis snded *ctly the sane asthe tront,
-l----

r. o

1C5
 S L E E V EA N D ' T O K E( U T I N O N D

AODICE

(1) trl DOWN l/8 (0 I .m)

ouT l IN
(3) oul IN l/16 (02.m)

DOWN r/8 (03 cm) l/8 (0.3 Lm)

(s) OUT ]N 1/8 (0 J rm)

(6) DOWN UP l/8 (0 3 rml

o) IN OUT
IN our 1/8 (0.3 Lhl

SLEEVEANDYOKE
N ! m o ' e . D r 1 q ' r o ud, . e r t e r l r o nJr . h o ( n i nd : s r m

t:2) UT
OUT IN
(3) OLJI IN
OUT ]N 1/8 (0ll Ln)

6) DOIVN (0

UP DOWN 3/8 (1.0cm)

IN OU'I
(;l IN OUI r/16(02.o) 1/8 (01. n)
(3) IN oul 1/8 (0 3 Lm) !-..\
 oo
o@
 SIX GORESKIRT

Certer panel and side pdet graded s ode

{1) UP DOWN

\2) ouT IN
(3) OUT IN
DOWN UP
(5) DOWNI UP
1/8"(0.3cn) 1/8'(0.3
cm)

{6) IN OUT 1 / 8 ' ( 0 . 3m )

(71 IN OUT 1/8 '(0 3 cb) v8 (0.3.m) 1/8 (0.3cml

Tnen@6lo! sradinsthefrcntddo! ba.k de thesme.

--r
Fl
 nR

--l- --T----------^-- --.1-----.-.

-- __

$e
- - i- - - + --- --- -- - - - - - - - - - | $
:-i:-i- -.--::-----+

i -{:-t:::11::::-:-j
R
e
 SKTRTWITH CUT.IN POCKET

(r) UP DO!1'1{

\2) OUT IN

(31

(5)
OUT I1N

DOS'll

DovNI ur
UP
3/16' (0.5cn) i
1N OUT

'A d.essskirtvould bea skirt tharis s€wnro

a bodiceandthelocket openingwoutdlineupwith
a dartor Dleatin thebodic€.
',,-i--:i:'r-
---L---1'---'i-
 LIRCLESKTRT

UP DOWN

\2) otrT ]N

(31 UI DOlVI

our IN
(51 OUT
,l:1i,
D O l l N UP 3 / 1 6 ( 0 . 6! m )

DOWN U P
IN OUT

IN 3i,

T h " _ o v . ! r o e - a d r n ch " a 1 r a i d o r r h e b " . k " - c . i p d -

---i-:--:ii-\
! r!/'I
--- - )-I - -- --- - - - - t-l---i
tt, I-
---- + ----------)2- --r-
 S W T M \ { E A R _ B O D YS U I T

LP DOWN
OUT IN

0) uP DOTfN

DO!'!N

(J) OUT TN
DO\4'N UP

o) 1N oLf
(31 OUT IN
DOlVN UI
IN ouT
o0) IN OUT
DOl{N UP

The boves ior sradins the r.ont &d/0. back aie rte sanr.

l_
-1--:-

115
Thesanedirectionsapptyto thebactrot thesuir:

I
IlV
o

!--t'.
)
Notes
Notes
SECTIONIII T

MENSWBAR
 MENSWEAR

The sladingof nensed asdme by old tine tailds is a very esplicated preess,Fron a
Sivenpointm a patteh, linesweredrad throuehtne c(re6 or angleFol the pattm ad then
narked in sp@ifiedm€as@ents, aI siz6 to be gradedleins @ked on the lin6 lrm tne
orisinalpoint.By piqcins tne papq thrcusnthefirst m.k out6ideUE olisiel pattem,tne 6ize
rould beinn€*d me srade,MGt tailo6 @ntinueto se this netlod for sits, vests,tr@serq
Fd spolts@r andsseral u*, a nuch sinpld nethod hasled devised,nuch like tlE
methodu*d lor eradingwondseai The sradinsdnectioN sivo in tlis t*t vil be lor fie

.-
 GRADEDTFFERENCES
BETWEENMEN'SSIZES

\, \.,../ /
/ \, / \, \
,./
cm) (50 cm) (5.0m) (s.0co) (s.0cn, (5.0

."i
I I I
tl I I
54

\,,/ \"
(10,0cm) O0.0

"\ \ i" \ i"

"../"\,,.1'\
".,1"" "
( 5 . 0 . m ) ( s . 0 c m )( 5 . 0 c m )( 5 . 0 c n ) ( 5 . 0 c m )

'\,,1\,, l\,..1n\
l\,
",./*
(5.0cn) (5.0cm) (5.0cr) (5.0.n) (5.0cn)
 DRESS SHIRTS

Sine the size ol the ;eclband deler

rnins thesizeol theshnt,M's dressshns
are alwavsboughtbv cold 6te Ior shdt
slee{edshiits andbv a conbi@tionol colld
sizedd sleeveLenstnlor l@gsleeYeilshirrs
c€ndaly, tnreesl4ve lenethsare available

Baaus. a nan s shlii is comlri*d ol so

omy *Paste compon@ts fmnt- body,
backbody,toke, collardd sleeve eacn
pie.ewillbe.xplainedrn lheotderin shich

Front Shirt Body

Tne ftmt shirt hodyrepresdts onen I
of tne tota1sament ciiomJdence at the
che6!waistad sat - the backs]lnt hodv
reprsntins tne otherhau.wno the front
shnt bodyis .ut on fte lold d ha3a open-
ing down ut coter Ircnt, the Pattem
representson. q@iter ol the total cir'
rnnfdence. h thedresssnirtsmde,urehat
ol a iront shiii bodt {in !e increNedor
' (1.3cm)in ftdth
ddeaftt ll2

All novs re @de ltun sqlareil ver

tical od horoontal gade lin4. ln the cde of
a lront snirt body the centerfrot viU sft
as the yertical snde line To Dal<e tne
horizontalsnde line, squalefton th€ center
front, &eeling the line apprcxinatelv 1" (2.5
@) belowtle al]@ye at the sides@-
Alter tne hrizmtaL srade line hN beo
Mde, Mke two natks on the edgesol the
lattdn 1/8 (0.3 m) dra@ tne [tre and the
sme distance aDaJt.Make the we two
@ks ,,ioe the line. The marks slodd b€
@de @ both eds* oI tle Pattem See
Figue 1-3.Rder to the imtructi@ tumish_
ed witn the equipnent or hN to Darlr tlte
pattem ii lsins a rl?dins Mchine m a

a..---
 \

(r)\t
r?l\t

{3) \l

( 1 r\ l

Il not sing a gmdins nachine or a

hingedgradingtuter, draw a rertical line Jof
tne center lront, or lold rhe paperif the pat
teh is nade on the lold. Fron the center
iront line or lold, sqla.e a honzontalsnde r;r\t
line approxinately 2 (5 0 cnt lonser tha.
the partern is wide at the chestline.Apprd r E\rt (
inately hdi way between the hoizontal
gEde line and the necklineol rhe Fattern,
nake lour narks 1/8" (0,3 cm) apart,
malins th€ 1/4" {0,6 cn) narks slightly
long€r or heavie. to distiqxisl then.
Repeatthe sane four narks about halJway
between fte hodzontnl grade line and tie
henline oi the pattern.SeeFig!re 2 3.
PatteE Mdemelt8 Fot
Incrssilg Slre:
Match the pattem to the v€rtical dil
!o!to at rxadelin6 d the prepaftdpepei
E sing a sadins @chine or a hinged
eyadinsruler besin al noyensts ftum 0,
Fisw '3 6howsense tle pattemwil !€
@ted ontle papd aJtereachmovendt,
(1)MoYeLF 1/8" (0.3@). DEw the cohd
of thecent€rfent nak.
l2)MNe oUT In6 (0.2 cf,) ^id W 718"
(0.3m). DFw the sh@ldac@er of the
(3)Mde O[rI 3/16' (0.5 cn). Dar ine
d$t! .oher ol tlE shoulder,dom to
@itin hding thesleev€notch.
(4)Move,orrlN 1/4" (0.6.m). The lattem
til be hac].on tne hdizontalsradeline.
D6w ftun jlst beloe the slede notcl
to tle tat part of tne mscy€, stopping
ab@t1 (2.5m) lron theintdsectjo! oI
theam*re ed tnesidesm.
(5)MoYeoU? 1/4" (0.6 cd. TrE pattem
snoddbeondE no@mtalsntle lile ad
the6 sEde, 1/2" (1,3cn) fromtheE
ticd Fade line,D.awthe@.cye cmer
(6)Mo€ ,OWx 1/8" (0.3 dn). Dnt the
waisuin€@ at thesiiles@,
(?)Move ,Ort 1/8" (0-3 m). Dnr the
side*@ comd at tlE nedine.
(8)Mde IN 1/4" (0.6 cd). Dras the nid
sctid ol tle hedine,
(9)Move Irv 14" (0.6 cn). The pattm
slodtl be backon tne vdti.al stadeline
dd 1/4" (0.6 dl) belo* ute hdlzontal
gmdeline. Dmw fte centerfrcnt comd

't\__,_,

o o

't25
 ,I

ll

o)\r
(2J\I

Using the odginal lattem as a 8xide,

bbnd tne ]in€s at the neck, shoulder,dm {3)rn
sye, sidesean andhennine.The conpleled
patremsholld he comparedwith Fi!:rre 4 3
(l) IIr

(o \l(

€) \io
Pattern Moi'emerts Fot
.l.ne sanc piocedure is follored as ror
nc.easinsthc sizeblt the directions !i Lhe

Il usinga gradi.g da.hine or a hilsed

gndins tuler, begi. all noves tom 0. ll
gradingby hand,match rhe patieiDto be
gradedto the verticala.d horizonttlSnde
Lineson the prepafedpaDcr.lig:lre 5 3
sho\rswherethe patten is b bc markedon
thcpaperate,ed.nmove.
(1)Morc ,OI'N 1/s" (0.3cn). l)rarv the
.ornerol thecenterlront ncck,
(2)MoveINl/16 (0 2 cn) and,OtrNI/8"
(0,3cn). Drar' theshoulderconrcroi ilrc

(3)Mlrt 1,{ 3/16" (0.5cn). Drawthe ann

scyeconer ol the shoulder,do\{n to and
inclLdingthesleevenotch.
luoveLFll4" (0.6dn). The pattemiill
1,1) +o
be back on lhe horizontal smdc line.
Dnw lron just belorvthe sle€venoich to o
the IlaL pait ol thc armscye, stopping
aboutr' (2.i.n)lromtheintcrseclionor
ihe trnscye andthe sideseam.
(s)Move IN 1/4 (0.6 cn). The patiem
shouldbeontheho.izontal gnde lineand
thefullsrade l / ,2 ' ( 1 . 3 c m ) J r o n t h e v e r
ticalsradeline.Drawrhearftscyecorner

16)Move UP 1/8" {0.3 cn). Draw fte

waistlineareaat thesideseam.
(7)NIoreL/P1/8 (0.3 cn). Draw lhe side
seancorneratthehehline.
(8)MoveOar tA" (0.6cm).Dralvthe n1d
sectionollhenenhne.
1g)NloveOU" r/4 (0.€ cm). Thc patieh
sholldbe backon the lerticalAmdclinc
and 1/4" (0.6 cm) abovethe horizontal
gradeline Draw lhe cenLerfrort corner
o

o
Notes
 DRESS SIIIRT
FRONTSIIIRTBODY

Chartshowinsthe nores in a standardshirt sradeof 2" (5.0cn).

(r) UP DOWN 1/8 (03 cm)

\2) OUT IN
uP DOWN
OUT IN
DOIVN UP
(5) OUT IN 1/4 (06.ml
(6) DOWN UP

o) DOWN UP 1/8 (0 3 cm)

(8) IN OUT
(9) IN OUT

il$
\1
---L-----r

131
 Thegraderw nnd it easierto Sra{jerhe
backbodyand the yoke ol the shirt as one
piece.Usins maskinsiape,altachstripsof
tagbard, approximtely 6' (15.0 cn) by
1/2" (1.3 cm), to the rNo piecesof the
patremandnove theb asa unit.

After the hack body and the yoke hav€

b€en attach€d,being .a.etul to line up the
cents backswnich sill sene as th€ vertical
grade line. The horizontul srade line is
squred lron $e center back, appro!-
nately 1" (2.5cm)beloNtheamscyeai the

Alter the horizontalsnde line nas been

nade, rake two marks on ine edgesof ttre
pattem 1/8" (0.3 cm) dro,€ the line and tne
same distance apart. Make the sme tvo
narks below tle line. The narks strouldbe
@de on both edges oI th€ patte(. S€e

Reler ro the instructions lumished {irl

the equipnent on h@ io @rk the pattdn d
using a gading machineor a hinsed gradins
 r not usins a Fading machineor a
hinsedsladilg (ls, dnv a Yelticallne for
the entd bact. d lold the pap€rFron the
cmte. bact line or lold, squde a honzdtar
sEd€ line apprcdMrely 2 (5 0 cm)longer
thanthepattd rswideat dE back Apprci_
imtely hall w:Y betveD $e hdtontal
sade lile ad tne nsHine of the lattem,
n2te lmr @ks 1/8" (0.3 cn) apart,
ma}inc th€ 1/4" (0.6 cd) dks slisndv
bnea or lEavier to distinsuish tnem
Rdofthe ff r@r ffiks ab@rhall way
betwFn the horizontalsmde line and the
hennineol th€pattem.S@Figure11'3.

J---
Pattern Mo!€m.nts For

Match the patte.n to the vertical and

honzon tai smdeIinesontheueparedpape!.
IJ usins a srading na.hine or a hinged
arading ruler, hegin lll norenents f.on 0.
Ficue 12 3 showswhere the paneft wiu be
markedon the pape.after eachnovenenr.
(r)Mo\€ UP 1/3" (0.3cm).Dra{ the center
backcorneroi lhe shirt body,the lower
comerol the centerback yoke and the
ce.tefbackne.klineol theyoke.
(2) MoveOUr 1n6 (0.2cm)and UP 1/8',
(0.3cnr. Drawtheshoulder.oherol the

(3)Move Oar 3/16" (0.5 cnt. Draw the

shouldercomerol the yokeat the f.ont

(4)Move,OttrN l/8 (0.3 cn). Draw the

lowercorne.of thebackyokear thearm
scyeand the ulper cornerol th. back o
Noter If there is a pleat or shi.ina at the
shoulderbtadearea,nov€ 1N 1/8
(0.3 cn) and dms the shirins
notchesin ihe backbodyand the
cofi€spondFg control noiches in

Be s!.e to nol€ OarT 1/8" (0.3

qn) betore contjnuingwith the

(5)Mose ,OIIN 1/3 (0.3 cnt. Dnw &e

amscyeto wnhinapproximately1 ' (2.5
cn) ol the ,rhscye and side sean

(6)Move Oif 1/4" (0.6 cb), The pattem

shouldbe back on the hodzontalg.ade
line and 1/2' (1.3cm) rrom the verrical
sradelile. Dra$ the amscye comerar

{7) Move ,OrN r/8' (03 cn). Dnn the

(8)IVIore,OitN 1/3 (0,3 cm). Draw rhe
cornerof thesideseasandthehehline.
(9)Move IN 1/4 (0.6 cm). Dralv the nid
secrionof thebackhemline.
i10) Mor€ 1N 1/4' (06 cm). The pactern
shouldbe ba.k on the vertical grade line
and U4 (0.6 cm) belowrhe horizontal
sradeline.Draw the centerbackcorner
 Usins tire original pattem as a sliile,
blend tle lina at tle nec!, shoulder' dn_
scye,sidessh and heoline The comll€ted
pattem shodd be cohpded {ith Fisue
133.
Prttem Mov€moft For
(1) Mde ,OtlN 1/8" (0,3 cm). Draw the
cente. back cmer of the shirt bodr the
lower corne. of fte cent€rbaclr yoke and
the centerback neckcom€r.
(2) Mde IN l/16" (0.2d) md rOrZN l/8 ,
(0.3 cm). Draw the shouldd comer of the

(3) Move IN 3/16" (0.5 m). Draw the

shouldercme! ol the yoke at the front

(4) Move UP 1/8" (0.3 .n). Dhw the lower

come. oI the bacli yok€ at the dGcye
and the upper comer of the bach body ar

(s)Mde aP 1/8" (0.3 cn). Dhy tne

dmscye to qiuin approxinarely 1 ' (2.5
cn) of the amscye ad side sem od t
(6)M@e IN 1/4" (0,6 cm). Tne pattern
shdld be ha.k on the lorizontal erade
line and 1/2" (1,3 cn) iron the vertical 11,3.
snde line. Daw the dmscye comer at
(7)Move t-F 1/8" (0.3 cn). Daw the

(8) Moye LP 1/8" (0.3cn). Draw rhe correr

of tne sidesan andthe nenlne,
(9) Move OUT i/4 ' (0.6 cn). Dw lhe nid
sectionor th. back heniine.
(10) Move Oa? 1/4" (0.6 cn), The Datrem
sholld be back on tne veriical srade iine
and 1/4' (0.6 cn) below the ndjzontzl
grade line. Diae the centd back comer

o
 Using the disirnal pattem as a Elide,
blend the lines at the neck, shoulder, am_
scye,sideseamandhennire The conpleted
pattem shodd he cohpare.l vith Fislre
143.

137
 DRESSSITIRT
BACKSHIRTBODYANDYOKE

Cha.tshowiDsthe
n@esin a standa.d
shirtsndeoi2"(5,0cm).

(l) DOWN
I
\2j

(3)
OUT
UP
OUI
IN
DOWN
1N 3/16 (0.5cfr)
t
(4) DowN l u" I ve,to.:..1
(lf there
G a backpleat or shirins at the shoulder
bladearea,seeNote under(4) onpase00)

(5) DOWN
OUI IN
(7) DOWN UP
(8) DOWN UP 1/8 {03 cm)
{91 IN OUT
(101 IN oul

ij_i
*il i_

:l-iJ
-------t--"-1-

ot_
 DRESSSHIRT COLLAR

The dls shirt coltd is nade in two

liecesi the net bandor stand.hd tne tm (0,6
coUd, The two pattm piea maybe hei
tosetlEr with @mw stripsol tasb@ldad
eradedas oneunit, Tne cotl is norgraded
in Fidth 6eighth) brt ody in the cir-
cumld€ncen*uenent 0ensrn),The roral
collarsmde is 1/2"(1.3cm)d 1/8,{0.3cn)
Fkue .18-3sn@s whererne pattm is
to be drah altu @cl movP

t'(r
(1)Onthe fold of ihe paper,drawthe center
backvidtn of tne coltailor about1,, (Z.s
cn) at the neckedseed the outeredge l
or the colar, Drawthewidth of t1Ene.L-
1 bdd for ab@ttheme diste.e. {o2 r
(2)To in*eNe tne sia of the colar nove
1r Or{f V8" (0-3cnl, Draw rne sholtder
notchon the neck edse&d abot 1/2,,
(1,3cm)on ech sideof tnenotch.Onthe I
outd edge of the collar, oppositethe
shouldernotch, .liaw about the *ne
distafte. D.awtnesaneds onrhenatr

To d&reuse tneste of tne coitr, mee

IN U8' (0.3 cn) ad fotl@ tlrc satue
diHhms s for ino€sing tnesize.
(3JMove OU? 1/8" (0.3cm).Dnw arcDnd
tle restoI the collarad necktand at t1E B
n€ckedgedd theouteredgs,
To makeurecolh smalter,noveLV1/B',
(0.3 cn) beforedBwins the resr of ihe
colar 4d thenet !and. ft
Using the orishat pattms, btend the
1ine6at theneckedgeandthe @te. edseof
tnenewcolld andthene n€ckband
 SHIRT SLEEVE

ah. shirt stede widur will be changeda

totalol1/2" (1.3m) at rhe bic€pand 1/4"
(0.6 cm) at th€ wrisi. Tie sleevelensth wnl
be changeda totzl of 3/8" (1,0 cm) Ior the
lons sleeve. The sho.t sleeve wiu chege
only ln heislth of the capbut not in ldgtn at

All moYesaie nade frm 6qued ver-

tical and hodzontal grade lines, The elain
line @y be usedas the veltiql sradeline on
a sleve that is cut on the st aisht of the
labnc. Tne horizontal srad€ line is squared
lron tne vertical cnde line sothat it is about
2" (5,0 cn) telow the comd ol the intersec-
tion oi the sleve cap and the ude.an

Four naits wil be needed@ the hont

dd back edgesof th€ sleevepatteh, 1/16"
(0.2 cn) abovethe horizontzl srade line and
tne sme distanceapart.Ma&etne samefour
Mrks lelow the honzontal srade line. See

Reler b tne hstructions nnished wit])

lhe €quipmentm how to @t ihe patl€m il
usinga Aradingmachined a hingedgnding

r a sddins macnineor a hinsedsmdins

tuld is beingusedit wil norbenecessy to
@he any marlrson the paperon wlicl the
Ii gnding !y hand,drawa vedicalsEde
Ine anolt 2" (s.0cm)lonserttrd dresleeve
dd a honzmtalsradelineabout2" (5.0cm)
lonsd thanthesleve is wideat thehorton
ral siade lire. On @ch sideol the vdticzl
gdde line at the top dd botton, daN fou
vedicallins l/16 ' (0,2cn) frm therenicar
snde line anddresme distanceapart.See fl

r
Pattcrn Mo\cn.nis For

lI usinsa sradirg nrafhi.. .r a hi.gcd

gRdrg mlcr bcsin all n.r.s from l). If
sDdhg by hand,mat.h thc paLtcinto bc
gudcd to tie vcrticaLand h.riz.ntal smdc
hes on the preparedpaper.Figure 2l3
sho$swherethe pattemis to be markedon
the Fnperalter eachmore.'1helront hali ol
the sleeresill be gradedJnsl. \[hen Lhe
ircnt hasbeen.onpleted.Iolloi thd same
directionsIor gladlnsthe back hall of rhe
slee{e notils the chaDses in ihe dire.tions
oithe a)L7 a.d lNmoves.
{l) Move IiPIl3" (0.3.n). Nlaikthe.enter
.otch on ihc slccy. caF DBw about2
(5 0 cm)oncachsidcol thccc.tcr notch.
(2) Move,OIrlV l/16' (0.2 .n) and OaJl
1/16 (0.2cnD cortirue the line drawn
lor (1),stoppinsabout2 {5.0cn) rror
tnecomerof Lheunderamseam
(3)I'Iove DOI|N r/16" (0.2cm) a.d Oa,?
3/16' (0.5 cn). The patten shouldbe
back oD the hoizontal sRde hre and
l/4" (0.6cm)lrom thevefical Eradeline.
D.awthelDdeiarncorner. (4)Move ,DOltrNl/3' (0.3 .n). Drarvthe
N.re: lf grading a shotr sleeve lhc
undcramlcnstbdocsnot chansc. (5)More rO /N1/3 (0.3cn) and1lf 1/3'
Aitef completinrmoYe(3), dras (0.3 cD). Draw the Mht cornerot tle
the underarmcorner,continuing
down to the hen .ofte! t. con Note:The .uff may be ath.hed to the
Dlete$e snding of the lront hall boitomof thesleeveandsradedat
ol the sleeve.To grade tne ba.k Lhesametine.The cufi doesnot
haltofthe sho.tsleeve, repeatthc change in depth only in cir
sane seies ol moveson thc back cumtcrcnce,a rohl ot 114,,(0.6
olihe sle€vebesinnnrsNith(1). cm)or1/8 (0.3cm)atea.hcnd.
Repal enti.e procedureto srade the
backha! or thc sleeve.Ane. the fronrand
bacli halvesof the sleevchavebeengrad€d,
blend rne lnes at thc cap, undera.nr seab
and wrist, lsing the originalFatten as a
o
 Pattern Movements For
lf usins a gmdingnacnineor a hin*d
gradins nn€r, begin arl nov6 trcn 0: rf
gading by lund, baich tne pattem to be
Erded tothe rertotdd horizontat grade
bes on the prepred paler ligue 22.3
showsyhere the pattemis ro beba.ked on
thepapd afterea.hnove.
Th€ rront ha{ ot tte sleevewit be
sradedn6t. WhentlE front hasbed con
pleted, follow the sne dnectioG lor
gnding the backhau ol the sreeve- notinq
thechansesi. ttredjrectionsoi theOLTea
(1) Move ,orhr' t8,, (0.3 cn). Marr rhe
center notch on fie steevecap. Dav
ab@t2" {5,0m) on eachsideor thc
(2)More !P 1/16" (0.2 cn), Conrinuethe
line drawnfd (1),sroppingab@t2', (5,0
cn) lron the comer ol $e unddam
(3)Moye.IP 1/16' (0,2cn) andIN J/r6,,
(0,5cm).The pattemsholld be backon
the horlzontalsEde line and 1/4,, (0.6
cml fmn the vertical srade line. Dh{
Note ft siadinca stod sle,e, seeNote
Dder (3)onpag€00.
(4)Moye {,P 1/8" (0.3cn). Drawrheelboy

{5)Movea,F1/8 (0.3col andOar t/8,

(0.3 cn). Drae tne vrist coe€r of the

, .R€pftr entre preedure |o grad€ rle

@( d1 0r the neeve. After the rront ald
oacK_hrvesorthe sleoe havebeensEded.
use ue ongrnal pattem e a slide ro bte&l

placket renaiis the s@e for

, Tbe aI
 o-

T 145
 SHIRTSLEEVE
'Ine novesare
Chartsn@ingthenoveslor theshirt sle;Yesrade. sive! for tneftonr halfof
tne sieeve.To sr;d. ut backhalf of the sleeve,lolow the samednecionsgivenior the front,
notingthechanges in thediectionsol therr' andOU? noves.

+----i-----------1-----1--

(1) UP DOWN
(?) DOWN UP
OUT IN
(3) DOWN UP
O U T IN
(4) DOWN l / 8 ( 03 . m )
(s) DOWN UI
IN OUT

=...I..-------.)-.:
 SPORTSHIRTS
Sportshntsfor nrenareaeneralysoldin Soat (S),Mediun (M), Larse(L)andEat6 Large
(IL). Thedifierence in cncunrerence arthechesr,waistandhipis4',(10.0cn)persize.
If the graderh^ .arefully studiedthe @ctiononsradinsdressshirtsit win not benecessary
to go into detailfo. the sportshirt stading,The folowins cnartior eachcomponentof thesDort
shirt lront body,backbody(vith or withouta yoke),colar md steeve.shouidsuliice.

SPORTSHIRT
FRONT SHIRT BODY
Chartshowincthenovesin a standardsporrshirtsladeot 4 , (10.0.n) persize.

(1) Nonora Drawcdte.frontne.k.omer

(2) DOWN
OUT IN
(3) OUT IN 1/2 (1.3cm)
(41 DOVN UP
(5) OUT IN 3/8 (1.0d)
(6) DOWN UP
(7) DOWN UP
(81 IN olrT 1 (2.s.h)
-_-i_-
 :11,
i\i
Ii-l-t
lliil
o

1r

T J
I
 SPORTSqTRT
BACK SI{IRT BODY

sportshirtsmdeoi 4" (r0.0cn) persize.

Chartshowingthen@esir a standard

(1) No hove - Draw centerback necl .omer

\2) UP DOWN
OUT IN
(3) OUT IN 1 / 2 ( 1 3c m )
DOWN UP
(5) OUT IN
DO1VN UI

\'7) DOWN UP
(81 IN OUT 1 ( 2 . 5( m )

150
'-4------').---
l-).
o

-+-------+-----i-

'-1'---"-i

151
 SPORT STIIRT SLEEVE

Chart showingthe moveslof the 4 sport shirt grade.The movesare give. for the Jronrhatl
oI the sleeve.To sradethe back hall ol the sleeve,follow the san€ directionsgiven ro. rhc frcnt,
notins the chancesin the directionsor LbeIN andOt? moves

(1) UP DOXN

\2) DOWN UP
OUT IN
(J) DOWN UI
OUT IN
(4) DOWN
(s) UP
]N OUT

I
 g
5

------------\--

E
.en

153
 SPORTSIIIRT
COLLAR
'r.he
spon shirt collar lor tbe 4" (10.0
cft) grade is not changedin width, onb nr
the circunlerenceneasurenent' a total ol
l '(2.5cn)or 1/.1 (0.6cm)perquarter.
liiSxre 373 showsrvhet the Fartem h
to bedrarvDafter e4h move.
(1) On the foldoi the Daper,drawthe center
back\yid$ ol the collarior aboutr" €.5
cn) ai the neck edce a.d fie ourer edce

(2)To increasethe sizeol the collar,move

OUr r/4 (0.6cn). Draw the shoulder
notch and the neck edge and about 1/2"
(1.3cm)on eachsideol thenoLch, On the
o!te. edge,oppcite the shouldernotch,
dms aboutdresamedistance.
To decreasethe size ol tne collar, nove
/N l/4 (0.6 .n) and follow the sane
directioGaslor increasins thesize.
(3) Move OarI V4" (0.6cm).Draw around
the rcst of the cotlarat the neckand outer

To decreasernecollar,noveIN 1/4" (0.6

cn) bero.edra*inc tne rest of dre colar.
Notes
 JACKET WITH LAPEL

Ihe .onvenhonat slorrsjacketw rh a

rapelandfwopiee sleve is gene€ty sold
by cnestsueandrequnes a {andard2 15.0
cn) 3nde. due to the c@strucrionof rhc
jacket,i.e.,tbe sideseaohoyed towardtbe
backandihe twopiae 6leev.,thedeas that
arehcr€aEd or dedeasednst b€adjust€d
ll

s
All movesae hade lron squaredver
ticlr and horizontalsmde lines. Sincethe
fmnt e<igeof thejaclet is not a straishtline,
a velticai line nust be d.avn. The verricar
Sradeline shouldhe the true centerlronr of
the ja.tet, ueally pa.:[€l witb tle gain
line. Tle nori2onralsnde line is squred
Iroo tne yertical srade line to a poinr
apprqinateiy 1" (2.5 c4) belowthe am.
scye-Alter the horizontalsrade line tas il\ t\
beenestablished, nake two narl<son the \\\
edsesol the pattem1/8' (0.3cm)drow the
lire md the samedistace apart.Mak€ tie
\\\
@e two @ks ,eloe the line, Th€ mrks
sh@ldbenadeonbotneds6 of tle patrem.
i\l
I \l
Reterto the instructionstumishedwith
theequiprent onnowto hark thepartd it
usinsa gnding nachineor a hingedsyadins /r-\il
jj
lj
Pattem Movem€nts For

Matcl the latt€m to the veltical dd

horizonhl gradelines on thEpr€pared!a!er.
lf using a gmdins nachine or a hinged
grading ruler legin all dovenenls lmn 0.
Fig!re 40'3 shds {here the patt€m wil be
mrked onthe pap€rafter eachmovenenr.
(1) Move UP 1/8" (0.3 cm). Dnw the comer
oi the tapel,inchdins the top edgeto tie

(2) Moye OU? 1/8 (0.3 cn) and tP 1/8

o
(0.3 cn). Draw tne shouldercdner oi ihe
(0.3r
(3) Moye OU? 1/8 (0.3 cn). Draw the am- c o
scyecorner of the shodder, down io ad

(4) Move ,OWN 1/4" (0.6 cm), The paitern

will be back on the lorizontal snde line.
Draw from jNt belowthe sl€evenotch to
I
vhe.e the lattem begins ro flanen out o
(5) Move OU? 1/4" (0.6 cm). Draw to wnat
wornd be the nornEl point of rhe side
sean, lslally indi.ated by a notch at the ) ll
(6) M@e OrT r/8" (0,3cm). Daw to the

(7) Move rotlN 1/8" (0.3 cn), Draw the

waisflinea.eaat the sean,
(8) Move DOI4r' 1/8 ' (0.3 .&). Dnw the
o
seao comerat the hennine. o
(9) Move/r' t8 ' (0.3cn). Draw the hentine
ata just belw ihe @scye.
(10)Moye IN 1/2" (1.3ch), Draw the cenrer
rront comerof the jacket. Oo) llo
(1tl Moye UP 1/8' (0.3 cn). Draw rhe

l-\1
vaisiline aea on the center loni of &e GD Md
jactet, jnchding the beginnins of the
lower edgeoi the lalet.
Usidg the onginal pattern as a snide,
blend the lin€s at the lapel, nectr,shoulder,
amscye, std€s@n and hen ne.

o o
o

--
----
l,att rn Movemerts Fot

Malcl the patiernto the t.ti.al and

ho.izortalgmdelinesontheprepared paper'
li $ing , gradingnachine or a hinged
srading tuler ncr:n al movenrentsfron 0
Figurc 41'3 showslvhere the pattefr x te
ndked onthe pape.,lter eachmotment
rl) Nlove,OrilN 1/8 {0 3 cm). D.!w the
conrerof the lapel,includingthe top edge
Lothere icalgmdeline
12)Move1N 1/3 (0.3cn) androltlN t8"
(0.3cm).DEw th€ shoulder cornerot ihe

L3)Mo\e .IN 1/8" (0 3 .n) Draw the ard

scyecoher ol thc shodder, do\n to and

rl)luove UP 1/4" (0.6cnt, The pattemrvil

ire back on the horizlntal grade ljne
Drai ironjust belowthe sleet notchto
whcr th€ pattern besins io natten out

1;) NloveIN 1/4" (0.6 cn) Draw to ihat

\rould be th€ nordal poirt ol ihc side
sean,u$rallyindicated b!-a notchat the

6) Move a/F 1/8' (0.3cm).Dnv ihe sam

i) Move UP 1/8' (03 cn) Draw lhe

waistlineareaat the sean.
jl Move L/Pl/8" (0.3cn). Draq the sean
come.at thehenline.
!r)Move Og? 1/8 (0.3 cm). Drai the
henline !.ea just belowthe arnrscve
l0) Move OU? 1/2' (1.3 cn) DraN the
cenLer lronl.ornerof thejacket
11)MoverotlN 1/3' (0.3cn). Draw dre
lvaisuinearea on tl]e cencerliont ol the
jack.l, includingtle beginningor the
lo$eredgeof thelaPel
Usnrs de orkinal Datternas a clide,
:::nd the linesat the lat)el,neck,shoulder,
:ascye, sideseamandhennine.
 FRONTJACKET BODY

Cha.tshoNinsthe jacketg.adeof2, (5.0cn)

novesi.a standard

(1) UP DOWN
(2) OUT IN
IJP DOWN
(3) OUT IN
DOWN UP
(5) OUT IN
(fil OUI IN 1/8 (0.3cm)
o) DOWN uP 1/8 (0.3cm)
(s) DOWN (JP
(9) IN OUT
00) IN OUI l/2 t1Jcml
(11) UP DOWN

t'i
h]
ii

iTri
'-'i-'-'--'f

161
 All mova de made lron squaredver
tical and honzontal srade [nes. If ihe back
edseor tne jacket is not a stnignt lne, a ver-
tical gade line nust be dawn, usually
pa.allel with the enin line. The horizontal t
giade line is squred lbm the ve.tical Erade
line to a point approxinately 1 (2.5 cb)
below the mscye. After the horizontal
giade line has been established,nake two
mrk6 on the edsesoi the pattem t/8" (0.3
cn) dro@ the lin€ and the sam€ dbtmce
apart. Make tne sme two narks ,,1,u tle
line, The mdhs should te @de on both
edgesol the pattdn. SeeFielc 45-3,
Reler to the in6t(ctio.s tuhished with
fte equipnent on how to @.k the patem if
usinga Syadinghachine or a bingedArading
 r not uuu a gradils Dachtneor a
hinsedsradingrul€r, dcw a verticalsratte
line on tle paperapprcxi@telyZ" (5.0cm)
bng6 tnandreverticaleradeline @ thepar
tem. At dre top dd bott@ of thls srade
line, nale 6ree marls 1/8" {0.3 @) Iim
the g6de line andtle sane disialce apan,
Fron the vertical Bradeline, sqMre the
horihntal lrade line apprcnmt€ly 2' (5,0
d) ldger $d tle latt€m is wide at the
clesnine.SeeFisue 46'3.
 Pallern llowcmenrs For

Match ihc pafte,nio rhe ve ical and

rorzontalg.adclfes ontheDr€larcdpaFr.
! usns , srading ma.htne or a hjnsed
gra'1mgfule. beginall r.renenrs lron r) \l
Figlre 473 showsnhererhcparLen\,i| be
narkedonthc DaDer aiter.achD.vcnreni
(l)More a? 1/3 (0.3cfr) Dra* rhe.o,ner
at the.e.terbactof theneck.
(2)Movo OUT l/8" (0.3cn) and irp 1/s,,
(0.3cn, Da{ the shoutder cone. !l the
( 3 ) N l o v eO t ? 1 / 3 ' ( 0 3 c n t . D , a w t h e
shoutdercorner .f rtre amrscye.down ro
aDdincludi.rithenor.hcs.
(,1)Move,O tlrN 1/4" (0.6cn). Thcpaftern
w i l lb - b a . k. n L h eh o u o n t u t s r a d .n e
D ,N lroh jusr ud4 rhe\ r.\ e h.r.hes
Lorvnererhc arnscye beginsto .unre.
(5) Mor€ a)i/I 1/3 (0.3cn). Draw the arm
s$'e coheratthesean.
(6) Move DOJI'N 1/8" (0.3cm). DEw the
warsa'ne areaat theserm.
(7)IIore ,OtlN 1/8' (0.3 cm) Dfw the
seancome.at nrehemliDe.
(3) NlovclN 3/8 (1.0cn, D'awrhccenrcr
backcorneratthe henline.
(9)Mdve L? t/3" (0.3 cm). Draw rhe
ndstlidearea!t thecenterback.
Using rhe ofsina pa$em as j srde.
bknd ihe iinesir t r neck..houldrr,rrm
scye,s'de seah,heblineandccnterba.k
Pattern Movements For

l,Iaich the pattern to the vertical and

honzontalsradelines on tne preparedpapcr.
If lsing a gradingnachine or a hingcd
sradins ruler besin aU morenents ton l].
ligure 48 3 showswhere the pattem rvilt be
ndked ontheFaDeraltereach movenenl.
(1)Move,OtlN t/8' (03 cm). Drarvthe
.omeratthecenterback of the.e.k.
( 2 ) M o v e1 N { 0 . 3c n ) a n dr O W N l / 8 ' ( 0 . 3
cm), Drarv rhe shouldercolncr ol the

{3)More IN 1/8" (0.3 cn). DnN the

shouldefc.mcrofthe armscye, doM io
andhcLudinsthenotches.
(,1)MoveUP 1/,1' {0.6.d). The panemrvill
be back on the horiz.ntalsrade line.
Dnw Jron jusl underthc sleevenltches
to wheretheamrscye beginsio cune.
(5)MoveIN 1/8' (0.3cm). Draw the arm
scyecomerattheseam.
(6)I,love .'? l/8' (03 cn). Dian the
wlisdineareaat thesea6.
17)Moye a/P1/3 (0.3cn) Drai the seam

l8)Move OU? 3/8 (1.0 cm). Draw the

centcrback.o,ncrattho hcmline. o o
19)Move,OtltN 1/8' (0.3 cm). Dra$ the
waistlineareaat the centerback.
Usins the orisinal Dattern as a slide,
irle.d the li.es at the neck.shoulder,
am
sqe,sidesean,henlineandcenLerback.
 Thejacketcollaris not g.adedin width,
onlyin thc length neasurenent.I t is eraded
a totar.l 3/4" (1.9cn) 3/16 (0.5cm) in
(3)NloveOU? 3/16 (0,5 cn). r-1'
Fisue 49 3 showswhe.e Lhepatlern is to lmnt edgesof the collarat the

On the lold oI thepapc.,dlaN the.enter To nake the colar snallcr,

backrvidthoi the collarror aboutr" (2.5 3/16"(0.5cm)beioredravjng
cn) at the neck edseandih. outer edge.
(2)To incrcasethe sizeof the collar,nove Usethe o.iginalcolar to blendthe lines
Oar 3/16" (0.5cn). D.av ihe shodder at the neck edge lnd the oute. edge ol fte
notch on tle neck edge and alout 1/2"
(1.3cm)oneachsideof thenotch.On rhe
outeredge,olpositethe shouldern.rch,
drarvabolt the samedistance.
To de..easc the size o1rhe collar, nove
IN 3/16 (0.5cn) and followth€ sane
l
di.ecLionsasfor incieasingthe size o
I

BACI{ JACKETBODY
Chartshovinstne jackersradeot2, (5.ocn).
novesinastandard

(r) DO\[ N

t2) OUT IN
UP DO$IN

OUT IN 1/8 (03 Lm)

(4) DOl!\ UP
(5) OUI IN
DOWN 1 / 8 ( 0 . 3! m r

DOWN UP
(3) ]N olt t
UP DOWN
i=--
 TwoPiece

The gnin line on rhe top sleevecan

a verticalgmde line. It
attaching rhemder sl€eveto ir, besu.erhat
ihe grainlineon the mde. slecveis parallel
to ihe grain line on tne top steeve. 'fhe
horizontalamde line is squarcdlron rhe
verncalgnde line on the top slceveso rhat is Althoughthe rwopatrernpiecesmaybe
approximately 1 ' (2.5ch) belowfte am gqded sepa.atelyit is usualy easierand
scyeonthe uder sleeve.lou.markswiltbe norc accurateto s.ade them as a unit by
necdedonihe edgesoi the toDsleele,1/16,, attachmgthen togethe. wirh .arow stips
(0,2cm)aboveLhehorizontal gradelineand ot tagboardheldin ph.ewith maskinstape,
rhcsam€distance apart.Makcthesme four
marksbelowtbe horizontalgmdeline.See
lisure 53.3.Referto thc insrructions lur
nishedwith the eqlipmenton how Lomaik
the pattetu if usi.g a sradins nlchine or a
 If eradins by machine or a hinsed
snding rule! it will not benecessaryto nale
any mrks on fte paper on wnich the nev
sire will be drawn. If sradins by hand,drat
a rertical line about 2" (5.0 cn) longer tha.
the ve.tical erade line on tle pattem and a
honzontal Eyade line about 2" (5.0 cm)
longer than fte ho.tontal srade line on the
sleeve.On eachsideoi the rertical gradeline
at tne top and botton, draw sir veitical
smde lines 1/16 (0.2 cm) lron the nertical
smde line and the saDe distmce apart, See

r
Pattern Movements For

Ii usihs a Eyadingmachineor a hinged

Anding ruler, begin all movs frcm 0. if
Srading by hmdi match the patteh to be
Sradedto the venical and horizontal grade
lines on the prepar.d paper. Figure 55.3
showsyhere the pattern is to be d.avn on
the paper after each move. Unlike other
sleevepattems which are gradedii6t on the
tunt nat ol the sleeveand then on the back
ha]l ol rle sleeve, the tso piec€ sleere
besinsat the back half ol the top sle€veand
continuesall aroundtbe two pieces,ending

(t)Move OUI l/8" (0.3cn), CheckFigue

55-3 and be sue tnat the lirer boye is
towdds the back ol the top sleev€(onthe
left in the illustmtion). Draw tne back
come. of the top sleeve.
(2)More .F 1/16' (0.2cn) md 1tr'1/16"
(0,2cn). Dnw the areaol the back capot
thetop sleeve, stopping about2" (5.0cm)
ftom ine .enter ol the ca!.
(3)Mov€ UP 1/16" (0.2 cn) and 1N 1/16
(0.2 cn). Dmv the ce.ter of the cap of

(41Maw DOI|N 1116 10.2cn) ed OUI

1/16 (0.2 cn). Dd{ the lront sectionol
tne deevecapo! the top sleve.
(5)Move,Olrr' V16' (0.2cd) and OUt
1/16 (0.2cm).Dw the front comeroJ
the top sleeveand the lront comer of rhe (11)MoveIN l/8" (0.3cm).DraNthe fo.t
comeroitheundersteeveat theMisl
(6) Move DOfi.N l/8" (0.3 cn), Draw tle (r2)MoveLry1116 1o.2cmlDraq
elbow area on the lrcnt lan ot the rop therr.ni
kist cornerof the top sleeve.
sleene and the lront part ol rhe lnder (131MoleOLTttowdd die bdcklt/8 (o3
.mr. Mark the brck wri$.omd oI the
(7)Move OU? r/8" (0,3 cm). Draw to the
center ol the under sleeve at tbe (r4)MoYe
Otfrn6 (0.2cn)md ap v8"
{0,3cn). DnP theelbowareaat thp
(8)Move OU? 1/8" (0.3 cn) and U? 1/8,
(0.3 cn). Draw the back corner ol the
und.r sleeveat the a.nscye
(g)Move,OlilN 1/8" (0.3 cn). Draw the
elbowarea o. the back part ol rhe unde.

(r0) Move ,OrYN 1/8" (0.3 cm) and IN

1/16 {0.2cm).Drawthe backwrist cor
nerol theundersleer.
\o
Pattm Movements For
If usinga gradirs tuchine or a hirsed
entti.g rurer, negin aU moveslron 0, Il
Andhg by n&d, @tch the pattem to be
smdedto the !€.tical aod horizmratgrade
lines on tne preparedpaper. Fie!re b6,3
shom vhde the pattm is to ne dnm on
thepap€raJterach no@.
(1)Moye 1N 1/8 (0.3 cn), CheckFirue
56-3andbe suretnat rhefi.st bohis ar
dtebackol thetop sleye. Drawrhebact<
comerof rhetopsl@fe.
l2) MayeDOI/VN1116"(0.2 cn) and OUT
1/16"(0.2cm).Dnr thedea @ theback
op of tne top eleye, stoppingabout2,
(5.0cn) frh tn€cdter of rhecap.
(3)MoveIDWN 1116 (O-2cn:)dd OOT
1/16" (0,2 ml, Dnv tne cent€rol rhe
(4)Md€ a,Pt16 (0.2cn) and1{ t/16,
(0,2 cm). Draw the lmnt secrim of the
sleevecaponthetopsleve.
(5) Move aP 1/16 (0.2 cn) and/ir' 1/16
(0.2cm).Dae thelrcnr coh€r of thetop
sleeyead the lrcnt cmer oI rhe under
(6)Move UP 1/8 (0-3co), Drawthe elhow
dea otr th€ lront part oi rhe top slftve
@dthefront pnt ol theuder sleeYe.
(7)Move IN 1/8" (0.3 cn). Dhw to rhe (r2) MoveOU? 1/16,,(0,2
centd ol the udd sleye at the co), Dra, the
hontMistcomsofthetoDsleeve.
(8)Mde IN t8" {0.3cn) dd DotlN 1/8', (13)Move/d taky trom$e backrt8 (0,3
(0.3 cm). D6r tie liont coher ot ure cnl. Mdl the hack wrtsr come. of rhe
undersl@veat the@sye. (14)Move//r' t/r6 (02 cd) and tp l/8,
(9)MoveLF (0.3cn). Dhv the elb@ dea
on$e backpartof theuder sl*ve. {0.3cm).
D€w r}eerbowarea at theback
(10)Movea/" 1/8"(0.3m) andOt? 1/16,,
(0-2cn). DraF tne backMist comerof __ Ure fte qis/dal pattem,s a slide to
D dd he hnesar tne apj uderam seaG
01) Move Ou? V8" (0.3 m} Draw the
lrcnt come. oi tne fider steeveat the

172
I

r'n3
 TWOPTECEJACKET SLEEVE

Chart snowins the nors in a standardjacket gede !j 2 ' (5.0 cn). AI noves aie nade tN
andOUT fron vertical sradeline. Tne rirst nove is at the tack oi the top sleeve.

OUT IN

\2) UP DOWN
IN OUT
(3) U? DOWN
Di OUT
DOWN UP
OUT IN
(5) DOWN UP
OUT IN
(6) DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3.m1
o) OUT IN
(8) OUT IN
DOiTN
(9) DOWN

o0) DOTVN UP
IN OUT
(t1) IN OUT
\r2) IN OUT
o3) OUT IN
(14) OUT IN
UP DOWN
 E
$
II
1)
.- "1

,-----=:.-:----.i

'---..--.-"-. \

-_.-.,_.,-.,--.,"i'-'
Notes
 SLEEVE AND BODY CUT IN ONE

Although de sleeveod tody clt in one,%iouslv .efered to as theumountedsleeveor the

kinono sl;ve, is not {ideLv sed in netrt v€d theF are a nunhe. ot vdiarionsusingdiff€renr
ryl" us rtr' an b" g€o"d asa ur byJorning+edq-ed praestosefier with snall stripsol

Fisue 59 3 shoss mne oI the style mriahons.

',
-:-a-'t----

,-/)/r'-

-"--l--------1--

f:",,i
"'--r-1+
o) DO\4\

\2) OUT IN
DOWN
(31 OUT IN
our IN
(sl oul IN
(6) OUI IN
(7) DOWN
IN OUT
DOI\'N UI

DO$'N

(t0) I\ OUT
 (1) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3o)
(2) OUT IN
UP DOWN
(3) OUT IN
OUT IN
(5) OUT IN
(6) OUT IN
<?) DOWN UP
(8) IN OUT
DOWN UP 1/8"(0.3m)
(9) DOWN UP l/8 (0.3(m)

o0) IN OUT U l ( 1 3c n )

i-------r-'.-
i
--;-----
----i--
-f
L
-+--------F--+---
 i r, /\
i il:-,'

131
 IIAGLAN SLEEVE

I tneJagld sleere is clt in tvo pieces,i.e.. with a seao on the shoulderlom the neck edse
to tle 6d of tne sb€ve, it is gene.ally e6jer to anach the front steeveto rhe front bodv eith
siripsf iagbodd, aitaclr ihe back sleevero th€ bact body in rhe samenahner, and 8lad€ as a
unit. lor tne r.ont body and sleeve,.eler to rhe direcrionson lage 177, Sleevead B&r, CLt ln
One.For thebackbodyandsl€eve, relerto pase180.
The JoLLow 1g dire,roi. re gi\"n Io- 'i" rcnr booywrl d e ractanstpcver cn I ore

o) DOWN l/8 (03 cml

t2) OUT IN
UP DO!!N
OUT I N
DOWN UP
OUT IN
DOWN UP
(s) OUT IN 1 / 8 ( 0 3c m )
(6) DOWN UP

o) TN OUT

L
--i:-t:--i-
 Bsck Body, Otre Piece R6glu Steeve

o) UP DOWN 1/8 (0 3 cm)

(2) OUT IN
UP DOlVN
(3) OUT IN
DOWN UP
OUT IN
DOWN UP
(s) OUT IN 1/8 (0.3cml
(6) DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3cd)
(7J IN OUT 1/2 (1.3ftrl 1 (2.5cn)
 o
-1'---"1

o
 One Piece Ragld Sleele
DnectionsaresivenId tnetunt hali ol thesleeve.Alter the {iont halt ot tnesleeveis con
pleted,reput ihe MmeprocedlreonthebacknauoJrhesteeyE.

€r fia
"i' €
a
N
E q
: c

aa EE!
66

BB 3

d
$
q
Notes
 TROUSERS

Mens trcsere are generallybtught by

varst measuredentvith the hens d d'fi.
left u'riinished,She drss trouseFwiu be
siad vitn only 1 ' (2,5 cm) diffeence in
waist nGurement but nost sportwd
t ousersnave a 2" (5,0 cm) difi*ence in
waist nea6u.emenLs. OccasionaltytrdseA
aresoldin SmaU, Mediummd large it ihere
is elasti.or a drawsrringat thewaist.
ahe loUowingdi.ectionsare lor tne 2 ,
(5,0 cn) gud€.r the otner srad4 are
needed, referto thechartoh pase194.

lf

IJ

Arl nor€s de @d. frcn squaredver-

tial and holizoDtalgrade[nes. The srain
linemy be ued a the v€rti.algEdeI de,
To nake ihe horizonuls€de titre, squle
rrom the vertical Brade line ro a poinr
approri@rely2" (5,0 chl beld ihe lrobt
dorcn cmd andthen€xtendtne[ne to the r/8" (0
outerhip.Aiter thehorizontalsade line has
b.en nade,nDte two mls on t!€ edsesof ?F3.
the pattem1/8" (0.3cn) alole the tjne fld
fie sde distan@apart.Makethesde tm
mks belq the horimral sradeline. The
mrks shduld be m loth etlg6 of the

Relerto the insla.tio6 wirh the equip-

frert on how to rurt the pattemit ueng a
eradingmchineor a bjnged FadinAtute!.

133
 E a grad'rs tucljne or a hilged gtding
tuler b beingsed it wil lot be ne@ssy to
bake dy @ks on ihe papq o! which the

lf sGdirg by hand,both a verhcal oil a

noriantal snae [ne will be n€eded,D6F a
yeitiel line apprditutely 2 (5.0 cn)
lolgd tld the pets ed a hdizotal 8:ade
li@ apprcxinately 2" (5-0 cD) widd thd
tle puts at tlE lDrj@ al srade line, On
eacl Bideol ttE trtical gail€ line at the top
mtl bottom, dhw folr shdt v€rtical liG
t8" (0,3 @) d ach siil€ ol the vertical li@
od tle s@e distee apart, Se Fkrire
713.
Pattern Molemerrs For

Ii lsins a sradinsnachincor a hinged

gradingrulcr, beginall noves fom 0. If
sradi.g by hand,matcnthe patternto be
eyadcdro the vertical and toizontal grade
lincs on the prepared paper. Figxre ?6 3
shons rvheretle partern is to bc mark."don
Lhepaperaltereachmove.
(1)Move UP 1/4'(0.6.n). Drawthecenter

(2)MoveOUr U,! (0 6 cn). Drawrheeea

at the niddle oJ rhc waisdine.r the
t.ouse6arepleated,the pleatswouldbe

(3)Movc OUrll4 (0.6cm).Dnrv the side

seancoine.atrhewaisrline.
(,1)Mo\€ rOn|N 1/4" (0.6cn). The pattern
shouldbeonthehorizontalgradelineand
1/2 (1.3cm)fromtheverticalgradetine.

Note If gnding shorts rhat end more

than hali way above the crctch to
kneelengLh,aiter conptetins(4),
move IN ro rerticat snde line,
drarv the insean come. at hen and
proceedrvith (9)
(5) Mor€ ,OltlN ,8 ' (0.3 cn). D.aw the
thigh areato th€ knee.
Notei If erading shorts that end mde
than half vay beloN Lhecrotch to
IIee tengrh, alte. comDleting(5),
move 1N to verticalarade line,
draw the inseaft cornerar hem a.d
ProceedNith(9).
(6) MonerolilN 1/8' (0.3cn)and 1N 1/8,
(0 3 cm). Draw henline corner oj
(8) More UP 1/8" (0.scr). Dnw rhet nee
(9) Move UP 1/8" (0,3 cm) and 1N r/8 , (0.3
cn). The pauern will be back on the
horizontal Eyade lineed IN r/3 (0.3cn)
lrom the vertical s€de lin€ in order ro
exlend the cDtch. Dds the .rotch cor
ner, tape.ing to nothi.g ab@t a rhid ot
thedistance to theknee.
Using the original paiteft, blend the

Note: Ii house. h€m is fiared or is wider

thd hiplin€, do nor nove 1N
(7)Moye 1N 3/8" (1.! cn). The pattem
should be on the vertical arade tine ad
1/4 (0.6 cn) below the horizonralsrade
line.Drav th€ henlinecomerar rha in

Note: Ii no IN norc was nade on (6),

nrove IN 1/2" (1.3 cn) before
dnwing insean cornerat irehline.
Movements For DecreasitrgSiz€:
If usinsa g€dins maclineor a ninsed
Eradms ruler, besin all noves iron 0, r
Bradins by hand, natch rhe pafiem ro be
snded to the vertical and hoizontat srad€
Iinesonthe preparedpaper.
Fignre 77'3 showswhere the patten is
to benarl€d o. the paperafter eachnove.
(1)Move ,OWN 1/4' (0.6 cm). Draw rhe

(2)Move..r'r'1/4" {0.6cn). Dnw tneareaat

the middle ol tne waistline. Il trcusers
are pleated,the pleats shouldbe harked

(3)Mov€ ,or' 1/4' (0.6 cn). DraN the side

seancomerat thewaistline.
14)M6e LP Il4" (0.6 cn). The patrem
shouldbe on the horizontarsradeline ad
1/2" (1.3cm) lrom the vertical snde tine.

Note r siading snoits $ar end do.e

than hali way above the uorch to
knee lensth, afier completins (4),
nove OUa to yeltical gmde li.e
ud dnv inseam come. at hem.
Poceedwith (9).
(5) Move aF 1/3" (0.3 cn). Draw the thisn

Note Il gyadins shorts that end nore
than hall way below the crotch
to knee length, alter conplering
(5), move Oar io vertical grade
line &d dnw imean corne. at
hen. Proceed with(9).
(6) Move UP 1/8' (0.3cml and OaT r/8,,
(0.3 cn). Dnw hemline cotuer oi
'Noie:
lf trcNer hen is flared or is wid€r
thd hipline, do not moveOU?.
(7)Mde OIT 3/8 (1.0 co). The patrem
sh@ld be on the verricargmde line and
1/4" (0.6 cn) abov€the horizontalsyade
lin€. Draw the henline comer at the
(s1MoveDott4r' 1/8" (0.3cm).D6y tne
kneedea at the inseah,
(9)Move ,On4r' t8' (0.3 cn) and OU?
1/3 (0.3cn). Tle pattd. viu beback on
the ho zontat smde tine ed O{,7
1/8"(0.3.n) fron th. veltical $ade line
in order to d€creasethe crctct. Dnw ihe
crctch comer,taperins to norhingabouta
third of the distdce to rhe knep
Using the orieinal pattern, blend dre

Note: ll not OUI moveras nade on (6),

nove OL?1/2" (1.3cn)befoiedraw
ng inseamcd.e. at hemline.

'ts2
o:
 .TROUSERS

FRONT
Chart showing th. movesin the 1" (2,5 cm)syade, thestandard2 (5.0cm)sradeandthe4'
(10.0.n) gradeusedlor sportswea.soldin Sball, Mediud,krge andExtn I-arg€sizes.

o) UP DOWN 1/2 i1J cm)

\2) OUT IN 1/2 (1.3cm)
OUT IN 1/2 (1.3cm)
(4) DO\vN UP
(sl DOWN UP 1/8 (0.3cm)
(6) DOWN UP
IN OUT
\7J IN OUT
(8) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3cml

UP DOWN
IN OUT
?------r-'---

195
I

PatteF Pr€paratiotr:
Alr d@s de hade lron sq@€d ver-
bci dd horizont l Crade lmes. The grarn
ne mar be u4d as the lertic2l lrade Ine.
To nake dE norizonr.lsEde lne, souare
ircn the vertical sEde line to a ;oinr
apprdibarely 2" (5.0 cn) bet@ the ba.L
aotch ad then extend the line to the oDrer
hip. iJter the hori@ral eradelirc hasben
mde, nahe tvo ndks m rhe eds€sof the
pattm 1/8 ' (0.3 cn) abovetlrc line and ine
sme dishnce apa.t. Make the sane tvo
mdks bel@ the ho.tmtal ende tine. The
lwks shodd be on boltr eds6 oJ rhe pat

Refd io the instructiom tumished wirh Ilg

tneequipmenrhhowtomsrk lhepattemif
usingaEEdingruchrneora hing€dgddins

w"(0"
843.
 If a sEding @cnine d a ningedgading
der is neing u*il ii wil not be n4ssary to
Mke @y narks @ tle lapet on whicn tlle

ff gndina by band,hoth a yertical ed a

hdizontal gntie line wilLbe needed.Dla a
veitical line alproximtely 2" (5-0 cm)
l@gd than the pantsdtl a horizontalsmde
line approxinately 2" (5.0 .n) widtr drm
the pots at the ho!i@ al srade tre. On
ach $de ol the Etical srade lire at the top
and bottom, dd{ foli snrt vertic.l liG
t8 ' (0.3 cn) 6 ach siile ol tne ldtical line
dd th€ s@e distance apart, See Fis!re
823,
 PatternMovem€nr6 For

lf usinga gmdinsnachjneor a hinged

srading tulef, besin all noves tron o r
gradingby hand,natch the paitem to be
graded to the verti.al and ho.izonial srade
lines on the prepared paper. Fisr.e 83.3
shoNswherc tire partern is to be markedon
tlrepaperattereachmove.
{1)MoveaP l/.1" (0.6cn). DIM rhecente.
(21MoveOUT t/4 (0.6cn). Dnw the area
at themiddleorthewaistline. tiiherc isa
back da$ ar the naisttine,it shoutdbe
dawn conpleteat thispoint
{3)MoveOU? l/4" (06 cn). Diaw the side
seancorneut thewaistline.
(,1)Move,Ott N 1/4" (0.6cn). The paiteh
shouldbeon the horizontalgradeline and
172"(1.3cm)f.on theverticatsradeline.

Notq Il sradinsshortsthat end mor€

than half way above the crotch
tu knee length,a er .onrptern!
{ . 4 1m o i e/ N t o \ o t o l A r a d e
hne,
oraw rnsean comer at hen and
proce.dwth (9).
(5)Moye ,Oit']r' r/8 (0.3 cn). Dnw the (8)Move i,P 1/8 (0.3cn), Dnw the kne
thigh areato the knee.
Note U sradinsshorh that end more (9) Move aIP 1/8" (0.3 cn) and 1lr' 13, (0.3
than half way belo* rhe c.orchto ch), The pattem viu he back on the
knee lensth,alt€. .ompleti.g (5), honzoltal gradeline andIt t/8 , (0.3cn)
nove IN ro vertical srade line. rron the vertical grad€ti.e in o.der to €x-
draf rsean corner ar tem and tend the crotch. Draw the cfotch comer
p.oceedwth (9). taperins to nothins about a rhnd ot ih;
(6)Move,OtlN 1/8" (0.3cm)andIN 1/8,
(0.3 cn). Draw the henline corneroi Using the orisinalpartem,btend the
Note: II trouser hem is aared o. is
rviderrhanhipline,do.or nove/lt
(?)Move /N 3/8" (1.0 cn), The pattem
should be on &e rcrtical srade line and
t/4" (0.6cm)belorvthe horizontal qradc
tine.Draw rhe nenninecome.rt the ir

\ote, Ii no 1N nove was bade on (6),

move iN r/2 (r'3 cn) hefore
omwng mseancomerat hemtine.
 Moveoents For DecreasingSize:
rr usin€a EEdinghachjneoru hrrued
gYadrn8tu er, beginatt mov* troh O. lt
gdding by hand,matcli the partfi to be
cnded to the veniczland hodzontatsfade
un6on rheprepredpaper.
_ Ikrre 843 show5wh(e the Frtem is
ro Deru.i{ed m thepaperalrer eachnove
(1) Move totfN 1/4 (0.6 cm). Dlaw thp
centerlrcnt waist comer,
(2)Move/t1l4 (0.6cm).Drawth€a.ea
at
the middleof the Mis irc. rf rrousers
ae pteated,the lteats snoLndbe @ked

{3) M@€ ltr' U4" (0.6 cb). Das the side

seancoherat rhewaisdine.
(4)Move L.P t/4 10.6.n). Ihe @rtem
shouldbem thehorizonragmdetineand
t2_ll_3.mrirom ihevedicatsradene

Note E syading shorrs rhar end eore

than hau way ab@e tne crotch
to knee tengrh, after conDletins
(4), nove OUr to v*tkat
Fad;
lne ahd draw inse@ c@er ar
nee, Pr@.ed with (9).
(5) Move CF r/3 {0.3cml. DEw rhe gh
r}
(3)MoveDOI|N t/8 tO.3.ml.
Note If sradins shorh lhat end nore D.awthe
K n e e a r q a r t thnes e n
than hau aat, below tne crctch ro (9)Mo,ue
knee lsgt_\, aJrer.mptet ng {5), -DOWN 1ta l().3(mt and OLT
r. r!.r
mole uul ro le.tiral Sradetxie cm,.I h€paffem*IUbebackon
ue honzonrar AradehneandOtI l/8,,
and das rs4h cmer ar hen
Prfteed wiih (9). {u i !m) iom urevdriat sade tinein
(6)Move aP t/8' (0.3cm) and OL? 1/8,, orcerto decrease rhe(rotch DrawUe
(0.3 cd), DFw the h@line comer of .rcLch.omer, taperins rono rinsabouaa
rtro orbed6tan(etoihelnee
Notq lf tr@ser nen is fla.ed or is wider the drcinat p:rdn, bend rhe
hneljsinc
thar hiplhe do not hove OUI
(7) Move Ol4 3/8" (1,0 cnl. Th€ mttern
sh@rdbe on $e vert.al srad.I;e and
r/4 (0.6Ld)abovetbe horuonralfrde
line, Dns the heDline cohef at t;e in.

Notq r not OU? movewN &adeon (6).

mae our r12"o.3 cn) befora
drawngrsm com€rat hemline.
 TROUSERS

BACK
Chartshosins rhenrovesin ihe 1 ' (2.5cn)gmde,thestandard 2" (5.0cm)smdeandthe.4
ir0.0 cr)grade usedlor sportswcar
soidin Small,I'lediun
Largeand

o) DO!!N 1/2 (r.3Lm)

12) OUI ]N r/8 (0 3 !m) t/2 (1Jcm)
(3) OUI IN l/8 (0 I !m)

UP
(s) DOWN UP

DOWN
IN OUT
(7) IN OUI
(3) DOWN
(9) UP DOWN
IN OUT

ll l
 ---fo

---'.--"--+-'---

---------t------!---

'--------r--'---+
 KNI?TED BRIEFS OR BIKINI

Chdt shoyins the movesin tne 2" (5.0cn) gnde for knitted briels or bikinis. Th€ noye nunbe€
and ine dir€ctions ol the moves are the sane lor tbe back and the front, accordins to the

(r) Dra* cente. \$a$t corner

(2) ou1' IN

(3) IN OUT
UP
(5) IN OUT
Notes
Notes
 i
I

SECTIONIV
CHILDREN'SWEAR
 CHTLDIiEN'SWEAR

Clothingfor culdrenis divjd€dintosddal sizermges:

lders (BoysandGnb) - 1 ste only
Babie6(Boy6@d Girh) - 3 nonths - 6 nonlns
18 nondB - 24 nddB - 36 noths
Toddlds (Boysad Gnh) - 1 yed - 2 yffi -3

Chiltlier (Boysmd cnb) - Siz6 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 6X

Gnk-Sizs7'8'10-12-14
B o y s .S i z a? . 8 . 1 0. 1 2- 1 4 . 1 6 . 1 8
The "irs Id childrens .lolhDs s @aly indicativeof lhe as6. Beose cnnden oo n;.
Erowat the se ate in all t:@u@enls each,er, it is inportmt to snowrne diffdences
betwe@sias in @h sizelmse aethechegesarenotalwayscosistdt.
Gradecnartsee sivenfof thegading of basics@ents. Tne sradefor oth€rsryl6, suchas
pdnc6s lins d one'piecesuits,my easilybevorked out by usingthe slide lin* sh(m in the
charts,It h v€ryiopdtant thateachpattempie@bechded againsttbepiec€to whi.h ir wil be
sem, i,e,, sholld€t *aG, underm sds, sitie*am on skirts md pmts. mtt sleeveto @-
s.ye,in orderto in$re accuracyin thecompleted
latteh.

209
 BABIES

Bodice - Froni an.l Back

Cha'rsh.\Linathe tuNesfor gradinstronrsize3 monthsrhrough36nronths.

The tijresshoNnin
, cdarcn, Lcdrn!ynalterthe.orrcsDonding
movc.

3.6 6L2 12 13
(r) IJP DOl\N t/4' 1t4 1/8" 1/8',

UT DOWN v3 1/8 t/3' v3" 1/3"

ou'r' IN t/t6 ln6 t/16" t/16 1/t6',

oll f IN 1/16" 1/16" 1/16" t16"

DOWN 3/8', 3/8" 3/8 tl4"

(5) OUT IN y8' 1/3 1/8" t/8" 1/8"

DO\vN 3/8', 114" l/3 t3" v3"

l\ out 1/8', l/3- t/3 t8"

IN OUI l/3' t8" 1/8', 1/8" v8"

Ihp no\. o E r , do s ' ' e . - oi d o I Fba \1rpr F." r .

"
 'Ja
-f

-i--r-

o-l'\-
a
ooo

fl
--.[o
 Sleev€
The chari showsthe s&de tor the ircnt hali ol the sleeye.Atrei rhe lronr half oi the sleeveis
sraded,rep€atthe sanemovesfor thebackhatfof thesleeve,notinsrhedifterences in thedirec.
tionortheOUTandIN moves onth€hackandhont.
Shortsleeyesarenotsradedin underamtensrh.

3-6 6. t2 12,18 18.24 24-36

o) UI DO\!N 1/8" 1/8" ta" 1/8 \t8"

\2) OUT IN vl6" 1176" Ut6 v16" 16"

DOWN UP ln6 1/16" 1n6" l/16" vl6"

OUT LN 5n6" 5i6" 5/16" 5/16 5/16"

DOWN UI 1/16' tl16" 1/16' v16" 1n6"

(4) DOWN UP 2- 1/2" u2 1,12" 2"

(5) DOlVN UP U2 v2 !2" !2 It2"

IN OUT 1/8" 1/3 17a" 1/8" Lt3"

o
 Skirt

Ch.rt for skirtsendinssboeetheknee,

3-6 6- 12 12-74 ]a-24 24-36

(1) UP DOWN 3/8" 3/8" 3ta" 3/8" 3ta"

(2) OUT IN II4" 1,t4' 4"

(3) DOWN UP 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/a"

(4) DOWN UP 2" 5/8" !2" 5t8" 58'

(5) IN OUT ll4"

Themoves rhefi@land/o'r\ebackde Ihesrp.

Id Erad.ns

-r--'-i
\,__-)_-.

:li
o

o
 S a c q u e .S h o r t D . e s s -L o o g D . e 5 . o r c o s n

ahd- lo..h-cle"g-h., rrin mr.+ ! .d qL, to..d.cr.tro o,sd-..orTc\Eowl. ,e

' dlr" ile! frp oo, di p move.

36 612 12-18 18 24 24 36
UP DOWN Lt4 1l'! 1/4 1/8', 1/8',

\2) llowN 1ta v8 l/8 1/8 t/8

OUT IN vl6 1/16" 1/16" 1/16"

(3) OUT IN l/16 1/16" 6 v16', v16',

o!T IN 1/8" t/3" 1/8- l/3' l/8'

(s) OUT IN 712 !2 r/2" tl2" 112"

OL]T ]N 112" |2" 112 1t2

DO$'N t/8' 1/8', r/8" 1/8', 1/8"

(8) IN OUT 112- |2 3/8 ', ).t2" !2"

DOWN UI 1/8" l/8 l/3" t/8' 1/8

(s) ]N OUT !2 1t2 3/8" !12" Lt2"

UP t3" 1/8" t/3 1/3

(r0f DOtl'N 3/8" v4 1/8" l/3- t/8

(11)" DO\TN UP '7/4"

1', 7t8
B.;..1
 12 L8 24.36

1,t4" !4' !4"

. Forthesacquel€nsth:AJtercmpletins (l0)! proceedto (13)

*For thesnortdr6s lensthrAfter completins(11),p.ff*d to (13).

=,!-11I I
o
o

s::
o o
 The r o\ 6 ror EEding ttp ront ndor I nebacl de rhe3m._

-* --l:-=

1
Notes
 Pants

Cha.t shoys noves lor sadins pants that end around tne anlLe. Bv srudvins the chart and
gradingdiagEn ine grad€lor otherlengthsday be easilvdeiPrmined

6. t2 12 t3 18 24 24-36
(r) UP DOWN 3/8" 3]a" 3/3" 3/8" 3/8"

\2) OUT 1N 1/8" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8

(J) OUI IN 1/8 v3_ t/3" l/3- 1/8"

DOWN UP 3/8" 318 3/8" 3/8"

(5) DOWN UP r/2 5/8" !2" 5/8 573"

(6) DOWN UP 5/8" 718" 1_ 7/8 7/8

a) 1N OUT y4 !4 1/4" tl4" L14"

(3) DOWN 5/8" '714 1_ 7t8" 7lA

UP DOWN 2 5/8" L12" 5/8" 5/8"

IN OUT 1/8" 1/8 1/8" 1/8" v8'

Th"r 'of""Ior!rdin8 lpr'or'.ndo. hp dcl,ar" hevm"

-1

o
 TODDLERS
Bodice - Frcnt ard B.ck
Cbansnowing6e hoy€slor $adins lrcn size1 tnrowh size4. TbelinesshM in r€dareto be
drawnaJtertbec@espondinghove,

r'2 2-3 3-4

(r) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3cnl
(?) UP DOWN 1/8 (0.3 cft)
OUT IN rn6" (0.2cn)
(3) OUI IN
(4) DOWN UP
(51 OUT IN 1/8 (0.3(m)
(6) DOWN UP
IN OUT
(7) IN OUT 1/16'(0.2.m)
(8) IN OUT

Thero\esforEEdingrhcionrr'n o, r E ba,I ue rhe\me

 i-'
-l--- .t--

il

-o
I'
o
Bek
I -.-----
.6lll+

ol
ct+
)o
1
 Sl€eve

ChartshoNils the sradelor the iiont half oi tne skeve.After th€ iront hall ol the sleeveis
g$ded, repeatthe sanr noves for the back hali of the sleeve,noting the differencesin the direc
rior olrheOUT andIN novesonLhebackandfronr.
Shortsleelesare nol sradedin underam lensth,

t.2 23 34 (:)

DO\! N

t2) OUT IN
DOWN
(3) OUT IN 1/8 (0.3cm)
DOWN
DOWN a/8 (l 6 crn)
(s) DO\{N
IN OUT

222
 skirt

Chanfor skirlsendinsahovetneknee.

t-2 2-3 3.4

(1) UP DOWN l / 2 ( 1 . 3( m ) 1/2 (1.3cn)
t2) OUT IN 1/8 (0.3d)
(3) DOWN llP v2" (1.3cn)
DONN UP 3 / 4 ( 1 9c m )

6) IN OUT 1/8 (0.3m) 1 / 8' ( 0 . 3c m ) 1/8 (0.3cm)

Tirpmovps-orsrad
ng @ hortdd/or he t€caarer\p!an(,

il
--l---l--
Chart showsnov6 lor sladins pantsthat end dmnd the anl<l€.By studyinsde .naft and
Eradinsdia8ran,thesradelor otherlerythsnay be€asilydetermined.

l-2 2-3 3.4

(1) UP DOWN 1/2 (1.3.m1 1/2 (1.3cm)

\2) OUT 1N 1 / 1 6' ( 0 . 2! m ) 1 / 1 6' ( 0 . 2. m ) 1/16'(0.2.h)

(3) OUT IN 1/16 (0.2ch)
(4) DO!!ll 1/2"(1.3cm) 1/2 (1.3d)

(s) DOWN UP 3/4 (1.9cm)

(6) DOWN UP i (2.5cm) l (2s cm) 1 (25cm)

l?) IN OUT 1/8 (0.3.m) l/8" (0.3cm)

(3) DOWN l (2.5cm) r'(2.5m)
(9) UP DOWN 3/4 (1.9cn)
IN OUT

The novs ior stadms thp tront drvo! rhe baci de rn€samc.
 'l -)----

li
ti
I

'ta-'-

\:il Ir
il
r'i.-l
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--1

-i;o
Notes
Notes
 CIIILDRDN
Bodice - Ftont and Back
+ow nsr,e rova iorsndinel{T
Shan "izeI lhrousfsip 6X.I te Lne.dnm tr redee to

23 3-4 4-5 5-6 6-6X

o) UP DOWN !4" 1/8" 1/8 1/8" v8"

12) UP DOWN Lt8" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8"

OUT ]N 1/16" !16" 1/16" !16 1/16-

(3) OU'T IN 1/16" ll76" 1/16" v16" 1/16"

DOWN UP y4 \14 1/4 1t4 t/8"

(5) OUT IN l/3" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8" 1/8"

(6) DOWN UP 3/E', 3/6', 3/8" 3/8" 3/16"

IN OUT 1/8" 1/8" lt8" t/8 1/8"

t:?) IN OUT 1/16" l/16" 1/16" l^6" l^6"

(3) IN OIJT 1716" tl6" vl6" Lt1,6" l/16"

Thc rore. fo-s-oinc | 'e ro dd.o' I p ba.k de.he ene

224
 +o-

L
I t!) /
z-T\
@i' l

o /o
I
I
.t- -{

384
Ch,d rorsyad'nsskrrrs
rhatendabove
thek.ee.

2.3 3.4 4-5 5,6 6-6X

{r) UP DOWN |2" L12" 3t8" v8" 3/8"

12) OUI IN v8" l/8' 1/8" l/3" 1/8

(31 UP 112" v2 3t8" 3/8 3/8"

DOWN 3t4" 314" 3/4" 5/8', 5/8"

(r) IN OUT ua" t8" t/8" 1/8" ,8"

T h c r o v e ! I o r ca d i n c ' h .l o n r " n d o JI e b a . i . , e r h c s a n e
 purs

Chaf snoving the nores lor srading pantsthat end a&und the ankle. By studyins the chrt and
gradingdiagran, the gradelor otherlensthsnay be easilydetemned.

2.3 3.4 45 56 6-6X

o) UP DOWN t12 U2 3ta' 3/4" 3/8

OUT IN 1/16" ln6" !t6" 1/76" 1/]6'

(3) OUT IN l/16" u16 1/1€" 1/16" 1/16"

DOl'N UP |2" t12" 3/3" 3/8" 318

(5) DOlVN 314" 3/4" 5/8 5t8

DOWN UP l" 1_ !2

\7) TN OUT v8" t8' l/8 1/3" 7t8

UP DO\{1r,1 l,' l" 112

(91 DOWN 3/4" 3/4" 5/8" 5/3"

IN OUT L^6" v16" vl6" t/16" !16"

Tl.no\. l o r s Yd ' r d b 1( o r i . h d c a r e

L
 --t

--1:
l
o
 ---t-----

----1--
Notes
 Girls
Bodice - Front and Back
Cha.tshowingttrenores lor syadinssize7 tnrcushsize1,!.Ci.l,ssizesareonensoldin Slin and
Chlbby sizes6 \€ll s reslkr. The gradeproceduresare the samefo. Stin, Resxlarand
Chubbysizennses brt thegradersholld not try ro mke a Sljmor Cnubbysia jrcm ; Regllar
sizeasrle proportions
de notthosaneandanoiisiml lattem andsmpte is nece$aryfor e;ch.

7.8 810 t0 t2 12.L4

DOWN t/8 !8" 1/8" |4

(2) DOWN 1/8 1/3" 1/8 1/8',

OIJT IN v16" l/3" t/8 1/8"

() OUI IN 1/16" |8" 1/8" l/3"

DO\{N UP v4 1/4" tl4"

(s) OUI IN t8' t/3" 1/8', v8

DO\{N UF 3/3" 3/4" 3/3" !2

o) IN OUT 1/76" a" 1/8', t/a"

(3) IN OUT 1/16 ', 1/8" l/8 718

T , e n , o - " . r o ' s r a d a . h " r , o , , . 1 0 o , h " o a .| I p !n!

".c

2t3
-- - --1---

^t
o
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I
I
The cnalt sho$ the snde for the llont hatfoi the st€eve,After the lrmt batfot th€ sleevei6
srad€d,lepeattnesanen@4 for thebackhauol rheslftE notinsthediferencesin thedirec.
tionof theOUTdd IN mov€sonrhebackad tront,
Snortsleevesarenot gndedin udd@ lensth.

7.8 8. 10 10-1? t2-14

(r) UP DOWN 1/8" a" 1/8" l/8"

\2) OUT IN 1/8" ta" a" 1/3"

DOWN UP 1/16" u16" 1/16- 16

(3) OUT IN lt8" !8' 11a" 3i6"

DOWN UP !t6" I]16" 1,116" 1/16"

(4) DOWN 3/8" 3ta" tE"

(5) DOWN UP 3/8" 3t8" 3t8" 3/8"

IN OUT ua 1/8" 1,18" t8"

 +o r

'l/
Chartlor Fadrnsrkrts tharendabdethekoee,

7.8 810 l0 12 12-14

(1) UP DOWN 3/8" 318" 3/8" 3/8',

l2) OUT IN 1/8" L14"

t3) DONN 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8"

OUT IN 1/8" 1/8 !4 1/1"

DOWN UP 5/8" 5/8' 5/8" 5/3"

(5) IN OUT 4 3/3" tl2" t12"

T X . n o v " ! r o ' c r a d ' .E l t p , o 1 , o. rnebd.\dr", Riane

"1d
 ----i-- l---' -i-----i

ttr=- o

o
Chanshlrvincdrenrovcsfr gradiir!pantsnra.crd a..rod nreaDUeBysLudi.stiechada.d
gradingdiasraD.t|e grad.ntr.t1re.lengthsnry bccasilydcrcmined.

73 t0 1z 12 1t
DOl\ \ 3/lt' 3/3',

olT IN ]t16 r/8' 1/3'

(r) OIT ]N 1/16 1/8 1/3

3/8', 3/3'

OLIT IN v3_ l/4_ 114'

5/3' 5/3

t:P 5/8' 5/ri'

IN t/8' t/3'

(7) IN ou1'

TIF 5/3_

UP 5/3', 5/3',

IN r/8

1". ? s. iLrF r o.'Fb .,c.e\dn!

lI

o -
Notes
 Shi.t . F.or t and Ractr

C h " n \ h o w h g r h , _ s r " db" r b o y . . h t r , . . v p f i , h , o u l t - 1 3 .a o v .

s v c \ a . r . t . n r o t , il n c t , n . n d
rl,
;ii':i!:*;"ti,;,f*:.j.:l."i;i._'JT".;,i;
rp gnprd in

:i,:.;,.:lj;;:,,i1.,. ""
f, rt,l,l lul{:.:;ljt
:T,
u m i t p d r p ' nJ d v r p h . r ( ! . . d r y t o - ! . r h I , . t ,
ir,,d. rcro
r'3 ro\"5 wl, r^rh.,edrpd.rh. -*,r ; ;".,:;.,;":;
"
:ho;,

t:
(l) UP
63 al0 10.12
v4
l?.14 r , r .t 6
tl4'
lri. 18

/i
t2l

OUT IN
v8

v3
v3"

,8,
l/8"

t/8
l/3' 1/8'

v8 I/3
l'
(3)

(5)
OUT

OUT
IN

IN
l/8

314"

1t8
va-

318

1t8
v3"

3/8'

u3
t/8

3r3'

1/8
,3"

3/8'

L/8
|8

L3"
I
l
3/a 3/a 3/8" 3/8 3/3" 3/8

(71 3/3' 318" 3/8' 3r8" 318

l
(3) IN out 3/8 3t8 3ta U2 3/3 3/8'

'Ihc
nru'cstorsr; I n! rhef,,Dr I vt/orrheharka ! rheianre
 t

------j-"--

.o+
-o
 c]1art snoNing the noves lor tne ftont hall of the sleeve.AfLe. the Lont half of the sleevehas
beengiaded, repeatthe samenoses fo. the back hall of the sleere,notins the dilferencesin the
diections ol the OUT andrN noves on the backandf.ont,
Shortsleevesare generallydot giaded in undenrn lensth.

B.t*q I
8.10 r0 t2 12 L4 14 16 16-18
I
o) UP DOWN l/3" 8 1/8" 1/8" ,a *l
io.r..rI
{21 OI]T IN 1n6" v16- 1/16" 1/16', 1/16" lA6"

DOl{f{ UP t16 ', 1/16" 16 vl6" 1^6"

ou1' IN 1t4 tl4^ 1/4' 3/8 !4

DOWN UP 1/]6" 1n6', r/16" 1/16" 1/16', 1/16"

Tt8" 7ta ?18 7t2 5/8', tl2"

(s) DOWN UP 7t8 7/8" 718" 3/8" 5/3" t12"

IN OUT ll8, 1/8" v3" va" 1/8', 1/8"

250
 .>=_
i

-I
Ii
i--\

\- li-/

.F- _!.
 pants

Chartshorvingthe noves ior g.ading lants that enda.oundrhe ankte By studyins the cna and
gradingdiagran,thcgradelor otherlengthsnay beeasilydetermined

6-8 3. 10 10-t2 12 t,! 14.16 16 18

o) DOWN !2" r/2 u2 r12 t12" 1/2

12) OUT IN 1/8 t/a v3" 1/8 t3" 1/8"

(3) OUT IN 1/8" 1/8 1/3" 1/8 v3 v8"

DOWN 1/2 u2 U2 !2" r/2 1t2

OUT IN t8" 1/8 u4" 1t4 v4

6) UP 1 1/8" t 1/3" M ''

5/4" 5/3 1t4

(61 DOWN U P r.tl4" | 114" L 1l4" 314" 314" 3/8"

IN ou't v8" tl8 1/8 l/3" 1/8 1/3"

(i) IN OUT 3/8" 3/3" 3t8" 3/3"

(3) DOWN 1-I/4 1-1/4" 3/4 3/,1" 3/3"

(9) 1.1/8" 1-V8" 1.V8" 5/3 5/8"

IN OUT t/3" v8' ua" t/3" 1/8" I

T h em o \ c rt o r B d d i n s r h e i r uannr d / o r b a c k at hr ee s a m e .
 o

!
I

l, i
Notes