OMEGA SEAMASTER AQUA

TERRA RAILMASTER
REVIEW
JULY 21, 2017

WORDS BY ZACH WEISS

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When the topic of luxury watch brands comes to
mind, Omega is likely one of this first you think of.
Even if you aren’t into watches, chances are you are
aware of the brand. Whether it’s because of their
long and rich history (which we detailed here), a
relative who wears one, ubiquitous media, event
sponsorship or James Bond uttering the word
“Omeeega” on a train, they are a household name.
Then, should you fall into the trap of becoming a
watch enthusiast, it won’t be long until you find
yourself with one on your wrist. They are one of
those brands that are so core to the mythology of
the modern watch, that it’s impossible to not be
intrigued by their story and the watches they’ve
created over the years.

For most people, the first Omega they will think of is

the Speedmaster, and for good reason. The first
watch worn on the Moon, it’s as iconic as a watch
can be, still a mainstay for the brand, and has the
unique feature of being largely unchanged for the
last 50 years (the Speedmaster Professional, that
is). It’s one of the few watches that is as much a
cult classic as a popular success. But, it’s not the
only watch the brand is known for, and this year at
Basel 2017, Omega celebrated not only the
Speedmaster, but two other significant watches
that were released alongside it in 1957, the
Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster with near
visually identical, limited edition rereleases.

Watch Review: Omega S…

While not the Speedmaster in caché, the Seamaster

300 is certainly a well-known and regarded
timepiece. Highly collectible and visually intriguing,
it’s a big part of Omega’s history. The Railmaster,
however, is a bit of an underdog. Alongside the
Rolex Milgauss and IWC Ingenieur, it was one of a
few watches released in the mid-twentieth century
that dealt with the ever-growing concern of
magnetism, specifically for railroad engineers and
other professionals exposed to magnetic fields. By
surrounding the watch’s movement in soft iron, they
effectively created a Faraday cage, protecting
against up to 1,000 Gauss or 80,000 A/m.
(Interesting aside, Tissot is credited with making
the first anti-magnetic wristwatch in 1929.)

While conceptually cool, the Railmaster wasn’t a

big hit (neither was the early Milgauss) and the
watch was discontinued in 1963. While its short
lifespan denied the Railmaster the same prestige
as its other “master” siblings, it does equate to high
collectibility on the vintage market. Regardless,
there it stayed in the archives until 2003, when it
made a bit of an odd resurgence. Now under the
Seamaster Aqua Terra line, the 2003 models were
available in 36, 39, 42 and a monstrous 50mm (with
a manual Unitas movement). The smaller versions
were available with Omega’s new co-axial
chronometer calibers. I’ll get to co-axial movements
later, but these were among the first watches by the
brand to sport this revolutionary technology
created by George Daniels.

These Railmasters appear to have remained in the

line for a longer time, eventually disappearing in
2012. While visually appealing and sticking to the
design motif of the original, this era of the
Railmaster had a significant conceptual flaw
(though I doubt it played into their eventual
retirement)–they had no consideration for
magnetism. There was no soft iron cage shielding
the co-axial escapement. Quite the opposite, in
fact–they featured display case backs. It seems
they were Railmasters because of their
chronometer status–playing off of the idea of the
railway watch–and dial design only.

Once again, the Railmaster was back in the file

cabinet. During its absence, Omega turned their
engineer’s eyes back to the problem that first
inspired the watch–magnetism. Now utilizing
silicon in the movement itself–which is non-ferrous
by nature–along with other non-ferrous alloys,
Omega announced in 2013 their caliber 8508, first
featured in the Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss. As the
name indicates, Omega outdid the previous
standard of 1,000 Gauss by 15 times, creating a
watch that needs no shielding to perform (or
outperform, as the case may be, those with soft-
iron cages) as the movement itself can’t get
magnetized.

Omega introduced this technology into more of

their calibers, and eventually began to submit them
through a new testing process, earning their
>15,000 Gauss, chronometer-rated movements the
title of “Master Chronometers.” Now, in 2017, 60
years after launching the Railmaster and equipped
with an arsenal of industry-leading tech, Omega
has brought the Railmaster back. And while you
might be thinking about the LE anniversary model
that got a lot of attention last spring, it’s actually
this new non-limited version that really matters.

Sporting the Master Chronometer caliber 8806 with

a co-axial escapement, the Seamaster Aqua Terra
Railmaster is a true spiritual successor to the
original, and a visual evolution on the theme. The
soft iron cage is gone, but the anti-magnetic
concept that first defined it is still at its core. But
perhaps what makes this watch so intriguing to
worn&wound is that for the first time a Master
Chronometer watch will be available just shy of
$5,000 at $4,900 MSRP on a strap ($5,000 as
shown on bracelet). While this certainly is far from
inexpensive, for a tech-laden watch from a major
luxury brand, it’s very competitive and represents a
unique “entry-level” luxury offering that any watch
enthusiast should be aware of.

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$5000

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

Railmaster Review

CASE DIMENSIONS
Brushed Steel 40 x 46.6mm

MOVEMENT THICKNESS
Omega Cal 8806 12.5mm

DIAL LUG WIDTH

Brushed Black 20mm

LUME CROWN
Yes push Pull

LENS WARRANT Y
Sapphire yes

STRAP PRICE
Bracelet $5000

WATER RESISTANCE
150

Case

Like the 2003 model, the new Railmaster is part of

the Aqua Terra line, so it utilizes a variant on that
twisting lug case. This is a departure from the
original, but it’s an appealing modern update.
Measuring 40 x 46.6 x 12.48mm (to the top of the
domed sapphire) with 20mm lugs, the Railmaster is
a pleasantly stout watch with a very wearable size.
There’s a lot of metal around the dial from a thick
bezel, chapter ring and chunky mid-case that
create appealing proportions and the illusion that
it’s a bit smaller than it is. It’s also simply very solid
looking giving it a reassuring feel. Strangely, other
Aqua Terras are 41mm, making the Railmaster a bit
unique in the line.

From above, those gorgeous twisting lugs really

steal the show. While Omega isn’t the only brand to
have used this design concept, it’s definitely
associated with them as the Speedmaster has
featured a similar design since ‘64, and I think they
work fantastically on this watch. I’m actually glad
they didn’t go for the original straight lug case
you’ll find on the 60th Anniversary LE, as this feels
more modern and aggressive.

From the sides, you’ll find that the case is actually

quite simple. The sides are flat and lack break lines
or ornamentation, but this is made up for in the
finishing. The profile is simple as well, with the mid-
case running straight across the wrist, turning
down ever so slightly for ergonomics. The wide
bevel that runs down the case edge, which is part
of what creates the twisted lug, adds just the right
amount of geometric detail.

Interestingly, the whole case is brushed including

this bevel, which on other Aqua Terra models is
polished. While the contrast of finishes would make
these curves pop more, the brushing is fantastic so
you don’t really miss the contrast. The case sides
have a beautiful texture that runs horizontal, while
the brushing on the bevel is vertical. The way light
plays differently off of the two surfaces is very
attractive. This is definitely the type of finishing one
finds on a higher-end watch. There’s just
something about the texture that is more complex
and refined.

$ %

On the right side, you’ll find a small push-pull crown

with a funny, flared shape. It’s fluted on the sides for
grip, and rounds out over its outer face, where you’ll
find an Omega logo. To be honest, this is my least
favorite detail of the case. I can’t get past it looking
a bit like a muffin. Moreover, I just don’t see how the
shape relates to the rest of the case or watch. The
flared design does make it easier to grasp, but in my
opinion that’s not such an issue with cylindrical
crowns that it needs to be addressed.

Flipping the watch over, you are presented with a

treat for the eyes. The case back is solid steel, and
features and incredibly detailed stamping and very
appealing shapes. Instead of your typical tool grips,
this case back features a series of scallops that
must align with a proprietary device. It’s functional,
obviously, but also visually appealing. In the center,
you’ll then find an elaborate relief of the Seamaster
Hippocampus (this is part of the Seamaster family,
after all) with an arcing “Railmaster” above and the
Omega logo below–all floating on a textured
background. It’s simply gorgeous. It’s like having a
secret piece of art to enjoy when the watch is off
your wrist.

Additionally, you’ll find a little bit of text including

“Anti-magnetic,” “15,000 Gauss,” “150m/500ft,”
and most curiously, “Naiad Lock.” Omega has used
the term “Naiad” on crowns before; in fact, the
original Railmaster featured it, denoting that the
crown sealed tighter as the watch was under more
pressure. Here, the “Naiad Lock” is a new system
that allows for the case back to screw on and be
centered every time, thus putting the artwork in the
correct orientation.

It should be clear that I’m a big fan of what Omega

did with this case back, but I can’t help but wonder
if this watch, at the very least from a conceptual
standpoint, should have an open case back. As I
wrote above, the original had a soft iron cage to
prevent against magnetism, and the 2003 model
had a display case back and forewent any anti-
magnetic shielding. The new Railmaster has a
Master Chronometer movement in it, which far
surpasses the original watch at its goal, but doesn’t
need any shielding, thus can be on full view. Here,
showing the caliber 8600 would have felt like the
watch (and Omega) celebrated the achievement
more. Also, the Omega caliber 8XXX series happen
to be very cool looking.

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Dial

The dial of the Railmaster takes the original design

concept of the watch into new and intriguing
territory. It still has the most distinctive elements of
the original, but mixes in some new details making
it ride between a recreation and a modernization.
The dial surface is the first thing that will catch your
eye. Instead of matte black, Omega has gone with a
vertically brushed surface with a faded black tone.
The result is unlike other dials I have come across,
and it’s very enjoyable. The brushing is aggressive
and highly random, creating tons of variation across
the surface in both tone and depth. When light hits
the dial at different angles, it changes wildly.

The faded black coloring is unique as well. It’s a

plated color with a bit of metallic sheen, but while
it’s called black I would argue it’s really a lighter
graphite gray, with an almost inky, purple undertone.
It’s subtle, but at some angles there is definitely a
color to it, which adds to the dynamic light play
from the graining.

Pulling from the original, the primary index consists

of bold triangle markers for the hours–short and
wide at three, six, nine and 12; and long and thin for
the rest. The triangles are all lumed and feature
“vintage” khaki lume (Omega actually uses the
word “vintage” to describe it). The execution of
these markers is quite exceptional. First, they
appear impossibly flat, and that’s because they are
actually recessed, coming just up to the edge of the
main dial surface. The color then isn’t simply solid
khaki; there is discoloration within where slightly
darker patches emerge. In the dark, the markers
glow solid green, and while the vintage-toned paint
may not be as bright as C3 it still gives off a
respectable amount of light.

While this is probably the most elegantly executed

vintage lume I’ve seen, I can’t help but question its
use a bit. It looks good and it goes very well with
the brushed black dial, but this watch isn’t a re-
creation like the 60th Anniversary edition is, nor
does it look vintage. It’s a modern interpretation of
the Railmaster. Crisp white or slightly green lume
would likely still look great on this watch. Perhaps
it’s not a matter of either/or, and it’s more a matter
of having the option as this version is definitely
stylish, but a purely modern version would be
tempting as well.

$ %

You’ll then find three, six, nine and 12 numerals

printed in white, and a cross-hair tying the
numerals and branding elements together. Let’s
start with the numerals. This is a detail from the
original, but in a typeface that is far more graphic
and modern. At first, I sort of longed for the bolder
vintage text or a modernized version of it, like the
sort we saw on the Seamaster 300s released a
couple of years ago. That said, this eventually grew
on me. It’s clean, legible, less baroque and it gives
the watch a more understated feel.

Below 12 you’ll find the customary Omega logo and

wordmark in white, while above six you’ll find
“Railmaster” in a hand-written script (speaking to
the original) in a khaki tone, with “co-axial master
chronometer” beneath in small caps in white. While
there is a decent amount of text above six, I think
it’s well proportioned, mirroring the logo at 12 in
weight. Extending from three to nine and the logo
to the text block are thin white lines creating a
cross-hair. I’m a sucker for cross-hairs, and I think
this one works very well. It subtly uses up negative
space, and while not a detail on the original, it does
recall mid-20th century designs.

The last graphic element of the dial is a railroad

index around the outer edge. Another departure
from the original design, it’s a slightly on-the-nose
reference to trains, but it’s nevertheless visually
appealing. I quite like the contrast between the
weight of the thin line on this index and the bold
triangles that cut right through it. All together, the
dial elements play off of each very nicely, creating a
balanced whole that is as legible as it is stylish.

For hands, Omega went with brushed batons with

khaki lume filling for the hour and minute, and a
lollipop seconds hand. This is a slight departure
from the original, which is known for having a broad
arrow hour and dauphine minutes (like what you’ll
see on the 60th Anniversary). That said, there were
some baton-handed models made back in the
’50s–they’re just rare. Anyway, at first I thought,
well, that’s a bit of a shame as the broad arrow hand
is so distinctive, and while Omega wasn’t the only
brand to use them, their use definitely tied in with
the mythology. Then I thought, this is a new watch
and not a replica, so what would work best here is
unrelated to all of that. And the baton hands, while
more common, have a purposeful, sporty look. Like
the change in typeface for the hour numerals, they
are a bit more understated, which is something I
can always get behind. The lume on the hands also
glows more blue than the dial.

Before moving on, the Railmaster is also available

with a steel grey dial. Though not on-hand for the
review, I had the chance to see it in person and try
it on for a few minutes, so I figured I’d give my
impressions. It’s a very distinctive look and a much
further departure from the original. It also features
black accents where the black dial features white.
At first blush, it was the more appealing of the two,