SkiDoo 850 Turbocharger Installation Instructions

Read and Understand these Instructions Thoroughly BEFORE beginning Installation.

• Bolt & Screw Sizes called out are the thread size, not the torx, wrench or socket size; unless
otherwise noted.
• Left Hand (LH) and Right Hand (RH) references always assume you are sitting on the vehi-
cle.
• Installation requires an OE Service Manual for your vehicle.
• Sub-kit part numbers are frequently call out (example HSK-1351). This will help you locate
the required part in the MPI kit packaging.
Step 1
• Open hood storage compartment
and remove the two T25 headed
screws. Once both screws are re-
moved lift out storage box.

Step 2
• Remove gage cluster by lightly pry-
ing up the rear edge of the gage pod
by the steering column. The gage
pod is held in place by two rubber
grommets. Once the gage is loose,
remove the wire gang plug from the
back side of the gage.

Step 3
• Remove two T25 headed screws
found on either side of the steering
column underneath where the gage
pod was located
Step 4
• Unplug the two headlight plugs from
each headlight and also unplug the
connector going to the
Pressure/Temperature sensor.

Step 5
• On each side of the hood, remove a
T25 headed screw. There is one on
each side (2 total).

Step 6
• Disconnect the hood intake from the
airbox. This is done by loosening the
clamp and disconnecting the rubber
connector. This is found underneath
the hood on the clutch side, just
above the secondary clutch.
Step 7
• Now slide the hood forward, free the
rear of the hood from where it at-
taches to the body panel on opposite
sides of the fuel tank. Lift the hood
off the vehicle.

Step 8
• Remove the plastic dart securing the
insulation above the secondary
clutch; then remove the insulation.

Step 9
• On the exhaust side on the vehicle,
remove the 8mm headed bolt con-
necting the insulation to the coolant
bottle; remove the insulation.
Step 10
• Remove the two clips that hold the
insulation shells on to the inlet of the
muffler. Then remove the aluminum
cover/insulation from the muffler
inlet.

Step 11
• Using a spring puller, remove both
springs that attach the muffler to the
exhaust pipe.

Step 12
• On the motor side (or inside) of the
muffler you will find the muffler tem-
perature sensor. With a flat head
screw driver, bend back the locking
tab, then remove the sensor with a
17mm open end wrench.
Step 13
• With a 10mm socket on a long ex-
tension remove the bolt and spring
that hold the muffler in place. Now
you can lift the muffler out of the ve-
hicle.

Step 14
• You must remove the secondary
clutch and jack shaft to easily re-
move and install intake parts for the
turbo kit.
• First, remove the jack shaft rubber
breather cap on the upper end of the
chaincase.

Step 15
• There are 3 ear clamps on the side
of the coolant bottle. Remove the 2
lower clamps.
• CAREFUL TO NOT DAMAGE THE
PLASTIC COOLANT TANK.
• Do not twist off. They are very diffi-
cult to cut with wire cutters. If you
use a cut-off wheel, use care to not
slip and cut tank!
• Remove both lower hoses from the
coolant tank.
Step 16
• Drain coolant. We recommend you
use a Mityvac Fluid Evacuator
(model 7400 is hand pump and 7300
is pneumatic.

Step 17
• Now remove the 5/8 bypass hose
from the thermostat housing.

Step 18
• Once more drain coolant well below
the thermostat.
Step 19
• If you do NOT have an electric start
model, Remove 1 T25 head screw
from the pull starter handle guard.
• Set aside. DO NOT remove the han-
dle, just more it out of the way as
shown below

Step 20
• Remove the rubber chaincase
breather cap as shown. You may
leave the hose attached.

Step 21
• Remove the jackshaft bolt that re-
tains the upper gear / sprocket onto
the jackshaft.
Step 22
• Now install the inlcuded MPI “Sec-
ondary clutch / jaclkshaft removal
tool”.
• There may be yellow loctite from the
factory still inside the jackshaft
threads.
• Insure the tool is threaded all the
way in. It down not need to be more
than hand tight.

Step 23
• This shows the tool installed flush
with the end of the jackshaft.

Step 24
• Use the OEM tool to open the sec-
onardy and remove the belt.
Step 25
• Now remove the single locnut that
secures the secondary bearing
clamp.
• Remove the nut and then the clamp.

Step 26
• Pull the secondary out 3 to 4 inches.
• If someone pushes on the OEM cast
bearing seat the shaft will come out
easier (eliminates flexing and binding
on the bearing).
• One the shaft / clutch is pulled out 3
to 4 inches....
• Unscrew the jackshaft the the MPI
tool.
• LEAVE THE MPI TOOL IN PLACE. If
this tool is not maintained in place,
you will have to take apart the chain-
case to re-install the secondary.

Step 27
• Shows tool in “Waiting position”
Step 28
• Also shows the tool in the “Waiting
position from the backside of the
chaincase.

Step 29
• Remove 2 M6 bolts and nuts the se-
cure the 10mm silver aluminum
round support rod (bolt top and the
other bottom).
• Remove the rod.

Step 30
• Fully loosen the OEM clamps that
hold the OEM airbox onto the throttle
bodies.
Step 31
• Cut the zip tie on the MAG side of
the OEM airbox the secures the Blue
Loom cover fuel hose to the airbox

Step 32
• Once the OEM airbox has been re-
moved, Remove the large rubber
end seal and clamp and save for
later (it will be installed onto the hood
with a plug later on.

Step 33
• Cut zip ties that secure the OEM fuel
injector wire harness to the Fuel Rail.
Step 34
• Unplug the 2 OEM injectors.

Step 35
• Fully loosen the OEM clamps that
hold the throttle bodies to the OEM
rubber manifolds.

Step 36
• Remove M5 bolt on the MAG end of
the fuel rail.
• Remove the fuel line from the fuel
rail.
Step 37
• Unplug the OEM TPS connector
from the throttle bodies.

Step 38
• Remove the 2 coolant lines (1 on
each end of the throttle bodies).

Step 39
• Using a M8 socket / extension re-
move the 12 M5 bolts that secure the
OEM rubber manifolds to the cylin-
der.
• 2 of the bolts will have hose clamps
on them. NOTE: These hose clamps
are NOT reused.
• When you remove the manifolds,
you will also remove the read cages.
• CAREFUL to not drop or otherwise
damage the cages.
• FYI: SkiDoo cylinders are not factory
tapped. So the bolts will be some-
what more difficult to remove.
Step 40
• Shows manifolds removed.
• Protect the cylinder openings from
debris and mis parts untill you install
the new MPI billet manifolds

Step 41
• Remove OEM Throttle Body heater
hose from head.

Step 42
• Install Supplied 1/4 30R7 Hose to
the head using 13.3mm ear clamp.
• Route hose down and under the Mag
side intake port.
• Route hose up backside of chain
case using OE guides in chain case.
• Will connect to outboard side of
turbo later.
Step 43
• Prepare the Blow-off valve manifold
using the supplied 24in long piece of
5/32 rubber hose.
• cut two 3in pieces of hose from the
24in length.
• Attach the 2 pieces as shown using
the supplied Tee.
• Zip-tie all 3 connections.

Step 44
• Note the orientation of the manifolds.
• The is a mag side manifold and a dif-
ferent PTO side manifold.
• Use the brass elbows to popperly
orient the manifolds.
• An addition note on orientation. The
threaded holes on the manifold faces
are towards the outsides; away from
each other.
• Connect the 5/32 BOV hose mani-
fold you just built onto the bottom
ports of the manifolds.
• Zip tie 2 connections.
• This will connect to the BOV later.
Step 45

THIS STEP NOT REQUIRED ON SEA
LEVEL KITS

• Prepare the MAP sensor manifold

using the supplied 42in long piece of
5/32 rubber hose.
• cut two 3in pieces of hose from the
42in length.
• Attach the 2 pieces as shown using
the supplied Tee.
• Zip-tie all 3 connections.
Step 46

THIS STEP NOT REQUIRED ON SEA
LEVEL KITS

• Connect the 5/32 BOV hose mani-

fold you just built onto the top ports
of the manifolds.
• Zip tie 2 connections.
• This will connect to the MAP Sensor
later.

Step 47
• Remove the reed cages from the
OEM manifolds and install into the
new billet manifolds as shown.
• There are no Upper Manifold nipples
or upper hoses on Sea-Level Kits.

Step 48
• Install the supplied manifold gaskets
over the reed cages as shown.
• There are no Upper Manifold nipples
or upper hoses on Sea-Level Kits.
Step 49
• Set the manifold assembly (2 mani-
folds and the hoses) into place on
the motor.
• Install the 12 OEM bolts that secure
the manifolds.
• DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS.
The bolts should be snugged up,
then backed off 1/2 a turn so that the
manifolds can move for final align-
ment.

Step 50
• Temporarily push the throttle bodies
into the manifolds.
• With the throttle bodies push all the
way in, SNUG UP 2 or 3 bolts per
manifold. Both manifolds.
• Remove the throttle bodies and rein-
stall to insure proper fine alignment
of the new manifolds.

Step 51
• Remove throttle bodies and tighten
all 12 OEM bolts.
• 1 final test fit of the throttle bodies to
insure a good fit.
• If the bodies dont fit easily, repeat
the alignment process and recheck.
• NOTE: The 2 bolt that originally had
hose clamps on them will be a bit
harder to turn for the last 2 or 3 rota-
tions, since the cylinders are self-
threading. This is NORMAL and OK!
Step 52
• Release the blue safety clamp on the
fuel line connector on to of the ECU.

Step 53
• Pinch the white part of the fuel fitting
and remove it from the top of the
ECU.

Step 54
• Pull the fuel line down from behind
the support bar.
• Remove the blue corrugated loom;
you can leave the top of the loom at-
tached to the end where the loom is
taped.
Step 55
• Prepare the new 5/16 30R3 fuel
manifold.
• Cut a 2in piece of hose
• Cut a 12in piece of hose
• Cut a 15in piece of hose

Step 56
• Build the center section with 2 5/16
supplied Tees, the 2in piece of hose
and two 14.5mm ear clamps.
• Dont forget to slide clamps into place
1st. it is almost impossible to remove
hose from tee once it has been
pushed on.
• Break cleaner sprayed on the tee
and inside the hose makes installa-
tion much easier.
• NOTE Clocking / orientation of the
Tees. They are twisted about 30 de-
grees.
• The top of the picture will be the top
Step 57
• Connect the 12in piece of hose to
the top tee (top tee in prior picture).
• Connect the 15in piece of hose to
the lower tee (bottom tee in prior pic-
ture).
• Secure with 2 14.5mm ear clamps.
Step 58
• Mark a 2.5in section of OEM hose di-
rectly in the middle of the OEM fuel
hose.
• Cut out the marked 2.5in section you
just marked.

Step 59
• Dont forget to slide clamps into place
1st. it is almost impossible to remove
hose from tee once it has been
pushed on. You will use a 15.7mm
ear clamp.
• Connect the top piece of the OEM
hose (the end with the OEM 90deg
fuel fitting attached) to the top tee of
the manifold you just built. The 12in
leg of the manifold you just built will
be closest to the OEM hose end you
are attaching.
• Note clocking / orientation

Step 60
• Dont forget to slide clamps into place
1st. it is almost impossible to remove
hose from tee once it has been
pushed on. You will use a 15.7mm
ear clamp.
• Connect the manifold from the prior
step to the lower piece of the OEM
hose (the end going to the OEM Di-
rect Injectors. The 15in leg of the
manifold will be closest to the OEM
hose end you are attaching.
• NOTE: The upper 12in hose goes
behind the aluminum support rod &
the 15in lower hose in front. See PIC
Step 61
• Dont forget to slide clamps into place
1st. it is almost impossible to remove
hose from tee once it has been
pushed on. You will use a 14.5mm
ear clamp.
• Connect the lower 15in leg to the
PTO side manifold / injector.
• Connect the upper 12in leg to the
MAG side manifold / injector.

Step 62
• Reinstall the OEM fuel line to the
throttle bodies using OEM bolt.

Step 63
• Prep the Throttle Body retainer bolts
with blue Loctite.
• The retainers have a notch. The
notch faces the rear of the Vehicle.
Step 64
• Reinstall the Throttle Body into the
new manifolds using supplied Billet
“Half Moon” retailers & M5 bolts
(WITH LOCTITE).
• Verfiy that the clamps have only a
small gap between the back of the
clamp the the manifold face.

Step 65
• The MAG side retainer is much eas-
ier to install if you have removed the
plastic pull starter handle guard. (1
T25 headed bolt).

Step 66
• Install the GEMS fuel controller’s In-
jector harness onto the new injectors
in the Billet Manifolds.
• The Wiring SHOULD NOT BE RE-
VERSED. The vehicle will NOT run
correctly.
• The Injector Plug with the White/Yel-
low wire connects to the Clutch side
injector.
• The Injector Plug with the Green wire
connects to the Mag side injector.
• Route the wires hehind the Fuel Rail
as shown.
Step 67
• Connect the GEMS fuel Controller’s
TPS harness as shown.
• The TPS harness will route along the
same path as the Mag side injector
wire.
• The OEM TPS plug Connects to the
GEMS harness
• The TPS Harness Connects to the
Throttle Body.
• NOTE: Early Mountain Models do
NOT have this harness.

Step 68
• GEMS TPS Wiring

Step 69
• Secure the GEMS Injector wires, the
GEMS TPS harness and the OEM
injector wires to the fuel rail with Zip-
ties as shown.
• Reconnect OEM secondary injectors
as shown.
Step 70
• ZipTie the OEM Injector harness and
the GEMS Injector wires and the
GEMS TPS wires behine the fuel rail
as shown.
• It is also a good idea to secure the
Clutch side New fuel line to the OEM
fuel rail.

Step 71
• Install the Silicone boots onto the
Throttle Body as shown.
• Insure the silicone is pushed tight
against the back of the Throttle
Body.
• Install a clamp on each silicone boot
as shown.
• Tighten clamps. Insure the clamps
are COMPLETELY over the Throttle
Body and flush with the rear of the
Body Nipples.
• Insure that the Silicone does not pull
off the Throttle Body as you tighten
the clamp.
Step 72
• Pre-install the 2 new Billet Ball studs
into the OEM rubber suckets in the
Tunnel.
Step 73
• Pre-position an additional clamp over
each silicone boot as shown.

Step 74
• Apply a PTFE based (teflon) pipe
sealant to the brass pipe threads.
• Install the Larger 1/4” straight hose
barb into the MAG side of the Airbox.
• Install the Smaller 3/16” straight barb
into the Clutch side of the Airbox.
• The MAG side will connect to the
Boost Control Solenoid later on.
• The Clutch side nipple will connect to
the MAP sensor on Sea-Level kits
only.
• The Smaller Clutch side fitting can
also be used as a boost gauge
source
Step 75
• Start to fit the Air Box into place.
• Start with the MAG side Airbox Nip-
ple first.
• The rear support of the back of the
Air Box will be Above the Billet Ball
Studs at this time. Do not try to in-
stall Nipples with the Ball Studs in
the AirBox slots.
• Next push the Clutch side Airbox nip-
ple into the silicone hose.
Step 76
• With the Airbox seated into the sili-
cone nipples, fit the 2 ball studs
through the rear Airbox support plate
as shown.
• Push the Airbox as far forward as
possible.
• Insure the silicone hoses are flush
against the face of the Airbox (see
next picture).
• Now tip the Ball studs as far rear-
ward as possible.
• Install and tighten M8 nuts to secure
Ball Studs to Airbox support plate.

Step 77
• With both rear Airbox Clamps still
loose position as shown.
• Insure the silicone hoses are flush
against the face of the Airbox.

Step 78
• Slide clamps as far back as possible
and position as shown.
• Tighten clamps. Insure the clamps
are COMPLETELY over the Airbox
Nipples.
• Insure that the Silicone does not pull
off the Airbox as you tighten the
clamps.
Step 79.1
• Apply a PTFE based (teflon) pipe
sealant to the threads.
• WIPE OFF ANY EXCESS. LESS IS
MORE!
• DO NOT LET ANY SEALANT GET
INTO THE SOLENOID. It will dam-
age the solenoid.
• Teflon tape is discouraged because it
is easy to get tape threads into the
solenoid.

Step 79.2
• Prepare the boost solenoid.
• BE VERY CAREFUL to follow in-
structions. THIS WILL NOT OPER-
ATE PROPERLY IF PORTS ARE
REVERSED.
• MOTOR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR
• Port 1 Filter / Muffler
• Port 2 90deg 1/8in NPT by 1/4in
hose elbow. THIS WILL CONNECT
TO THE WASTE GATE ACTUATOR.
• Port 3 (middle port) straight 1/8in
NPT by 1/4in hose nipple. THIS
WILL CONNECT TO THE MAG
SIDE OF THE AIRBOX.
Step 79.3
• Mount solenoid to Billet solenoid
mounting bracket using two 6-32
screws.
Step 79.4
• Shows Solenoid mounted with two 6-
32 screws.

Step 80
• Re-install the PTO side round alu-
minum support bar as shown. Re-se-
cure with the OEM hardware.

Step 81
• Connect an 11in long piece of 1/4in
rubber vacuum line (larger than the
manifold lines) to the MAG side nip-
ple on the Airbox as shown.
• Zip tie in place with the larger 11in
ties included.
Step 81.1
• Mount Solenoid Bracket to PTO side
round support bar using two 3/8in
cable clamps and two M6x12 bolts
as shown.

Step 81.2
• Connect the 1/4in hose from the
MAG side of the Airbox to the MID-
DLE PORT (port 3) of the solenoid.
• Secure with 11in zip tie.

Step 81.3
• Connect a second piece of 1/4in rub-
ber line 18in long to the elbox port on
the solenoid (PORT 2).
• Secure with 11in zip tie.
• This will connect to the waste gate in
a later step.
• Route both the solenoid wire and the
18in long rubber hose over and be-
hind the MAG side round support bar
as shown.
Step 82
• Route the 1/4in line up and behind
the round aluminum support bar as
shown.
• Route the solenoid wire along the
same path.

Step 83
• Zip tie the PTO side new fuel line to
the OEM fuel rail.
• Look through the Jackshaft bearing
hole to insure that no wires or hoses
will be near the Jackshaft.
• Secure any suspect hoses and/or
wires.

Step 84
• Re-install the secondary clutch.
• Thread the jackshaft onto the MPI
clutch install tool that you left in the
chain case earlier.
• Be careful to not push the tool out as
you thread the shaft onto the tool.
• Push the shaft into the chaincase.
• It will help if someone helps by push-
ing in on the upper chaincase gear
as you push on the shaft.
• Spin the shaft until it splines into the
gear.
• Insure the shaft is fully seated and
reinstall the bearing clamp and nut.
Step 85
• Re-install the upper chaincase re-
taining bolt and tighten to OEM spec.
• Re-install the rubber vent cap.

Step 86
• Re-install the OEM recoil handle /
cover

Step 87
• Slide the protective loom around the
hose corver as shown.
Step 88
• Mark and cut the front corner of the
engine top thermal cover as shown.
• A sharp razor knife works best.

Step 89
• Showing cover after trimming.

Step 90
• Cut the 2 OEM zip ties that secure
the main wiring harness to the bot-
tom of the starting capacitor.
• Replace the zip tie with 2 new 11in
zip ties provided.
• DO NOT PULL THE ZIP TIES
TIGHT.
• We need about a 1/2in of space as
shown.
• The harness should hang down 1/2
to 1in below the mount.
Step 91
• Install the new water bypass hose
using two 25.6mm ear clamps.
• The hose will seem long, BUT DO
NOT TRIM IT. It is by design.

Step 92
• Cut the tap the secures the muffler
temp sensor plug to the harness.
• Careful to not cut or knick the wires.

Step 93
• Remove about 6in of the OEM corru-
gated loom.
• Separate the 2 wires that connect
the muffler temp sensor.
• Again, back about 6in.
Step 94
• Reinstall the factory loom over the
OEM wire for the Expansion Cham-
ber sensor.
• Use a little electrical tape to hold the
loom at the end.
• Install about 6in of new loom over
the 2 muffler sensor wires; again a
little electrical tape on the ends.

Step 95
• Remove the 3 rubber grommets from
the OEM muffler. USE CARE TO
NOT TEAR THEM!
• Reinstall the 2 smaller one into the
bottom of the turbo assembly.
• Reinstall the larger 1 in the top.
• Reinstall the steel collar in the top
grommet (larger end on the bottom).
• Set the OEM spring and long bolt in
place as well.

• Install a 10in long 1/4” 30R7 hose to

the inboard side water port on the
turbo. Secure with worm clamp.
Step 96
• Set the bottom of the turbo assembly
on the 2 lower mounting pins.
• Before you tip the top of the turbo
assembly in, reach behind the turbo
and HOLD UP THE UPPER COL-
LAR AND BOLT so that they do not
get caught on the upper frame
mounting ear.
• Push the turbo back. Again use care
to not tear the rubber grommet.
Step 97
• Move the turbo assembly around
until the top OEM mounting bolt fall
into place (there is a recess in the
OEM mounting ear).
• Once the bolt has dropped the turbo
assembly is secure.

Step 98
• Route the inboard turbo water hose
behind the larger bypass hose as
shown.
• Connect the turbo water hose to the
coolant reservoir using a 13.3mm
ear clamp.

Step 99
• Tighten the Spring / bolt that holds
the turbo assembly in place.
Step 100
• Connect the long 34in 30R7 water
hose that comes from the rear of the
head to the outboard side of the
turbo as shown.
• Secure with a worm clamp.
• Verify clear hose routing. The hose
should wrap under and in front of the
aluminum compressor cover.
(NOT UNDER THE CAST IRON
TURBINE HOUSING).

Step 101
• Install the OEM muffler sensor into
the new turbo exhaust pipe.
• Re-connect to the harness that you
extended / separated earlier.
• Secure the connector to the turbo
mount with a zip tie as shown.

Step 102
• Connect the rubber 1/4 line coming
from the boost solenoid to the turbos
waste gate actuator.
• Insure clear routing of this hose.
• A damaged hose WILL CAUSE EN-
GINE DAMAGE.
• Secure hose to waste gate nipple
with 1 large 11in zip tie. This MUST
BE snug / tight.
Step 103
• Connect the Turbo inlet to the OEM
pipe as shown.
• The pipe can be rotated to achieve
best alignment to the turbo.
• Secure with 2 OEM springs.
• The springs should be kitty-corner as
shown.

Step 104
• Install the CAC tube (long 2in sili-
cone hose with a 1in port on the
side.
• The 1in side port goes on the airbox
side.
• Position the T-bolt clamp as shown.
• Sorry, its kind of tight when tighten-
ing the clamp nut. We use a ratchet-
wrench
• Insure the hose is all the way on and
that the clamp is past the end bead
on the compressor cover.

Step 105
• Install the other end of the CAC tube
to the airbox as shown.,
• Secure with T-bolt clamp, do not
overtighten and crush the aluminum
tube,
Step 106
• Install the BOV (blow-off valve) using
a 1.5in worm clamp.
• The valve outlet should point down-
ward to prevent moisture from sitting
inside and freezing.

Step 107
• Connect the vacuum line from the
bottom of the manifolds to the BOV
and secure with a zip tie.
• Secure the rubber hose to the round
aluminum frame support along with
the GEMS fuel injector harness.
• Make sure that the rubber hose can-
not be hit by the secondary clutch,
remember as the secondary opens,
in inner sheave moves inward.

Step 108
• Install the air intake tube onto the
turbo air inlet. Remember the large
work clamp.
• Once the hose is over the compres-
sor inlet nipple, you will need to ro-
tate the hose upward so the upper
end of the hose is sitting as far back
as possible and nestled between the
steering column and the front alu-
minum frame support.
• See photo.
• Tighten clamp on turbo inlet.
Step 109
• Remove the upper OEM bolt / nut
that mount the ECU to the frame.

Step 110
• Install the supplied longer bolt,
washer and flange nut.
• The washer goes next to the bolt
head.

Step 111
• Once installed the bolt will extend
out as shown.
Step 112
• Configure the MAP sensor as
shown. The large washer is used to
retain the billet nipple to the MAP
sensor. You will use the OEM nut.

Step 113
ON MOUNTAIN MODLES:
• Locate the small rubber vacuum line
coming from the top of the manifolds.
• Insure clear routing; a damaged
hose WILL CAUSE ENGINE DAM-
AGE.

ON SEA-LEVEL MODLES:
• Route a small rubber vacuum line
form the clutch side of the Airbox.
• Insure clear routing; a damaged
hose WILL CAUSE ENGINE DAM-
AGE.

Step 114
• Trim hose as required and connect
the hose to the MAP sensor billet
nipple.
• Secure with zip tie.
Step 115
• Mount the MAP sensor to the back of
the upper ECU bolt as shown.
• Remember the large washer and the
OEM flange lock nut.
• See photo for proper alignment.

Step 116
• Locate the MPI EABC (Electronic Al-
titude Boost Compensator) boost
controller.
• Coil up the 2 wire harness and se-
cure with zip tie as shown.

Step 117
• Use provided velcro to mount the
EABC to the OEM ECU as shown.
• Connect the 2 wire EABC harness to
the 2 wire harness coming from the
Airbox boost solenoid.
• The solenoid harness is shown at
the top of the photo with corrugated
loom.
Step 118
• Secure wires as shown.
• All 3 wire looms will route forward as
shown.
• The single wire will cross the front of
the vehicle.
• The 3 wire harness will connect to
the MAP sensor you just mounted to
the back of the ECU.

Step 119
• Connect the EABC MAP Sensor plug
to the MAP sensor as shown.
• There will be a male MAP sensor
plug left unconnected.
• This will be connected later to the
GEMS controller.

Step 120
• Secure the GEMS fuel injector har-
ness to the top round aluminum
frame support as shown.
Step 121
• Locate the OEM 6 wire plug going to
the OEM coil pack.
• Disconnect the wire harness (push to
release).

Step 122
• Connect the GEMS harness in-line
(serial). The OEM 6 wire connector
goes to the GEMS and the GEMS
goes to the OEM coil pack.
• Secure the GEMS harness to the
round aluminum support shaft with a
zip tie as shown.

Step 123
• Locate the OEM 2 wire accessory
plug. It has a dummy parking place
on the steering column shroud.
• Disconnect the wire harness (push to
release).
Step 124
• Connect the GEMS harness in-line
(serial). The OEM 2 wire connector
goes to the GEMS and the GEMS
provides a new accessory plug.
• Park it back on the plastic steering
shroud.

Step 125
• Route the single wire harness from
the EABC boost controller mounted
on the OEM ECU across the front of
the vehicle. DO NOT ROUTE THIS
WIRE BEHIND THE STEERING
COLUMN (only in front of it).
• Any wiring behind the steering col-
umn can interfere with the DES Key.
• Connect the single EABC wire toi the
GEMS.
• You will have to remove a dummy
plug seal on the GEMS to allow the
connection.

Step 126
• Secure the single EABC wire as
shown.
• 1 zip tie on the handle bar control
wires and ..
• 1 zip tie on the front round aluminum
support shaft, as shown.
Step 127
• Route the 4 wire GEMS harness fol-
lowing the same path as the single
EABC wire you just installed.
• Connect the GEMS 4 wire harness
to the free connector on the EABC
MAP sensor harness.
• See photo.

Step 128
• Secure all wires to the OEM handle
bar wires as shown.

Step 129
ON MOUNTAIN MODLES:
• This Port can be used for a Boost
gauge or Plugged off.

ON SEA-LEVEL MODLES:
• Route a small rubber vacuum line to
the MAP sensor you installed on the
backside of the OEM ECU.
• Insure clear routing; a damaged
hose WILL CAUSE ENGINE DAM-
AGE.
• If you are using a boost gauge, you
and Tee your gauge into this hose
• Do NOT connect to the BOV hose.
Step 130
• If you are using a Wide Band AFR
gauge install it as shown.
• You must remove the stainless turbo
intake to prevent chips from entering
the turbo.
• Remove the 4 bolts securing the
pipe to the turbo.
• Remove the pipe springs.
• You may reuse the steel turbo gas-
ket.
• You may reuse the 4 bolts. Torque to
20+ foot-pounds

Step 131
• Locate the rubber OEM airbox / hood
grommet.
• Locate the new plug supplied

Step 132
• Install the billet plug into the grom-
met. Dished side faces out.
Step 133
• Install the plug assembly to the hood
using the OEM clamp.

Step 134
• Trim the hood insulation as shown.
• You will need about 1 inch behind
the new air intake flange.

Step 135
• Hold the flange in its best fitting posi-
tion and drill 5/32in hole in the plas-
tic.
• We recommend drilling 1 hole and
installing 1 rivet.
• Install remaining rivets drilling 1 hole
and installing 1 rivet at a time.
Step 136
• Use a 2-1/4in hole saw and cut the
hood plastic inside the new flange.
• Seal the flange to the hood using
narrow strips of foil tape.

Step 137
• Cover the inside of the plastic hood
heat shield with foil tape as shown.

Step 138
• Let the foil tape wrap over the edge
of the plastic hood heat shield.
• See photo.
Step 139
• Cover / protect the rubber chain case
vent cover with narrow strips of foil
tape as shown.

Step 140
• Cover the 2 OEM hoses that route
next to the round aluminum support
shaft, with foil tape.
• See photo.

Step 141
• Connect the GEMS controller to the
GEMS harness if not already done.
• Most people will want to mount the
GEMS under the hood. Possible on
the belt cover for easy access.
• Typically the GEMS controller re-
quires no adjustment.
STARTUP
• Recheck the motor’s 2 stroke oil level.
• Check sled for any type of leaks, rubbing, or interference of any kind.
• This is most easily done with the hood off.
• When you start the vehicle with the hood off, you should plug in you factory gauge pod.
• Unless you temporarily remove the Baro sendor from the hood and plug it in, you will re-
ceive a warning
• Start up and recheck everything.

VEHICLE SETUP and OPERATION (very important information – read carefully)

• The turbocharger carries a 1 year limited warranty. The warranty expressly excludes over-
heating, greese starvation and use of improper greese, operation with higher than 8PSI
boost levels and motor operation above 8,200 rpm also voids warranty. All turbocharger war-
ranty decision will be made by MTA, but MPI will assist and interface with factory as re-
quired. Warranty also expressly excludes any type of impeller damage.
• GEMS controller & EABC warranty is also referred to its manufacturer. Again, MPI will assist
in any warranty claims on these items.
• DO NOT RUN UNIT WITHOUT OEM AIR FILTER connected to the Turbo’s inlet.
• We recommend a water temp less than 180F during periods of extended full throttle riding.
You should never operate the vehicle at aggressive throttle; positions with water tempera-
tures above 200F.
• Target Operating RPM is 8000 (7,800 to 8,200 RPM). Do not operate the unit over 8,200
RPM for long periods of time (5 –10 seconds max).
• A wide band Air Fuel Ratio Meter is also recommended. A wide band unit will read actual air-
fuel ratio. 14.7:1 is perfect Stoichiometric (or Theoretical Combustion, which is the ideal
combustion process during which a fuel is burned completely). Air/Fuel numbers at less than
full throttle are almost meaningless on this direct injected 2-stroke:
• At WOT you should consider your target to be 11.5:1 to 12.5:1, but note that there was
less than a 3HP range on dyno testing with AFRs from 11.0:1 to 12.5:1.
• See Table for Fuel Recommendations: We recommend 100% race gas at or above 110 oc-
tane for boost levels 10 psi and above at all altitude levels. AVIATION FUEL is not the same
thing as Race Gas. Don’t use Av Gas; it is designed to boil at a lower temp (high altitude,
15,000ft plus) and is primarily used at part throttle and low RPM (2500 RPM. i.e. Airplane
motor)! A minimum mixture of 50/50 is often acceptable with pump premium and 110-race
gas.

0 to 2000 feet 3000 to 6000 feet 7000+ feet

0-3 PSI Boost 92+ Octane Pump 92+ Octane Pump 92+ Octane Pump
4-5 PSI Boost 50/50 (92+ Pump & 92+ Octane Pump 92+ Octane Pump
110)
6-7 PSI Boost 100% Race Gas 50/50 (92+ Pump & 92+ Octane Pump
110)
8-9 PSI Boost 100% Race Gas 100% Race Gas 50/50 (92+ Pump &
110)
10+ PSI Boost 100% Race Gas 100% Race Gas 100% Race Gas
• Intended boost values are 3 to 4 PSI at WOT at Sea Level and 6.5+ PSI at or above 8,500
feet.
• The Boost Controller or EABC or Electronic Altitude Boost Compensator works 100% auto-
matically. It is designed to supply 3.5 pounds of boost over sea-level air pressure. If air pres-
sure drops (either to to weather or an increase in altutude) the controller will automatically
increase boost to maintain constant power output.
• It is not uncommon to see 7 psi at higher altitudes.
• DO NOT CONNECT ANY GAUGES TO ANY OF THE HOSES
• DO NOT CONNECT ANY TYPE OF ACCESSORY TO ANY OF THE HOSES.

EABC (Electronic Altitude Boost Compensation)

• The EABC controller adjusts for day to day berometric Pressure variation.
• The EABC controller also adjusts for changes in altitude as you Ride.
• The following Chart is based on a Nonimal Pressure day (30.0 in-hg relative)
• On a low pressure day (eg 29 in-hg) your boost pressure will be 1/2 a pound higher
• On a high pressure day (eg 31 in-hg) your boost pressure will be 1/2 a pound lower

High Pressure Typical Pres- Low Pressure

day (PSI) sure day (PSI) day (PSI)

0 ft 3.0 3.5 4.0

1000 ft 3.4 3.9 4.4
2000 ft 3.7 4.2 4.7
3000 ft 4.1 4.6 5.1
4000 ft 4.5 5.0 5.5
6000 ft 5.2 5.7 6.2
8000 ft 5.9 6.4 6.9
10,000 ft 6.6 7.1 7.6
10,500 ft 6.8 7.3 7.8
12,000 ft 6.8 7.3 7.8

GEMS Controller:
• Typically your should never need to touch the GEMS controller
• Default Settings Green = 0.5, Yellow = 0.5, Red = 2.5, Blue-Green = 4.5
• Yellow mode is for 6000 to 6999 RPM only and has a small effect
• Red mode is for 7000+ RPM only and has a medium effect
• Blue-Green is active in addition to (G, Y or Red) any time there is Boost. It has a large ef-
fect.
• All 4 modes --> A higher setting = MORE FUEL
• Any time you have boost, the BLUE #8 light should be ON.