INTRODUCTION

GENERAL description and operation of the transmission and torque

converter are found in the SINGLE SPEED POWERSHIFT
TRANSMISSION Description and Operation.
This section has the repair procedures and troubleshoot-
ing for the single speed powershift transmission. The

FIGURE 1. INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION

 REPAIRS
Before removing the transmission from the lift truck, make
the checks described in Checks and Adjustments.
REMOVAL
A. Remove the engine and transmission together as de-
scribed in the ENGINE sections.
B. Remove the inspection plate at the top of the flywheel
housing. Loosen the two capscrews that hold the oil sump
tube to the transmission housing. Move the end of the tube
toward the center of the housing. See Figure 2.
C. Remove the 11 capscrews and lock washers that hold the
transmission to the engine.
FIGURE 2. OIL SUMP TUBE
D. Use blocks or chains to prevent engine or transmission
damage when separating the transmission from the engine.
Do not let the weight of the transmission press on the torque
converter or oil sump tube. Slide the transmission from the
engine and torque converter. Do not damage oil sump tube.
Remove the gasket.
NOTE
Keep all the gaskets and seals that are removed
from the transmission. An old gasket is a refer-
ence to help select the correct new gasket. Al-
ways install new gaskets and seals.
Before removing the torque converter from the engine, put
alignment marks on the flywheel and torque converter.
E. Remove the starter motor.
DISASSEMBLY
Before disassembling the transmission, carefully clean the
transmission housing. Keep the parts in a clean container
when they are removed. Keep the parts of a unit together to
prevent the loss of parts.
FIGURE 3. CHECKING THE GEAR CLEARANCE
 FIGURE 4. CHECK THE CONTACT PATTERN BEFORE DISASSEMBLY

A. Before disassembling the transmission, check the contact

pattern and gear clearance of the ring and pinion. See Steps V
to X in the Assembly section for the procedures. If the pat-
tern and clearance are the same as the specifications, the
pinion depth shims do not need to be changed. The shims for
the stator reaction sleeve and shims for the turbine shaft
must be changed if the pinion depth shims are changed.

B. Put identification marks on the side bearing caps and hous-

ing. Remove the adjuster retainer capscrews and the bearing
cap capscrews. Remove the caps and adjuster screws. Loosen
the locknut and remove the thrust screw for the ring gear
from the housing. Remove the ring gear and differential as-
sembly from the housing. Keep the bearing cups with the
same cones. See Figure 5.

FIGURE 5. MAKE IDENTIFICATION

MARKS BEFORE DISASSEMBLY

FIGURE 6. REMOVE THE THRUST PLUG
FIGURE 7. REMOVING THE BEARING CAPS
C. Put identification marks on each half of the case. Remove
the capscrews that hold the differential case together. Re-
move the spider gears, spider, thrust washers and side gears.
Do not remove the ring gear unless it is damaged. Remove
the bearings as shown in Figure 10.
FIGURE 8. REMOVING THE DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
D. If the pinion depth adjustment is correct, use a dial indica-
tor to check the movement of the stator reaction sleeve.
Loosen 3 turns the 6 capscrews that hold the sleeve to the
end cover. Fasten the dial indicator base to the housing. Put
the plunger of the dial indicator on the end of the reaction
sleeve. See Figure 11. Push the sleeve toward the transmis-
sion. Set the dial indicator to zero. Pull the sleeve and mea-
sure the travel. The movement must be less than 0.005 inch
(0.012 mm). If the movement and the pinion depth are correct,
the same shims can be used when assembling the transmis-
sion.
E. If the pinion depth adjustment and the reaction sleeve clear-
ance are correct, use a dial indicator to check the turbine shaft
clearance. Move the dial indicator plunger to the end of the
turbine shaft. Push the shaft and set the dial indicator to zero.
Pull on the shaft and measure the travel. The clearance must
be 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) to 0.021 inch (0.005 mm). If the clear-
ance is correct, the same shims can be used when assembling
the transmission.
NOTE
If the pinion depth shims or the reaction sleeve
shims are changed, the turbine shaft shims must
be changed. The turbine shaft clearance must be
checked after assembling the transmission.
 FIGURE 9. DISASSEMBLY OF THE DIFFERENTIAL

FIGURE 10. REMOVING THE SIDE FIGURE 11. CHECKING MOVEMENT OF THE
BEARINGS STATOR REACTION SLEEVE
 G. Loosen evenly the 8 capscrews that hold the end cover to
the housing. The cover has spring pressure against it. Re-
move the cover. See Figure 13.

FIGURE 12. CHECKING MOVEMENT OF

THE TURBINE SHAFT
FIGURE 14. REMOVING THE PISTON AND SEAL

F. Remove the two capscrews from the oil sump tube. Loosen
one the hose clamps. Remove the sump tube from the hous- H. Remove the piston and seal from the end cover. See Figure
ing. 14.

FIGURE 13. REMOVE THE END COVER FIGURE 15. REMOVING THE REACTION SUN GEAR
I. Remove the reaction sun gear. Remove the 8 piston return
springs. See Figure 15.

FIGURE 18. REMOVING THE SPECIAL CAPSCREW

FIGURE 16. REMOVING THE TURBINE SHAFT

J. Remove the turbine shaft. Remove the thrust washer and

shims from the end of the pinion shaft. See Figures 16 and 17.

FIGURE 19. USE CAPSCREWS TO PULL

PRESSURE PLATE

L. Remove the separator plates and friction discs from the

reverse clutch. See Figure 20.

FIGURE 17. REMOVING THE THRUST WASHER,

SHIMS AND FORWARD CLUTCH

K. Remove the four separator plates and the two friction

discs from the forward clutch. Remove the special capscrew
and O-ring that holds the pressure plate in position. Put
two capscrews in the threaded holes of the pressure plate
to remove the pressure plate. See Figures 18 and 19.
FIGURE 20. REMOVE THE REVERSE CLUTCH
M. Apply compressed air to the port shown in Figure 21.
Remove the reverse piston and seal.
FIGURE 21. REMOVING THE REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON
N. Remove the 6 place bolts that hold the pinion bearing
housing to the transmission housing. Press the pinion as-
sembly and pilot bearing from the transmission housing.
Make sure the assembly is not damaged when it separates
from the housing. Keep the shims together. See Figure 22.
FIGURE 22. CAPSCREWS FOR THE PINION BEARING
HOUSING
FIGURE 23. REMOVING THE CAPSCREWS
O. Disassemble the planetary gear carrier by removing the six
place bolts. Remove the carrier housing from the planetary
gears.
P. Remove the six thrust washers from the gears. Slide the
planetary gears from the shafts. Keep the gears with the same
shafts. Remove the three thrust washers and the shafts. See
Figure 24.
Q. To replace the needle bearings in the gears, remove the
snap rings. Use a press to remove the bearings.
R. Check the clearance between the thrust washer of the pin-
ion bearing housing and the reverse ring gear. The clearance
must be 0.015 inch (0.381 mm) to 0.025 inch (0.635 mm). If the
pinion bearing preload or pinion bearings are not changed,
the same shims can be used for the wear plate of the carrier
hub. See Figure 25.
S. Use a spring scale as shown in Figure 26 or a torque wrench
to measure the preload of the pinion bearings. The indication
must be 5 to 35 inch pounds (0.56 to 5 N.m). Changing the
bearing preload shims changes the clearance of the reverse
ring gear. If the preload is correct and the same bearings are
installed again, the same shims can be installed. See Figure 26.
T. To disassemble the pinion carrier assembly, bend the lock
plate from the pinion nut. Remove the nut with an air impact
wrench. See Figure 27.
 FIGURE 25. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
HERE

FIGURE 26. CHECKING THE PRELOAD

OF THE PINION BEARINGS

FIGURE 24. DISASSEMBLING THE FIGURE 27. REMOVING LOCK PLATE

PLANETARY GEAR CARRIER AND NUT
 W. Use a brass drift to remove the bearing cones from the
pinion bearing housing.

X. Use a press to remove the bearing cone and the pilot bear-
ing from the pinion.

WARNING

The inner race must have support when the pinion

is pushed from the bearing.

FIGURE 28. REMOVING PLANETARY GEAR HUB

U. Remove the carrier hub, reverse ring gear, O-rings and

thrust washer.

FIGURE 30. CAPSCREWS THAT HOLD

V. Use a press to push the pinion shaft from the bearing CONTROL VALVE
cone. Remove the seal, bearing cone, spacer and shims. See
Figure 29.

Y. Remove the control valve by removing the five capscrews.

Use a plastic hammer to loosen the valve body from the gas-
ket. To disassemble the control valve, see Assembly.

CLEANING

Cleaning the Powershift transmission is a very important part

of the repair procedure. Before inspecting the bearings, all oil
and dirt must be removed. Use solvent to clean all parts of the
transmission. Use compressed air to dry the parts and clean
the oil passages.

CAUTION
Do not use a cloth to clean the parts. Particles
from the cloth can cause restrictions in the oil
passages of the transmission.

Make sure all of the gasket material is removed. Any piece of

gasket material that is not removed can cause a leak.
FIGURE 29. REMOVING THE BEARING
CONE FROM THE PINION SHAFT
INSPECTION
A. Inspect the ring and pinion gears for wear or damage. The
ring and pinion must be replaced as a set if either is damaged.
Check the spider holes in the differential case for wear. In-
spect the spider, spider gears, thrust washers and side gears
for wear.
FIGURE 31. INSPECT THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE FOR
WEAR
B. Visually inspect the races, balls, and rollers of all the bear-
ings. Replace the bearing assembly if any defect is found.
C. Inspect all the thrust washers and wear plates. Wear on
thrust washers and wear plates causes clearances to change.
D. Check the bushings, needle bearings and shafts for wear
or damage.
E. Make sure the piston return springs are all the same length
and not bent.
F. Check the torque converter hub for wear or grooves. In-
spect the bore of the end cover for wear.
G. Put snap ring pliers in the hub of the torque converter.
Expand the tips of the pliers so that they touch the splines of
the inner race of the stator clutch. Quickly turn the pliers
counterclockwise. The stator must turn with the inner race
and continue to turn counterclockwise after the inner race is
stopped. When the pliers are quickly turned in the clockwise
direction, only the inner race will turn.
H. Inspect the bore for the turbine shaft in the stator reaction
sleeve. Check for grooves on the surface for the metal seal-
ing ring.
I. Inspect the planetary gear teeth for wear or damage.
J. Inspect the clutch pressure plate for damage where the
separator plates touch. Replace the pressure plate if the pres-
sure plate has grooves or defects.
K. Check all parts with splines for damage to the splines.
L. Make sure the valve spools in the control valve move
freely. The spools and bores must not have scratches or
grooves. The edges of the spools must be sharp to keep dirt
from getting between the spool and the bore. Do not change
the shape of the spools.
ASSEMBLY
Assembling The Control Valve
A. Disassemble the control valve only in an area free of dirt.
Before disassembly, carefully clean the outside of the valve
body. Remove all gasket material. To keep the parts in the
correct positions, remove, clean and install the valves and
springs of one bore before removing the next assembly. Do
not disassemble the solenoid. Replace all seals and O-rings.
Make sure the spools move freely in the bores and the drain
holes are open.
CAUTION
Do not get any grease or oil on the brake fluid
seal or bore of the inching spool. Use alcohol to
clean the inching spool and bore.
 FIGURE 32. CONTROL VALVE

FIGURE 33. LUBRICATION OF INCHING BORE

 1. FROM MONOTROL PEDAL 16. DIRECTION SPOOL SPRING DRAIN
2. “2” SPRING CAVITY DRAIN 17. CONTROL SPRING DRAIN
3. “3” SPRING CAVITY DRAIN 18. INCHING DRAIN
4. “3” REGULATOR SUMP 19. INCHING VALVE INLET
5. MODULATION SPRING CAVITY DRAIN 20. MODULATION VALVE INLET
6. TO DIRECTION SPOOL 21. MODULATION PILOT PASSAGE
7. DRAIN FOR FORWARD CLUTCH 22. BALANCE SPRING DRAIN
8. TO REVERSE CLUTCH 23. HOLES FOR CAPSCREWS
9. TO FORWARD CLUTCH 24. DRAIN FOR BRAKE FLUID
10. DIRECTION SPOOL INLET 25. INLET FROM HOUSING
11. FROM SOLENOID VALVE 26. “1” REGULATOR
12. TO SOLENOID VALVE 27. “2” REGULATOR
13. SOLENOID SUMP 28. TO TORQUE CONVERTER
14. REVERSE CLUTCH DRAIN 29. “1” SPRING CAVITY DRAIN
15. TO INCHING VALVE

FIGURE 34. CONTROL VALVE PASSAGES

 FIGURE 35. INCHING VALVE

Assembling The Differential CAUTION

NOTE
The parts must be completely clean and all gas-
ket material must be removed.
B. If the carrier bearings were removed from the differential
case, press the bearings in position. The force must be ap-
plied to the bearing race. The bearing cups and cones must
be installed as a set.
Make sure no dirt or metal particles are between
the ring gear and differential case.
E. Put the spider gears and thrust washers on the spider. In-
stall the assembly into the differential case. See Figure 37.
F. Align the identification marks on the differential case. Use
Loctite 277 on the capscrews and tighten the capscrews to 60
to 75 ft lb (82 to 102 N.m).

C. If the ring gear was removed from the differential case put G. Press the pinion pilot bearing on the end of the pinion gear.
the ring gear in water that is 160 to 180 degrees F (71 to 82 Press only on the inner race. Use a punch on the end of the
degrees C). After 10 minutes, remove the ring gear from the pinion gear to hold the bearing in position. See Figure 38.
water and put it on the differential case. Do not use a press
or hammer to install the ring gear.
H. Install the tapered roller bearing with the long rollers on the
pinion shaft. Press only on the inner race. See Figure 39.
D. Apply Loctite 277 and install the 12 bolts, lock washers
and nuts and tighten the nuts evenly to 85 to 115 foot pounds
(115 to 156 N.m).
 FIGURE 38. PUNCH MARKS TO HOLD
PILOT BEARING

FIGURE 36. ASSEMBLING THE

DIFFERENTIAL

I. Install the bearing cup in the pinion bearing carrier with the
tapered surface as shown in Figure 39.

J. Install the smaller bearing cup in the bearing carrier as

shown in Figure 39.

K. Install the bearing preload shims and spacer on the pinion

shaft. Lubricate the bearings and put the threaded end of the
pinion shaft through the bearing cups. Install the bearing
cone, thrust washer, reaction ring gear, carrier hub and nut.

L. Tighten the nut to 150 foot pounds (203 N.m). Use a spring
scale as shown in Figure 43 to measure the resistance to
turning. Multiply the reading from the spring scale by 2 to
get the turning torque in inch pounds. The carrier must be
turning when the reading is taken. The turning torque of the
carrier must be 5 to 35 inch pounds (0.56 to 5.3 N.m). If the
torque is less than the specification, disassemble the carrier
and remove shims. If the torque is greater than the specifica-
tion, add shims. The shims are available in three thicknesses;
0.020 inch (0.5 mm), 0.007 inch (0.18 mm) and 0.005 inch (0.13
mm).

FIGURE 37. ALIGNING THE

IDENTIFICATION MARKS
FIGURE 39. PINION BEARING ASSEMBLY
 FIGURE 40. INSTALLING THE SPACER
FIGURE 41. INSTALLING THE BEARING CONF
M. When the bearing preload is correct, check the clearance
of’ the ring gear between the thrust washer and planetary
gear hub. The clearance must be 0.015 to 0.025 inch (0.38 l to
0.635 mm). If the clearance is not correct, change the shims
under the wear plate on the reaction ring gear. The shims are
available in three thicknesses; 0.020 inch (0.5 mm), 0.007 inch
(0.18 mm) and 0.005 inch (0. 13 mm). Use Loctite 290 on the
threads of the allen screws. Tighten the screws to 86 inch
pounds (9.7 N.m).
FIGURE 42. INSTALLING THE REACTION
RING GEAR
FIGURE 43. CHECKING THE BEARING PRELOAD
N. When the clearance is correct, remove the nut, planetary
gear hub and reaction ring gear. Put the O-ring on the end of
the planetary gear hub. Put sealant around the outside diam-
eter of the seal. Put a small amount of oil on the lip of the seal.
Install the seal as shown in Figure 46.
O. Install the reaction ring gear, planetary gear hub,lock plate
and nut. Tighten the nut to 150 foot pounds (203 N.m). Bend
the lock plate around the nut. See Figure 42.

FIGURE 46. INSTALLING THE PINION

FIGURE 44. CHECKING THE CLEARANCE SEAL

1. THRUST PLATE
2. MOUNTING SCREWS
FIGURE 47. LOCK PLATE AND NUT

FIGURE 45. CHANGING THE SHIMS

P. If the needle bearings were removed from the planetary
gears, use a press to install the bearings. Lubricate the bear-
ings and press against the end of the bearing that has the
writing. Do not use a hammer. Install the snap rings into the
grooves in the gears.
 R. Install the three long and three short planetary gears. Use
a light grease to hold the thrust washers in position on the
planetary carrier. Put the planetary carrier over the gears.
Install the capscrews and tighten to 20 foot pounds (27 N.m).
Align the shafts and install the thrust plate. Use Loctite 290
and tighten the screws with an allen wrench to 86 inch pounds
(0.97 N.m). See Figure 50.

FIGURE 48. INSTALLING THE PLANETARY GEAR

SHAFTS AND THRUST WASHERS

Q. Lubricate with hydraulic oil and install the six shafts and
the three double thrust washers. The bronze side of the thrust
washer must be toward the planetary gears. See Figures 48
and 49. FIGURE 50. TIGHTENING THE CAPSCREWS

S. Put an O-ring on the pinion bearing carrier and install the

shims that were removed. Install the assembly in the trans-
mission housing. Install the capscrews and tighten to 35 foot
pounds (46 N.m).

FIGURE 49. INSTALLING THE THRUST FIGURE 51. CAPSCREWS FOR THE PINION
WASHERS BEARING CARRIER
T. Put the bearing cups on the cones of the differential car-
rier. Put the assembly in the housing. Put the adjuster screws
next to the bearing cups. Put the caps on the adjuster screws.
Check that the identification marks are aligned.
FIGURE 52. INSTALLING THE BEARING CAPS
CAUTION
Make sure the threads of the bearing caps align
with the adjuster screws. Turn the adjuster
screws to check the thread alignment before
tightening the bearing cap capscrews.
FIGURE 53. TIGHTENING THE CAPSCREWS
U. Install and tighten the capscrews to 110 foot pounds (148
N.m). Loosen the adjuster screw that is toward the tooth side
of the ring gear. Tighten the other adjuster screw until the ring
gear just touches the pinion. The ring gear must have no gear
clearance. Tighten the adjuster screw that is toward the tooth
side of the ring gear until the bearing cup is against the bear-
ing cone. Tighten that adjuster screw 2 notches more. Do not
tighten more than 35 foot pounds (47 N.m). This action ad-
justs the preload of the bearings and sets the ring and pinion
gear clearance. See Figures 53 and 54. Rotate the ring gear.
The dial indicator must not indicate a change of more than
0.003 inch (0.08 mm).
FIGURE 54. ADJUSTING PRELOAD AND
CLEARANCE
FIGURE 55. CHECKING THE GEAR
CLEARANCE
V. Check the gear clearance by using a dial indicator as shown
in Figure 55. Prevent the pinion from turning and slowly move
the ring gear backward and forward. The total indication must
be between 0.0075 to 0.0115 inch (0.19 to 0.29 mm). If the
clearance must be adjusted, move the adjuster screws equally
so that the preload is not changed.
FIGURE 56. CHECKING THE GEAR
CONTACT PATTERN
FIGURE 57. CONTACT PATTERNS
W. Apply a thin layer of grease to the outside curve of the
teeth of the ring gear. Put a large screwdriver between the
ring gear and housing to cause a resistance to turning. Turn
the pinion clockwise when looking in the transmission. Do
not turn more than 360 degrees.
X. Compare the contact marks on the outside curve of the
teeth with the patterns shown in Figure 57. If the marks are
too close to the narrow end of the teeth, increase the gear
clearance within the limits of the specifications. Decrease the
gear clearance if the marks are too close to the thick end of
the teeth.
Y. If the marks are too close to the bottom of the teeth, remove
the pinion assembly and remove pinion shims. If the marks
are too close to the top of the teeth, remove the pinion as-
sembly and add pinion shims.
Z. After adjusting the pinion depth, adjust the gear clear- bore. Put the piston in the bore with the flat side of the piston
ance and again check the pattern. It is very important that against the seal.
the tooth contact pattern is correct. When the pattern and
gear clearance are correct, install the lock plates and
B. On the S/ N T34 models, put a separator plate against the
capscrews that lock the adjuster screws. Adjust the clear-
piston. The separator plates are curved. All the plates must be
ance between the thrust plug and the ring gear. The clear-
installed with the curves in the same direction. Put a friction
ance must be 0.010 inch (0.25 mm). Tighten the lock nut.
disc between each separator plate. The reverse clutch has
five friction discs and six separator plates. See Figure 59.
Assembling The Transmission

NOTE
The friction discs and separator plates for S/N
T38 transmissions are not the same as friction
discs and separator plates for the S/N T34 trans-
missions. The number and arrangement of the
friction discs and separator plates are also dif-
ferent for the two models.

A. Lubricate the reverse piston seal with hydraulic oil.

Install the seal in the housing with the lips toward the

FIGURE 59. ARRANGEMENT OF FRICTION

DISCS AND SEPARATOR PLATES

C. On the S/ N T38 transmissions, put three separator plates

FIGURE 58. INSTALLING REVERSE against the piston. Install a friction disc, then a separator
CLUTCH PISTON AND SEAL plate. Install 3 more sets of friction discs and separator plates.
There are 4 friction discs and 7 separator plates in the reverse
clutch. See Figure 59.
 E. Use a small amount of grease to hold the shims and turbine
shaft thrust washer together. Put the shims and thrust washer
on the end of the pinion shaft. The oil grooves of the thrust
washer must be toward the turbine shaft. See Figure 61.

FIGURE 62. INSTALLING THE TURBINE SHAFT

FIGURE 60. INSTALLING THE PRESSURE PLATE

F. Lubricate and install the metal sealing ring on the turbine

shaft. Do not install the turbine shaft at this time. Lubricate
D. Install the pressure plate with the hole in the pressure the wear plate of the planetary gear carrier. Install the reac-
plate aligned with the hole for the special capscrew in the tion sun gear. See Figure 63.
housing. The pressure plate must touch the shoulder of the
housing. Install and tighten the special capscrew to 150 ft lbs
(213 N.m). See Figure 60.

FIGURE 61. INSTALLING SHIMS AND FIGURE 63. INSTALLING THE FORWARD
THRUST WASHER FOR TURBINE SHAFT CLUTCH, SPRINGS AND SUN GEAR
G. Install a separator plate and then a friction disc. All the J. Temporarily install the end cover and stator reaction sleeve.
separator plates for the H30-60H E3 must have the curves in Do not install the turbine shaft at this time.
the same direction. Install two separator plates and a friction
disc. Install the last separator plate. See Figure 59.

H. Put the 10 springs in the holes of the pressure plate. See

Figure 63.

FIGURE 66. INSTALLING THE END HOUSING

K. Use a dial indicator to check the movement of the reaction

FIGURE 64. END HOUSING ASSEMBLY
sleeve. Put the dial indicator on the end of the reaction sleeve.
Push the sleeve toward the transmission and set the dial indi-
cator to zero. Pull on the sleeve and check the reading of the
dial indicator. The movement must be between 0.0 to 0.005
inch (0.127 mm). If the movement is greater than 0.005 inch
(0.127 mm), shims must be added. If there is no movement,
subtract shims. See Figure 67.

I. Use the shims that were removed from the reaction sleeve.
Put the shims between the end housing and the sleeve. In-
stall the 6 capscrews, but do not tighten them now. Lubri-
cate and install a new piston seal into the end housing.
Install the piston. See Figure 65.

FIGURE 65. INSTALLING FORWARD FIGURE 67. CHECKING MOVEMENT OF

CLUTCH SEAL AND PISTON STATOR REACTION SLEEVE
L. Remove the end cover and reaction sun gear. Install the
turbine shaft and reaction sun gear. Put the gasket on the
housing. Lubricate the bore for the turbine shaft. Install the
end cover in the transmission housing. Do not damage the
metal sealing ring. Install and tighten the capscrews to 20
foot pounds (27 N.m). See Figure 66.

FIGURE 69. CAPSCREWS THAT HOLD

CONTROL VALVE

P. Slide the torque converter and oil sump ring on the reac-
tion sleeve. Make sure the oil sump tube is not damaged
when installing the torque converter. Turn the torque con-
verter until the splines are aligned. Continue turning until the
splines of the turbine align with the turbine shaft.

Q. Put a new O-ring on the front of the transmission hous-

ing. Put the engine and transmission together. Check that
the identification marks on the torque converter align with
FIGURE 68. CHECKING MOVEMENT OF the flywheel. Install and tighten the capscrews and lock

M. Put the dial indicator on the end of the turbine shaft. The
movement of the shaft must be between 0.001 to 0.021 inch
(0.025 to 0.53 mm). If there is too much movement, add shims
between the pinion gear and the thrust washer for the turbine
shaft. If there is no movement, subtract shims. See Figure 68.

N. When the clearances are correct, tighten the capscrews

for the stator reaction sleeve to 20 foot pounds (27 N.m).
Turn the turbine shaft to make sure the parts are correctly
installed. The ring gear must not turn.

O. Put a new gasket on the surface for the control valve.

Make sure there are no particles of gasket material on the
housing surface or on the control valve surface. Install the
control valve and tighten the capscrews evenly to 15 foot
pounds (20 N.m).

FIGURE 70. FLYWHEEL HOUSING

ASSEMBLY
washers to 23 foot pounds (29 N.m). See Figure 70.
R. Install one of the three place bolts that hold the torque
converter to the flywheel through the hole for the starter.
Turn the engine to install the other two place bolts. Tighten
the place bolts to 25 to 30 foot pounds (34 to 40 N.m).
S. Adjust and tighten the oil sump tube as described in
Checks and Adjustments.
CAUTION
Do not permit the O-rings to be damaged by the
ports in the pedal bore.
B. Put a new O-ring in the groove on the bracket end of the
pivot shaft. Push the pivot shaft into the pedal from the bracket
end of the bore until the other O-ring groove is seen. Install
the O-ring and snap ring on the pivot shaft. Push the pivot
shaft into the bore until the snap ring touches the pedal. In-
stall the snap ring on the bracket end of the pivot shoe.

INSTALLATION C. Align the dowel with that hole. Install the capscrew and
lock washer that holds the pivot shaft to the bracket. Connect
See the “ENGINE” section for the installation procedures. the hydraulic lines to the fittings. Connect the linkage.

MONOTROL PEDAL

Removal and Disassembly

A. Put tags on the oil lines and disconnect them at the

Monotrol pedal. Put caps on the open lines. Disconnect the
linkage.

B. Remove the snap ring that holds the pedal to the pivot
shaft. Remove the capscrew that holds the pivot to the
bracket. Remove the inner snap ring. To prevent damage to
the O-ring, push the pivot shaft out of the pedal until an O-
ring is seen. Remove the O-ring. Push the pivot shaft back
into the pedal and out the other end of the bore.

C. Remove the capscrews that hold the rotary spool to the

pedal plate. Remove the pedal pad and plate. Push the rotary
spool toward the back of the pedal until the O-ring is out of
the bore. Remove the O-ring. Push the rotary spool out the
front of the pedal. Remove the other O-ring.

Assembly and Installation

A. Lubricate the rotary spool, pivot shaft, O-rings and bores

with transmission oil. Install a new O-ring on the end of the
rotary spool that has the chamfer. Put the other end of the
rotary spool in the front side of the pedal bore. Push the
rotary spool into the bore until the O-ring groove extends
out of the bore. Install a new O-ring in the groove. Push the
rotary spool into the bore until both O-rings are in the bore.

FIGURE 71. MONOTROL PEDAL

 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Make these checks and adjustments when the transmission
is installed in the lift truck.
CHECKING THE MONOTROL PEDAL
FOR LEAKAGE
A. Disconnect the FORWARD pressure line at the control
valve. Put a plug in the open end of the line. See Figure 16.
B. Disconnect the drain line at the control valve. Move the
Monotrol pedal to the FORWARD position. Start the engine
and run the engine at full throttle. The leakage permitted from
the drain line is 0.38 litres/min (0.10 gal/min). More leakage
than this indicates a badly worn pedal body.
C. Remove the plug from the FORWARD line. Move the
Monotrol pedal to the REVERSE position. Start the engine
and run the engine at full throttle. The leakage permitted from
the two lines is 0.38 litres/min (0.10 gal/min). More leakage
than this indicates a badly worn pedal body.
FIGURE 72. THE TORQUE CONVERTER
D. Stop the engine and connect the oil lines to the control
valve. Make sure the fittings are tight. Start the engine and
check for leakage at the pedal.
MONOTROL LINKAGE
The Monotrol pedal must be adjusted to open the throttle
the correct amount. Adjust the linkage so that the carburetor
throttle arm or injection pump arm is fully opened when the
Monotrol pedal just touches the floor plate.
STALL TEST
The stall test checks the condition of the engine, trans-
mission clutches and the one direction clutch in the torque
converter. If the engine is not operating correctly, the
stall speed cannot be reached. If the one direction clutch
does not hold, the oil in the torque converter flows into
the impeller in the direction opposite of engine rotation.
Instead of helping the engine turn, the oil flow prevents
the engine from reaching full speed. If the engine speed
is greater than the given stall speed, the clutches are not CAUTION
holding or the wheels are turning. The clutches will not hold Do not keep the throttle open for more than 15
if the apply pressure is not high enough or the clutches are seconds at a time. Run the engine at idle for 2
worn. minutes between tests.

Release the pedal immediately if the engine speed

increases to governor limit speed.

If the engine speed is 50 to 200 revolutions per minute below

the specification, the engine is not operating at full power.
Check the ignition timing, fuel system and compression.

If the engine speed is 250 to 500 revolutions per minute below

the specification, the one direction clutch has a defect. The
torque convertor must be replaced as a unit.

If the engine speed is greater than the specification, the clutch

that is engaged is not holding. Test the other clutch by chang-
ing the direction control. If the engine speed is again too
much, make the pressure checks.

Disconnect the wire across the parking brake switch.

CHECKING THE OIL PRESSURES

Before checking the four circuit pressures, do the following:

FIGURE 73. CHECKING STALL SPEED A. Connect a tachometer to the engine. When the engine is at
the normal operating temperature, make sure the engine will
operate at the governor limit speed.

B. Install the four 0 to 150 (0 to 1 MPa) pressure gauges to the

Do a stall test to check the operation of the clutches. The ports shown in Figure 75.
engine and hydraulic oil must be at operating temperature.
Put a capacity load on the forks to prevent the wheels from C. Start the engine and tilt the upright backwards. Put blocks
turning. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Put the lift under the outer upright channels. Tilt the upright forward to
truck against an object that cannot move. Start the engine raise the wheels from the ground.
and slowly push on the Monotrol pedal to full throttle. The
tachometer must indicate 1750 to 1800 revolutions per minute.

NOTE
The wheels must not turn during this test. If
they turn, connect a wire to both inching sole-
noid terminals of the parking brake switch and
apply the parking brake.

Do not push on the inching brake pedal. This

action disengages the clutches.
FIGURE 74. CHECKING TRANSMISSION
PRESSURES
FIGURE 76. VALVE LOCATION

Monotrol Pressure

A. To test the Monotrol control circuit, read the gauge in-

stalled in the “1” test port.

B. Apply the parking brake and run the engine at 1000 revo-
lutions per minute. The pressure indication on the “1” gauge
must be 95 to 100 psi (655 to 690 k Pa).

C. Put the transmission in the forward position. Release the

parking brake. Run the engine at 1000 revolutions per minute.
The “1” and “2” gauge indications must not decrease mo-
mentarily by more than 10 psi.

D. Run the engine at 1000 revolutions per minute and change

the transmission to the reverse position. The “1” and “2”
gauges must indicate a momentary decrease and then return
to normal.
FIGURE 75. TEST PORT LOCATION
E. Apply the hand operated brake and slowly accelerate the
engine to 2800 revolutions per minute. The gauge indication
can increase a small amount and will change each time the
pressure regulator opens and closes.
F. If the “1” pressure is low, put shims behind the spring or
replace the spring at the “1” regulator.
G. If servicing the “1” regulator does not increase the pres-
sure, check the flow control valve or the solenoid valve.
H. If the pressure is correct in park and is too low in forward
and reverse, check the solenoid valve or the inching spool for
leaks.

FIGURE 77. MONOTROL CIRCUIT (PARK)

l. If the pressure in “1” is too high, check all of the regulator
valves. They must move freely. Check for too much pressure
or volume from the flow control valve.
Clutch Apply Pressure
The “2” gauge indicates the pressure of the oil before it flows
through the inching valve. The “2A” gauge indicates the
pressure of the oil that has gone through the inching spool
and the modulator valve.
FIGURE 78. SCHEMATIC FOR POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSION
A. Run the engine at 1000 revolutions per minute and apply
the parking brake. The “2” gauge must indicate 90 to 100 psi
(620 to 690 kPa). The “2A” gauge must indicate zero within
10-20 seconds.
B. Release the parking brake and select the forward position.
A small decrease must be indicated on the “2” gauge and
then the pressure must increase to 90 to 100 psi (620 to 690
kPa). The “2A” gauge must indicate 83-95 psi (573 to 655
kPa).
C. Repeat Step B for the reverse position. The indications
must be the same as for the forward position.
If the indication on the “2” gauge is low when in park and
the “l” circuit pressure is correct, add shims or replace the
“2” regulator spring. Check that the inching spool assembly
is correctly installed.
If the “2” pressure is low only in forward or reverse, the leak
is in the clutch circuit.
If the “2” circuit pressure is correct, and the “2A” circuit has
no pressure in forward or reverse, check the solenoid electri-
cal circuit.
If the “2” circuit pressure is correct and the “2A” circuit has
low pressure, check that the inching spool moves freely and
is installed correctly.
If both the “2” and “2A” circuits are low, check for leaks
inside the clutch circuit.
Inching Spool Operation
A. Run the engine at 1000 revolutions per minute and put
the direction control in forward or reverse. Slowly push on
the inching pedal. The “2A” gauge must indicate a decrease
in pressure when the pedal resistance increases. There can
be a 10 to 20 second delay before the pressure decreases to
0 psi.
B. When the inching pedal is at the end of its travel, the
“2A” gauge must indicate 0 psi.
C. When the pedal is released, the “2A” pressure must in-
crease to 83 to 95 psi (573 to 655 k Pa). If the “2A” gauge
does not indicate a decrease in pressure when the pedal is
pushed, the air must be removed from the brake fluid. Open
the special fitting when the pedal is pushed. Close the fitting
before the pedal reaches the end of its travel. Repeat the
procedure until there is no air in the system. Check the fluid
level in the brake master cylinder to make sure air does not
enter the system. If oil enters the brake fluid, the seals will be
damaged. The operation of the inching spool will not always
be the same.
Torque Converter and Oil Cooler
Pressure
Before checking the torque converter pressure, remove the
line to the bearings for the pump drive on gas and LPG
lift trucks. Install a plug on the fitting on the control valve.
A. Put the transmission in forward or reverse and run the
engine at 1000 revolutions per minute. The indication on the
“3” gauge must be 65 to 75 psi (450 to 518 k Pa).
B. Increase the engine speed to 2800 revolutions per minute.
The “3” gauge must indicate 75 psi (518 kPa).
If the indication on the “3” gauge is too low, the “3” regulator
valve must be checked for defects. Add shims or replace the
spring. If the pressure continues to be too low, check the flow
at the cooler. If there is no flow at the cooler there is a leak
inside the transmission.
If the pressure is too high, check for a restriction in the torque
converter or cooler circuit. Check for bent cooler lines.
Remove the plug and connect the line to the pump drive.
CHECKING THE POWERSHIFT
ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
Check the solenoid electrical circuit if the lift truck does not
move in either direction when the engine is running and the
parking brake is released. The inching spool prevents oil flow
to the clutches when the solenoid is not energized. See Figure
79.
A. Put the key switch in the “ON” position and release the
parking brake. Use a voltmeter to check for voltage at the
solenoid. If there is no voltage, check for voltage to the park-
ing brake switch at the parking brake lever.
B. If there is voltage to the solenoid terminal, a small noise
must be heard from the solenoid when the key switch is turned
to the “OFF” position. If there is no noise, remove the sole-
noid and visually check its operation. The plunger must move
when the solenoid is energized.
C. If the solenoid is operating correctly check the inching
spool for defects.
CHECKING THE CIRCUIT FOR THE
DIRECTION CONTROL LEVER

Models with a direction control lever use an additional elec-

trical circuit. The direction solenoid sends oil pressure to the
direction valve when the lever is in the “FORWARD” posi-
tion. The pressure switch makes sure there is oil pressure to
the end of the direction valve when the direction control
lever is in the “FORWARD” position. If the pressure is below
40 psi (225 k Pa) to 80 psi (550 k Pa), the switch prevents the
inching solenoid from being energized. The lift truck will not
move unless the inching solenoid is energized. The diode
prevents the direction solenoid from being energized when
the lever is in the “REVERSE” position.

FIGURE 79. POWERSHIFT ELECTRICAL

CIRCUIT

FIGURE 80. POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSIONS WITH DIRECTION CONTROL LEVER

A. To check the direction solenoid circuit, move the lever to
the “FORWARD” position. Touch the (+) wire of a voltmeter
to the terminal of the direction solenoid. Touch the (-) wire to
a ground. When the key switch is in the “ON” position and
the parking brake is released, the voltmeter must indicate a
voltage. A small noise must be heard from the solenoid,
when the direction lever is moved to the “NEUTRAL” posi-
tion.

B. Connect a 0 to 150 psi (0 to 1.0 kPa) pressure gauge to the

“1” port. When the key switch is in the “ON” position, the
parking brake is released and the direction lever is in “FOR-
WARD”, there must be voltage to one terminal of the switch.
There must not be voltage to the other terminal. When the
engine is started, both terminals must have voltage.

ADJUSTING THE OIL SUMP TUBE

If oil leaks from the starter motor or the vent line, too much
oil is in the flywheel housing. The oil sump tube must be
adjusted.

A. Remove the vent cover and loosen, but do not remove,

the capscrews that hold the oil sump tube to the housing.

B. On gasoline and LPG engines, remove the coil wire. On

diesel engines, hold the stop cable out so that the engine FIGURE 81. OIL SUMP TUBE AND RING
will not start. Touch the sump tube with your hand and run
the engine with the starter. Slide the tube toward the ring
until movement of the tube is felt.

C. Move the tube away from the ring just enough to prevent
touching. Tighten the capscrews to 15 foot pounds (20 N.m).
Connect the coil wire.

TROUBLESHOOTING
PRESSURE TESTS
TROUBLESHOOTING THE DIFFERENTIAL
SPECIFICATIONS