RESEARCH ARTICLE | JULY 07 2023

Colorfastness of batik dyed with dyes from banana hump

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W. Prasetyaningtyas  ; F. F. Kartika

AIP Conference Proceedings 2677, 090001 (2023)

https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0110130

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10 July 2023 04:27:52

 Colorfastness of Batik Dyed with Dyes from Banana Hump
W. Prasetyaningtyas1, a) and F. F. Kartika1, b)
1
Department of Home Economic, Faculty of Engineering, Universitas Negeri Semarang, Kampus UNNES
Sekaran Gunungpati Semarang 50229 Indonesia
a)
Corresponding author: wulan_sari@mail.unnes.ac.id
b)
riris.wsp@gmail.com

Abstract. Batik coloring using natural dyes is appreciated because it is environmentally friendly. Banana hump is one of
the natural ingredients that can be used as an alternative to be used as batik dye. The purpose of this study was to determine
the color fastness to washing and the color fastness to rubbing on batik cloth dyed using dyes from banana hump. The color
fastness test is carried out through laboratory tests by observing changes in the original color of the test sample, using a
gray scale standard to assess color stains on white fabrics. The results of the color fastness test against washing showed
that quicklime had good criteria when compared to the use of Tunjung mordant and lime mordant. The three mordant have
good criteria in testing the color fastness to rubbing with an average value of 4 on the use of quicklime mordant, while for
Tunjung mordant and lime have an average value of 3.5.

INTRODUCTION

Batik is the process of writing a picture or decoration on any media by using wax batik as a color barrier [1]. Batik

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is a design-making process using a barrier substance in the form of wax/batik wax on a cloth which is then colored by
the dyeing process. The batik wax is used to cover the surface of the cloth according to the batik motif image, so that
the covered surface resists color during the dyeing process [2]. Batik is a not simple concept; batik can present unique
ornamentation in patterns and colors and geometric shapes that it displays in addition to the most important thing is
that batik can also represent the process of making the patterns and ornamentation shown in it. Batik making seen
from the process is divided into three types, namely written batik, stamped batik, and a combination of written and
stamped batik.
Batik coloring can use synthetic dyes or natural dyes. Synthetic dyes are considered to be more practical in use
compared to natural dyes. The advantages of synthetic dyes over natural dyes include fixed color composition, more
color variants, ease of use, brighter coloring results, availability for all types of fiber, and generally more fastness and
ease to use [3]. But behind its advantages, synthetic dyes can have an impact on human health. The negative impact
of the use of synthetic materials containing azo and used directly as a dye, especially in clothing will trigger skin
cancer (90% damage the epidermal cells) due to its carcinogenic nature [4]. Cancer continues to be a worldwide killer,
despite the enormous amount of research and rapid developments seen during the past decade [5]. The incidence of
skin cancer has been increasing over the past decades globally [6]. Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell
carcinoma (SCC) are the most common skin cancers [7]. The World Health Organization estimated that more than
65,000 people per year worldwide died because of Malignant melanoma (MM) [8]. In addition to having an impact
on health, synthetic dyes can also hurt the environment. Due to waste from the textile industry containing heavy metals
such as: chromium (Cr), tin (Sn), copper (Cu), and zinc (Zn) [9].
This impact then made people aware, especially batik craftsmen, to return to using natural dyes. The use of natural
dyes is very helpful in reducing the disposal of dye waste into the environment, because these natural dyes can be used
repeatedly, especially in the textile industry. Coloring with natural dyes is preferred because it produces a beautiful
and distinctive color effect that cannot be imitated by synthetic dyes. This fact becomes the carrying capacity for
exclusive and artistic products such as batik, both at home and abroad.
Batik craftsmen must begin to develop natural dyes, so that the colors of batik produced are more diverse and
increasingly attract the interest of batik lovers. Behind the advantages of using natural dyes, the coloring process using
natural dyes in the process has the disadvantage that it takes quite a long time, this is due to several things including:
(1) preparing raw materials because they are natural so they have not been cultivated so that their availability is greatly
influenced by sources. existing natural resources, collectors, local conditions, and seasons; (2) the process of extracting

Proceeding of The 2nd International Conference on Engineering Science and Technology (ICEST 2021)
AIP Conf. Proc. 2677, 090001-1–090001-9; https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0110130
Published by AIP Publishing. 978-0-7354-4464-5/$30.00

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or taking coloring matter (either cold or hot depending on the type of raw material), requires a very short time; from
reducing the size of the raw material, then boiling it with water, until the solution is approximately 40% left, after the
liquid is separated from the residue, the extract if necessary is still concentrated/thickened again to reach the desired
concentration in the coloring process; sometimes the extraction process must be accompanied by fermentation for
certain types of natural dyes; (3) In the beginning, natural dyes were mainly used to color batik and to achieve the
desired color, the dyeing had to be repeated (at room temperature) every day 8-10 dyeing times for approximately one
week.
Natural dyes for textile materials are generally obtained from the extracts of various plant parts such as roots,
wood, leaves, seeds, or flowers [10]. Every plant can be a source of natural dyes because they contain natural pigments.
The potential source of natural dyes is determined by the intensity of the color produced which is very dependent on
the type of coloring matter that exists. Coloring matter is a substance that determines the color direction of natural
dyes, which are organic compounds contained in these natural dyes. This natural coloring matter is still widely used
and, moreover, its molecular structure bears some resemblance to that of natural tannins, so that its reactions with
protein fibers and metals may have interest in other directions [11].
One of the natural resources that surround our living environment that has the potential to be used as a natural dye
for batik is the banana plant. The banana plant has the scientific name Musa Paradisiaca consisting of several plant
parts, namely roots, stems, leaves, and flowers (banana heart). Banana leaves, fruit, and heart are part of the banana
plant that is often used by the community. Banana heart, which has been only used as a culinary preparation, can
actually be used as a natural dye [12]. Biochemists have identified thousands of pigments that are from plants and the
mechanisms and functions of these pigments [13].
The banana hump is the part of the banana tree that is at the bottom and is surrounded by roots that are usually left
to rot on the farm after the bananas are harvested as shown in Figure 1. Banana humps are wasted plantations which
gradually increase, and it is still difficult to allocate the waste. Banana hump which is dried and then crushed and
given certain solvents can produce several different colors [14]. Banana plants have the potential to be used as natural
dyes by utilizing banana weeds, as well as helping to reduce the impact of environmental pollution due to the use of
synthetic dyes.

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FIGURE 1. Banana Hump

Seeing these conditions, there are still few who use banana hump as a dye for batik. Natural dyes can perform
optimally when applied to textiles made from natural fibers. One of the natural fibers that can be used for coloring
using natural dyes is primissima mori fabric. Based on the above background, this study will analyze "The
colorfastness of dyed batik using dye from banana hump".
The objectives to be achieved in this study were to determine the colorfastness to washing and the color fastness
to rubbing on batik cloth dyed using dyes from banana hump.

THEORY

Trunk, banana plants with true trunks in the form of stem tubers (Javanese: bonggol) that are in the ground. The
banana corm or lower banana stem is a banana plant waste that has not been utilized optimally. Banana hump is a
waste that has high starch. It resemble sago starch and tapioca [15]. Banana hump has a composition of 76% starch,
20% water, the rest is protein and vitamin [16]. Banana hump contains a lot of water and starch which is rich in
carbohydrates, if it is dried to ashes it will produce soda which is used as raw material for soap and potassium fertilizer.
The water contained in the hump can traditionally be used as an anti-stomach medicine, and intestinal bleeding. The
lower banana stem (banana hump) contains a fairly high nutritional value with a complete composition.

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 The wet banana hump contains 43% of calories; 0.6% protein; 11.6% fat; 15% hydrate of charcoal; 60% Ca; 0.5%
P; 0.01% Fe; 12% vitamins; and 86% water, while dried banana hump contains 245% calories; 3.4% protein; 66.2%
fat; 60% hydrate of charcoal; 150% Ca; 2% P; 0.04% Fe; 4% vitamins; and 20% water.[17] The high nutrition
contained in banana hump, attracts public interest to use it as banana hump chips. The chemical content in banana
hump are tannins and flavonoids obtained from the extraction using reflux and maceration method with the highest
yield in the solvent aquadest.[18]
Mori primissima is the most refined class of mori. Mori is traded in pieces (blocks, blocks, rolls) with a width of
42 inches (± 106 cm) and a length of 17.5 yards (± 15.5 m). The arrangement or construction of the fabric is with yarn
numbers Ne1 50-56 (Nm 84-110) for warp yarns and Ne1 56-70 (Nm 96-118) for weft yarns. The yarn thickness and
density for warp yarns are between 105-125 perinch (42-50 per cm), while weft yarns are between 100-120 per inch
(40-48 per cm). Mori cloth contains light starch (below 10%) and the starch is made in such a way that it is easy to
remove in the laundry.
Mordant is a metal salt, such as aluminum, iron, tin, or chromium which functions to form a chemical bridge
between natural dyes and fibers so that the affinity of natural dyes increases to fiber.[11] Mordan is a binder of dyes
so that they do not dissolve in water or moisture. Part of the process of coloring natural dyes with the aim of producing
an even color on the fabric is called mordanting. Mordanting is part of the coloring process with natural dyes because
it will determine the success or failure of the coloring process. Dyeing with mordant can be done in 3 ways, namely:
(a) pre-mordanting, dyeing the material which is done by dipping the material with metal compounds first and then
after washing it is dyed with a chemical substance color; (b) simultaneous mordant (metachrom, monochrom), the
dyeing of the material carried out with a dye solution must consist of a dye and a mordant; (c) the final mordant (post
mordanting), immersion of the material in the dye solution first, then after the dye is completely absorbed into the
material, proceed with working on the mordant with metal compounds.
The mordan in making batik using banana hump is done using the post mordanting technique, namely dipping the
batik cloth into the banana hump extract and then adding the mordant. The mordant used in this study are:
1. Lime

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FIGURE 2. Lime

Lime (Citrus aurantifolia) is a type of herbaceous plant that has many branches and twigs, the stem is hard textured
with dark and dull outer skin. Lime fruit is round like a ping pong ball and is green or yellowish when it is ripe. In this
research, the lime extract will be taken and then used as a mordant which function as a generator and color enhancer.
2. Alum
Alum is a double salt of aluminum sulfate, which is used to purify water or a mixture of AI2 (SO 4) 3 dyes. Alum
is a dark white crystal, translucent, slightly sour in taste when licked, enhances color but can also be used as a water
purifier.

FIGURE 3. Alum
3. Calcium Oxide
Calcium oxide (CaO), commonly known as lime or raw lime, is a chemical compound that is widely used.
Quicklime is alkaline crystals, in the form of white to pale yellow / brown powder, odorless.

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 FIGURE 4. calcium oxide

Color fastness is a change in color due to some reason so that the color gradation changes or fades, color fastness
leads to the ability of the color to remain stable and does not change color fastness including sun fastness, washing,
iron rubbing, sweat and others. The color fastness value can be seen from the change in the original color of the stain
test and assessment of the white cloth. Assessment of fabric color fastness can be seen from 2 scales, namely the
standard gray scale (gray scale) and the staining scale.

METHODOLOGY

The tools used in this study were: scales, measuring cup, orange squeezer, stainless pan, wooden stirrer, stove,
small frying pan, canting, bucket, clock, hanger, clothesline tongs, scissors, bench, wicket, and knife.
The materials needed in making batik using dyes from banana hump are banana hump, primissima mori cloth,
water, tunjung, quicklime, lime, batik wax/wax.

Prepare the Primissima Mori Cloth to Be Used

a) The mori cloth was cut to a size of 30x30 cm for each experiment according to the experimental design.

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b) Soak the mori cloth in water for a few minutes.
c) Soaked mori cloth, aerated to dry.
d) The cloth that has been aerated is dipped in banana hump extract.

Banana hump

Banana hump cutting

Weighing

Banana hump cleaning

Banana hump boiling

Boiling

Filtering

Banana hump extract

FIGURE 5. Schematic drawing of banana hump extraction process

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 Banana Hump Extraction Process

The use of banana hump as a natural dye can be obtained through the extraction process. The banana hump
extraction process used in this study can be seen in the following scheme:
a) The banana hump is separated from the banana stem.
b) Banana hump that has been cut and then weighed.
c) Banana hump cut into small pieces.
d) Banana hump washed thoroughly.
e) Pieces of banana hump put into the pan.
f) Put water into a pot containing the hump with a ratio of 1: 10.
g) Add water when the cooking water has reached ¼ part until the banana hump turns dark red or blackish red.
h) The solution resulting from the extraction process is then filtered with gauze.
i) The banana hump extract solution that has been boiled is waited for it to cool and then it is ready to use.

Dyeing Process with Banana Hump

The dyeing process is carried out by way of last mordant (post mordanting) with the following steps:
a) Solutions of natural dyes extracted from the extraction process are prepared in a dyeing bath.
b) The cloth that is ready to be dyed with a solution of banana hump extract is soaked in a solution of banana hump
for a few minutes while turning it over until the solution is evenly absorbed into the fabric.
c) The cloth is drained and aerated on a prepared stretch of raffia.
d) The dyeing and drying process is carried out up to 15 times.
e) The dyed cloth is then added to each mordant solution, namely, tunjung, chalk and lime.

Laboratory tests are used to test the color fastness to washing and crocking with the following steps:

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Color Fastness to Washing Test

1. Prepare the reactors used, including a soap solution containing 5 g/l distilled water, soap with the following
conditions: a) containing water not more than 5% dry weight, b) free alkali as Na2 CO3 max 0, 3%, c) free alkali
as Na2 OH max 0.1%, d) fatty acids as Na salt max 85%, e) acid titer max 30%, f) jood number max 50.
2. Prepare the tools used, including goblets, heaters, threads, straining scale, stirrer, sewing needles, gray scale.
3. Prepare the materials, including two pieces of white cloth measuring 10 x 4 cm, one of which is made of fibers
similar to the material being tested, while the other is made of fiber pairs such as silk or cotton.
4. The way the tests are carried out in the laboratory are as follows:
a) The test material in the form of primissima mori cloth that has been colored is measured 10 x 4 cm, then placed
between the two white cloths and then sewn on all four sides.
b) The cloth was stirred for 30 minutes in a soap solution at 400C - 500C with a v lot ratio of 1: 30.
c) If stirring is done by hand, then the test sample is pressed against the wall of the beaker every two minutes without
being removed from the solution.
d) The cloth was rinsed twice with cold distilled water and then rinsed in cold running water for 10 minutes.
e) The fabric is squeezed, the seams on all three sides are removed so that one stitch remains on the fabric.

Then the fabric is assessed with gray scale for color changes from the sample of the test material, while staining
on the fabric is assessed with staining scale.

Fastness Testing Against Dry Rubbing

1. Connect the crock meter plug to a power source.
2. Cut the test sample of the dyed cloth with a size of 7.5 x 25 cm and a white cloth of 5 x 5 cm as an abrasive for
the dyed cloth.
3. Spread the cloth and clamp the ends of the cloth on the tool.
4. Attach the white cloth to the sheath on the rubbing part.

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5. Set the counter to zero and place the abrasive on the material to be tested then press the on button to start the
machine.
6. Pressing the off button to stop the machine, if the amount of rubbing is in accordance with the plan, namely 10
times of rubbing.
7. Assess the color stains that have stuck to the white cloth using a gray scale measuring instrument (staining scale).
8. Unplug the socket when the test has been completed. Guidelines for evaluating fastness can be seen in the
following table:

Descriptive analysis was used to test the color fastness to washing and the color resistance to rubbing. Table 1 shows
the guideline for evaluation of fatness resistance.

TABLE 1. Guidelines for evaluation of fastness resistance

Color fastness score Color fastness evaluation
5 Very good
4-5 Good
4 Good
3-4 Good enough
3 Enough
2-3 Less
2 Less
1-2 Poor
1 Poor

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

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Assessment by measuring fastness by assessing the original color change. This measurement or assessment is done
by comparing the color change that occurs with the standard of color change. The color fastness assessment was
measured using the Standard Gray Scale for color changes and the Standard Staining Scale for color staining.
In the gray standard, an assessment of color fastness and suitability is carried out by comparing the differences in
the tested sample with the original color samples against the corresponding differences of the color change standard
array depicted from lowest to highest grade as tabulated in Table 2.

TABLE 2. Table of color change assessment standard (Grey Scale).

Color differences (in Tolerances for Work
Color Fastness Score Criteria
CD) Standards (in CD)
5 0 0.0 Very good
4-5 0.8 ±0.2 Good
4 1.5 ±0.2 Good
3-4 2.1 ±0.2 Good enough
3 3.0 ±0.2 Enough
2-3 4.2 ±0.3 Less
2 6.0 ±0.5 Less
2-1 8.5 ±0.7 Poor
1 12.0 ±1.7 Poor

On the Staining Scale, the stain assessment of white cloth in the color fastness test is carried out by comparing the
color difference of the stained white cloth to the differences described by the Staining Scale as tabulated in Table 3.

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 TABLE 3. Table of Staining Scale Assessment Standards
Color differences (in Tolerances for Work
Color Fastness Score Criteria
CD) Standards (in CD)
5 0 0.0 Very good
4-5 2.8 ±0.3 Good
4 4.5 ±0.3 Good
3-4 5.6 ±0.4 Good enough
3 8.0 ±0.5 Enough
2-3 11.2 ±0.7 Less
2 16.0 ±1.0 Less
2-1 22.5 ±1.0 Poor
1 32.0 ±2.0 Poor

The color fastness test against washing is carried out by observing the change in the original color of the test
sample, using a gray scale standard to assess color stains on white fabrics. The test results of color fastness to washing
and color fastness to rubbing can be seen in the Table 4.

TABLE 4. Table of test result of color fastness

Washing soap Dry rub score
Mordant Test fastness test Criteria (Staining Criteria
score Scale)
1 3.5 4.0
Tunjung 2 3.5 4.0
3 3.5 4.0

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Average 3.5 Good enough 4.0 Good
1 4.0 4.5
Calcium oxide 2 4.0 4.5
3 4.0 4.5
Average 4.0 Good 4.5 Good
1 3.5 4.0
Lime 2 3.5 4.0
3 3.5 4.0
Average 3.5 Good enough 4.0 Good

Based on the table data, the color fastness test value against washing mordant Calcium oxide has the best fastness
when compared to the use of Calcium oxide mordant and lime mordant. The average value of the test results of fastness
to washing on dyeing batik cloth, with banana hump dye using lime mordant is 4 with good category. While the use
of alum mordant and lime has an average score of 3.5 with a good category.
The use of lime mordant also has the highest average in the rubbing fastness test. The average score of lime
mordant in the rubbing resistance test is 4, then followed by alum mordant and lime mordant with an average score of
3.5. The three mordant are included in good criteria on the results of the rubbing fastness test.

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 FIGURE 6. The result of staining batik with mordant lime

FIGURE 7. The result of staining batik with mordant alum

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FIGURE 8. The result of staining batik with mordant calcium oxide

CONCLUSION

Color fastness to washing which has the highest result is the use of chalk mordant, followed by tunjung mordant
and finally lime mordant. The use of chalk mordant in batik dyeing using dyes from banana hump, also has the best
fastness compared to tunjung and lime mordant

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