AVS

COLLEGE OF ARTS & SCIENCE

(AUTONOMOUS)
Attur Main Road, Ramalingapuram, Salem - 106.
(Recognized under section 2(f) & 12(B) of UGC Act 1956 and
Accredited by NAAC with 'A' Grade)
(Co - Educational Institution | Affiliated to Periyar University, Salem
ISO 9001 : 2015 Certified Institution)
principal@avscollege.ac.in | www.avscollege.ac.in
Ph : 98426 29322, 94427 00205.

Study Material
FASHION BUSINESS
Paper Name :
COMMUNICATION
Paper Code :
Batch : 2023-24
Semester : Odd Semester
Staff In charge : Ms.SWEATHA.S
 SYLLABUS

Unit:1 World of Fashion- An Overview

Factors influencing fashion changes – Accelerating and Decelerating
factors Understanding Fashion designer – types – classicist, idealist, influenced,
realist, thinking poet. Minimalists, Village India, Studio line. World Fashion
Centers – Milan, Paris, London and New York
Unit:2 Legendary Fashion Designers
Study of International Fashion Designers of the World – Yves Saint
Laurent, Valentino, Pierre Cardin, Ralph Lauren, Karl Lagerfeld, Donna Karen,
Georgio Armani, Coco Chanel, Calvin Klien, Christian Dior. An overview of
Indian Fashion Designers – Manish Malhotra, Manish Arora, Ritu Beri, Tarun
Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Wendell Rodricks, JJ Valaya.
Unit:3 Fashion Products and Promotion
The fashion industry and new product development; product mix and
range planning. Fashion and Seasons. Fashion Promotion – Fashion
Communication; Fashion Advertising and Publicity; Personal Selling –
importance and steps involved; Fashion Shows – types and steps involved in
organizing a show; Sales promotion methods /strategies.
Unit:4 Fashion Retailing
Fashion Retailing - Scope and functions, Types of Stores, Challenges for
fashion retail in India, E- retailing – growth and development, Major players of
fashion goods online. Pricing policies and strategies for apparel products,
Functions and factors Influencing pricing, pricing strategies for new products,
methods of setting prices
Unit:5 Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance; Environmental
concerns related to fashion; Linear fashion and circular fashion; 4R’s in
sustainability – Repair, recycle, reuse and reduce. Eco fashion, Slow fashion;
Environmental impact of fast fashion.
 Unit:1

World of Fashion- An Overview

⮚ Factors influencing fashion changes – Accelerating and Decelerating
factors Understanding Fashion designer – types – classicist, idealist,
influenced, realist, thinking poet. Minimalists, Village India, Studio line.
World Fashion Centers – Milan, Paris, London and New York.

Factors influencing fashion:

⮚ Fashion, by nature, is a dynamic and transient culture, which keeps
changing in time and space. In fact, if we talk about the permanent thing,
there is hardly anything on the planet earth, which has such property,
everything keeps changing. Since, human mind is also part of this planet;
so, it also seeks changes in terms of place of living, food, and of course
cloth or fashion. People want to have new styles and new fashions.
⮚ But such changes are not essentially and always because of people’s
wishes, but rather there are many other causes that influence fashion.

Factors That Influence Fashion

⮚ Human nature, of course, is one of the most important reasons for
changing fashion, as it always demands new and trendy products. But
along with it, the following are some other significant factors that
influence fashion:

1. Psychological Factor

2. Social Factor

3. Economic Factor

4. Cultural Factor

5. Political Factor

6. Environmental Factor
7. Physiological Factor

Psychological Factor
● Psychological factor is an important factor that influences a person to
follow a trend or may influence the opposite. In other words, everyone
follows the jeans and shirt, but one person prefers to wear pajama kurta
(the ethnic wear). So, it expresses individuality and does not get
influenced by society. Likewise, many times, it gives importance to
personal choice instead of following the trends.

Social Factor

● Social factor is one of the most significant factors that influence fashion
frequently and expansively. Its area is pretty wide and includes many
factors, such as place of living (urban area or rural area), educational and
cultural background, status in society, gender, profession, and, of course,
occasions. These factors, sometimes influence separately or sometimes
collectively.

Economic Factor
● Interestingly, fashion is one of the indicators that reflects the financial
condition of a person in his society and economic condition of country in
the whole world. Fashion reflects the availability of raw materials, level
of infrastructure, and technological advancement in a particular country.
So, if a country is rich and developed, fashion in that country will be
luxurious. On the other hand, fashion in developing or underdeveloped
countries, is at a very low level.

Cultural Factor
 ● Culture is the traditions and practices that a society of a particular region
follows in a given period in time. Every society has its own culture;
hence, not only fashion influences culture, but rather culture also
influences fashion vice-versa. For example, an old man who always wore
pajama kurta (the traditional dress) started wearing track suits, jeans, etc.

Political Factor

● Directly or indirectly, political factor also plays an important role in

influencing fashion. Time to time, government keep changing the law,
economic policies, and political policies, all these factors, collectively
influence fashion. For example, in the early 1990s, liberalization,
globalization, and privatization of the Indian economy encouraged many
foreign fashion companies to launch their products in India, which greatly
influenced fashion.
Environmental Factor
● Environmental factor largely includes seasons, like the winter season,
which have entirely different clothing styles, influences fashion; the
summer season, in this season, people prefer to wear only light cotton
shirts and pants, t-shirts, jeans, etc.; and in rainy season, people prefer to
have differently designed raincoats and other waterproof cloth.

Physiological Factor
● It includes age, skin color, body structure, height of the person, etc. With
growing age, people change their choices. So, fashion is essentially
guided by such principles as well.

Some other factors that influence fashion are:

⮚ Dominating events: some of the significant events, like war, big national
level cultural events, fashion events/shows, etc. influence fashion.

Influence of celebrities: most of the youngsters in society, get easily influenced

by the film stars, sports persons, musicians, and other celebrity kind of people.
In fact, the dressing style, walking, speaking, and appearance styles of these
celebrities are very important factors that influence especially youngsters and
they seek same designs and brands.

Geographical Factors: geography involves many factors, but significant

among them are, of course, relief features and the location of the region (either
located in a hilly region, or along the bank of a river, desert, etc.). All these
factors influence fashion.

Technological Advancement: technology not only helped researchers and

scholars to research new things, but also influenced fashion designers. By using
technology, fashion designers create designs virtually and then decide whether
it is worth it to materialize or not.

Accelerating and Decelerating factors:

Accelerating factors:

● Communications and mass media,

● Good economic conditions,
● Increased competition,
● Technological advances,
● Social and physical mobility,
● More leisure time,
● Higher levels of education,
● Changing roles of women,
● Seasonal changes

Decelerating factors:

● Bad economic conditions (consumers have less money to spend)

● Cultural customs (passing down traditional clothing; not buying
new)
● Religion (fashion may lead to corruption and temptation)
● Laws/government regulations (tariffs, quotas)
● Disruptive world events (droughts, wars, terrorism).

Understanding Fashion designer

⮚ Fashion designers work in a variety of different ways when designing
their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and
earrings. Due to the time required to put a garment out in the market,
designers must anticipate changes to consumer desires. Fashion designers
 are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving
shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more.
⮚ Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as
aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and
the situations in which it will be worn, and they work within a wide range
of materials, colors, patterns, and styles. Though most clothing worn for
everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual
garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or
party dresses.
⮚ Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of
haute couture or bespoke tailoring. Today, most clothing is designed for
the mass market, especially casual and everyday wear, which are
commonly known as ready to wear or fast fashion.

TYPES OF FASHION DESIGNER

CLASSICIST
⮚ These type of designers are produce design following the traditional
designs, colours, silhouette and other design details like embroidery, bead
work, etc.
⮚ The classist designer is one who is responsible for radical fashion
changes in fashion industry.

IDEALIST
⮚ They want to be ideal in the fashion industry.
⮚ Their designs also differ from other designs.
⮚ Their works are out of touch with reality.
⮚ This stare creation is only worthy for ramp shows, not for real life.

INFLUENCED
 ⮚ They are copied from some other designs which was already existing in
the market.
⮚ They have very little to offer by their own creativity.
⮚ They make some alterations in the existing design and produce the new
designs with their own label.
⮚ They don't want to take too much of risk.
REALIST

⮚ They are the role models for influenced designers.

⮚ These designers are most important persons for the success of fashion
industry.
⮚ They produce designs with their own ideas.
⮚ When compared to other designers their works on time consuming works.

THINKING

⮚ The mission in fashion designing is to express himself.

⮚ They also supplies lot of creative ideas for other fellow designs.

⮚ The thinking designer also holds the responsibility of educating the

consumer in experimenting with unusual fabric choice.

POETIC
⮚ They regard the consumer as an extension of his creativity.
⮚ The first activity of this kind of designers is to recognize the choice of
consumers and then perform designers.
⮚ They spend more time on accessing real interest and needs of the
consumers.

WORLD FASHION CENTRE

 ⮚ The ‘BIG FOUR” London, Paris, New York, and Milan. These are the
fashion capitals of the world. The fashion capitals are the cities that have
a major influence on international fashion trends, designs, production,
and retailing. Also on the events that have a huge impact on the economic
output. These are events such as award ceremonies, trade fairs, and most
importantly fashion weeks.

⮚ London, Paris, New York, and Milan hold the most important role in the
fashion world. Fashion capitals normally have a wide blend of business,
imagination, amusement, social, and recreation exercises. And are also
universally perceived for having a novel and solid personality.

⮚ There are individual reasons as to why these four are famous and
considered the fashion capitals. Let’s know why:

Paris
● From the 17th to the 21st century, Paris has remained a fashion capital.
Why?

⮚ Best designs – Paris has some of the best designers in the world. Namely,
Vuitton, Balenciaga, Céline, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy,
Chloe, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Hermès and Lanvin.
⮚ The Golden Triangle- Dior to Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent. New York
has all hot couture houses.
⮚ Paris Fashion Week is a very well-known reason why Paris is a fashion
capital. It is the final fashion week that decides what trends will be
present in the coming season.

London
⮚ The language obstruction or absence of it plays a huge part in building up
urban communities like London as the worldwide capitals of fashion.
London is full of individuals from vivid backgrounds, and this
multicultural perspective made originators who are situated in London
stick out. This trademark and the unmistakable items, with regards to
fashion, permits London to rival the remainder of the huge fashion
capitals.
 ⮚ London’s DNA has streetwear in it. Its history has a street culture that is
visible across its fashion landscape.
⮚ London is fiercely independent and diverse. It is above all when it comes
to diversity across all statures in fashion.
⮚ No gender barriers. London fashion breaks all gender barriers. New
designers completely disregard the stereotypical norms of gender.

New York
⮚ Paris is not the only trendsetter. New York also is. People living in New
York know how integral fashion is. It is the first to host the fashion week.

⮚ Synonym for big brands and high-end lifestyle

⮚ Young, cool yet sporty, and saleable touch
⮚ Most casual of all the fashion weeks

Milan
⮚ One of the “Fours”, Milan has something as so-called Milan houses.

⮚ Its contributions to some of the best designers made it a fashion capital.

⮚ The words that describe it are enchanting and instigating.
⮚ Milan fashion week is unique and flexes on sex appeal
⮚ The style business turns for a significant stretch of years since the history
of mankind’s set of experiences. It has been known to exist together with
human culture for an extensive stretch. The style business is a powerful
industry, which is a result of history and ‘a true term that relies upon
setting to give it its passionate characteristics.’ For a long time, London,
Paris, New York, and Milan have been considered as the urban
communities which house the beginning of fashion and subsequently
have been viewed as the fashion capitals of the world for a really long
time.
 Unit:2
Legendary Fashion Designers
⮚ Study of International Fashion Designers of the World – Yves Saint
Laurent, Valentino, Pierre Cardin, Ralph Lauren, Karl Lager field,
Donna Karen, Georgio Armani, Coco Chanel, Calvin Klien, Christian
Dior. An overview of Indian Fashion Designers – Manish Malhotra,
Manish Arora, Ritu Beri, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Wendell Rodricks,
JJ Valaya.

Study of International Fashion Designers of the World

Yves Saint Laurent

⮚ Yves Saint Laurent gained popularity in the world of fashion due to his
creativity in redesigning masculine clothing into beautiful, feminine
pieces for women. Perhaps one of the most renowned designers in
France, Yves was the first designer to introduce <power dressing= for
 women in the form of trendy, high fashion power suits in 1966. The
visionary is credited with designing the men9s smoking jacket. His
refreshing concept of ready-to-wear fashion has allowed him to make
history during his legendary time

Valentino Garavani
⮚ Born in Italy in 1932, Valentino Garavani studied fashion design at a
young age, training in Paris in 1950 and starting his own fabulous line in
Rome in 1959 after working for impressive houses like Dessus and
Laroche. Valentino is celebrated for his profound ability to make women
look utterly glamourous. The Italian maestro dressed influential women,
such as Jacqueline Kennedy, and goes down in history for his signature
fabric shade, Valentino Red.

Pierre Cardin
⮚ The Italian-born Frenchman is praised for his 20thcentury pieces that
exuded a futuristic flair. As Pierre Cardin rose to fame in the age of the
space race, his creations embodied the perfect touch of innovation,
inventiveness, and modishness. His 8bubble dresses9 radiated science
fiction, combining earthly elegance with out-of-this-world colors and
avant-garde design

Ralph Lauren (Born 1939)

⮚ American fashion designer, mainly build his brand as an elite American
lifestyle brand that made it a globally successful fashion empire. In 1968,
he named his first full line of menswear 8Polo9. He explains his style,
<I9m interested in longevity, timelessness, style—not fashion.= He is a
notable philanthropist

Karl Lagerfeld
⮚ One of the most acclaimed fashion designers in the world, Karl Lagerfeld
was born in Hamburg, Germany. As a teenager, Lagerfeld worked at
Balmain for four years before moving to Jean Patou where he became
artistic director at 21. His prolific portfolio now encompasses Chanel and
 Fendi along with his own house. Known for his bold designs and constant
reinvention, he9s been hailed by Vogue magazine as the <unparalleled
interpreter of the mood of the moment.= King Karl, the one-man
multinational fashion phenomenon

⮚ Donna Karan (Born 1948) Full name Donna Ivy Faske is an American
Designer. Globally known for her acclaimed comfort and simplicity
integrated fashion designs of the clothes. In 1988, debuted the DKNY
line under the Donna Karan Co. She was particularly distinguished for
her signature bodysuits, dark tights, fitted jackets, and heavy pieces of
jewellery.

⮚ Armani (Born 1934) Italian fashion designer, mainly known for an

extremely luxurious, elegant and relaxed style of design. In 1975, he
launched his label for men and women ready-to-wear, later diversified
into music, sport and luxury hotels. He expresses his fashion philosophy
as, <I was the first to soften the image of men and harden the image of
women. I dressed men in womens fabrics, and stole from men what
women wanted and needed—the power suit.

⮚ Coco Chanel (1883-1971) For almost six decades this French fashion
designer ruled Parisian haute couture. Her stylishly simple designs
encouraged women of fashion to desert the complex, painful clothes, that
were prevalent in the 19th-century like petticoats and corsets. She
believed <luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury,= Her
designs focus on simplicity and comfort and later her fashion belief
revolutionized the whole fashion industry. Chanel suit, the quilted
purse, costume jewellery, and the <little black dress= are some of her best
innovations and contribution to women fashion. Perfume 8Chanel No. 59,
which she introduced in 1921 became the financial basis of this brand.
One of the most influential, Karl Lagerfeld led Chanel9s couture house
with tenure (1983–2019), after her death

⮚ Klein (Born 1942) American fashion designer eminent for his design of
jeans, womenswear, menswear, cosmetics and perfumes, bath & bed
 linens, and other fashion collections. He established Calvin Klein Inc. in
1968. He expressed his design philosophy as <simple, comfortable but
stylish clothes—but with nothing over scale or extreme.= His label
clothes were fairly pricey, classic and elegant. Notably easy to wear and
highly appreciated by fashion enthusiasts in the US and other countries.

⮚ Christian Dior (1905-1957) French fashion designer ruled the fashion

world during world war two. He revolutionized fashion and introduced
some variety of new silhouettes, together with H-line, A-line, and Y-line.
In 1947, he introduced the ground-breaking new look, igniting
international controversy over its drastically lowered hemline. The
look featured small shoulders, a cinched waist, and a voluminous
skirt.

Indian Fashion Designers

Manish Malhotra:
⮚ Over the past few years, Manish Malhotra has become synonymous with
Indian fashion. He is an ace fashion designer who has designed many
Bollywood, Tollywood and even Hollywood movies. Manish was born in
1966 and started his career as a runway model. The Mumbai-born
designer launched his namesake label “Manish Malhotra” in 2005 and
opened multiple stores in the country.

⮚ Manish’s clothing line features a generous dose of glamour through his

usage of contemporary colours, modern embroideries and edgy designs.
Popular Bollywood celebrities like Alia Bhatt, Jhanvi Kapoor, Kareena
Kapoor etc., prefer Manish Malhotra over other designers for his
distinctively modern and sensual outfits. He also won the “Best Costume
Designer Award” several times for his stunning creations in many iconic
films like “Kal Ho Na Ho”, “Kabhi Kushi Kabhi Gham”, etc.

Manish Arora
 ⮚ Manish Arora is a Delhi-based fashion designer renowned for the usage
of strikingly bold colour palettes and Kitsch motifs that transform
garments into wearable pieces of art. Manish started his design career in
1997 after graduating from NIFT, New Delhi, and launching his label
“Manish Arora”. He expanded his business by launching his flagship
store, ‘Manish Arora Fish Fry’.

⮚ Fashion experts often regard Manish Arora as the “King of Avant-Garde”

for his sophisticated and modern designs. His psychedelic prints
combined with outlandish patterns exemplify his unique taste and
sensibilities. Apart from dressing up Indian celebrities, Manish also
designed outfits for international celebs like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Katy
Perry etc.

Ritu Beri
⮚ Ritu Beri is one of the eminent fashion designers of India who launched
her label in 1990. She is the first in many aspects, including the first
Indian designer to be featured in PROMOSTYL, a style magazine, the
first Indian Designer to do a fashion show in Paris and the first Asian to
become the head of a French Fashion brand.

⮚ Ritu was also the protege of the French legend Francois Lesage, and her
creative talent was applauded by many top-league fashion designers of
the world. She was also mentioned as the “First Lady of Fashion in India”
by Time Magazine, indicating her stature in the fashion industry. Ritu is
famous for giving an Indian expression to contemporary clothing and
converting them into client-pleasing ensembles.

Tarun Tahiliani
⮚ Tarun Tahiliani is India’s first fashion designer who has created a name
for himself in the global fashion arena. His career in designing began in
1987 after co-founding Ensemble, India’s first multi-designer boutique
with his wife, Shailaja Tahiliani. Within a short span of time, Tarun
 emerged as one of the country’s biggest designers and launched several
collections that range from traditional silhouettes to western ensembles.
⮚ Over the last few years, Tarun has also created a mark for himself in the
Indian Bridal Wear segment. His clothing line features a lot of gilded
opulence through various embroidery techniques and fabrics that resonate
with the evolving tastes of his clientele.

Rohit Bal

⮚ Rohit Bal is a famous Indian fashion designer who is best known for his
use of traditional Indian motifs like the Lotus, Peacock etc., in his
clothing. Rohit was born in Kashmir in 1961 and started his career in
1986 in New Delhi with Men’s wear segment. Soon he expanded his
collections to women’s wear and accessories like eyewear, bags etc.
Rohit is renowned for using rich and opulent fabrics like brocades, velvet
etc. which lend grandeur to the outfit.

⮚ His international clientele includes popular celebrities like Cindy

Crawford, Pamela Anderson and Uma Thurman, who regularly sport his
designs on the red carpets. Rohit also won several awards the ‘Designer
of the Year’ in 2001 and 2006 and winning the Lakme Grand Finale
Designer in 2012.

Wendell Rodricks
⮚ Wendell Rodricks (28 May 1960 – 12 February 2020) was an Indian
fashion designer and author based in the Indian state of Goa. He was also
an activist for social causes, environment and gay rights. In 2014, the
Government of India conferred upon him its fourth-highest civilian
award, the Padma Shri. Rodricks began his career in fashion by designing
for Garden Vareli, Lakmé Cosmetics and DeBeers. When in Paris with
his first portfolio in hand, he was advised to put "your country in your
clothes". He launched his own label in 1989 with his first show held at
the Regal Room of the Oberoi Hotel, Mumbai.

JJ Valaya
⮚ JJ Valaya (born 8 October 1967) is an Indian fashion designer and
couturier from New Delhi, India. He founded the House of Valaya, a
luxury fashion and lifestyle house in 1992, along with his brother TJ
Singh. A founding member of Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI)
and the first global brand ambassador of Crystal giant Swarovski. He has
been designing for over 20 years. As a fine art photographer, he released
his first book, Decoded Paradox in 2011. In the same year, he also closed
the day one of the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) winter/festive 2011
where he debuted a fashion collection inspired by photography.

Unit:3
Fashion Products and Promotion
⮚ The fashion industry and new product development; product mix and
range planning. Fashion and Seasons. Fashion Promotion – Fashion
Communication; Fashion Advertising and Publicity; Personal Selling –
importance and steps involved; Fashion Shows – types and steps involved
in organizing a show; Sales promotion methods /strategies.

⮚ Fashion sales promotional programme for apparel marketing,

communication in prop motion, Personal selling, point of purchase.
Fashion Advertising and preparation of advertising for apparel market ,
Advertising media used in apparel market, Apparel & Textile Trade
shows and fairs .Advertising department and advertising agencies –
structure and functions . Advertising Budget.

AIMS AND OBJECTIVES

⮚ We here discuss about in general instructions on fashion advertising,
methods used in fashion marketing industry, benefits and limitations of
advertising agencies, their merits and demerits, the advertising
department, structure and function of advertising agencies and preparing
budget for advertisement. After going through the unit, it will be easy to
understanding the fashion advertising
INTRODUCTION
⮚ The present era is of mass production and mass distribution. Similar
products are taken to the market. This involves stiff competition amongst
the producers. Many firms adopt the vigorous means to maintain their
existence in the market, as there are many substitutes in the market.
⮚ This tendency is a struggle for the producers for their survival in the
modern business world. In the present business world, suitable publicity
is done through advertising, which is adopted by commercial and
industrial undertakings and almost all types of concerns. Therefore
advertisement is a method of publicity. Advertisement has the prominent
place among the techniques of mass education and persuasion on the
public. It is not a modern origin. It has been used from immemorial
period.
 ⮚ Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in purchasing. It also
helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence quick selling is
possible which leads to more production at less cost. The relation
between wholesalers and retailers is improved through advertising.
Advertising introduces new products, stimulates markets regarding the
existing product and repeated sales. Thus advertising is advantageous to
the following groups of people.
FASHION ADVERTISING
⮚ Above the line, paid-for advertising in fashion is relatively low in
comparison with other goods (e.g. FMCGs – fast moving consumer
goods), which probably reflects the fact that less money is spent by
consumers on fashion than on food, transport, leisure, fuel, housing, etc.
⮚ Fashion companies have traditionally relied on their stores, i.e. their
physical presence in the market place, being a showcase for their
products; however, as competition has increased this marketing tool (the
store itself) has not had as much impact. If the consumer does not see or
visit your store because they think it is not the store for them, then
presence alone is not enough. Fashion stores therefore advertise in order
to stand out from very similar stores carrying similar merchandise.
Television advertising
⮚ This is the most expensive method of advertising because it reaches the
highest number of people. However, for fashion retailers it is not always
cost effective as the fashion consumer or the target market may not see
the advert, it may be lost among other non fashion adverts and it cannot
always show the full range of items available in, for example, a short
three-minute commercial. Television advertising is, however, a useful
medium for brand image creation. For many fashion companies targeting
specific programs which are likely to be watched by the target may give
some precision. MTV (Music Television), which is now available on a
global basis, gives an opportunity for the promotion of international
brands such as Levi‘s and Nike.

Magazine advertising

⮚ Advertising in magazines is by far the most effective method of above the

line (paid- for) advertising as it can finely tuned to the target market of
 the magazine. Magazines provide media packs, which outline their target
market and pricing strategy. For example, Vogue is renowned as a style
bible all over the world and has been very clearly defined target market:

⮚ To be in Vogue is to be in fashion‘. The media pack given demographic

details on the age profile social classification, income level and education
of its core readership, and a lifestyle profile is provided for their potential
advertisers. The Vogue reader ‗is style conscious… Enjoys an effluent,
active lifestyle‘, dining out, pursuing cultural activities, taking frequent
holidays and, of course, shopping at up market stores, spending on
clothes.

⮚ In addition, there are very specific comparisons with other magazines and
instructions and costs associated with advertising in the publication.
There is also an offer to bring advertisers together with complementary
products to share the costs of a Vogue promotion; this is co-operative
advertising and can be useful for advertisers who cannot afford the full
cost (sourced from the Vogue Media Pack).

⮚ A fashion brand/retailer can be fairly confident when advertising in

specific magazines that they can match their target market with the
magazine target market and therefore not waste the advertising budget.

PREPARATION OF ADVERTISING FOR APPAREL MARKET

⮚ Theme is the subject matter of advertisement. A theme represents a
particular view- point or a central idea with which the message is
conveyed to the public. An advertisement copy should bridge the gap
between the advertiser and the readers, if it is to be effective. To achieve
 this, the advertisement has to provide the audience the information that is
of interest to them.
⮚ The two features of ―message‖ are ―message structure‖
and ―message ap eal.‖ Message structure contains details (selling
points) of the products and consumers‘ needs and benefits.
⮚ A two-sided argument is effective in winning over an audience. The
―message appeal‖ is the feature which brings about attitude change
on the part of audience. The message appeals can be grouped broadly
into two categories;
The product-oriented appeals:
⮚ They may emphasis the physical features or the functions of the product
or may attempt a comparison of the product with the other brands
available in the market
⮚ The consumer-oriented appeals:
⮚ They on the other hand, are directed at the audience‘s attitude, faiths and
beliefs. It may emphasis the attitudinal and behavioral patterns of the
audience, the life styles of the audience or their social image. In actual
practice, messages quite often combine the product appeal and consumer
appeal. The theme has an arresting quality, i.e., it is capable of capturing
attention of the people. In selecting a theme, all necessary information
about consumers and about the product to be advertised must be collected
with proper details.
⮚ In collecting the details about consumers, information about the attitude
and aspiration of genuine prospect for the product should be particularly
known. Information about the product should include, characteristics of
the product, benefits expected to the consumers and over the rival‘s
products. Themes may change as the market conditions change. The
theme or appeal points out the most important reason or driving force to
the purchase of a certain product or service. It is an appeal based on
human emotion, feelings, sentiments, needs, desire etc.
⮚ We have the following common appeals with which advertising message
can be effectively communicated, in brief:
● The Theme of Beauty
● The Theme of Health
● The Theme of Pride
● The Theme of Comfort
● The Theme of Economy
 ●The Theme of Fear
●The Theme of Emulation
●The Theme of Distinction
●The Theme of Affection
●The Theme of Patriotism
⮚In modern times, advertising is used by men in various walks of life.
Littlefield and Kirkpatrick observe that:
⮚ Advertising is not a game, for here when advertising is done properly and
profitably, both buyer and seller benefit.
⮚ Advertising is not a toy, for advertising funds come from sales volume
and, therefore efforts are made to increase sales.
⮚ Advertising is not a racket, only few advertisements are designed to
deceive, majority are based on honesty.
⮚ Advertising is not an exact science, for the sales are affected by number
of factors such as competitors decisions, manufacturers‘ promotional
activities, change in price, personnel or policies etc. and these factors
cannot be controlled as a physical scientist may control the experiments.
ADVERTISING MEDIA USED IN APPAREL MARKET
⮚ Medium is a means through which the advertising message is conveyed
to the consumers. The proper selection of the medium, by which the
message is to be conveyed, must achieve the pre-determined goals. In
brief, the following facts, which affect the media, may be considered:
⮚ Should the advertisement reach and influence the largest portion of the
people?
⮚ Should it be possible to influence the pre-determined group of buyers?
⮚ Should it give a wide coverage at less cost?

There are some important factors, which are also to be considered:

The characteristics of the product and its demand
⮚ Fund available for advertising.
⮚ Nature of the market i.e., different segments.
⮚ The nature and extent of competition prevailing.
⮚ Medium to be adopted
⮚ Coverage of the medium.
⮚ The product‘s nature
⮚ The position of the product in the market.
⮚ Size of the advertisement.
 ⮚ The probable cost of advertising.
⮚ The media to be adopted, along with merits and demerits are discussed in
detail below
Indoor Advertising
o Press Media
o Newspaper
(a). Magazine (b). Radio
(c). Television (d). Film
Outdoor Advertising
(a) Mural (posters), (b) Advertising board, (c) Vehicular, (d) Painted display, (e)
Traveling display, (f) Electric display, (g) Sky advertising, (h) Sandwich-man,
(i) Handbills (leaflets).
Direct Advertising
(a) Sales letters, (b) Circular letters, (c) Booklets and catalogues, (d) Folders, (e)
Package inserts & f) Store publications
Promotional Advertising
(a) Window display (b) Interior display (c) Show-rooms (d) Exhibitions.

1.3.1. Indoor Advertising

⮚ When advertising is made through newspapers, magazines, radio, T.V.
Programmers or cinema programmed in Video etc., so that people can get
the message at home, it is known as Indoor advertisement. People read or
listen to the advertisement when they are in door.
⮚ People can be benefited by indoor advertising as they can read the
newspapers or see television programmed when they are having leisure
time. Indoor advertising can be studied under the following headings.
Press Media:
⮚ Advertisement in newspapers, magazines, journals etc., can be called as
press advertising. It is the most popular and widely used means of
advertising. It is the most economical media of advertisement. Growth of
 literacy and development of press also pave the way for these press
media.
⮚ Following are the Characteristics of press media.
⮚ Wide coverage is possible.
⮚ Varieties of advertising are possible.
⮚ It is more effective for all purposes.
⮚ Reaching of the advertisements can be judged easily.
⮚ Detailed and informative sales programme is possible
⮚ Permanency and mobility of publication are possible.
⮚ It is economical
⮚ It is quick in action
⮚ It has a longer life (magazine, journal etc.)
Detailed address and telephone number can also be given
1. Newspapers
⮚ There is no doubt that the newspapers are the best and popular medium
for advertising. It reaches every nook and corner of the country. It is the
most powerful selling force. In India, there are many languages.
Newspapers are being published in 91 languages. According to statistics,
―Indian Express‖ daily newspaper is published from 10 places and prints
5,67,8801 copies, ―The times of India‖ is published from 3 places and
prints 5,30,565 copies daily and ―Malayalam Manorama‖ prints
5,27,657 copies. There is one paper,
⮚ ―Andha Bazaar‖ (Bengali) which prints 4, 02,491 copies in Calcutta
alone. Apart from this, newspapers are published in different languages.
Current news can be known and a large number of people go through
them. Different types of newspapers are existing. They are National
Dailies, Regional Dailies, Evening Dailies, and National Weeklies etc.
When the literacy rate is increasing, this medium can easily be adopted
for good result through advertising.

Merits
⮚ Newspapers are having a large demand and wide coverage.
⮚ The cost of newspaper is less when compared to its use.
⮚ Wide publicity is possible.
⮚ It contains interesting matter for everybody. ‗Business news‘ for men,
‗Ladies page‘ for women, ‗Fashion page‘ for youngster, ‗comics and
puzzles‘ for children etc. as such it assures readership.
 ⮚ Speedy preparation and publication of advertising is possible.
⮚ Newspapers are read daily and hence continuous publicity is possible
⮚ It makes quick results. The public response is quick. Advertisement given
by sellers reaches the public quickly and they act accordingly.
⮚ Regular and frequent advertisement is possible.
⮚ It is flexible i.e., number of pages and shape of the advertisement can also
be changed.
⮚ It is suitable for direct and indirect selling.
⮚ Lengthy matter for advertisement can be given
⮚ In local newspapers, preference is given to the advertisement of local
products
⮚ Effectiveness of advertisement can be estimated.
⮚ Selection of market is possible.
⮚ It is newsy apart from timely

Demerits
⮚ It is having the shortest life. ―Today‘s newspaper is tomorrow‘s waste
paper.‖
⮚ Frequent advertisement is required lest it should become ineffective.
⮚ Newspaper advertising is affected by the illiteracy of the public. It affects
the utility of newspapers also; the effectiveness is questionable.
⮚ Chances for display and demonstration are much rare.
⮚ People read newspapers in a hurry. Hence they do not take notice of the
advertisement. Hence advertisement becomes a waste.
2. Magazines and Journals
⮚ These are periodically published. They are published weekly, fortnightly
or monthly. Magazines are read leisurely. Magazines are published
according to the tastes or liking of the public. There are different types of
magazines.
⮚ General Magazines: General Magazines are read in easy-chairs. There is
generally a lengthy advertisement. The standard of reproduction is also in
 a better way. They give more interesting and a longer duration. E.g.,
illustrated weekly, Blitz etc.
⮚ Specialists Magazines: They are technical journals and professional
journals. Technicians read technical journals, Doctors, lawyers,
accountants etc., read professional journals. There are special magazines
for industry, banking, politics, religion, agriculture, insurance, transport
literature etc. Special magazines for women and children are also
available.
⮚ Special Issues: Diwali (or) Deepavali, Directory (Telephone Directory)
are also published which contain a large number of advertisements along
with articles, stories, special features etc. some magazines enjoy national
and international circulations.
Merits
⮚ It is having longer life than newspapers. Hence it is a great help to
advertisement.
⮚ It is having greater reference value of advertisement.
⮚ Colour advertisement attracts the people very much.
⮚ It s published for selected people. As such, it is having a high degree of
selectivity.
Ex. Famina is meant for women. Medical journals for doctors etc.

⮚ Cost is also comparatively low.

⮚ Advertisement in standard magazines creates a national image for the
product, e.g., Reader‘s Digest. Illustrated Weekly etc.
⮚ It satisfies the need of a particular class of people, say ―Commerce‖ for
business.
⮚ Magazines guarantee uniformity of coverage.

Demerits
⮚ It is less flexible
⮚ Limited circulation. It reaches only a limited section of people.
⮚ It is costly. High quality paper, colours and preparation cost of magazines
are high.
⮚ As such, the cost of advertising is also high.
 ⮚ Introduction of a new product is ineffective, as it takes time to advertise
the new products. Hence timely information of arrival of a product is not
possible.
⮚ Advance planning is needed to advertise in the magazine. As such
advance submission of advertisement is necessary.
⮚ It is not suitable for regional advertising. For example, Reader‘s Digest is
unsuitable for regional advertising.
3. Radio
⮚ Radio is the quickest medium of advertising when compared to
newspapers or magazines. Sound moves faster than other media. It is a
popular medium of advertising for a commercial firm. Radio makes its
appeal to the ear. Commercial radio broadcasting has become popular and
is widely used in all countries. It is also popular in India and the radio has
started playing an important role as one of the media of advertising. It
plays its role well, especially in rural areas where newspapers cannot
reach. The maximum number of radio sets is in Tamil Nadu, followed by
Maharashtra, West Bengal, and Gujarat. Further, transistorized radio
brightens the scope of advertising.
Merits
⮚ Coverage and appeal are wide
⮚ It is the best means for illiterate people.
⮚ Spoken words are more effective than written words.
⮚ It is flexible and timely.
⮚ It adds to the prestige of the advertiser.
⮚ Spot programs can be arranged.
Demerits
⮚ It is quite costly
⮚ Only limited time will be allowed.
⮚ In many cases, listeners may be irritated with the commercial
advertisements.
⮚ The effectiveness of advertising cannot be measured.
4. Television
⮚ It is of recent origin. It is more popular in advanced countries especially
in the U.S.A. In Delhi the first television centre was set up in 1962,
followed by Bombay, Calcutta, Lucknow, Madras etc. Television
advertising is the latest medium of mass communication and is widely
 used for advertisement. It is an audio-visual medium, because one can see
and hear. The maximum numbers of television sets are in Maharashtra
followed by Delhi.
Merits
⮚ It appeals to the eye and the ear
⮚ People are impressed by pictorial presentation
⮚ Interest is further boosted by introducing color televisions.
⮚ It has the characteristics of a salesman
Demerits
⮚ It is an expensive medium
⮚ The impact of advertising cannot be measured
⮚ It is suitable only for large firms
5. Film
⮚ The effects of television medium and film medium are the same. Film
advertising is also advantageously used by advertiser. Cinema is an
audio-visual medium of communication and offers opportunities to
advertisers for screening commercial films and slides. In India, there are
about 7000 cinema houses and 3,500 touring cinemas (approximate).
⮚ The maximum number of cinema houses is in Andhra Pradesh, followed
by Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh and Kerala. The maximum
number of touring cinemas is in Tamil Nadu, followed by Andhra
Pradesh and Kerala. For almost all consumer goods manufacturers are
advantageously using this medium.
Merits
⮚ It can create a good impact on the audience.
⮚ It covers all classes of people-poor, middle and rich.
⮚ Explanation and demonstration are possible
⮚ It has a wide appeal.
Demerits
⮚ Producing a film is costly
⮚ Effectiveness cannot be measured.
⮚ The co-operation of theatre owners is essential.
⮚ The audience becomes irritated, where more such advertising films are
shown.
⮚ Only cine goers can be covered.
Outdoor Advertising
⮚ Outdoor advertising passes the message to those people who are moving
audience. Generally almost all the people go out on some purpose or
other-office, walk, sightseeing, journey, park visit etc. This outdoor
advertising has the best effects of advertising.
Mural Advertising (Posters):
⮚ At present this is a common form of advertising. The posters are made in
attractive colours in brief and printed. The poster is a sheet of paper. The
matter is depicted on it. Then the prepared posters are pasted on walls or
boards. Film showers use this medium for advertising and the posters are
pasted in such a manner that they are projected to the people at bus stand,
railway station, marketplace, parks, libraries, and crowded areas. The cost
is less.
⮚ It is flexible. It has a short life, because in cities, posters pasted in the
morning, may disappear in the evening by pasting new papers on them. In
certain places like cities, the space has to be hired for pasting posters.
Advertising Boards:
⮚ These are also posters, but have better status than ordinary posters. The
boards are fixed at the areas where people frequently assemble. Such
boards are fixed at decent and neat places. They appear more attractive
than posters.
Vehicular Advertising:
⮚ This moving advertisement finds place on vehicles-buses, trains etc. The
vehicle passes through many place and many people happen to see it.
⮚ Painted display:
⮚ It is an artist‘s work. This display is large in size. It is visible from a
distance. It finds place at crossings, compound walls or erected structures
built of poles or pillars.
Travelling Display:
⮚ These are the advertisements as posters, small in size, written beautifully
and placed inside trains, buses, tramcars, vans etc. The traveling people,
in these vehicles, repeatedly notice it and keep it in their memory.
Electric Display:
⮚ Electric display is more attractive. It is popular now-a-days. The beauty
and attractiveness depend upon the skill of electrical engineers. Another
method is that of running bulbs strap and it looks like moving. Such
 arrangements are common in big cities. During night time or in dark
background, it is more bright and alluring. It is costly.

Sky Advertising:
⮚ Sky advertising and sky writing have become popular. Big balloons with
message written on them or attached to them are allowed to float in the
air. Big kites containing advertisement may be floated in the open air.
Sky writing is a kind of advertising played by the pilot, through aero
plane, either by forming smoke or by illumination. Karnataka State
Lottery Agencies have adopted big balloons for the sake of publicity. The
inscription or writing on the balloon will speak about the products.
Almost all the circus companies use the high powered revolving search
lights to attract the attention of the public. All these types of
advertisements can be seen from a long distance.

Sandwich-men:
⮚ Sandwich-men are hired by the advertisers. They move or walk down
through busy roads and streets. They dress in a peculiar way with fancy
clothes. They carry posters of the product of the advertisers. They utter
slogans. They create certain type of musical sounds. This sort of
advertisement has short life, but is effective. Cinema theatres usually
adopt this method of publicity.
Handbills (Leaflets):
⮚ Handbills are common and too cheap. Handbills, which are in the form of
leaflets, are distributed among the people through hired men. Sometimes,
music bands are also played along with distribution of leaflets. Only
interested persons may go through the handbills. The handbill distributor
distributes copies of the handbill to all, who pass nearby.
⮚ An uninterested person receives it by one hand and throws it away by the
other hand. This type of advertising is suitable for small business people.
Let us discuss the merits and demerits of this advertising.
Merits
 ⮚ This is the best for local advertising; it has the widest appeal.
⮚ It speaks to everyone.
⮚ It engages few seconds of people‘s time and need no effort.
⮚ It always attracts the viewers, because of its style and colourful
appearance.
⮚ Its effect is permanent.
⮚ It indirectly beautifies the place. With outdoor advertising, crowded
places like Bombay, Calcutta, Delhi, Madras etc., appear beautiful to look
on, and at the same time the unpleasant sights are covered up.
⮚ It is flexible.
⮚ It is a low cost medium.

Demerits
⮚ It has less advantage, compared to other media.
⮚ It reduces its value because of brevity.
⮚ The effect of prospects cannot be measured.
⮚ It can be used only as a supplementary type of advertising.

Direct Advertising
⮚ The object of direct advertising is to create a direct contact with the
customers. The advertiser can keep a close touch with the customers or
the public, who are supposed to have interest in his product. He contacts
them and keeps a close touch with through mail advertising. It is a
common method. It is also known as direct mail advertising.
Characteristics of Direct Advertising
⮚ Through direct advertising, more or less a personal contact can be
maintained.
⮚ There is a written form of communication i.e., letter.
⮚ Contacts are through post.
Merits
⮚ A personal relationship with the customers can be maintained.
⮚ Detailed information can be conveyed.
⮚ Effectiveness of this system can be measured.
⮚ This system is elastic; addition or deletion is possible.
⮚ Privacy can be maintained.
⮚ It is highly selective; i.e., sending the letters to those, whom the
advertiser selects.
 ⮚ It is cheaper.
Demerits
⮚ In drafting mail, specialized skill is needed.
⮚ It is difficult to maintain an up-to-date mailing list.
⮚ The success depends upon the reaching of the recipient.
⮚ In many cases, it fetches no attention of the receiver.
Sales Letters:
⮚ Sales letters are persuasive in nature. Many firms think every letter that
goes out from the firm is a sales letter, because every business letter aims
at an opportunity to sell the firm‘s product or earn goodwill for the firm.
To a certain extent, the salesman is substituted by the sales letters because
the purpose of salesman and sales letters is the same, i.e., push up the
sales. Drafting a sales letter is in the form of advertising, to create an
interest in the mind of the reader. Sales letters are cheaper and
convenient.

a. Purpose of Sales Letter

To confer faith in the product.
To get an enquiry letter from the reader.
To create an interest in the recipient‘s mind.
To create sales and goodwill.
Circulars:
⮚ It carries communication to a number of addresses. The circular letter
contains information about the products. It is generally cyclostyled or is
in the printed form. It carries less attention than the sales letter. The
merits and demerits are similar to sales letters.
Booklets and Catalogues:
⮚ These contain more particulars of the product and the firm. Booklets are
in the form of a small book. Catalogue contains more information than a
booklet. Fundamentally both are similar. Catalogue will be more
attractive and it contains illustration of products with details and price
lists.
Folders:
⮚ These are letters or cards containing details of the products. They contain
illustration. Folders can be sent without envelop. The folders can be
folded conveniently, as they are made of thick paper. These are generally
 adopted by publishers, medical firms, industrialists etc. The folders must
be attractive.
Package Inserts:
⮚ This is a system through which leaflets about the products are inserted in
the packets of products. The package insert may contain details of the
same product or other products of the same firm. Thus, it is an
advertisement.
Store Publication:
⮚ This is also known as ‗house organs‘. Certain firms may publish
periodicals or magazines which contain information about the
development of the firm. These will be distributed to wholesalers,
retailers etc., free of cost. This will also explain the product in detail.

Promotional Advertising
⮚ The object of promotional advertising is to increase the sales. These are
also known as‗display advertising‘. By this, we mean that the products
are systematically kept in a place so as to attract the attention and notice
of the lookers. It demonstrates the products. The following are the
important types.
Window Display (outside display):
⮚ Window display is the medium used to attract the public by creating an
interest in
⮚ them. The products dealt in by the firm are placed at the front of the firm,
trying to create an arousing interest in the minds of them. A good
arranged system of window display naturally increases the sales. It gives
a memorizing attitude to the public, even if one is not entering the shop at
the sight of the display.
⮚ How should a window display be?
⮚ It must be in a suitable position.
⮚ The window should not be crowded with items.
⮚ Good light and pleasing colours are essential.
⮚ Articles in display must be changed often.
⮚ It must create attention, attraction, interest, desire and action.
 ⮚ The price tag should be attached to products.
⮚ It must always be kept clean and neat.
Merits
⮚ It has ―at the point of purchase‖ effect.
⮚ It attracts the onlookers.
⮚ It is used as an indicator of status to the firm.
Interior Display:
● In large-scale organizations, they use this type of display.
● Glass-door cupboards, sunglass show-cases are used for internal display.
Window display is arranged outside, but interior display is inside the
shop. The related articles are displayed within easy reach. It is easy for
the buyers to get the products needed by them.

Merits
⮚ Purchasing is made easier.
⮚ It facilitates to sell allied products.
⮚ The whole shop becomes attractive.
⮚ It is flexible.
Show-room:
⮚ Consumers always insist on prior inspection of the products, which they
aim to purchase. Therefore sellers must provide facility for their
inspection. Buyers are not satisfied with mere publicity. They want to
have a close look at the product. In a show-room, not only the needed
products are kept, but different products also. And this creates an inward
interest on other products, when one makes a purchase of the needed
item. In the show-room, salesmen are there to explain about the
prospects. It must be highly decorated and must have good lighting
arrangement with good atmosphere. For instance, textile mills, and firms
producing furniture, refrigerators, television sets, radio sets and other
luxurious items must have generally show-rooms.
Merits
⮚ The show-room appears as a sales centre.
⮚ Consumers can study the product and its proper functions as well as
precautions.
Exhibition:
⮚ It is known to everyone. This is also known as trade shows. The idea
behind the exhibition is to promote sales of the goods exhibited. All big
or small, manufacturers reserve stalls in the exhibition area to exhibit
their products. Exhibitions are popular and it is the place where
competitors meet. They are held on local, national or international level
Merits
⮚ Variety of products display can be witnessed.
⮚ It is always interesting to the public.
⮚ It is a ready-made market.
⮚ When selecting a medium for advertising, the following should be
considered.

Objective of advertising.
● The financial ability of the producer.
● The nature and extent of competition.
● The prospective buyers.
● The class of buyers (caste, age, sex, etc.)
● Whereabouts of his customers.
● Nature of message.
● Medium to be adopted.
● The cost of medium.
● Circulation of the medium.
ADVANTAGES OF ADVERTISING
⮚ Advertising is considered multi-dimensional. It helps in a number of
marketing activities. It is a technique of sales promotion. Sales volume is
increased by advertising. It helps and supports the salesman in selling the
products. Consumer‘s knowledge about the product is increased by
advertising. Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in
purchasing. It also helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence
quick selling is possible which leads to more production at less cost. The
relation between wholesalers and retailers is improved through
advertising. Advertising introduces new products, stimulates markets
regarding the existing product and repeated sales. Thus advertising is
advantageous to the following groups of people.
Advantages to Manufacturers

⮚ It Increases the Sales Volume: Advertising increases the sales volume

of the product. Hence mass production is possible. This leads to reduction
in the cost of production.
⮚ It Increases the Net Profit: It increases the net profit by a higher
turnover of sales. It leads to higher volume of production. Hence average
cost of production is less, and the profit will increase.
⮚ It Stabilizes the Sales Volume: Stabilization of sales volume is possible
through advertising by the process of repetition. Regular and frequent
advertising leads to regular flow of sales. It gives the name, location,
products and services of the selling houses to the public often. During
slump period, advertising tends to ensure a permanent class of customers
to buy the product.
⮚ It Controls Product Price: Control of wholesale and retail price is
possible by means of advertisement. The needy retailers are overcharged
by some greedy wholesalers. The retailers charge higher prices for the
products. Hence the consumers do not want to buy such products. This
will lead to reduction in sales. Hence manufacturers print on the cover or
announce the retail price of the product.
⮚ It Helps in Opening New Market: Advertising is helpful in opening or
creating new markets. It helps to get leadership in the market It helps the
manufacturers to take decision whether to expand the market share or not.
It also helps them to sell new products or improved variety of products.
⮚ It Maintains the Existing Market: Maintenance of existing market is
essential for the success of a concern. Hence manufacturers, who look
ahead, always have an eye on the future business. As such, by advertising
he is very tactful to hold up the present market and to expand the market.
⮚ It Creates Reputation: Advertising increases the reputation of the
manufacturers in the public. It builds the image of the product and
goodwill of the manufacturers. It protects the manufacturers from
aggressive selling method adopted by his competitors. It creates an image
in the minds of the customer about his brand.
 ⮚ It Secures More Dealers: Advertising secures more dealers to buy the
products. Due to the goodwill earned from the public, dealers are
interested in buying such a product.
⮚ It Is Less Expensive: Advertising is considered to be less expensive.
With a smaller amount of money, advertising reaches many people, and
more people will buy the product.
⮚ Wide Information: Wider information of product is possible through
advertisement. Any change in quality or price can be made known by the
manufacturers to the customers as and when it is necessary in a quick
manner.
⮚ Manufacturers can change the habits and prejudices of customers by
tactful

⮚ advertising Thus; it helps in establishing and controlling the buyer habits

of the customers.

Advantages to Salesman
⮚ Creates a Background: Salesmen‘s mastery and skill satisfy the
customers. A well trained, active tactful salesman‘s job makes easy
distribution work. The advertisement, which is the background, will help
the salesmen very much. Customers know about the product through
advertisement. When salesman contacts them with the product, customers
buy the product without any hesitation.
⮚ Curtails the Burden of the Salesman’s Job: If the advertising is done
by the manufacturer, the work of salesman is reduced. Otherwise he has
to advertise about the product and then try to sell the product. Salesman‘s
function is supported and supplemented by advertisement. Selling and
advertising are ‗cup and saucer‘ or ‗key and lock‘ words. Salesmen‘s
work is made easier and more encouraging by advertisement.
⮚ Least Effort: Advertised product can be sold very easily. Salesman‘s
time is saved and he can contact more customers in a shorter period. He
can meet many customers with the least effort.
⮚ Consumer’s Needs Can Be Studied: A salesman‘s confidence is
increased through advertising by educating and stimulating the
consumers. Customer‘s demand and needs are studied by him correctly.
The manufacturers are informed of this. They will supply the products
 according to the demand of the customers and thus equalize the demand
and supply of their products.
⮚ Creates Enthusiasm: Advertising reduces salesman‘s job. He can do his
job in a better way to sell the products, crossing the fixed quota. Hence it
creates enthusiasm and confidence in him.

Advantages to Wholesalers and Retailers

⮚ Creates Easy Sales: Advertisement informs consumers about the quality
of the product. Hence they know about the product. Sale of that product is
easy for the wholesalers and retailers.
⮚ Increases the Turnover: Advertising helps quick sale of the product which
in turn increases the rate of turnover of the product. Thus, there is no
question of old stocks. It reduces the expenses on overhead charges.
⮚ Attracts More Customers: Advertising gives detailed information about
the product and the availability of the product in a particular shop. As
such, it attracts more customers in that particular shop.
⮚ Increases the Prestige of the Store: Customers know about the store
through advertising. The goodwill or reputation earned by the
manufacturer is also shared by the selling shops. Thus the prestige of the
firm increases.
⮚ Publicity: In advertisement, product publicity and wholesale or retail
shop publicity are done simultaneously. Thus, the retailers are also known
to the public and thereby increase their sales too.
⮚ Economic Selling: Advertising ensures more economic selling.

Advantages to the Customers.

⮚ Easy Purchasing: advertising helps customers in easy purchasing of the
products. Advertisement gives useful information about the
reasonableness of the price and the quality of product. There are many
tables for headache, like Anacin, aspro, coldarine etc. A good advertising
can help in buying the best one.
⮚ Connecting Link: Advertising is the connecting link between the
manufacturer and the customers. It eliminates the middlemen. There is no
profit for the middlemen. Hence the price is low.
⮚ Fair: It helps the customers to get product at fair price.
 ⮚ Saves time: It helps customers by giving information about the
availability of the product, i.e., where and when. The customers can select
the best product in a particular shop. Thus it reduces their shopping time.
⮚ Best Quality Product: Advertisement generally stands for a quality
product. Manufacturers advertise their product only for selling. If the
product is not good, customers will switch on to other products (brand).
Manufacturers maintain their quality to retain the market. As such, it is
advantageous to customers. Benefits of standardization are assured to the
customers by advertising.
⮚ Educates the Customer: The aim of the advertising is to educate the
customers about the introduction of a new product mentioning its
different uses. It gives information to the customers about the availability
of goods and services in the market. The customers come to know about
these things and purchase the products according to their standard. Thus
the standard of living of the customers increases. The comparative type of
advertisement of different products and substitutes will enable the public
to understand more about a product or services.
⮚ Mail Order Business: Advertising helps the people to get the products
directly from the producers through mail order business. There are places,
where the products are unavailable- villages, rural areas. Advertising
helps them to get the products through post. Thus it improves the social
welfare.

Advantages to Community
⮚ Increases Employment Opportunities: Advertising generates
employment opportunities directly and indirectly. Direct employment
opportunities in advertising are artists, painters, singers, musicians,
writers, photographers, pressmen, managing agencies etc. it creates mass
sales, followed by mass production which in turn opens the door for more
employment indirectly.
⮚ Uplifts the Standard of Living: Advertising is an effective tool which
raises the standard of living of the people of advanced countries. The
standard of living is measured by the amount of national income and its
distribution and the consumption pattern.
⮚ Advertising gives stimulus to the consumers to buy new variety of
products. It leads to large-scale production of more varieties of products
 followed by mass consumption. Thus advertising creates demand for
standardized products.
⮚ Educative Value: Advertising educates the members of the community
in the various uses of products. As such, people know the varieties of
products and their availability in the market and uses and benefits. Thus it
educates the people. People become intelligent buyers. They become
economic buyers. They understand the merits and demerits of products
they come across.
⮚ Helps Press: Advertising gives more income to the press. We cannot buy
newspapers at a cheaper rate without advertisement. Commercial
advertisement and broadcasting are undertaken by radios television,
newspapers etc. These lead to the cheaper availability of newspapers.
⮚ We can say that advertising is a boon to the producer and consumer. It is
very important for modern trade and commerce. It stabilizes the sales
volume and also the national income. It encourages large-scale
production and increasing the profit. It reduces unemployment.
LIMITATIONS OF ADVERTISING
⮚ There are a number of advantages of advertising; yet there are some
drawbacks too. Several criticisms and objections are put forth against
advertising. Kenneth A. Longman, in his book ‗Advertising‘ has
mentioned the following charges against advertising:
⮚ Advertising sells people things they neither need nor want.
⮚ People are not really influenced by advertising.
⮚ Advertising generates senseless proliferation of variety in goods and
services.
⮚ Advertising results in higher prices.
⮚ Advertising is false and misleading.
⮚ Most advertising is irrelevant.
⮚ Most advertising exhibits bad taste or sponsors it.
⮚ Advertising is too intrusive.
⮚ Advertising regulates discussions of public issues through its control of
the news media.
⮚ Its life is short.
⮚ It tends to create monopoly.
⮚ In many cases, the public are cheated.
 ▪ Apart from those mentioned above, economic, social and ethical
objections are leveled against advertising. They are.

A. Economic Objection
⮚ Leads to Higher Price: Large-scale production is possible taking into
account advertising, and the price will be very low. If advertising fails to
sell the product, then the price will be increased. Experience shows that
advertising increases the price since manufacturers spend a lot of money
on advertising, which increases the cost of production. But generally
advertising increases sales and mass production resulting in less cost of
production and reduction of unit cost.
⮚ It Forces People to Buy Things: People are forced to buy things by the
attraction of the advertisement. People do not need things like cars,
refrigerators etc. but advertising forces them to buy this product. Thus it
stimulates people to go in for things which they cannot afford. But it
multiplies the needs.
⮚ People Are Not Influenced By Advertising: Some criticize that people
are not influenced by advertising.
⮚ Creates Waste: Advertising is regarded as waste. When there is a change
in style or fashion, old things or half-used articles are not used any
further. New products are purchased. The manufacturer must be very
careful about this change. When there is a change in price, model, quality
etc. it will incur another big amount for the advertisements. It is
responsible for quick and premature changes in fashion and style. For
instance, a particular product can easily be used for a year. But
advertising shortens the life of the product through the publicity of the
latest arrivals. Thus creeps in immaturity of the product growth. This is
what happens in advanced resources multiplies.
⮚ It Exaggerates the Facts: Advertising exaggerates the real fact to the
consumers e.g.,
⮚ ―the best medicine for headache,‖ ―the finest pain reliever‖ etc. These
lead the consumer to buy that product even though it is of low quality or
may be ineffective. Use of superlative degree in product description is
also viewed by the readers in a negative way.
 ⮚ It is Fraud and Misleading: Advertising is an instrument of cheating in
many situations. A good advertiser can sell anything. Producers advertise
their products not with a view to serve the public, but with a view to
dispose of their products, which are really not needed to the customers.
They aim at earning profits by pushing out the dead stocks. For this, by
concealing the actual facts, the advertiser makes publicity with ―make to
believe‖ statements by using false statistics, tempered statements, false
claims, exaggerated ideas, false comparison, misrepresented opinions of
great people, false supported reports etc., without a base.
⮚ For instance, film stars‘ opinions with photos and signature generally
appear in many newspapers. Big political leaders‘ statements, with
signatures are ample now-a-days. Generally we may come across
statements like the following. A film star says, ―My secret in beauty lies
in X brand soap‖ Some big star says, ―I am dying for X brand
cigarettes.‖ ―Do you know how we can enjoy and relax with the X brand
drinks?‖ ―Our products are wonders of the world‖ etc. All these
statements have no background but the public are cheated and this boosts
the sale of dead and ineffective products.
⮚ Leads to Monopoly: Advertising is done by large firms. It prevents the
entry of small firms and new firms in the market. People buy a particular
brand. By taking advantages of this producers raise the price. By using
the advertising knife, they cut the necks of small or new firms. These lead
to monopoly.
Social Objection
⮚ The Press:The major income for the press comes from advertisement. It is
true that the cost of the newspapers is reduced. The advertising matters
are presented in such a way that advertisers are favoured, but the public
are not, so sometimes the public are affected adversely.

Ethical Objection
⮚ Cigarettes, brandy etc., are harmful to health. Advertising makes people
to buy these. It affects their health. The way in which they are advertised
is bad. The statements, poses of pictures etc., in many cases are offensive;
 they are vulgar and immoral. In many cases, advertising which excites
emotions, nude poses of sex, vulgar statement etc., affect the morale of
the younger generation and damage the ethical aims of a society.

ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT.
⮚ Every good company even if it utilizes the services of an advertising
agency has its own advertising department which do independent
advertising activities quite successfully.
⮚ The internal organization may adopt any of these patterns
⮚ It can be set up along advertising sub functions copy media, etc.
⮚ Individuals can be assigned to one of the product lines – appliances
automobiles, furniture garments, etc.
⮚ It can be by type of buyer or ensures – consumers, purchasing agents or
industrial user etc.
⮚ It can be geographic – foreign domestic etc.
1. Structure and Functions of advertising department
⮚ Determining the allocation of funds to be spent on advertising and sales
promotion programmer.
⮚ Budgetary control to control the procedures of spending the sum
budgeted and to adhere to the purposes and the limitations of budget
⮚ Co-ordination with the sales department as both is complimentary to each
other
⮚ Keeping in touch with the representatives of important media –
companies middleman consumer and commercial firm
⮚ Distribution of advertising materials among the customers.
⮚ Promotion and supervision of the sales promotional material
⮚ Merchandising advertising to fulfill consumer wants
⮚ Record keeping and supervising the accounting done for advertising
⮚ Check the advertising ordered by and for the company and approves
payment for it. The advertising manager is the key executive in this
department
ADVERTISING FUNCTION
Advertising function:
⮚ His responsibility is to determine advertising policy
⮚ To outline company‘s advertising strategy
⮚ To design Company advertising effort
⮚ He must indulge in creative
 ⮚ Managerial function
⮚ Administering the advertising department
Setting advertising goals.
⮚ Drafting advertising plans and making advertising budgets
⮚ Seeing that the company‘s top management has a correct and complete
understanding of advertising
⮚ Taking part in company management
⮚ General set-up of advertising department
⮚ Board of directors
⮚ General Manager (or) Managing Director
⮚ Clerical staff Record Sales promotion Display demo‘s Miscellaneous
packing dept publicity dept
⮚ Filling Statistics
⮚ Voucher Gift Scheme Sales literature estimates schedules
ADVERTISING AGENCY
⮚ Almost all good organizations have a separate department for advertising
activities and are known as advertising department. It is headed by an
advertising manager. It is not possible for all the organizations to
maintain a separate department. Moreover, the present era is a stage of
stiff competition in the field of marketing. And this invites specialized
hands to deal with the advertising campaign, which is becoming more
complex. Thus the advertising agency has come up. The advertising
agency is a service organization. It is a specialized unit in the field of
advertising. An advertising agency is a group of persons, who are experts
on various phases of advertising and related marketing areas. Such
agencies are slowly progressing in India, where as such agencies in
advertising are well-developed in the U.S.A.
⮚ The function of advertising agency is to sell goods and services to their
clients, who have messages to be conveyed to the public. They are
specialists who give expert assistance to their clients. An advertising
agency is an independent concern. It acts as an agent or consultant for the
advertiser. In early periods, they sold spaces to an advertiser and arranged
for the publication in the newspaper on behalf of the advertiser. Now
there are various existing and new style of advertising has come up. The
role of advertising agency has been upgraded. Thus, the advertising
agency performs the following useful services.
⮚ They develop attractive and cheaper ideas for advertising.
 ⮚ The specialized agency, which has all facilities, such as artists, painters,
photographers, expert personnel etc., can offer the best advantageous
services to the advertisers.
⮚ They possess a closer relation with media owners and this facilitates in
obtaining space and timely presentation at a competitive rate.
⮚ The burden of advertiser is undertaken by them, so that they are freed and
can attend to other jobs.
⮚ The expenditure met by the advertiser for advertising can be turned into
productive expenditure with the help of agencies.
⮚ Generally advertiser fined difficulty in the preparation of advertisement
copy. Often they make wrong copy. But the agency prepares the copy
quickly and correctly. This relieves the burden of advertiser.
⮚ The agency also does the work of special packing, designing, sales
training, research, and test marketing etc., for their clients.
⮚ Thus Advertising Agency:
⮚ It‘s a business organization established to render advertising services to
its clients and customers.
⮚ It has been defined as ―A group of advertising specialist plus marketing,
merchandising, communication and allied personal‖
⮚ It‘s a creative business [(i.e.) To prepare advertisements
⮚ A service business.
⮚ A profitable business.

SELECTION OF AN ADVERTISING AGENCY

⮚ The advertiser has to consider certain factors while selecting an
advertising agency.
They are:
⮚ The agency to be selected should have experience and must be peculiar to
the business of the advertiser.
⮚ The line of products usually accepted by the agency is to be considered.
⮚ The available facilities and equipments with them are to be ascertained.
⮚ The financial soundness of the agency is to be checked.
⮚ Goodwill and market reputation are earned through advertising.
⮚ ―Time is money,‖ especially to business people. Bringing the
advertisement in time is an important factor.
⮚ Basis of remuneration for the work is to be considered. Advantages of
services of advertising agency, in brief are:
 ⮚ Advertiser is freed.
⮚ Benefit of economy goes to the advertiser.
⮚ The work is quick and satisfactory.
⮚ Advertising looks more attractive.
⮚ Market research is available at cheap rate.
⮚ It promotes sales.
⮚ Advantageous utilization of fund is possible.
STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS OF ADVERTISING AGENCY:
⮚ It develops new business by defining or describing the type of client the
agency wants.
⮚ It reduces the hazards of advertising.
⮚ It advocates the idea of advertising.
⮚ It creator the advertising manager which are in essential element which
media with to sell.
⮚ It simplifies the mediums credit operations and reduces the cost of their
operations.
⮚ It carries the cost of credit losses.
⮚ It simplifies the mechanical preparation of advertising and reducer the
medium cost.
⮚ The main work of agency is to create, prepare and place advertising for
the promotional objectives.
INTEREST OF ADVERTISING AGENCY
Consumer matters - Premium
▪ Contest premiums, sampling demonstrations, coupons, consumer
education, consumer services.
Marketing matters
▪ Product and package development, product identification, labels, pricing,
channels, competitors, activities, marketing trends.
Dealers Matters
▪ Direct mail to middlemen point of purchase advertising retail promotions,
advertising port folio for retailers, catalogues, merchandising clients,
advertising to dealers.

Personal selling matters

▪ Trade shows, displays, exhibition salesmen port folios, sales training,
stimulation sales, meetings, sales literature, merchandising client, and to
clients salesmen.
Trade Shows
▪ Definition:An exhibition for companies in a specific industry to showcase
and demonstrate their new products and services. Generally trade shows
are not open to the public and can only be attended by company
representatives and members of the press. Also, an exhibition of
businesses offering franchises and/or business opportunity packages for
sale.
▪ Trade shows are sponsored by trade associations for specific industries,
and there are thousands of associations running shows every year.
Generally trade shows aren't open to the public and can only be attended
by company representatives and members of the press. To find an
appropriate association for the industry you're interested in, look through
the Encyclopedia of Associations published by Gale Research. You may
also want to check magazines and newsletters such as Tradeshow Week
or go through the Tradeshow Week Data Book. These publications
should be available at your local library.
ADVERTISING BUDGET
⮚ Having determined the advertising objectives, the next important
managerial task is to determine the advertisement budget. The amount set
aside exclusively for advertising is known as advertising budget or
appropriation. The firm may be spending the amount in order to achieve
the sales goals. The question raised in this respect is now much amount
cans a producer or manufacturer spends on advertising? The financial
manager has to tackle this problem. But it is a difficult task to be solved.
Generally every year, an estimate will be made to calculate the amount
for advertisement. There are different factors to be considered before
making out a budget for advertising. Mainly PLC stages have to be
looked upon. Here the emphasis is given to the basis or methods available
for determining the advertising budget or appropriation. They are briefly
discussed below:

Affordable Method:
⮚ Under this approach, a company, to determine the advertising
appropriation, is to find out what the company can afford. It can spend for
advertising as much as the funds permit. From the name itself it is clear
that the affordable amount set apart for advertising, is known as
 affordable method. It means that the advertising expenses may vary from
year to year.
⮚ Under this method the weakness may be
(1) The opportunities of advertising are overlooked
(2) It is difficult to plan long-term marketing development.
Percentage of Sales methods:
⮚ Here the budget amount is decided for advertising as a percentage of
sales, i.e., relationship between advertising expenses and sales revenue.
For instance, a company may allot Rs. 5,000 in which is 2% of the
preceding year‘s past or forecast or anticipated sales i.e., Rs. 2, 50,000.

Merits
⮚ The method is simple in calculation.
⮚ A clear relationship exists between sales and advertising expenses.
⮚ Advertisement wars can be avoided.

Demerits
⮚ Past figures may be incorrect for the future.
⮚ Declining sales reduce the advertising expenses and is not a dynamic
method. But, when sales decrease, advertising must be increased.
⮚ This system takes advertising as the result of sales. But it should be the
cause of sales.
Competitive Comparison Method:
⮚ A company sets its budget solely depending upon the basis of
competitor‘s expenditure. That is under this method, the advertising
appropriation is decided on the basis of spending for advertising by the
competitors. For this a company has to collect relevant data about
competitors. They will do simply what others have done.

Objective and Task Method:

⮚ This is also known as research-objective method. The amount is set aside
on the basis of objectives to be achieved and tasks to be involved. Under
 this method, three questions are involved: (1) what does the company
wants to accomplish? (2) What is necessary in order to accomplish this?
(3) What will it cost do this?
Merits
▪ Advertising objectives are achieved.
▪ It is flexible
▪ A clear advertisement programme can be drawn.
Demerits
▪ The cost of objectives may not be estimated exactly.
▪ It is more rational.
Return on Investment Method:
⮚ Here the advertising budget is considered as an investment, thereby
expecting a certain return in terms of profit. A clear study is made by
emphasizing the relation between advertisement and sales. Sales are
measured with advertising and without advertising. That is, the profit
obtained by advertising is compared with the cost of advertising
POINTS TO BE RMEMBER:
⮚ This tendency is a struggle for the producers for their survival in the
modern business
⮚ world. In the present business world, suitable publicity is done through
advertising, which is adopted by commercial and industrial undertakings
and almost all types of concerns.
⮚ Therefore advertisement is a method of publicity. Advertisement has the
prominent
⮚ place among the techniques of mass education and persuasion on the
public.
⮚ Advertising helps the consumer to save their time in purchasing. It also
helps the manufacturers to sell their products. Hence quick selling is
possible which leads to more production at less cost.
⮚ The relation between wholesalers and retailers is improved through
advertising. Advertising introduces new products, stimulates markets
regarding the existing product and repeated sales.
⮚ Indoor advertising includes press media, radio, television, film. Outdoor
advertising includes mural (posters), advertising board, vehicular, painted
display, traveling display, electric display, sky advertising, sandwich-
man, and handbills (leaflets).
 ⮚ Direct advertising includes sales letters, circular letters, booklets and
catalogues, folders, package inserts & store publications. Promotional
advertising includes window display, interior display, show-rooms and
exhibitions.
⮚ Advertising agency is a marketing agency that helps to promote
customers needs through advertising.
⮚ Thus advertising agency is a business organization established to render
advertising services to its clients and customers. It has been defined as
―A group of advertising specialist plus marketing, merchandising,
communication and alliedpersonal‖.
⮚ After the advertising objectives, the next important managerial task is to
determine the advertisement budget with the effect of affordable method,
percentage of sales
⮚ methods, competitive comparison method, objective and task method and
return on investment method.

Unit:4
Fashion Retailing
⮚ Fashion Retailing - Scope and functions, Types of Stores, Challenges for
fashion retail in India, E- retailing – growth and development, Major
players of fashion goods online. Pricing policies and strategies for
apparel products, Functions and factors Influencing pricing, pricing
strategies for new products, methods of setting prices

Fashion Retailing
⮚ Fashion Retailing is the link or a bridge between the fashionable product
manufacturer and the consumer. Fashion Retailers may buy fashion
merchandise from various manufactures (Vendors) directly import
merchandises from all over the country their own brands. Fashion
retailers must constantly be aware of customer’s desires. They must
notice changes in people’s living patterns and tastes. Retailers must show
to put together and accessories an outfit. Students are studying UG/PG
level in fashion design, apparel tech or garment manufacturing, fashion
merchandising have enough chance to choose the fashion retailing as
their career options to become the stores merchandisers, store in-charge,
 and store manager with expected emoluments/salary, by gaining wide
knowledge and experience to become the successful entrepreneur.

Functions of a Retailer

● Retailer provides the goods that customer needs, in a desired form, at a

required time and place.

● A retailer does not sell raw material. He sells finished goods or services
in the formthat customer wants.

● A retailer buys a wide range of products from different wholesalers and offers the
best products under one roof. Thus, the retailer performs the function of both
buyingand selling.

● A retailer keeps the products or services within easy reach of the customer by
making them available appropriate location. at

Scope:

1. Store Management.
2. Category management.
3. Customer Relationship Management.
4. Vendor Management.
5. Inventory Management. 6. Supply Chain Management.

Importance:
1. Helps in economic growth.
2. Provides various opportunities.
3. Provides employment opportunities.
4. Formation of FDI.
5. Improvement of Infrastructure and enhances the availability of
retail space.
6. Transformation of the retail sector in India.
7. Improvement in standard of living.

Different Types of Retail Stores:

 ⮚ The type of retail store plays a very important role, as it influences from
store layout to the type of customer you attract. Let’s look at the different
retail categories in more detail.

1. Department Store:
● They are often seen in malls, a department store is a retailer offering a
huge variety of consumer goods in different areas (or departments) of a
store. Department stores have a reputation as being a little pricier than big
box stores and selling higher-end brands. Examples of department stores
are, Macy’s, Kohl’s, and Neiman Marcus. The average size of department
store is around 250,000 square feet and often uses the loop layout to
connect customers to every department.

2. Off-Price Retailer:
● The off-price retail model is a replica of the discount retail model. Here,
mainly retailers typically highlight the “normal” retail price alongside
their lower price so customers can see what kind of deal they’re getting.
Basically, off-price retailers are independent of manufacturers and buy
large volumes of branded goods to sell at a reduced cost. Examples
include TJ Maxx, Burlington Coat Factory, and Nordstrom Rack.

3. Discount Store:
● They are famous for having lower-than-average prices; a discount store’s
secrete lies in merchandising. Retailer’s objective is to give the feel of
offering all their products for less than the average retail price. Think
Dollar Tree, Big Lots, or Five Below as examples of discount stores.
These stores average size is 10,000 square feet and leverage the loop
layout to encourage customers to explore the whole store. Smaller format
stores like TJ Maxx are approximately 30,000 square feet, while stores
like Nordstrom Rack can be upwards of 120,000 square feet.

4. Warehouse:
● Costco or Sam’s Club, are warehouse retailers of food and product that
offer large quantities of items at attractive discounts. These stores create a
simple experience and instead focus on moving products in higher
 volumes. The average warehouse ranges from 84,000 to 146,000 square
feet and generally follows a loop layout.

5. Convenience Store:
● They are small in size and offers “quick trip” experiences, convenience
stores are hallmarked with longer open hours and convenient locations.
They typically provide a basic foods and drinks, alcohol, and everyday
essentials. Many also have a fuel station as part of their operations.

6. Big Box/Superstore:
● Walmart, Target, Lowe’s, and Home Depot are dominating the big box
retail scene. These retailers (and others in this category) occupy a great
amount of physical space and supply a variety of goods in multiple
product categories. For instance, you can pick up plants, hand soap,
mailing supplies, and a new drill all in the same store. Big box stores
typically occupy more than 50,000 square feet, with typical ranges
between 90,000-200,000 square feet. They often have their own parking
facilities.

7. Specialty Store:
● As the name suggests that, specialty stores are deep assortment of brands,
styles, or models within a relatively narrow category. Examples include
craft stores, furniture stores, garden centers, sporting goods stores, and
bookstores. The average size of a specialty store ranges depending on the
type of store it is. Specialty stores can use a different types of layout
based on the scale of their operations. For smaller stores, a free flow
layout inspires curiosity, while a grid, loop, or diagonal layout is optimal
for medium and larger stores.

Challenges for fashion retail in India

⮚ Due to the revolutionary changes in the global economy and the growing
relevance of running a business around-the-clock, the retail industry has
been going through a paradigm shift worldwide.
 ⮚ India has organised retail for a little more than ten years. However, it is
mostly an urban phenomenon, and expansion is slowly occurring.

⮚ The retail business is heavily impacted by consumerism, the modern

world has become a global village, and technological advancements have
created opportunities and challenges.

⮚ With the advent of the internet, the retail sector has grown to benefit
economies and expand business beyond geographical boundaries at both
the B2B and B2C levels.

⮚ Although there is a lot of room for firm growth in the Indian retail sector,
it is nevertheless susceptible to a variety of roadblocks and bottlenecks
that might slow the rate of progress.

⮚ Many factors, such as inadequate infrastructure, strict or rigid regulations,

political uncertainty, etc., may restrict growth potential and provide
several challenges.

Retail – Issues and Challenges in the Retail Business

⮚ These are following issues and challenges in the retail business:

a. Legal and security,

b. Ethical issues,

c. Technological and

d. Non-store retailing etc.

● As this is just beginning of retail business, more issues may arise during
the full phased operations.

a. Legal and Security Issues:

⮚ Organised retailing has started over the past few years as an adventure in
almost all the large cities in India by the developing and growing
business organisations. The population of retail shops and stores in the
unorganized sectors as existing today is very big.
 ● The main areas, which may attach legal and security issues, can be
enumerated as under:

1. Land acquisition,

2. Construction of building and creating other facilities, requiring statutory

permission and clearances,

3. Elimination of middlemen and agents working in the retail business since

inception will create threats for their existence including loss of earnings for
their livelihood,

4. Employment of members of families of whose land acquisition is involved,

5. Payment of compensations for the land acquired from the landowners.

Of these, acquisition of land is a big issue affecting the legal as well as political
environments at the national level.

b. Ethical Issues:

⮚ The coming up of retail business in a big way is likely to create

difficulties and losses to a large population of the society engaged in the
retail business since time immemorial to earn their livelihood.

● A few of the likely issues may be indicated as under:

1. Closure of old stores and shops and making them poor within no time,

2. Snatching the jobs of lakhs of people engaged in these old shops and stores,

3. Elimination of middlemen will also be unethical, if the men and women

employed by them are not suitably re-employed in the new retail company,

4. Land acquisition is always complained of inadequate compensations to the

landowners.
 ● Therefore, these issues have to be well taken by the organisations and
persons concerned so as to avoid any adverse situation in the retail
management process.

c. Technological Issues:

⮚ Retail management is a new venture in the supply distribution chain from

original supplier to the consumers. There are many agencies and channels
associated in the total system. This is a new venture, hence lacks in the
latest facilities demanded by the consumers. There will be difficulties at
all the centers in the operations of retail business. Hence, this will require
a massive drive for the technological developments in all the service
centers from original suppliers/farmers, retail shops staff and executives
to the end consumers.

d. Non-Store Retailing:

⮚ The newly formed retail management companies like, Reliance, Guardian

Lifecare Private Limited etc. have started bringing the goods straight
from the manufacturers or farmers to the retail centers, from where the
same are supplied to the consumers directly, instead of keeping the same
in an interim store room for further work of cleaning, washing and
packing etc.

⮚ Thus, these are the various jobs to be done at the retail centers subsequent
to the bringing of the goods from the original suppliers. This will increase
the workload and may create a mess in the supply distribution chain.

E- retailing
⮚ E-retail or online retail is defined retailing activities done through
internet. We have many online or e-retailers in India who provide a
variety of merchandise to customers. In general retail business is referred
as Business to Consumer (B2C). Online retail players are classified into
two types category focused players and multi category focused.
Category focused players provide particular merchandise with deep
assortment.
 ● Ex: - Myntra, Jabbong (Apparels and Lifestyle products), Bigbasket,
Local banya (Grocery segment) and Fabfurnish, Pepper fry
(Furniture), Carat lane,Juvalia and you (jewellery), First cry, my baby
cart (baby products). Multi category players provide variety of
merchandise with limited assortment. Ex: - Flipkart, Amazon, Future
bazar and Snapdeal etc..

Pricing Strategies
⮚ Retailers generally employ two pricing strategies: (1) everyday low
pricing and (2) high/low pricing. The benefits and drawbacks of each of
these tactics are described in this article.

High/Low Pricing
⮚ Through sales campaigns, retailers who use a high/low pricing strategy
frequently—often weekly—discount the initial prices of goods. Some
shoppers, on the other hand, get used to regular reductions and just wait
for the items they want to go on sale before stocking up at the reduced
costs. This type of pricing strategy is utilised by numerous large
businesses (including, in North America, Reebok, Nike, and Target). The
fashion and shoe industries compete in part through high-low pricing
(Macy's, Nordstrom, etc.).

Everyday Low Pricing

⮚ Many retailers have embraced an everyday low-pricing (EDLP) strategy,
including supermarkets, home improvement stores, and discount stores.
With this tactic, the emphasis is placed on the consistency of retail
pricing at a level midway between the usual, non-sale price and the deep-
discount sale price of high/low retailers. Even while EDLP merchants
support their policy of constant pricing, they don't experience sales as
regularly as their high/low rivals.

⮚ Everyday low pricing is a little deceptive because low doesn't necessarily

mean "lowest." Although EDLP-using shops aim for low pricing, they
aren't always the best deals available. A sale price at a high/low store
could be the lowest price offered in a market at any particular time.
⮚ True EDLP retailers, such as Walmart, Costco, or Target, almost never
offer discounts because they have already beaten the industry prices.
Advantages of pricing strategies
1. Increases revenue:
⮚ Retailers can charge higher prices to non-price-sensitive customers who
will pay the "high" price and lower prices to price-sensitive customers
who will wait for the "low" discount price by using the high/low pricing
strategy.

⮚ Stirs up excitement during a sale, there is frequently an atmosphere of

"grab them while they last." Many people are attracted by sales, and
many customers generate enthusiasm. Some shops add unique in-store
events like product demonstrations, freebies, and celebrity appearances to
their low prices and advertising.

2. Sells Slow moving merchandise:

⮚ Sales enable retailers to get rid of inventory that isn't moving quickly by
reducing the price.

3. Ensures affordable prices for clients:

⮚ Customers generally have doubts regarding initial retail prices. They have
developed the habit of only purchasing during sales, which is the key
element of a high/low price plan. Customers are informed by the EDLP
strategy that they can expect to pay the same low prices each time they
shop at an EDLP business. Customers do not need to read advertisements
or wait for sales to start on the things they want.

4. Lowers operating and advertising costs:

⮚ The weekly-sale advertising utilised in the high/low strategy is less
necessary due to the consistent prices brought on by EDLP. Additionally,
EDLP sellers are exempt from paying the labour costs associated with
updating sale signs and price tags.

5. Decreases stock-outs and enhances inventory control:

⮚ The EDLP strategy lessens the significant changes in demand brought on
by frequent sales with substantial markdowns. Retailers may more
 confidently manage their stocks as a result. Fewer stock-outs translate
into happier consumers, which boosts revenue. In addition, by lowering
the average inventory needed for special promotions and backup stock, a
more predictable customer demand pattern enables the merchant to
increase inventory turnover.

Factors for setting retail pricing

⮚ Customer price sensitivity and cost: In general, as a product's price rises,
sales of that product decline as fewer and fewer consumers think the
product is a good value. How many units will be sold at various price
points depends on how sensitive consumers are to price changes. If target
market consumers are highly price-sensitive, price increases will have a
significant negative impact on sales. Sales won't be greatly affected by
price increases if clients aren't overly price-sensitive.

⮚ Price Elasticity is commonly used to measure price sensitivity. This is the

ratio of the percentage change in quantity sold to the percentage change
in price.

⮚ Competition: Customers have a wide range of options for products and

services, and they frequently look for the best deal. As a result, when
setting their own prices, retailers must take their rivals' into account.

⮚ Retailers have the option of pricing higher, lower, or online with their
rivals. The selected Pricing policy must be in line with the overall
strategy of the retailer and its comparable market standing. Consider
Walmart and Tiffany & Co. as examples. Walmart strives to undercut its
rivals' prices on the goods it sells. Tiffany, in contrast, provides its clients
with important advantages that go beyond the products themselves.
Customers are ensured by the company's brand name and customer care
that they will be happy with the products they buy. Tiffany is able to
charge more than rivals because of the distinctiveness of its offering.
 Unit:5
Sustainable Fashion
⮚ Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance; Environmental concerns
related to fashion; Linear fashion and circular fashion; 4R’s in
sustainability – Repair, recycle, reuse and reduce. Moving towards
sustainable fashion - Eco fashion, Slow fashion; Environmental impact of
fast fashion.

Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance

 ⮚ Sustainable fashion (also known as eco-fashion) is a term describing
products, processes, activities, and people (policymakers, brands,
consumers) that aim to achieve a carbon-neutral fashion industry built on
equality, social justice, animal welfare, and ecological integrity.
Sustainable fashion concerns more than fashion textiles or products,
rather addressing the entire process in which clothing is produced,
consumed and disposed of. The movement looks to combat the large
carbon footprint that the fast fashion industry has created by reducing the
environmental impact such as air pollution, water pollution and climate
change.
⮚ In 2020, it was found that voluntary self-directed reform of textile
manufacturing supply chains by large companies to reduce the
environmental impact was largely unsuccessful. Measures to reform
fashion production beyond greenwashing requires policies for the
creation and enforcement of standardized certificates, along with related
import controls, subsidies, and interventions such as eco-tariffs.

Brands can break their sustainable practices down into four areas.

⮚ Ethical Fashion: This covers production, working conditions and Fair-

Trade practices. Ethical fashion is a moralistic stance a company takes to
ensure no human beings or animals are hurt due to their manufacturing
practices.

⮚ Circular Fashion: This is an off shoot of the circular economy, and

advocates that all materials and products in society are used and
circulated among people for as long as possible, in an environmentally
safe, effective and fair manner. This encompasses things like recycling,
upcycling, and thrifting.

⮚ Slow Fashion: Slow fashion is the antithesis of Fast Fashion, taking a

long-term view and considering the whole product lifecycle. This
includes sharing or renting clothes as well as the quality of garments to
help them last longer and thus reduce the need to buy new ones.
 ⮚ Conscious Fashion: This is more of a message to get across to
consumers, explaining and encouraging them to buy eco-friendly
products and get behind the green fashion movement

Why sustainable fashion is important?

⮚ The fashion industry is very harmful to our planet. Second to oil, the
industry is one of the world’s largest polluters, responsible for 20% of
global industrial water pollution.

⮚ It comes as a surprise to many that most clothes are actually made out of
plastic, creating a microplastic disaster in the making. Thousands of
harmful chemicals are used in the textile mills around the world, which
are dangerous to both the environment and the people working with them,
and the time has come for a global change in the industry. That change
must come in the form of sustainable fashion.

⮚ We strongly believe that a greener, more environmentally friendly

business practice is not only important for the planet, but also for a
business’ future success.

⮚ As the fashion industry moves towards sustainability, there are a lot of

big changes ahead for businesses, changes we can help with.

⮚ A commitment to sustainability shouldn’t just be buzzwords and vague

slogans, which is why we are 100% committed to renewable, ethical, and
eco-friendly practices.

⮚ With decades of experience in the industry, we work together with our

clients, manufacturers, and distributors to ensure a fair and sustainable
practice for everyone.

⮚ The fashion industry has a disastrous impact on the environment. In fact,

it is the second largest polluter in the world, just after the oil industry.
And, the environmental damage is increasing as the industry grows.
A factory emitting smoke into the sky.
⮚ The textiles and fashion industries are amongst the leading industries that
affect the environment negatively. One of the industries that greatly
jeopardize environmental sustainability is the textiles and fashion
industry, which thus also bears great responsibilities. Globalization has
made it possible to produce clothing at increasingly lower prices, prices
so low, and collections shifting so fast, that many consumers consider
fashion to be disposable. However, fast, and thus disposable, fashion adds
to pollution and generates environmental hazards, in production, use, and
disposal. The globalization of the textile and fashion industry has also
contributed to the uneven distribution of such environmental hazards and
consequences. Developing countries who typically produce the textile
and clothing bear the burden for developed countries who largely
consume the products.

⮚ Putting the environmental perspective at the center, rather than the logic
of the industry, is thus an urgent concern if fashion is to become more
sustainable. The Earth Logic fashion research action plan argues for
"putting the health and survival of our planet earth and consequently the
future security and health of all species including humans, before
industry, business, and economic growth."[83] In making this argument
the Earth Logic plan explicitly connects the global fashion system with
the 2018 Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) Special
Report on Global Warming of 1.5 °C.

⮚ Furthermore, the Earth Logic fashion research action plan sets out a range
of possible areas for work in a sustainable fashion that scientific and
research evidence suggests are the most likely to deliver a change of the
scale and pace needed to respond to challenges like climate change. Earth
Logic's point of departure is that the planet, and its people, must be put
first, before profit. It replaces the logic of economic growth, which is
arguably the single largest factor limiting change towards sustainable
fashion, with the logic that puts earth at its center.

Environmental hazards
⮚ The clothing industry has one of the highest impacts on the planet. Cotton
requires approximately 15,000 liters of water to grow for a pair of jeans.
 High water usage, pollution from chemical treatments used in dyeing and
preparation and the disposal of large amounts of unsold clothing through
incineration or landfill deposits are hazardous to the environment. There
is a growing water scarcity, the current usage level of fashion materials
(79 billion cubic meters annually) is very concerning because textile
production mostly takes place in areas of fresh water stress. Only around
20% of clothing is recycled or reused, huge amounts of fashion product
end up as waste in landfills or are incinerated. It has been estimated that
in the UK alone around 350,000 tons of clothing ends up as landfill every
year. According to Earth Pledge, a non-profit organization committed to
promoting and supporting sustainable development, "At least 8,000
chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles and 25% of the
world's pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton. This causes
irreversible damage to people and the environment, and still two thirds of
a garment's carbon footprint will occur after it is purchased." The average
American throws away nearly 70 pounds of clothing per year. Around 5%
of the total waste worldwide stems from the textile industry, the clothing
section of the textile industry has elevated the amount of waste
contributing to global waste.

Linear fashion and circular fashion

Linear fashion
⮚ Fashion currently operates under a linear fashion model designed to
maximize the production and consumption of clothing. In a linear
economy, we excessively take resources (mostly synthetics made from
crude oil), make products, use them briefly, and when we no longer want
them, we throw them away and repeat the process. Most garments aren’t
currently made to be recycled, reused, repurposed, or biodegradable, so
most textiles end up in landfills or are incinerated.

⮚ Clothing has a significant impact on the environment. Biodiversity loss,

excessive water consumption and contamination, waste, greenhouse gas
emissions, hazardous chemicals, microplastic pollution, soil degradation,
and forest destruction are all byproducts of the fashion industry’s volume-
based model where clothing is regarded as disposable.
 ⮚ Motivated by the threat of limited resources and a growing concern
among consumers about the environmental impact of their purchases, the
fashion industry has started to embrace the idea of circular fashion.

circular fashion
⮚ Circular fashion is a holistic design approach rooted in Indigenous
ancestry that aims to “design out waste” by reducing the number of
natural resources used to make our clothing and diverting products from
landfills. In short, circular fashion (a closed-loop system) is making new
materials out of old materials.

⮚ If fashion could adopt a closed-loop system, materials would be endlessly

reused and recycled, thus eliminating waste and pollution by limiting the
extractive production of virgin raw materials, regenerating natural
systems, and decreasing textile waste.

⮚ Fashion’s linear model needs radical transformation, and circularity

offers just that. In a circular system, fashion could overcome the global
apparel industry's most pressing issues, including climate change,
pollution, and waste, while simultaneously creating opportunities for
responsible growth.
4R’s in sustainability

⮚ Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Repair are also known as “the most
important 4R’s”
⮚ of waste management. The concept of 4R’s is to decrease the amount of
things we use and
⮚ simultaneously also decrease the amount of things we throw away. Since
we have limited
⮚ space on earth to dispose all the waste, it is important to use the resources
efficiently and
⮚ create less waste. The 4Rs play an important role in solving the problems
which can arise
⮚ out of wrong waste management habits.

Reduce
⮚ Reduce/Reduction: To make something smaller or use less, resulting in a
smaller amount of waste. Waste reduction simply means reducing the
things that we use and only consume
 ⮚ what is necessary. This way the amount of waste that is created in the end
is reduced
⮚ and avoids going to the dump. This also reduces the pressure on natural
resources which
⮚ are utilized in treating the waste as well as natural resources which are
required to
⮚ manufacture new things. Reducing things that we use can also save a lot
of money since we
⮚ stop buying the product entirely. For instance, we can reduce the
consumption of bottled
⮚ water and instead carry a steel bottle to avoid sending the used bottles to
landfill/recycling
⮚ plant. Also, avoid buying new toys frequently, rather, build toys to play
with.

Reuse
⮚ Reuse is a method or a practice of using something again. This can be
done to use the
⮚ product for its original purpose or to fulfil a different function. Reusing a
product more than
⮚ one time benefits us as well as the environment. Reusing also helps in
saving time, money,
⮚ energy and resources. For example, there are glass jars at home in the
kitchen. These jars
⮚ are used multiple times after being empty. Old books can be used by
other people after
⮚ being used once. The book can be used for reading or the paper of the
book can be used
⮚ for other purposes if it is a notebook. Use cloth gift bags and stop ripping
the paper off
⮚ gifts . If you remove the wrapping paper carefully, you can use it again.

Recycle
⮚ Recycling is one of the key components in the waste management
system. It is the
 ⮚ process of converting waste materials into new materials and objects. It is
the practice of
⮚ reprocessing and reusing the items in the same or a different form which
otherwise could
⮚ have been discarded as waste. This process saves a lot of time, energy
and resources and
⮚ money. It also reduces the consumption of natural raw material used to
produce things.
⮚ It is thus important to buy recycled as well as recyclable products in order
to reduce the
⮚ pressure on the environment. For example, your old notebooks can be
recycled into
⮚ recycled paper and then used again to bind notebooks.

These are some things that can be recycled:

• Aluminium Cans • Building Materials
• Cardboard • Electronic Equipment • Glass (particularly bottles and jars) • Lead
•
Magazines • Metal • Newspapers • Paint • Paper • Plastic Bags • Plastic Bottles
• Steel
Cans • Tyres • Writing/Copy Paper • Garden Waste
Repair
⮚ These days, we find it easier to buy a new product than to repair and use
an existing
⮚ product. This is true of especially electronic goods like mobile phones
and domestic
⮚ appliances, which can last a long time if repaired when necessary.
Reducing, reusing and
⮚ recycling, decrease both the demands on natural resources, as well as the
rate at which
⮚ they are consumed. Fewer resources are used and supplies that are limited
are conserved.
⮚ In addition, less waste is generated, thereby reducing the amount of trash
that must be
⮚ landfilled or incinerated. As the amount of trash buried or burned
decreases, so too does
 ⮚ the potential for water and air pollution which can occur as a result of
burning or improper
⮚ disposal of waste. Our world has a limited supply of natural resources,
including land used
⮚ for landfills. All these techniques help us conserve such natural resources.

Moving towards sustainable fashion

⮚ Fashion is, per definition, a phenomenon related to time: a popular

expression in a certain time and context. This also affects the perception
of what is and should be made more sustainable – if fashion should be
"fast" or "slow"—or if it should be more exclusive or inclusive. Like
much other designs, the objects of fashion exist in the inter-zone between
desire and discard along a temporal axis, between the shimmering urge
towards life and the thermodynamic fate of death. As noted by cultural
theorist Brian Thill, "waste is every object, plus time."

⮚ When it comes down to the garments themselves, their durability depends

on their use and "metabolism"—certain garments are made to withstand
long use (ex. outdoor and hiking wear, winter jackets) whereas other
garments have a quicker turn-around (ex. a party top). This means some
garments have properties and a use-life that could be made more durable,
whereas others should be compostable or recyclable for quicker
disintegration.

⮚ Clothing that aren't sold in markets become solid waste clogging areas of
water and ultimately creating "the potential for additional environmental
health hazards in LMICs lacking robust municipal waste systems" Some
garments age well and acquire a patina and a romantic enchantment not
 unlike the wonder, fascination and grandeur of historical ruins, whereas
the derelict and discarded rags of last season is an eyesore and nuisance;
the first connotes a majesty of taste, whereas the second is the underclass
of waste.

Fast fashion

⮚ One of the most apparent reasons for the current unsustainable condition
of the fashion system is related to the temporal aspects of fashion; the
continuous stream of new goods onto the market, or what is popularly
called "fast fashion." The term fast fashion is used to refer to the fast
paced production of goods at an unethical level which often has a
negative impact on the environment. As a way to conform to the latest
fashion styles and keep consumers wanting new garments, current fast
fashion trends pre-suppose selling clothing in large quantities. Due to fast
fashion being affordable and able to keep up with the trends, there has
been an increase in apparel consumption. Consumption has risen to 62
million tonnes annually and is projected to reach 102 million tonnes by
2030.
⮚ This type of fashion is produced in vast quantities with low-quality
materials and are sold through chains such as H&M, Zara, Forever21,
Shein, etc. Fast-fashion retailer Shein is one of the most visited fast-
fashion websites in the world and ships to 220 countries, however, there
are questions about Shein's ethics and sustainability as it was responsible
for about 706 billion kilograms of greenhouse gases in 2015 from the
production of polyester textiles and uses up hundreds of gallons of water
per garment.
⮚ Additionally, leaving an aftermath of 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide
while missing 45% of the UN's goal to reduce carbon emissions by 2030.
In January 2021, Shein offered over 121,000 garments made from
polyester, making up 61% of their clothing total. The fashion industry has
a value of three trillion dollars. It is two percent of the world's gross
domestic product (GDP) - the total monetary or market value of all the
finished goods and services produced within a country's borders in a
specific time period. Out of the three trillion dollars, the majority is made
of fast fashion.
⮚ However, the "fast" aspect of consumption is primarily a problem for the
environment when done on a massive scale. As long as fast conspicuous
consumption was reserved to the rich, the global impact was not reaching
public attention or seen as a problem. That is, "fast" shopping sprees of
haute couture is not seen as a problem, rather it is celebrated (for example
in movies such as Pretty Woman), whereas when people with less means
shop fast fashion, it is seen as unethical and a problem. Today, the speed
of fast fashion is common across the whole industry as exclusive fashion
replicates the fast fashion chains with continuous releases of collections
and product drops: the quality of a garment does not necessarily translate
to a slower pace of consumption and waste. These releases are only
exasperated by the acceleration of fashion trends. As micro-trends are
only lasting an average of 3 years, the demand for clothes has also
accelerated.

⮚ In addition to its negative environmental impact, fast fashion is unethical.

Keeping up with fashion trends causes clothing to be produced in a
harmful manner. "Fast" clothing is made with synthetic fibers as opposed
to natural fibers. The synthetic fibers are made using the Earth's fossil
fuels. Almost sixty percent of clothes are made this way.
⮚ Since people spend so much money on these types of clothes and
purchase them so frequently, landfills are filling up quickly. Over sixty
percent of clothes made every year end up in landfills as consumer waste,
and almost twenty percent of the world's waste is constituted by fashion
products. Therefore, because fast fashion frequently introduces new
collections, consumer consumption increases.
⮚ Consequently, leading consumers to view low-cost apparel as disposable
since there are continuous releases of products. Production of these types
of clothing is also commonly exploitative, with most factories that
produce "fast" clothing employing workers on low wages in exploitative
environments. Workers from Shein reported making as little as 35 cents
per garment produced, as well as operating on 18-hour workdays with 1
day off per month.
⮚ Exploitative fast fashion production is prevalent in countries like China,
Bangladesh and Vietnam. Hard labor was always around in the fashion
industry dating back to when slave labor helped factories gather their
 materials. People making these clothes today suffer from harsh working
conditions, low wages, and risks to health and safety.

"Slow" fashion

⮚ Slow fashion can be seen as an alternative approach against fast fashion,

based on principles of the slow food movement. Characteristics of
sustainable fashion match the philosophies of "slow fashion" in that
emotional, ecological and ethical qualities are favored over uniform and
bland convenience with minimal friction. It requires a changed
infrastructure and a reduced through-put of goods. Categorically, slow
fashion is neither business-as-usual nor just involving design classics.
Nor is it production-as-usual but with long lead times. Slow fashion is a
vision of the fashion sector built from a different starting point. Slow
fashion is a fashion concept that reflects a perspective, which respects
human living conditions, biological, cultural diversity and scarce global
resources and creates unique, personalized products.

⮚ The term Slow Fashion came about quite organically. It was coined by
Kate Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, following the
phenomena of the slow food movement. As with the slow food
movement, Fletcher saw a need for a slower pace in the fashion industry.

⮚ Slow fashion challenges growth fashion's obsession with mass-production

and globalized style. It becomes a guardian of diversity and changes the
power relations between fashion creators and consumers, therefore
forging new relationships and trust that are only possible at smaller
scales. It fosters a heightened state of awareness of the design process and
its impacts on resource flows, workers, communities, and ecosystems.

⮚ A slow-fashion garment often consists of durable materials, traditional

production techniques, or design concepts that are seasonless or will last
for more than a season. Several points of the production chain are
affected by slowness. Textile workers in developing countries earn higher
wages because of slow fashion. For end-users, slow fashion means that
the goods are designed and manufactured with greater care and high-
quality products. From an environmental point of view, it means that
 there are less clothing and industrial waste that is removed from use
following transient trends. Throughout the process, durability is
considered; emotionally, materially, aesthetically, or by including
services that extend the garment's life. Additionally, creative ideas and
product innovations constantly redefine slow fashion, so using a static,
single definition would ignore the evolving nature of the concept.

⮚ Examples of stability of expression over long times are abundant in the

history of dress, not least in ethnic or folk dress, ritual or coronation
robes, clerical dress, or the uniforms of the Vatican Guard. The emphasis
on slowness in branding is thus an approach that is specific for a niche in
the market (such as Western-educated middle-class) that has since the
1990s become dominated by "fast" models. One of the earliest brands that
gained global fame with an explicit focus on slow fashion, the Anglo-
Japanese brand People Tree, embraces the concept of ethical trade,
manufactures all products in accordance with ethical commerce
standards, and supports local producers and craftsmen in developing
countries. The People Tree brand is known as the first fashion company
to receive the World Fair Trade Organization product label in 2013,
demonstrating their dedication to fair trade and the environment.

⮚ The concept of slow fashion is however not without its controversies, as

the imperative of slowness is a mandate emerging from a position of
privilege. To stop consuming "fast fashion" strikes against low-income
consumers whose only means to access trends is through cheap and
accessible goods. Those who are already having a high position in society
can afford to slow down and cement their status and position, while those
on their way up resent being told to stay at the lower rungs of the status
hierarchy. "The prestige of slowness allows a cultural signifier for those
already have social positions to preserve, and have time and money to
take it easy and enjoy the pleasures of reflection and meditate over their
moral superiority."
Environmental impact of fast fashion.
⮚ Fast fashion does not only have a huge environmental impact. In fact, the
industry also poses societal problems, especially in developing
economies. According to non-profit Remake, 80% of apparel is made by
young women between the ages of 18 and 24. A 2018 US Department of
Labor report found evidence of forced and child labour in the fashion
industry in Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia,
Philippines, Turkey, Vietnam and others. Rapid production means that
sales and profits supersede human welfare.

⮚ In 2013, an eight-floor factory building that housed several garment

factories collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh, killing 1 134 workers and
injuring more than 2,500. In her project, An Analysis of the Fast Fashion
Industry, Annie Radner Linden suggests that ‘the garment industry has
always been a low-capital and labour intensive industry’.

⮚ In her book, No Logo, Naomi Klein argues that developing nations are
viable for garment industries due to ‘cheap labour, vast tax breaks, and
lenient laws and regulations’. According to The True Cost, one in six
people work in some part of the global fashion industry, making it the
most labour-dependent industry. These developing nations also rarely
follow environmental regulations; China, for example, is a major
producer of fast fashion but is notorious for land degradation and air and
water pollution.